“What water is there for us to clean ourselves?“
– Friedrich Nietzsche, The Parable of the Madman (1882).
Among the first destinations of many visitors to the Japanese city of Kyoto is the UNESCO World Heritage site of Kiyomizu-dera. The mountainside location is a Buddhist temple complex founded in 780 AD, during Japan’s “Heian” period. The temple was originally associated with the Hossō school of Buddhism. This is a unique and interesting branch of Buddhism which originated in Nara in 654 AD, and that drew ideas from the Yogachara approach to Mahayana Buddhism.
Kiyomizu-dera’s original construction was commissioned by the Shogun, Sakanoue no Tamuramaro. But in 805 AD, the site was officially designated as an imperial temple. The current temple complex structures date to 1633, when the Shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, ordered that they should be rebuilt. Between 2008 and 2020, several of the buildings within the temple complex were also heavily renovated.
The temple’s full name, Otowa-san Kiyomizu-dera (音羽山 清水寺), literally “Otowa Mountain Pure Water Temple”, is drawn from the mountainside waterfall, the Otowa-no-taki, around which the temple complex was constructed. The waterfall feeds into the “Three Sacred Streams”, three small streams of water emanating from overhead outlets in a shrine below the falls. Visitors would traditionally stand in the shrine, beneath the small jets of water. Then they would reach out with a shrine cup to catch some of the falling water to drink for blessings.
The water shrine is visible from the “Kiyomizu no Butai”, or the “Stage”, an open deck behind the Hondō or the temple complex main hall. Views from the 13-meter (45-foot) high Stage, as well as views of the structure itself are among the most photographed and well recognized images of Kiyomizu-dera.
Perhaps just to illustrate that viral messaging and stupidity aren’t anything new, an idea somehow circulated during Japan’s Edo period that if one leapt from the Stage and managed to survive, that his wish would be granted. Afterward, 234 people apparently jumped, with a surprising 199 recorded to have survived. However, I haven’t been able to find any record of wishes being granted. And the Kyoto government officially banned any further Stage-diving in 1872.
While I don’t have much of a fear of heights, Kiyomizu-dera does mark one particularly terrifying experience. Beneath the Zuigu-do Hall, a large structure to the northwest of the Hondō and the Stage, is a less well known location called the “Tainai Meguri”, or the “Journey to the Womb”. It’s essentially a long, winding, pitch-black passage beneath the Zuigu-do Hall, symbolic of finding one’s way through darkness, and subsequent rebirth.
Did I mention that I’m extremely claustrophobic?
After a small fee of 100 yen, removing your shoes, and assuring that there will be absolutely no flashlights, photography, or peeking whatsoever, individuals are led to the bottom of a flight of stone steps. And from there, it’s a one-way journey into the absolute darkness of the womb of the female Bodhisattva, Daizuigu. The only guidance is a chain of wooden beads that can be felt along in one’s left hand. For most people, this probably wouldn’t have been such a big deal. Regardless, I was fortunate to have had someone who could push me along from behind (contractions?) while I clenched my sweating palms and tried to keep from passing out in the darkness.
With regard to its more reverent status as a religious site, Kiyomizu-dera remains an important location for Buddhist pilgrimages, with each area of the complex dedicated to a different Buddhist deity. Perhaps most importantly, however, the temple is known as a “Kan’non Reijo”. The term “Kannon” refers to the Buddhist deity of mercy and compassion. And a “Reijo” is a holy or reverent location. The particular Kannon revered at Kiyomizu-dera is known as the “Henge Kan’non” (変化観音), or the “Transformational Kannon”. It’s depicted in a form that dates to around the 9th century.
Henge Kan’non can be identified by their 11 heads, visible on the Kiyomizu-dera representation in its crown. The three front faces represent the Kannon’s compassion. Three faces to the left watch over us, while three faces to the right encourage our own determination. A face on the back is said to “laugh-off evil”. And the face on the top, known as “Butsomen”, represents truth.
The Kannon is usually described as having “1,000 arms”. But around the 8th century, common physical depictions included 42 arms, with each hand having a specific meaning, either through a particular hand position, or by holding an object. The Kiyomizu-dera Kannon includes two arms with hands in prayer, and two arms holding a smaller statue above its head, both somewhat unusual in Japanese depictions of Kannon. I don’t have any photos, as the Kiyomizu-dera Kannon is considered a “hibitsu”, or “hidden Buddha”; so any photography would have been extraordinarily disrespectful. But the link below is to their site for pilgrimages, and it has some images.
https://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp/en/pray/
Kiyomizu-dera is a popular and well-known tourist destination, so there are many sources of information available to visitors. But one thing I’ve never seen noted anywhere is that there’s actually a small Shinto shrine located at the very center of this Buddhist temple complex. It’s dedicated to the goddess, Benzaiten, a water deity associated with dragons, fortune, creativity, and love. Located on a small island in the middle of a pond, it’s accessible via two walkway bridges.
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Leaving the temple complex on foot, the most direct route toward the Gion District where one might hope to see some of the city’s traditional Geisha and Maiko, is to the northwest through the Nio-mon Gate and down the narrow, and touristy, Matsubara-dori. This is actually a really nice walk along a route past the old shops and food vendors, and into the surrounding neighborhood… if it’s not too crowded. Lately, however, the masses of tourists along this narrow road have been overwhelming.
But there is a lesser known and considerably more peaceful alternative to the southwest, if you don’t mind the company…
down the route through the massive and ancient Otani Cemetery.




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