EasyFix: G.I.Joe Cobra Stun 1986

For all us collectors and Joe nation enthusiasts, there are a few vehicles with common problems. When the MISB, MIB or mint loose/complete option is way too expensive, a considerably lower priced item is in order. And those usually come with known issues. There are many examples, and some will be covered here, like the 1985 Hydrofoil has. Today´s vehicle is the Cobra Stun from 1986 and its common issue, the flags.

Although completionists may prefer looking for brand new flags or looking for a decent trade with friends, the good thing about this procedure is that the parts in question are already "trash" and probably inside the "custom" bucket for a later use. Also, a good chance to practice the techinique or in the process, find another way (which I´d love to hear about).

We´ll then start by looking at the original mint flag/antenna and the broken one. It is good to take a few minutes to find the proper direction and mold lines to follow. These parts, like so many others have visible lines where the plastic was taken out of the mold or halves connected. It is unwise to simply cut and glue in any direction when you can save its look by spending a few minutes observing...

 
You´ll need to drill a 1/2 inch tunnel inside the antenna on both ends. The base and the flag. You´ll need steady hands, patience and a proper drill. This is will be a close call, since the hole´s diameter will be almost the size of the flag´s pole.  Before drilling, pick a proper pointy tip from your modelist cutters case and carefully punch a hole which will serve as a drill guide. That way you won´t be off when starting the most delicate parte of the whole deal.

Don´t try to drill the whole section at once. The metal drill will heat the plastic, causing it to expand around the drill and ruin your work. Instead, do it in steps, like 1-2 seconds perforations. When you´re done, you should have something like seen above (top right image). Then, you must remember this small tunnel is so close to the plastic, any dark-looking material you decide to put in will be seen from the outside. There are a couple of solutions. Either find a very thin (and not rigid) plastic cable from a parts plastic tree, or find an old copper cable and strip it, cut a small piece and slightly bend it (remember the flag is not straight).

 
Try it for size (on bot ends) and find the best position (as close as the original was so both parts become one) before applying glue.

Let it rest for a day or two (although most glue - good ones -will only take 12hrs). 3 days is ideal.

And there you have it. While waiting for a brand new one, your Stun will look almost as new.  This is a good thing when you have more than one Stun and don´t have the time or money to invest in all of them. Hope it helps, YO JOE!... or in this case: COBRAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!

Tutorial: How to fix a G.I.Joe Cobra Moray

A common problem G.I.Joe collectors face with the Cobra Hydrofoil (Moray), is its guns fragility. Many completionists prefer getting new ones, but some others having 2, 3 or more of these great "fast boats" can always fix the problem without having to spend more cash... and having fun in the process...

This simple tutorial will teach the basics for many other cases. May seem obvious to many, but collecting sometimes puts aside the "creative child" in most of us. Challenge is fun and in the end, we can surprise ourselves!

The 2 most common problems: 30mm machine guns (stern) and the port/starboard shore-assault 55mm cannons.

If you´re not already saving these, start doing so. These plastic "trees" will help you fix a lot of problems. Many people use metal to join broken parts, and some work very well. But plastic and metal don´t always mix that good and in time, tend to break apart... again. Plastic does the job smoothly (and if you find the same density, even better).

1st, find a "tube" with the closest diameter possible. If it´s the same, even better. With a scalpel, try to cut as flat as possible, apply some heat on top to bring it down half a milimeter to replicate the same effect (round edges) of the original. The hardest part will be the quadrangular hole, so patience and good hands are needed.

This is, basically, what you need to do. Final piece will have to look something like the dark gray picture. Arrow shows the spot where heat will be applied. You can use a heat gun for miniatures or even a lighter will do. But be aware of the danger, don´t get burned in the process! Like said before, the really tricky part will be the hole to fit the cannon bar. You´ll have to drill (or cut) almost to the other end of the cylinder, but don´t cut through.

The other fixing spot is a lot easier to handle. An electric drill with the exact measure will be the ideal tool. You´ll start by cleaning the holes (where a lot of 2nd hand/ used Morays have glue on) and fit the newly fixed 30mm guns. To fix those, find a cable/tube of plastic in your plastic trees with the same diameter of the original machine gun emplacement (it´s nice to have one as a reference, but if you don´t just keep trying to fit in the stern holes different plastic cables until you find one that serves the purpose). Drill the 30mm gun base 3 or 4 mm and fit the new peg. Easy does it and you´re done.