Part 2 of this narrative can be found here.

Day 5: The Ayrshire Coastal Path

I had booked on the mid-morning ferry back to Ardrossan so I had plenty of time to get packed up and have a leisurely breakfast before making the short trip back to Brodick to catch the ferry back to Ardrossan. I had given myself plenty of time in case of delays but had done this small section of the Isle of Arran so often in the past few days I felt I knew it intimately. The unusually good weather was continuing and again the ferry crossing was smooth on the glass-like water on this calm day. The mornings were often dull and overcast but it always brightened up into a glorious day.

From Ardrossan I’d be back-tracking a little first of all as one of the things on my itinerary was to visit the Scottish Maritime Museum in Irvine. I had hoped to do this on the way up but I hadn’t enough time. It would be about ten miles back along NCN 7 to reach Irvine. It can be nice to do a route in the opposite direction too as you sometimes see things you’ve missed.

The journey back to Irvine was relaxed now with no time constraints. The Scottish Maritime Museum is quite large with both outdoor and indoor exhibits. On the outside, you can see various old boats as well the tools of the trade such as steam hammers. Building ships is engineering on a large scale and the machinery used is huge. The indoor museum is housed in the Linthouse, which is an historical building in its own right. Inside you can learn of the origins of shipbuilding on the River Clyde and I was surprised to learn that the modern River Clyde is much modified from what it was naturally as it was deepened and narrowed in the eighteenth century deepen the water channel and make Glasgow more successful as a port.

The importance of Glasgow as a centre of heavy industry cannot be over-stated. Many shipyards lined the river Clyde and some famous ships were built here such as the Cutty Shark. The other side of Glasgow also had other heavy industry building railway locomotives, etc. There are also other industries like Albion lorries and buses (I went to school in one) and the Singer Sewing Machine company related to Glasgow. At the museum, it is possible to listen to interviews recorded in the 1980s with people who had worked in the shipyards all their and it is fascinating. It was hard work and work wasn’t always guaranteed. One carpenter said about seeing lorry loads of timber and following them to see if he could find work.

Shipyards would have been dirty, noisy places to work. You can handle some of the tools involved. The riveting gun is pretty heavy to hold, try to imagine holding it for maybe an eight-, or twelve-hour shift. I am pleased to report I was able to use the tongs provided to place all the rivets in the right holes but I’m sure those that did this could do it much faster. Also remember they would have been working with the rivets when they were red hot and the noise would have been deafening. From the interviews I had listened to, it seems everyone tried to keep the riveters on side as they always had fire to heat the rivets and there useful to be on friendly terms with them as they would let you boil your tea tin on their fire. Rivets were fitted hot as when metal cools, it contracts which means they fit tighter than they would have done if fitted cold.

You can also visit a small room which gives some of the history of lighthouses which is very interesting in its own right. I definitely enjoyed my visit to the museum. It is very informative and very interesting to anyone with an interest in the history of engineering. The scale of the machines used is on a different scale to anything most people will have come across. You can also see cutaway exhibits of various engines used over the years. Of course, shipbuilding on the Clyde is no longer the busy industry it once was and all the dozens of shipyards have gone. I think one or two might still exist. I have travelled on three Clyde-built ships that I am aware of – The 1899 S.S. Sir Walter Scott (on Loch Katrine), the 1947 P.S. Waverley, and the Clare Island ferry in Mayo is also an old Clyde-built vessel. The Clyde shipyards started to go into decline in the 1960s; partly due to being slow to adapt to electric welding as opposed to riveting and other newer production methods.

I then retraced my steps back along NCN 7 through Saltcoats to Ardrossan. On a week day, it was much quieter than it had been the previous Saturday. From there I continued on to the seaside resort of Largs. I did this route too last year. You ride on paths and minor roads which run alongside the A78 and I would consider it a pleasant route if you are not in a hurry.

I reached Largs at about a half-past six. The approach to Largs on this cycle route is very nice and you can see the monument which I always associate with Largs – the “small” round tower built to commemorate the Vikings in the area. Largs is one of the traditional seaside resorts popular with the people of Glasgow back in the day and could easily be reached by rail or paddle steamer.

I had covered around forty miles for the day, although it was mostly flat terrain. It was nice to stop and relax for the evening though as even if it wasn’t long in distance terms, I had still fitted a lot in with the ferry journey and the museum visit. My plan was to go to the island of Great (or Muckle) Cumbrae the following day. I was treated to a dramatic sunset to end the day with.

Day 6: Millport and Great Cumbrae

Great Cumbrae or Muckle Cumbrae is often described as Scotland’s most accessible island. With an approximate ten-minute ferry journey, that is most probably true. The ferry runs on a very regular basis throughout the day so there wouldn’t be a problem. After breakfast I cycled the short distance to the ferry terminal and bought my ticket. I was one of a handful of cyclists waiting.

The crossing was smooth and sun-blessed, just like all my other nautical adventures on this trip. This was a much smaller ferry than the one I had sailed to Arran on. In about ten minutes, we were on disembarking on Great Cumbrae (the smaller Cumbrae island is quite nearby. The only town on the island is Millport but the ferry stops at the slipway a few miles from the town. Millport has a pier, which dates to 1833, and was a traditional stopping point of the Clyde paddle steamers until they were withdrawn from service in the 1960s. The modern car ferry uses the Cumbrae Slip.

I turner right on leaving the ferry, making my way towards Millport, past Fintry Bay which has a café. I didn’t need anything this early so continued riding. This would be a leisurely day. The road around the island is only around eleven miles so I wouldn’t be covering huge mileage today. I continued along the coast road into Millport.

The town of Millport grew up around the Garrison House built in 1745. As the Clyde’s importance as a shipping route grew, Millport became an important base for Customs and Excise. The town grew rapidly during the Victorian era, I guess it made a good holiday venue and stopping point for those taking a trip “doon the water” on the Clyde steamers. Many buildings of the Victorian era can still be seen.

The main street and most of the seafront was closed to motorised traffic when I was there for resurfacing work but cyclists were allowed through which made for a pleasant cycling experience. The harbour and seafront are attractive, as are the many Victorian buildings. I can definitely see the appeal for a seaside holiday. I believe there is a music festival in Millport every year too which brings in the crowds.

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I didn’t spend too much time in Millport at this point but I’d be back! On such a small island I would explore most things several times before going back to the mainland. Like Arran, I was surprised by the sheer volume of cyclists on the roads here and the bike shop on the main street was doing a good trade in cycle hire from what I could see.

Before leaving Millport for the first time, I did visit the Cathedral of Isles, something I had been looking forward to. The Cathedral opened in 1851, designed by architect William Butterfield and patroned by the 6^th Earl of Glasgow. I believe it is the smallest Cathedral in the British Isles and belongs to the Episcopal Church of Scotland. It is the tallest building on the island (the spire is 123 feet tall). The Cathedral is nice, inside and out. At the entrance you can see a selection of Celtic crosses which were excavated at various locations on the island during the Victorian era.

I continued on my way around the coast. On such a clear day, the island offers great views and Ailsa Craig can be seen in the distance. It is pretty easy cycling terrain for the most part. I continued along the coast road until I reached Millport again. I had some refreshments, then turned and rode the island in the opposite direction. I also explored the inland roads, which did have some hills but nothing serious. I stopped in Millport again for time and watched a group of pipers play on the seafront for quite a while. I found them very good and enjoyed watching them. I happily put some money in the bucket as they were doing it for local charities.

One of the interesting things I did learn about on the island was about a Scottish polar expedition led by Williams Spears Bruce which made their first Scottish landing on their return from the Antarctic at Millport. I had read about Captain Scott, Ernest Shackleton and Tom Creann and have always had an interest in the race for the Antarctic but hadn’t heard of this expedition before. I found a tourist information board telling the story.

After riding every road, I could find on the island at least once, and many twice or more, I decided it was time to return to the mainland. I made my way back to Cumbrae Slip to await the next ferry. I had managed to make over forty miles riding on this little island and had enjoyed it immensely. The largely traffic-free roads, the respectful drivers, the beautiful scenery and beautiful Victorian seafront at Millport, there is a lot to like on Cumbrae and it’s well worth visiting.

After getting back to Largs, I left my bike where I was staying and had a walk around the town before having dinner for the evening. There is a lot to like about Largs too as it also has a nice seafront and many characterful old buildings.

I hadn’t really planned anything beyond this point but I still had time and the weather was still amazing so I had looked ahead and booked two nights accommodation in Balloch, on the shores of Loch Lomond. I decided I would like to see the paddle steamer Maid of the Loch which is in dry dock undergoing restoration at Balloch and I also fancied a boat trip on Loch Lomond. In the morning I would catch the train Glasgow and make my way north.

PART 4 OF THIS NARRATIVE CAN BE FOUND HERE.