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Archive for March, 2026

Everybody loves a good story, and on our Ebenezer-Brier Creek Adventure March 13-15, we shared some good ones.

Alan Stewart paddles on Brier Creek within the Tuckahoe Wildlife Management Area during Georgia Rivers’ Ebenezer-Brier Creek Adventure.

That’s due in part to the rich history found along these Savannah River tributaries. The Savannah was the first path into inland Georgia during the colonial period and as such, there’s more recorded history along the Savannah than there is on any other Georgia river. Indeed, by 1800, the three largest cities in Georgia were Savannah, Augusta and Petersburg–all on the banks of the river. Along the Savannah, there are stories everywhere.

As we celebrate America’s 250th birthday, the question of what stories are told and by whom haunts us. Do we squash stories of injustice that are integral to our nation’s founding and growth? Or do we own these injustices, grapple with them and strive to form a “more perfect union” as the preamble to our Constitution suggests?

On our journeys down Ebenezer and Brier creeks, we confronted these questions.

On Ebenezer, we stood on the very place where an untold number of recently liberated enslaved men, women and children chose to cross the rain-swollen and frigid creek in December 1864 rather than risk being returned to slavery or killed by Confederate cavalry. They were forced to make this choice because the Union Army, which they believed they were following to freedom, pulled up the pontoon bridge across the creek before they could cross. In the chaos that ensued, hundreds drowned trying to reach safety on the other side of Ebenezer.

Paddlers make their way down Ebenezer Creek in Effingham County. Ebenezer is one of three state designated “Georgia Scenic Rivers” and is home to ancient and massive bald cypress trees.

The incident directly led to the federal government’s Reconstruction-era “40 acres and a mule” policy for liberated slaves and set aside hundreds of thousands of acres to be distributed to them along the Georgia coast. That promise of a promising future was later broken with the assassination of President Lincoln and the ascension of President Andrew Johnson who rescinded the policy.

On Brier Creek, we visited the Revolutionary War battlefield site where Patriot soldiers were routed and ran into the Brier Creek and Savannah River swamps to save their lives. Many perished trying to swim across the big river. Most of the names of those who died in the battle and chaotic retreat are unknown. Our docent at the battlefield site, John Derden, made note that in this battle it was not imported British soldiers fighting Patriots. It was instead a battle between fellow colonists. The vast majority of loyalist soldiers in Georgia were also colonists, just like their Patriot adversaries. It was not a battle against a “foreign army;” it was a battle between neighbors. To this, I thought, we have been divided as a country from the beginning.

At night we camped on the site of New Ebenezer, a settlement of German Lutherans established in 1733 along the west bank of the Savannah about 30 miles upstream from Savannah. The preacher-leaders of this community were required to send daily reports to their church sponsors in Europe. We learned from historian/archaeologist Dan Elliott that the reports, once published by the church and shared with the public, were heavily redacted to paint a perhaps more pious and rosy portrait of life in the New World. It wasn’t until the modern era when the pastor’s original handwritten reports became available that a fuller portrait of life at New Ebenezer was revealed. It was not all silk and roses.

Unless all the stories are told, our real history is incomplete.

Historian, farmer and Savannah tour guide Dr. Jamal Toure joined us for a portion of our paddle down Ebenezer Creek and after the trip painted a fuller portrait of the “camp followers” tagging behind the Union Army as it made its way to Ebenezer Creek. Among the travelers was a woman named Betty who gained notoriety on the journey by cooking for her fellow sojourners. Each night she asked about for “Nan,” the daughter who was sold from her arms as a young child. Miraculously, after days of searching, the mother and now-grown daughter reunited amidst the chaos of the journey.

“We need African-American stories, Asian-American stories, European-American stories, Native American stories,” Toure said. Only then can we fully understand our collective history, he said. That understanding has the power to bring us together.

Josiah Eason and mom Lisa Williams slide into the hollow of one of Ebenezer Creek’s massive bald cypress trees.

One More Story

Among our band of some 35 travelers on Ebenezer and Brier Creek were Marion and Harriett Nelson of Milledgeville. Avid bicyclists, the couple was on a ride in the early 2020s when a wreck sent Harriett cartwheeling over her handlebars and crashing into the pavement. Harriett and Marion shared her story with us:

She broke her skull, ribs and pelvis and lost an eye. She suffered a severe brain injury, was unconscious for two weeks and spent five months in the hospital and the Shepherd Clinic just trying to learn to walk again. Shortly after she was released and back home, she told Marion, “I want to ride my bike again.” To which he replied, “Absolutely not!”

But, she kept insisting. Said Marion: “She’s as stubborn/hard headed as she was before the accident.” Marion ultimately gave in saying he couldn’t abide living a life indoors for fear of getting hurt. Before long, Harriett was back on her bike. Now they routinely ride 20-30 miles together.

Our route on Brier Creek included a 1.5-mile paddle upstream on a Savannah River flowing at 6500 cfs. Harriett was the first one to finish the slog against the current.

If you’ve ever afeared of that next adventure, remember Harriett. Never stop. Keep going. Inspire someone else.

Harriett Nelson emerges from a limbo beneath a massive deadfall across Brier Creek. After suffering a traumatic bicycle accident and severe brain injury in the early 2020s, Harriett has kept going. She regularly cycles 20-30 miles and paddles.

Joe Cook

March 16. 2026

Leandra Taylor goes eye-to-eye with a brown water snake perched atop a stump on Brier Creek.
Nathan Forde strokes down the cypress-lined banks of Brier Creek within the Tuckahoe Wildlife Management Area in Screven County.

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Feb. 28-March 1, nearly 40 intrepid padders set out for a Georgia Rivers weekend adventure on Spring Creek and the Chattahoochee River. In various groups, by night we made our homes at Seminole State Park and Kolomoki Mounds State Park and dined in restaurants in Blakely, Donalsonville and Bainbridge. By day, we explored some of Southwest Georgia’s most scenic paddling paths. Here’s some highlights:

New Discoveries

Waterfall over limestone escarpment on Bakers Creek, a tributary of the Chattahoochee River in Alabama.

No matter how many times you visit a stream or river (I’ve visited these paddling routes on multiple occasions), you are bound to make new discoveries. First, as the proverb rightly states, you never step in the same river twice. Second, when you travel with a group, many eyes make for revelations. I followed Les Duncan, Leandra Taylor and Joy Tabatabai up Bakers Creek from the Chattahoochee and together we found a limestone escarpment that created a most special, narrow, 10-foot-high waterfall on the Alabama creek. Totally unexpected. Throw in some beautiful Atamasco lilies and a basking river cooter along the creek banks and the short excursion proved a rewarding adventure within the adventure. But, the discoveries got even better…

Millions of Years

During our planned stop at Coheelee Creek in Early County, Georgia, we paddled up to a series limestone escarpments that the creek falls over between an historic covered bridge and its mouth at the Chattahoochee. The limestone and rushing water kind of stole the show, so much so that I missed the real treasure right under my feet. Spilling from the soft sedimentary rock along the banks of the creek were dozens of sea shells–shells that have been preserved in the sediment for…oh, 30 million years or so. Likely dating from Oligocene epoch (34 to 24 million years ago), these shells were a reminder that all of South Georgia was at one time the ocean floor. We geeked out collecting these shells and got left behind by the main body of paddlers.

Shells preserved in the sediments along Coheelee Creek in Early County, Georgia. The shells likely date to the Oligocene epoch–34 to 24 million years ago.

Peer Pressure

On Spring Creek, the highlights are the stream’s many freshwater springs. The creek is appropriately named. While most property owners prohibit boaters from venturing up the spring runs, one generous property owner keeps one of their springs open to the public. And, a beautiful place it is. We paddled up and admired the deep, turquoise-blue hole. There’s something about these springs that speaks to our primordial selves. Some contend that at some point during our evolution, we spent a large portion of our time in the water. Whether that’s true or not, one thing is certain: when you see these springs, you want to dive in. BUT, this day was a cool 75-degree day and that spring water is cold…about 70-degrees too!

Malaysia Marshall floats in one of Spring Creek’s springs.

That did not stop Lynn Thompson from hopping in. Once Lynn was in, the rest of the women with her jumped in one-by-one. Each leap was accompanied by screams of shock, excitement and joy. Soon the spring pool was filled. As no man had yet jumped in, I felt obliged, as trip leader, to join the fray. It was a plunge worth the initial shock.

If you haven’t yet joined a Georgia Rivers on-water adventure, this is what you’re missing. Join us and make some new discoveries.

Joe Cook

March 3, 2026

Here’s a couple more discoveries from the weekend…

Les Duncan has a close encounter with a Chattahoochee River gator (he’s not as close as it looks! telephoto lenses compress space!)
Lind Powers”chills” in the 70-degree spring water along Spring Creek on a 70-degree day.

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