Paddle Georgia, A Project of Georgia River Network – Weblog

Willow tunnels and moss-draped hardwoods greeted us each day of the trip. The schizophrenic Ogeechee can be wide and open in one bend and then provide just a narrow, single-file path in the next.

On June 17, three days prior the beginning of Paddle Georgia 2015, a short 100 miles from the starting point of the 7-day journey in coastal Georgia, a 21-year-old man shot and killed nine people at Charleston, South Carolina’s Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church. The shocking murders were racially motivated. The killer was white; all the victims were black.

On June 27, the day we finished our 95-mile journey, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled in favor of gay marriage.

Immersed in the Ogeechee River and disconnected from most media outlets for a full week, we returned Saturday and Sunday to TV, newspaper and online media filled with stories from a divided nation.

The Confederate battle flag came under fire (photos surfaced of the Charleston killer wrapped in the flag), arsonists set fire to black churches across the south; some religious leaders decried the Supreme Court ruling; gay rights advocates counterattacked.

From the peace and quiet of the Ogeechee we emerged into a nationwide shouting match. The change was shocking.

Taylor Morris and Chris Thompson lend a fellow paddler a lift over a cross-river strainer during a grueling 17-mile paddle on day 2 of our journey.

For the past week, 300 people from diverse walks of life—liberals and conservatives, black and white, young and old, rich and poor, gay and straight—had endured common trials and celebrated common joys. We ate together, slept together (in school gymnasiums natural disaster refugee-style) and showered together (men and women separately, of course).

We also endured every Ogeechee strainer, often helping one another over, under and around these obstacles; we paddled against the same tidal current in the trip’s final miles as we neared the coast. We slathered on sunscreen to shield ourselves from the same sun and jumped in the same river to cool ourselves.

We shared a common experience. The result: empathy and understanding for fellow sojourners and the willingness to lend a hand to a stranger.

The river itself facilitated the interaction. Bob Bourne, a Georgia Adopt-A-Stream volunteer and veteran of many Paddle Georgia events, made the keen observation that the narrow and winding Ogeechee made people interact. “On a big river, you might paddle past someone on the opposite side, but that’s not possible here. It almost forces you to interact with one another.”

GRN Development Director Davin Welter attacks Georgia Adopt-A-Stream’s Harold Harbert. The small, winding Ogeechee lent itself to stealth water cannon attacks.

And, so it was. There were more water battles, more rope swing congregations, more group lounges on sandbars. This intimate, willow and cypress-shaded river delivered a new level of intimacy.

I was personally “baptized” by “Hopper the Baptist,” the nickname given to Audrey Grice, one of ten students from Atlanta’s Camp Creek Middle School, who participated in the trip (she took to baptizing her fellow paddlers in the Ogeechee’s tea-colored water). In camp, I tented next to traditional families and lesbian couples.

On this journey, it mattered not a wit your sexual orientation, your religious beliefs or the color of your skin. We all traveled the same path.

Perhaps that is what is missing in our society—the recognition that ultimately, we all travel the same path. Each of us wants to live life freely and enjoy it to its fullest.

To be sure, a large group paddle trip down a wild river is not the cure for all that ails society, but there are lessons to be learned in multi-day, group adventures. There is power in common-shared experiences.

A riverside fish camp along the Ogeechee.

The Ogeechee, flowing through the heart of the Deep South, is like most southern rivers. At fish camps and riverside dwellings, it is not uncommon to see the Confederate battle flag waving in the breeze. Those that come to these fish camps couldn’t be more different than the average paddler that ventures on these waters in a kayak or canoe. It is a clash of cultures we’ve recognized since James Dickey penned his novel Deliverance and the bluegrass standard “Dueling Banjos” became synonymous with cultural conflict.

What we too often fail to realize is that the riverfront rebel and Hopper the Baptist dip their toes in the same river. If we wish to heal our national discord, we’d be wise to acknowledge these common experiences and seek ways to share more of them.

A wild river is as good a place to start as any.

Next year’s trip is tentatively set for the Conasauga-Oostanaula-Coosa Rivers in Northwest Georgia June 18-24. We hope to see you there!

And finally a few parting shots…

THE OGEECHEE IS BACK!

This young chain pickerel, caught by fisheries biologist Camm Swift in a kick seine net, was one of the many species of fish that turned up in Swift’s net during the week of Paddle Georgia. The abundance of young fish indicated that fish were reproducing successfully and Swift gave a thumbs up to the river’s health. Likewise, testing conducted by Georgia Adopt-A-Stream staff and volunteers pointed to a healthy river. Four years after a disastrous fish kill caused by releases from a Screven County textile plant, the river is on the road to recovery.

BEST “NUDE BEACH PHOTO” THAT CAN BE PUBLISHED ONLINE

The “Nude Beach Photo Contest” provided some of the biggest laughs of the week. Contestants posed “nude,” creatively concealing critical body parts. Some were more revealing than others, and thus, the Georgia RIver Network staff decided it best not to publish these images for the world to see. This tastefully done pose is courtesy of Patty Leighton, Jake Sandlin and Nicole De Lisle. It should be noted that no clothes were removed in the making of “Nude Beach” photos.

IT’S PADDLE GEORGIA 2015 ON THE OGEECHEE. WHO YA’ GONNA CALL? STRAINERBUSTERS!

The hero of Paddle Georgia 2015 is Georgia Canoe Association volunteer and GRN board member Vincent Payne and his crew of safety boaters and strainer busters. Vincent, along with Rob Garber, Keith & Lisa Haskell, Bonny Putney, Mike McCarthy and a host of other volunteers from the Paddle Georgia navy scouted the river in advance of the main body of paddlers strategically trimming strainers and sweepers to make a safe passage. Meanwhile, dozens of paddlers volunteered on the spot to safely move their comrades through the most difficult obstacles. This level of volunteerism gave us a glimpse of heaven in the face of what could have evolved into hellish situations.

THEY NEVER MET A ROPE SWING THEY DIDN’T LIKE AWARD GOES TOO…

In their young lives, Evan and Marco (pictured above) Newman, the sons of Donald Newman and Daniela Di lorio may have launched themselves off more rope swings on more different Georgia rivers than anyone in the state of Georgia. On the Ogeechee, they continued their quest.

THE PERSEVERANCE AWARD GOES TO…

Camp Creek Middle School’s team of 12 teachers and youth led by Joey Guinta and Alicia Evans. This group, most of whom had never paddled a canoe on a river, endured a Day 2 paddle that was the most challenging day of Paddle Georgia since 2008 when paddlers were forced to walk much of the Flint River after two years of drought. Other novices would have thrown in the towel, but this group stayed the course and before the trip’s end had mastered paddling strokes and were enjoying the rewards of the river. It was a truly inspirational group of youth.

BIGGEST ACT OF BRAVERY ON THE JOURNEY…

No one wrestled alligators or fished a water moccasin from their vessel during the river journey, but back at camp Anne Ledbetter agreed to hold a roll of paper in her hand to help Richard Aunspaugh demonstrate his talents with his bull whip. We are considering recruiting Richard as assistant sweep boat for Paddle Georgia 2016.

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Today was the final AM and pack out at Effingham High School who treated us very well.  One last load to the gear truck, one last breakfast of local farm fresh eggs and one last coffee at cafe campesino.  The Effingham County school staff and coaches and principal had taken very good care of us and we said our thank you’s getting off the bus riverside.

The 300+ paddlers settled into their boats, and headed down the river toward the historic Ogeechee Savannah canal, after hearing the history of the place at the previous night’s evening program by Dr. Hughes, who spoke of museums and footpaths where Sherman had walked on his way to Savannah over 150+ years ago.  The ancient bricks of the locks were clearly visible and Dr. Hughes was on site in his 18′ Grumman canoe to tell more history of the area and canal to paddlers.  The canal also served as a good halfway point for the 15 mile paddle an many of us used the boardwalk and benches for a great lunch site.

Along this stretch is also where many home owners had docks and pontoon boats and more than a few rope swings that Paddle GA participants took advantage of. Paddlers also stopped to enjoy larger sandbars and calmer water to swim and cool off.  We watched swallow tail kites, herons, osprey and other birds along with other river critters such as small alligators, sturgeon, and mullet.

As the week progressed, the layout of the river progressed. Every day the river seemed to have less tight spots, willow filled turns, and strainers, and more spacious, longer, wider sections of river.  On our final day, the river became widest. It was also the first day’s paddle that was close enough to the coast to be affected by the tide. It turned into a hot afternoon of paddling as we pushed on against the tidal current and wide river sections. We heard the whine of semi-trucks heading down Interstate 95 as we went underneath the bridge and saw our final takeout location just beyond the next bridge that came into sight – U.S. 17.

The early arriving paddlers settled into chairs river side with libations and cheered on the paddlers who arrived a little later.  A low country boil, cold beer, cornhole games and live music followed.  Much discussion of how this was the favorite Paddle Georgia river to date by a number of participants.

And Joe gave his final evening announcements.  Awards were given for Teva tans, youngest and oldest paddlers, etc.  And the always exciting final announcement of telling the group what river/watershed is planned a short 51 weeks away, which is tentatively set for the… Oostanaula, Conasauga and Coosa rivers.

It was an amazing time full of making new friends and seeing old friends as well, but now it came to an end as everyone slowly scattered back to the their trucks, tents, hotel rooms and homes all sunburned, tired and smiling.

John Branch, GRN Board Member

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“Rivers know this: there is no hurry. We shall get there some day.” – A.A. Milne.

On Paddle Georgia, one loses time. One loses touch with the world. One has difficulty accessing technology. Is this a bad thing? In fact, the Paddle Georgia experience is like uncovering a treasured archeological find beneath the dirt that we travel every day.

One connects with their inner child. One is reminded of the awe and wonder of the natural world and simple pleasures that surround us every day. There is laughter. There is camaraderie. All pitch in to help. We all connect deeply with each other. Conversations blossom with few distractions. Friendship are established. Intergenerational bonds are formed with wisdom passing in both directions.

This is what I saw on the river today:

About 30 participants and the Paddle Georgia Youth Program participated in the Adopt a Stream program learning to be citizen scientists and working to protect their watersheds.

Paddle Georgia Youth Program participants being thrilled by a soft-shell turtle caught by a Georgia River Network staff member.

Kids (and older kids like me) loving finding another rope swing on the next bend in the river.

A sign on a sand bar that says “Nude Beach” and paddlers taking pictures under this sign giving the impression that they might in fact be nude.

A team trivia game featuring river facts with exceeding competitive individuals.

This is what I heard on the river today:

A teacher, participating in the Project WET certification program, and her two kids calling a barred owl that they had found in a cypress tree.

A Youth Program participant telling me after she came off the river that she was excited to come back the next day and paddle again.

Legislators Alex Wood, William Ligon, Debbie Buckner being recognized for their hard work to protect the environment and then expressing their love for Georgia’s beautiful rivers.

Chris Manganiello, Policy Director of Georgia River Network, informing the crowd about our top issues in the 2015 legislative session.

Corn hole bags banging on their boards during the annual tournament.

Delightful shad jokes told by Charles Lewis, Cary Baxter, Jim Spotts, and Chris Peterson.

This is what I smelled on the river today:

On the bus back to camp, the odor of the paddlers was not all that pleasant and my word count is limited…so no need to go into that!

Davin Welter

Development Director, Georgia River Network

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I approached day one of my seventh Paddle Georgia with some definite concerns. The Rocky Ford Ramble was described as potentially having many strainers and strainers are never a good thing. We arrived at the Rocky Ford put in and were greeted by a sign warning locals about our presence on the river over the next few days.
One has to wonder what the regular local users think of our invasion of their beloved Ogeechee. We arrived on the last bus with our fearless leader Joe Cook who dove decisively into the river. I cannot speak for Joe’s intentions (maybe he was just hot) but this reminded me of a baptism and served as a symbol to me that we were all about to offer ourselves to the river for the duration of this adventure.
Once on the river I immediately noticed a number of sandy beaches which are coveted by paddlers as rest spots and served as a good omen for the day to come.

The banks of the river also contained evidence of this being a river of the people. No million dollar homes lined the shores, only evidence of past and present simple enjoyment of the “river life”.
The Ogeechee began yielding its character around each and every twist and turn during this day and while there were the promised river wide strainers in some places there were always folks there to help us navigate safely through the obstacles. What unfolded for the duration of the day was a panorama of another of Georgia’s “hidden gems”.

Fast forward to mile 10 where the outflow pipe for King Finishing was located. I did not know exactly what to expect at this sight but a certain angst filled my heart knowing that it is here where something really terrible happened to this majestic river. The actual site is easy to miss with only a sign and a mostly buried outflow pipe.

The case and its outcome are well documented but my thoughts immediately turned what the river would be like beyond this point. To my relief fish were jumping and the unfettered enjoyment of the river continued, a testament to those who dedicate themselves to protecting our rivers.

When our day’s journey ended a new face checked us off the river. Chris Manganiello ensured that we were all checked off the river as a further assurance of our successful completion of Day 1.

We then headed to the showers to make ourselves look “purdy” for the celebration in downtown Statesboro. Both of my sons are recent Georgia Southern graduates and I can honestly say our appearance was unprecedented and a source of immense curiosity for the citizens of Statesboro.

I for one cannot wait for day 2!

Mike McCarthy, Georgia River Network Board Member

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They say you never step in the same river twice. Paddle Georgia lead boat Cary Baxter would concur. The last time he was on the Ogeechee, the river was flowing at eight feet and the river was out of its banks spreading into the floodplain.

On the first day of Paddle Georgia, Baxter encountered water levels of three feet as he led a navy of some 400 paddlers downstream. The previously-hidden, river wide strainers were revealed creating hazards for boaters, but the sandbars that make for great play places also were revealed.

The combo made for a challenging day, but a day filled with fun. A few comments from paddlers:
“Great day on the river.”
“Much prettier than I was expecting it to be.”
“Does it ever stop winding?”
No, this coastal plain river winds like a snake through Bulloch, Screven, Effingham, Bryan and Chatham counties, and while it grows wide in places, it always returns to its winding, narrow ways. That’s part of its charm: it challenges paddlers with its strainers and twists and turns, but it delights with its beauty.
One of the day’s features was passing by the discharge from the King America Finishing textile facility. In 2011, discharges from this facility caused the death of more than 38,000 fish–one of the worst environmental disasters in Georgia history.

However, the tragedy resulted in a $5 million settlement secured by Ogeechee Riverkeeper that includes one of the strongest permits for an industrial facility ever issued in Georgia. And, it appears the river is on the mend.
Members of the Georgia Adopt-A-Stream monitoring team took samples along today’s 14-mile route and found the water to be healthy.

The paddlers took advantage of it, attacking one another with water canons, lounging in the cool water along sandbars and even floating down river along side their boats. When you are hot, the river is your air conditioning.

The day ended with a celebration in downtown Statesboro that included Canoe Tug-O-Wars in the Cedar Creek Park RV and Outdoor Center Tug-O-War pool. It was a site never seen before in Statesboro as competitors tugged in the shadows of this historic turn-of-the-century courthouse. A team of biology students from Georgia Southern Univeristy defeated a team from the Statesboro police to win the crown in the event sponsored by Ogeechee Riverkeeper. The biology students then took out a trio of seasoned paddlers from Georgia River Network in a challenge match.

While the tuggers tugged, Paddle Georgia participants flooded the town’s restaurants (and a local craft brewery) to take in the tastes of Statesboro.

After the party in Statesboro, paddlers returned to their campsite at Portal High School in the town of Portal. Originally founded around the logging of the area’s vast stands of long-leaf pines, it holds on to that history, calling itself “The Turpentine City.”

Among the wildlife seen on the river: a large brown water snake devouring a fish, alligators, great egrets, herons, ospreys, gar fish, pronthontory warblers (a brilliantly-colored dweller of riverside swamps), kingfishers and…homo sapiens (a common visitor to rivers, lakes and streams).

It was a typical challenge-filled, fun-filled day at Paddle Georgia.

Joe Cook, Paddle Georgia Coordinator

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Even though this is my eleventh Paddle Georgia, Registration Day always seems fresh and exciting like the first time back in 2005. My river friends and I look forward to this day with eagerness, and then, suddenly, it seems to pop up right in front of us. Hey, it’s Opening Day!! This day proved to be as fulfilling as all the previous ones, partly because we are able to arrive early and volunteer to help, but mostly because of the great friends we have here. 

The buzz starts early on registration day. At 9 o’clock, the sun is up but not yet able to fry our hair the way it will later in the day. The over-loaded cargo vans and SUV’s nudge as close as possible to the doors of the Portal, GA, high school building, and the staff begins unloading heaps of equipment and supplies. At the same time, the earliest of early-birds set up tents outside the school or shake out their bedrolls on the floor of the air-conditioned gym – a coveted place to sleep in this smashing heat!

The AMAZING (yes, shout it out) staff and interns and volunteers like my friend Mary McCarthy made quick work of setting up the registration tables with t-shirts, hats, river maps, and especially the boat stickers that are eagerly grabbed up to be pasted on kayaks and canoes tomorrow morning. (For a variety of reasons, I have not put the stickers on my kayak each year, and therefore have a full set of them: 2005 through 2015. I might be the only person who has an “un-attached” sticker from 2005….wonder if I could auction off my collection and raise money for Georgia River Network?? )

While the hum continues at the high school, two of my river buddies, Bonny Putney and Mike McCarthy, head out on the river with some other strong, skilled paddlers to check on strainers and mark channels that all of us will encounter in a couple of days. Meanwhile, my friend Dan Jones and I drive west to George T. Smith State Park to check out the paddling workshop. 

Once there, we meet two groups. One is a group of adults who are paddling for the first time or seeking additional boat-handling skills. The other group is a dozen middle-school girls and two of their science teachers from Camp Creek Middle School in Fulton County. Alicia Evans and Joey Guinta from the Chattahoochee Nature Center instruct the girls on how to hold a canoe paddle without looking like a beginner, how to crawl safely in and out of the canoes that are provided for them by the Cedar Creek Park Outfitters, and the importance of wearing a pfd that is properly buckled. Quick as a wink, they were out on the lake, and they soon looked very confident with their new skills. These girls are very impressive. And if they turn out to be as intrepid and cheerful as the groups from previous years, they will contribute to everyone’s favorite memories of the trip.

After a quick ride back to the school, I saw that lots of my river friends had arrived. One of the greatest joys and blessings of Paddle Georgia is the wonderful people who make the trip fun and memorable. Because I haven’t seen many of them for a whole year, registration day is almost like a homecoming. Better yet, it is just Day One. There are seven more great days to go. Lucky me!! 

–Dee Stone
Georgia River Network Board Member and Paddle Georgia Participant

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