How to Start Cosplaying

Starting to cosplay or costume can be intimidating.  It's really not that bad, though, when you break it down into steps.  I'll show you what I do.


First, pick a costume.  I've decided on Tsukimi from Princess Jellyfish for this example.  I chose it because I love the series, I love the character, and I've got friends who want to cosplay the series with me!

Second, choose a time frame.  I want this costume for this weekend's Kansas City anime con, Naka-Kon!

Next, start to research the character and choose a costume.  Many characters have more than one outfit, so pick the one you like best or think you can do the best.  I'm going with the iconic, easy one:

Next research the costume.  Start with Google Image search.  Often with anime or drawn media you can find a character study, like this, which is great because it gives you all angles:

Next, using the images you found make a list of all the parts of the outfit.  Sometimes this involves guesswork and deciding "Is that really an underskirt or just a fake split?"  If you have to you can research more into the time period or traditional dress of the source to help educate these decisions.

Pants
Shirt
Socks
Sandals
Black Wig
Glasses
Brown Contacts


After you've got a list go back and start thinking about each piece individually.  Is that part something you can buy or will you need to make or modify it?  If you're buying it, from where?  If you're making it, what pattern will you use?  What kind of fabric?  (We'll cover these in more detail later, just know you need to think on them.)  Notate all this on your list.


Pants - buy from WalMart, add pocket
Shirt - buy from WalMart
Socks - buy from WalMart
Sandals - buy from WalMart, add strap
Black Wig - buy from Epic Cosplay and style
Glasses - buy? KC Costume
Brown Contacts - ignore, don't want to bother


Once you've got a list of pieces start to break down each piece into steps to complete.  Sometimes this can be complicated, sometimes it's easy.

Buy pants
Add pocket to pants
Buy shirt
Buy socks
Buy sandals
Add strap to sandals
Buy wig
Buy barettes
Cut wig
Braid wig
Barette wig
Buy glasses
Buy red nail polish
Paint glasses red


These lists can get really long and complicated for a big costume, but breaking down the list by piece can really help you to think about what you need to do for each step.  Now is a great time to figure out what you do and don't know.  Need to figure out a way to add a strap to sandals?  Google tutorials, ask friends, look for help.  Figure out what steps you're going to need help on and try to figure out where to get that help.

Next, look critically at your list of steps and the time you have between now and the convention.  Do you have time to complete all the steps and not go insane?  Be sure and add in time for testing steps like mocking patterns and trying out new techniques.  Also factor in shipping times.  It's a good idea to add deadlines to all your steps at this point.  I like to use ToDoIst to chart my schedules and provide me with a daily list of what to accomplish to help keep me on track.  I used to use a notepad of sticky notes where I'd just write down what I had to accomplish and then tear off each day.  Use what works for you.  Look critically at your calendar while scheduling.  Do you have a family event that will not let you sew that weekend?  Move things to the next weekend.  Also think about how long each step will take you and plan in extra time for mistakes.

Once you've got your to-do list you're ready to start!  Order your supplies and get going!

Stuff Day - Tutorials

I found a few awesome tutorials on DeviantArt today and I thought I'd share:

http://echoing-artemis.deviantart.com/art/Rapunzel-s-Wig-Tutorial-1-205175201

http://chinsoon.deviantart.com/art/Laura-s-Ayane-Cosplay-Guide-137291776?q=favby%3AAuroraCeleste%2F35720916&qo=12

http://wilkowen.deviantart.com/art/Fiber-Reinforced-Plastic-Armor-Tutorial-363402477

http://rufflebuttcosplay.deviantart.com/art/How-to-make-Props-with-Plastidip-and-Foam-Sheets-353947977

http://elenaleetah.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-How-to-make-light-weight-wings-Kamael-348626950

http://chipface-zero.deviantart.com/art/spraypainting-tutorial-162805572

Tutorial - Gem Centered Shoe Bows

 You will need:

Gemstones (I used red in 13 and15mm sizes)

pearls (I used 3mm)

heavy thread

felt

glue (I used E6000)

beading or thin needles

ribbon

thread that matches the ribbon

shoe clips (I got mine from American Duchess)

 Instructions:

Glue the gems to the felt.

 

Cut the felt around the gem, leaving a small lip of felt around the gem.

Thread two needles with heavy thread.  Push the first through the felt and string a few pearls on it.

Work with two pearls at a time.  Hold them close to the gem in a row.  Push the second needle up between the two beads.

Then push the second needle through the second bead.  This bead will now have two strings through it.

Push the next two beads forward and hold them in line with the last two.  Push the second needle down between the second and the third pearls.

Repeat this sequence of tacking down every other pearl.

 

When you get to the last pearl tack it down, then push the first needle back through the first bead (this prevents a divot between the last and the first beads.

 

Push all the threads through to the back of the felt and knot them.  Because felt is so loosely woven I also glue the knots down so they don't pull through.

 The gem centers are complete!  Now let's make bows!

 Cut a piece of ribbon twice as long as you want your bow to be, plus a seam allowance.

Fold both ends to the center with a 1/4-1/2" overlap.  Thread a needle with matching thread, doubled over, and tie a big knot in the end.  Stitch a running stitch through all three layers of the bow.

 Gather your stitches tight, then secure the gather with a few whipstitches.

 Take a small stitch through the felt backing of a gem.

And stitch back through the bow center, securing the bow to the gem.

Optional:

 Cut two lengths of ribbon for the tails.  Cut them as long as you want the tail to be plus 1/2".  Usually I would cut the ribbon at an angle or cut a notch into it, but I'm trying to copy a specific bow here so I'm doing it straight like the illustration.

Fold over the edge 1/2" and run a straight stitch through the top of the tail.  Pull the stitches tight to gather up the tail.  Take a few whipstitches to secure the gather.

 

Stitch the tail to the bow, right side of the tail to the back of the bow.

A completed tail bow.

Attaching the Shoe Clips:

 Open up the shoe clip like this.

 Using the two holes in the clip, stitch the clip to the back of the bow.  Make sure that the clip prongs are facing you as you are stitching, so the clip closes on itself and not on the bow.  Also, if you're sewing on a bow that has tails be sure that the tails come down opposite the clip prongs so that the bow hangs off your shoe and not up your ankle.  Tie off and you're done!

A completed clip!

How to Put on a Wig

Materials needed:
A wig
a wig cap, pre-stretched
bobby pins - the ones that are straight on one side, wavy on the other, and come tightly closed
hairpins - the ones shaped like Us with waves on both sides. I like the huge ones (yes, you need both)
hair gel (nice, not necessary)


Start with a pretty model like solan_t


Next, in the center of your forehead along your hairline make a big pincurl. Separate out 2 square inches or so of hair and curl around your fingers:


Then pin with two bobby pins shaped in an X. If you have really, really fine hair then you can gel the curl:


Repeat this step to create 5 pincurls at your *anchor points*- One in the center of your forehead, one at each temple right above and in front of your ear, and two in the back of your head at the nape, each one around where those long trails of hair go down your neck:



Next we're going to put the actual hair up. Start in one place on your head and gather the hair. Then, using your head like a big roller, swirl the hair around the head so that it all goes the same direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise) and lays flat against the head:


Then, still holding the hair against your head with one hand, put the wig cap on. Growing an extra arm or two is useful for this step. As you put the wig cap on tuck the band under the *anchor points*, it will take some of those wispy hairs with it and the *anchor points* will prevent it from sliding off. Also, if you have lots of wispies around your temples or in front of your ears, gel them, let dry a bit until gummy, then pull the wig cap over them to pull them back:


Next we put on the wig! The wig should go on from the front. I've seen people say to bend over then flip it on, but it seems to be a lot of work and messy for the wig, and as long as you carefully pull from the front it's not that much of a difference. To start, open the wig and find the two temple tabs. They are usually a sturdier fabric than the rest of the wig. These are going to go in front of your ears, and they're used to position the wig. To start, center the wig on the forehead. If you have two people, have the wearer hold the front of the wig into position on the forehead while you pull the two tabs down to in front of the ears. When the tabs are in position pull the back of the wig down to the nape of the neck. Then slide the front of the wig back until it is in a natural position, ensuring the temple tabs stay positioned in front of the ears.


Next, we're going to actually secure the wig. Starting at a temple take a hairpin and, pushing in slightly on the tines, push it through the fabric of the wig. After it's through the wig angle the pin to go under the wig cap and the pincurl beneath it. This secures the wig under the *anchor point*, preventing it from sliding around or the pin coming out. Repeat with the other temple, then the neck nape points. These four should be enough to secure most wigs. The center forehead point should always be done last. It's also incredibly difficult to secure if you have a wig that has a plastic skin top, so if yours does just skip making a pincurl here. If you have a really heavy styled wig that has a skin top but needs the security, add pincurls on the sides of the forehead right outside the skin top to prevent the wig from sliding back.


And there we go! You can wear a wig!

Dyeing on the Stove Top

Tools needed:

A large stock pot - preferably steel
Water
Fabric - not so much that it has to be seriously wadded up to fit in the pot. I'd say 2 yards is max.
Dye
Salt
Laundry Detergent - dye and scent free. Synthrapol is the best, because it leaves no residues, but you can substitute any other.
Cup - glass or steel to mix the dye in
Spoon - short tablespoon
Long-handled stirring spoon for the pot
Steel Tongs - nice but not necessary

Important to note - anything you start using for dye should forever more be a dye receptacle. Don't try eating out of something that's been used for dying. It's unsafe. Dye is a chemical, and it can be very dangerous.

First you need clean fabric. Clean and wet. To prevent tangling and danglies I usually serge both cut ends. Then wash it in the washer on whatever cycle you would normally wash that type of fabric. Use the dye and scent free detergent. When the cycle finishes just leave the fabric in the washer. We need it wet.

While the washer is going start your dye water. Fill the pan about 3/4 of the way full and start it on high. We don't want it to rolling boil, just the boil stage where little bubbles are forming everywhere. Add salt while you're at it. Usually for my 4 gal. pot I use about 1 1/2 cups. There shouldn't be salt on the bottom when you're done. I use the cheap table salt you can get for 30-50 cents a can, but you can use whatever's cheapest. Just make sure whatever you're using will dissolve (kosher and block salts take longer to dissolve than finely ground stuff). The salt will decrease the surface tension on the water and change its ph, making it easier for the dye to penetrate the fibers.

While that is going work on the dye. It needs to be worked into a liquid form without getting all over, or worse, into your lungs. Measure out the dye into a separate cup (I have a separate dying glass pyrex measuring cup I use for this). Carefully pour a tiny bit of water over top of the dye. Don't pour too roughly, you don't want the dye powder to become airborne. After there's about 1/2" of water in the cup use the spoon to mash the water into the dye. Don't stir - that will cause the dye powder to become airborne. Just mash, getting the dye thoroughly wet and getting rid of lumps. If necessary add more water, a little at a time. When you've got a good dye paste mixed up with no lumps you can add more water and start stirring. Take care not to leave a sludge of dye at the bottom of the cup. When the cup is about half full and the water is at the barely-bubbling point pour the dye in carefully. Stir it around until the water is all the same color and the dye is thoroughly mixed in.

Now it's time to add the fabric! Again, make sure the fabric is damp. Having the fabric already wet helps prevent surface tension from forming in little air bubbles in the fabric. Surface tension will cause spots and uneven dying. So put the fabric in, submerging it as fast as possible without wadding the fabric or causing splashes. Use the spoon and/or the tongs to push the fabric entirely under the water. While you are pushing stir the fabric around so that all parts get into contact with the dye.

Now comes the guessing part. If you did test samples (do them the same way, but in smaller batches), then you know how long to leave the fabric in. If not, then you'll have to just stir it around and pull a corner out occassionally until it looks dark enough. Remember that wet fabric is going to be darker than dry. If I haven't done a test batch but still don't want the fabric too dark then I will cut up a few samples and throw them on top of the fabric. Every few minutes I'll pull out a sample, rinse it, and iron it to quickly dry it so I can see the true color.

When the fabric is the right color then take the pot off the stove and pour it into the sink. Turn on the hot water and rinse the fabric until the water runs clear. This will take A LONG TIME. Every once in a while I'll fill the sink and stir it around to release more dye, then drain and start over again. You can use some soap as well (any soap, even dish soap, is fine), just be sure all the dye is gone. When the dye seems gone I usually switch to the washer just in case. If any dye is left in the sink bleach it out (I have diluted bleach in a spray bottle for this purpose). Same with the washer, when you're done run a load of just bleach water to make sure all the dye is gone. When you're finished washing, dry your newly colored fabric and sew away!

This is also the method I use to dye or tint synthetics. Instead of simmering for a few minutes, I'll simmer for a few hours, making sure that the water level stays high enough to cover the fabric and adding more if necessary. After at least 4 hours (6-10 is better) I'll turn off the stove and cover the pot with tin foil, then let cool overnight (honestly, I usually forget for a few days and there's never been any harm). Then pull it out and wash as usual. Whether or not this will actually work depends on the type of synthetic, what it's blended with, what the proportions are of each fiber, and the weave. I swear it also depends on the phase of the moon and the tidal pull, how many fishes are swimming east, and other completely intangible effects, because they can be pretty random, but IMO it never hurts to try.

Philcon Progress

I've been busy appliqueing away today:

My tips for iron-on appliques:

• Use heavy-duty wonder-under.  It really makes a difference in smooth look.
• Use sharp scissors for a clean line.  It helps with the not fraying.
• Warm up the piece with an iron right before trying to separate the backing from the piece.  Don't make it hot, but a little warmth will help it not stick to the backing.

Want more info?  Watch my video on appliques: 

Bias Binding Tutorial - Version 3

Bias binding is a nice, clean way to finish an edge.  You can use matching fabric or contrasting for a different look.  There's three major ways to do it, so in the next few days I'll be showing you all three versions.  This third version is a little bulkier than the other two, but it's often used in quilting to provide a firm fold.

Version 3: Folded

Start by cutting a strip of bias that is six times the width you want your final bias to be (yes, six, not four like the other two).  So in order to get the same 1/2" binding I need to cut a 3" strip of satin.  My favorite way of doing this is with a rotary cutter, but employ your own favorite way of cutting continuous bias, there are a ton of ways out there.  If your bias is not long enough for your edge piece strips together to get one long enough.  Once you have a strip cut fold it in half wrong sides together and press.

 Pin the raw edges of your folded bias strip flush with the raw edge of your fabric.

Sew the strip down.  The width of your seam allowance will be the width of your final bias binding, in this case 1/2" seam allowance equals 1/2" bias binding.  Open the seam, seam allowances to the bias tape side, and press open.  Then fold the bias around to the back and press, then pin in place.  The bias should just barely cover the seam.

From here you can finish the bias tape either by stitching in the ditch like you did for Version 1 or by slipstitching by hand like you did in Version 2.  This method renders a sturdier, more durable edge that is bulkier than the other methods:

Stuff Day: Bias Tape Maker

Thursday is Stuff day. Sometimes I'll review a movie. Sometimes it'll be a book, or maybe a cool tool. Sometimes I'll just tell you about something neat I've heard of but haven't had a chance to play with yet. It's the stuff I'm excited about right now!

Today's Stuff Day entry is a tool: a Bias Tape Maker!  Plus a video showing you how to use it:

Bias Binding Tutorial - Version 2

Bias binding is a nice, clean way to finish an edge.  You can use matching fabric or contrasting for a different look.  There's three major ways to do it, so in the next few days I'll be showing you all three versions.  The second requires some handwork but presents a fully-finished look with little excess bulk.

Version 2: Hand-Stitched

Start the same way you did for version 1: by cutting a bias strip of fabric 4x the width you want the final binding to be.  For instance, I like 1/2" binding on my corsets so I cut 2" strips.  My favorite way of doing this is with a rotary cutter, but employ your own favorite way of cutting continuous bias, there are a ton of ways out there.  If your bias is not long enough for your edge piece strips together to get one long enough.

Place your bias tape on the edge you're going to finish with the right side down.  Pin it in place with the edge flush to the raw edge of the fabric.

Sew the strip down.  The width of your seam allowance will be the width of your final bias binding, in this case 1/2" seam allowance equals 1/2" bias binding.

Press open the seam you just made with all the seam allowance toward the bias tape side.  Then fold the bias tape over and press again.  Finally fold under the edge of the bias tape so that you have a clean fold on the inside and press.  With this method it isn't important that the fold cover the seam.

Using a needle and thread slipstitch or blind hem the bias tape folded edge to the fabric.  In the case of a corset with multiple layers try to hide the stitch length in the fold of the bias or between the two layers of fabric and be sure to only catch the inside layer with your stitch so that your stitches cannot be seen from the outside.