The spice of life is not in tradition any more

Bahrain’s Spice Market may not hold charm for the local population any more but, tucked away in the lanes of the Old Suq in the capital, Manama, it is a must visit for tourists and visitors.
The conventional ways of shopping have, in any case, taken a beating in the last few years with the advent of supermarkets and suq’s (traditional markets) have been among the first to fall victim.
However, as I have often discovered, the real charm of shopping in the “good old days” was when one picked up a jute (or cane) basket and went to the neighbourhood bazaar to pick up the day’s groceries.
As expected, Bahrain’s Spice Market was deserted when I went there for a walk last weekend. Hardly any customers, but for a few very ‘touristy’ people, were seen actually shopping while most who were there preferred to busy themselves with devouring the food on offer at the several eating joints.
The pungent smell of spices and the very friendly, mostly Asian, traders were welcoming and eager to sell their wares but were equally at ease with me preferring to take pictures instead. Yes, one of them said, most visitors are more interested in taking pictures but they didn’t mind. He admitted many of them end up purchasing some as well.
The same is the story of the rest of the suq – be it clothes, electronics, toys, utensils and the like. People – most people – just don’t go there any more, thanks to the ease and the air conditioned comfort of shopping in the supermarket.
Clearly, the spice of life in tradition does not exist any more!
A pity, really!

Moods on the weekend

A trip to Bahrain’s Old Manama Suq can be exhausting if you are not able to stand crowds, the heat and the grime and the noise. But this is exactly what I did last evening. While I expected to catch some pictures of the old buildings and the stalls selling a variety of stuff, it was virtually impossible to do that in the pushing and the jostling that made it very difficult to stand in one place. I finally found a corner and stood relatively still for nearly an hour to catch the “moods”, thanks to the zoom lens.
The myriad expressions and the emotions are clearly visible on people’s faces as they go about their business.

Tea Time in Manama

A group of blue-collar workers in Downtown Manama pause for tea and gossip at a roadside stall. Such gatherings are common in the old part of the Bahraini capital, particularly during the weekend and a prolonged holiday!

Source: Tea Time in Manama

Morning feast

Nothing like a traditional Bahraini breakfast at the start of a working day. And that’s what happened today.
It always happens. I start work very early in the day and that means no (or a very hurried) breakfast. That also means I have to ‘exist’ on tidbits (and the occasional tea and coffee at “peepa” time).
But that was not to be this morning. Having finished work on the month’s magazine issue, I had some spare time and that prompted me and a colleague to take a 15-minute walk to the Old Suq. And what better way to celebrate the rapidly changing weather (it’s actually getting pleasant now) that parking ourselves at the Manama roadside cafe and having our fill.
Work could wait (there wasn’t any in the day, anyway) but this opportunity does not come often, especially on a weekday.
We ordered liver fry and tomato scrambled egg along with plenty of local leaf and the traditional ‘khabas’ (bread). Of course, there was Sualimani Chai (Black tea) to wash it down with.
It’s an understatement to say we had a great time. We absolutely loved it, especially since it’d been a while since I had this stuff.
The rest of the day was, well, well-spent after the perfect beginning.
And, just for the record, we spent a dinar and a half only ($4) for the spread!Value for money, certainly.
As for the “peepa time”, that’s quite another story!
Watch this space!!

The ‘mall’ on the street

Not everyone shops at malls or at chic stores. Many cannot even afford to shop. But, come the festival season and a group of young enthusiasts display used clothes in the interiors of the Manama Suq in Bahrain for anyone to take away and use.
Needless to say, these are a great attraction for those who want a fresh dress or a piece of clothing to wear during the holiday.
The best bit is that these ‘entrepreneurs’ wish to remain anonymous. “Let us try and get some happiness into some people’s lives,” is what one of them has to say!