This is a Petticoat. It is dated 1700–1750 and we acquired it in 1957. Its medium is cotton and its technique is mordant and resist painted and dyed plain weave (chintz).
Showing posts with label material. Show all posts
Showing posts with label material. Show all posts
Monday, 30 November 2015
Saturday, 21 June 2014
Tuesday, 12 February 2013
Early looms and weaving in Colonial North America.
From the time of his arrival in "ye Back Country" of Pennsylvania, Irishman James McCullough earned a living as a weaver, throwing the shuttle to provide his neighbors on Conococheague Creek with all types of linen, woolen, and cotton cloth. His journal shows that, between 1750 to 1758, he turned out "chaker," "hickrey," and white "shirtin;" "stript" linsey for breeches; "bagin" and "tow clouth" to make sacks; and "girthin" for horse blankets. When he concealed his loom shafts, "wolling reed," "puley Stocks," and "other youtencels" in hollow trees during Indian alarms, he was protecting not only the means of his livelihood but a community resource.
http://people.virginia.edu/~mgf2j/clothes.html
In 1640, the General Assembly of Connecticut also tried to persuade its colonists to sow hemp "that we might in time have supply of linen cloth among ourselves.
http://druglibrary.org/schaffer/hemp/history/first12000/4.htm
Weaving in America
When the first European settlers came to America, they
brought with them a type of loom that had been used in
Europe since before the 1300s. It was a horizontal frame
loom, one that hand-weavers still use today.
In the South, plantation owners built weaving shops
where slaves and servants produced cloth for bed ticking
and garments. A few estates even began turning out
elegant silks
and fine linens.
Because textiles
were of little
value compared
to tobacco, most
planters preferred
to import cloth
from England.
At page 33, "Society of Colonial Wars" it is recorded that Squire Boone I, 1696-1765, served against the Catawba and Cherokee Indians on several occasions. He was justice for Rowen County, NC. This record establishes membership for Squire Boone's descendants to the Colonial Dames of America.
Squire Boone enlarged his farm by thrift. He continued his trade of weaving and kept 5 or 6 looms going making homespun cloth for the market and neighbors.
A few metal parts from spinning wheels and looms have been excavated—reminders that the pioneer housewife who spun the thread and yarn, and wove the cloth for her large family, was seldom idle.
Weavers were a universally popular element of the community. The travelling weaver was, like all other itinerant tradesmen of the day, a welcome newsmonger; and the weaver who took in weaving was often a stationary gossip, and gathered inquiring groups in his loom-room; even children loved to go to his door to beg for bits of colored yarn—thrums—which they used in their play, and also tightly braided to wear as shoestrings, hair-laces, etc.
Loom types and countries used in.
Weaving and dyeing process in early New York.
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/monographs/pvd_ny.pdf
Weavers made cloth from yarn in Albany for most of its formative years. Cloth was used locally and also as a barter item in the fur trade. Weavers provided a basic and essential part of the pre-industrial city's production economy.
https://www.nysm.nysed.gov/albany/trades/weaver.html
Friday, 18 January 2013
Hemp Rope Arrived.
My hemp rope finally arrived. It has a very strong scent, almost like sheep. I could not figure it out for a while then realised it reminded me not only of sheep, but also of a Grocer shop I used to frequent as a kid. Back then the grocer shop was where you went for dry goods, beans, peas, and a large variety of grains and flour. It all came in large sacks and you purchased by the measure. I used to love the scent in that store.
In the 18th century in Virginia it was apparently compulsory by law to grow hemp. "17th Century America, farmers in Virginia, Massachusetts and Connecticut were ordered by law to grow Indian hemp. By the early 18th century, a person could be sentenced to jail if they weren’t growing hemp on their land! Hemp was considered to be legal tender. For over 200 years in colonial America, hemp was currency that one could use to pay their taxes with!"
http://www.hemp.com/history-of-hemp/
In the 18th century in Virginia it was apparently compulsory by law to grow hemp. "17th Century America, farmers in Virginia, Massachusetts and Connecticut were ordered by law to grow Indian hemp. By the early 18th century, a person could be sentenced to jail if they weren’t growing hemp on their land! Hemp was considered to be legal tender. For over 200 years in colonial America, hemp was currency that one could use to pay their taxes with!"
http://www.hemp.com/history-of-hemp/
My hemp rope.
Women employed to beat the hemp into fibres. By William Hogarth 18th century.
Fibres of the hemp plant.
Tuesday, 28 June 2011
17th Century Inventory. Part One.
An Appraisemt of the estate of Mr Jonathan Newell late of York psh & County Mercht decd taken in Obedience to an order of yorke County Court bearing Test at yorke ffebruary the 29th Ao 1671/2 By Mr John Smith Mr Edward Moss Mr John Hothersall and Mr Willm Paddison being first Sworne By Capt John Scarsbrooke one of his Mas Justices of the peace of the said County.
In the Store
£ S d
No. 1.8 yds & ½ of redd Kersey at 2S 8d p yd 01:02:08
No. 2. 10 yds almost ditto 2 remts at 2S 4d: 01:03:04
3. 17 yds red broad cloth at 5S 6d p yd 04:13:06
4. 15 yds ¼ of Cotton demnified at 12 p yd 00:15:03
5. 7 yds ½ Cotton more at 12d p yd 00:07:06
6: 08 yds ½ redd pennisston at 1S 6d p yd 00:12:09
7: 05 yards more ditto at 1S 6d p yd 00:07:06
8: 01 yd ½ Cotton 00:01:06
9: 05 Match Coats almost 2 yeares at three & six pence 00:17:06
10: 17 yds & ½ of redd tradeing clth at one & ten pence p yd 01:12:01
11. 12 yds whited Kers at 4d p yd 00:04:00
12. 10 yds ¼ dark Cold Kersey at 3S p yd 01:10:09
13: 07 yds ½ of dark Coled bro cloth at 7S 02:12:06
14: 07 yds Linsey Woolsey at 9d p yard 00:12:09
15: 07 yds ½ of Saloon cloth Cold at 2S 4d 00:17:06
16: 14 yds ½ Striped Stuff at 12d p yard 00:14:06
17: 08 yds in 2 Remts of Stuff at 1S 3d 00:10:00
18: 22 yds ½: ½ yd wide Linsey Woolsey at 10d p yard 00:18:06
19: 04 yds ¾ of Stuff at 1S 3d p yd 00:05:03
20: 07 yds ½ Stuff more at 10d p yd 00:06:03
21: 28 yds Tamey dark Cold at 10d p yd 01:03:04
22: 30 yds ditto green at 12d p yard 01:10:00
No. 23. 24 yds ¾ of Stuff all damnified 00:12:04
24: 05 yds ½ of drugget at 2S 00:10:06
25: 02 yds ½ Stuff at 10d p yard 00:02:01
26: 04 yd ½ Stuff at 12d p yard 00:04:06
27: 01 and wt. Dimitty & 2 ends Cold 01:11:04
28: 23 Ells Canvas at 9d ½ 00:18:02
29: 14 Ells Ditto at 6d 00:07:00
30: 18 Ells ditto at 9d p ell 00:13:06
31: 92 ells ditto at 12d p ell 04:12:00
32: 79 ells ditto damgd at 8d p ell 03:05:00
33: 47 ells Canvas at 11d p ell 02:03:01
34: 55 ells Ozeng at 8d p ell 01:16:08
35: 16 ells ditto thinn at 7d p ell 00:09:04
36: 23 ells ditto at 7d p ell 00:13:05
37: 43 ells Lockerham at 12d p ell 02:03:00
38: 24 ells ¾ of Course bro Lockram 9d 00:18:02 ¾
39: 34 ells Lockram at 10d p ell 01:08:05
40: 15 ells ¼ saylrs diap at 7d 00:08:10¼
41: 39 ells ¾ ditto in Remts at 8d 01:06:06
42: 22 ells ¼ of ¾ dowlas at 5S 6d 01:13:04½
43: 12 ells ¼ of ditto Linnen at 15d 00:15:03
00: 02 doz w Callico Neck cloths at 1S 6d 00:15:00
44: 46 ells Lockram very Course in 3 peces 02:02:02
45: 34 ells ¼ Hambrough Cloth at 8 p ell 01:02:10
46: 40 ells ½ bro: Lockra at 10d p ell 01:13:09
47: 27 ells of cory way Course Canvas at 5d 00:10:05
48: 11 ells ¾ course Lockra at 11d p ell 00:10:08
49: 01 ell ½ more 00:00:10
50: 22 yds Callico 2 Remts at 12d 01:02:00
No. 51: 09 yds ditto more 00:09:00
52: 01 booke Callico Stained 00:02:00
53: 17 ells bro Ozen at 8d p ell 00:11:04
No. 1. 17 yds ¼ of blew Linnen 9d p yd 00:12:11
2: 32 yds ¼ more at 6d p yd 00:16:01½
3: 32 yds ditto at 6d ½ p yard 00:17:04
4: 34 yds ¾ ditto in 2 Remts at 8d p yd 01:02:10
5: 08 yds more at 9d p yd 00:06:00
6: 19 yds ¼ more at 9 p yd 00:14:05
7: 26 yds more at 7d p yd 00:15:02
8: 22 yds more in 2 remts at 9d 00:16:06
9: 30 yds more at 9d p yd 01:02:06
10: 19 yds ¾ of blew Linnen more at 10d ½ p yard 00:17:02½
In the Store
£ S d
No. 1.8 yds & ½ of redd Kersey at 2S 8d p yd 01:02:08
No. 2. 10 yds almost ditto 2 remts at 2S 4d: 01:03:04
3. 17 yds red broad cloth at 5S 6d p yd 04:13:06
4. 15 yds ¼ of Cotton demnified at 12 p yd 00:15:03
5. 7 yds ½ Cotton more at 12d p yd 00:07:06
6: 08 yds ½ redd pennisston at 1S 6d p yd 00:12:09
7: 05 yards more ditto at 1S 6d p yd 00:07:06
8: 01 yd ½ Cotton 00:01:06
9: 05 Match Coats almost 2 yeares at three & six pence 00:17:06
10: 17 yds & ½ of redd tradeing clth at one & ten pence p yd 01:12:01
11. 12 yds whited Kers at 4d p yd 00:04:00
12. 10 yds ¼ dark Cold Kersey at 3S p yd 01:10:09
13: 07 yds ½ of dark Coled bro cloth at 7S 02:12:06
14: 07 yds Linsey Woolsey at 9d p yard 00:12:09
15: 07 yds ½ of Saloon cloth Cold at 2S 4d 00:17:06
16: 14 yds ½ Striped Stuff at 12d p yard 00:14:06
17: 08 yds in 2 Remts of Stuff at 1S 3d 00:10:00
18: 22 yds ½: ½ yd wide Linsey Woolsey at 10d p yard 00:18:06
19: 04 yds ¾ of Stuff at 1S 3d p yd 00:05:03
20: 07 yds ½ Stuff more at 10d p yd 00:06:03
21: 28 yds Tamey dark Cold at 10d p yd 01:03:04
22: 30 yds ditto green at 12d p yard 01:10:00
No. 23. 24 yds ¾ of Stuff all damnified 00:12:04
24: 05 yds ½ of drugget at 2S 00:10:06
25: 02 yds ½ Stuff at 10d p yard 00:02:01
26: 04 yd ½ Stuff at 12d p yard 00:04:06
27: 01 and wt. Dimitty & 2 ends Cold 01:11:04
28: 23 Ells Canvas at 9d ½ 00:18:02
29: 14 Ells Ditto at 6d 00:07:00
30: 18 Ells ditto at 9d p ell 00:13:06
31: 92 ells ditto at 12d p ell 04:12:00
32: 79 ells ditto damgd at 8d p ell 03:05:00
33: 47 ells Canvas at 11d p ell 02:03:01
34: 55 ells Ozeng at 8d p ell 01:16:08
35: 16 ells ditto thinn at 7d p ell 00:09:04
36: 23 ells ditto at 7d p ell 00:13:05
37: 43 ells Lockerham at 12d p ell 02:03:00
38: 24 ells ¾ of Course bro Lockram 9d 00:18:02 ¾
39: 34 ells Lockram at 10d p ell 01:08:05
40: 15 ells ¼ saylrs diap at 7d 00:08:10¼
41: 39 ells ¾ ditto in Remts at 8d 01:06:06
42: 22 ells ¼ of ¾ dowlas at 5S 6d 01:13:04½
43: 12 ells ¼ of ditto Linnen at 15d 00:15:03
00: 02 doz w Callico Neck cloths at 1S 6d 00:15:00
44: 46 ells Lockram very Course in 3 peces 02:02:02
45: 34 ells ¼ Hambrough Cloth at 8 p ell 01:02:10
46: 40 ells ½ bro: Lockra at 10d p ell 01:13:09
47: 27 ells of cory way Course Canvas at 5d 00:10:05
48: 11 ells ¾ course Lockra at 11d p ell 00:10:08
49: 01 ell ½ more 00:00:10
50: 22 yds Callico 2 Remts at 12d 01:02:00
No. 51: 09 yds ditto more 00:09:00
52: 01 booke Callico Stained 00:02:00
53: 17 ells bro Ozen at 8d p ell 00:11:04
No. 1. 17 yds ¼ of blew Linnen 9d p yd 00:12:11
2: 32 yds ¼ more at 6d p yd 00:16:01½
3: 32 yds ditto at 6d ½ p yard 00:17:04
4: 34 yds ¾ ditto in 2 Remts at 8d p yd 01:02:10
5: 08 yds more at 9d p yd 00:06:00
6: 19 yds ¼ more at 9 p yd 00:14:05
7: 26 yds more at 7d p yd 00:15:02
8: 22 yds more in 2 remts at 9d 00:16:06
9: 30 yds more at 9d p yd 01:02:06
10: 19 yds ¾ of blew Linnen more at 10d ½ p yard 00:17:02½
18th Century Cloth Fabric Terminology.
Of Silk, Cotton, Linen and Wool
Boston Newsletter
June 25 - July 2 1772
Any person that has accasion to have any Linnen Cloth made into Buckram, or to buy buckram ready made, or Callendring any Silk, Watering, Dyeing or Scouring; they may apply themselves to Samuel Hall, lately from London, and Thomas Webber near the New North Brick Meeting House, or at their Work-House near the Bowling Green, Boston.
from The Beekman Mercantile Paper 1746 - 1799
18th Century Trade Terms
(Fabrics)
A LA MODE: thin, lightweight, glossy silk used for scarves and hoods
ALEPINE: (alapine, alpine) French word for Bombazine, dress material first made entirely of silk but later of silk and cotton.
BAISE: coarse woolen used especially for work clothes.
BALLINDINE: a white Turkish silk
BANDANNA: richly coloured silk handkerchief with spots left white or yellow; also a cotton of similar pattern.
BARCELONA HANDKERCHIEF: one made of soft twilled silk
BARLEYCORN STUFF: dress fabric characterized by small spots (1/3")
BASKET CLOTH: woolen characterized by small squares produced by the weave.
BAPTISTE: fine white linen of French or Flemish manufacture, much used for neckwear.
BEAVER CLOTH: heavily napped fabric in imitation of beaver fur used for coats and scarves.
BENGAL: light thin cloth made of silk and hair.
BIRD'S EYE STUFF: cotton or linen marked or spotted as if with bird's eyes.
BLANKET: any thick, heavy wool, cotton or combination wool and cotton, with a short nap on both sides; often a white or undyed woolen stuff used for clothing.
BLONE LACE: (blonde) a white silk pillow lace.
BOMBAZINE: dress material entirely of silk, later of silk and cotton
BROAD CLOTH: soft lustrous woolen with nap sheared close and pressed; also a fine, smooth surfaced cotton or silk.
BRUNSWICKS: twilled fabric made in Germany
BUCKRAM: coarse linen stiffened with gum or paste and used for linings.
BUNT: open-made worsted or cotton for flags.
CALENDAR: machine and rollers to press cloth to smooth or glaze or to give it a wavy appearance.
CALICO: cotton imported from Calicut, India, generally imported in natural color.
CALLAMANCO: plain or patterned woolen of Flemish or English manufacture, sometimes part silk or goat hair.
CAMBRIC: fine, thin white linen made in Cambrai, Flanders; also an imitation made from closely woven cotton.
CAMLET, CAMBLET: originally a costly fabric made from camel hair or angora wool; also a wide variety of similar cloth made from silk, wool, or combinations of fibres; camlets were characterized by silky texture and were often watered.
CASHMERE: the fine wool found beneath the hair of the goats of Kashir and Tibet; a soft twill fabric or shawl made from this.
CASSIMERE: medium weight woolen of soft texture used especially for men's clothing.
CHELLOES: an Indian fabric
CHEVIOT: woolen named for Scottish sheep - cloth has a hairy nap.
CHEVRETTE: thin goatskin used for gloves.
CHINTS: painted or stained calicoes from India, later a cotton cloth fast printed with designs in a number of colors, sometimes glazed
CHIP HATS: those made from wood or woody fibres split into thin strips.
CLOCK: ornamental pattern in silk thread worked on the side of a stocking or other garment.
DUCK: strong, untwilled linen or cotton, lighter and finer than canvas. Russian duck is coarse, heavy and unbleached but softer than English duck.
DUFFELS: coarse woolen with thick nap or frieze.
DURANT: thick, heavily felted woolen made to imitate buff leather also called Everlasting.
FELT: fabric of wool or wool and fur or hair, made by beating and rolling the fibers under moist heat; used not only in hats but if especially heavy, in carpets.
FERRET: strong tape of cotton or silk.
FLANNEL: loosely woven, lightweight woolen with slight nap.
FLORINTINE: rough material made from wild as opposed to cultivated silk, for curtains and parasols.
FRIEZE: coarse woolen with nap usually on one side only; cloth with looped pile.
FUSTIANS: coarse cloth of cotton and flax, thick twilled cotton with short nap.
GAUZE: thin transparent fabrics of silk, linen or cotton.
GIMP: In lace-making gimp is a coarse thread which forms the outline of the design; in curtains or furniture trimming gimp is a narrow band usually of silk or worsted with a cord running through it.
GROSGRAIN: (program) a coarse fabric of silk, of mohair and wool, or of these mixed with silk and often stiffened with gum; a particularly thick taffeta.
HOLLAND: a closely woven white linen used especially for shirts and bed linen.
HUCKABUCK: a stout linen fabric with the weft threads thrown up to form a rough surface; used especially for towels.
HUM-HUM: a coarse cotton of Indian origin used for lining coats.
JEAN: a stout twilled cotton cloth.
KENTING: a kind of fine linen named for its place of manufacture, the County of Kent.
KERSEY (karsey): a kind of coarse woolen cloth made chiefly in Kent and Devonshire.
LAWN: a kind of fine, thin linen of open texture.
LEVERET: the fur of a young rabbit.
LINSEY: probably short for linsey-woolsey; a coarse cloth made of linen and wool.
LORETTOS: a silk material used for waistcoats
LUNGI (lungee): a fabric of Indian origin made with richly colored silk and cotton.
LUSTRING (lutestring): a soft silk which might be either plain or flowered.
MOHAIR: yarn made from the hair of the Angorra goat; a fine camlet made from that yarn; imitations of the yarn or cloth.
MOREEN: a strong woolen or woolen and cotton material, often watered, used for curtains and in upholstery.
MUFFETEE: a muffler worn around the neck or a worsted cuff worn on the wrist.
MUSLIN: a general name for the most delicately woven cotton fabrics, especially those used for ladies dresses, curtains, etc.
NANKEEN: a sturdy brownish-yellow cloth produced in Nanking; imitations of that cloth.
OSNABURG (osnabrig): a coarse heavy linen made originally in Osnaburg, Germany, and used most often for sacking and bagging.
PADUASOY (paduasways, padersoy): a strong, corded or gros-grain silk worn by both sexes; made originally in Padua.
PATNA: an Indian chintz produced at the city of Patua
PEELING (pealong): a thin skin of fabric used as dress material.
PENCIL CALICO: that to which dye has been applied with an artists pencil (a brush designed for fine, delicate work).
PENISTONE (pennystone): a coarse woolen named for a town in Yorkshire, used for garments, linings.
PERSIAN: a thin soft silk used most often for linings
PILLOWS (pilloes): a kind of coarse fustian.
POPLIN: a ribbed dress fabric made of wool, silk and wool, cotton and wool, or other combinations; it is distinguished by fine warp yarns which cover completely the coarser yarns of the woof which form the ribs; the highly regarded Irish poplin was made of silk and wool.
PRINCES: a corded linen cloth.
PRUNELLA (prunellos): a strong fabric made from silk but later of worsted and used for men's gowns or later for the upper portions of women's shoes.
RATTEEN: a thick twilled woolen usually friezed or with a curled nap, but sometimes dressed similar to frieze.
SAGATHY: a light woolen stuff, a kind or serge or ratteen, sometimes mixed with a little silk.
SARSENET: a very fine and soft silk material made both plain and twilled in various colors and used especially for linings and ribbons.
SATIN: a silk fabric with a glossy surface, imitations of that cloth.
SATEEN: a cotton imitation of satin.
SERGE: a woolen fabric, a durable twilled cloth of wool or silk and wool.
SHAG: a worsted or silk cloth with a velvet nap, same as duffel.
SHALLOON: a closely woven woolen used chiefly for linings.
SHEETING: strong linen or cotton cloth used for bed linen.
SILESIAS: thin but coarse linen from Silesia, used for the backs of vests and for other clothing, also a cotton imitation.
SKEIN: a quantity of thread or yarn wound to a certain length on a reel; a skein of cotton is eighty turns of the thread on a reel 54 inches in circumference; the definition varies with other fibers.
STUFF: any woven textile, but especially woollen cloths without a nap.
SWANSKIN: a fine thick kind of flannel.
TABBY: a thick silk usually watered and stronger than taffeta
TAFFETA: a light thin silk of high luster used especially as a dress fabric.
TAMMY: a fine worsted cloth often glazed and usually highly colored.
THICKSET: a strong twilled cotton cloth with a very close nap, a kind of fustian.
TICK: a strong linen or cotton fabric woven in stripes and often in herringbone weave; it was used for upholstery and bedding.
VELVERET: a variety of fustian with a velvet surface.
VELVET: a silk fabric with a thick soft pile of short erect threads; sometimes a similar woolen cloth.
VELVETEEN: cotton imitation of velvet.
WILDBORE: a strong, closely woven, unglazed tammy.
WORSTED: a woolen fabric made from well-twisted yarn spun of long staple wool combed to lay the fibers parallel; also the yarn of which such cloth was made.
Boston Newsletter
June 25 - July 2 1772
Any person that has accasion to have any Linnen Cloth made into Buckram, or to buy buckram ready made, or Callendring any Silk, Watering, Dyeing or Scouring; they may apply themselves to Samuel Hall, lately from London, and Thomas Webber near the New North Brick Meeting House, or at their Work-House near the Bowling Green, Boston.
from The Beekman Mercantile Paper 1746 - 1799
18th Century Trade Terms
(Fabrics)
A LA MODE: thin, lightweight, glossy silk used for scarves and hoods
ALEPINE: (alapine, alpine) French word for Bombazine, dress material first made entirely of silk but later of silk and cotton.
BAISE: coarse woolen used especially for work clothes.
BALLINDINE: a white Turkish silk
BANDANNA: richly coloured silk handkerchief with spots left white or yellow; also a cotton of similar pattern.
BARCELONA HANDKERCHIEF: one made of soft twilled silk
BARLEYCORN STUFF: dress fabric characterized by small spots (1/3")
BASKET CLOTH: woolen characterized by small squares produced by the weave.
BAPTISTE: fine white linen of French or Flemish manufacture, much used for neckwear.
BEAVER CLOTH: heavily napped fabric in imitation of beaver fur used for coats and scarves.
BENGAL: light thin cloth made of silk and hair.
BIRD'S EYE STUFF: cotton or linen marked or spotted as if with bird's eyes.
BLANKET: any thick, heavy wool, cotton or combination wool and cotton, with a short nap on both sides; often a white or undyed woolen stuff used for clothing.
BLONE LACE: (blonde) a white silk pillow lace.
BOMBAZINE: dress material entirely of silk, later of silk and cotton
BROAD CLOTH: soft lustrous woolen with nap sheared close and pressed; also a fine, smooth surfaced cotton or silk.
BRUNSWICKS: twilled fabric made in Germany
BUCKRAM: coarse linen stiffened with gum or paste and used for linings.
BUNT: open-made worsted or cotton for flags.
CALENDAR: machine and rollers to press cloth to smooth or glaze or to give it a wavy appearance.
CALICO: cotton imported from Calicut, India, generally imported in natural color.
CALLAMANCO: plain or patterned woolen of Flemish or English manufacture, sometimes part silk or goat hair.
CAMBRIC: fine, thin white linen made in Cambrai, Flanders; also an imitation made from closely woven cotton.
CAMLET, CAMBLET: originally a costly fabric made from camel hair or angora wool; also a wide variety of similar cloth made from silk, wool, or combinations of fibres; camlets were characterized by silky texture and were often watered.
CASHMERE: the fine wool found beneath the hair of the goats of Kashir and Tibet; a soft twill fabric or shawl made from this.
CASSIMERE: medium weight woolen of soft texture used especially for men's clothing.
CHELLOES: an Indian fabric
CHEVIOT: woolen named for Scottish sheep - cloth has a hairy nap.
CHEVRETTE: thin goatskin used for gloves.
CHINTS: painted or stained calicoes from India, later a cotton cloth fast printed with designs in a number of colors, sometimes glazed
CHIP HATS: those made from wood or woody fibres split into thin strips.
CLOCK: ornamental pattern in silk thread worked on the side of a stocking or other garment.
DUCK: strong, untwilled linen or cotton, lighter and finer than canvas. Russian duck is coarse, heavy and unbleached but softer than English duck.
DUFFELS: coarse woolen with thick nap or frieze.
DURANT: thick, heavily felted woolen made to imitate buff leather also called Everlasting.
FELT: fabric of wool or wool and fur or hair, made by beating and rolling the fibers under moist heat; used not only in hats but if especially heavy, in carpets.
FERRET: strong tape of cotton or silk.
FLANNEL: loosely woven, lightweight woolen with slight nap.
FLORINTINE: rough material made from wild as opposed to cultivated silk, for curtains and parasols.
FRIEZE: coarse woolen with nap usually on one side only; cloth with looped pile.
FUSTIANS: coarse cloth of cotton and flax, thick twilled cotton with short nap.
GAUZE: thin transparent fabrics of silk, linen or cotton.
GIMP: In lace-making gimp is a coarse thread which forms the outline of the design; in curtains or furniture trimming gimp is a narrow band usually of silk or worsted with a cord running through it.
GROSGRAIN: (program) a coarse fabric of silk, of mohair and wool, or of these mixed with silk and often stiffened with gum; a particularly thick taffeta.
HOLLAND: a closely woven white linen used especially for shirts and bed linen.
HUCKABUCK: a stout linen fabric with the weft threads thrown up to form a rough surface; used especially for towels.
HUM-HUM: a coarse cotton of Indian origin used for lining coats.
JEAN: a stout twilled cotton cloth.
KENTING: a kind of fine linen named for its place of manufacture, the County of Kent.
KERSEY (karsey): a kind of coarse woolen cloth made chiefly in Kent and Devonshire.
LAWN: a kind of fine, thin linen of open texture.
LEVERET: the fur of a young rabbit.
LINSEY: probably short for linsey-woolsey; a coarse cloth made of linen and wool.
LORETTOS: a silk material used for waistcoats
LUNGI (lungee): a fabric of Indian origin made with richly colored silk and cotton.
LUSTRING (lutestring): a soft silk which might be either plain or flowered.
MOHAIR: yarn made from the hair of the Angorra goat; a fine camlet made from that yarn; imitations of the yarn or cloth.
MOREEN: a strong woolen or woolen and cotton material, often watered, used for curtains and in upholstery.
MUFFETEE: a muffler worn around the neck or a worsted cuff worn on the wrist.
MUSLIN: a general name for the most delicately woven cotton fabrics, especially those used for ladies dresses, curtains, etc.
NANKEEN: a sturdy brownish-yellow cloth produced in Nanking; imitations of that cloth.
OSNABURG (osnabrig): a coarse heavy linen made originally in Osnaburg, Germany, and used most often for sacking and bagging.
PADUASOY (paduasways, padersoy): a strong, corded or gros-grain silk worn by both sexes; made originally in Padua.
PATNA: an Indian chintz produced at the city of Patua
PEELING (pealong): a thin skin of fabric used as dress material.
PENCIL CALICO: that to which dye has been applied with an artists pencil (a brush designed for fine, delicate work).
PENISTONE (pennystone): a coarse woolen named for a town in Yorkshire, used for garments, linings.
PERSIAN: a thin soft silk used most often for linings
PILLOWS (pilloes): a kind of coarse fustian.
POPLIN: a ribbed dress fabric made of wool, silk and wool, cotton and wool, or other combinations; it is distinguished by fine warp yarns which cover completely the coarser yarns of the woof which form the ribs; the highly regarded Irish poplin was made of silk and wool.
PRINCES: a corded linen cloth.
PRUNELLA (prunellos): a strong fabric made from silk but later of worsted and used for men's gowns or later for the upper portions of women's shoes.
RATTEEN: a thick twilled woolen usually friezed or with a curled nap, but sometimes dressed similar to frieze.
SAGATHY: a light woolen stuff, a kind or serge or ratteen, sometimes mixed with a little silk.
SARSENET: a very fine and soft silk material made both plain and twilled in various colors and used especially for linings and ribbons.
SATIN: a silk fabric with a glossy surface, imitations of that cloth.
SATEEN: a cotton imitation of satin.
SERGE: a woolen fabric, a durable twilled cloth of wool or silk and wool.
SHAG: a worsted or silk cloth with a velvet nap, same as duffel.
SHALLOON: a closely woven woolen used chiefly for linings.
SHEETING: strong linen or cotton cloth used for bed linen.
SILESIAS: thin but coarse linen from Silesia, used for the backs of vests and for other clothing, also a cotton imitation.
SKEIN: a quantity of thread or yarn wound to a certain length on a reel; a skein of cotton is eighty turns of the thread on a reel 54 inches in circumference; the definition varies with other fibers.
STUFF: any woven textile, but especially woollen cloths without a nap.
SWANSKIN: a fine thick kind of flannel.
TABBY: a thick silk usually watered and stronger than taffeta
TAFFETA: a light thin silk of high luster used especially as a dress fabric.
TAMMY: a fine worsted cloth often glazed and usually highly colored.
THICKSET: a strong twilled cotton cloth with a very close nap, a kind of fustian.
TICK: a strong linen or cotton fabric woven in stripes and often in herringbone weave; it was used for upholstery and bedding.
VELVERET: a variety of fustian with a velvet surface.
VELVET: a silk fabric with a thick soft pile of short erect threads; sometimes a similar woolen cloth.
VELVETEEN: cotton imitation of velvet.
WILDBORE: a strong, closely woven, unglazed tammy.
WORSTED: a woolen fabric made from well-twisted yarn spun of long staple wool combed to lay the fibers parallel; also the yarn of which such cloth was made.
Thursday, 23 December 2010
Rifles, Smoothbores & the use of Wadding.
Smoothbores, Rifles & Wadding.
Early to mid 18th century English guns did not use patch material for round ball shooting. Instead, wadding was used in the same manner as used when firing shot. The rifling in rifles was seen as a solution to the round ball moving from side to side in the barrel, which effected accuracy when shooting over long distances. Fortunately hunters using the fusil did not shoot over long distances, and had no problems shooting game at 50-60 paces. Rifles however required the ball to be driven into the muzzle “by means of an iron rammer, struck with a mallet”. So, rifles did not use a patched ball either, leastways not in England and not by an Englishman.
In Germany however “they sometimes charge them in the following manner: a piece of thin leather or fustian is cut of a circular shape, and so large as to cover a little more than one half of the ball; this piece is then greased on one side, and being placed over the muzzle, the ball is laid upon it, and both thrust down together”.
Smoothbores however; fusils, fowlers and muskets, did not use patched ball, only wadding. “In firing with ball it is observed that the better the ball fits the piece, or the less windage there is, the greater will be the force of the discharge-the wadding of hat (wool or beaver felt hat material cut to fit the bore) may be preferable to that of card or paper…..”.
“In countries where orchards abound, a very fine moss, of greenish grey colour, is found adhering to the apple trees, which is extremely proper for wadding….tow is also very good for this purpose”.
The above information is taken from “An Essay On Shooting 1789”, this book in turn uses “La Chasse au Fusil” as a basis for this work, so it is probably safe to assume that both the English and the French used the same manner of shooting the smoothbore. This in turn makes me question the use of so called “patch knives” by the French hunters which they carried round their necks. I suspect that this knife was instead simply a utility knife.
Waterproofing Leather.
“ Take of tallow, half a pound, Hogs lard, four ounces, Turpentine, two ounces, New bees wax, two ounces, Olive oil, tow ounces. Melt the whole together in an earthen pipkin over the fire, and stir it well while melting”.
I think I have also mentioned before that no mention of priming horns can be found in this period publication, and loading and shooting is covered within.
Early to mid 18th century English guns did not use patch material for round ball shooting. Instead, wadding was used in the same manner as used when firing shot. The rifling in rifles was seen as a solution to the round ball moving from side to side in the barrel, which effected accuracy when shooting over long distances. Fortunately hunters using the fusil did not shoot over long distances, and had no problems shooting game at 50-60 paces. Rifles however required the ball to be driven into the muzzle “by means of an iron rammer, struck with a mallet”. So, rifles did not use a patched ball either, leastways not in England and not by an Englishman.
In Germany however “they sometimes charge them in the following manner: a piece of thin leather or fustian is cut of a circular shape, and so large as to cover a little more than one half of the ball; this piece is then greased on one side, and being placed over the muzzle, the ball is laid upon it, and both thrust down together”.
Smoothbores however; fusils, fowlers and muskets, did not use patched ball, only wadding. “In firing with ball it is observed that the better the ball fits the piece, or the less windage there is, the greater will be the force of the discharge-the wadding of hat (wool or beaver felt hat material cut to fit the bore) may be preferable to that of card or paper…..”.
“In countries where orchards abound, a very fine moss, of greenish grey colour, is found adhering to the apple trees, which is extremely proper for wadding….tow is also very good for this purpose”.
The above information is taken from “An Essay On Shooting 1789”, this book in turn uses “La Chasse au Fusil” as a basis for this work, so it is probably safe to assume that both the English and the French used the same manner of shooting the smoothbore. This in turn makes me question the use of so called “patch knives” by the French hunters which they carried round their necks. I suspect that this knife was instead simply a utility knife.
Waterproofing Leather.
“ Take of tallow, half a pound, Hogs lard, four ounces, Turpentine, two ounces, New bees wax, two ounces, Olive oil, tow ounces. Melt the whole together in an earthen pipkin over the fire, and stir it well while melting”.
I think I have also mentioned before that no mention of priming horns can be found in this period publication, and loading and shooting is covered within.
Rifle.
Smoothbore Fusil.
I used to use hat as wadding before I even read this book, then when I ran out of hat, I started using thes leather wads, cut to size with the wad cutter below.
Tow which I also use as wadding and for cleaning my gun.
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