“Are we talking sweet things (gooseberry crumble) or savory (sashimi)? Is it a winter's day (porridge with maple syrup) or deepest summer (chilled agedashi tofu)? Is it a pre-prandial snack (plain crisps) or post-dinner tipple (umeshu with umeboshi)? Is it a snack (plain crisps again) or an indulgent treat (yuzu soft-serve in a cornet)? And what about chargrilled chicken with lemon and za'atar or roast potatoes prised from the roasting tin? What about whipped cod's roe or buttered crumpets?”