Total Solar Eclipse Trip 2017 - Part 3

Continued from Part 2 - Starts with Part 1

Colorado
Part 3 of 3

Remember, click on any photo to open larger versions of all images.

Friday, August 25th, continued

At Dinosaur, CO, I turned off Brontosaurus Blvd (US-40) onto Stegosaurus Fwy (CO-64) which passes through some oil/gas fields near the town of Rangely, where I turned south on CO-139.

This road runs though a few miles of dry, washboard hills which I later discovered is part of the Canyon Pintado National Historic District. Apparently there are hundreds of archaeological sites, pictographs and petroglyphs, but I was not able to find very much detailed information about the area online. I had noticed cars parked at a few trailheads while driving through. The highway ascends the 8300' Douglas Pass before dropping back down and reaching I-70 near Lorna, CO. Just south of the pass I did notice a dirt road that might have dispersed camping. It would be a cool spot surrounded by dry desert if one needed a stop and it is BLM land.

I took the interstate to Grand Junction where I turned south on US-50. I passed Delta with Grand Mesa on my left and the Uncompahgre Plateau on my right - I was back in familiar territory. I'd never noticed Olathe before, but that's where much of the sweet corn we have been getting lately in NM is grown. At Montrose US-550 begins and leads to Ouray, "The Switzerland of the Rockies."

South of Montrose I could see the mountains near Owl Pass, east of Rigway

The skies were blue and the atmosphere clear showing off the dramatic mountains. I was so happy to see them again as I'd spent my camping time last year mostly in Utah and northern Arizona.

Looking toward Ouray as I drove south on US-550

Red Mountain south of Ouray, north of Silverton

South Mineral Creek

I wanted to visit one of my favorite places even though it seems to have been "discovered" the last few years (and I was coming in on a Friday.) I first camped up South Mineral Creek in 1972 in my VW Campmobile (tm) with a pop top. It, and similar Colorado treasures, had been one of the things that had encouraged me to get my current truck and pop-up camper.

The last time I tried to camp along South Mineral Creek it was so crowded that I abandoned the plan and drove over Ophir Pass instead and camped near Telluride. This time it was pretty crowded, too, though maybe not quite as bad. As I was driving up the road I saw cars pulled to the side and people looking at something with their binoculars. I turned my head to see what held their interest. There were two moose with full racks browsing in the willows on the other side of the creek. I took a few photos, and although the brush hid most of these big mammals, they are nonetheless the best photos I've yet gotten of moose.

Moose!

Just look at that rack!

Camping along the road is informal, but restricted primarily to designated areas, most of which were very full. I did find what I thought was an isolated spot away from the creek, but after I got all set up and sat down to enjoy the evening, someone's dog nearby began to bark and bark and bark and bark. I just don't understand people who either let their dogs bark incessantly or leave them alone to do so. It was getting late, and the dog had not stopped in 15 minutes, so I had to decide right away: hope the barking stopped or move camp.

I dropped the top, battened down, and left. There two sites that I'd passed up before as they were little more than spaces where the road widened - not bad for tent campers who could walk down to closer to the creek, but no so great for a truck camper. Both of those were now taken, so I returned to the first camping area closest to the highway.

Lovely evening along South Mineral Creek. Looks nice and peaceful, doesn't it?

Evening view of South Mineral Creek. See the crescent moon?

This is a fairly large area covered with round cobbles; a flood zone in spring I conjecture. There are sections screened by trees and others more like a parking lot. Only one of the "parking lots" had space. I backed between a 5th wheel trailer and a giant Class A mobilehome. At least I was near the creek. It was fairly quiet until the behemoth next door fired up their diesel generator. The noise wasn't too bad, and I was listening to a baseball game on satellite radio, but the darn thing literally made my camper vibrate. Fortunately, they were not bad neighbors and cut it off about 9:15pm. The campground was quiet after that and I could once again fall asleep to the sound of water running over rocks.

Saturday, August 26

A wider angle photo of my campsite and neighbors, but with gorgeous mountains on all sides.

Actually, that first camping area on South Mineral Creek is useful. I got there earlier in the day a couple years ago and was able to park in a moderately isolated space right next to the creek. It is also not bad if you come late in the day and want to spend another night or two in the area - simply find an acceptable site the first night, then drive up the road the next morning to find and claim a nicer site.

The road up South Mineral Creek.

More beautiful scenery

I caught a reflection in this beaver pond

This little Pine Siskin was foraging along the creek

I knew I was only 5 or 6 hours from home, so chose to spend the morning in this beautiful area. I drove up South Mineral Creek road, stopping a couple of times to walk along the creek and take photos of the striking mountain peaks. I kept an eye out, but saw no moose this morning. There was also a jeep trail I'd been daring myself to try for years. Would I be brave enough to try it this time?

Here's another animated gif for your viewing pleasure.
Let me know in the comments of you love, or hate, these gifs in my blog.

Clear Lake

I got up the nerve and started up Clear Lake Road. It is not marked as 4-wheel drive only, so I was hopefull it would not be too rough. At the first switchback there were a number of cars parked. I later learned this is a trailhead to Ice and Fuller Lakes. I stopped to chat with a gentleman and his son who were descending the road in their Jeep. I asked about the road condition. He said it was fine, I'd have no problems. I was encouraged.

View up South Mineral Creek valley from Clear Lake Road

A similar view, wider as I'm farther up the road at this point.

As the road climbed the views were spectacular, especially toward the valley in which South Mineral Creek descends. I could see the road that parallels the creek. I'd driven up that way a few years ago and man, it was so rocky - large rocks that you had to slowly lurch over. The Bandaras Mine ruins are up there and if you ford the creek you come to a wide meadow with space to disperse camp. I didn't camp up there that time as it was cold and at a very high elevation.

Outflow from Clear Lake forms this cascading waterfall.

About 3/4ths the way to the lake there is a tall waterfall with space to park at a switchback. I also got a pretty good photo of a marmot there.

This good sized marmot was following the creek down along, then below the waterfall

This Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel ran across the road right in front of me, so I took his picture.

It didn't bother him that I was so close as I drove by him, so I snapped this one.

The road gets a little rougher for that last stretch, but not that bad. I made it to Clear Lake. A beautiful spot at 12000' elevation. The lake is surrounded on three sides by mountain peaks. You could camp there if you didn't mind a parade of visitors all day and the cold temperatures of that elevation at night - still the view is terrific.

Clear Lake

A phone panorama - I had to do a little cloning near the mountain peak, so it might not be totally accurate

I walked around taking photos and a panorama with my phone. As I was leaving the lake I took photos of the wildflowers. About halfway down I stopped where there was a small site at at switchback, and made a picnic lunch. I drove back out South Mineral Road, past Silverton, and south on 550.

A field of yellow wildflowers below Clear Lake.

The road as it approaches Clear Lake

A view of the lake from the same vantage as the previous photo

A close-up of the wildflowers - Mule's Ears

A last view of the lake from the shoreline

A close-up of colorful Fireweed.

After leaving the South Mineral Creek valley, I passed Silverton.

Silverton, Colorado

This small peak is just to the left (north) of Silverton. Photo taken from the same spot as the shot above.

I checked out a few side roads for dispersed camping possibilities for a future trip, including the no-fee campground at Little Molas Lake. I relished the views and cool air as I drove down the mountain.

View from the Molas Pass overlook

The Highway Home

As I'd already had lunch, I didn't stop at Zia's Taqueria in Durango, even though they have the most delicious fish tacos.

Soon I was back in New Mexico and followed US-550 home.

It was a great trip, even with the smokey skies. I made it to three states I'd never visited before. I witnessed a total solar eclipse for the first time. Saw an old friend and met new friends. Thanks for coming along via my blog.

In Search of Autumn Color: Colorado

A Narrative in 3 Parts

Colorado, October 2 – 9, 2014

My plan was to head up to SW Colorado on the last Monday in September to look for colorful, fall aspen leaves, but the weather forecast was not good, so I delayed leaving until Thursday.
This turned out to be an excellent decision, as the skies were clear when I arrived in Colorado and there was still photogenic snow at the higher elevations (and some mud and slush, too.) I enjoyed great weather most of the trip, though it got cold at night.

I took lots of photos during this trip, so thought breaking up the narrative and images into three parts made sense for you and for me.

Remember to click on a photo to open them all at a larger size in a viewer window.

Here's my route for the full week, very roughly clockwise in travel - follow the red arrows and colorful legend.

Part 1: October 2^nd to the 4^th

The first part of my journey took me up though the San Juan Mountains to Owl Creek Pass. From there I headed northwest, passing though Gunnison, to follow a county road along Ohio Creek up to Kebler Pass Road.

Thursday, October 2nd

As I headed northwest through New Mexico, the truck experienced some head winds left over from the storm passing, but luckily they died down after about an hour. I stopped for lunch at Zia Tacqueria in Durango. As I mentioned in earlier blog posts, my neighbors had raved about their fish tacos, which I had indeed found to be delicious. This time I thought I'd try their green chile pork - yummy!

There was some autumn color as I drove into the San Juan Mountains. My destination was Owl Creek Pass. My buddy, Chris, had strongly recommended the area for autumn color. He had shown me his beautiful photos with Chimney Rock, and other interesting formations, as backdrop. As I drove through Silverton I saw that the aspen were far past peak, so I didn't bother checking up Mineral Creek, but continued on.

Approaching Engineer Mountain on US-550. Autumn color is beginning to show.

Owl Creek Pass

I passed through Ouray and Ridgway to turn east on Owl Creek Pass Road on a beautiful, late fall afternoon. I could see Chimney Rock way off to the east. After driving up a wide valley, the route began to climb into the mountains and the road changed from dry & dusty to rocky, and then muddy with patches of snow in those areas that receive lots of shade.

Chimney Rock

Many of the aspen groves were gone by, brown or even leafless, but most were others still green or shifting into yellow. I stopped to take pictures from time to time. The late afternoon light was lovely on Chimney Rock. I drove over the pass and down the other side with the intention of finding a dispersed campsite.

Cold, snowy Owl Creek Pass

I skipped the first road just below the pass, FR-860, as it was too snow covered. This eastern side of the mountain seemed to have more snow, though there were clear stretches, too. As I drove down the mountain I could see colorful aspen west across the valley, but as they were in the shade, I decided to come back this way in the morning.

I checked out one campsite just before the Cimarron River. It was ok, not too muddy, but cold and uninviting. I passed Middle Fork Road, then turned up the East Fork Road. There were folks camped along there and those sites unoccupied were muddy or snow covered. When the road climbed away from the river, I backtracked to Middle Fork Rd. The first site was taken, but the second was not only open, but level and scenic, alongside the river. It was a little muddy, but the ground was at least firm. I set up in the last light of the day with rapidly falling temperatures. (I need to come up with a better mud control protocol for setting up to keep the floor of the camper dry and clean. Perhaps a plastic carpet runner cut to size would do the trick.)

My campsite along the Middle Fork of the Cimarron River with the last rays of sun on the peaks.

Friday, October 3rd

My campsite in the frosty morning

I took a short walk around the area where I'd camped, though the temperature was still cold. It had gotten down to 27º overnight. It was a nice area and there were a couple of other large dispersed sites just a little farther up the road. After my walk, I drove to the end of Middle Fork Road where there is a trailhead. There was one side road to explore another time, but no other campsites. I turned around at the trailhead.

I then drove back up Owl Creek Pass Road to look at the areas I'd seen the evening before. Such a beautiful area. I also saw the same unpredictable mix of green, yellow, brown and bare aspen groves, many times right next to each other.

FR-860 near Owl Creek Pass

I drove up the road just below the pass in hopes of photographing Chimney Rock from the "morning" side with aspen in the foreground. There were no aspen up this road. I did, however, see my very first moose in the flesh and tried to get a picture as he disappeared into the trees. I turned around where the road goes from unimproved to 4WD only. It was very rocky and my goal this trip was for autumn color, not rough roads.

My very first moose sighting, somewhat out of focus. I was delighted to see this guy!

I took another look at the pass itself, then drove back down. I took a number of photos in the area where FR-858, 861 and 863 converge south of Silver Jack reservoir, though those roads may be numbered differently on different maps. There are many dispersed campsites in these areas.

Owl Creek Pass Road down near the Cimarron River

I then headed north on 858, a.k.a, Big Cimarron Road, named after the river.

At the junction of Owl Creek Pass Road and East Fork Road

Roadside glory

The reservoir and campground was closed, but there were some pretty aspen by the closed, Beaver Lake campground with a little pond farther north - and a gaggle of photographers.

Pond next to Beaver Lake Campground

Such a beautiful scene. I had to include another view.

I decided to continue north along Big Cimarron Road to US-50 rather than staying in the area. As I drove down the road, I passed a number of trucks pulling long, trailers. I bet they were headed for those wide, flat campsites I'd just vacated. Big Cimarron campground was still open, but then the national forest ended in private land.

Ohio Pass

Ranch country along Ohio Creek Road on the way to Ohio Pass in the Anthracite Range.

On reaching US-50, I drove east to Gunnison, then turned north on CO-135. Just a few miles north of town is Ohio Pass Road, to the left, which goes through quite a bit of ranch country, then climbs toward Kebler Pass Road. There were a few photo opportunities along there.

Looking southwest at the West Elk Mountains from near Ohio Pass.

Once I got to Kebler Pass Road, County 12, I took a look at Lake Irwin campground, which I'd missed my last time by here as the road is unmarked. This time I was forewarned, examined the map carefully and found it. A nice forest campground with a pretty lake, but I had aspen on my mind, so moved on.

Lake Irwin, with the campground overlooking the lake. Photo taken crossing the small dam.

Kebler Pass

I headed west, over Kebler Pass, on CO-12. There were a few aspen photo opps and lots of people admiring them. I checked a couple dispersed camping areas, but they were well populated. I didn't want to go too far as I figured the light would be better in the morning for the area I was traveling through. Then I spotted a little, muddy track into an aspen grove with a nice campsite. I set up there in the late afternoon and walked around taking pictures while the light lasted. Luckily the ground in the grove itself wasn't too muddy. It was covered with aspen leaves of all colors.

My campsite in an aspen grove, not far from Anthracite Creek.

A photo using my 300mm lens showing an outcrop of The Dike formation.

Ruby Peak as seen though my 100mm lens.

Saturday, October 4th

I backtracked a few miles to photograph one of the scenes I'd passed last evening.

Anthracite Creek with Ohio Peak in the background.

I continued west on Kebler Pass Road. I enjoyed the scenery much more than my last time when it had been raining and overcast. I took the spur, FR-706, to Lost Lake Campground. I'd hadn't explored that way last time. Another small, pretty campground with a dramatic view of high mountain peaks reflected in the lake. I had a nice chat with a fellow in a VW Westfalia. There were a couple of dispersed sites along the road to the lake close to the main road.

Lost Lake on a glorious morning.

Continuing west on CO-12 there were some spectacular vistas looking across the patchwork color laid upon Snowshoe Mesa with snow covered mountains in the distance. As beautiful as this was to view in person, the photographs were too pedestrian to include here. Hwy 12 drops elevation here and runs along Anthracite Creek (which I later figured out, was the same water as I'd photographed earlier) until it and the creek reach the North Fork of the Gunnison River at CO-133.

The journey continues in the next installment.