A Brief History Of Ya'an Tibetan Tea

Dark tea originated in Sichuan Province, China. Ya'an  with its long history, is renowned for its dark tea, which has been popular in the Tibetan region since the Tang and Song dynasties.  Since ancient times, it has been closely linked to the daily lives of the Tibetan people and other ethnic groups in northwestern China, including the Mongol, Uyghur, Hui, and Qiang peoples. Ya'an dark tea has been known by various names throughout history, including black tea, dark tea, border tea, border trade tea, Southern Sichuan border tea, Southern Sichuan road border tea, large tea, and Ya tea.  These ethnic groups have a deep understanding and appreciation for tea, expressing sentiments such as, "We would rather go without food for three days than without tea for one day," and "Without tea for a day, we feel sluggish; without tea for three days, we fall ill."

According to the *Records of the Grand Historian* (Shiji), in 1066 BC, during the Zhou Dynasty's conquest of the Shang Dynasty, "eight tribes from the south (Sichuan) offered tea to King Wu." The *History of the Ming Dynasty* (Ming Shi) records that Emperor Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang "issued an edict to the people of the six prefectures of Tianquan, exempting them from corvée labor and ordering them to exclusively produce dark tea for exchange with horses." Dark tea refers to Tibetan tea or border tea, and Tianquan is now Tianquan County in Ya'an City. The *Appendix to the History of Tibetan Politics and Religion* states that "tea was introduced to Tibet by Princess Wencheng," referring to the Longtuan and Fengbing teas produced in Ya'an, which were offered to the imperial court and then taken to Tibet as gifts. Since then, Ya'an black tea has been continuously supplied to Tibet for over 1300 years. Since the Tang and Song dynasties, the imperial court implemented policies such as "tea-horse trade," "tea monopoly system," and "tea distribution system" to "govern the border regions with tea," leading to the rapid development of Ya'an dark tea. The *History of the Ming Dynasty* (Ming Shi) records that Emperor Taizu of the Song Dynasty "established tea-horse trading offices in Qin, Tao, He, and Ya prefectures, from Diaomen (present-day Tianquan), Li (present-day Hanyuan), and Ya (present-day Yucheng) to Duogan and U-Tsang (Kang and Tibetan prefectures), covering over 5,000 li of tea trading routes..." In the seventh year of Xining (1074 AD), a tea-horse trading office was established in Ya'an, located in present-day Xindian, Mingshan County. Its ruins are the only verifiable tea-horse trading office site in my country today.

Tea Horse Trade In Ancient Time

The Ya'an tea-making techniques were primarily passed down orally from generation to generation by traditional artisans and craftsmen in tea companies and factories, with written records only appearing in modern times. Before the Ming Dynasty, the production of Ya'an Tibetan tea was carried out by scattered processing units, with the imperial court centrally purchasing and managing the trade. The *Ya'an County Gazetteer* (Republican era edition) records that the earliest Tibetan tea processing enterprise was the "Yixing Tea Shop" established in the 25th year of Jiajing of the Ming Dynasty (1546), followed by "Tianxing," "Hengtai," and "Jucheng" tea shops. During the Qing Dynasty, private Tibetan tea trade was permitted, leading to an increase in private tea enterprises. By the end of the Qing Dynasty, there were more than 200 tea shops in Ya'an, Tianquan, Yingjing, Mingshan, and Qionglai counties. In the 32nd year of Guangxu (1907), to resist British aggression, boycott Indian tea entering Tibet, and revitalize the status of Ya'an border tea in the Tibetan region, Zhao Erfeng, the Minister of Border Affairs of Sichuan and Yunnan, and the Sichuan Provincial Bureau of Industry jointly organized tea merchants from Ya'an, Mingshan, Tianquan, Yingjing, and Qionglai counties to raise 335,000 taels of silver to establish the "Border Tea Co., Ltd." in Ya'an, a company jointly managed by the government and merchants. After the Xinhai Revolution, the company dissolved.

In the early years of the Republic of China, private tea shops recovered to more than 100.  However, due to warlord conflicts and heavy taxes, many Tibetan merchants fled with their funds, causing many tea shops to close. By 1935, only about 30 remained. In 1939, the Xikang Province was established, and the Nationalist government, in order to monopolize the border tea trade, prepared to establish the "China Tea Company Xikang Branch" in Ya'an. Subsequently, private tea shops took the lead in forming the "Kangzang Tea Co., Ltd.," which monopolized all tea permits, leading to the closure of tea shops in Mingshan and Qionglai counties, leaving only Ya'an and Tianquan tea shops to acquire raw materials and process finished tea.

In February 1950, Ya'an was liberated, and there were 48 tea shops, including 30 in Ya'an (now Yucheng), 10 in Tianquan, and 8 in Yingjing.

After the founding of PRC, bureaucratic capital was confiscated and converted into state-owned tea factories, including four state-owned tea factories: Caoba, Hebei, Wending Street, and Dabai Street. In 1953, through public-private joint ventures, the 48 original Tibetan tea processing factories were merged into three: the state-owned Ya'an Tea Factory, the state-owned Yingjing Tea Factory, and the state-owned Tianquan Tea Factory. The state-owned Mingshan Tea Factory was established in 1972, and the state-owned Ya'an City (now Yucheng District) Tea Factory was established in 1985.

In 2002, seven national ministries and commissions announced 25 designated production enterprises for border-area tea, six of which were in Ya'an, accounting for approximately one-quarter of the national total. These enterprises benefited from support policies for designated producers of special ethnic goods.

In 2005, Ya'an had 15 Tibetan tea production enterprises (including 6 state-designated enterprises). In 2006, in accordance with the State Council General Office's "Notice on Implementing the Food and Drug Safety Project" (Guo Ban Fa [2003] No. 65) and the implementation of the tea market access system, 10 enterprises had obtained QS certification.

In 2007, the city's total tea production reached 56,000 tons, of which nearly 30,000 tons were Tibetan tea, accounting for 80% of the province's border-area tea production and more than 40% of the national border-area tea production. Of this, 60% was sold to Tibet, approximately 9% to Qinghai and Gansu, approximately 20% to Ganzi and Aba, and approximately 12% for other domestic regions.

The series of new Tibetan tea products developed using traditional production principles not only inherits the unique taste, flavor, efficacy, and components of traditional Tibetan tea, but also better suits the lifestyle needs of modern urban dwellers in terms of variety, packaging, consumption methods, storage, and decoration. The production and sales strategy of "border-area tea for domestic consumption" and "Tibetan tea for shared enjoyment" has promoted the innovation of Tibetan tea products and the transformation of marketing concepts. Ya'an Tibetan tea products have been sold to domestic cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chongqing, and Chengdu, as well as to countries such as Russia, South Korea, Japan, Mongolia, and Australia, and to Southeast Asia and the Taiwan and Hong Kong regions.

Sipping Liquid Time: The Rich, Earthy Resonance of the Dark Tea

Dark tea, including Pu-erh ripe tea, Anhua dark tea, Liubao tea, and Jingyang Fuzhuan tea, is the most unique among China's six major tea categories. It's like the "aged wine" or "blue cheese" of the tea world; those who love it cherish it, while those unaccustomed to it avoid it.

We can analyze this in depth from two perspectives: "What makes it taste good?" and "Why do some people dislike it?"

I. What makes dark tea taste so good?

The beauty of dark tea lies not in its freshness, but in the **"depth of time."**

Mellow and smooth, with a viscous texture:

Through sufficient fermentation (pile fermentation), the polyphenols in dark tea undergo profound transformations. Good dark tea is very "smooth" on the palate, without the astringency of green tea or the constricting feeling of black tea. It's like a bowl of warm rice soup or rich broth, with a distinct "thickness" and "smoothness."

"Cross-category" and profound aroma:

The aroma of dark tea is highly distinctive and very rich. Common aromas include:

Aged aroma: Like the smell of opening the door of an old wooden house.

Medicinal/woody aroma: Like an ancient medicine cabinet or agarwood.

Fungal aroma: The unique fragrance of dried fruit brought by the "golden flowers" (Eurotium cristatum) in Fuzhuan tea.

Date/longan aroma: A sweet and mellow aroma produced after long-term storage.

High brewing endurance and "body feel":

Dark tea is very durable and retains its flavor even after more than ten infusions. More importantly, dark tea is mild in nature and has a "warming" effect on the stomach. Many people feel particularly comfortable after drinking dark tea after a meal; the feeling of aiding digestion and relieving greasiness is unparalleled by other types of tea.

The surprise of the aftertaste:

The sweetness of dark tea is not a straightforward sugary sweetness, but a "lingering sweetness" that slowly emerges from the back of the throat after swallowing. This sweetness is very long-lasting and profound.

II. Why do many people dislike dark tea? The entry barrier for dark tea is indeed higher than that of green tea and oolong tea, mainly due to the following reasons:

"First impression" aesthetic habits:

Most Chinese people are deeply influenced by the aesthetics of green tea, accustomed to its "fragrant, refreshing, and tender green" characteristics. Black tea, however, has a dark red (even soy sauce-like) color and a deep, rich aroma. This huge visual and olfactory contrast can make beginners instinctively feel that it is "not fresh" or "too strong."

Misleading "fermentation odor":

Newly processed dark tea (especially ripe Pu-erh) has a "fermentation odor," a smell similar to earthy or dampness. If the processing is not done properly or the tea is not aged enough, this smell will be very noticeable. For beginners, this smells and tastes very much like "mold."

Uneven quality, even with "storage odor":

Dark tea requires proper storage. If the storage environment is poor (too humid or poorly ventilated), the tea will absorb environmental odors, producing a "moldy" or "storage odor." Many beginners may first try cheap, low-quality, or improperly stored dark tea, and one bad experience is enough to make them give up on dark tea altogether.

Lack of "high-pitched" aroma:

If you expect a strong floral or fruity aroma like jasmine tea or Phoenix Dancong Oolong, dark tea will disappoint you. The aroma of dark tea is subtle and deep, requiring careful and patient appreciation. This can seem "dull" to taste buds accustomed to a fast pace and seeking immediate stimulation.

Poor control of concentration:

Beginners often have difficulty controlling the amount of tea leaves and brewing time. Dark tea has a dark color, and if brewed too strongly, the tea liquor becomes pitch black, and the taste becomes very overwhelming, even with a slightly bitter and salty taste.

Summary and suggestions:

If you want to try dark tea, it is recommended to:

Start with "aged" tea: Dark tea that has been aged for 3-5 years will have most of the fermentation odor dissipated, and the aroma will be purer.

Try "Golden Flower" Fu Zhuan tea: The fungal aroma of Fu Zhuan tea is usually sweeter and more acceptable to beginners. Note on rinsing the tea: Dark tea is a post-fermented tea, so the first (or even the first two) infusions must be used to "awaken/rinse" the tea leaves and then discarded. This removes surface dust and impurities, resulting in a clearer tea liquor.

Dark tea is an art of **"slowness."**  When you're tired of the vibrant, fragrant teas and seek inner peace and digestive comfort, the true charm of dark tea will reveal itself.

Ten Questions About Tibetan Tea(Ya'an Zang Cha)

1. How did Tibetan tea get its name?

Tibetan tea, produced in Ya'an, Sichuan, was originally called Nanlu Biancha (Southern Border Tea).  It was introduced to Tibet by Princess Wencheng during the Tang Dynasty and has a history of over 1300 years. It is considered a vital tea for the Tibetan people, essential to their daily lives.  Throughout history, Tibetan tea has been known by various names, including border trade tea, large tea, and black tea. In modern times, it is called Tibetan tea because its main consumption area is Tibet.

2. Why do Tibetan people consistently enjoy drinking Tibetan tea?

Because Tibetans generally live in areas above 3,500 meters above sea level, the high altitude means extreme cold and low oxygen levels.  Their diet primarily consists of beef, lamb, barley, and cheese, lacking in vegetables and fruits.  They need to drink Tibetan tea to regulate their digestive system, aid digestion, and obtain essential minerals and vitamins, effectively supplementing their vitamin intake.

3. Why is Tibetan tea considered the originator of dark tea?

Dark tea originated in Sichuan, and Sichuan dark tea originated in Ya'an. This is a well-established fact in the Chinese tea industry.  The Chinese tea industry generally considers Tibetan tea to be the ancestor of dark tea, and Ya'an is considered the birthplace of Tibetan tea. In 2008, the Ministry of Culture announced that the traditional production techniques of Ya'an Tibetan tea were included in the national intangible cultural heritage list. On September 18, 2008, the China Tea Marketing Association awarded Ya'an the title of "Hometown of Tibetan Tea."

4. Why doesn't Tibetan tea affect sleep?

The substance in tea that affects human sleep is caffeine.  Through deep fermentation, Tibetan tea converts most of the alkaloids (including caffeine) in the tea leaves into their oxidized forms: thearubigins, theaflavins, and theabrownins. Therefore, drinking Tibetan tea does not affect sleep for most people. Due to its unique processing method, the caffeine in Tibetan tea gradually decreases during the long fermentation process, while theanine, which has calming and neuroprotective effects, is preserved.  Therefore, drinking Tibetan tea does not affect sleep quality; in fact, aged Tibetan tea, with its high theanine content, can even promote sleep.

5. Why can Tibetan tea help regulate the digestive system?

Tibetan tea is made from the red stems and green leaves of tea plants harvested in the same year.  Because the raw materials have a long growth cycle, the tea contains abundant nutrients.  It is then processed using core techniques such as pile fermentation. During the fermentation process, insoluble plant fibers are converted into soluble cellulose.  Tibetan tea also contains a large number of digestive microorganisms that promote gastrointestinal function and break down fatty foods, thus helping to regulate the digestive system. Its beneficial effects on the gastrointestinal tract make it a healthy beverage suitable for people of all ages and body types.

6. What is the best way to drink Tibetan tea?

Tibetan tea can be consumed by steeping or boiling, and can be enjoyed plain or with added ingredients. Consumers can choose the most suitable method based on their personal tea-drinking habits, the environment, and even the type of tea ware used. The traditional method of boiling Tibetan tea is due to the high altitude of the plateau, where the boiling point of water is lower. Boiling allows the tea's components to dissolve more effectively. Boiled Tibetan tea has a richer, more vibrant color and a more substantial and textured flavor compared to steeped tea. While steeped Tibetan tea has a lingering sweetness, boiled Tibetan tea offers a sweet taste from the first sip, with the sweetness and aftertaste seamlessly integrated.

7. Who are the most suitable people to drink Tibetan tea?

The most distinctive characteristics of Tibetan tea among all types of tea are its ability to reduce fat and grease, regulate the digestive system, and aid digestion.  Long-term consumption of Tibetan tea can lower blood lipids and blood sugar, promote weight loss, and improve digestive health.  Furthermore, even large quantities of Tibetan tea do not cause chills, dryness, or intoxication. It is particularly suitable for people with high blood pressure, high cholesterol, obesity, poor digestive function, slow bowel movements, and constipation.

8. Why does Tibetan tea contain tea stems?

Because tea stems contain a large amount of plant fiber and polysaccharides, after fermentation, the insoluble plant fiber can be hydrolyzed into soluble cellulose, and the polysaccharides are an important nutrient source for microorganisms during the fermentation process of Tibetan tea. Chinese national standards have clear regulations regarding the stem content of dark tea; Tibetan tea must contain a certain amount of tea stems to meet the national product standards for Tibetan tea.

9. Why does Tibetan tea become better with age?

Tibetan tea truly improves with age. As a typical dark tea (post-fermented tea), it not only has no fixed shelf life, but its quality continues to improve over time under proper storage conditions. Tibetan tea undergoes a long period of fermentation during processing, but this is not the end of the process. After production, beneficial fungi such as *Aspergillus niger* and various enzymes within the tea remain active. During storage, these microorganisms continuously interact with oxygen and moisture in the air, undergoing slow oxidation and degradation, causing the chemical components of the tea to constantly transform. The high levels of polyphenols and catechins (the main source of astringency) in new tea gradually oxidize and polymerize over time, transforming into thearubigins and theaflavins. This makes the tea liquor, which is slightly rough and astringent when new, become more mellow, smooth, and sweet. The unique "red moss" raw material used in Tibetan tea is rich in cellulose, and after several years of aging, it produces a more stable woody or aged aroma, making the fragrance deep and long-lasting. Tibetan tea often uses mature leaves and red moss as raw materials, which contain richer and more stable minerals (such as phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium) and organic substances than young leaves. This "complete internal content" characteristic provides sufficient material for the transformation process that lasts for several years or even decades. As the aging time increases, Tibetan tea becomes richer in beneficial enzymes, B vitamins, and enzymes that break down glucose. In the Tibetan region, aged Tibetan tea is often used as a traditional remedy for regulating the digestive system, lowering lipids, and detoxifying the body.

10. What are the storage requirements for Tibetan tea?

Ventilation and drying: Humidity should be kept below 70%, and direct sunlight should be avoided.

Avoid odors: Tea easily absorbs odors, so it is strictly forbidden to store it with substances that have strong smells.

Moderate oxygen: Vacuum packaging is not recommended, as a small amount of oxygen is necessary for the continuous transformation of the tea leaves.

If stored improperly, leading to mold or a noticeable "musty" smell, the tea will not only fail to improve but will also become undrinkable.

Questions About Golden Flower Liubao Tea

 

1. What are the "golden flowers" found on Liubao tea?

The "golden flowers" on Liu Bao tea are a common name, but the more professional and precise term is *Eurotium cristatum*.  *Eurotium cristatum* is a beneficial bacterium that is good for human health and typically appears in tea as golden or yellow colonies resembling "milan flowers." *Eurotium cristatum* is more commonly found in Fuzhuan dark tea because the Fuzhuan production process includes a specific "flowering" stage. The quantity of "golden flowers" is an indicator of the quality of Fuzhuan tea; a higher content of "golden flowers" indicates better quality and health benefits. In contrast to Fuzhuan tea, Liu Bao tea production does not include a "flowering" process, so "golden flowers" only occasionally appear in Liu Bao tea under specific circumstances.

Golden Flower Liubao Tea

2. What is *Eurotium cristatum*?

Tea enthusiasts who are somewhat familiar with Liubao tea know that its post-storage transformation involves the participation of specific microorganisms.  *Eurotium cristatum* is one such microorganism, and it is a relatively rare and valuable beneficial bacterium that only appears under specific conditions.

3. What impact does *Eurotium cristatum* have on the quality and health benefits of Liubao tea?

While growing in the tea leaves, *Eurotium cristatum* secretes enzymes. These enzymes, through enzymatic action, further transform the substances in the tea leaves, thereby improving the tea's flavor, aroma, and mouthfeel. For example, cellulase promotes the conversion of coarse fibers in the tea leaves into soluble sugars, enhancing the taste of the tea; polyphenol oxidase catalyzes the oxidation of catechins into thearubigins, theaflavins, and other oxides, optimizing the color of the tea liquor; simultaneously, with the oxidation of catechins, amino acids and other substances in the tea also undergo oxidation, producing various aromatic compounds, thus making the tea aroma richer.

Golden Flower Liubao Tea

According to research reports from Hunan Agricultural University and Northwest A&F University in China, *Eurotium cristatum*, the fungus that catalyzes the transformation of tea leaves, produces various substances that have strong effects in lowering blood lipids and blood pressure, regulating carbohydrate metabolism and overall metabolism, and boosting human immunity.  *Eurotium cristatum* makes the health benefits of tea even more significant. Therefore, the "golden flowers" on Liu Bao tea are not only safe to consume but also offer numerous health benefits.

4. Why is "golden flower" (a type of Probiotic fungus) rarely seen in Liubao tea?

The "golden flowers" on Liu Bao tea only form under specific factors and conditions. Firstly, the raw materials require relatively coarse and mature tea leaves with abundant internal substances. Furthermore, during the processing of the tea leaves, it is essential that the abundant internal substances within the tea leaves are fully released to facilitate the growth of the *Eurotium cristatum* fungus, which forms the "golden flowers."

*Eurotium cristatum* on Liubao tea under a microscope.

Secondly, and most importantly, it requires that *Eurotium cristatum* either accidentally attaches to and survives and grows on the tea leaves during the production process of Liubao tea, or that it attaches to and survives and grows on the dried tea during the subsequent aging process. This is the most difficult aspect, as it is difficult to control artificially and involves a great deal of randomness and uncertainty.

Furthermore, during the post-processing storage and aging of tea leaves, appropriate temperature and humidity conditions are required. Only in such an environment can *Eurotium cristatum* continue to grow without disappearing.

As mentioned above, the growth of *Eurotium cristatum* requires three essential factors: raw materials, the fungal strain, and the storage environment.  Therefore, the "golden flowers" (referring to the *Eurotium cristatum* mold) in Liubao tea are relatively rare.

Regarding The Packaging Cover Art For Our Two Newly Launched High-end 100G Pu'er Tea Cakes

The painting "Lady Guoguo's Spring Outing" currently
housed in the Liaoning Provincial Museum in China.

Our two newly launched high-end Puerh 100G Cakes

The cover art for our two newly launched high-end Pu-erh tea cakes features a portion of "Lady Guoguo's Spring Outing," one of the representative works of Zhang Xuan, a renowned female painter from the Tang Dynasty of China. "Lady Guoguo's Spring Outing" depicts Lady Guoguo, the sister of Yang Guifei (the beloved concubine of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty), and her entourage of eight riders and nine people enjoying a spring outing. The figures in the painting have a relaxed demeanor and graceful movements, and their clothing is light and vibrant. Lady Guoguo, riding a dappled horse, appears elegant and dignified, with a full and radiant face. The other attendants are shown holding the reins, raising their whips, or gazing ahead, reflecting the confident and optimistic spirit of the prosperous Tang Dynasty. This work is a long scroll painting on silk. In terms of composition, it employs a balanced arrangement, with the figures and horses arranged in a well-proportioned and rhythmic manner; the lines are delicate yet strong, flowing and natural; the colors are predominantly warm, elegant, and opulent without being vulgar; and in terms of technique, the entire painting is highly realistic, with a lively and bright style and a decorative quality. "Lady Guoguo's Spring Outing" reflects the flourishing appearance of the Tang Dynasty and also indirectly reflects the extravagant and luxurious lifestyle of the court nobility at that time.

The Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) is widely regarded as the most powerful, open, and prosperous empire in the world at that time. It was a center of international exchange, and its political system, economic strength, and cultural influence radiated throughout East Asia, inspiring countries such as Japan and Silla to adopt its model. It attracted merchants, monks, and scholars from around the globe, and was a true golden age in Chinese history. Its openness, strength, and prosperity had a profound impact on world civilization, leaving behind the glorious imprint of the "Splendid Tang Dynasty."

The gilded tea set from the Tang dynasty imperial court, discovered in 1987 in the underground palace of Famen Temple in Shaanxi province, is now housed in the Famen Temple Museum in Shaanxi, China.

The Tang Dynasty was a crucial period for the rise and flourishing of Chinese tea culture. Tea transitioned from medicinal use to daily consumption, integrating into court life, literati culture, religious practices, and folk customs. Lu Yu's "The Classic of Tea" laid the foundation for the tea ceremony, and the method of drinking tea evolved from the early "tea soup" to "brewed tea," giving rise to the tribute tea system and the exquisite court tea culture with its fine tea sets, making tea a "national drink" and spreading it to the world.

The prevalence of tea drinking in China began in the Tang Dynasty. In the early Tang Dynasty, although some people in the north drank tea, the custom of tea drinking was mainly confined to the southeastern and southwestern regions.  Hence the saying, "Southerners are fond of drinking tea, while northerners initially did not drink much." In the early 8th century, Emperor Suzong of Tang ordered a ban on alcohol, and people began to substitute tea for wine, leading to the spread of tea drinking in the north. After the Kaiyuan era, tea drinking became widespread. Feng Yan's *Fengshi Wenjian Ji* (Records of Things Heard and Seen by Feng) from the Tang Dynasty vividly describes how the custom of tea drinking spread through imitation, eventually becoming a widespread custom. At that time, from Shandong Province to Henan Province and then to Shaanxi Province, many towns had tea shops, and tea was readily available everywhere. Most of the tea produced in the south was transported to the north along the Grand Canal. Tea consumption spread from the south to the central plains, and then from the central plains to the regions beyond the Great Wall.

The flourishing of tea drinking in the Tang Dynasty was closely related to tea production and the level of social civilization. The main tea-producing areas in the Tang Dynasty spanned 43 prefectures and counties across eight major tea-producing regions: Shannan, Huainan, Zhejiang West, Zhejiang East, Jiannan, Qianzhong, Jiangnan, and Lingnan, essentially forming the framework of modern tea-producing areas. "Many people in Jiangnan made their living by growing tea," and the industry gradually developed towards specialization and commercialization.

The flourishing of tea culture and the improvement of tea-drinking taste in the Tang Dynasty also benefited from the efforts of people like Lu Yu. The publication of Lu Yu's *The Classic of Tea* transformed the ordinary act of tea drinking into a cultural phenomenon full of charm and poetry, giving tea ceremony the aesthetic meaning of calming the mind and refreshing the spirit. As Mei Yaochen of the Song Dynasty said, "Since Lu Yu was born into the world, people have been learning from him about spring tea."

At the same time, "tea god worship" also became part of tea customs. From the mid-Tang Dynasty onwards, Lu Yu was revered as the "Tea God," and he was worshipped in tea workshops, tea warehouses, tea shops, tea houses, and various tea-producing areas, a tradition that has continued for a thousand years. In some places, Lu Tong and Pei Wen were also worshipped as accompanying deities. Many couplets in tea shops and teahouses feature Lu Yu, such as "Lu Yu compiled the classic, Lu Tong quenched his thirst; Wuyi tea was selected, and Gu Zhu tea shared its fragrance," and "The lively fire brews the spring water, increasing the value of Lu Yu's and Lu Tong's works; the spring breeze sips the tea, appreciating the quality of the tea leaves."

The Tang Dynasty tea sets unearthed from Famen Temple are of extremely high research value.  They not only showcase the exquisite craftsmanship of Tang Dynasty court tea ware (gold, silver, and glass artifacts), with their precious materials and elegant forms, but also serve as tangible evidence of Tang Dynasty court tea culture, the integration of Buddhist and Taoist cultures, and East-West exchange. Their decorative patterns (such as flying horses and lotus petals) contain Buddhist elements, and the glass artifacts exhibit characteristics of Islamic culture.  They reveal rich information about Tang Dynasty court life, religious beliefs, and foreign trade. However, due to their age and the cultural discontinuity caused by subsequent wars, further in-depth research is still needed.  Below, we will examine just two artifacts to illustrate the significant differences between Tang Dynasty tea-drinking practices and those of later periods.

This gilded tea grinder was unearthed in 1987 from the underground palace of the Tang Dynasty Famen Temple Pagoda in Fufeng, Shaanxi Province. It is currently housed in the Famen Temple Museum. This artifact demonstrates that as early as the Tang Dynasty, the Chinese custom of drinking tea involved grinding the tea leaves first, then mixing the tea powder with water to form a paste before consumption. This provides evidence supporting the term "eating tea" found in ancient texts.

Tang Dynasty Gold and Silver Wire Woven Tea Cage - During the Tang Dynasty, tea was consumed in the form of compressed tea cakes. Before consumption, the tea cakes needed to be placed in a tea roasting cage, which was designed to absorb heat and easily release moisture, in order to dry the tea. While most tea roasting cages were made of woven bamboo, the one unearthed at Famen Temple is a Tang Dynasty imperial tea utensil, woven with gold and silver threads to reflect its noble status.

Do you know about China's "seven major dark teas"?

China's "Seven Major Dark Teas" typically refer to the seven main producing regions or representative varieties of Chinese dark tea, which mainly include: Hunan dark tea (Anhua dark tea), Hubei Qingzhuan tea, Sichuan Tibetan tea (Bian tea), Yunnan dark tea (Pu-erh ripe tea), Guangxi Liubao tea, Shaanxi Fuzhuan tea, and Anhui Guyi dark tea. Each of these dark teas has its own unique characteristics and a long history.

Seven Major Types of Dark Tea and Their Characteristics

Hunan Dark Tea (Anhua Dark Tea): Produced in Anhua, Hunan, it is considered the originator of dark tea, known for its "pine smoke aroma" and mellow taste.  It includes series such as Fuzhuan, Qianliang, Heizhuan, and Sanjian.

Hubei Qingzhuan Tea: Made from aged green tea leaves, pressed into brick shapes, also known as "Dongzhuan" or "Chuanzi Tea." It has an orange-red liquor, a strong aroma, and a mellow taste.

Sichuan Tibetan Tea (Bian Tea): Primarily from Ya'an, it is a classic dark tea, historically an important tea for Tibet, with a mellow and smooth taste.

Yunnan Dark Tea (Pu-erh Ripe Tea): Made from Yunnan large-leaf varieties, fermented through a specific process, it has a unique aged aroma and a lingering sweet aftertaste.

Guangxi Liubao Tea: Produced in Liubao, Wuzhou, known for its "red, strong, aged, and mellow" characteristics, and a unique betel nut flavor.

Shaanxi Fuzhuan Tea: Produced in Jingyang, Shaanxi, it features a unique "flowering" process during production and is known as the "tea of ​​life for ethnic minorities in Northwest China."

Anhui Guyi Dark Tea (An Tea): A dark tea produced in Anhui, the finished product is dark black, with a strong, slightly reddish liquor, and an aromatic yet slightly astringent taste.

These dark teas are all post-fermented teas, suitable for long-term storage, and possess unique health benefits, such as lowering blood lipids and regulating the digestive system.

A Chronicle Of Ripe Pu'er Tea Featuring Prominent Figures, Historical events, And Renowned Tea Factories(3)

Xiaguan Tea Factory: 7663 (1975), Tuocha Sold to France(1976)

Founded in 1941, Kangzang Tea Factory-the predecessor of Xiaguan Tea Factory

In 1952, all companies within the China Tea Company system uniformly used the "Zhongcha" brand. Xiaguan Tea Factory began producing Seven Sons Cake Tea. Entering the 1960s, due to raw material allocation plans and the division of labor in processing products, Xiaguan Tea Factory focused on Tuocha and compressed tea as its main products, producing only a small amount of round tea, with the majority planned for Menghai Tea Factory.

Early Xiaguan Tuocha 

In 1953, through experimentation, the tea factory changed the method of kneading tea cakes from being rolled into round shapes in cloth bags and then pressed with 18-kilogram lead cakes to directly steaming and pressing them in aluminum steamers.

Trademarks of Xiaguan Tuo from different periods.

In 1955, with the approval of the provincial company, the compressed tea specification changed from a heart shape to a brick shape. Ten tons were initially produced for trial sales in Lijiang and other places to solicit consumer feedback. In the same year, the provincial company notified the tea factory to conduct artificial post-fermentation experiments on exported compressed tea. The shape of Xiaguan Tea Factory's Seven Sons Cake Tea changed from a concave bottom to a flat bottom.

In 1958, a successful experiment with high-temperature, rapid artificial post-fermentation shortened the fermentation cycle and reduced costs.

In 1973, the Kunming Tea Factory adopted the principle of pile fermentation for compressed tea from the Xiaguan Tea Factory, further accelerating the process with high-temperature, high-humidity artificial post-fermentation to produce the Yunnan Pu'er tea (ripe tea) we know today.

In 1975, trial production of Pu'er Tuocha (ripe tea) was conducted. In 1976, bulk exports of Tuocha (7663) were made specifically for Hong Kong's Tian Sheng Hang, which then exclusively sold it in the French market.

In 1976, the provincial company held a province-wide Pu'er tea production conference, requiring the Kunming, Menghai, and Xiaguan factories to increase production of Pu'er tea (pile fermented ripe tea) and deciding on tea product markings. Xiaguan Tea Factory's markings began with 76 and ended with 3.

In 1978, the provincial company assigned the production plan for Xiaguan Tea Factory's small-volume round tea (Seven Sons Cake Tea) to the Menghai Tea Factory for processing.

Kunming Tea Factory: 7581 Pu-erh Ripe Brick (75 Years)

In 1973, personnel from four tea factories visited Guangdong Province to study pile fermentation technology. The Xiaguan Tea Factory completed the initial ripening process, while the Kunming Tea Factory further humidified and heated the process to complete the established wet pile fermentation technique, which is what is now known as ripe Pu-erh tea. Historical records indicate that the initial experimental tea was known in the market as "Jujube-scented Thick Brick," while the mass-produced tea was "73 Thick Brick."

73 Thick Brick

The 7581 Kunming Ripe Brick was the mainstream ripe brick tea on the market before 1994, with its peak production period being from 1988 to 1994.

During this period, the Kunming Tea Factory primarily exported tea under the brands Jixing and Jinji. Jixing Golden Melon Tribute Tea and Jinji Tuocha were well-known teas of this period, although production was limited.

The most important process in processing ripe Pu-erh tea: Piling (渥堆)

Those unfamiliar with tea might not even know the pronunciation of "piling," but seasoned tea drinkers know it's the most crucial part of the ripe Pu-erh tea processing. It directly affects the taste of the finished tea and carries a certain risk; a mistake can ruin the tea.

The piling process seems simple—after the fresh leaves are withered and dried to form raw tea, they are piled into a small mound, sprinkled with water, covered with a cloth, and allowed to ferment. Experienced tea masters will periodically turn the tea leaves and sprinkle water to control the temperature of the pile and the fermentation environment.

Piling

Generally, piling lasts about a month. However, in recent years, some manufacturers have modified the process to reduce the musty smell and improve the flavor, using low temperatures, frequent small amounts of water, and longer fermentation times, sometimes reaching up to three months.

Piling

Pu-erh tea that has undergone piling has a clear, reddish-brown color and a mellow, sweet taste. Unlike raw Pu-erh tea, ripe Pu-erh is very mild, with very little stimulation to the body. Long-term consumption can even have a stomach-nourishing and bowel-regulating effect. However, if the processing techniques are not sophisticated and the tea masters lack experience, the fermentation process itself carries risks. The most common problem is burning the pile, where excessively high temperatures cause the tea leaves at the center of the pile to turn black and carbonize, rendering them undrinkable.

Besides this, an immature fermentation process can also have negative effects on the tea. If the tea leaves are extremely dry and scorched like firewood, it's likely that the center was burned during fermentation; if the leaves are too soft and crumble easily, it's probably due to poor moisture control during fermentation, resulting in too much moisture. Furthermore, the burnt or musty taste found in some ripe Pu-erh teas is also highly likely to be caused by negative effects during fermentation. Therefore, tea factories typically employ experienced masters to oversee the fermentation process.

The End