A New Wine for Summer

If you are looking for a new summer wine, maybe something you have never tried before, I have just the thing. The Campo Pietra Winery out of Tuscany has created a white Sangiovese and it is delightful! We have all had red Sangiovese from Tuscany, such as Chianti or Brunello. Those are classic wines and great with red meat. But Campo Pietra has taken that classic red grape and pressed it off its skins before fermenting it to produce a very structued white wine.

The acid is medium. The body is medium plus. This wine has a lot of structure and texture. The aromas are crisp, green apple, lemon pith, wet rocks and a little saline quality on the finish. For all its structure and aroma, this wine retails for $11.99! It is a great value. Enjoy it with grilled chicken breast or white fish with a butter sauce.

This wine is available at Total Wine in Reno

By the Widest River Grows the Boldest Wine

What is more fun than trying a wine from a region you’ve never before tasted and liking it? Finding that wine for under twenty bucks. Often times, the lesser known regions will make excellent wines for years before the general public discovers them, and before their prices rise to match the quality in the bottle. Malbec from Argentina was that wine twenty years ago. Another lesser known wine that is also great with grilled beef is Tannat from Uraguay. If you haven’t tried it, this summer’s cookout would be a great time to give it a go.

Uraguay is just south of Brazil and just east of the center of Argentina on the Atlantic ocean. 90% of the vineyards are on the southern coast near Rio de la Plata, a tidal river that is the widest river in the world. The maritime climate, the ocean breezes and the moderating effects of the river all work together to keep the temperatures cooler than the inland areas of the country. Moderate temperatures are ideal for wine grapes.

Uraguay is a small country, about the size of Washington State, with fewer than 300 wineries, less than what you would find in Napa. But you can find some Uraguayan wines in Reno. Pisano is an excellent family-run winery. Their Cisplatino is a blend of 40% Merlot and 60% Tannat. Tannat, if you haven’t had it, is one of the most tannic wines in the world. But winemakers in Uraguay use processes such as micro-oxygenation, short maceration, low temperature fermentation, and oak aging in order to soften the tannins without losing the other flavorful phenolics of the wine. Blending with Merlot also helps to soften the tannins as well as add depth and complexity to the wine. This wine is full-bodied with aromas of black plums, boysenberry, spice, sweet herb and vanilla. It has high tannins, moderate plus alcohol and moderate plus acid, giving it great structure and elegance. They also make a Torrontes, a crisp, floral white wine with notes of lemon and dried oregano. And RPF, a pure Tannat that is very intense with aromas of ripe black cherry, ripe black plum, spice, kalamata olives, dried tobacco and rippin’ tannins. All these wines can be found at Total Wine. Most are priced under $20.

Uraguay is also building a reputation for the Albarino grape, the grape of green Spain, if you’re looking for a crisp white. But their Tannat, well, it should be the wine of the summer for your next cookout.

Decanting vs. Aerating; Is There a Difference?

Decanting vs. aerating are two words that people often use interchangeably when it comes to wine. While you can aerate a wine using a decanter, the two verbs are actually opposite actions.

When one decants a wine, the goal is to pour it as carefully as possible in order to minimize the amount of air that mixes with the wine. The purpose of decanting is to remove the sediment of the wine. As wine ages, the fruit aromas soften, the tannins link up and fall out of the wine (that’s the sediment) and the wine becomes more integrated, developing tertiary aromas such as earth, potpourri, or cedar. Older wines evolve very quickly when air hits them. The goal is to enjoy each phase of the wine as it is evolving, and in order to do that, one must minimize the amount of air that mixes with the wine. Never aerate an older wine. Never open it up and let it breathe. Decant out the sediment, then sip it, without swirling, and enjoy it as it evolves in your glass.

When one aerates a wine, the goal is to pour it energetically into the decanter and swirl it, in order to mix the wine with as much air as possible. The purpose is to soften the tannins and let the wine ‘open up’. It should only be done with very young, tannic wines such as a three year old Bordeaux or Northern Rhone Syrah. Syrahs from the northern Rhone are so tannic, some are co-fermented with Viognier to soften the tannins. As a general rule Napa Cabs are sold ready to drink as are most new world wines. And many European wines are held from market until they are ready to drink. For example, while Tempronillo is a tannic grape the reservas must be aged a minimum of three years before they are released and the grand reservas are held for five years. Many Italian wines such as Borolo and Brunello also have very strict aging requirements.

Most wines do not need to be aerated because by the time they come to market they are ready to drink. Only very young, very tannic wines will need aeration. And only very old wines need careful decanting.

Sauvignon Blanc; Testable and Classic

Everyone who has ever taken a blind tasting test, has hoped for a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Why? Because it is almost impossible to miss. The aromatics of grapefruit pith, green bell pepper, and nettles are pronounced and definitive. Other testable Sauvignon Blancs such as Sancerre or Graves, are not quite so easily identified, especially with global warming. Those wines are becoming more ripe and less chalky. For the Court of Masters, the above Sauvignon Blancs along with Napa/Sonoma SB’s are the only ones that are testable at level 3. But for WSET, any AOC or DOC or AVA, etc. wine is testable. Which means a Sauvignon Blanc from Burgundy is testable. If you know very little about wine, that last statement won’t phase you. If you know something about wine, that statement will give you pause. Because you know enough to know that the white grape of Burgundy is not Sauvignon Blanc. It is Chardonnay. If you know a lot about wine, then you already know that there is a small AOC near Chablis in Burgundy whose primary grape is Sauvignon Blanc. In St. Bris you can taste a classic Burgundian Sauvignon Blanc.

Of course, in Central Loire are the classic Sauvignon Blancs of Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Quincy, Reiully, and Menetou-Salon as well as Coteaux du Giennois. But also in Middle Loire, there are some AOC’s that break with Chenin Blanc and produce Sauvignon Blanc wines; Hout-Poitou, Tourraine, Valencay, and Cheverny.

And while the white grape of Bordeaux is Sauvignon Blanc, the grape is also found outside of Bordeaux in the Southwest region of France in the AOC’s of Bergerac, Duras, Montravel, Correze, Marmandais and Buzet.

In the New World, Sauvignon Blanc is classically produced not just in California and New Zealand, but also, in Chile, Argentina, Australia and South Africa.

Sauvignon Blanc is everywhere. But it is not always easy to identify it.

Analytical Breakdown and the Fluidity of Muscle Memory

Today in wine group we decided to do a comparison of three grapes; Gamay, Grenache, and Pinot Noir. We chose those three because they have a lot in common and can easily be mistaken one for the other. Tasting them side by side would provide, we thought clear differences. We tasted them blind, made our notes and then determined as best we could which wine was which.

According to the French Wine Scholar Study Manual, all three grapes have red fruit aromas (cranberry, raspberry, strawberry, cherry). Two of the three have floral notes (Gamay and Pinot Noir). Two of the three have spice aromas, (Grenache and Pinot Noir). The Gamy may have notes of hard candy. Grenache may have notes of licorice. And the Pinot Noir may have notes of earth, mushroom, sandalwood, smoke and tea. If the aromas don’t identify the grapes for us, then the structure surely will. Gamay should present a moderate alcohol, high acid and low tannin. Grenache would present hight alcohol, moderate acid and moderate tannin. And Pinot Noir should present moderate alcohol, moderate plus acid and moderate tannin. There are enough differences that discerning which is which should be pretty easy.

Before going to wine group, I played a few games of pool with my husband. My grandfather taught me to play pool as soon as I was tall enough to see over the pool table, about six years old. He taught me angles, bottom English, banking, cutting. He knew and loved the game. Even now, I still have to think through the angle. His words come back to me often, ‘Hit the ball and the rail at the same time. It’ll follow the rail down to the pocket.’ But once in a while, I don’t have to think at all. It’s a shot I’ve done enough times that I can just feel when the cue is at the right angle. I know I’ll make the shot without thinking about it. It’s like playing piano. When I hit a certain level of fluidity, muscle memory takes over.

Sometimes I put my nose in the glass and know the wine without thinking through the details, or analyzing the structure. The identity of the wine speaks to me loud and clear. That didn’t happen today for any of us. Maybe we were over analyzing, but these three wines are more similar than they are different. It was a great exercise. And as I tell myself with pool, the more mistakes I make the more I learn. But the real take away for me is, I really need to drink more Gamay, Grenache and Pinot Noir.

La Rubiconde, 2023; Pink rim, opaque, stem, mushroom, cola, ripe red cherry, strawberry, earth, tea, violets, roasted walnut shell, tart on the palate, medium plus acid, medium tannin, medium alcohol Grenache

Jean Paul Brun, Moulin a Vent, 2023; Pink rim, translucent, tart strawberry, cranberry, rosemary, margoram, violet, chalk, mineral, oyster shells, orange zest, black tea, moderate plus acid, moderate plus tannin, moderate alcohol. Gamay

Domaine A.F. Gros, Haut Cotes de Nuits, 2022; Ruby translucent, candied strawberry, cranberry, black cherry, rhubarb, tart on the palate, red roses, perfumed, black tea, cinnamon, clove, Moderate acid, moderate tannin, moderate plus alcohol. Pinot Noir

Cross the Champagne Bridge to the New Year

The region of Champagne has been making wine since the 9th century! But their reputation back then was for still, red wine. It wasn’t until many centuries later that the beautiful sparkling wine we all know and love was born, quite by accident. The cold climate of northern France would stop fermentation. With the spring thaw, fermentation would recommence. The carbon dioxide produced by fermentation had nowhere to go in a sealed bottle, but back into the wine. The bubbles were considered a fault and a nuisance initially, as the bottles would often explode from the pressure (as much as 6 bars or 90 pounds psi! Be careful where you aim that thing. Seriously, keep your hand on the cork.)

It wasn’t until the 18th century that modern Champagne as we know it became commercially viable. It took thicker glass bottles with longer necks and firmer cork seals. But most importantly, it took the King Louis XV’s decree of 1728. It was in 1728 that the king allowed Champagne to be traded and transported in bottle, thus preserving all those tiny, beautiful bubbles. By 1729 the first Champagne house was born; Domaine Ruinart. In 1730 Domaine Chanoine Freres was established. Both are still in operation today.

In the 18th century, Domaine Chanoine Freres was the preferred Champagne in the Russian court (yes, that Russia, back when it was more European and less dictatory). So the house made a special label to honor the Russian empress, Anna Ioannovna. They called it ‘Tsarine’ and it is still made today.

It wasn’t until 1929 that Domaine Mailly was established. It is one of the first co-ops of Champagne. Mailly is a Grand Cru village, which means all the vineyards produce the very best fruit.

Tsarine Gold has flavors of crisp Granny Smith apples and tart lemon with a creamy, smooth finish. It is stellar. It retails at Total Wine for right around $100 and worth the splurge.

Mailly Grand Cru has a rich, toasty, biscuit flavor with a fresh crisp, citrusy finish. It retails at Total Wine for just under $50, not bad for a Grand Cru.

Let the beautiful tiny bubbles of a true Champagne carry you into the new year. And while you’re at it, raise a glass to Louis XV who made this special wine possible.

Morgan

This afternoon I had the good fortune of meeting Dan Morgan Lee, wine maker and owner of Morgan winery in Santa Lucia Highlands. I’ve had Morgan wines before. I had a stellar Morgan Chardonnay last week that I mistook for a white Burgundy, so lithe and elegant.

Mr. Lee is a self-described ‘acid-fiend’. He sources grapes from coastal vineyards and picks early to maintain the beautiful acid structure that defines his wine style.

Today we tasted through seven Morgan wines. Some are not yet ready for distribution, but most are available right here in Reno

One that’s not yet in distribution is a stunning Albarino. On the nose is chalk, white peach and orange blossom. He used 8% new French oak that gives the wine just a whisper of vanilla without detracting from the lean, crisp texture of the wine.

The rosé, from Grenache is also not yet available. It has aromas of sour cherries, mineral, and lime zest. It is nothing but refreshment on the palate.

The 2022 Sauvignon Blanc is pink grapefruit zest and green bell pepper, also with just a hint of new French oak.

The 2024 Sauvignon Blanc is more aggressively crisp with a very pithy white grapefruit edge to it.

The Pinot Noir is cherry and dried herbs and potpourri and black tea. It is much more Burgundy than California. I don’t know how he does it. Must be the acidity.

The Rhone blend (65% Grenache, with Syrah and Mouvedre) has notes of forest floor, Cherry, clay, bacon. The new French oak that he uses on this blend is from the same cooperage that is used by DRC!

The G17, also a Rhone blend but with 65% Syrah, Grenache and Mouvedre, has aroma of black cherry, bacon fat, black pepper. On this blend, Mr. Lee uses a short maceration time to tame the tannins of the Syrah. It is old world elegant as are all his wines.

Many Morgan wines are available at Lounge and Total Wine in Reno. You can visit Morgan Winery tasting room in Carmel California.

It Feels Like Pop-Rocks in My Mouth!

On the eastern side of the island of Sicily off the southern coast of Italy are vineyards planted up the side of the active volcano, Mount Etna. Some vineyards are planted as high as 3300 feet. The wine that is made here is Etna Rosso. The two red grapes allowed in this DOC are Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. While the latter is similar to Mascalese in aromatics, it is softer in structure. The former is considered the quality grape. Often you will see Etna Rosso wines that are 100% Mascalese.

But what makes the grape such high quality? There are a couple factors. First, Nerello Mascalese is able to ripen at higher altitudes. The high altitude gives the grape more tannins. It’s also cooler at high altitudes. Cooler temperatures help the grape retain its acidity. Tannin and acid together are what gives the wine its structure.

Nerello Mascalese also comes from good pedigree. It is believed to be related to Sangiovese, a natural cross between Sangiovese and Mantonico Bionco. With Sangiovese as a parent, it is no wonder that Mascalese has such great structure.

Lastly, Nerello Mascalese from Etna is grown on volcanic soils. The minerality of volcanic soils intensifies the flavor and complexity of the wines. It also gives the wine a kinetic vibrancy that feels like pop-rocks in my mouth.

Al Cantara Lu Veru Piaciri Etna Rosso, 2020 Translucent ruby with an amber rim. Aromas of tart strawberry, tart red cherry, cranberry, orange zest, red rose petals, wet rocks, dried thyme, savory miso. This is a dry wine with fresh and vibrant fruit.

Alta Mora Etna Rosso, 2019 Aromas of tart cherry, tart black plum, leather, mushroom, dry earth, black tea, dried herbs, spice This wine has a lightness and vibrancy that makes it delightful

Beaujolais

(bo-jzo-lay)

Did you have your Beaujolais Nouveau this year? That’s the youngest wine in the world, released on the third Thursday each November, just six weeks after harvest. It is vibrant, juicy and delightful. It’s great with turkey and with ham, so great for the holidays. If you missed it for Thanksgiving, it’s not too late to have it for Christmas if you can still find it in the stores. But don’t save it for Valentine’s day. It’s so young, it really has very little structure, so no aging potential. It’s a wine that should be consumed by the end of the year.

The region of Beaujolais is on the eastern side of France, south of Burgundy and north of Rhone. The red grape of the region is Gamay although some small amount of Pinot Noir is also grown. The two grapes do have some similarities. Both are thin skinned and red-fruit driven. Some cru Beaujolais can easily be mistaken for a Burgundian Pinot Noir. In fact, the wines from the village of Moulin-a-Vent are described as ‘pinotent’ or Pinot like.

The quality of a Beaujolais depends on where the fruit is grown and how long the wine is aged. There are four quality levels. As mentioned earlier, Beaujolais Nouveau is the youngest with no aging whatsoever. The grapes are mostly grown in the southern part of the region outside of the 96 regional villages. It is made using a process called carbonic maceration, where the fermentation takes place enzymatically within the grape. This process can add flavors of candied fruit, bubble gum and circus peanuts to the wine. Then there is the Beaujolais AOC which is also from the southern region but often with village grown fruit. It is also young and fruity, but with a little more tannin and acid and less candied tasting. Beaujolais Village AOC is north of the Beaujolais AOC but south of the Cru AOC. The fruit is grown on granite soils giving the wines more structure and complexity. The wine-making techniques are more likely to be Burgundian (de-stemmed, crushed, yeast-driven fermentation). The top level Beaujolais are the 10 Cru villages found in the northern granite hills of the region. From north to south the villages are: St. Amour (a great wine for Valentine’s day just for the name), Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgan, Régnié, Brouilly, and Cote de Brouilly. Here you have higher altitudes creating more tannin, older vines adding more depth of flavor, Burgundian wine-making techniques for greater structure and more aging for greater complexity. These wines can compete with the Pinot Noirs of Burgundy for elegance.

Generally, the Cru village can be divided into three stylistic categories. The more light and soft, but still structured and complex are from St. Amour, Fleurie, and Chiroubles. The medium-bodied wines are from the villages of Juliénas, Régnié, Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly. The most intense and age-worthy wines come from Moulin-a-Vent (pinotent), Morgan and Chiroubles.

Of course, as the level of quality of the wine increases, so does the price. Beaujolais Nouveau can be had for under $15. Whereas, a well-made Cru Beaujolais will be in the high $20’s and up. It’s still $30 dollars less than a Burgundian Pinot.

Terres Dorées Moulin a Vent, 2023: Ruby with purple rim, moderate tearing, tart cranberry, white cherry, rose, black tea, brown stems, smoke, moderate plus tannin, moderate plus acid, moderate alcohol. Elegant and structured $32

Confidence

Though I’ve been studying wine theory and involved in deductive tasting group for fifteen years, I still have more to learn. It’s not that I’m not confident in my wine knowledge and tasting skills, but the world of wine is endlessly fascinating. There’s always more to learn.

Confidence de Bastor-Lamontagne, 2023

Currently, I am reading Message in the Bottle; a Guide to Tasting Wine by Tim Gaiser, MS. It’s a very interesting book. Tim Gaiser has figured out that where one’s eyes are looking while smelling wine can change one’s perceptions. The exercise he describes in his book is to focus your eyes down while smelling the wine and then move your eyes left, back to center and right while smelling. Notice any changes in what you are perceiving as your eyes move. In one of his talks that I attended, Mr. Gaiser had us do this exercise and then move our eyes up while still smelling. Try it and see what happens! It is very fascinating.

Last night I opened a bottle of white Bordeaux, Confidence de Bastor-Lamontagne, 2023. As I often do, I smelled and analyzed the wine before I drank it. The wine has a deep golden color with a silver rim and a medium plus intensity. The tears were medium with no evidence of gas and no faults. Aromatic intensity was medium plus, especially when I held my eyes just right of center. The fruit was ripe golden delicious apple, yellow peach and Meyer lemon. There were aromas of boxwood, honeysuckle, vanilla, toasty oak and wet clay. The wine was dry with a medium plus acid and medium plus alcohol. The body was medium, linear mid-palate and round and creamy on the finish. The finish was medium. The complexity was medium plus. This wine is 51% Sauvignon Gris, 29% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. The Sauvignon Gris which is a mutation of Sauvignon Blanc gives the wine the boxwood aromatic and more roundness. Semillon gives it the honied roundness. Sauvignon Blanc adds the crisp citrus. The new and neutral oak add the vanilla and smoke. The lees aging adds creaminess.

Knowing that there is more information to learn and more skills to hone is what makes wine so endlessly fascinating. I hope that I never have so much confidence that I am no longer hungry for knowledge.