‘It’ll never be the same again’ – Covid took more than just lives

When I recently made my way to this old traditional coffee shop in the back lanes of Muharraq, Bahrain, I expected to find the place as bustling as ever. Instead, there were only these three gentlemen sitting there waiting for the place to open.
Why is it like that, I asked? “Most of those who came here earlier have died – many of old age and many more have succumbed to Corona,” said one of them. “The last two years have been very traumatic,” he added.


“We have been coming here for years,” said a second gentleman. “We are retired and gathered here to talk, have coffee, the sheesha and exchange notes. The pandemic shut down such places and by the time restrictions were eased, we realized many of our friends weren’t around any more.”
The third gentleman said the opening hours of the shop have been severely curtailed as well. “We come here and wait for it to open – but it’s certainly not like the old times – the zing is missing. People do come but it’ll never be the same again.”


The unoccupied tables and the looks on the gents’ faces tell a story, of course – and it’s not a happy one.
I dug out a “happy” picture of the same coffee shop taken before the pandemic disrupted our lives and found so much of life, energy and vigour in the shot.
Hopefully, this Muharraq icon will be “reborn” one day and come back to its old glorious days.

Superman’s Bahraini, is it?

Superman
“Not only am I awesome, I’m Bahraini too” says a sticker outside this curio shop tucked away in the by-lanes of Old Muharraq Town. And, of course, one cannot help but notice a larger than life-size model of Superman, wearing the traditional Bahraini headgear. Maybe, the sticker should’ve read: “Not only am I awesome, I’m Superman – and Bahraini.”

Bahrain’s pearl project

BuMaherFort

Until a couple of days ago, I wasn’t even aware this place exists in Bahrain.
However,  a visit to Muharraq’s Coast Guard base revealed the excavations and restoration that have been going on for years.
The site is now in the final stages of completion and a new museum will open shortly. And this will throw light on the ancient pearling industry in this tiny island nation.
Bu Maher Fort was first built during the Portuguese occupation of Bahrain. Renovation works first commenced in the 1970’s, during which only some of it was rebuilt but in 2010, excavation works had the site uncovered until its original foundations and dimensions were visible.
The fort represents the first step on Bahrain’s historic Pearling Trail, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A dedicated visitor center, established next to the fort, houses an illustrated map of the Pearling Trail and models of the sites that can be found along the way.
The visitor center aims to introduce the public to the architectural character that went hand in hand with the traditional pearling trade, as well as highlighting its surrounding environment both within Bahrain and beyond, and building an understanding of the social components of that era.
The Ministry of Culture also now offers daily trips by sea from the Bahrain National Museum to the fort, which help shed light on part of the story of Bahrain’s traditional pearl divers and sailors, and enable people to re-live some of their experiences and sea expeditions.
This is especially so since the Bu Maher Fort and its coastline was the spot from which pearling dhows departed and returned many months later.

‘Skeleton’ at the ‘graveyard’

The Skeleton
I found this picture of a rotting and disintegrating dhow – resembling the skeleton of a dinosaur – in an area off the coast of Muharraq, Bahrain they call ‘The Graveyard’ for such craft as well as old fishing boats. Uncanny that it resembles what it does and at the location where it is!

 

Colour – by evening

Sunset
A Bahrain sunset is always special. And, if it’s winter, even more so!
This evening wasn’t any different. Even it meant parking on the emergency lane of a high-speed highway and clicking away, it was worth the while. The cloud formation, the buildings and the sun about to set made for a phenomenal sight!