Here’s a log slice table that’s pretty easy to make. What you need is a thick slice of some interesting wood — elm is a good choice as it has curious lines within it. And you need a router and a portable belt sander. Let the wood sit for a long time — years perhaps — to ensure it is thoroughly dried out inside. The next time you have a tree cut down, ask the workmen to save you 3-4 slices of the trunk, each slice about 15-20 cm thickness.
The second photo shows the log slice being flattened using the router. The wood box provides a sturdy frame with two flat rails, the slider for the router moves at right angles to that, and you draw the router back and forth to mill the log slice flat. The little wooden strips on top, alongside the router, keep the router from drifting so far to one side that you might gouge out the slider boards.
The router bit is one of the square-bottom profiles; I like to use a 1.2-cm bit, as a 1.8-cm bit chatters too much. Very small depth cuts, maybe 4-6 mm, are made on each traverse. After one level has been taken off, a thin board (foamboard or plywood) can be put under the log, to raise it up for the next round. You are essentially being your own milling machine, without the cost or complexity of a real machine. The tradeoff is your time — it will take several hours to get the log slice just right. I like to flip the slice over a couple of times, to ensure that each face is being milled parallel to the other, with no unwanted bevels at the edges.
Once the log slice is the right thickness with two parallel faces, I like to remove the bark around the edge, so it does not flake off later. I use a small tool with about a 1-mm diameter rounded blunt tip — originally intended for rug hooking, I think. Then sand the faces, and finish them with urethane. Both top and bottom, and the edges, so the log slice does not absorb moisture unevenly.
To attach the legs (which can be anything you find convenient and attractive), I make a plywood flat which can be screwed underneath the log slice, with its profile about 2-3 cm inside the profile of the base of the log slice. Screws are run down through that flat, into the legs. Then the flat is screwed to the base of the log slice. One final coat of urethane, including the legs, and the table is complete.
I’ve made three of these log slice tables in the past, for personal use and gifts, and the one I’m making presently will be the fourth, another gift. It’s been a really enjoyable activity. If you make one of these tables, I hope you have fun.
Perhaps I should mention cautions. Protective goggles and ear muffs, of course. More importantly, there are lots of wood chips flying about — you might want to consider a dust mask. And some woods (eg, black cherry) are poisonous when breathed in as sawdust. Check the woodworking websites if you’re in doubt about the wood which you’re working with. As with any power tool, know where each of your hands is positioned at all times when you are going to use the tool.
Best wishes,
Ken Roberts
29-Jun-2014







