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Suggesting an estimated valuation of £6,000,000-£9,000,000 the auctioneers Christie’s left potential bidders at their 2022 ‘Exceptional Sale’ in little doubt.

wodeviolin

see: Christie’s [video]

‘The ‘Hellier’ violin [is] a rare masterpiece executed circa 1679 by the genius craftsman Antonio Stradivari, without doubt his finest inlaid violin, previously in the greatest collections of musical instruments.’ Presently lying in a vault somewhere in Switzerland, for some two centuries this feted fiddle resided at the home of the family whose name still attaches, a property which, unlike the Hellier Stradivarius, has never once changed hands by sale.

After well over 800 years, Wombourne Wodehouse remains ‘a remarkable oasis’1 just a 20-minute bus ride from Wolverhampton city centre, wholly private ‘and lived in as much now as at any time in the past centuries’.2 This prodigious feat of continuity is all the more remarkable given the regular lack of direct heirs: an unhelpful recurrence of childless owners, and various semi-detached squires two of whom met with romantic disappointment but would each find noteworthy expression through architecture and music.

see: Google Maps

While necessitated handbrake turns in the line of descent have several times changed the name of its owner, that of the house itself has merely been quaintly tweaked. Established in a clearing on the wooded slopes above the Wom Brook in 12th century, over time its occupants became known as the Woodhouse family…

… subsequent generations of whom created ‘the late-medieval timber-framed core of the present house. By the middle of the 17th century gabled wings had been added to each end of the south side, Edward Woodhouse (d.1688) the first of the family to style himself ‘gent’.’3

But this self-improvement came at some cost, and Edward’s son John would inherit an estate significantly burdened with financial liabilities. At the time of his and his similarly unmarried brother’s deaths in 1702 several mortgages had been raised against the property. Foreclosure soon followed and before the decade was out the Woodhouse ‘had passed to Samuel Hellier (I), a London brewer and the son-in-law of one of the mortgagees’.3

wodestair

The Field4

Though Samuel Hellier would establish the family vault in Wombourne’s St. Benedict Biscop church, within which he was duly interred in 1727, he seems to have had minimal involvement at the Woodhouse, unlike his lawyer son, Samuel Hellier (II) whose improvements included a new dog-leg staircase introduced within the medieval parlour, and extensive panelling. He also initiated improvements to the grounds, presumably still in development at time of his death in 1751, six years after that of his wife Sarah Huntbach, when the couple’s only son was just fifteen years old.

The continuing education of young Samuel (III) was overseen by a trio of guardians whose influence carried him to Exeter College, Oxford, for six years, much of which was spent in pursuit of his passion for music, especially that of his hero, George Frederick Handel. Proficient on both violin and harpsichord, Hellier had inherited a well-stocked library at the Woodhouse, the musical contents of which he was soon enthusiastically (and rather expensively) supplementing. 

His father’s collections also included ‘particular pamphlets at one time likely to have been considered subversive’, indicative of Jacobite leanings.5 Rather more pressing for his son, however, would be a festering conflict on the domestic front, and which proved to be almost a lifelong battle.

*

‘The few remarks I shall make [of] the old Lady are these, That she has a Heart as hard as a Rock [and is] of a most Tyrannical, Cruel, uncharitable disposition.’6

The ‘old lady’ in question being his grandmother, Sarah Huntbach, who presided over what would in time be Samuel’s maternal inheritance, the estate of the Huntbach family at Featherstone, ten miles north of Wombourne. Having come of age, Hellier had at last returned from university fired with creative ideas for his Staffordshire property, and also freighted with the armfuls of music manuscripts eagerly acquired during his student days.

Her grandson’s arty instincts, and related expenditure, were perhaps deemed somewhat frivolous up at Featherstone, for Mrs. Huntbach kept a frustratingly tight hold on the purse strings throughout her life. A life which, alas for Samuel, turned out to be very long one, Sarah surviving until her hundredth year, only eighteen months before Hellier’s own demise. Though the Wombourne property (and its mineral rights) gave Samuel financial autonomy he would always feel under-resourced, particularly in light of his noble ambitions for the estate.

see: Alan Terrill @ geograph

These ambitions were fired to no little extent by a remarkable (and contagious) outbreak of romantic landscaping locally, which would see the nearby great estate parklands of the Earl of Stamford at Enville Hall (left) and Lord Lyttleton at Hagley transformed with picturesque features and vistas, under the direction of Sanderson Miller and others. Hellier was keen to join in but, with rather less resources at his disposal, would take greatest inspiration from the schemes of poet William Shenstone at his smaller property The Leasowes at Halesowen. (These three estates constituted a ‘must-see’ mid-18th century Midlands circuit.)

A further practical impediment to the realisation of Samuel’s aspirations was the fact that he could not bear to spend too much time in Staffordshire, becoming increasingly allergic to its provincial mindset. “I am wasting the very Prime Part of my days in a Lonely Country House where I’ve no society, or such as my ideas cannot square with,” he wrote in 1763, now a 26-year-old knight of the realm (having been granted the honour when High Sheriff of Worcestershire the year before).

So began a decade of developments at Wombourne which, for the most part, Hellier would attempt to micro-manage remotely, finding the cultural soirees of the capital hosted by such as artist Paul Sandby – accessible from his Holborn residence – altogether more congenial. And it was at one such event that Sir Samuel encountered a young architect just striking out on his own after years understudying Sir William Chambers at the Office of Works.

see: VCH

Long before he vaulted (somewhat opportunistically) from ‘architectural nonentity’ to dazzling heights creating the jewels of Georgian Dublin, James Gandon‘s first known solo work was a modest, quirky commission courtesy of Samuel Hellier, who wanted a small but perfectly formed classical temple to his hero, Handel.7 This edifice (r) was one of a suite of features to be encountered along a highly considered, edifying amble through the nine-acre woodland behind his country house. 

A grotto, a hermitage featuring a life-sized animated figure (‘Father Francis’) and a Music Room complete with working organ were other elements to be encountered en route, the civilising experience further heightened by strategically placed epigrammatic signage (highly derivative of The Leasowes).

see: VCH

And to be seen in the distance from a grand Gothic seat (left) Samuel Hellier commissioned ‘a 6-feet 4-inch golden dragon weathervane’ to be placed atop Wombourne church.8 When the church’s spire came to be rebuilt a century on the weight of this object was deemed unsafe and it was relocated to the cupola of the large stable block at the Wodehouse…

… where it remains today unlike everything else from this grand project. ‘[As he] had to build on the cheap Hellier’s charmingly gimcrack follies deteriorated quickly once later owners took less interest.’9 Their vulnerability (to the elements and the depredation of curious locals) made them high maintenance; it had fallen to his man on the ground, estate steward John Rogers to project-manage, hectored by the squire’s weekly missives [preserved among the Wodehouse muniments but excellently digitised here] giving directions and demanding updates. 

Hellier also commissioned a splendid new organ for the parish church from London maker Abraham Adcock (promising to “Wombourne people .. ‘Twill make you all alive”) and it was public music-making which would give the Woodhouse a very distinctive edge against the grander stately attractions of Enville and Hagley. With an inherited and now much augmented collection of scores and instruments at his disposal (including the Stradivarius ‘almost certainly inherited from his uncle John Hellier’), Samuel evidently held ‘a strong conviction that music was a necessary ingredient in the life of the community’.10

Thus, additional to his regular estate duties, John Rogers would also be tasked not only with learning to play the organ (of which there were now several around and about) but also with talent-spotting amongst the locals (his gardener/horn player brother Daniel standing out), and organising tutoring and rehearsals.

see: Edinburgh Uni. Musical Instruments Museum

From London, meanwhile, Hellier was constantly supplying musical instruments and scores (by Handel, Thomas Arne, William Boyce et al), and handy tips to improve his little orchestra: “The principal Thing to promote Singing well is to keep the teeth clean, a maxim universally observed by all the performers in Publick.”

Alas, after several years collective enthusiasm for this distinctive aspect of life on the estate began to wane; another initiative, a charitable school for Wombourne’s poor, also foundered thanks, Hellier believed, to the mean-spiritedness of his local peers. And his ‘carefully thought out’ woodland walk would ultimately prove too popular for his liking, the behaviour of locals ever living down to his estimation.8 (“The Staffordshire People continue in ye Rough, uncivilized state they were in, when William ye Conqueror subdued this island.”)

Another among the sundry disappointments which crowded in upon Sir Samuel was his bachelor status. ‘He [had] experienced two fractured love affairs the second of which, ending with a horse-whipping by the irate father of the girl, marked the end of Hellier’s amorous career.’10 Unloading to a lawyer friend, Sir Samuel had once confided:

“I am in a state of Dispair [that] I will marry at all, Even if its a kitchen Wench or a Girl out of a workhouse. I am convinced one Hours Chatt with a truly Virtuous woman is preferable to a whole years enjoyment with a whore.”

In Hellier’s later years trusty John Rogers (and equally put-upon housekeeper, Mrs. Beech) would increasingly be urged to intercede with his ‘hard hearted’ grandmother on account of his declining health. “Pray inform Mrs. Beech she must not let ye old Lady rest, till She gets Some Money for me, my Physician, a Gentleman of ye first Consequence in London, Solemnly declares I must go directly to Bath, my Life is in danger, and nothing else will do any good.”

(There was perhaps a touch of humbug about Hellier’s pleading. “My appetite is exceedingly bad, so that I can eat little, or nothing, and often what I do eat I vomit up again. However a friend of mine has requested me to send for a Stubble Goose, which will be a pleasure to see them partake of if I am unable to do so. Send up your nicest you can get – not a rank Coarse Goose but one as is well fed – [and] a Partridge or two, or a hare, with it.’ A week later he reported that “the Goose and Brace of Partridges came safe .. very sweet‘.)

wodepickfordSir Samuel had long felt that ‘the old Lady’ could have been more supportive, and that the limited means at his disposal had stymied his personal and creative aspirations. Concerning the Woodhouse itself, James Gandon’s additional design for a new wing had come to nothing, likewise later negotiations with architect Joseph Pickford, after which he would write (↑) resignedly, “I suppose I must Drop all further thoughts of repairing the old mansion”.11

Even when at long last old Sarah Huntbach passed away, willing her grandson as principal beneficiary of the Featherstone estate, Sir Samuel still found plenty to moan about. Despite taking pains to ensure she had a quality burial (“I shall send a Hatchment elegantly designed to adorn the hearse”) he appears not to have attended the funeral, but wished to be “informed what people say about it, and how many Thousand faults they find, and what Torrents of uncharitable abuse they bestow upon me, the County is famous for it. They are without exception the vilest, good for nothing people upon the whole earth.”

*

“Neither my friend Mr. Shaw, nor any other person in the whole County, never once paid me [a] trifling Compliment, to wish me my Health, to enjoy the little addition of Fortune which falls to me by the old Lady’s Death,” Sir Samuel wrote to Rogers in January, 1783. “Probably I am too ill beloved and very little respected – but such omissions make a great impression on me, and I take great notice of it.”

But this perceived slight by ‘Mr. Shaw’ – the Rev. Thomas Shaw, 52, rector St. John’s, Wolverhampton, and Hellier’s lifelong friend and advisor – was plainly insufficient to cause Sir Samuel to alter his will which, at his own death the following year, bequeathed Shaw the entire Wombourne estate. Soon after, the fortunate cleric would formally comply with Sir Samuel’s stipulation that he and his heirs change their name to Shaw-Hellier.

wodeplaw

see source

Rev. Thomas Shaw-Hellier may have entertained radical change at the Woodhouse as speculative designs (↑) by architect John Plaw for a classical replacement of the old house were produced. But again these came to nothing and upon the arrival of a namesake grandson in 1802, Shaw-Hellier placed the estate in trust for him, granting own his son James rent-free residence for life. But following the latter’s death Thomas Shaw-Hellier appears to have lived most of his adult life elsewhere, a somewhat peripatetic existence dictated by his passion for the hunting field.

see: Britain From Above

His residences would include Packwood House in Warwickshire and a house in Lincolnshire before returning to Staffordshire (and mastership of the Albrighton Hunt), but not to Wombourne. Rather, the outsized Victorian squire purchased Rodbaston Hall (r), 15 miles north near Cannock Chase, dying there in 1870. The military career of his son, Col. Thomas Bradney Shaw-Hellier would also necessitate protracted absence…

… lessees of the Woodhouse in his time including the Hon. Philip Stanhope, Liberal MP for Wednesbury. who would host William Gladstone there in 1888. Nevertheless, the artistically-inclined soldier – whose career would culminate as Commandant of the Royal Military School of Music – initiated two significant bouts of remodelling which would come to define the house as it stands today.

The Field4

In the 1870s Col. Shaw-Hellier engaged the services of hitherto predominantly ecclesiastical architect (and ‘confirmed bachelor’) George Frederick Bodley. ‘A three-storey porch and pretty pedimented oriel windows were added to the entrance front, and bay windows inserted into the drawing room. [The latter] was fitted out with panelling in a free late-17th century manner that incorporated a full-height chimneypiece. The room survives intact with its original furnishings.’12

Screenshot

And soon after retiring from the military in 1893 the Colonel became an early private patron of Bodley’s former pupil, leading Arts and Crafts architect Charles Robert Ashbee, founder of the Guild of Handicrafts. Reflecting the romantic nostalgia of this movement the detail of the entrance front of the now restyled ‘Wodehouse’ was further enlivened; most strikingly (above, right) a cavernous chapel, with a tall concave gable, and a billiard room were added to the east.

At the opposite end of the house, meanwhile, some of the gables (↑) would be replaced with a lettered parapet proclaiming ‘Domum Dulce Domum’ (‘Home sweet home’ being the Old Wykehamist’s alma mater).

see: Bates & Hindmarsh

In 1899, to the surprise of perhaps even the participants themselves, the 63-year-old bachelor squire quietly married a not-much-younger distant cousin, Harriet Bradney Marsh, spinster chatelaine of neighbouring neo-classical mansion, Lloyd House. (Though this property was put up for sale in 1901 a modern map of the Wodehouse Estate extends to its surrounding land.) But this unexpected alliance has been characterized as ‘disastrous’ and in 1907 the Colonel decided to cast off a life of convention for a final chapter of unabashed fun in the sun.13

                    *

‘Taormina [in Sicily] was a town with a sophisticated lotos-eating immigrant population, a resort for artists, a resting place for tubercular Englishmen, and a gathering ground for homosexuals.’14 It was here that Shaw-Hellier now retreated, turning once again to CR Ashbee to build him a new residence on a virgin hillside site among the orange groves, with spectacular Mediterranean views.

see: The Ashbee

‘In the house Shaw-Hellier rented while awaiting his own villa, to which he had transported his old English butler Harry, he kept two pianos, a pianola and an American organ, all of which he played with a most erratic vigour. He was always giving parties .. of rather frenzied gaiety,’13 often attended by bisexual Ashbee and his wife Janet, ‘who had no illusions about the old colonel’s ménage, humming with beautiful Sicilian boys’.15

see: Brewery History

see: Brewery History

Meanwhile, a world away back in Staffordshire, Wombourne Wodehouse became the residence of his designated heir, nephew Evelyn Simpson (Shaw-Hellier upon inheriting in 1910), already a man of some means whose marriage to Fanny Phillips had linked two provincial brewing dynasties.

Suddenly the Wodehouse was a real family home, soon gaining a sizable service wing while the shortlived chapel and billiard room were now divided up into more practical domestic spaces. In 1915 the Gallipoli campaign claimed the life of the new squire’s son, Arthur. Following his own death in 1922 the Wodehouse entered into well over half-a-century as a female domain, home to spinster sisters Mollie and Dorothy Shaw-Hellier.

see: The Ashbee

‘Delightfully Edwardian, and retaining a taste for fast motoring,’ they had also inherited the Villa San Giorgio in Sicily (r) which they visited annually until its sale in 1950 (now The Ashbee Hotel).16 Previously their father had sold the ‘Hellier’ Stradivarius violin out of the family in 1911, after which the 18th-century music collections of Sir Samuel…

see: Google Maps

… later cherished and supplemented by Col. Shaw-Hellier, were all but forgotten. But in the mid-1960s the many instruments and ‘and two hundred year old music library of around three hundred volumes’ were rediscovered ‘in the stable buildings of the Wodehouse’, to the great excitement of musicologists.17 The manuscripts are today housed at the Barber Institute for Fine Art in Birmingham while the 54 musical instruments are on loan to the Musical Instruments Museum of the University of Edinburgh.

One Saturday evening in the summer of 1981, 84-year-old Dorothy Shaw-Hellier, who had occupied the Wodehouse alone since her sister’s death in 1975, made a fateful decision to drive the short distance to the estate’s walled garden to gather flowers. Emerging from the gates her car was in collision with a motorcycle whose rider luckily sustained only minor injuries but Miss Shaw-Hellier died two hours later in The Royal Hospital, Wolverhampton.

see: Google Maps

see: Express & Star

 

source18

The Wodehouse now passed to her first cousin twice-removed, Banbury farmer John Phillips who had already been managing the estate, visiting weekly…

… over the previous decade. His family now relocated to Staffordshire, the replacement of century-old wiring and plumbing among the early priorities of a rolling programme of renovations to the house and its ’18-acre gardens, full of unusual plants and blooms’.19 In time, the latter would be regularly opened for charity; John Phillips died in 2002, ‘three years to the day since the death of his wife of 52 years, Carolyn.’

wodeSirSam

see source

Since when the Wombourne Wodehouse has been home to the family of their son Henry Phillips who last year submitted a selection of paintings from the Wodehouse collection for auction including several works by ‘obscure but talented Wolverhampton artist’ James Shaw. Happily, these did not include his portrait of Sir Samuel Hellier (r), the man whose gift of this ‘enthralling place’20 so spectacularly benefitted Shaw’s older brother the Rev. Thomas, and whose various enthusiasms have latterly given singular historical resonance to ‘the little world of which he was its cultural engine’.10

‘Looking particularly pleased with himself in a dazzling silver coat with gold tassels set off with a lacy Vandyke collar,’9 the high-minded, well-intentioned but all too frequently frustrated parochial impresario… 

see: Anneke Scott @ X

see: Edinburgh Uni.

… would no doubt be most gratified to discover that there are still plenty today who are only too glad to (quite literally) blow his trumpet…

1. Thorold, H., Yates, J. Shell guide to Staffordshire, 1978.
2. Phillips, J. In: Griffiths, M. Wombourne what was, 1990.
3. A history of Staffordshire Vol.XX, The Victoria History Counties of England, 1984.
4. Montgomery-Massingberd, H. Family seats No.92: Wombourne Wodehouse and a musical theme, 12 Jul 1986.
5. Young, P.M. Samuel Hellier: A collector with a purpose, The Book Collector Vol.39 No.3, 1990.
6. [MS letter] The letters of Sir Samuel Hellier.
7. Duffy, H. James Gandon and his times, 1990.
8. Barre, D. Sir Samuel Hellier and his garden buildings, Garden History Vol.36 No.2, 2008.
9. Mowl, T., Barre, D. The historic gardens of England: Staffordshire, 2009.
10. Young, PM. The Shaw-Hellier collection. In: Best, T. (Ed.) Handel collections and their history, 1993.
11. [MS letter] The letters of Sir Samuel Hellier.
12. Hall, M. George Frederick Bodley and the later Gothic Revival in Britain and America, 2014.
13. McCarthy, F. The simple life: CR Ashbee in the Cotswolds, 1981.
14. Crawford, A. C R Ashbee: Architect, designer, romantic socialist, 1985.
15. Ashbee, F. Janet Ashbee: Love, marriage and the arts and crafts movement, 2002.
16. Ward Jones, P. Book review, Music and Letters, Vol.82, No.2, 2001.
17. Frew, C., Myers, A. Sir Samuel Hellier’s ‘Musical instruments’, The Galopin Society Journal, Vol.56, 2003.
18. Express & Star, 16 Dec 1981.
19. Spooner, K. The Wodehouse plays the generation game, Wolverhampton Chronicle, 28 May 1999.
20. Wakeling, C., Pevsner, N. The buildings of England: Staffordshire, 2024.
See also:
Perkins, M. Music in Country Houses of the English Midlands, 1750–1810 [thesis] Birmingham City University, 2021.
Morganfourman.com (Shaw-Hellier family genealogy). 

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For William Orde-Powlett, the 4th Baron Bolton, what had been a rather routine day attending to various civic and yeomanry duties in Northallerton and York took a distinct turn for the worse as he alighted his return train that October evening in 1902. It fell to the station master at Leyburn to break the news that his Lordship’s Yorkshire family seat, Bolton Hall, some two miles west, was presently ablaze.

Hastening to the scene Lord Bolton found the upper half of the Hall’s late-17th century four-storey central block engulfed in flames, promptly relieving his butler Mr. Wilson who had been supervising the salvage of significant contents. ‘At about 9:30 a great portion of the roof fell in.’ The estate’s fire engine and another from Leyburn directed their efforts towards the east and west wings of the house, which were ‘for the most part saved’.1

The cool light of early morning found the formal lawns front and back of the gutted pile strewn with family heirlooms. Elsewhere, ‘the unfortunate servants’ – whose bedrooms had been at the top of the house where the fire had started – ‘were plodding about in water in the servants’ quarters, some of the girls fitted out with men’s boots and coats’. And the cold reality dawning upon their employer Lord Bolton was that he now had not one but two Yorkshire ruins on his hands.1

boltoncastleview

Bolton Castle [see: Where2Walk]

Looming elsewhere on the (then) 15,000-acre estate, Bolton Castle (r) still ‘stands today as the most complete and best-preserved palace-fortress of medieval England’.2 The 14th century edifice was the stronghold of the Scropes until their male line expired, passing into the Powlett (or Paulet) family just after it had been slighted by Parliamentary forces in the Civil War. Among several curious coincidences in this story, the Powletts’ own mighty residence…

… Basing House in Hampshire – ‘the largest private house in Tudor England’ – had endured a similar fate in the same year. Finding himself the owner of two wrecked residences, Charles Powlett, 6th Marquess of Winchester (subsequently 1st Duke of Bolton) began a late-17th century building spree, creating Bolton Hall in North Yorkshire and another fine mansion, Hackwood Park, in Hampshire. It was to the latter, in November 1902, that Lord and Lady Bolton would repair, ‘probably for a couple of years, during the rebuilding of Bolton Hall’.3

hackwoodpark

see: Savills

And the family’s commitment to their Yorkshire estate would be ultimately confirmed in 1935 when Hackwood (left) was sold (the house being most recently on the market in 2023 with an asking price of £65 million). But over the years certain contents had made their way from Hampshire to Yorkshire, joining portraits – transferred from Bolton Castle – of the Scrope family…

… the founders of an estate which has survived siege, suicide and no little scandal for the best part of eight centuries.

Loyal and able allies of the crown on and off the battlefield, through the 14th century the Scropes would accumulate more land, and laurels. But Sir Richard le Scrope (created 1st Baron Scrope of Bolton in 1371) proved far too assiduous and constraining in his role as treasurer of the royal household, being dismissed by Richard II in 1382 and indignantly departing to his Yorkshire realms where his builder John Lewyn was creating a medieval ‘masterpiece’.2

boltoncastledrone

see: dronescApe @ YouTube

Of four severe, uneven sides with square towers at each corner 96 feet high, Bolton Castle – ‘a climax of English military architecture’ – remains an imposing presence high on the north slopes of Wensleydale.4 Equally notable, however, is the structure’s sophisticated interior: ‘For domestic planning on the grand scale, there are few mansions [of the age] to rival Bolton Castle, a defensible design yet possessing extensive facilities of internal comfort and luxury.’2

However, for all it’s uncompromising, battle-ready robustness, Bolton Castle’s comparatively well-preserved state is indicative not only of its superior build quality but also the happy lack – though they had their moments – of truly ruinous medieval drama hereabouts subsequently. And later history records  the ‘hosting’ of beleaguered Mary, Queen of Scots at the Castle by Henry Scrope in the last six months of 1568 as much the most noteworthy event as Bolton continued to pass straightforwardly in the male for some ten generations until the onset of the English Civil War.

boltoncastle2

see: Bolton Castle

There were no surviving children from the marriage of Emanuel Scrope (d.1630) and his wife, Elizabeth, but he had some illegitimate back-up in the form of a son and three daughters by a servant, Martha Jeanes. The entire property passed initially to John, who endured the sacking of Bolton Castle by Parliamentary forces in 1645 before succumbing to the plague the following year. His was the first in a sequence of deaths which, ten years on…

… would see Bolton yolked with another large estate some 270 miles due south.

In 1649 John’s eldest sister, Mary, to whom he had bequeathed Bolton, became widowed. She would remarry in 1655, to Charles Powlett, son and heir of the 5th Marquess of Winchester and who had suffered the loss of his wife (and their first-born infant) in childbirth three years before. Charles and his new spouse could also compare notes about the recent fate of their respective birthrights.

basinghouse

see: BritishBattles.com

Significant Hampshire landowners since the 15th century, the palatial seat of the Paulet family, Basing House (r) – ‘one of the great semi-defensive houses of its day’5 – had found itself an altogether more serious target of triumphalist Roundheads, being effectively destroyed in the same year Bolton Castle was ransacked. When the steam ran out of the republican project, in 1660 Charles Powlett was elected a dubiously effective Hampshire MP.

‘A very knowing and crafty politic man, he was much hated, yet he carried matters before him with such authority and success, that he was in all respects the great riddle of the age.’6

bolton1stDoB

see: British Museum

Powlett was out of favour with the court of Charles II by the time he succeeded as the 6th Marquess of Winchester in 1675 and – while he sympathised – would tactically avoid personal involvement in the hostilities towards James II by the unusual expedient of behaving strangely. Marathon twelve-hour dining sessions and regular nocturnal hunting expeditions by torchlight were among his various affected eccentricities. Quite whether the near-simultaneous building of not one, not two but three sizeable country houses could also be counted as such is perhaps a matter for debate.

‘Situated in one of the most picturesque and romantic valleys in England, with enchanting prospects,’ the marquess would select a virgin site within his wife’s inheritance, near the village of Wensley, to begin his building binge.7 Rainwater heads dated 1678 survive from this original iteration of Bolton Hall, which was described by an early-18th century visitor as ‘a very firm piece of architecture, almost buried in trees cut into beautiful avenues [towards] terraces, fish-ponds, fountains, etc’.8

Screenshot

see: Simon Hill @ Google Maps

 

boltonmap

see: Nat. Lib. of Scotland

Rather like Bolton Castle, the new Hall (↓) was an imposing blocky edifice, quite plain save for a balustrade and glazed cupola at roof level. Of three storeys over a basement, wings either side of the the five-bay centre projected south towards the river Ure. (‘The dramatic landscape changes which gathered pace in the 18th century largely passed the formal, geometric gardens and designed landscape of the Bolton estate by, probably due to the family not living there for any length of time during much of that century.’9)

boltonsandby

source10

And barely had this Yorkshire scheme reached completion before the attention of the marquess turned elsewhere. ‘A keen huntsman, [he] now commenced ‘the large, noble house at Abbotstone [near Alresford] as a convenient hawking seat, built after the Italian manner [and] enriched by a great deal of most excellent carving by Grinling Gibbons. But it was never fully completed,’ unlike a second 1680s Hampshire project, the classical reimagining of Hackwood (↓), formerly an Elizabethan hunting lodge… 

Screenshot

source10

… not far from the site of ruined Basing House. ‘This elegant, capacious mansion situated in a fine extensive park, about 8 miles in circumference,’10 would soon become the preferred seat of subsequent generations of Powletts, whose status would be further elevated thanks to the family’s very active promotion of the Glorious Revolution.

With the full support of the marquess, it was his namesake son and heir who ‘proposed in parliament the motion that William and Mary assume the crown, and was the bearer of the orb at their coronation’ in 1689, his father having been created 1st Duke of Bolton two days earlier.11 The second duke succeeded in February 1699, dying himself in 1722 before his 36-year-old heir, Charles (3), though married for almost a decade, had shown any real signs of settling down.

A fast, wilful figure from his youth, Charles Powlett, the future 3rd duke, had married a naive and soon to be haplessly humiliated heiress, Anne, daughter of the 3rd Earl of Carbery, in 1713. ‘The newly-wed Marchioness of Winchester was informed by her husband that he never had been nor ever would be faithful to her. He was as good as his word, entertaining a string of lovers, and Anne accepted the situation with sadness.’12

A Scene from 'The Beggar's Opera' VI, 1731. William Hogarth 1697-1764. Tate

see: Yale Centre for British Art

It was a trip to the theatre in 1728 to see the hottest ticket in town, John Gay’s The Beggar’s Opera, that would at last see the now 3rd duke’s life gain a (still somewhat irregular) semblance of domestic stability. For Powlett would become quickly enamoured of the young actress getting her big break in the role of Polly Peachum, his undisguised pursuit of Lavinia Fenton – remember the name –

.. night after night from his stage side box seat, captured (far right) in artist William Hogarth’s depiction of the landmark production. Though twenty-three years his junior, Miss Fenton soon succumbed to the duke’s ardent blandishments, accepting his offer to give up the stage in exchange for financial security, a smart townhouse in Mayfair and an unabashed life as his official mistress. The couple remained together for over 25 years, the duke at least having the decency not to wed Lavinia until after his first wife Anne’s death in 1751, some three years before his own demise.

boltontower

see: Anthony Harrison @ geograph

Much of their time had been spent at Hackwood Park but surviving from this era on the Bolton Hall estate is a stone folly, Polly Peachum’s Tower (restored in recent times and repurposed as a hospitality room for shoot days on the Yorkshire estate). None of the duke’s three sons born to Lavinia Fenton were eligible to inherit either property, the dukedom and entailed estates being enjoyed by Charles’s brother, Harry, for just five years until his death in 1759. And the fourth duke’s tragic successor lasted only a year longer than his father as squire of the Bolton estates, but would make his mark and alter their destiny.

*

The Duke of Bolton the other morning – nobody knows why or wherefore – sat himself down upon the floor in his dressing-room, and shot himself through the head.’ Thus did Horace Walpole record the suicide of the 47-year-old 5th duke of Bolton at his Grosvenor Square townhouse in July 1765. This catastrophic cloud of melancholia was the polar opposite of the expression of optimism represented by Charles’ further improvements to the house at Hackwood Park.

Hackwood_Saloon

see: Christie’s

Soon after he had succeeded, the 5th duke ‘made alterations to the central block of [the Hampshire mansion], bedecking the new-modelled saloon with the Grinling Gibbons carvings and other spoils of Abbotstone’, which was demolished.5 Plans by architect John Vardy survive for a pair of classical gate lodges and various other new structures: ‘There is no trace of these buildings, but very likely Powlett was still contemplating…

… their erection when death overtook him. He was a bachelor, but had a daughter whose future he took pains to assure.’5 Jean Mary was the product of Charles’s enduring relationship with ‘his housekeeper’, Mrs. Mary Banks Brown, with whom he had lived openly. But, with his only brother Harry also being the father of daughters, and the dukedom thus facing extinction, Powlett willed that the family estates should revert to Jean Mary after the lifetime tenancy of the 6th duke.

bolton6thduke

see: The Met

A court-martial for questionable decision making as captain of the Harfleur was a low point of Harry Powlett’s chequered naval career (which had been ‘kept aloft by family connections’).13 But the commitment demonstrated through this period by his ship’s surgeon Thomas Maude saw the latter now installed at Bolton Hall as resident steward of the 6th duke’s Yorkshire estate. And the family’s favouring of their Hampshire property through much of the 18th century was all too evident towards its end, one visitor finding the Hall (and also its occupant) to be in a state of decline.

‘Bolton hall is a gloomy, deserted seat of the Duke of Bolton, all in wild neglect and disorder. I was joined by a formal old gentleman, who offer’d his services of attendance and information: neither of which he was capable of giving, having lately suffer’d a paralytic attack. I had to lead him about. There is now not a bed in the best rooms that could be slept in.’14

boltonbatoni

see: Sotheby’s

And the situation didn’t change greatly upon the death of the last duke in 1794 when the Powlett estates reverted to Jean, the 5th duke’s illegitimate daughter who had since become Mrs. Thomas Orde. Of Northumberland gentry, Thomas Orde had done the Grand Tour as a young man, having his likeness captured by Batoni (left) as would so many when in Rome. Back in England, Thomas married Jean Mary in 1774 and was elected to Westminster four years later. A diligent parliamentarian, Orde rose to become useful to Prime Minister William Pitt as Chief Secretary for Ireland until nervous exhaustion decided him to quit.

boltonmirthAway from politics Orde was proficient sketcher, and a patron of the artist George Romney from whom, in addition to family portraits, he would commission several large-scale works, including ‘Mirth’ (r) and ‘Melancholy‘ (both latterly berthed at Bolton until being sold in 1969).15 Having come into the substantial Powlett estates in the right of his wife, Orde would add her family name by royal licence in 1795. But despite being created first Baron Bolton of Bolton Castle three years later, Orde-Powlett again lived mainly in Hampshire, buried at Old Basing in 1807. His heir, William, shared this preference, engaging Samuel Wyatt to make further alterations at Hackwood. But this era would at last also see improvements at neglected Bolton Hall, which now became home to the second baron’s younger brother, Thomas.

boltonorgan

see: Historic England

Architect Lewis Wyatt, having picked up the baton from his late uncle Samuel at Hackwood Park, would also be enlisted by Thomas Orde-Powlett to provide low three-bay extensions, with substantial terminating pavilions, east and west of the original main block of Bolton Hall (↓). A viewing tower was also created to the east. And the revitalised house now benefitted from the export from Hampshire of some surplus furnishings…

boltoncupola

see: Historic England

 

boltonbook

see: Sotheby’s

… notably an ‘important George III architectural bookcase (r), attributed to the Vardy brothers’, which was shipped by canal thence up the east coast to Yorkshire in 1816. Lord Bolton was also busy offloading Hampshire acres at this time, the principal beneficiary being banker Alexander Baring who purchased the Abbotstone estate for £64,200 in 1818, and a further 2,200 acres two years later. ‘He nevertheless remained a great landed magnate in both Hampshire and the North Riding after these sales,’ still with a combined holding of almost 30,000 acres.16

Something the second baron (‘a shy, if not an eccentric, man’) lacked, however, was offspring, being succeeded in 1850 by his nephew, William, the eldest surviving son of Thomas Orde-Powlett of Bolton Hall. The family focus was now firmly back in Yorkshire, the third Lord Bolton and his countess Letitia occupying the big house while his mother took up residence at Wensley Hall (↓), a handsome estate property at the opposite end of the kilometre-long east drive. And Wensley Hall also provided immediate refuge for the fourth baron (who succeeded 1895)…

boltonwensley

see: Google Maps

… in those first days following the catastrophic 1902 inferno at Bolton Hall, which Orde-Powlett quickly resolved to faithfully resurrect.

boltonfire

‘A prolific English ecclesiastical architect who specialised in building and restoring churches,’ Durham-based Charles Hodgson Fowler was perhaps an unlikely choice for the job (possibly recommended by the then local MP for Richmondshire, fellow Conservative John Hutton, whose Soberge Hall numbered among Fowler’s few country house projects). Bolton Hall’s robustly plain exterior soon rose again.

boltoncolourpcard

Within, a late-17th century style staircase, decorative moulded ceilings (below), and Grinling Gibbons-style panelling brought from Hackwood Park, continued the retrospective emphasis.

boltonceiling

source18

boltonstair

‘The interiors [remain] impressive and on the piano nobile at least suitably grand. Surprisingly, the house was furthered enlarged during the rebuild with the addition of a substantial new wing to the west, to principally house a vast Billiard Room [above, far left].’17

Further internal reordering followed the succession of William, 5th Baron Bolton, in 1922; he later reinforced the Orde-Powletts’ commitment to Yorkshire with the sale of Hackwood Park to newspaper magnate Lord Camrose in 1935. Having lost his 21-year-old namesake heir in the Great War, it was Williams’s younger son Nigel who succeeded in 1944.

bolton6thBB

see: NPG

boltoncastAs national Chief Acquisitions Officer tasked with sourcing timber for the Second World War effort, the 6th baron ‘was especially severe in the inroads he made into his own woods’ on his Yorkshire estate.19 Lord Bolton died in 1963. Earlier in his life Nigel Orde-Powlett had published some (now very hard to find) works of popular fiction. But even he would likely have rejected as ridiculously far-fetched what would become the improbable final chapter in the romantic life of his eldest son and heir.

As attentive readers will recall, in the early Georgian era the 3rd Duke of Bolton effectively abandoned his wife for the young star of The Beggar’s Opera, Lavinia Fenton. Centuries on, in an extraordinary twist, his sporting, now twice-divorced descendant Richard Orde-Powlett, 7th Baron Bolton, placed the following notice in the personal columns of The Times newspaper published July 26, 1991:

boltonlav

“We first met when I sold him a horse about three years ago, I am not the cause of the break-up [of his last marriage]” insisted the coincidentally named ex-wife of ‘a prosperous Reading building contractor’. (“If that is what she is saying, let her say it. I have no comment to make,” remarked her predecessor.)20

And things were no less lively on the other side of the estate where Lord Bolton’s eldest son, Harry (from his first marriage to Christine Weld-Forester, daughter of the 7th Baron Forester of Willey Park, Shropshire) had been handed, from the age of 20, responsibility for crumbling Bolton Castle.

boltonstrife

Yorkshire Post 14 July 1992

“Tonnes of stonework were supported by next to nothing,”21 the future 8th baron recalled in 1995 at the culmination of a 20-year restoration project, which had cost ‘some £600,000 of his own money’ and tested not only his accountant’s forbearance but also that of various heritage bodies along the way.22

“We were astounded at the arrogance. He has flouted the planning laws and should be locked up in his own dungeons,” boomed the chairman of the Yorkshire Dales National Park committee, aghast at the DIY reconstitution of the medieval gardens of the Castle.23 Orde-Powlett had been moved to take this part of the project forward by himself after disputing with English Heritage (more specifically their contractors) over the costings of Phase I.

But his and wife Phillipa‘s approach and commitment to authenticity at the now thriving attraction found admirers: ‘Bolton Castle is everything English Heritage castles are not allowed to be – damp, smelly, rambling, romantic.’24 (Many of those adjectives could also apply to the precarious circumstances surrounding another contemporaneous endeavour, Harry Orde-Powlett’s positively Boys Own initiative helming freelance aid convoys to the wretched populations of war zones in Bosnia, Croatia and central Africa.) Meanwhile, back at Bolton Hall…

boltonsanswing

see: T Eyre @ geograph

… the heritage lobby proved more persuasive in respect of his father’s plan to demolish the west wing (citing dry rot, its counterpart having gone decades before), a scheme which would be abandoned in spring 1992. “English Heritage thought that part of the Hall was too important. They say it is and that’s that,” the baron’s agent conceded.25

In contrast, the present-day occupants of Bolton Hall have encountered little impediment to their intentions to both reorder the interior of the house and to revive elements of its original parkland setting.

The 8th Lord Bolton died in 2023 having made way at the Hall for son Thomas, his wife Katie and their young family several years earlier. ‘They are passionate about the house and want it to continue to thrive as a family home rather than feel more like a museum where only a handful of rooms are used.’ Inheriting a superfluity of staircases, one of the four was identified for removal (in a scheme which received planning permission in 2022), replaced by a screen of Ionic columns, ‘allowing more natural light and easier circulation in that part of the house’.17

boltonaxial

see: Michael Clark @ Google Maps

More visibly, walkers in this stretch of Wensleydale will witness the reinstatement of ‘the axial [Hall] approach of the 17th and 18th centuries. The original avenue is clearly recorded on historic plans with a remarkable sightline that ran north-south from one ridge of the valley to the other through the centre of the house and the Lord’s Bridge (↓). Few Baroque landscapes on this scale survive.’26

boltonlords

see: D Twigg @ geograph

 

boltonCLife

see: Country Life

The new avenue of limes and oaks enclosed by hawthorn hedging “will connect two SSSI wildflower meadows, which are about 2km apart,” the 9th Lord Bolton explained earlier this year (r). ‘At the head of the avenue it is proposed to curve a carriage sweep up to either side of the Edwardian balustrade. The design [will] allow a clear view down the historic avenue to the bridge, [from where] the public can look back to see the hall framed at its end.’26 After 800 years there is indeed plenty here to look back upon…

boltondrive

see: Google Maps

[360° south front panorama 2024][Archives][Bolton Castle]

1. Darlington & Stockton Times, 18 Oct 1902.
2. Emery, A. Greater medieval houses of England & Wales 1300-1500, Vol.1: Northern England, 1996.
3. Craven Herald, 28 Nov 1902.
4. Greville, J., Pevsner, N. Buildings of England: Yorkshire North Riding, 2023.
5. Avary Tipping, H. Hackwood Park, Hampshire I/II, Country Life 17/24 May, 1913.
6. Burnet,Bishop. Bishop Burnet’s history of his own time, Vol.4, 1833.
7. Whellan, T. History and topography of the City of York & the North Riding of Yorkshire, 1857.
8. Hatcher, J. Richmondshire architecture, 1990.
9. Hepworth, V. The gardens and designed landscape of Bolton Hall, Wensleydale, 2023.
10. Sandby, P. A collection of 150 select views of England, Scotland and Ireland, 1781.
11. Kilburn, M. Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, 2004.
12. Major, J., Murden, S. A history of the Dukes of Bolton 1600-1815: Love loyalty, 2020.
13. Crimmin, P.K. Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, 2004.
14. Byng, Hon. J. The Torrington diaries, 1954.
15. Kidson, A. George Romney : a complete catalogue of his paintings, 2015.
16. Thompson, F.M.L. English landed society in the 19th century, 1963.
17. Pentreath, B. Bolton Hall design and access statement (planning submission), 2021.
18. [MS]  Bolton Hall archives, Ref. ZBO, North Yorkshire Record Office.
19. The Times 17 June 1963.
20. Yorkshire Post 13 October 1990.
21. Northern Echo 25 March 1995.
22. Daily Telegraph 23 March 1995.
23. Daily Telegraph 1 February 1995.
24. Jenkins, S. Discover Britain’s best houses: Yorkshire, 2016.
25. Northern Echo 3 April 1992.
26. Wilkie K. Rejuvenation of parkland, Bolton Hall, Wensleydale (planning submission), 2022.

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As a time and a place in which to put down dynastic roots few can surely have been less propitious than the Scottish Borders in the first half of the sixteenth century. If the natives’ perennial confrontations with a territorially ambitious English crown were not enough, sudden havoc and devastation could always lie just over the hill courtesy of avaricious freebooting Border reivers. Loyalties were routinely bought and sold to suit ever-shifting agendas, all parties attempting to exploit volatile circumstances to their particular advantage.

torwaerial

see: Bing Maps

Abutting the north-western extremity of Galashiels, the Torwoodlee estate of the Pringle family was established in the teeth of just such unpromising circumstances. Over 500 years later it survives, having faced down existential threat more than once along the way. The wider Clan Pringle were as active players as any during the Borders’ turbulent history, gaining and losing by turns. William, a younger son of James Pringle (Hoppringle) of Smailholm would branch out ten miles west, fully acquiring Torwoodlee in 1510.

Just one year earlier a thrusting young Henry VIII had ascended the throne; in 1513 his forces would claim the life of William Pringle, being one of the thousands of Scots to fall in the disastrous Battle of Flodden. Decades later Henry’s still unsatisfied ambitions for his dominion would affect the destiny of William’s sons, George and Sandy.

Mary, daughter of James V of Scotland, was born on December 8, 1542; within a week she was queen. Henry quickly resolved to secure a union with his young son Edward, a proposal to which the Scots initially agreed before thinking better of it six months later. Thus began the years of so-called Rough Wooing which included ‘a remarkably systematic English effort to create a body of Scots collaborators’.1 If taken up, formal assurance agreements afforded not only protection from English harassment but license to menace and pillage recalcitrant neighbours if desired.

tortartan

see: Register of Tartans

With varying degrees of commitment ‘the Pringles – [clan tartan, r] – had signed up as “assured Englishmen”‘.2 Though initially coerced, the subsequent opportunistic alacrity demonstrated by William’s younger son Sandy Pringle came to be ‘regarded as intentional treachery rather than Borders craftiness by his fellow Scots’. So ‘English’ did he become that permanent relocation south of the border was deemed expedient (cushioned by the reward of a pension ‘and monastic grants from a grateful Henry VIII’).3

At one point the English had reason to believe that they also had brother George Pringle, 2nd Laird of Torwoodlee, on side, only to later accuse him of ‘treasonably assisting the Ancient enemies of England’ when his allegiance reverted.2 Pardoned for any such activity in 1551, George now evidently thrived: ‘[He] seems to have been a wealthy man, and to have lived in greater splendour than might have been expected, when security was so precarious.’4 And such apparent prosperity would indeed eventually bring out the very worst in some of Pringle’s fellow borderers, a mob of several hundred sacking the original house in late 1568, looting anything of value and murdering the laird in his bed.

tortower

see: milliecitra @ Instagram

Family fortunes would take a generation to recover, George’s grandson – also George – at last being able properly to replace the principal dwelling in 1601. Today approached by an avenue rising through woodland, the ruined remains (r) of George’s ‘very smart house’ stand enshrouded by trees on the 3,000-acre Torwoodlee Estate.5 ‘On a steep slope that was extensively terraced to receive the building,’ its semicircular tower remains distinctive, corbelled two-thirds of the way up to a square top storey [listing].

(For long, the laird has welcomed a visitation to Torwoodlee Tower as an important element of Galashiels’ annual Braw Lads Gathering.)

Their house re-established, George now set about restoring Pringle family honour, criminal prosecution of the families of his grandfather’s assailants resulting in their outlawry and the seizure of assets. Marrying at least three times, George’s first wife Margaret Pringle, of the Pringles of nearby Whytbank, produced their son and heir, James. (One of James’ own daughters, Anna, would also look no further than this branch of Clan Pringle, marrying Alexander, 4th Laird of Whytbank, whilst another, Margaret, married George Pringle, 6th Laird of Buckholm, Torwoodlee’s immediate neighbour to the east.)

If ‘fear and expediency [had given] the English the great bulk of their supporters in Scotland’ during the time of the Rough Wooing, ‘desire for the reformed faith gave them their most devoted supporters’.1 A century on, the rising influence of James, Duke of York (later King James II) saw the religious tide begin to turn once again. Having previously fought the royal cause in Scotland, George Pringle – ‘a staunch friend of the Covenant‘ who succeeded his father at Torwoodlee in 1657 – would now ‘suffer greatly on account of his religion’.6

torgeorge

see: Nat.Galleries of Scotland

The 6th Laird (left) became a key ally of James’ arch-enemy Archibald Campbell, 9th Earl of Argyll. The latter’s dubious prosecution and resultant death sentence in 1681 led to the earl’s audacious prison escape whence he headed initially for Torwoodlee, an expectant George Pringle supplying fresh horses and assistance to England. Argyll would ultimately find refuge in Holland to where in time Pringle himself also fled. The pair made an ill-fated return in 1685, Pringle being amongst many exiled Scots to support Argyll’s doomed overthrow of James II.

The ambitious earl was captured and executed; Pringle managed to escape back to Holland but Torwoodlee was confiscated and given to a royal ally. During his time abroad pressure for information was exerted on George’s only son, James, the teenager resisting threats that ‘every bone in his body would be broken, his flesh ripped up and boiling lead and oil poured into him’.6 The successful invasion by William of Orange in 1688 saw Pringle’s eventual return but his homecoming was brief, dying the following year, aged 58.

torsketchTorwoodlee would soon be restored to Pringle family ownership and, overdue a period of stability and calm, the tenure of James (d.1735) was long and relatively uneventful, that of his son even more so. Bachelor George, the 8th Laird, ‘hardly appears in the records [and] seems to have lived quietly’, sharing Torwoodlee with various spinster sisters.6 At his demise in 1780 all now passed to his nephew James…

… the one and only time Torwoodlee has failed to pass from father to son in its 500-plus year history. (Every laird since has been named James.)

Upon inheriting, 21-year-old James promptly threw up his legal studies and began what would be a defining incumbency stretching across six decades. Losing little time, in 1782 the young squire married Elizabeth Tod, co-heiress of the Dryburgh estate ten miles south-east of Torwoodlee. This property would soon be sold which was opportune since in 1783 the Pringles not only welcomed the birth of their first son but would also set about building themselves a fashionable new residence.

torplan

see: Canmore

Eschewing the increasingly redundant defensive vernacular in favour of Georgian comfort and elegance, the new Torwoodlee House was typical of the neat classical country villas now going up in the Scottish Borders. Attributed to emerging Kelso architect William Elliot, Torwoodlee’s ‘main block of two storeys over a high basement’ would be linked to flanking low pavilions ‘by screen walls originally topped by decorative urns’.5

torsouth

see: Canmore

The original five-bay south-facing entrance front is seemingly little-altered, ‘an excellent predimented doorway approached by a graceful flight of steps’ (r).5 The house was completed in 1785, the expense incurred being further defrayed by the sale of nearby Bowland, an estate which had been acquired by James’ father in 1752. Local literary superstar Sir Walter Scott would be among the subsequent visitors to ‘Mr. Pringle’s beautiful seat’.

James died in 1840 and the rest of the 19th century at Torwoodlee would be seen out by his namesake son and then grandson both of whom joined the Royal Navy at a young age. ‘Though not lucky enough to have been at any of the great naval battles,’ his father’s longevity enabled the 10th Laird to rise to the rank of rear-admiral at his retirement in 1846.7 Thirteen years later his son Commander James Pringle would in turn come ashore upon inheriting Torwoodlee and its ‘neat and substantial mansion’.

tornorth

see: Iain Lees

For reasons of privacy, this James soon decided that the house should be turned round, the entrance now facing north. In robust Victorian fashion his new centre breaks boldly from the relatively chaste original composition, capped by an armorial pediment rising to the roof ridgeline. Peddie & Kinnear were engaged for the project, the prolific Edinburgh practice also heightening the twin pavilions. Internally, the original entrance hall ‘was incorporated into the existing drawing room’.5

torair

see: Canmore

In 1854 James’ sister Elizabeth had married John Borthwick, 14th Laird of Crookston, an estate 15 miles further up the Gala Water valley, held by this family since the 15th century. Producing no children, Crookston passed to Borthwick’s brother, William, whose two eldest sons would head back downriver, finding brides in the shape of James Pringle’s daughters, Melana and Adelaide. Meanwhile, the sisters’ eldest sibling, John, dying young, brother James duly inherited Torwoodlee in 1902 and would see the estate through the first half of the 20th century.

torpreserved

see: Southern Reporter

In recent times attention has focused on old Torwoodlee Tower, which was ultimately abandoned after the family transferred to their new house. Funded by a combination of Roxburghe Estate windfarm bounty and an appeal to the global diaspora of Clan Pringle, the ruin is preserved, as befits a ‘monument of national importance .. which has the potential to contribute to our knowledge of the changing nature of polite architecture during this transitional period’. (With ‘impressive ancient oaks’, Torwoodlee’s parkland, too, is ‘a site of some interest that deserves further investigation’.8)

torsquiIn contrast to the civility of the Category A-listed House, the old stone Tower is a reminder of wilder times in the Scottish Borders. Not, of course, that the present (14th) Laird of Torwoodlee is entirely above taking sides and going into battle against pesky territorial invaders…

torgates2

[Torwoodlee Estate][Clan Pringle]

1. Merriman, M.H. The assured Scots, The Scottish historical review, Vol.47, No.143, 1968.
2. Tait, J. Dick the devil’s bairns: Breaking the Border mafia, 2018.
3. Miekle, M.M. Lairds and gentlemen: A study of the landed families of the eastern Anglo-Scottish borders. [Thesis, PDF] Edin. Univ., 1988.
4. Burke, B. A genealogical and heraldic dictionary of the landed gentry, 1848.
5. Cruft, K., Dunbar, J., Fawcett, R. Buildings of Scotland: Borders, 2006.
6. Pringle, A. The records of the Pringles or Hoppringles of the Scottish border, 1933.
7. Carre, W.R. Border memories, or Sketches of prominent men and women of the border, 1876.
8. Borders designed landscapes survey, Peter McGowan Associates, 2009.

 

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Coming very soon to a cinema near you, Downton Abbey the movie – perhaps an inevitable development given the international success of the television franchise which ran to fifty-two episodes over the course of five years. Not forgetting, of course, Downton Abbey the board game (see below)! Although the conventional costume drama depicting the fortunes of the aristocratic Crawley family and their household is entirely fictional, its scenarios are rooted in the common experience of many British country house estates.

melbgameThe themes of Series One, for instance – primogeniture, the premature demise of male heirs and the significance of the daughters of the house – find echoes in the history of Melbury House and the Ilchester Estate in Dorset. And one person you probably wouldn’t want to find yourself playing that board game with is Melbury’s present owner who is not, these days, an earl of Ilchester.

melbfrankton

see: Google Maps

Today Robin Fox-Strangways, the 10th of that ilk, lives on this road in rural Warwickshire and not – unlike most of his predecessors – at grade I Melbury, ‘one of the most remarkable houses in south-west England’ and the centrepiece of the 15,000-acre Ilchester Estate.1

melbtoronto

see: Google Maps

The 10th earl might perhaps compare notes with John Monckton-Arundell, the 13th Viscount Galway, who lives on this suburban road in Toronto, Canada, and not, as most of  his predecessors had, at the ancestral seat, grade I Serlby Hall set in 3,000 north Nottinghamshire acres (), created by architect James Paine for the 1st viscount in 1751. In fact both house and land would be sold in the 1980s as surplus to requirements since..

.. over the course of the preceding decades the slings and arrows of fortune had conspired such that both the Ilchester and Galway estates had devolved to just one woman, the present Mrs. Charlotte Townshend.

melbserlby

see: Rumblefish

The premature death at just 41 of the 9th Viscount Galway in 1971 would see the decoupling of title and estate, Charlotte, his only child, ultimately inheriting the latter (left), the title going to a series of cousins. Viscount Galway was married to Teresa Fox-Strangways who had similarly benefited in 1964 as the only surviving child of the 7th Earl of Ilchester. She died in 1989, daughter Charlotte now also becoming principal beneficiary of the Ilchester estate.

But all this was nothing new for Melbury. After the demise of the Strangways male line in 1726, ‘inheritance by two heiresses in succession meant that women played an unusually important part in shaping the destiny of [this] house and estate in the 18th century‘.2 The big headline from Country Life magazine’s primogeniture survey of 2011 (‘Daughters are beginning to inherit‘) demonstrated that Melbury has long been ahead of this particular curve.

Uncannily foreshadowing the tragedies which would befall the 7th earl over two hundred years later, the two sons of 18th-century Melbury heiress Susanna Strangways died young leaving just a daughter. In stealthily engineering thirteen-year-old Elizabeth’s marriage to the son of wealthy Sir Stephen Fox (‘one of the great arrivistes of the 17th Century’3) Susanna would unwittingly gold-plate the Ilchester inheritance, a cousinly connection with the Foxs/Lords Holland later yielding the Holland House estate in west London.

melbroadsigns‘Residential property on Ilchester Place is the most expensive in the country,’ it was reported last year. This landholding now amounts to a mere twenty-or-so acres but they – more so even than 15,000 glorious acres of Dorset – explain how private Melbury and its vast park ‘have been kept up as well and as fully as in the past’.4 And more directly they account for Charlotte Townshend’s ranking in the Sunday Times Rich List which, at £456m in 2019, is comfortably north of, er, the Queen’s.

melbharpers6

Harpers & Queen March 1990

Being ‘the only other person in Britain entitled to own swans‘, Townshend’s ‘near monarchical existence (she never carries money)’ became the object of print media fascination in the late 1980s and early ’90s, a curiosity then as now largely frustrated by the landowner’s ‘low key’, determinedly traditional custodianship of her more than 500-year-old inheritance.

*

The Moncktons, viscounts Galway, became ‘Monckton-Arundell‘ after a legacy of 1769. Although Charlotte, only child of the 9th viscount, did not carry the latter half of her father’s name prior to marriage, being an ‘Arundell’ in fact redoubled her connection with the original builder of her maternal inheritance (and present home), Melbury House. For Sir Giles Strangways (d.1547) was the son and heir of Henry Strangways by his first wife, Dorothy, the daughter of Sir John Arundell of Lanherne.

But it was Henry’s third marriage to Catherine Brouning which would introduce the Strangways to the manor of Melbury Sampford (midway between Dorchester and Yeovil), Henry purchasing the reversion of the Brouning estate from his wife’s nephew in 1500. Dying just four years later, this Dorset acquisition may have been a late addition to a legacy which now included ‘property in eight counties’ but it would become, in the latter half of Henry VIII’s reign, the place where his son and heir Giles elected to build a house. And not just any house.

melbbelvcolourDisplaying ‘influences beyond the local vernacular, one has to turn to the Tudor royal palaces for architectural parallels’.1 The square courtyard principal block was of a ‘regularity in advance of its time’.6 While the other facades of the house were later to be significantly refashioned, ‘the west range [remains] largely untouched’ (right), Melbury’s crowning 16th-century feature, the hexagonal tower and viewing lantern, rising from a cross wing at its centre.1 ‘Without a peer for prominence,’7 the belvedere ‘must have been one of the first erected in England’.6

Knighted at 30, Sir Giles ‘spent a lifetime in the service of the crown’ and was well placed to expand his landholding in the county by snapping up the coastal estate of the former Abbotsbury Abbey after the Dissolution of the Monasteries.

Chesil Beach

see: Dorset Rambler

melbswan

see: Abbotsbury Swannery

Most of 18-mile Chesil Beach, and Abbotsbury village with its unique swannery and subtropical garden, remain in the family.

Giles Strangways lost his son Henry as the pair fought the French at the siege of Boulogne but he lived just long enough to see his grandson satisfactorily married. Alas, the second Sir Giles Strangways ‘lived – and died – extravagantly. In June 1555 he surrendered himself to the Fleet to avoid outlawry for debts that included over £100 to two London tailors. When he died in his early thirties in 1562, he left his widow with at least six children under 21.’ But the family estates were to be most seriously imperiled two generations on.

Wadham College Chapel

see: Trover

Things began rather propitiously for young John Strangways who inherited 6,000 acres of Dorset and Somerset upon coming of age in 1606, becoming ‘Sir John’ two years later and joint-heir of wealthy Nicholas Wadham in 1609. (The latter’s will would also lead to the founding of Wadham College, Oxford, the chapel of which still features the east window donated by Strangways, right.)

unknown artist; Sir John Strangways, MP

see: Art UK

At Westminster during the reign of Charles I, Sir John (left) did his bit to try to shore up ‘that chain which links and unites the hearts and affections of the prince and people together’, but which would eventually snap with the outbreak of the Civil War. Though he was a relatively moderate Royalist Strangways languished for two years in Tower of London, the price of the return of his freedom and sequestrated estates being an eye-watering ten thousand pounds. Sir John died in 1666.

Less than nine years on, the ‘sudden death from a stroke of his rubicund, hearty son Giles ought not to have surprised anyone: Strangways’ accounts for sack and sherry had long been Falstaffian’. And the demise of Giles’ first-born just a year later would have lasting impact as the ensuing tenure of his younger son Thomas would be most notable for a major overhaul of the character of Melbury House…

melbstairpic

see: Historic England

… where a large family portrait was soon to dominate the landing of a new principal stair. In the background Melbury is depicted in a more radicial treatment (minus the tower) than would in fact be executed. Also to be found in Melbury’s art collection is the likeness of one ‘Mr. Watson, architect to Tho. Strangways esq, who enlarged & adorned this house 1692‘. Being the otherwise distinctly obscure John Watson, a local practicioner selected for the task of giving the Tudor house a contemporary makeover.

melbchristies1The north and south fronts received near-identical treatment (r), five two-storey bays defined by stacked pilasters being squeezed between the existing gable ends. The east front, however, was entirely rebuilt, the result being described variously as ‘delightfully provincial confusion’7 or ‘maldroit artisan Baroque’.8 Fronting three new rooms including a 5-bay hall was ‘a Classical facade of 11 bays with an overly narrow central section and a pediment which uncomfortably fails to span the full width’.(↓)1

melbEast

see: Historic England

While certain important earlier features, including an elaborate 17th-century fireplace, would be preserved, ‘much internally is of the Watson period’, including a pair of Grinling melbceilingGibbons-like carved overmantels in the hall and several spectacular painted ceilings.7

Thomas Strangways died in 1713, his childless heir Thomas jnr. thirteen years later at which point Melbury was inherited by the latter’s sisters, Elizabeth and Susanna. Spinster Elizabeth, 36, suddenly became attractive to the 5th Duke of Hamilton; the success of their marriage can perhaps be gauged by the complete absence of the duke from his wife’s will following her death less than two years after the event. Having unusual autonomy over her own property, Elizabeth now bequeathed her stake in the Strangways estate to her sister and with the express proviso that her brother-in-law was in no way to ‘intermedle’ therewith.2

In the year of their father’s death Susanna had married Thomas Horner (of Mells in Somerset) but this union, likewise – notwithstanding the birth of three children – was an unhappy one. Flexing her newly enhanced financial muscle, soon after her sister’s death Susanna took herself off to Europe for several years, Elizabeth (the couple’s only surviving child) in tow, leaving her increasingly vexed husband behind. Whilst abroad Susanna would strike up an ambiguous relationship with Henry Fox, later 1st Baron Holland, a younger son of Sir Stephen Fox (who had risen ‘to immense wealth and public prominence from humble origins’ at the court of Charles II).

melbhogarth2

see: National Trust

The pair would persuade Henry’s eligible elder brother Stephen, 31 (left, seated), hitherto distracted by a decade-long homosexual relationship with John, Lord Hervey (second right), to regularise his lifestyle by secretly marrying the now 13-year-old Elizabeth in 1735. (William Hogarth painted this conversation piece for both men; Fox’s version remains at Melbury.) The marital fait accompli was the final ignominy for Elizabeth’s father who would go to his grave unreconciled in 1741.

melbgothick

see: Historic England

The following year, with her daughter now satisfactorily ensconced as mistress of the Fox seat at Redlynch less than thirty miles to the north, a liberated Susanna threw herself into projects at Melbury. Most particularly, the surrounding parkland received a significant (if somewhat passe) overhaul. Avenues would be incised through woodland providing ‘wild walks’ culminating in splendid vistas while water courses were manipulated to create cascades. All of which could be contemplated in repose from an existing garden house newly tricked out in fashionable Gothick style (r).8

Her son-in-law having been raised to the peerage in 1741, two years before her death Susannah would have the pleasure of seeing Elizabeth’s status elevated to that of countess, Stephen Fox being created 1st Earl of Ilchester in 1756. The couple now exchanged Redlynch for Melbury House (and later a new mansion – Elizabeth’s ‘Pin-money Castle’ – at Abbotsbury, since demolished) where the countess would indulge her love of card games for up to eight hours a day.2

Beach, Thomas, 1738-1806; Henry Thomas Fox-Strangways (1747-1802), 2nd Earl of Ilchester

see: National Trust

To what extent this habit influenced their son and heir Henry’s proclivity for gambling is unclear; the 2nd earl routinely lost thousands in an evening at the tables. After his mother’s death in 1792, Henry relocated not just his family but also some choice furnishings from Redlynch to Melbury: Mortlake tapestries now adorned the Breakfast Room, with surplus items from the two houses being dispersed in a sale in 1801. The 2nd earl died the following year and ‘Redlynch would never be lived in again by the family’ (the 4,400-acre estate finally being sold for £97,000 in 1912).2

melbmorris

see source

Squire of Melbury for half a century Henry, 3rd Earl of Ilchester, picked up the loose ends of his father’s upheavals, restoring “all the old-fashioned grandeur”, but was himself disinclined towards major change.2 Both sons predeceasing him, Henry’s 62-year-old half-brother William inherited as 4th earl in 1858 after a lifetime in the diplomatic service. Dying childless seven years later, the 4th earl’s young nephew, Henry Fox-Strangways now succeeded to the title and a 20,000-acre portfolio which was soon to a receive an initially burdensome but potentially valuable south-eastern supplement.

*

In 1768 Susanna Strangway’s erstwhile favourite Henry Fox, now Lord Holland, had acquired a 200-acre estate not far from royal Kensington Palace west of London complete with an imposing Jacobean mansion, Holland House. Legendary entertaining therein by later generations drained the family coffers, however, and from the 1820s the parkland would be steadily eroded by leasehold residential development.

melbShawUltimately, the widow of the 4th Baron Holland brokered the sale of the estate to her husband’s kinsman Henry, 5th Earl of Ilchester, who soon initiated further bespoke building work on the heavily-mortgaged property. From 1875 a series of large houses ‘designed by leading architects for successful artists’ would be erected on the north side of Kensington High Street.9 Holland House itself was preserved only to be destroyed in WWII. While the surviving parkland was sold to London Corporation and remains a prized public amenity, the very exclusive real estate has been retained. (‘Written consent is required from the Ilchester Estate for any external alteration to the appearance of your house’ – Holland Park Conservation Area Appraisal 2017).

melbtwit4

This metropolitan focus had occasioned an interruption to the expansionist 5th earl’s programme of substantial developments at Melbury, which eventually ‘doubled the size of the house’. In 1872 architect Anthony Salvin had removed the conservatory in the south-west corner and added a cavernous gable-roofed library extending from the short transverse tudor wing on the west front.

melbfount

melbtwit1

Twelve years on George Devey warmed to this theme, adding a second tower (above), a service range abutting the library and a port-cochere to the right of the north (entrance) front with an enclosed courtyard beyond, all in ‘stage set’ Jacobethan style.1

melb6earl

see: NPG

Dying in 1905, the 5th earl’s half-century at Melbury would be precisely matched by his son, the reserved but ‘engagingly frivolous’ family historian Giles (left, d.1959), at which point the reins were handed over to his own son, Edward.10 But the ill-starred 7th earl outlived his father by only five years having already endured double tragedy with the loss of both sons. In 1947 a fatal accident while cycling home from shooting grey squirrels in the woods had claimed 13-year-old Giles. Eleven years on, younger son Stephen, 20, was shot in the back by Greek terrorists in Cyprus just weeks from the end of his National Service.

Thus in 1964 the Ilchester estate passed to Edward Fox-Strangways’s remaining daughter Theresa (by this time Viscountess Galway), the earldom drifting away to distant male relations.

melbtatler

Tatler [January 2014]

As outlined earlier, at the 9th viscount’s premature death his Serlby Hall estate was placed in trust for the couple’s only child Charlotte who, by the time she additionally came into Melbury in 1989, had already married and divorced her first husband, Guy, the father of Melbury’s present heir, Simon Morrison (b.1984, right).

melbjtownshend2

see: Dorset Magazine

melbchar

see: Hampshire Chronicle

Melbury’s chatelaine – seen, left, in the Salvin library – was remarried to industrial farmer and fellow hunting enthusiast James Townshend (r) in 1995. The following year saw the arrival of their daughter, rising eventer Melissa Townshend

… and also the departure of several hundred of Melbury’s ‘accumulated contents no longer in use’.11 Now a single sock could perhaps be regarded as the epitome of redundancy. But spared from inclusion in the decluttering Christie’s auction was ‘one of the socks worn by Napoleon I at the time of his death’..

melbhogarth

Hogarth’s ‘The Indian Emperor’

.. said item being among 497 ‘heritage assets’ at Melbury House qualified for exemption from Inheritance Tax and Capital Gains Tax with the proviso they are made available ‘for the general public to view’. The annual Heritage Open Days festival provides strictly limited opportunity to see some of Melbury’s Old Master-laden rooms – ‘the 18th Century at its most sumptuous and civilized’4 – and, maybe, the odd sock…

[Ilchester Estates]

1. Hill, M. West Dorset country houses, 2014.
2. Martin, J. Wives and daughters: women & children in the Georgian country house, 2004.
3. Beckett, JV. The aristocracy in England 1660-1914, 1986.
4. Cecil, D. Some Dorset country houses: a personal selection, 1985.
5. Daily Mail 7 June, 1995.
6. Oswald, A. Country houses of Dorset, 1959.
7. Hill, M., Newman, J., Pevsner, N. Buildings of England: Dorset, 2018.
8. Mowl, T. Historic gardens of Dorset, 2003.
9. Sheppard, FHW (ed.) Survey of London: North Kensington, 1973.
10. Oxford dictionary of national biography, 2004.
11. Russell, F. The Melbury sale, Christie’s 14 Oct, 1996.

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