Stammtisch, Bukit Damansara: 2020 Menu

When you step into Stammtisch, you'll spot a shimmering sign on your left, captioned 'Family Und Tradition,' with the word 'Gemütlichkeit' below it, conveying the three tenets that underpin our favourite German restaurant in KL.

The patriarch of the Svrcula family that founded Stammtisch is Munich-born but has lived in Malaysia for four decades, marrying a Sarawakian wife and making a life together here. Their sons run Stammtisch, a German reference to traditional friendly group get-togethers. In the 1800s, inviting someone to a stammtisch was a mark of respect and appreciation; today, this remains a means for social interaction in the countryside and some cities.

That communal cheer permeates Stammtisch's offerings, served in the spirit of Gemütlichkeit, the German equivalent of the Danish hygge, with warmth, cosiness and a sense of belonging as its hallmarks.

When we first visited Stammtisch in November last year, we binged on numerous classic German recipes not often seen in Southeast Asia, but we scarcely scraped the surface of Stammtisch's specialities. Nine months later, we're back for more, a full-fledged feast inspired by centuries of rustically authentic, time-honoured temptations that have fed generations of Germans.

Get off to a sizzling start with Stammtisch's hash belly (RM20), a mouth-watering medley of meat and carbs that the elder Svrcula recalls fondly from younger years in his homeland. This is soulful sustenance that a German grandmother would whip up for her ravenous brood - fuss-free and fulfilling, featuring tender, savoury pork belly slices huddled with succulent bacon, potatoes and leeks, with a light, house-blended apple sauce to gently enliven the ensemble.

Steam full-speed ahead with the Dunkel Beer Mussels (RM35), brimming with fresh mussels stewed in dark lager for delightful depth, brightened with tomatoes and spices for an uplifting sweetness. In the battle between white wine-cooked Belgian moules-frites and its German cousin, this might have the upper hand for a mellow tang that invigorates the mussels.

The Svrcula family are sticklers for quality, so it's no surprise that most of their ingredients are crafted from scratch in their restaurant's kitchen to ensure consistency, from pork patties to pasta-like dough. Many of the dishes work equally well for sharing or for a hearty single-plate meal.

If your most prized part of the burger is the patty, order the Fleischpflanzel (RM38) - Bavarian breaded minced pork, evoking thick, flattened meatballs, crisp to the bite and juicy to their well-textured core, full-flavoured with garlic and herbs. Dip them in German mustard, completed with the essential kartoffeln on the side in the form of pan-fried potatoes.

Stammtisch proves that German cuisine is more wide-ranging than many might realise. While pork knuckles and sausages are all present here, there's much more to a true-blue bierhaus than that - the Maultaschen (RM38) might look like Italian ravioli, but these heftier dumplings are all Deutschland, hailing from the southwestern German region of Swabia, recognised by the European Union as a significant cultural speciality. Stuffed plumply with pork, showered with soft, buttery onions, this is comfort food that we can imagine returning for, over and over again.

Stammtisch also recognises that a country's cuisine can't be confined to its current borders, that a millennium's worth of history has resulted in cooking that links communities stretching from Berlin to Budapest. So while goulash might be more typically linked to Hungary, Germany has its own version too - again, Oma might be pleased with Stammtisch's goulash (RM50), chunky with as much beef as a steak platter, sweet with paprika, served with spaetzle (the gnocchi-like egg noodles that can be found from Switzerland to Slovenia) and blaukraut (the German slow-braised red cabbage that we prefer to fermented sauerkraut).

Paprika pops up as well in the eponymous Chicken Paprikash (RM45), a dish that first earned international fame in the second paragraph of Bram Stoker's 1897 novel Dracula. Travelling through the Carpathians to Dracula's castle, Jonathan Harker stopped at a hotel in present-day Romania and wrote in his journal that he "had for dinner, or rather supper, a chicken done up some way with red pepper, which was very good" - he even added a note to get the recipe for his fiancee, Mina. You'll find few restaurants in KL that serve this blood-red recipe, but thanks to Stammtisch, there's no need to travel to Transylvania for a taste of this robustly lusty, greatly gravied chicken.

Whether you favour bread or rice, you won't leave hog-hungry from these princely porcine portions.

Grandma returns one more time for Oma's Meatloaf (RM35), a sandwich stuffed with Germany's mighty meatloaf-like hackbraten, layered with fried sauerkraut, punchy mustard and cheese in crisp toast, made for gigantic appetites, rounded out with fries.

There is one temptation here you won't find in other German restaurants - a nod to a Malaysian Chinese staple, crackly-rind roasted pork belly is paired with aromatically herbed 'ju yu zha' crispy pork lard rice for a Koln-meets-KL indulgence, heaped with sauerkraut and apple cider caramelised onions (RM30; only available till 5pm, so get it for lunch).

Of course, Erdinger, Paulaner and Franziskaner are among the familiar names on Stammtisch's beverage list, but the bar offers delicious alcohol-free takes on cocktails too - sip on mocktails like the Apple Mojito (RM16; with apple juice, soda and mint leaves) and Sangria Berry (RM16; orange juice with pineapple juice, lime juice, frozen fruit and soda).

We're still less than halfway through Stammtisch's menu, with everything from schnitzels to strudels for future visits. Many thanks to Stammtisch for having us.

Stammtisch

18-G, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Plaza Damansara, Damansara Heights, 50490 Kuala Lumpur.

Open Mon-Fri, 12pm-11pm; Sat-Sun, 12pm-12am. Tel: 03-2302-1190

This post first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com

Stammtisch, Bukit Damansara

Guten Appetit! True to its name, Stammtisch whips up hearty German specialities fit for communal feasts - krautstrudel to leberknodelsuppe, maultaschen to pichelsteiner, served in a setting where portraits of Chancellor Merkel, Beethoven and the Neuschwanstein Castle line the walls.

Meals here are unblushingly hog-loving - start with the Schweineschmalz, an ultra-creamy spread of pork lard, more decadent-tasting than pure butter, even though it's supposed to contain less saturated fat and cholesterol than butter by weight (RM15; one portion is rich enough to be shared by three). Follow up with a main course like the Hackbraten, house-made meatloaf that feels thoroughly traditional, rustically textured with pork and beef, complete with red cabbage and mashed potatoes (RM50).

Stammtisch's selection is sweeping, showcasing nearly 50 recipes, from spaetzle to sausages - the former (a pasta made with fresh eggs, flavoured here with spinach) can be rounded out with bacon, mushrooms, onions and leek, its creaminess evoking Malaysian-style carbonara (RM35), while no fewer than five types of the latter are available - sink your teeth into the Thuringer to satiate your countryside bratwurst cravings (RM45) or order a platter of everything from nurnbergers to bauernwurst.

Beyond Bavaria, the kitchen explores Bohemia and the Austro-Hungarian Empire with carb-loaded temptations like the Czech bramboracky, pan-fried potato pancakes with sauerkraut, sauteed mushrooms and apple sauce (RM19) and the langos, a doughy delight, Hungary's version of pizza, addictive for bread devotees, with bacon, sour cream and grated cheese (RM19).

Of course, there's no lack of German beer here - say Prost with the Grevensteiner (RM45) or complement the inevitable gluttony at Stammtisch with liquid indulgences like the German Mule cocktail (RM45; Jack Daniel's, ginger beer, apple syrup) and German Vacation (RM45; Jager, Bacardi, ginger, almond syrup, sour mix, pineapple juice, grenadine syrup).


Stammtisch KL
18-G, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Plaza Damansara, Damansara Heights, 50490 Kuala Lumpur. Daily, 12pm-11pm (1am, Fri-Sat).

This post first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com

Bavarian Bierhaus, The Curve

By EDKL Writer A.A.

Germany's southern state of Bavaria is renowned for its geographic and gastronomic gems, from heritage-rich cities like Nuremberg to beautiful landmarks like Neuschwanstein Castle, from its hearty meat-based cooking to more than 4,000 brands of beer. And while Bavaria might be nearly 10,000 kilometres from Kuala Lumpur, a sampling of its delicious delights is available right at our doorstep, at The Curve's Bavarian Bierhaus, the Klang Valley's premier destination for Bavarian cuisine.

Step into Bavarian Bierhaus and you'll find an authentic slice of the region it represents; within, the walls bedecked with scenes of German life might be reminiscent of the beer halls of Munich, while the courtyard fountain outside evokes the alfresco charm of the city's beer gardens.

The restaurant's culinary bona fides extend even deeper; it's owned by a Bavarian native who resides in Malaysia, with a menu crafted by a veteran chef from Austria, which borders Bavaria. The recipes are thus specific to the cherished, time-honoured classics that cut a swath from Bayreuth through Salzburg to Prague.

These specialities comprise soulfully homey, kitchen-made temptations that have nourished and comforted generations of Germans for centuries; begin with the Bavarian Dumpling Soup, the quintessential bowl of bread dumplings flavoured with bacon and herbs in a clear, light beef consomme - perfect for fans of soup, this is the sort of soothing concoction that Grandma might recommend on a wintry German afternoon or rainy Malaysian night (RM18.50).

For a further taste of tradition, the Cabbage Strudel is another solid starter, bringing together a warm, savoury medley of chopped cabbage and minced pork prepared with garlic, herbs and white wine, rounded out with garlic mayonnaise in fluffy, flaky pastry - wonderfully tasty for whetting the appetite (RM18.50).

It's impossible to imagine Bavarian cuisine without sausages - naturally, Bavarian Bierhaus has an extensive repertoire of bratwurst, including varieties like weisswurst, nurnberger and thueringer. Since we felt like something lighter for our visit, we ordered one of the latest entries in the restaurant's selection - the street-food staple of currywurst, featuring a chunky, juicy farmer's sausage smothered in Bavarian Bierhaus' own spicy curry ketchup, completed with fries (RM18).

Another protein-fuelled pleasure is the leberkase, pan-fried meatloaf crowned with a sunny-side-up egg, partnered with potatoes and the tang of German mustard and sliced pickles - fuss-free in its simplicity, fulfilling in a satisfyingly well-executed way (RM35).

Other distinctive offerings not commonly seen in the Klang Valley include the Bavarian Bierhaus' Gerostete Knodel, an addictive fry-up of chopped roasted bread dumplings with scrambled eggs, bacon and onions that would work well as a brunch dish (RM35), and the Spaetzle Hunter Style, Bavaria's beloved egg noodles blanketed here in a cheesy sauce, with the firm bite of the noodles made extra-textured with bacon, onions, mushrooms and leek (RM35).

To wrap up your dining adventure here, the Kaiserschmarren is a treat that's truly fit for an emperor - it is, after all, named for the nineteenth-century Austrian Kaiser Franz Joseph 1. The shredded pancakes come in a princely portion that's meant for sharing, with a luscious, souffle-like airiness buoyed by rum-flavoured vanilla sauce and snow icing (RM35).

Beer is, of course, the cornerstone of the beverage selection, form bottled possibilities like the Konig Ludwig Dunkel (RM33), Franziskaner Weissbier (RM33) and Schneider Weisse (RM33) and on-tap choices like the Erdinger Weissbier (glass RM24, pint RM33.50) representing the best of Bavaria's breweries. Prost, indeed!

While we focused primarily on Bavarian Bierhaus' more unfamiliar recipes for this visit, the restaurant is also well-respected for the favourites that most Malaysians associate with German gastronomy, such as pork knuckles and pork ribs, each served in various preparations with different glazes and sauces. We'd also return for platters of sauerbraten, the German beef pot roast, and roast chicken (additional photos here courtesy of Bavarian Bierhaus).

Many thanks to the Bavarian Bierhaus team for having us.

Bavarian Bierhaus

G.66, Ground Floor, The Curve, Jalan PJU 7/3, Mutiara Damansara, 47800 Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

Open Sunday-Thursday, 12pm-12am; Friday-Saturday, 12pm-1am. Tel: +603-7728-8269

This feature first appeared on eatdrinkkl.com

Check out the new Eat Drink KL official Facebook & Instagram pages. Follow us for the freshest updates, fun contests & more, at:

Facebook: facebook.com/eatdrinkkl

Instagram: instagram.com/eatdrinkklcom

Stay up to date: The Eat Drink KL newsletter is sent by email to subscribers every Monday; it's the Klang Valley's foremost weekly round-up of new restaurant openings, F&B promotions & other tasty tidbits. Subscribe to Eat Drink KL Weekly for free via this following link: https://confirmsubscription.com/h/d/5106C196432BB23D