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Archive for April, 2026

At this weekend’s Georgia Rivers Ogeechee River Adventure during our participant introductions Friday evening at the Savannah-Ogeechee Canal Museum and Nature Center, everyone put forth their favorite bird. Ospreys, hummingbirds, bald eagles and pileated woodpeckers were among the picks. Later in the weekend, birds became one of the highlights of our journey down river.

Yellow-crowned night herons were among the most conspicuous, but there were also swallow-tailed kites, Mississippi kites, ospreys, prothonotary warblers, kingfishers, great egrets and more. Paddlers used the useful merlin app from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology to identify (by sound) dozens of birds. Indeed, we saw just a fraction of the birds that were actually flitting about the river corridor. Getting an up close look at their beauty proved illusive. Birds are skittish.

A yellow-crowned night heron along the Ogeechee River.

Today, back in Rome during a morning walk, I stumbled upon a rose-breasted grosbeak…dead on the sidewalk. It was sad to see. But, it provided the rare opportunity to inspect the bird’s striking beauty. It’s black-and-white chessboard wings; it’s brilliant red breast. It’s compact ivory beak. Even in death, it was stunning.

A prothonotary warbler along the Ogeechee River.

Part of the joy of riding rivers is stumbling upon beautiful creatures, and birds, by anyone’s rankings, rate as among the most beautiful creatures on the planet. Encountering one in its natural habitat is a thrill. If we are lucky to get close enough to see the intricate beauty of their plumage, well, that can be a transcendent experience. Occasionally, it happens. I got lucky with a pair of prothonotary warblers building a nest this weekend. They flitted to and from a tree cavity, bringing moss and other material, pausing after each deposit to curiously inspect me before continuing their work.

I am not a birder, but I understand why folks chase certain species across the globe just for the chance to see one in person. In the midst of a world with so much wrong, a bird can remind us of all that is right.

Other highlights from the weekend…

Carolyn Phillips Morris of Thomasville, who grew up in South Georgia and learned to swim in the Ohoopee River, provided what is bound to become a favorite colloquial simile of mine. Her parents operated the Glennville Sentinel newspaper when she was growing up. The printing press was in a dark windowless room near the rear of the paper’s offices. The operator of the press described the room as “darker than the smut walls of hell.” That’s a keeper.

Doris Boggs of Palm Harbor, Florida, joined us for another journey, noting in her “medical information” during registration “very arthritic knees.” Arthritic knees or not, you’d never guess that Doris is 86 years old. The take out and launch in the historic Savannah-Ogeechee Canal was challenging, but she met it head on. One word for Doris: impressive. She was not the only participant born in the decade of World War II. Ed Evangelidi of Deltona, Florida kept us on our toes, as always, with his never-ending puns, riddles and jokes. Ed’s capacity for wordplay is only outdone by his capacity for intrepid exploration of water. Here’s a few Ed-isms…

Whether or not the fish will take my line is open to de bait.

The mackerel was fishing for jokes but was hooked on a one liner.

After the fish was hooked once, it quit having anything to do with one liners.

Blooms. The Ogeechee River’s banks were aglow with blossoming swamp spider lilies, iris and native clematis. Unlike birds, we can inspect their beauty up close. That was a treat.

In honor of Ed (and birds and blooms), there’s this:

What did the ibis say to the iris? I-C-U!

Joe Cook

April 2026

A few more photos from the weekend…

We crammed quite a number of boats in one of the locks at the historic Savannah-Ogeechee Canal. The canal was built in the 1820s and operated through the 1870s. The Savannah-Ogeechee Canal Museum and Nature Center served as our campsite for the weekend.

John McCoy of Roopville slides past a stand of swamp spider lilies along the Ogeechee River.

Emily Card of Athens floats along the Ogeechee River during a sandbar lunch break.

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We recognize the Garden of Eden as an unspoiled place. Such places are untouched and untampered by the hand of man. Today, there are few places that fit such descriptions. The Okefenokee and St. Marys River aren’t among them…but they seem pretty darn close when they are flush with spring–when swamp spider lilies, irises, pitcher plants, hat pins, rose begonias, spatterdock, water lilies and wisteria scream, “Look at me! Aren’t I beautiful.”

Yes, yes you are.

A swamp iris surrounded by hat pins along the Tater Rake Trail in the Okefenokee Swamp.

April 10-12, some 60 adventurers set out to explore these blackwater paddling alleys during Georgia Rivers Spring on the St. Marys. The Okefenokee Swamp is the source of the 130-mile river that forms the “thumb” along the Georgia-Florida line so our journey started there.

With low water constricting the swamp, we spotted more gators than I can ever recall seeing. They are the swamp’s megafauna mascot. They say there are more gators in the swamp than there are people in Charlton County. I believe it. Yes, they are fearsome predators, but as we drifted within feet of them, I was struck by their sheer cuteness. They forever wear a grin. They move slow, stealth-like, coyly like a cat. Am I strange if I find myself wanting to cuddle up with one?

Cute or not so cute? Alligators are the Okefenokee’s megafauna mascot.

The other stars of the spring time swamp are the blooms. We paddled past endless stands of tiny white hat pins that provided the stage for towering purple swamp irises. Brittle and dried pitcher plants leftover from the previous season gave way to showy yellow blossoms, heralding in another season of the carnivorous plants swallowing swamp insects. And hidden amongst the grasses were the spectacular blooms of the rose begonia orchid. Odd how brown muck and peat can give rise to such exquisite beings.

Note to reader: if you have not visited the Okefenokee Swamp yet, you must before you leave this Earth.

For all its beauty, the swamp is far from unspoiled. We’ve poked and prodded it for generations. Just recently, we almost dewatered it with an ill-conceived mine along its eastern flank. Georgia Rivers and a host of other organizations led the charge to stop that mine. Thankfully, the property is now slated to become a state wildlife management area.

But, man has always tried to extract resources from the swamp. Indeed, the main water route into its heart is a canal dug by logging operations intent on “draining” it. They failed. The swamp, left to its on devices, cycles through drought and fire and rain and just creates more beauty. We serve it best by not meddling with it too much. In turn, it serves to the St. Marys and the Suwannee rivers clean, pure water.

Our two days on the St. Marys–though lacking the primordial landscape that is the swamp–were equally inspiring, even with low water that had us zigzagging between shallow sandbars. Notable among the sights…

A bald eagle along the St. Marys River.

Bald eagles. We chased several adults and juveniles down river. Sadly, we even found one dead along the bank of the river. They are majestic birds, and like the swamp’s alligators, they are awesome predators…should they choose to hunt. They are as likely to eat carrion. I inspected the dead eagle closely. It’s not often you are afforded close inspection of such a creature. I confess I’m not drawn to them like I am gators. They are not particularly “cute.” A gator’s grin masks its piercing teeth; there’s no hiding the raptor’s fierce talons or hooked beak. An eagle is killing machine whose good looks mask what Benjamin Franklin famously described as a “bird of bad moral character.”

Redbreast sunfish. The redbreast is a highly-sought after game fish of South Georgia’s blackwater rivers. Folks love to catch them…and eat them. We didn’t see a single one. But, we did see their handy work…or rather fin work. During the spawning season, males sporting bright redbreasts (to attract females) hollow out circular depressions in the river’s sandy bottom. Once constructed, they strut about and hope to attract gravid females to their particular river bed. Low water gave us exceptional views of these structures. One stretch of river bottom looked like a honeycomb, a kind of redbreast apartment complex. Cue the Barry White tunes.

Redbreast sunfish beds along the bottom of the St. Marys River.

It’s been said that part of what draws us to wilderness is the thrill of knowing that there is something out there that is bigger than us…and can eat us. That’s certainly true of the gators of the Okefenokee Swamp (though such has never happened in the nearly 100-year history of the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge).

Given that there’s really nothing in or along Georgia’s rivers that is going to eat us, perhaps the real draw of our rivers is the sense of wonder we derive from visiting these places. Places where there’s a veritable suburb of fish homes on the river bottom, where blooming hat pins blanket acres of swamp prairie and where lounging, grinning apex predators can make you think, “They’re so cute I just want to cuddle up with them.”

Joe Cook

April 2026

A few more photos…

Mike Henry cuts through the fog and blackwater of the St. Marys during an early morning launch from Traders Hill landing.

Lena Rhoades, daughter of Jamie Rhoads and Colleen Smith, inspects a cricket captured along a St. Marys River sandbar.

Sami McKinney explores a spatterdock-filled backwater slough along the St. Marys River.

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