During a recent visit to Karnival Komuniti Kraf 2025, SiennyLovesDrawing 👩🏻 has learnt about Telepuk textile art in Selangor for the 1️⃣st time
Telepuk is the most glorious Malay textile & is associated with royalty & the nobility. It was especially prominent in states like Selangor, Pahang, Terengganu, Perak & Johor. Its historical significance is captured in Malay manuscripts such as Syair Siti Zubaidah Perang Chik, where it’s referred to as “perada”
In the state of Selangor, Telepuk textile is a rich fabric usually worn by the royalty & nobility members since 300 years ago. It’s widely used during the reign of the High Royal Highness Sultan Sir Hishamuddin Alam Shah Al-haj 👑 (1938-1960) & worn by his consort the Royal Highness Tengku Ampuan Jemaah
The tradition of Telepuk art has continued since the beginning of the formation of the Sultanate of Selangor in 1766, based on the discovery of cultural artifacts in the form of Telepuk stamp belonging to Raja Penuh, the son of Raja Lumu, the 1️⃣st Sultan of Selangor. The stamp engraved with the name of Raja Penuh is kept on Daik Island, Lingga Regency, Riau Islands Province, Indonesia 🇮🇩
The use of Telepuk art cloth continued until the next reign. From here, the tradition of Telepuk art developed in the Selangor Palace 👑 & the use of telepuk cloth continued during the reigns of Sultan Abdul Samad Ibni Raja Abdullah (1857-1898), Sultan Ala’eddin Suleiman Shah Ibni Raja Muda Musa (1898-1938), Sultan Hisamuddin Alam Shah Alhaj Ibni Sultan Ala’eddin Suleiman Shah (1938-1942) & (1945-1960) & Sultan Musa Giatuddin Riayat Shah Ibni Sultan Ala’eddin Suleiman Shah (1942-1945)
SiennyLovesDrawing 👩🏻 has learnt this art technique briefly from the friendly carnival staff on duty at the carnival
This traditional technique involves creating motifs & designs on fabric, especially woven cloth, using a stamping technique with gold 💛 leaf, often uses 24K gold 💛 leaf
The process started with stamp Arabic gum onto the forearm, followed by the telepuk stamp carved with motifs. The gum acts as an adhesive for the gold 💛 leaf, which is then pressed onto the fabric
Gold 💛 leaf is imported from Thailand 🇹🇭 for its superior quality. It’s produced in Thailand because it’s traditionally used in the royal attire of the King of Thailand 👑
It refers to a traditional textile art that is recognized as a royal heritage & is currently in the process of being gazetted as the Official Textile Art Heritage of the State of Selangor
This art produces luxurious decorations using gold 💛 tinsel on fabric, which was once styled by the palace 👑 & royal families, & is now being worked on to preserve & elevate its dignity through various programs & documentation
However, no water ❌💦 or hand wash on Telepuk art textiles because it can damage the golden 💛 motifs which adorned the textile’s surface. She has understood briefly about the art of washing Telepuk textile which requires special techniques to preserve the cloth. After each wear, it’s cleaned by smoking aka “Bertunu” in Malay language. Bertunu means drying the cloth with fragrant smoke produced from traditional ingredients burned in a steaming container & placed under a rattan trap
Traditional fragrance ingredients for making dry laundry with 7️⃣ dried plants are Rose 🌹, Jasmine, Kenanga, (Tpaka, Kesidang, Tanjung, Kemunting, some other woods 🪵 & fragrances eg. Agarwood, iatincana, kasturi wood, hampastebu, frankincense & white granulated sugar are impregnated. These ingredients when mixed will produce a fragrant aroma
The dry laundry process is usually done by burning 🔥 the ingredients in a large impregnating container & placed under a rattan trap. The Telepuk clothes will be placed on the rattan trap & turned over several times until all parts receive fragrant smoke & last up to 3️⃣ months
Recognition as heritage: The Selangor State Government is actively conducting research & documentation to gazette the Telepuk art as an official state heritage. This effort is expected to be completed & gazetted in near future to ensure that this art is preserved for future generations
History & uses: This heritage art has been in Selangor for a long time & has even been a symbol of pride for the royal 👑 family for the past 300 years. It’s used to decorate ceremonial clothing such as tanjak, samping & selendang worn for official events & weddings. Telepuk art is also used in decorating the wings of the Wau Kapal, the official Selangor kite, using gold 💛 tinsel or carved colored paper
Production process: The process involves pasting flower motifs with gold 💛 tinsel on fine fabric using the woodblock technique. The attached gold tinsel gives the fabric a unique shine ✨
Conservation efforts: The Selangor Public Library Corporation (PPAS) has launched a special book titled ‘TELEPUK, Bunga-bunga Emas Yang Dilupai’ to promote this art. Demonstrations of this art production are also held at Muzium Selangor 🏛️ to expose the public to the subtleties of this heritage traditional art
SiennyLovesDrawing 👩🏻 has learnt a deeper appreciation 🙏🏻💖 for the artistry, history & ongoing efforts to conserve & preserve this heritage traditions alive ~ Telepuk Textile Art
Though it’s not popular & the choice of ideas to the local fashion designers. Today younger generations, especially Malays are not familiar & unacknowledged about this Telepuk textile art as the great 👍🏻 Malay traditional textile art form. This preservation initiative already identified the floral motif of the Telepuk textile & led to a systematic inquiry in documenting the aesthetic values of the Malay treasure of the Malay Selangor heritage textile. It also documented & compiled the aesthetic & philosophical values of treasure of the Telepuk textile as the Selangor Malay traditional royal court fabric
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