Part I of this narrative can be found here…

When I originally thought about coming to Kintyre, I thought about spending a night on the Isle of Gigha on the west coast of Kintyre. The cost of accommodation on the island, or any mainland hostelry anywhere on the west side close to the ferry port of Tayinloan made me drop that idea and persuaded me to cycle up the east side instead. I was intending to have a leisurely day around Carradale. Then I was studying the OS map of the area that I found in the hotel bar and spotted that it was possible to cross the peninsula using unclassified roads through the forest and past the windfarms. The distance wasn’t huge, although it was going to be another hilly ride. I could make a daytrip after all to Gigha.

After breakfast I made a quick trip around Carradale Harbour before heading north on The Caledonia Way. I found the right turn that would take me coast to coast across Kintyre. It was unmetalled, but that was okay. I was riding an old mountain bike with two-inch wide tyres. The road takes you past an old cemetery and a few cottages. After that, I managed to make a wrong turning! After riding for about two hours, I ended up back on a road again. I didn’t know where I was so turned right. I found myself in Grogport, and realised I was back on The Caledonia Way, just slightly further north than I had started. It was hard to have any real reference point with so many trees around and I had never been there before either. I should probably have asked to borrow the OS from the hotel. I had no mobile signals either to help me out with navigation. I ate my lunch on the picnic benches in Grogport and went back to the start again. A lot of climbing is involved around here with 14% and 16% hills.

I arrived back at where I had originally turned off the road, some three hours later! I did know where I had made the mistake all the same, so decided to try again. I was pleased I did. This was to be one of the most enjoyable day awheel that I have ever had. A lot of trees, but also lots of places to have spectacular views from the top of the hills. A chance to get up close to wind turbines. (Which some people seem to hate but I’ve always found them fascinating, and much less of a blight on the landscape than a coal-fired power station. I assume those who complain about them don’t use electricity!) It was also so peaceful away from the traffic. This must have been what cycling was like around about the time of the Great War, before the motorcar arrived and bullied pedestrians, cyclists and horses off the roads with their perceived superiority. The only traffic I seen were the construction lorries going to the windfarm.

I was always greeted with a cheery wave from the lorry drivers. Some even stopped to talk and ask where I was going and where I was coming from and to make suggestions. I doubt their Irish equivalents would have been so cycle-friendly. I suppose a big part of it is that I always held over to let them pass if they came up behind me, as there is little point in me holding them up and it makes their working day easier. Some people seem to forget that respect is a two-way process.

The climb to top was not easy and I rode for seemingly miles on my 28-tooth granny gear and on occasion wished it was smaller. But I made it eventually, and of course what goes up must come down. I had an easy ride back down to civilisation where I joined the A83. It didn’t seem to be particularly busy and again, the respect shown to cyclists by Scottish drivers is alien to anyone used to the north of Ireland.

I did ride to Tayinloan. It was quite late in the evening by now. I had wasted a lot of time in the morning with my navigational error; some of the really steep climbing had slowed progress to crawl. I had also made no real effort to hurry. I was in the mood for leisurely cycling and enjoying the peace and quiet of the road less travelled. I decided it was hardly worthwhile taking the ferry to Gigha. Instead, I had food at the little shop/café at the ferry terminal. Shops and places to eat are few and far between in remote Kintyre so best to take advantage of it when it was there. I did have food but I could keep it for later.

I went back to the hotel in Carradale using the same route as I had come. The lorries had stopped now for the evening so it was even more peaceful. I stopped even more often than I did on the outward leg of my journey. It was just so peaceful with barely a breeze to disturb the trees and the sound of the birds singing and gentle running water in the streams and burns. The cuckoo could be heard in places. When I got back to the hotel around 7:30, I had covered around fifty miles. They were certainly tough miles, but they gave me a sense of achievement and after such a peaceful day, I felt so relaxed and at peace with the world. It was by far my longest ever off-road ride, and showed why suspension mountain bikes had developed as I was aware of a tingling sensation in my wrists from spending so much time riding on unmetalled roads which were often very rough. I wouldn’t like to have spent the day doing technical off-road riding like the modern mountain bikers do.

The next day, it was time to pack up again. I always hate packing up when touring. It seems things never seem to fit back into the same space again. It adds quite a bit of weight to the bike too, but today would be a relatively short day. I had accommodation booked in Tarbert but had no other particular plans. Today would be the easy day yesterday was originally supposed to have been before I discovered my off-road routes.

There is a small community owned shop near Carradale and I stocked up with a few bits and pieces for the journey before continuing on my way. I continued along Caledonia Way. (Which is the B842 road which leads up the east side of Kintyre – mostly single track but lightly trafficked.) It’s riding on roads like these that highlights yet again the difference in attitude between Scottish drivers and drivers in the north of Ireland as oncoming drivers will usually wait at passing places until you have passed. That rarely happens at home. They will also wait behind until I hold over or it’s safe to overtake. It’s why I like cycling in Scotland.

The B842 took me through Grogport, which I had passed through yesterday when I had accidentally cycled in a loop back to where I started. The coastline is nice around, but like most parts of the east side of Kintyre, it is hilly with quite a few 14% and 16% hills. My 28/32 bottom gear is low enough to climb these, even with luggage. You also need to have good brakes when going downhill again as it would be possible to pick up a lot of speed on hills like this if you didn’t control it, especially with so much weight on the bike.

When you get to Clonaig, there is a fork in the road where I could continue left to join the main road to Tarbert or go right to where the ferry port to Arran is. I wouldn’t be going to Arran just yet, but I initially took the right which also leads to Skipness and Skipness castle. Castle ruins come in many forms. I found Skipness one of the more interesting ones I’ve come across on my travels.

The main structure was built in the thirteenth century by Clan MacSween and there were later additions in the thirteenth, fourteenth and sixteenth centuries. The Castle was taken over by James VI in 1594 and came into possession of Archibald Campbell, 2^nd Earl of Argyll in 1511. The castle was besieged and later abandoned in the seventeenth century.  Today, it is still an impressive sight and surprisingly well preserved. It is under the care of Historic Environment Scotland and admission to the castle and grounds are free. You can climb the steps to the top of the tower house which gives a commanding view of the area. You can see why they used this site for defence. Nearby the castle, there is also a fish restaurant a smoke house. I didn’t want a large meal but did have some light refreshments while there. A wonderful place to sit and relax in the shadows of the castle and with sea views.

I rode back to Clonaig and on towards Tarbert. You join the A83 for the last few miles into the town of Tarbert. The A83 didn’t seem to be particularly busy. I landed in Tarbert at around three o’clock after my leisurely day’s riding and stopping.  It was unnaturally hot and humid and I felt tired and had a headache. I just felt relaxing so sat down by the harbour and watched the world go past for a while. Tarbert has a nice little harbour area.

Tarbert (Argyll) sits at the head of Loch Fynne on narrow stretch of land which separates East Loch Tarbert from West Loch Tarbert. Tarbert is an anglicised form of the Gaelic word Tairbeart, which refers to a narrow stretch of land separating two bodies of water. There are several other Tarberts in Scotland and at least one in Ireland that I know about). Tarbert has a long history as a port and also as a strategic point to guard Kintyre and the Inner Hebrides. It was guarded by three castles, one of which still exists today (and I would visit it before I left).

Magnus Barelegs came to the throne of Norway in 1093 AD, and set about plundering the Hebrides. In an agreement between Magnus and the Scottish King Malcom, Magnus was told he could have all the land he could sail around. Magnus’ longboat was carried over the narrow strip of land at Tarbert so they could claim Kintyre! It is for this reason that Kintyre is sometimes referred to as the Mainland Island.

It is amazing how you end up talking to many random strangers of all nationalities if you sit on a bench by the harbour with your touring bike beside you as people take an interest in what you are doing. I even managed to meet another from Ireland. He was there in a Ford Transit MK II, something I hadn’t seen in many years but remember fondly from my youth. It was built into a simple camper van he had done the opposite of what I had in mind for my return journey – Larne to Cairnryan, then to Troon and ferry to Arran, explore Arran for a few days, and then ferry to Clonaig. He also had bike in the van and had plans for some cycling himself.

After getting something to eat, I made my way back towards the West Loch where I would be staying for two nights, before going to Arran on Sunday. I would hopefully continue on and explore the Crinan canal tomorrow. I did later walk back into town and found live music in one of the pubs. I was talking to members of the band afterwards and it turns out they had played in Dungloe on a number of occasions. A small world!

The next day, I had a much longer ride planned. One of the things I recall from 2019 is the Crinan canal, and I had always meant to return spend a bit more time exploring it. Tarbert was not my first choice as base for doing so really, but I had struggled to find accommodation in Lochgilphead or the surrounding areas. Today would probably be the longest ride of the entire trip. Again, the advantages of staying two nights in the same place is the ability to leave your luggage whilst going off to explore the area.

I had an early breakfast and was soon on my way. It still felt unnaturally hot and humid, not my favourite weather conditions as it always seems to give me headaches and sinus issues. I felt okay once underway though. I had options. I could go on the A83 to Ardrishaig which would be the easiest, fastest route, or follow the NCN 78/Caledonia Way signs on meandering minor roads with less traffic, but more hills and worse surface. I decided to go the Sustrans route and come back using the easier A83.

The turn-off for the NCN 78 to Kilberry is just on the Kennacraig side of Tarbert, very close to where I was staying. Some climbing is involved before you reach Kilberry. This is a very remote and peaceful road. At Kilberry, you can see the Kilberry Stones, which are very interesting to see. There is a range of styles from early Christian to late Medieval. It’s thought they originated in a local parish Church which is thought to have burnt down in 1640.

From Kilberry, you continue mostly along the shore of Loch Cadisport before going back inland again and eventually rejoining the A83 near Ardrishaig. Ardrishaig lies on the shore of Loch Gilp. I’ve been here twice before. When I cycled this route in 2019, I did pass through it but have little recollection as it was pouring rain and I continued on to look for somewhere to stay for the night. I also visited here in 2022 when I sailed on board P.S. Waverley and we were ashore here for about an hour before the return trip to the Clyde.

It is a nice little harbour town with two piers, a slipway and lighthouse on the sea front. Then there is the canal basis as this is where the Crinan canal starts. I was looking forward to the next part of my ride along the canal towpath. There is something so relaxing about riding along the water and you often meet interesting people or see interesting things along canals. There is always historical things to note and learn as well.

The Crinan Canal opened in 1801 to provide a navigable route between the Firth of Clyde and the Inner Hebrides without the need to go around the Mull of Kintyre. The canal was the work of John Rennie and work began in 1794. Construction was beset with problems. Problems continued after it opened, including the bank bursting at Lochgilphead in 1805. Thomas Telford was brought in to make changes to it and it later became very successful. Queen Victoria sailed its length in 1847 when she was holidaying in the Scottish Highlands.

Today it is mostly pleasure craft that use it. It makes a really relaxing bike ride or walk. I stopped in Lochgilphead and ate my lunch in a café, before continuing on my way. It might be only nine miles in length, but it will usually take longer to cycle nine miles on a canal towpath than on a road. It will be flat of course, but you can’t really go fast for a variety of reasons. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing as we spend too much time rushing about in the modern world.

The highlight of the day happened when I found people with a scale model of the T.S. King George V, which underlines my point about the unexpected and interesting things you find when riding along canal towpaths! I wasn’t familiar with the T.S. King George V, but subsequent research shows it to have been a Clyde-built steamship with a turbine steam engine. It was built in 1926, and after initial teething troubles with her advanced high pressure steam turbines, she gave many years’ faithful service until being retired by Caledonian MacBrayne in 1975. She was later sold for use on the River Thames. While being worked on in docks in Cardiff in 1981, a serious fire caused extensive damage and the T.S. King George V was finally scrapped in 1984. A very sad end for what looks to have been a beautiful ship.

It was truly fascinating to see the model, which had gathered quite a crowd. It is a working model and I did see it sail. To build something like this would take enormous, skill, dedication and determination.

Eventually, I reached Crinan, which is just a small town with café, hotel, etc, as well as the harbour and the canal basin. In today’s heat, everywhere was very busy. I like Crinan, a nice place to relax and watch the world pass by. Having seen model steamship in action already today, I now had the chance to see a full-sized steamship. Crinan is the base of one of the last Clyde Puffers in existence. Puffers were small cargo vessels which developed out of canal barges as steam engines replaced horses for propulsion. The Puffers were modified to go to sea, with sealed cargo holds etc and many plied their trade on the Forth and Clyde Canal, the west coast and the Hebrides. The car ferries which started to go into service in the 1960s killed their trade as now lorries and vans could go directly which reduced the amount of goods handling required.

I was lucky that Vic 32 was at port and also in steam, although you cannot go on board. Vic 32 was one of a batch of Puffers built by the Royal Navy during the second world war to act as tenders to the huge battleships that couldn’t come into ports. In the postwar years, they were sold off by the Navy and entered service on the Clyde. Over the years, many were converted to Diesel engines. A steamship needs to carry a lot of coal and water which adds weight and eats into available cargo space. Converting to Diesel reduced operating costs. Vic 32 is the last still sailing with its original steam engine (to the best of my knowledge). It is now hired out as a pleasure craft. It was lovely to see this piece of Scottish maritime history.

I had ridden fifty odd miles in very warm, humid conditions and it had taken much longer to get to Crinan than I had thought. I was contemplating my return journey back to Tarbert when I bumped into the MK II Transit camper van owner I had met at Tarbert harbour the previous day. He had also cycled the canal from end to end and back again to where he had parked his van. He was returning to Tarbert and offered me a lift. I decided to take it. It was nearly five o’ clock by now and although it would be faster on the A83 than the route I had taken to get here, it would still be quite late when I got back and I had a headache. It was nice to travel in a MKII Transit again for the first time in at least thirty years.

Back at Tarbert, I got something to eat and had a little ride around the harbour areas and beyond. I then decided to enjoy a relaxing evening. Then the thunder and lightning came and the torrential rain. I was pleased to be under cover and pleased as I hoped the thunder would clear the air.