
I am with D on the other side of the Great Firewall, in Shanghai. Reports of the GF can be exaggerated. If you are here long term it is not impossible to get around much of it with a VPN. Or so I am told. Meanwhile I find myself greatly inconvenienced by the ongoing feud between Google and the PRC government. It is difficult being the servant of two masters.
Pictured above is the airbnb-type accommodation we are staying at for a few days before sallying deeper into China. Our billet is the lean-to structure tacked on the end of the house, itself now subdivided. In the neighbourhood are many very substantial houses (grander than this), dating from about 1920 to 1948 – testimony to the life of the Shanghailanders and the fortunes made from the century of humiliation which any well-brought-up Chinese person will be quick to remind you of in myriad contexts.
Our landlady, also pictured, lives in part of the house. She has already told D that she is 74, has two children in the USA, and much else besides. We had to tear ourselves away in search of a morning coffee.
It is just over 25 years since I first came to Shanghai, and 10 years since I was last here other than passing through the airport. The changes from the first time are enormous. One difference I have noticed since 2013 is that there are fewer buses. I put that down to the proliferation of metro lines and consequent withdrawal of bus services. Anyway, why get stuck in the traffic on a bus? I nevertheless hope at some stage for old-times’ sake to take the No 20 trolley bus which I first rode from D’s mum’s place to Waitan (or as Imperialist-nostalgists like to say, the Bund [no Wikipedia link available to me just now) in 1998.
The yellow bike in the background is a “share” bike. Shanghai is very flat and well-suited to cycling. The right handlebar twists as if it were a gear, but it operates a bell. The fly in the ointment is that one needs a local weixin/wechat financial connection to obtain one. For this we need to prevail on D’s relatives, which means the ideal hop-on-hop-off mode is not really practical for us.
As elsewhere in the world, cash transactions are now a novelty. The keyboard on my laptop needed replacing. When I produced cash to pay for this yesterday, the shop person said she hadn’t seen cash for a long time.
Title to this post from the legend on the slippers provided for indoor use:






















