Ben Donich

Tuesday 19th April 2022

After a cold night, I awoke to the welcome sight of sunshine and eagerly headed back along the path that runs below the Cobbler, but this time I branched right away from the route of the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way onto a forestry track that climbs past dreary conifers before descending into Glen Croe. I had hoped to find the old military road that heads up the valley, but the start must be too far away and I was beside a busy main road with cars rushing closely past me that didn’t make me feel safe. Eventually I retraced my steps to the point where I had come onto the A83 road and tried to force my way through heather and young conifers on the far side of the valley, which this was not easy, but eventually I managed to get through and once I was amongst more mature conifers an easier passage brought me to the forestry road that I had passed down the day before. Rather than turn right, I decided to turn left and walk a mile down to the Ardgartan car park where I was able to use their facilities and reflected that with hindsight I should have copied my route of the day before to the car park. The sunshine that I had woken to proven to be short-lived as clouds now covered most of the sky, and would stay for much of the day. Heading back up Glen Croe I was on tedious forestry roads that have no appeal as they are too wide and flat while the trees prevented me from having a view.

Slowly I climbed the valley with no respite in the tedium, until at one point there was a break in the screen of trees that revealed views across and down the valley. I felt I had to take advantage of this opportunity to take in the view so I stopped to have my lunch. Setting off once again I continued to climb up to the infamous pass known as Rest and be Thankful, but more properly Bealach an Easain Duibh. My track didn’t go to the pass but veers west into the start of Gleann Mòr and soon after a path appeared on the left that climbs through conifers and is signposted for Ben Donich. I had planned on climbing this mountain in 2017 until bad weather forced me to stay in Inveraray, so I was glad to have this opportunity. I was also inspired by Abbie Barnes of Spend More Time In The Wild who live-streamed from the summit last year, so I was also following in her footsteps. The path zigzags past the conifers to a fence where the trees are left behind and a boggy path took me up the broad, northern ridge of the mountain. At first this was an exhausting climb, but slowly I dragged myself up undeterred by the grey clouds above the mountain that sprinkled light rain on me.

When the terrain eased I was better able to appreciate my surroundings while the sun also came out to highlight the mountains around me. Beyond this brief pause in the climb was a craggy section which is always a delight as it’s nice to have rock underfoot and at one point a bit of down-scrambling was required, which though very easy, was very satisfying. This now felt like a proper mountain and I felt energised to keep going until I reached the broad summit plateau, which I traversed to the trig point. At the moment when I reached the top the rain that had never really stopped throughout the ascent finally cleared finally affording me with sunshine and tremendous views all around. To the south I could see Loch Goil through the departing rain leading all the way to the Firth of Clyde while surrounding the mountain were the conifers of the Argyle Forest Park. Eventually I left the summit of Ben Donich and made my way down the eastern slopes negotiating complex terrain to avoid precipitous cliffs while ahead of me were fabulous views that stretched all the way to Ben Lomond. I love making my own way down pathless slopes, off a mountain, as there is such delightful freedom about it, though the route-finding became very tricky on the lower slopes until eventually I reached the white painted post that marks the path over Bealach Dubh-lic, which was the route I’d taken down the day before from the Brack.

Copying my previous descent I took a sketchy path down into the conifer plantation and after avoiding some fallen trees reached the forestry road that I had climbed up some hours earlier. Now, I returned to the Ardgartan car park and following the route of the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way I headed back to Arrochar. This was a varied walk with a good four hours spent walking along tedious forestry tracks to reach the foot of Ben Donich, but the walk over the mountain was fantastic and made for a satisfying walk over a proper mountain with a glorious descent. It is a pity I was leaving the Arrochar Alps the next day as there are more Corbetts in the area, though they are further away from Arrochar and would be difficult to do from there. This is a shame as these are fabulous mountains with Beinn an Lochain particularly looking appealing as it looks like it has a good ridge ascent route.

The Brack

Monday 18th April 2022

Once the overnight rain had cleared, sunshine promised better weather for this walk as I set off from Arrochar on the route of the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way passing through the woodland below the Cobbler and Ben Narnain. You would have thought it would be tempting for me to abandon my plans for this walk and head up these popular hills, but curiously I had no such inclination. I went up both of these mountains in 2007 in good weather and I have no desire to go up them again. After climbing the zigzagging path up to the track that I had been on the day before, I ignored the turning up to the Cobbler and kept to the trail as it narrowed and descended into Glen Croe. By this point the early sunshine had gone leaving overcast skies, though it wouldn’t be too long before the sun would break through again. When I started my descent I realised that I had forgotten to bring on this walk either my poles or my knee support, which could have been a problem when descending the mountain, but fortunately was not. The path down to Ardgartan at the foot of Glen Croe was very well made and eased the pressure on my knees until I finally reached the busy A83 road at the bottom. Passing the car park and after crossing the river I turned right to head up a wide forestry track and soon came to a barrier with a sign that proclaimed the road was closed due to fallen trees following the winter storms and no unauthorised persons were allowed beyond this point.

I was unsure whether I should go around the barrier, but eventually I decided to obey the sign and turned around following a narrow tarmac road past Ardgartan Hotel beside the shore of Loch Long. This change in my plans was rather frustrating and left me wondering where I was going as I had planned on climbing the Brack and was now circling the mountain, but I didn’t know if I would find another way up. I was thinking I may not even get up a mountain on this walk and the best that I would be able to say was that I had done a walk through Argyll Forest Park. Although I thought I was following the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way (as indicated on O.S. maps), I couldn’t see any signs of it because the trail actually takes an off-road route that I had missed and doesn’t join the narrow road until much later. After I had walked a long way I emerged from the trees into an area that had recently been cleared and afforded me with tremendous views across Loch Long just as the sun started to break back through the clouds. With the weather now looking good the narrow road slowly climbed to a small car park and after crossing Coilessan Burn became a rough track, while I soon turned right heading up Coilessan Glen past some signs that warned me of forestry operations that may even close the route of the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way.

When I reached another sign that barred unauthorised persons beyond this point I ignored it and proceeded cautiously to a car that I could see ahead. Just around the corner from it was a forestry vehicle with someone head down repairing it, despite this being a Bank Holiday Monday. Fortunately I didn’t need to walk past the forestry vehicle as the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way goes straight ahead at this point over a bridge, so I crept past over the burn and continued my climb up Coilessan Glen. As the weather continued to improve, I was entranced by the scenery around me of encircling craggy hills while the climb steepened as the path narrowed. Eventually I dragged myself out of the conifer plantation and onto the boggy hillside beyond soon branching off the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way to head north towards the developing ridge of the Brack. With far-reaching views and a strong, cold wind, I negotiated an undulating ridge while attempting to minimise needless ascents as much as possible until the gradient steepened and I had to tackle the long agonising climb up to the summit of the Brack. My effort was rewarded with stunning views of mountains in every direction including across the valley to the Cobbler, up Glen Croe towards Beinn an Lochain, over Loch Lomond towards Ben Lomond and down Loch Long towards the Firth of Clyde.

I was mesmerised by the view, but unfortunately I didn’t stay very long at the summit. As soon as the sun went in I walked away even though the sun soon came back out. It would have been ideal if I’d had my lunch at the summit then I would have been able to linger over the view, but instead I had my lunch an hour earlier not long after emerging from the forest park. From that vantage point I was able to appreciate the views down Coilessan Glen down to Loch Long, but they weren’t as grand as those I saw from the top of the Brack. Leaving the summit behind, I made my way down the vast, grassy north-western slopes, which had been my planned route of ascent, before the barrier turned me back, and I couldn’t help thinking this was better done in descent. I usually prefer to descend slowly because of my knees, but even without poles or a knee support I was able to make this steep descent painlessly gradually minimising the gradient as much as possible and my knees astonishingly never complained. Instead, if I’d tried to climb those never-ending grassy slopes, I would have been complaining all the way up. When I reached the col, I found the faint path that passes through and is marked by white posts which I followed down the hillside into the conifer plantations of Glen Croe.

There were a couple of fallen trees that I had to avoid, but nothing too bad before I reached a wide forestry track that gradually took me back to Ardgartan and the barrier that had barred my progress earlier in the day, so with hindsight it had probably not been necessary for me to have been deterred by the forestry barrier. The walkhighlands.co.uk website describes a route up the Brack from Ardgartan that is described as very steep, almost a scramble at first, and I did find the turning off the forestry track onto this path, which looks formidable. It wouldn’t have been suitable for descent, so my route was the better option, but I wonder if I would have been tempted if I had come this way. From the Ardgartan car park I retraced my steps back along the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way back to Arrochar happy that I had climbed a mountain in great weather and found stunning views that further restored my love of mountains that had begun the day before.

Ben Vorlich

Sunday 17th April 2022

After a difficult journey to Scotland that was ruined as soon as I got to my first railway station thanks to a cancelled train, I eventually reached the Highland village of Arrochar at the head of Loch Long and in the heart of the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. When I got up the following morning it was wet and drizzly with low cloud, which is not the sort of weather that prompts you to head up a mountain, but as the rain eased I set off from Arrochar along the route of the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way. Soon I joined the route of the Three Lochs Way up Glen Loin, which is not a great valley to be walking up as it is farmed and has the tiny village of Succoth within, but the path kept to the woodland edge and was decorated with primroses. Eventually the farmland was left behind to pass into wilder surroundings that were much more pleasant to walk through, despite the rain that was soon back and several lines of electricity pylons that also make their way through the valley. I was previously in this area in 2007 when I spent the Easter weekend walking up some of the Arrochar Alps and on the Sunday, in weather that was not much better than now, I headed up Glen Loin. Back then I was obsessed with going up mountains, but now I have discovered the delights of long distance trails partly because the weather doesn’t matter, so the grey overcast skies and drizzle that I was enduring while walking up Glen Loin failed to affect my enthusiasm for the walk.

If I had been doing either of the two long distance trails that pass through Glen Loin then I would have pressed on oblivious to the weather, but I wanted to go up a mountain on this walk and for that the weather is critical as strong wind and rain would make it a horrible experience. To get the best out of going up a mountain you need clear weather, good views and light winds and it has been my repeated failure to get those things in Britain that has put me off going up mountains. The path through Glen Loin climbs over a low rock-filled pass before deteriorating as it moves beside a conifer plantation and down into the valley of Inveruglas. At this point in 2007 I turned left, towards Ben Vane, on an excellent path that I have good memories of, but to my right was Ben Vorlich, which is a mountain I have never done before and was actually why I had come to the Arrochar Alps. When I saw Abbie Barnes of Spend More Time In The Wild go up Ben Vorlich on a video she posted on YouTube last year, I was motivated to plan a holiday in the Arrochar Alps and walk up this mountain, which is why it was the first place I went to on my holiday. Therefore, I ignored Ben Vane and headed along the Loch Sloy service road approaching the imposing dam for the reservoir where a clear path, though not marked on maps, leaves the road to climb the hillside.

Initially on good rock steps that reminded me of the Lake District, this is a very steep path that had me stopping frequently to catch my breath possibly because it is a long time since I last climbed a mountain and I have not adequately maintained my fitness over the winter. As I climbed the steep hillside it seemed the sky was brightening up, which made me hopeful that the clouds would lift and I would get a view from the top of the mountain. Walkers are always hopeful! The path was mixed with some good sections and others that were boggy or with loose stones while on others I scrambled up glorious rocks, until finally I plunged into the clouds as the gradient eased and I passed long a fabulously craggy ridge that made me realise what is so great about climbing a mountain even when the mist is down as the craggy ground made up for the lack of a view. Beyond the crags the ridge broadened and briefly the clouds parted to reveal a view that was extra special for its fleeting nature, though it promised better things to come. First I had to turn my back on that and head towards the summit into the thick clouds to the trig point, which I knew was not the summit so I kept going along the ridge and after a dip I reached the summit of the Munro.

It was very cold and windy at the top so I soon turned around and headed back down. It amazes me how otherworldly it always feels at the top of a mountain with completely different temperature and weather conditions to how it had been in the valley, and this is part of the appeal of being at the top of a mountain, even when you don’t have a view. As I descended the way I had come up, the clouds soon lifted to reveal stunning views south towards Loch Lomond, while the descent took me back past isolated patches of snow, through the craggy terrain and down the steep path that is at times boggy, eroded or on manufactured steps all the way back down to the service road. Half way down it felt so warm compared to the top of the mountain that I took my cagoule off. Since it was not even three o’clock by the time I reached the service road I decided it was too early to head straight back to Arrochar, so I branched onto a track that passes below Ben Vane into Coire Grogain on a signposted Glen Loin Circuit. Ahead of me was Beinn Ime, which I'd climbed in 2007 with Ben Vane, and after crossing the burn I walked along forestry tracks below Beinn Narnain, which I’d climbed the day before in 2007. It was quite cold inside these conifer plantations, which prompted me to put my cagoule back on, but this was a very relaxing way to end the walk. My journey up to Scotland and the wet start to the day may not have helped, but, with the cloud slowly lifting, this walk was a wonderful way to return to Scotland and showed me that mountains do have their appeal even though they are prone to the fickle Scottish weather.

The Cobbler

The Cobbler in the Arrochar Alps is one of the most popular mountains in Scotland despite being less than three thousand feet high, which shows that Munro status is not as important as some would say. I went up the Corbett at Easter 2007 in lovely weather and combined the walk with an ascent of Beinn Narnain, because there are times when it is important if a mountain is a Munro.

Ben Vane & Beinn Ime

Sunday 8th April 2007

The fabulous weather of the previous walk had now deteriorated such that it was overcast and extremely windy all day. The weather was even worse the day after this walk as it rained all day, but that was all right as I didn't do much that day except travel to Arran. Back to this walk, and it didn't start off too bad as I caught the bus to Arrochar and started to walk along Glen Loin; this was a quiet easy start to the day as I walked all the way to Coriegrogain. After walking along the Loch Sloy service road for a very short distance I turned up a valley track, but soon also left this as well to start the climb up the east ridge of Ben Vane.

What can I say about this climb? It was fantastic, thrilling, unrelenting and exhausting. A brilliant path wove it's way up the steep ridge into an increasingly strong wind all the way up to the top. Having lunch just before I arrived at the summit I was able to, I thought, minimize my exposure to the strong westerly winds, but unfortunately my route took me over to the western side of the mountain and directly into the wind. Battling against the wind all the way I dropped down the grassy slopes making my own route to the col between the Uaine and Coiregrogain valleys. After the popular eastern ridge of Ben Vane I was now totally on my own for the rest of the walk as I climbed up the steep grassy corrie to Glas Bhealach. With the weather worsening I was now well into the clouds as I slowly dragged myself up the impossibly steep northern face of Beinn Ime and having reached the summit I then had to get back down again. Sometimes I wonder why I do all this; I waste a lot of effort trying to get to the top of a mountain and then I have to waste a lot effort trying to get back down again. And in this sort of weather conditions I didn't gain anything by being at the top: there were no views and it was so unpleasant I don't want to linger there. Dropping steeply down the south-western slope of Beinn Ime to the Luibhean Bealach I then walked down the short valley to Butterbridge, where a bus was caught back to Inveraray.

The Cobbler & Beinn Narnain

Saturday 7th April 2007

The day before this walk I travelled up to Scotland for my first walking holiday of the year, and frankly I wished I was back in the Lake District. I had spent the last three Easters in the Lake District and it was weird not being there again for this Easter, but I'd been to the Lake District so many times in the last year it was getting too familiar. I'd be back soon, but until then I was in Scotland, in Inveraray, having caught the train first thing the day before to Glasgow and then the bus in the afternoon to Inveraray. The journey on the train didn't go smoothly as I spent most of it feeling rather sick after eating some roasted nuts. I won't eat them again. I arrived in Inveraray mid-afternoon and after a look around the picturesque town I decided the best place to go was to have a look around Inveraray Castle, seat of the Duke of Argyle. To be honest, it was nothing special, typical of inherited status and wealth. I felt more drawn to the spectacular surroundings rather than the contents of the house. I was planning to spend some more time in Inveraray on Monday but first, over the weekend, I wanted to walk up the Arrochar Alps. So for this walk I got back out onto the hills and it was so good to be back out there, especially in such brilliant weather. Broken cloud and bright sunshine between the clouds was marred by a stiff, cold, northerly wind that sometimes produced a harsh wind chill. After a lie-in I caught the bus at ten to Succoth and when I got there I immediately headed up the hillside staying on the main path and zigzagging up the steep slope through a felled or recently planted forest. Arriving at a dam on the Allt a' Bhalachain I despaired at the large numbers of people on the tourist path and decided to abandon my planned route and instead I climbed up steep grassy slopes to the foot of Cruach nam Miseag. I was eager to climb the SE ridge of Beinn Narnain, but doing so didn't accord with my planned walk. Ignoring such complications I climbed up to the start of the ridge and began the exhilarating climb over Cruach nam Miseag and up to the top of the Munro.

With some opportunities for a bit of scrambling, the climb was great fun but over all too soon and I was at the summit of my first Munro of the year: Beinn Narnain. After lunch at the summit I headed down grassy slopes to the col with the Cobbler. As I descended lower I despaired over the large amount of height I was losing, with the steep slopes of the Cobbler ahead of me looking more and more intimidating. At the bottom I joined the constructed path/steps up the steep slopes, wearily climbing up and resolutely keeping to the path all the way up to the top. When I finally reached the summit I squeezed through the crowds and scrambled up to the very top of the hill. This is very tricky and a little nerve-wracking, but being up there with loads of other people rather dampened the experience. Turning my back on the southern top (which would have required hard scrambling) I headed across to visit the northern top before heading down the ridge and keeping to the top I forsook the path until the ridge ended and then skipped all the way back down the hill. It's always tremendous fun descending a ridge like that and I always really enjoy myself when I do it, especially when the weather is as good as it was for this walk, but now my fun was over. Climbing up to Bealach a'Mhaim I contoured around the northern slopes of Beinn Narnain, crossing a boulder field towards it's north-west ridge. The logical way to have done this walk was to have gone up the Cobbler first and then gone up Beinn Narnain, but by spurning the tourist path to the Cobbler I had forced myself into an annoying out and back on the Corbett. After crossing the steep northern slopes of Beinn Narnain I was now back on track, crossing the undulating landscape above Creag Tharsuinn to the top of A'Chrois.

From the summit of A'Chrois I put the strong wind behind me and headed off the hills down the grassy southerly ridge in company with two guys I had met on the summit. Crossing the Allt Sugach by a dam we followed a path across the hillside to the top of a steep track straight down the hill, the remnants of a cable track. This brought us back to the road where we parted company and I wandered into Arrochar wasting almost an hour as I waited for the bus. This was a memorable walk in fabulous weather and over tremendous mountains. The Cobbler is considered to be the best mountain in Scotland below Munro status and on this walk I saw that this was justified, unfortunately I also saw how popular this Corbett is as well.