It seems unbelievable that the summer has passed and I haven’t really had any cycling adventures at; a combination of bad weather, rising accommodation prices and generally been busy with other things. I had been doing regular twenty or thirty mile rides all summer so had at least maintained an acceptable level of fitness but hadn’t been doing any touring or even the long, meandering day-rides I like to do in summer.

I felt the need to make some sort of plan to do something before the dark evenings set in for winter. September has traditionally been my preferred month for touring anyway as you often get decent weather, the days are still long enough and many places are quieter as the schools and colleges have gone back. I started looking around at what I could do. The good thing that had happened this year was the return of the Kintyre Express services from Ballycastle so I decided to go to visit the Isle of Islay. I could book a return ticket from Ballycastle to Port Ellen. The service only operates Friday to Monday so I could go on a Friday and return on the Monday; giving myself a long weekend on the Island. The decision was made when I was able to book a bed in the Port Charlotte Youth Hostel for a very reasonable price. I booked the ferry and hostel a few weeks in advance. I had never been to Islay before so I was looking forward to experiencing something new. The island isn’t very big in the great scheme of things but I could also make a day-trip to the nearby Isle of Jura.

I had considered making a proper tour of it and taking my touring bike and riding to Ballycastle on the Thursday and spending the night and again staying in Ballycastle on the Monday night and riding home on the Tuesday. I tried to book the Ballycastle Backpackers Hostel where I had stayed in the past but the proprietor was going away for her own holiday so I couldn’t stay there. Unable to get any affordably priced accommodation, I decided I would just drive to Ballycastle early on the Friday morning and leave the car in Ballycastle.

So, with all packed up the night before, I made my way to Ballycastle, enjoying the lightly trafficked roads in the early part of the journey. I arrived in Ballycastle earlier than I had expected and had most of an hour to wait for my 9:30 AM sailing on board the Kintyre Express. The weather looked promising as the early morning mist began to burn off and it looked like it would be a smooth crossing, never a guarantee as the seas around Rathlin Island are often rough.

I went for a walk along Ballycastle beach for a while before getting ready for departure. I had decided to bring my Brompton on this trip. It travels easier by car and carries luggage well. Also, I was going to a small island which seemed to be pretty flat according to the maps I looked at so I didn’t need a huge range of gears. I like my Brompton for touring, it’s practical and relaxing to ride. Touring, for me, is more about taking the time look around and stop and enjoy the view, rather than attempt to set personal bests. A Brompton lends itself to that type of riding. Any three-speed bike does really, but a Brompton is easier to transport.

The ferry operators store the bikes (there were a few other cyclists) outside while asking us to remove our luggage which is then stored in the hold of the boat. This is a fast ferry, and covers the trip to Port Ellen in just over an hour. I had travelled on this boat once before when going to Campbeltown on the Mull of Kintyre in 2019 so I knew what to expect. Travelling on this boat is more like being in a small aeroplane as you are supposed to stay in your seats and there are even seatbelts. At speed, on rougher seas, it is very rough as the boat crashes through waves. This is really a big speed boat. However, as this was such a calm day, we were allowed out to the outer deck on this occasion and it gave a good opportunity to see Rathlin up close, including two of its famous lighthouses.

 Once docked in Port Ellen, the luggage was unloaded and I was able to re-attach my bags to the bike. As has become my normal touring routine on the Brompton, I had my front T-Bag and my Carradice Saddle bag. I could have put everything in the front bag but I prefer to split the weight. The front of a Brompton is very convenient for carrying loads and in my opinion, a load on the front improves the handling of a Brompton. Despite this, I am always wary of putting too much weight on the front luggage block for long trips. Perhaps I’m being overly cautious. I really must find out if there actually is a recommended weight limit on the Brompton luggage block.

It was nearly eleven o’clock by the time I was ready to set off. I had a much earlier than usual breakfast so was starting to feel hungry already. I always find sea air always makes me feel hungry anyway.  I decided I would find a café in Port Ellen and eat before going on my way. I had barely gone more than a few hundred yards before suffering a rear puncture. Hopefully it wasn’t going to be one of those days! I removed the T-bag and my tool kit and turned the bike upside and set to work. People make a lot of fuss about how difficult it is to remove the rear wheel of a Brompton but I’ve found once I did it the first time and worked out how the chain tensioner works, it is no big deal. Of course, like all Sturmey-Archer hub equipped bicycles, you need to remove the gear cable. On a large-wheeled bike with hub gearing, I probably would just remove one side of the tyre with the wheel in-situ but with the smaller wheel size, removing the tyre is never quite as easy.

It was easy to locate the puncture as I could clearly see the piece of wire that had somehow pierced the sidewall of the tyre, missing the puncture protection layer. This one could be put down to bad luck but it is always nice to see an easily visible cause of the punctured tube as you know where look to find the hole and patch it, and you can be certain you have removed the problem from the tyre. Sometimes with punctures caused by pieces of glass or small flints, it can be tricky trying to find the problem. I did have spare tubes anyway but just patched it as it was a nice day and the rubber solution dries well in the sunshine. Punctures in the rain on dark, unlit roads are never as easy, but sadly more common! The secret of doing this is to prepare the tube properly. I always carry some sandpaper for this purpose in my puncture repair kit. The tube needs to be roughened and if there are any raised lines on the tube, they need to be sanded off or the patch won’t sit properly. Then apply and spread a layer of rubber solution and let it dry before applying the patch. I have a preference for Rima Tip-Top puncture repair kits as I feel they are much better than the ones from bargain basement stores.

I was quickly on my way again, albeit with filthy hands. I often think about adding a pair of rubber gloves to my touring kit so I can do these things without getting oil from the chain on my hands but I never do and forget until the next time something goes wrong. I located a café, ordered my late breakfast/early lunch and washed my hands in the toilet whilst I waited on my food.

I was then able to start my Islay adventure properly with a full stomach and topped up energy supplies! I had booked the Youth Hostel in Port Charlotte but it wasn’t too far away and I had all afternoon and the sun was shining. I decided to extend my ride and explore a bit so I headed off in the completely the wrong direction to see what I might find. I found three whisky distilleries and a very nice off-road path that linked them together as a shared use path ran alongside the admittedly lowly trafficked A-road.

Whisky is of course what the island is famous for; it is in many ways the capital of the Scottish Whisky industry. Laphroaig, Lagavulin, and Ardbeg are all famous whisky producers located just a few miles outside of Port Ellen. They would be the first of many distilleries I would encounter in the coming days. I didn’t go inside any of them, just took photos of the outside. These are all old characterful old buildings and clearly popular tourist destinations. I was speaking to some Germans who had come on a “whisky holiday” and were walking around to all the distilleries on the island to sample the different whiskies. I can definitely see the appeal of doing so. I didn’t really want to start my afternoon ride with a wee dram though so I continued on my way.

I back-tracked back into Port Ellen and continued on the correct road towards Bowmore and Port Charlotte this time. There is another distillery on this side of Port Ellen (called Port Ellen). I believe Port Ellen distillery originally closed in 1983 but has recently been re-opened following a huge investment. There is a rum distillery in Port Ellen too and there is also a gin distillery on the island. The rum and gin are much more recent but the whisky heritage of the island dates back hundreds of years as it was a perfect place to make whisky, well away from the prying eyes of the dreaded excise man. With some good farmland for growing barley, peat to dry the malted barley and a plentiful supply of unpolluted fresh water, it was a perfect place to start a distillery. The use of peat to dry the malt is what gives the Islay malts their distinctive flavour which differentiates them from something like a Speyside whisky.

The coast road is a pleasant route with good sea views and despite being the main road, had little traffic. It is also mostly flat at this point and has many long straights that seem to go on for miles. It was an unusually calm day but I suspect this could be a very exposed route on a windy day. You pass the tiny airport and the Machrie Golf Links which are alongside Laggan Bay. There is also an inland option on a minor road but I saw little reason to take it so I continued on the A846 (the low road) to Bowmore. Bowmore is another pretty seaside town with a nice little harbour and also the Bowmore distillery, home of another of the famous Islay whiskies.

From Bowmore, continuing on the A846, you arrive in the village of Bridgend where I made my turn-off for Port Charlotte/Portnahaven. The road continues to hug the coastline and remains mostly flat and brings you to Bruichladdich, home of yet another distillery. There is an off-road shared use path from Bruichladdich to Port Charlotte. I arrived in Port Charlotte much earlier than I had originally anticipated. I not used riding flat routes and it is surely rare to have a day without wind! I could have spent more time exploring. I decided it was too early to stop for the night. I bought basic groceries in the shop in Port Charlotte as I knew it closed quite early and then continued along the coast to Portnahaven. I think this was the most interesting bit of today’s cycling. The terrain becomes a little more challenging and the scenery becomes more interesting. Portnahaven is a lovely little seaside village with some nice views.

After sitting on the seafront for a little while, I re-traced my steps back to Port Charlotte and checked into the Youth Hostel and had a shower before preparing my evening meal. I had covered about forty-five miles today, all at a leisurely pace but that is the whole point of a trip like this. I went to the public bar of the Port Charlotte Hotel where I sampled a locally produced IPA and dram of Bowmore. I don’t think you could come to this island and not sample the whisky.

Saturday dawned somewhat overcast, a stark contrast to the previous day which was the warmest and sunniest I remember since the middle of June. It was still very warm though. Hot, sticky, humid weather is my least favourite kind. Today would be my big adventure. I had a vague plan to ride to Port Askaig and possibly take the ferry to Feolin on the Isle of Jura. I was putting myself under no pressure. The whole purpose of this weekend was to relax and unwind after a stressful few months at work.

After breakfast, I set off on my way along the A846 again. I was able to leave my saddle bag and basically all my luggage at the hostel; the advantage of touring from a fixed base. I would have to go back to Bridgend before taking the turning to Port Askaig. The road is mostly pretty flat here too, although you are surrounded by hills which take on an eerie mysterious feel in the morning mist and drizzle. Cycling on days like this always give something of a conundrum. Do you get wet from the light rain or do you put on waterproofs and get wet from sweating under the waterproof fabric on what is still a very warm day.

There were various turnoffs available to me to take me to more distilleries and other visitor attractions but I ignored them and kept going. I might check out some of them on the way back, time permitting. As you approach Port Askaig, the road suddenly drops down a long, steep descent into Port Askaig with several hairpin-like bends to negotiate. This is a good test of brakes. Fortunately, the relatively short reach dual pivot calliper brakes on a Brompton are perfectly adequate for the task. This is why I shy away from touring on my 1951 rod-braked Rudge roadster even though I often fancy the idea. On a wet day on a hill like this, the brakes would be completely ineffective. I met a few other cyclists coming pushing their bikes up the incline in the opposite direction.

In Port Askaig, you find a hotel/bar, a shop and post office and the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry terminal which is bigger and better equipped than I was expecting although it’s probably more for the benefit of the people using the larger ferry for their journey to Kennacraig. Tickets for my short ferry journey to Jura are bought onboard the ferry and not at the ticket office in the ferry terminal building. I bought some food to have in the time-warp Port Askaig stores as I waited for my ferry. I wanted to make sure I had something to eat as I wasn’t sure what I would find on Jura.

The iconic Paps of Jura were hidden in the mist as I boarded the ferry. The sea was still very calm for the short crossing across the Sound of Islay to the ferry terminal at Feolin. The Feolin terminal is much less impressive, just a shelter. I headed on my way along the single-track road. There isn’t much road on the Isle of Jura but it must be one of the best cycle routes to be found anywhere. With so little traffic, stunning scenery of sea, mountains, rivers, peat bogs, stone walls, old woodland and some interesting old buildings, it has basically everything you could wish for. The only downside is the cycle-unfriendly cattle grids with four-inch gaps between the bars. They are definitely not for small-wheeled bicycles and care is needed not to twist an ankle when walking over them.

I passed the Jura distillery. Jura has always been one of my favourite Scotch whiskies so in some ways it was something of a pilgrimage. I decided against visiting the distillery itself though as I have done tours of distilleries in both Scotland and Ireland in the past so know the basic process and I didn’t want to buy anything to have to carry it back. The normal Jura single malt is easily available in Tesco’s anyway so there would be little point in buying a bottle here and my budget probably doesn’t stretch to their more exclusive offerings! I did stop for lunch at a café close by to the distillery and bought my lunch and ate it outside as it had stopped drizzling. I was downwind of the distillery and enjoyed the sweet scents of the whisky-making process which hung in the air as I ate my food.

I didn’t quite exhaust all the available road on Jura. I didn’t have any detailed maps but any map I seen just seemed to show the one coastal road I was using leading to a dead end so there was no option for doing a loop of the island. Rather than continue, I decided to return to the ferry. I still had to return to Port Charlotte and I wanted to go to the supermarket in Bowmore which would add a few miles extra. Also, I think the ferry becomes less frequent after 5 p.m.

I turned and retraced my steps on the island’s only road. It was still very calm and humid and the overcast skies with drizzle or the hint of drizzle remained all day. I arrived back at the ferry terminal with seconds to spare which saved waiting for half an hour or more until it came back again. I had obviously correctly judged the correct place to turn around!

From Port Askaig, I knew I had a long 14% hill to climb and I had assumed I would have to walk most of it but I was able to climb it without too much difficulty. It confirms my view that if you gear a Sturmey Archer hub correctly, it will be adequate for most situations. Unfortunately, many three-speed bikes are too high geared from the factory and need a larger sprocket.

I continued along the road I came but this time, taking the time for some detours, to other whisky distilleries. I really liked the Caol Ila distillery, it has a beautiful setting and its own pier. I believe they once owned their own Steam Puffer to transport their produce to the mainland. I believe 95% of their output goes into the Johnny Walker blends. I believe Johnny Walker is the world’s best-selling whisky brand and has an interesting history in itself. The original Johnny Walker was tee-total but started blending whiskies in his grocery shop in Kilmarnock to suit his customer’s tastes and his son, Alec, expanded on that and showed some marketing ingenuity. Johnny Walker whisky is always sold in square bottles as they could fit more in a crate and that made it easier to transport them on the new Kilmarnock railway line. The label on a bottle of Johnny Walker is always at a very precise angle as it is possible to use bigger writing and make it more noticeable. The angle was set as any more of an angle, it became more difficult to read the label. Alec Walker was actually far ahead of his time in terms of his marketing ability. Caol Ila also sell some own brand single malts.

I also visited the Islay Woollen Mill which is just off the A846 and down a short gravel road, Unfortunately, it was closed when I was there but it was nice to have a look around the outside. The mill dates from the 1880s. I don’t know much about its history but I made the assumption it was originally powered by a waterwheel. I believe they still have two working 1920s looms inside. It would have been nice to have seen them working but I continue my long tradition of arriving at tourist attractions at the wrong time to visit!

From there, I made the detour to Bowmore and bought some groceries in the supermarket as I knew the shop at Port Charlotte would be closed before, I got back there. I made the six-mile journey back to Port Charlotte and had a shower and made my evening meal before relaxing for the evening. I had covered just over sixty miles for the day.

My penultimate day on the island dawned more promising than the previous day. There was a bit of a breeze but the sky was blue and clear and the sun was beginning to shine. Today was to be my lazy day with no particular plan. Just ride and see where I ended up. After breakfast, I set off quite early. My only real plan for today had been to do a loop which leads from Port Charlotte to Kilchiaran and then down the west coast of the island to Portnahaven and Port Wemyss before going back to Port Charlotte. After that, I would make it up as I went along.

This route involved quite a bit of climbing but it was worth it. It passes through some beautiful scenery on its way to Kilchiaran and also past a ruined church. Then you can see the coast again as you head south towards Portnahaven. I had been in Portnahaven a few days previously but only quite briefly. I paid more attention this time before continuing on towards Port Charlotte. My route took me on to some unsealed road surfaces in places, something I always enjoy as a change from tarmac. The weather was still dry but overcast and breezy and I now found myself riding into headwind.

After completing the circular route back to Port Charlotte, I continued on my way back to Bridgend. I could see some minor roads to the north-west of the island marked on the maps and I had wanted to explore these. Near Bridgend, I took a left turn on to a minor road towards Coullabus and continued on that road all the Killinallan which leads you along Loch Gruinart. This road took me a dead end but was nice and peaceful. I don’t think I seen a single car.

I retraced my steps and cycled north along the west side of Loch Gruinart towards Ardnave. These roads were passing through the RSPB nature reserve and I saw a few birdwatched armed with binoculars on my travels. There is a visitors’ centre for the nature reserve but I didn’t visit.

I stopped to have a look at Kilnave Chapel which I found particularly interesting. Kilnave chapel (now a ruin) dates from the late fourteenth century. Just in front of it stands Kilnave cross which is even more interesting than the ruined chapel. It dates from the eighth century and isn’t particularly well preserved but it is very interesting to see. I took time to have a look around the graveyard too. It is always interesting to do so and read a few random gravestones as sometimes interesting things can be learned. It was interesting to note that some had mentioned that the deceased were managers of the some of the distilleries on the island, evidence of the importance of the whisky industry to island life. I also noted the grave of Horseman J, Linton who was noted as having been lost on the S.S. Englishman in 1916. I had never heard of this ship but assumed a wartime connection. I’ve since looked into it and seems the S.S. Englishman was a Liverpool Steamer which was lost just thirty miles North-East of Malin Head following a hit from a German torpedo on 24^th March, 1916.

I continued my ride through the nature reserve and to Samaigmore and to Coull and to Machir Bay which is a beautiful beach, the nicest I had seen on my travels around the island. I also done a loop of Loch Gorm and stopped briefly at Kilchoman distillery which I believe is attached to a farm before making my way along the B8018 back to Kentraw and then the now familiar return journey to Port Charlotte through Bruichladdich on the A847. Just as an example of how localised the weather patterns can be on an exposed island like this, on the road heading south from Kilchoman, I was caught in a complete torrential downpour and got well and truly soaked on the inland section, yet when I reached the coast road, the road was bone-dry with absolutely no evidence of the there having been a thunderous downpour. Despite getting wet, I had had an enjoyable day. Relaxed days without a proper plan and the freedom to go where the fancy takes you are very often the most enjoyable. Despite intending to make this a simple, easy day, I was surprised to see I had clocked up in excess of sixty miles for the second day in a row. Today was the most challenging too with quite a lot of gradient and also sometimes tough headwinds which necessitated grinding along in first or second gear. It was nice to get freshened up and fed and watered and to relax for the evening.

Monday, which was to be my last (half) day on the island looked promising with blue skies and not much cloud. There had been a notable change in the weather though as it was now colder with a fresh breeze in contrast to the sticky heat of the previous few days. After breakfast and a final walk around Port Charlotte, I loaded up my Brompton ready for the return journey to Port Ellen. My ferry back to Ballycastle was to be a 3:30PM sailing so I had all the time in the world to get there. I would make today a leisurely ride.

There was a sudden and heavy shower before I reached Bowmore but it passed quickly. Progress was slow along the coast road back to Port Ellen. Partly because I was in no hurry and partly because of the headwind. The road along the coast here is flat and straight for miles on end and as is often the case in such places, with little coverage or shelter, there was quite a strong headwind. I miss my Donegal hills which usually provide a shelter! It was nice to take it easy though, just to enjoy the ride and see the things I hadn’t noticed on Friday when I was riding thins road in the opposite direction.

I reached Port Ellen just after midday. I had lunch in a café, my last meal on the Isle of Islay. I had a couple of hours to kill before the need to go to the harbour to check in on board the Kintyre Express. I possibly should have gone to have a quick look at the Mull of Oa and the American Monument. Instead, I decided for the easy option and having a look at the distilleries again.

I made my way along the Three Distillery Path again, a very nice shared-use path in its own right and took the time this time to have a look around the distilleries’ shops and visitor centres and view the many whiskies on sale, some priced at up to £2,000 per bottle and other things like t-shirts and hip flasks as well as learn a little of the history of these three famous distilleries (Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg). The whisky industry is worth an absolute fortune to the Scottish economy and the gift shops and tours actually forms a large part of the distilleries’ income too. I was on Islay just to sightsee and cycle mostly but there is a large influx of visitors annually, just to see the distilleries and sample their wares, not just on Islay but in the other whisky regions like Speyside and Campbeltown.

I made my way back to Port Ellen Marina and loaded my bike on to the Kintyre Express, ready for the return back to Ballycastle. I really enjoyed my time on Islay and Jura and despite the relatively small size of the islands, I could quite easily have spent another few days as there were places that I didn’t get to. There are also many other options to expand a tour to Islay by taking ferries to other islands or the Mull of Kintyre. The friendliness of the natives made this a memorable tour and it was with some sadness that I watched Port Ellen fade to the horizon as the boat left the harbour. The island is very welcoming and despite not being a large island, it has a few interesting routes to cycle and a laid-back pace of life quite different to more populated places these days. I had managed to cover in excess of two hundred miles in a long weekend. I would happily go back to do it all again and fill in the places I missed!