Inside the confusing world of women’s clothing sizes

Ladies, check your wardrobe. Inspect your clothing tags. Chances are, you’ll find a spectrum of sizes across your clothes.

That could be because your body has changed over time, which is completely normal. But just as likely, it is because sizing isn’t consistent across fashion labels. A size M in one brand might fit completely differently from the size M in another label.

To understand how clothing sizes work in Singapore, we started by collecting size charts from eight brands, then spoke to fashion designers and product developers about how those numbers came to be.

To test how different sizes fit in practice, we asked five female colleagues to try on dresses and jeans from five brands. To hear directly from consumers, we surveyed 105 women about their frustrations and workarounds.

These insights reveal why shopping for clothes can feel so confusing – and how consumers might better navigate it.

You’ve probably seen sizes like US6, UK10 or EU38 – standardised systems developed in those regions. In Singapore, there is no regional standard, meaning each fashion brand has its own sizing system, which can also differ by product type.

Dresses and tops might use alpha sizes like S, M or L. Flexible bottoms, such as those with elastic waistbands, might also use alpha sizes, whereas structured pieces like jeans may use numerical systems like UK or US sizing.

Size information also varies. Some brands provide general body measurement sizing guides for all products, others list garment measurements for each item, and some offer both. Since general body measurements are easier to compare with our own, we collected body measurement charts from eight popular brands in Singapore – Uniqlo, H&M, Cotton On, Sandro, COS, Lululemon, Love & Bravery and Love, Bonito – which publish them online.

Most sizing guides often provide bust, waist and hip measurements, but bodies are more complex than a set of numbers, and that’s part of why finding a good fit can be tricky.

What we found: Most of our five colleagues could identify mannequins that matched their body shapes. However, when selecting sizes, some chose dolls bigger than their actual size, while others picked smaller ones.

Sizing confusion isn’t just about inconsistent labels across brands – it also starts with how we view our own bodies. And because every woman’s body is different, in ways not always captured by size charts, figuring out where you fit within a label’s sizing system can become complicated.

Where you might fall on the brands’ size charts – and why the sizes you wear don’t tell the whole story.

Enter your bust, waist and hip measurements (in cm) to discover where you land on the various brands’ body measurement size guides.

Each brand creates its own charts based on different body shapes, target markets, or design intentions.

Brands make sizing decisions based on who they believe their customers are. According to local brand Love, Bonito’s lead product developer Diana Taufik Sim, women in Singapore typically have a pear-shaped body – meaning wider hips and a smaller bust.

Like Shannon, more than half of the women we surveyed said they wore at least three different sizes across multiple brands.

Most brands start with a “fit model”– a person who is used by a designer or manufacturer to check the fit, drape and look of an item – whose measurements reflect those of their target customer. They then grade the pattern up or down to create other sizes. While bigger brands can afford to test on different fit models, smaller brands may be limited by resources to test on just one.

The simplest approach is linear grading, says Ms Sim, where each size increases by the same fixed amount – for example, adding 5cm per size. Love, Bonito, however, chooses to apply a non-linear approach, adjusting the jumps between sizes based on a garment’s design, stretchability and how it fits on different body types.

Designing larger sizes isn’t just about increasing length, width or volume, says Ms Sim. Each size increment is carefully calculated to ensure the garment fits properly as well as provides the necessary support and maintains its shape. For example, strap-length increments are reduced for larger bust sizes so that the straps provide the wearer with comfort, support and structural stability.

Fit-testing on bodies of different shapes is also crucial to ensure garments drape well and feel comfortable, says Ms Eunyce Yap, founder of local brand Love & Bravery. “No two women are built the same, even if they wear the same size,” she adds.

Women’s bodies are diverse, and across brands, the same size label may apply to very different proportions.

Industry challenges and limited resources are also practical concerns for apparel businesses. It is costly to test on many fit models, and smaller brands with less bargaining power may be subject to the whims of their manufacturers’ predetermined sizing systems.

For Love & Bravery, sizing charts start with the brand’s own fit models and base measurements, which it then collaboratively adjusts with factories, mostly in China, to fine-tune grading across sizes. “Because body proportions in China and Singapore differ, we customise our charts to better reflect the Singaporean woman’s fit,” says Ms Yap.

Size charts can help shoppers gauge how a garment might fit before they try it on, reducing guesswork and potential returns. But not every brand presents them the same way.

Some provide general guidelines that apply across all products, others list specific measurements for each garment, and some offer both.

There are pros and cons to the approaches, says Ms Rebekah Ong, head of product at home-grown womenswear brand Good Addition. Having an individualised size chart for every product helps each design reach its full potential, but it can become confusing for consumers browsing online.

On the other hand, a generic size chart helps with consistency and is more user-friendly from an e-commerce perspective – but it can backfire on more unique body silhouettes. “You’re limiting yourself to a specific type of consumer who is that size – whom you might lose if her body type changes,” says Ms Ong.

Additionally, some charts give a range for each size, whereas others provide exact measurements.

Even with a size chart in hand, numbers do not capture how a garment drapes, stretches, or moves on your body – and those details are hard to gauge from a screen.

To see how the sizing approaches play out in real life, we asked our colleagues to try on two items of clothing – a dress and a pair of jeans – from five brands: Uniqlo, H&M, Good Addition, Love, Bonito and Love & Bravery.

For the selected designs, we asked them to check the product pages to choose the size they thought would fit them best.

We also surveyed women about the challenges they face when shopping for tops and pants.

For tops, the most common challenge is that they are often tight at the bust. Other pain points include tightness around the shoulders, sleeves that are too snug, hemlines that are too short and necklines that feel constricting.

The most common issue for pants is that pant legs are often too long. Another frequent problem is the fit around the hips and waist – often, if one part fits well, the other does not.

What we learnt: Sizing isn’t just a question of whether something fits or not.

Even when a garment technically fits, factors like fabric stretch, cut, armhole depth, shoulder width, or rise in pants can determine whether it feels comfortable or restrictive.

Personal preferences and factors like modesty, comfort and style also influence what feels wearable.

This is where product design comes in. Adding details such as elastic panels or adjustable features can help those who don’t fit the “standard” body shape wear the clothes comfortably, says Love, Bonito’s Ms Sim.

Other strategies employed by brands include designing clothes with more forgiving silhouettes. At Good Addition, roomy fits are the blueprint for its target audience of “young, stylish mums”, says Ms Ong. “We target women who are quite active and who want to move in their clothing – to be comfortable without revealing themselves in unnecessary ways; people who don’t have the perfect body but still want to look good.”

Design-wise, that translates to extra buttons at the bust, more room at the waistline and hemline, and styles that cover a woman’s natural belly or postpartum body. Good Addition also adds extra seam allowance so customers can alter their clothes if needed.

Fit and fabric go hand in hand with sizing, says Love & Bravery’s Ms Yap. Stiffer materials give structure, while stretchy or drapey fabrics allow more room for movement. “A sleek, tailored piece will naturally feel more fitted, while a flowy dress is meant to be looser – even though both follow our size chart,” she adds.

Having your bust, waist and hip measurements on hand is useful when shopping online, but remember that bodies naturally change – even from week to week due to factors like one’s menstrual cycle.

Just because your numbers match a size chart doesn’t mean the garment will fit exactly as you like. Fabric type, cut and construction all affect the final fit.

Look at the fabric composition, the intended fit (slim, relaxed or oversized) and customer reviews. For example, if a silhouette is more fitted, you may prefer to size up; if it is looser or made of stretch fabric, you may want to size down. Product videos, when available, can help you see how a garment moves.

If a brand has retail locations, visit the store and try the piece on to see how it fits. Even when items are online-only, testing sizes in-store can give you a gauge for future purchases from the same brand.

Investing in a simple alteration can make an item that is slightly ill-fitting, perfect – especially if – it has extra seam allowance.

Clothing sizes are tools, not judgments. Garment sizing is just a number, says Ms Sim. When you age, your body and bone structure change. “You choose the garment; it’s not the garment choosing you. You can wear whatever size you want, as long as you feel confident in it,” says Ms Sim.