Bag Design and Pattern-Making Work-Along

Many years ago, I used to run weekly classes in bag design and patternmaking. It was popular with the locals, but people living interstate and overseas were always asking me to put it online, so that they could attend, too. 

AT LAST - Creativebug have done just that. These classes are the first stages of learning to design and make your own bag patterns, and will set you up to make a very broad range of designs..  

Even better, Creativebug are currently running a special (until 28 Nov 2016), where you can sign up for a 3 month subscription for $1! (after that, it's $4.95 USD per month). That's just in time for some serious holiday crafting. Alternatively, you can now buy individual classes.

The first class is all about learning the basic processes and terminology for patternmaking. It's about beginning to draft simple shapes, making basic patterns, and understanding the relationship between the 3-dimensional bag and the 2-d pattern.. The same processes are used as the designs become more complicated in Parts 2 and 3.

 Part 2 is all about the KEY to patternmaking - moving seamlines. This is how you change the design lines of the bag, create colour blocking, linings, pockets and facings.

And here I am, looking like an old lady peering over her glasses. (I hadn't realised how wrong the prescription was with these glasses until I couldn't see the cameraman - over or through the frames - with my middle-aged eyes...). There is some squinting to camera, but also lots of patternmaking and construction techniques for making the bags.

Part 3 is all the bells and whistles that jazz up the bag - pleats, gathers, etc.

When I taught Patternmaking for Bags in my studio, I ran it as two sets of four sessions - Beginners and Advanced - 8 weeks in total.  There is a lot more that you can learn, but these three sessions will set you up to make all the shapes that appear in my Beginners, Basic and most of the Intermediate range of patterns, as well as those in The Better Bag Maker, and many more besides.

The Creativebug work-along includes the sewing techniques for the overall shape construction, but if you want tips and tricks for things like using interfacings and hardware, inserting zips and pockets and getting a fine finish on your bag, check out my other classes on Creativebug and/or read my book The Better Bag Maker. 

Who knows, maybe we might follow up with another online work-along one day.

To the best of us.

If you "like" my business page on Facebook*, you're probably aware that I had a bit of a shock when I saw Lisa Lam's new book recently.  It appears that we both came up with the same design idea, quite independently and unbeknownst to one another.  They were published around the same time.

It happens to designers, especially now that we live in a world where information and design influences spread about the globe like forked lightning.

Lisa and I have come up with different solutions for some of the minor things (...and I've rabitted on endlessy about how to make the perfect structured strap with a ring in it, as I'm apt to do...), but the bag shape is the bag shape and a lot of it looks the same.  It happens.

Today, I bought this book....

...and there's another version of what looks like the wristlet project from my book (albeit a much simpler version, with no pocket, straps or facing, and no wadding in the interfacing mix). 

I'm quite sure that Sue Kim has never seen my book before in her life (unfortunately, my book is still very difficult to get in the USA).

And people wonder why I'm not precious about people using my "designs" to make purses and hats to sell at markets or boutiques or on Etsy...?

The key to the patterns that I produce is all in the how-to (and I'm very, VERY precious about that!).  Most of the time, I choose to work on fairly simple shapes that are merely the basis for the construction and  finishing techniques I want to teach.   The simple shapes that inspire me are the same that inspire others; it's how we interpret them that makes the difference.

So...in answer to all of you who are polite enough to ask if I'd mind if you use my designs to make things for markets, Etsy or whatever... go ahead.  

For every polite person, I'm assuming there are a dozen impolite ones and another two dozen who came up with a similar shape without knowing the first thing about my work.

I'm thankful if you credit my pattern (and the help it may have given you in your beautifully-finished work! ;) ), but it's not a proviso.  I only ask that you put your own unique twist on your interpretation of my designs and feel proud of every improvement in your sewing and design skills. 

The one thing I'm protective about is the intellectual property I pour into my class notes and  instructions.  That stuff is hard-earned through years of work, experimentation and making my own mistakes:  it's not common knowledge.  It's also how I make my living. 

I have heard tale of people sharing class notes and patterns with friends.  Please, please don't do that, especially if you want me to still be here to teach you any more new sewing tricks.

In other news, I'm almost certain that I'm headed for another book-case explosion (or a new book case).

This is the top shelf of sewing and design collection.  The bottom shelves are stuffed full and I've just moved a few boxes of my yarn-based craft books into the studio.  Somehow I don't think they'll fit into the current arrangement.

And as an addendum to my first point about the influences we share, globally.... how many of these books do you recognise?

*My personal Facebook page is for friends and family only.  Please don't send a friend request to that page unless you're a friend or family member. :)

The Design Market that was Not a Design Market..

I only took one photo today - the wee girl eating a sausage in the "birdcage" at the (not a) design market today. A gloriously sunny (if a little chilly) Melbourne winter's day meant that there was a somewhat festive air in the outdoor area.

I'm afraid all the eye-candy in this post will have to be via links to the designers' individual websites (I don't like borrowing images without asking!).

The market included some of Melbourne's most talented designers - established and emerging. I bought a bangle for myself and a card for my mother. The wee girl only got a sausage - it was a bit of a change from the usual market scenario as far as purchases go.

It was lovely to meet Bronwyn and Mark who worked together on the fabulous bangles. I also caught up with Karen from The Cat's Meeow (and my studio building) who was squeezed into a corner while crowds slapped the racks of her gorgeous clothes and tried things on.

I really really liked Melissa Cameron's work. Amazing stuff... cut out of tin lids and bowls and things. Soooo intricate and clever.

It was lovely to see my old friend Scott from Haul - who makes great bags, laptop sleeves and things from recycled urban materials. We worked together on developing some of his bags and laptop sleeves a few years ago, and it's wonderful to see how his brand and business has grown. He's looking to expand his empire into the city, and is looking for space.... and running a competition to speed things up. Any Melbournians who know of quirky up-a-laneway type spaces (that's SO Melbourne!), contact Scott NOW!

All in all a grand day out. They plan to have a few more of these markets - so if you're a local and into design, keep your eye out for news of it!

Past lives...

It's been a slow week as far as finished sewing projects go - just sampling a kazillion little hats and trying to get back to that bag pattern I'd hoped to have finished by now. I had to delve into the archives to be able to finish my Blogtoberfest post-per-day pledge. Otherwise I might have just put my feet up, poured another glass of wine and called it Friday night....

Let me take you back... way, way, way back...

Ten years ago.... I was in Ireland, doing things like this. Very classic leathergoods - some with a slight Celtic twist. Most of the leather was hand-dyed (and my hands were mostly dyed, too). I was also making tweed and Irish linen hats, and tweed bags.

Fifteen years ago... I was making lots of hats, and started to make quirky sculptural bags. When I chanced across a job-lot of snakeskin and mock-croc pvc I went on a bit of a dinosaur tangent......even "dinosaured" the footstools I was making. (I sold LOTS of these at the time... anyone reading this buy one..?).
Twenty years ago..... I was making chiffon cocktail dresses (..??!!).

I'm practising saying the f-word so I can pronounce my LOOMING birthday... I look at past work, think about the different "lives" I've led in different places... and STILL I can't believe so much time has passed. Yikes - life goes too fast.

A Little Giveaway....

I expected to have some patterns finished by the end of Blogtober, and was planning giveaways throughout.

There are no patterns ready to give away yet. The instructions are still being written, re-worked and revised. I keep coming up with new variations that require MORE INSTRUCTIONS!!!

However... I was looking for a cloth to cover a table the other day, and found my SECRET STASH of cotton moleskin fabric!!!

It's a finite resource, but I thought I might make up what I have into "foldable pressing hams" for the shop.... while stocks last, and all that. Get in quick.

AND I THOUGHT I'D GIVE AWAY A SET OF THEM..... BUT.... I need a bit of help, so we're going for a bit of an Excalibur approach here.... "Whomsoever cometh up with the best name for this bag shall rule the ironing board, armed with the mighty MOLESKIN!"

What started out with the working title "Curved Hobo" has morphed and changed with different variations of fabric, interfacings and strap design. It now needs a snappy name that says it all...

It's a practical, roomy bag with inside zip and compartment pockets and a zipped closure at the top. It looks a bit girly. It can be made into an unstructured Hobo shape, a structured bag or scrunched shoulder bag with a belt...


.. and even this basket shape - with purse feet and zippered closure. You can see this bag in action here...... or a soft and simple shopping bag. Can you see my problem here? Are you ready to rise to the challenge..?

I need a name - preferably one word. I'd like it to describe the bag (rather than just be a girl's name or something). The giveaway will run until we have that EXCALIBUR moment!!! The winner will win a moleskin pressing set, and then I'll do a random number generator thingy for another moleskin pressing set so that all participants are in with a chance. So that's actually TWO giveaways, isn't it?

And just out of interest, I'd also love to hear which variation is your favourite...?

Curved Flat Bag

My little assistant has been a dream-child this week.... even letting me sew without "help"!! I managed to finish a few bags over the last few days (rather than the usual weeks it takes to finish a bag). I'll spread them out a bit over a few posts.... (Blogtoberfest "post per day" and all that...).

This one is my Curved Flat Bag. It's in Denyse Schmidt deco weight fabric (from my favourite fabric treasure-trove), which is just a lovely to work with.

This bag was threatening to look a bit Nanna-ish there for a while, so I decided to make it more "quirky Nanna meets naiive craftster". I included three mis-matched vintage buttons and some rough running stitch detail. (BTW - Rough running stitch is the perfect way to hide rough machine stitching on the bit where the handle piece is anchored to the bag!!)

The buttons are actually part of my inheritance from my Nan (who would have turned 108 a few months ago if she was still with us). She died when I was a Fashion student, and my inheritance was a Nescafe jar full of buttons - buttons from the turn of the 20th century to mid-20th century. Some people inherit money... but I inherited GOLD (of the buttony kind, at least).

I digress...

So this is the inside of the bag... (Don't get me started on buttons!).Large zip pocket on one side for wallet, compartment pocket on the other for phone, lippy and keys. Lots of room in the middle for baby-wipes and those little plastic fish with soy sauce in them. (Am I giving away the contents of my bag here, or what...?).

I used Medium-heavy interfacing and light wadding to give a bit of support to the fabric. It's heavier than quilting fabric so it didn't need too much oomph-adding. The lining was a $2 per metre Spotlight bargain, which surprisingly matched the designer fabric beautifully! I put a sew-in magnet in the front pocket (behind the middle button) and a normal magnetic catch in the top of the bag.

I hadn't made one of these for a long time and I was so impressed with the result that I immediately started hacking into the Amy Butler fabric to make another one.... more on that later!

More Detachable Straps!

There seems to be a bit of a theme emerging here....

This time to convert the Baguette into a clutch purse. A few swivel hooks and o-rings and Bob's your proverbial relation!

My original idea was to make the strap to also work as a wrist strap (from one o-ring only), but a moment's distraction while I was cutting meant that I made it TOO LONG for that. I've run out of the fabric so have to be happy with the shoulder strap/clutch options for now.

There was a HUGE disaster with the original detail on the front (hence the very wide strap detail....). Unfortunately red doesn't photograph well. It's actually less FLARING and GLARING in real life, and it has topstitching on it.

It's not quite as it was planned, but isn't as bad as it looked at one point. It was of those organically-developing designs that reassure me that my problem-solving skills are still in tippy-top condition.

And Sarah, if you're reading this..... I know you're laughing.

Did someone mention TUTORIALS a while ago...?

Oh... that'd be ME.

I'm SO SORRY that life got in the way of my good intentions to spend August writing tutorials for y'all.... This bag was one of the super-stars on my table in Sydney on the weekend (on the FLOOR under my table, actually), and the attention it recieved reminded me that I was going to post a quick HOW TO about it.

It's a variation on my Wrap pattern, but you can also do the same thing with the Small Wrap and the Sling (and any other bag with all-in-one straps and facing). I'm afraid you'll need the bag pattern instuctions to get the most out of this one. The photos were taken AFTER the bag was made up, so you'll need to have a bit of an understanding of the pattern to follow these instructions.

1. Before you cut out your bag pieces, play around with some large o-rings and your pattern, and decide how much strap you'll need to fold over the rings. (Even better if you have a FABRIC version of the bag made up already!). You need to leave enough strap to fold through the ring and anchor back to the inside of the bag - at a depth that gives the strap room to gather and fall. It's a visual thing.... you'll get it when you see it.... I hope. (I forgot to take a photo of that bit, sorry!).

2. Fold the paper pattern pieces (for both the outside of the bag and the facing) to shorten the straps to the desired length. Cut out your fabric pieces.

3. Make up the bag body. Attach the facing all the way around the top of the bag (including across the top of the cut-off straps). Turn it through to the right side and backstitch/understitch/topstitch in the usual way (follow the instructions in the pattern!).

4. Fold the strap over the o-rings and pin it to the facing. (I've used two Extra-Large O-rings on each side of the strap here). Topstitch to attach the edge of the strap to the facing (not through to the outside fabric).

5. Pin the topstitched edge of the strap (and the facing) to the outside of the bag. Double-check that the fabric is falling nicely into gathers from the rings (not bunching up). Adjust the pins if necessary.6. Think of a clever way to anchor the facing and strap to the outside of the bag (to stop the facing from being pulled up out of the bag). I've used grommets, but you could use buttons, simple embroidery stitches (cross-stitch or running stitch).... safety pins...? Whatever works for you.
7. Make a new shoulder strap and attach it to the top of the rings (if you don't know how to do that I suggest you come to a class or try one of my Beginners patterns).

It looks like a completely different bag.... and I only wish I'd thought of this variation when I was writing the instructions for this pattern!

Oh - and a lot of people ask me about grommets. I don't sell them because the hole punch and setting tool cost about $100 (I can't get them any cheaper). If you want to do lots of grommets (like I do) then it's worth getting the tools. You'll need to check out your local saddlery supplier for them. If you come to one of my classes I'll let you use mine!!

Laptop Bag Pictures

Here's one I prepared earlier...You can see a bit of bias tape action around the edges of the flap, and on the internal divider pocket, too!!
Can you see how I've managed to complicate/prolong the instuction-writing process...?
I'm also experimenting with different interfacings and stabilisers to get it JUST RIGHT to carry a computer safely and snugly.

Good things come to those who wait.... and this is going to be VERY GOOD. But you're going to have to wait a little bit longer.... sorry (insert apologetic, kind-of wincing smile here).

FAB fabrics ...and a few little purses

A few weeks ago, the lovely Lara of Kirin & Co dropped in for a visit. How lovely is she..? She gave me some beautiful samples of her gorgeous new fabrics, and stayed for a cuppa and chat. She's a very talented gal.

I finally had a chance to try a few samples in some little purse frame purses.

Lara and Bianca are doing fab things over in Kensington right now. Both are fabulous textile designers and really REALLY nice people. I'm wishing them all sorts of good things for their new venture.

Thanks to all who've stopped in for my current giveaway. If you're wondering what the inside of a purse kit is like, see here... (Although the current giveaway kit is for a bigger purse, and has more stuff in it).

I'll be back to post a few more tutorials soon. Just have to work on the website a bit...

There seems to be a THEME emerging...

Or perhaps I just bought too much of THIS FABRIC...?!!

I'm a bit fond of this print - from the Utopia range by Free Spirit. I went a bit silly last Christmas when Z and S Fabrics were having a big clearance sale....went into stash-building overdrive!! I seem to have liked this print enough to buy it in THREE colourways. So, in the spirit of the Von Trapp Family, I'm USING that fabric... on EVERYTHING!!!

I even "borrowed" the motif to use as an applique design (to reflect the design on the lining).

This Small Tote is made as a satchel in cotton drill, with binding around the edges of the feature print. Inside it has lining in the same print (!!) in a beige and plum colourway.




The Laptop Bag is made in red duckcloth with pvc covering the print. Inside it is a laptop sleeve made in (you guessed it) the same print.


There are no photographs yet, but I've also made a hat, using the blue colourway for the outside and the beige for the lining.

So... what's inside the new red bag?

...SPOTS!!

Another day, another pattern....

Wouldn't it be great if that was the case? Just churn 'em out and start working on the next bit of inspiration....? I wish. I wish a LOT. Things take a bit longer than that around here.

Anyhoooo....
WE FINISHED THIS ONE TODAY!!!!! YAYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!
Please meet the Puff Purse - with it's cute little 10cm curved frame. I know - you've met before. I'm hopeless at keeping new designs a secret. We'll be packing (and pricing) the kits next week - WATCH THIS SPACE!!!

Many thanks to Lara for her fabulous pattern-testing and feedback, and for blogging the results. And big thanks to Leah who has been a huge help with layout and editing on the instructions, as well as her usual whizzing in the office.

I'll be doing a GIVE-AWAY draw for one of the Puff Purse Kits as soon as we have them packed and ready to go. Leave a comment here and I'll draw a name out of a hat (or purse) in time for next Wednesday's ON MY DESK pic.

Lara also mentioned having seen this - coming soon....ish.

But I forgot to show her these...... My lovely new rings!!!! So shiny.

And so it grows...

The mess on my cutting table, that is.

Things have developed a bit more in the paper and calico jungle, and I now have the patterns finalised for the hat and small purse. The framed bag pattern is ready for toile (sample) no 4, and the instructions for the smaller purse are finished.

We're seeing some development, but no RESULTS as yet - nothing photogenic, anyway.... just more calico and paper, and files on a computer.

Instead of pictures of my craftiness, here's my assistant at work on the whiteboard. Out of the blue last Friday she FILLED the board with lines and lines of "writing", telling me all the things she was "writing the names for". The picture in the middle of the board is a "sleeping bear". I was so impressed with her trying to write - and such an over-indugent parent, probably - that I also took a VIDEO of her doing this! It's one of those bitter-sweet great-leaps-forward that mark another step towards independence..... It means my baby is growing up fast.

The best advice I was given when she was a newborn was "Kiss and squeeze while you can!".