I had booked on the mid-morning ferry back to Ardrossan so I had plenty of time to get packed up and have a leisurely breakfast before making the short trip back to Brodick to catch the ferry back to Ardrossan. I had given myself plenty of time in case of delays but had done this small section of the Isle of Arran so often in the past few days I felt I knew it intimately. The unusually good weather was continuing and again the ferry crossing was smooth on the glass-like water on this calm day. The mornings were often dull and overcast but it always brightened up into a glorious day.
From Ardrossan I’d be back-tracking a little first of all as one of the things on my itinerary was to visit the Scottish Maritime Museum in Irvine. I had hoped to do this on the way up but I hadn’t enough time. It would be about ten miles back along NCN 7 to reach Irvine. It can be nice to do a route in the opposite direction too as you sometimes see things you’ve missed.
The journey back to Irvine was relaxed now with no time constraints. The Scottish Maritime Museum is quite large with both outdoor and indoor exhibits. On the outside, you can see various old boats as well the tools of the trade such as steam hammers. Building ships is engineering on a large scale and the machinery used is huge. The indoor museum is housed in the Linthouse, which is an historical building in its own right. Inside you can learn of the origins of shipbuilding on the River Clyde and I was surprised to learn that the modern River Clyde is much modified from what it was naturally as it was deepened and narrowed in the eighteenth century deepen the water channel and make Glasgow more successful as a port.
The importance of Glasgow as a centre of heavy industry cannot be over-stated. Many shipyards lined the river Clyde and some famous ships were built here such as the Cutty Shark. The other side of Glasgow also had other heavy industry building railway locomotives, etc. There are also other industries like Albion lorries and buses (I went to school in one) and the Singer Sewing Machine company related to Glasgow. At the museum, it is possible to listen to interviews recorded in the 1980s with people who had worked in the shipyards all their and it is fascinating. It was hard work and work wasn’t always guaranteed. One carpenter said about seeing lorry loads of timber and following them to see if he could find work.
Shipyards would have been dirty, noisy places to work. You can handle some of the tools involved. The riveting gun is pretty heavy to hold, try to imagine holding it for maybe an eight-, or twelve-hour shift. I am pleased to report I was able to use the tongs provided to place all the rivets in the right holes but I’m sure those that did this could do it much faster. Also remember they would have been working with the rivets when they were red hot and the noise would have been deafening. From the interviews I had listened to, it seems everyone tried to keep the riveters on side as they always had fire to heat the rivets and there useful to be on friendly terms with them as they would let you boil your tea tin on their fire. Rivets were fitted hot as when metal cools, it contracts which means they fit tighter than they would have done if fitted cold.
You can also visit a small room which gives some of the history of lighthouses which is very interesting in its own right. I definitely enjoyed my visit to the museum. It is very informative and very interesting to anyone with an interest in the history of engineering. The scale of the machines used is on a different scale to anything most people will have come across. You can also see cutaway exhibits of various engines used over the years. Of course, shipbuilding on the Clyde is no longer the busy industry it once was and all the dozens of shipyards have gone. I think one or two might still exist. I have travelled on three Clyde-built ships that I am aware of – The 1899 S.S. Sir Walter Scott (on Loch Katrine), the 1947 P.S. Waverley, and the Clare Island ferry in Mayo is also an old Clyde-built vessel. The Clyde shipyards started to go into decline in the 1960s; partly due to being slow to adapt to electric welding as opposed to riveting and other newer production methods.
I then retraced my steps back along NCN 7 through Saltcoats to Ardrossan. On a week day, it was much quieter than it had been the previous Saturday. From there I continued on to the seaside resort of Largs. I did this route too last year. You ride on paths and minor roads which run alongside the A78 and I would consider it a pleasant route if you are not in a hurry.
I reached Largs at about a half-past six. The approach to Largs on this cycle route is very nice and you can see the monument which I always associate with Largs – the “small” round tower built to commemorate the Vikings in the area. Largs is one of the traditional seaside resorts popular with the people of Glasgow back in the day and could easily be reached by rail or paddle steamer.
I had covered around forty miles for the day, although it was mostly flat terrain. It was nice to stop and relax for the evening though as even if it wasn’t long in distance terms, I had still fitted a lot in with the ferry journey and the museum visit. My plan was to go to the island of Great (or Muckle) Cumbrae the following day. I was treated to a dramatic sunset to end the day with.
Day 6: Millport and Great Cumbrae
Great Cumbrae or Muckle Cumbrae is often described as Scotland’s most accessible island. With an approximate ten-minute ferry journey, that is most probably true. The ferry runs on a very regular basis throughout the day so there wouldn’t be a problem. After breakfast I cycled the short distance to the ferry terminal and bought my ticket. I was one of a handful of cyclists waiting.
The crossing was smooth and sun-blessed, just like all my other nautical adventures on this trip. This was a much smaller ferry than the one I had sailed to Arran on. In about ten minutes, we were on disembarking on Great Cumbrae (the smaller Cumbrae island is quite nearby. The only town on the island is Millport but the ferry stops at the slipway a few miles from the town. Millport has a pier, which dates to 1833, and was a traditional stopping point of the Clyde paddle steamers until they were withdrawn from service in the 1960s. The modern car ferry uses the Cumbrae Slip.
I turner right on leaving the ferry, making my way towards Millport, past Fintry Bay which has a café. I didn’t need anything this early so continued riding. This would be a leisurely day. The road around the island is only around eleven miles so I wouldn’t be covering huge mileage today. I continued along the coast road into Millport.
The town of Millport grew up around the Garrison House built in 1745. As the Clyde’s importance as a shipping route grew, Millport became an important base for Customs and Excise. The town grew rapidly during the Victorian era, I guess it made a good holiday venue and stopping point for those taking a trip “doon the water” on the Clyde steamers. Many buildings of the Victorian era can still be seen.
The main street and most of the seafront was closed to motorised traffic when I was there for resurfacing work but cyclists were allowed through which made for a pleasant cycling experience. The harbour and seafront are attractive, as are the many Victorian buildings. I can definitely see the appeal for a seaside holiday. I believe there is a music festival in Millport every year too which brings in the crowds.
I didn’t spend too much time in Millport at this point but I’d be back! On such a small island I would explore most things several times before going back to the mainland. Like Arran, I was surprised by the sheer volume of cyclists on the roads here and the bike shop on the main street was doing a good trade in cycle hire from what I could see.
Before leaving Millport for the first time, I did visit the Cathedral of Isles, something I had been looking forward to. The Cathedral opened in 1851, designed by architect William Butterfield and patroned by the 6th Earl of Glasgow. I believe it is the smallest Cathedral in the British Isles and belongs to the Episcopal Church of Scotland. It is the tallest building on the island (the spire is 123 feet tall). The Cathedral is nice, inside and out. At the entrance you can see a selection of Celtic crosses which were excavated at various locations on the island during the Victorian era.
I continued on my way around the coast. On such a clear day, the island offers great views and Ailsa Craig can be seen in the distance. It is pretty easy cycling terrain for the most part. I continued along the coast road until I reached Millport again. I had some refreshments, then turned and rode the island in the opposite direction. I also explored the inland roads, which did have some hills but nothing serious. I stopped in Millport again for time and watched a group of pipers play on the seafront for quite a while. I found them very good and enjoyed watching them. I happily put some money in the bucket as they were doing it for local charities.
One of the interesting things I did learn about on the island was about a Scottish polar expedition led by Williams Spears Bruce which made their first Scottish landing on their return from the Antarctic at Millport. I had read about Captain Scott, Ernest Shackleton and Tom Creann and have always had an interest in the race for the Antarctic but hadn’t heard of this expedition before. I found a tourist information board telling the story.
After riding every road, I could find on the island at least once, and many twice or more, I decided it was time to return to the mainland. I made my way back to Cumbrae Slip to await the next ferry. I had managed to make over forty miles riding on this little island and had enjoyed it immensely. The largely traffic-free roads, the respectful drivers, the beautiful scenery and beautiful Victorian seafront at Millport, there is a lot to like on Cumbrae and it’s well worth visiting.
After getting back to Largs, I left my bike where I was staying and had a walk around the town before having dinner for the evening. There is a lot to like about Largs too as it also has a nice seafront and many characterful old buildings.
I hadn’t really planned anything beyond this point but I still had time and the weather was still amazing so I had looked ahead and booked two nights accommodation in Balloch, on the shores of Loch Lomond. I decided I would like to see the paddle steamer Maid of the Loch which is in dry dock undergoing restoration at Balloch and I also fancied a boat trip on Loch Lomond. In the morning I would catch the train Glasgow and make my way north.
Being laid up for several months gives time to think and to plan and I guess like most people, I have my list of things that I’d like to do. With a love of steam engines and old machinery in general and loving to see these great machines of the past at work, I felt I would like to sail on the P.S. Waverley. The Glasgow based paddle steamer is the last ocean going paddle steamer in the world, the final survivor of a large number of similar vessels which once plied their trade on the Firth of Clyde and other coastal areas, transporting tourists and holiday makers on pleasure cruises to scenic and hard to reach areas before private cars and foreign holidays became more affordable. A lot of hard work and fundraising has been done over the years to save the Waverley from the same fate as her sister ships which were de-commisioned and scrapped as they became expensive to repair and run in the early 1960s as falling numbers of passengers meant pleasure cruises on the Clyde were no longer profitable. The Waverley soldiered on until the early ‘70s before being sold to the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society for the price of £1 and there began a long process of finding the funds required to keep this iconic ship and piece of social history alive and carry out much needed restoration work.
I made the decision that I’d like to go Scotland to sail on the Waverley, when I began planning I needed two crutches to walk. I planned to go in June as I was working on the assumption that I would be able to walk better by then and I would be able to drive. My plan was to take the car on the ferry. I booked the ticket to sail on the Waverley for June 19th from Largs as I thought it was easier than actually going into Glasgow. I’m not really a city person.
It has been a pleasant surprise that my recovery from injury has been such that when the time come, I am able to cycle perfectly well, perhaps not with any great speed but I can do decent distances and cycling doesn’t cause my ankle any pain whereas it does get sore if I walk around on it all day. I felt confident enough to cycle rather than take the car. This was good. It is more enjoyable to cycle than to drive (for me at least) and it also works out considerably cheaper which is an added bonus. Also because I was going to Largs and the Ayrshire coast, I knew there is a decent rail service linking the main coastal towns in the south-west of Scotland. If I really did struggle, putting the bike on the train would be an alternative.
A potential problem cropped up with the threat of rail stikes and very limited services on Britain’s rail network. The plan I had put in place required a train from Stanraer to Ayr on the first day. Looking at the timetables online showed a greatly reduced service with two early trains and one quite late. The best laid plans of mice and men… I made a last minute decision to take my Brompton as I can fold that up and put it on a bus. Thankfully, Ayrshire also has an excellent bus service. The internet makes it easy to plan rail or bus journeys in another country.
Day 1 Travelling to Ayr
The first day was pretty uneventful and even a bit tedious. I loaded the Brompton up with luggage, using the front mounted T-bag and also a saddle mounted Carradice saddle bag. The front bag probably would have held everything but I prefer to split the load a bit more evenly as I am concerned about over-loading the front luggage block of the Brompton. I’ve toured with this setup on the Brompton before and it works very well I think. The front bag removes easily and is easy to carry off the bike. It is straightforward if a bit of a fiddle to undo the leather buckles on the Carradice bag and I fit a shoulder strap to put it on my shoulder. The bike can then be folded and fitted into it’s own bag for carriage on a bus (I know Bus Eireann insist on covering folding bikes, not sure if Stagecoach in Scotland would require this but I took the bag and used it as a precaution).
I caught an early morning train in Derry which took me to Larne Harbour with a change at Yorkgate and was in good time for my midday sailing to Cairnryan.Two hours later I was in Cairnryan. I rode the short distance to the bus stop in Cairnryan (I found out later that the buses actually go into the ferry terminal so I didn’t need to do this) and waited on my bus. It was grey, misty and drizzling rain (from the ferry it had been difficult to see the coastline due to the mist) but the forecast was for the weather to get better. Weather of course is always the potential problem but I was equipped for all weather conditions. You don’t come to Scotland (or Ireland) for it’s excellent weather. It happens, but not very often.
Stagecoach service 360 took me to Ayr. The approximately fifty mile journey seems to take just a little over two hours and includes trips into many housing estates in Girvan. There is no doubt a train would have been faster and more comfortable but at £8 for the ticket, I feel it is excellent value for money and there is the added bonus that the bus goes up the A77 coast road and continues on the coast through Turnberry and on to Ayr so you get to see the Ayrshire coast and the iconic and beautiful Ailsa Craig in all it’s splendor. Not even the overcast weather could hide the natural beauty. I’ve seen it several times over the years but still am struck with awe on the approach to Girvan as Ailsa Craig comes into view. I was tempted to get off the bus for a walk along Girvan sea front and wait for a latter bus for the rest of the journey but I resisted. I really would love to cycle the A77 some day but I fear it is just too dangerous as it carries quite a lot of traffic and has many corners and hills with poor sightlines and many drivers drive faster and with less attention than they really should.
I arrived in Ayr at around a half past five. After re-assembling my bike and luggage I rode the short distance from the bus depot to the accommodation that I had pre-booked for the night. I had been to Ayr before on previous occasions and had a reasonable idea where I was going so didn’t bother looking it up on GPS. I was amazed at the respect for cyclists shown by Ayr motorists as I rode in rush hour traffic. After checking in, I had a shower and change of clothes before taking a walk along the Ayr’s famous seafront with it’s miles of golden beaches before getting something to eat and then relaxing. The drizzle and greyness had cleared and it was a nice bright evening. I was even treated to some interesting colours as the sun set.
Day 2 – The Ayrshire Coastal Path – Ayr to Largs.
The weather forecast was right. Saturday dawned bright and sunny with the potential of being a real hot, summer’s day. After a walk along the seafront before breakfast, I packed up and prepared my bike for the road. I had planned to cycle up the coast to the seaside resort of Largs. I was planning to do it off-road if possible. Online research suggested that the northern part of the Ayrshire Coastal Path was passable by bicycle although there didn’t seem to be any offical guide lines on this. I would give it a good try anyway! The distance would be about forty miles but I had all day to do it. My first rule of cycle touring is to always try not to put yourself under pressure for time! The Ayrshire Coastal Path runs longside and sometimes joins with Sustrans National Cycle Route 7 for a large part of this journey anyway so I wasn’t expecting any problems initially but they might come later. I was really looking forward to this ride.
Both NCN 7 and the Ayrshire Coastal Path are parts of much longer routes. I joined them on the seafront in Ayr as it was near where I had spent the night. Following the NCN 7 route signs from the seafront you initially have to go through the town (as you need to cross the bridge over the River Ayr) before heading north towards Newtown-on-Ayr and Prestwick before going inland for a bit and then going back to the coast at Saltcoats and on to Ardrossan.
I have driven through all these places in the past and didn’t consider them particularly interesting but it is very different when you cycle. You see it differently, you have the time to see what you miss when you drive. It’s why I love cycle touring so much. In a car you are going too fast, you can’t stop on a whim as it’s not always possible to park safely, you can’t interact with the people you meet along the way. The sense of sheer ecstacy I felt as the day unfolded and I surveyed the many beautiful beaches along this route can be barely be described. I was so worried a few months ago that I might never be able to do this again. I felt such a relief to feel I was touring again.
Also the realisation that it is sometimes best kept simple. It’s true the Ayrshire coast is mostly reasonably flat but today at least, it was pretty windy so slow going in places. I found the three-speed Brompton perfectly adequate. I love these bikes; the ease with which they can be folded up for transportation and storage and yet they are pretty decent to ride. In truely hilly terrain it would be different with a limited gear range but in normal terrain, I don’t find it any more difficult or tiring than a normal three-speed sports roadster with twenty-six inch wheels. They also carry luggage so well, a huge advantage that all small wheeled bicycles have. I was carrying a reasonably heavy load but it doesn’t seem to affect the handling of the bike at all. If I put this weight on the type of typical steel road frame I often ride, I’d be aware of it making the bike feel cumbersome and top heavy. With small wheels the weight is carried lower down so it doesn’t do that.
Riding a Brompton wins you friends too as people often want to know what it is. Despite being a bit windy, it was a warm sunny day and many people were out walking and cycling and if you are clearly a cycle tourist, people like to know where you’ve come from and where you’re going. Also, after two years of Covid restrictions, it is also nice to see people getting out and about and exploring again and enjoying the good weather.
At Irvine, you pass the Scottish Maritime Museum. I did stop for a look around although I didn’t actually go in. I just had a look at all the outdoor exhibits. Scotland, of course has a great maritime past and some of the world’s greatest ships were built on the Clyde, an area once renowned for ship building and other heavy industry including many railway locomotives and the beautiful cantilevered Forth Bridge. It may be near Edinburgh but it was made by a company in Glasgow. Steam hammers, rivetters and other tools from the shipywards are on display around the grounds and it’s fascinating to look at the sheer size of them. The Waverley would have been built using tools like these. Shipyards were dirty, noisy and dangerous places to work.
With my leisurely riding, sometimes unsurfaced paths and endless photo stops I was actually running later than I had planned but I was enjoying myself immensely. This was proving to be one of the most enjoyable routes I had ever done on a tour. It was mostly off-road and traffic free apart from through the towns along the coast (and the respect shown to cyclists from drivers is so different compared to the north of Ireland). I had already made my mind up to do it in the opposite direction on the return and this time to make time to visit the museum in Irvine. It wasn’t to be but I’ll come to that later.
From West Kilbride, you leave the NCN and join another part of the Ayrshire Coastal Path which partly runs along the coast from Portencross on either very quiet roads or gravel paths before eventually following a cycle path which runs mostly along side the A78 trunk road. It is a pretty decent facility and keeps you away from the stresses and dangers of the high speed traffic on the A78, (although it didn’t seem particularly busy on this evening at least). Eventually I arrived in Largs, located the B&B I had booked before going for a walk and getting dinner in a pub. With some small diversions off my signposted route and a slight navigational error, I had covered just over fifty miles for the day so a decent day’s mileage for touring. There were no big climbs but there was a noticeable headwind for a lot of it.
Largs is a well-known seaside resort. It’s located on the Firth of Clyde and is just over thirty miles from Glasgow so has always been a popular resort for the people of Glasgow. (The growth of places like Largs and other seaside resorts as well as the popularity of cruises on boats like the Waverley started in the late Victorian period when factory workers were allowed to have a weeks holidays for the first time so in places like Glasgow where there was a huge working population, there was the demand for railways and cruise ships for recreation as people could have a holiday for the first time. We take so much for granted today.) The name Largs comes from An Leargaidh in Scots Gaelic which translates as “The Slopes.” Settlements in this area go back a long time to the Neolithic period and the town has links with the Vikings. In 1263, a battle took place between at Largs between the Vikings and the Scottish army. The battle is commemorated by the “Pencil Monument” about a mile south of the town and is built in the form of a round tower. Largs played an important part in WWII.
I found the modern Largs a pleasant town with many interesting buildings, a nice beach and the pier from which a ferry service operates to Great Cumbrae. The pier is also a regular berth for the Waverley (paddle steamers are difficult to dock and not every pier is suitable) which of course was the reason I came here.
I had really enjoyed this ride, I was starting to feel like a cyclist again and it’s great to be on the bike in beautiful surroundings on a clear sunny day. Nothing else gives the same feeling of freedom as cycling. After everything that has happened in the past few years with the Covid travel restrictions and then being injured it is such a great feeling to be touring again.
Day 3 – At sea – Largs to Ardrishaig
The day dawned bright, sunny but windy. It wasn’t particularly hot for the time of year but it was clear blue skies, good visibility and beautiful torquise coloured sea. I wouldn’t be boarding the Waverley until about midday so I had went for a walk after breakfast and it was lovely to see such bright weather. I had wrapped up warm though as despite appearances it hadn’t warmed up much and I was expecting it to be colder at sea.
As the time came close, I made my way to the pier. There didn’t seem to be that many people at first but suddenly there was quite a crowd and the Waverley came into view. I was surpised by how much speed it carrying, certainly much more than I expected. The docking procedure is something worth of watching. One of the downsides of paddle ships is that they can’t move themselves sideways and have poor manourverability in general so ropes need to be thrown ashore and then tied before using the winch to pull Waverley into the pier to allow boarding.
The Waverley was untied from the pier and we were now at sea. Many people quickly disappeared below deck as it was quite cold and windy but those of us of a more weatherproof nature remained on deck. Despite the strong breeze, the sea was quite calm which was good. Waverley travels very smoothly and is much faster than I was expecting. You can hear the noise of the huge 216 inch diameter paddle wheels in the water but it is soothing and rhythmic rather than annoying.
The 693 ton Waverley was built by Shipbuilder A. & J. Inglis of Glasgow (part of Belfast’s Harland and Wolff group) and named after Sir Walter Scott’s first novel. She took her maiden voyage from Craigendoran Pier to Loch Long on June 16th 1947 and was originally operated by the London and North Eastern Railway company and later the Caledonian Steam Packet Company alongside other paddle steamers called the Lucy Ashton, Jeanie Deans and Talisman which I think are all named after characters in Scott’s novels. Waverley was actually the second ship to carry the name Waverley as it was built as a replacement for the original 1899 Waverley which was sank by enemy action in 1940 during the Dunkirk evacuations with a loss of almost four hundred lives. Paddle steamers actually played and important role in both world wars as they were useful for clearing mines as they don’t sit as deep in the water as most other ships. The original Waverley and her sister ships performed this role in both World Wars as well as being used during the Dunkirk evacuations and other troop carrying duties. Today, a little brass plaque visible on the outer deck remembers the tragic fate of the original Waverley.
Below deck you can see the beating heart of Waverley, the large triple expansion steam engine built by Rankin & Blackmore of Greenock. It is fired by oil and not coal as might be expected and runs at about 180 PSI of steam pressure. The bore of the smallest cylinder is 24“ and the engine has a stroke of 66“ It is rated at 2,100 horsepower and achieved speed trials of 18.34 Knots (approximately 21 MPH) at 57.8 RPM. Steam engines produce their maximum torque at much lower revs than internal combustion engines. It is fascinating to stand and watch the engine working and how it all operates; something you can’t see with any modern engine. You hear the clangs as instructions are telegraphed through from the bridge. The crankshaft drives both paddle wheels directly with no gearing and no differential which is the reason for the poor manouverability as the paddle wheels can’t turn independently of each other. It isn’t ideal I suppose but it works. Tthe reason these type of ships were used for coastal excursions was because they could sail in shallower water.
Back up on deck it is nice to just sit or stand and watch the scenery pass by. My Scottish geography is nowhere near good enough to name all the places we passed. I regret forgetting my binnoculars. I noted that a few other passengers were following the progress on OS Maps which would probably have been a good idea if you were interested in knowing the exact route but personally I wasn’t too bothered. Sometimes it’s nice to know exactly where you are, other times it’s nice just to admire the view without ove-rthinking it. Boat trips are a great way to see the coastline and I personally have always found being on board a boat very relaxing. I think it’s just about being able to take the time to relax, sit back and enjoy it. Like cycling, the speed on a boat is slow enough to take the time to enjoy it. On the Waverley, the large steam engine runs at very low revs and is very smooth and quiet and the noise of the paddle wheels in the water provide a relaxing rhythm in the background. It is definitely a nice experience to travel by paddle steamer and different from a modern diesel powered ship.
It took about three hours to reach the small port of Adrishaig where we would be going ashore for about ninety minutes. The wind caused problems with trying to tie the Waverley up as the wind blew the ropes back to the boat and the people on the shore couldn’t catch them. The wind was also causing the boat to drift away from the pier so we had to go back and re-enter the harbour a few times but we got there eventually with perserverance.
Ardrishaig is a nice little harbour town and it was nice to have time ashore to explore a little. I’ve been there once before when I cycled the length of the Crinan Canal as a little aside from cycling NCN 78. The name Ardrishaig is derived from the Scots Gaelic Rubha Àird Driseig which means “promontory of the small bramble.” The pier and harbour were built in 1873. There was some sort of event or market taking place in the town on our visit with stalls selling arts, crafts and some very nice food. There were pipers on the pier to meet us when we arrived and whilst we were ashore, a group of school children were taken on a trip up Loch Fyne on board the Waverley.
There was the same problems with the wind when trying to tie the ship up at the pier when they came back for us but again perserverance won the day. The return journey was made on a different route taking us past the Isle of Arran and the Kyles of Bute. The wind dropped and suddenly it was a glorious warm summer evening with many more people spending time out in the open. Below deck there is a bar and restaurant and the Sunday roast dinner I had bought earlier was very nice and very generous in terms of portions.
The Isle of Arran looks very beautiful and I was starting to form a plan to cycle around it. I believe the distance around the coast road is about fifty or sixty miles so it’s possible as a day ride. The return journey was more peaceful without the wind and it was now possible to hear the guide over the tannoy system point out places of interest as we passed. On the way out, his voice got lost in the wind. I had had a very nice day and it was with genuine sadness that I walked ashore in Largs again and watched the Waverley steam off into the horizon.
We can reflect that on the year of it’s 75th birthday, it is a truely beautiful ship and it’s brilliant that it has survived against all the odds to hopefully give enjoyment to many more for many years to come. Perhaps rising fuel costs and climate change concerns may make flying abroad less attractive in the future and cruisers may yet again return to coastal areas. New ships will be more efficient and easier to maintain but I doubt they will have the elegance and beauty of the Waverley which dates from a time when things weren’t just functional but were designed to be beautiful to look at as well.
My final night in Largs was a peaceful affair with a walk along the beach and putting my plans in place for the next few days. I had booked two nights in Ayr where I had hoped to visit things connected with Robert Burns but hadn’t thought much further ahead than that. I had no decided that I would cycle south along the Ayshire Coastal Path since I had enjoyed it so much on Saturday but would make time to visit the Irvine Maritime Museum for a proper look around this and I would get an early morning bus to Ardrossan with the Brompton for a trip to Arran the following day and then go in search of Burns on the Wednesday. It didn’t quite work out like that though….
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