Something Wicker this way comes ( or, how to rejuvenate old cane furniture)

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A year or so  ago we built this amazing deck, white washed wood, open smooth spaces that intersect perfectly with the lawn, and looking out to a fishpond… all in all an amazing outdoor space.

Pity about the furniture.

We had some hand me down sofas from my mum out on the deck but they were quite visually heavy and weren’t really outdoor appropriate.  We re homed them to a friend, who loves them and hopefully they’ll see 40 ( they’re already 26 years old!). We then tried some second hand Ikea furniture, but again, not really outdoor furniture and didn’t provide yours truly with the right support to lounge with a book.   Those too have found a ‘forever home’ with a friend ( and the longevity that comes with being inside).

So rather than standing awkwardly on the deck we’d looked at shops, on line, at second hand sales, everywhere really, to find a set we liked, and we ran up against two things. A) outdoor furniture is REALLY expensive or B) it is often poorly made so is both uncomfortable and won’t last long.

So we decided to make and or uprecycle a set.

What we had found for $75 was an old cane furniture set at the tip.  For an extra $50 we had it delivered home.  We’d been looking for a while, but we wanted a completed set, that we really liked and that was in  in fairly good condition so that we would get at least 5 years out of it. It did have to be painted as the original varnish had come off, and repainting would add years of life to it.


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We found this set.  Which then sat on the deck for months untouched.  And – using a party as inspiration to get our act together- we finished it in four days.

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This is what we did;

Divide and conquer works with DIY projects – The chef was assigned the job of painting the set and I was assigned the job of covering the cushions.

Lets start with painting;

Materials

  • A paint spray gun
  • Two liters of outdoor paint  ( we used the left over paint form our deck)
  • Drop sheets (lots)
  • A Wire brush

Method; 

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brush the cane with a wire brush- this removes any lose varnish/dirt

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Buy, rent or borrow a paint spray gun

 

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While the gun is empty use it to blow air across the furniture to remove any dust

Once you’ve prepped the surface find a big space with good ventilation and  that you don’t mind if the ground gets painted.   Spread the drop sheets far and wide. Seriously – spray guns send paint everywhere…

Place the furniture upside down on the spread sheet.  Always start on the underneath of the furniture – this means you can figure out what you’re doing where no else can see it and that you get a better finish on the top.

Load up your paint gun using the instructions supplied with it, as they do vary machine to machine, then slowly and methodically spray the furniture.  We weren’t aiming for a super thick layer as our deck is white washed, but two layers looked like this.  IMAG0603 IMAG0600

Whilst he finished that- I worked away inside at cushions.  Back in the day, like 10 years ago, I was a more then competent sewer, but since then the most I have done is sew a button back on.

I figured square cushions was an easy place to start…. so

Materials

  • New outdoor foam for the seats X 4
  • A bundle of second hand thrown cushions (washed in 60 Celsius to make more hygienic)
  • 4-5 meters of matching marine fabric for the covers – We had grey for the sofa, bright blue for one chair and black for the second, plus some random colors for throw cushions)  
  • An overlocker
  • A sewing machine
  • Scissors
  • A measuring tape
  • And an un-picker is you’re as uncoordinated as me

Method 

To be honest – I was pretty ad hoc about the whole thing, I used the sewing machine manual to teach me out to install a zip and kind of went from there. I was sewing cubes so as long the seams were straight it seemed to work out ( with some unpicking….)

I could have made it easier for myself by measuring, but I had lost my measuring tape that week so was doing things like “Well that’s one and half tea towel lengths…” not a genius way to do it.

Anyway – with luck and an over-locker it worked out and we now have a great, individual out door furniture set for just under $400 (or $800 if you include the sewing machine and over-locker).

And I have some where to lounge.

 

 

 

Summer Garden

I have sadly neglected the garden over the past  few months – Joel’s been awesome, me not so much. But the best thing is our garden for the most part seems to be thriving on benign neglect. I thought I’d share how much our veggies patches have taken off…

Before…3 months ago…

 

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Yesterday….

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Nom nom nom… all the tomatoes… in there we have MANY tomatoes, strawberries, corn, lettuce,  onion, garlic, jalapenos, herbs (rosemary, sage, thyme), nasturtiums, beans, potatoes and pumpkin!

And we’ve only had to water once since we installed them which was after 4 week period with no rain. It has been fabulous! So far the wicking beds have been success and if you’re keen to try check out how here

May I introduce….?

the girls

Beatrice, Victoria and Elizabeth…. The newest residents of our garden !

In that order from left to right – Beatrice is a bit flighty (pun fully intended) Victoria is definitely the boss and Elizabeth wants to do it her way but isn’t too sure what that is… and I am delighted because they make lovely soft clucking noises, look lovely and are unbelievably docile. Down right cuddly in fact….

I have never had furry pets due to allergies, so for me this is a whole new experience, and I was very pleased that even though I was handling them for a while yesterday I didn’t have any allergy reactions!

They are Australian Bantam Langshans, and just under 12 months old so should be already laying. (Google just told me to expect on average 180 eggs from each per year…. sweet paprika that’s a lot of omelettes! )

We had considered buying chicks and may do so in the future but we had concerns around the equipment you need, what happens to roosters, and our lack of knowledge leading to harm. These ladies come from a livestock provider about an hour drive from our house and seem to have settled in very quickly. The plan is to give them a week in the coop, then let then out for afternoons when we get home from work.

I can already see me, book, glass of wine, little black hens at my feet… *sigh*

 

 

 

Cut throat or cut worm?

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So – when we were building our garden beds I kept finding grubs, being the heartless person I am, and the fact that I love magpies, most of the grubs ended up as a magpie dinner. Which was great, as I’m pretty sure those lads sing for their supper and a magpie warble is lovely.  A lot of the soil we filled the beds with was from the old veggie patch, so what I found there has made it into the tubs…

What I didn’t think to do at the time was find out what the grubs were. Then the night time bandits struck.  Plants would ‘disappear’ over night, or be left very damaged, like this poor bean, that was one of three who didn’t  ‘disappear’, ( though I’ve noticed that now the potato plant is sticking it’s head out the damage seems to have halted… maybe that companion planting is starting to work?)

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So between google, and my gardening books I’m taking the educated guess that those grubs were cutworm larvae. From what I gather, these suckers cut the seedling down at the base, hence cut worm, but what really clinches the deal is that they are nocturnal… which explains why my earnest searches to find the culprits through the day was failing.

Cutworms are the larvae of moths – in my area, most likely of the Bogong moth. I’m not an entomologist – so I admit I’m making some pretty broad statements here, so if you know more I’d be delighted to hear.

I’m don’t like using pesticide when I can avoid it, and this year I’m trying a lot of companion planting to minimize the pest impact – but these bugs aren’t even letting me get the planting going! So I’m going to try cuffing my seedlings. Like so;

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Easiest thing in the world to do; all I have done is cut the bottom out of some plastic cups I had in the kitchen and push it into the soil around the seedling – ideally you would place the cup, then plant to avoid root damage, but I’m hoping to save this seedling.  Next time I spot some wide PVC piping at the tip I’ll buy make more ‘permanent’ cuffs. PVC pipes also work well for celery making it grow taller and pale with out the mess of dirt. Yum Yum.

Interestingly (or I think so anyway) was that last year, pre wicking bed, we planted a lot of the seedlings in the top half of soft drink bottles to ensure that water was funneled directly to the  root balls. This year, as the beds are self watering, we didn’t – and this year the damage from pests has been far more obvious.

I guess the test will be if the seedlings are there tomorrow morning? Wish me luck!

Not so Cheep Cheep

OK – as I said we endeavor to do DIY and only buy second hand… occasionally, only occasionally, it gets too hard and we splurge. Like this adorable chook pen….  ( and sorry if you got excited about being able to build this!)

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Chook Chic

We decided to buy rather then build for a couple of reasons, the big one being time.

Being really time poor at the moment, we wanted to use the longer warmer days to settle in our pet chooks, so had to make a call, buy a pen and have time to settle in the ladies, or wait and possibly be looking at frost with chicks.  I also had begun to wonder about  second hand coop and possible disease issues.

So we settled on buy a pen – this had the added bonuses of being super fast to build (and hour or so flat pack?), it is secure, bird friendly, and with an extra coat of polyurethane, fully water proof.

And inspiration didn’t strike this time about alternative building ideas… but in Autumn I’m hoping to building a mobile chicken tractor so I can put the chooks out through the day on the veggie beds to turn them over.

Oh – and it is also adorable  ( and yes, I will totally be attaching a wee window box with red geraniums) Having built the coop we conferred with our local chook breeder who has said we can comfortably fit 3 bantams in it, and what sort of breed we should get, which are black orpington bantams – which look like normal chooks but smaller. I had been all excited about getting little balls of fluff and hand rearing, but not sure we’ll go ahead with that as there a more risks involved… but we’ll see if I crack hey?

The last couple of weeks have been massive in the garden, and when I wrote the following list a few weeks ago, I didn’t think it would all happen… but other then buying, rather then building the chook pen, (and the gate for the compost bins, we are evaluating extending the chook run that way?) we got everything done in a little over three days.  Epic!

  • finish cladding the deck
  • finish and paint the final section of the pergola (we’re adding an extra upright and cross beam so we can try to grow strawberries in PVC pipes)
  • sow beans, carrots, celery, lettuce, and peas (by sow I mean plant outside directly)
  • build a potato tower (I’ll add another blog)
  • hot house sow cucumbers, eggplants, pumpkins, capsicum, and maybe more tomatoes ( first lot was done three weeks ago and are starting to pop out)…
  • make enough paper pots to do all the above
  • weed the front yard (boring…)
  • prune the correas
  • Build a gate/fence for the compost bins ( pending decisions!)
  • AND build a chook pen for three laying ladies

The best bit it now enjoying watching everything grow!  Less then two weeks and all the seeds have sprouted, the apple trees are blossoming and late spring bulbs have come the party.   IMAG0889

Cheep Cheep!

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So far – most of our adventures in sustainable DIY have been presented as fait accompli – so this time I decided to try and follow our journey from beginning to end.

Spring has sprung – the garden is bursting to life, our seeds shooting up and the days becoming longer. And I have a week leave off at home to finish my thesis (honours if you’re interested)… but I also want to use two days to do as much in the garden as possible – the list so far….

  • finish cladding the deck
  • finish and paint the final section of the pergola (we’re adding an extra upright and cross beam so we can try to grow strawberries in PVC pipes)
  • sow beans, carrots, celery, lettuce, and peas (by sow I mean plant outside directly)
  • build a potato tower (I’ll add another blog)
  • hot house sow cucumbers, eggplants, pumpkins, capsicum, and maybe more tomatoes ( first lot was done three weeks ago and are starting to pop out)
  • check out the Canberra organics growing society  – these guys offer great advice, not only if you’re local…
  • make enough paper pots to do all the above
  • weed the front yard (boring…)download
  • prune the correas (winter flowering native which produces bountiful bell like flowers the birds love)
  • Build a gate/fence for the compost bins
  • AND build a chook pen for three laying ladies

There are two of us, and we have a lot of the materials to hand already – so it may actually be achievable if the weather holds out (if it rains all bets are off)…

The chook pen offers the most challenges I think  – it needs to be pest proof, water tight, easily ‘cleanable’ and aesthetically pleasing because the best place to put it is visible. We’ve chosen that space at is has walls on two sides, so more protection from the elements, shade from a deciduous tree and the lawn in that corner has never grown well so might has well be utilized otherwise.

I’d like 2 or 3 chooks, breed to be determined and especially to hand raise them so they’re ‘pet’ like.

This afternoon I’ll go to the green shed to find inspiration. I’m hoping that other then the chicken wire ( and may even that) we can build the whole thing from upcycled products.   (and cheep… get it? tee hee).

So the adventure begins!

Street Front Vegie Patch 4; How to make it pretty….

So last we spoke the front yard was filled with bath tubs….  like so I believe.

 

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Which – while practical, is not aesthetically pleasing, and as we like our neighbors we decided that beautification was necessary.  As mentioned last week, check that the tubs are water tight – we found that a couple weren’t, which was easily remedied with the “this will stick to anything glue“.

At this stage we began the cladding process, or to clarify – I shoveled dirt while Joel clad. We knew that the tip had a lot of scrap corrugated iron so we’d bought a few sheets earlier.  In Australia (and everywhere else for all I know) corrugated iron is a popular product for gardens beds, so we knew that using it to clad our beds would produce an appearance that was considered pleasing to the eye.  It lasts forever, is fairly easy to attach and is a somewhat forgiving material.

We purposely purchased mismatched sheets as we knew there wouldn’t be enough to match all the tubs.  For the edging we used the off-cuts from the deck we built last year and to top the beds we used old bed frames – which is untreated wood.  These had to be done piecemeal as nothing was the same size and we wanted to use up as much scrap as we could.

Tools that you’ll need (ideally)

  • a drop saw 
  • a couple of drills, ideally one electric (more force)
  • an angle grinder
  • spirit level

Safety tip; wear the personal safety equipment recommended, these can be gloves, goggles, ear muffs or a face mask, check your environment, make sure your phone is accessible (in case of accident), and have someone else around.  If you do hurt yourself – get help!  For more details check with your local hardware store, or online at places like this.

(We budget for medical bills on the big jobs…at the end of the day we’re amateurs and accidents do happen, and unlike work, we’re not covered by insurance for a mishap at home.  It is normally just a couple of hundred that we ensure is accessible if we need to do an emergency trip to the GP for stitches or a booster tetanus shot.  As a normal rule we do avoid injury and the money goes back into the kitty but just in case….)

After much measuring and noise making we decided how to best cut the iron to minimize waste and effort- using a couple of bricks as support we started cutting…..

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This was the first piece we attached – as you can see it took almost a full day of noise making to reach a decision…! We screwed it directly into the bath with a tech screws along the top. IMG_3749

In this shot you can see that we’ve overlapped a portion – in areas like this we’d add another screw half way down for safety.   What we did realize was that we didn’t have enough corrugated iron to wrap all the tubs entirely, but what we did have was a lot of wood off cuts – we again measured and made noises and figured out the most effective way to use scrap wood (as you may have figured, we hoard wood.)

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Of big importance was to cover any sharp edges so we covered corners as required and over the top of all the baths we added a frame of non treated wood.  This is awesome – a) it covers the iron, b) is covers the bath and C) with the big pieces made out of old bed frames, it makes a great seat or place to balance tools while you’re planting.

We paved around the baths using old pavers in the below pattern –  paving is incredibly easy – smooth your surface, throw down some paving sand and create a flat surface, then start laying. It’s easy but physically hard! We were using old pavers from the the back yard so weren’t expecting a perfect finish – but we got very lucky  and had just enough to finish the job.

The green squares indicate planting holes in which we planted thyme plants. We added plants to the paving for a few reasons, hopefully to reduce run off as water will be trapped by the plants, to reduce reflected heat in summer by breaking up the pavers and that walking over thyme smells delicious!

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Around the outside edge of the whole patch we planted agapanthas ( we have an excessive amount in our yard), these will again hopefully reduce water run off and heat, as well as provide flowers and on the inside edges we planted punnets of perennials which are hardy and colorful.  I honestly can not remember what type they are.. guess we’ll see when they bloom!

This is the finished product and we’ll share photos with you as it settles in – fingers crossed it all works!

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Some photos for how it looks from other angles

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The Street Front Veggie Patch 3; Or how to make a wicking bed

So how did we take this rubbish –

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And end up with this (if I may say so), rather sexy veggie patch?

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It was a lot of trial and error, but any project that is upcycling tends to be, a lot of googling, this blog was definitely one of the best I found( and I figured if it worked in Perth temperatures, it would handle Canberra) all followed by just going for it and crossing our fingers.

To start with – a wicking bed (particularly in a really dry climate) needs to be water tight, have some way to top up the reservoir (check out our earlier post) and appropriate drainage so that if there is a heavy down pour the excess water has some where to go rather then build up around the plants.

One way to create the drain hole when using a bath tub is to flip the drain hole at the bottom  – so that the pipe that would go from the bath to the sewer goes up into the bath instead – like the figure below – this means that any water above the water line drains out.
bathAs we used old spas we had a lot of holes to plug – for ease we bought plumbing caps from a hardware shop – measure them – I wasted a couple of hours back and forth because I eyeballed them….!   Also spend the extra few dollars on “this will stick to anything, can be used in a kitchen and under water glue” it means you don’t have to wait for anything to dry – or be overly concerned about how clean the surfaces are. When you are working with old materials outside it can be a life saver.  (we had rain or snow 4 out of the 5 weekends we worked on this… dry was not going to happen!) You can also use this glue as a quick sealant around any joins.

In this below figure i’m trying to visually articulate the run off – whilst intellectually I grasped the concept, at the draintime I struggled to translate it into an image in my head. The top figure is when you have overflow – the water is sitting over the reservoir level and is draining down the holes in the drain.

This means that the roots of your plants won’t be sitting in boggy conditions and avoids associated diseases.

The bottom figure is when the water is level with run off.

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What this looked like in really life was this –  the short fat pipe will be the drainage pipe and the tall thin pipe with holes will the fill pipe – we elected to drill little holes in the fill pipe to minimize any water pressure when filling the reservoir. The pipes don’t have to be next to each other – but it seemed the easiest way to hold the fill pipe up.

You’ll need to put a covering over the drainage pipe to ensure you don’t lose soil when it overflows – we used geo-fabric with rubber bands (from veggies) – what you can’t see here is that we put .5 cm wide vertical cuts down the lip of the pipe. We found that these made the baths drain more effectively.

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The short pipe can then be screwed on the upside down drainage pipe in the bath with a thin layer of glue and left to set – like so

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We did this for all 5 tubs and then began the fun bit of playing musical bath tubs to see how they’d fit in the space we had, as well as leveling the incredibly wet soil.  At this stage we’d already removed a few tonnes of soil… you’ll need to ensure the tubs are balanced and level – we used old bricks and pavers for the job.

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Joel looking all serious like….  (and did I mention the mud? Half the bricks sunk before they held anything up!)

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The local magpies thought the mud was great and sang for their supper

 


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i have no idea what i’d doing? Moving rocks?

The spas were really convenient as they came with a ready made frame, not so much the baths – so for those we had to make a frame as below –  we did them at two different heights for aesthetics and so I could have a bench – and all the wood is scrap wood from old projects. We rebuilt our back deck last year hence all the scrap wood.

 _MG_3732The next stage is to add the media into the reservoir. You can buy media, normally clay pellets or scoria ( volcanic rock) which I would recommend for smaller projects – it’s light weight and allows for more water retention. As we are trying to use renewable or re purposed stuff as much as possible I’d bought an huge amount of  plastic pots from the tip but they didn’t conform well to the shape of the tubs.

And as I had decided that the media had to go in RIGHT THEN I was really disappointed. At which stage I tripped over the massive pile of broken or cement covered bricks we had yet taken to the tip – Voila! Perfect height, there and a waste product!   Problem solved – we layered them up to the right depth then laid the permeate fabric over;

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For lack of a better description I tried to honey comb them for more support as well as leave as much space for water as possible

 

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You’ll want fabric up the edges so the soil doesn’t fill the reservoir

At this stage we had to finish for the day but to make sure the fabric stayed in place we put a few inches of soil in each bath shown in the below photo –

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You’ll want to ensure to have a valley for the soil in the beds – I went around the edges. This valley is where the soil sits in the water and creates the ‘wick’.

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We finished that weekend at this stage – which probably gave the neighbors a moment of concern (front yard). But I would recommend leaving ithe beds unclad for a week so you can check for leaks. Conveniently it rained heavily that night and the baths filled up so we had the opportunity to to check for water loss.

Next week I’ll take you through the cladding process we used to make the beds ‘pretty’ – that may not be an issue for you, but as these are in the front yard we wanted to make sure they made our house lovely and were something nice to look at for the neighbors.   Fairly sure we exceeded as our landscape gardener neighbor told us so! 🙂

Of pots, plants and paper

IMAG0729 I know inevitably I’ll buy plants this spring – like some people have a weakness for shoes or records, mine is plants. I can never have too many plants and I don’t always think through how appropriate they are for our climate, and I’m not allowed to have indoors plants due to allergies. (Excepting the bathroom – and you know what? If I can’t have a kitten I’m going to have a plant in the bathroom and it will love me. Fluffykins is adorable and may or may not be a cyclamen.)

But I digress. Last season I noticed that the tomato plants I purchased really struggled – where as the tomato seeds from compost (accidentally planted so to speak) grew really well – everywhere. Except the veggie garden…

This bought me around to try growing more plants from seed this year and learn the zen patience that comes from that process. I’m still learning the patience…

Even though in Canberra we are having one of the coldest Augusts in over 20 years, it’s time to start sowing seeds outside (onion, kale etc) and starting to grow seedlings somewhere warm – in this case, my bathroom.  (it’s a good look, deodorant, hairspray, bulb, sunscreen, jalapenos….) Turns out my bathroom is the shangri-la for seedlings and in only a week they’ve out grown their communal pots so I need to move them to something bigger.

As I am a) cheap, b) trying to up-cycle and reuse this year and c) lazy I’ve decided to go with newspaper seedling pots.

This is a great video about how to make pots from newspaper  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dlGQP81yfo  and is the technique I used. I took home old papers from work, and this means I can just plant the pots directly into the ground when they get bigger. (that’s the lazy part)

Growing from seed is more cost effective, and I can also minimize the trauma to the plants as transport is kept to a minimum. They will also acclimatize to our immediate micro-climate hopefully improving their rates of survival.  Where I can I’m taking the seeds out of my vegetables and I’ll try to grow plants form those… see how we go I guess.

In the meantime, Fluffykins can bond with the jalapeno seedlings in the bathroom.

The Street Front Veggie Patch: 2

 

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What is a wicking bed I hear you say?

Sometimes known as self watering pots, they are garden beds that have a reservoir underneath the soil that is full of water. The soil and the water is separated by a fabric of some kind (like a geotextile)  so it doesn’t create mud, and the soil remains moist by wicking up the water from the reservoir.

It awesomeness is manifold –

  • Firstly – your plants water themselves (woot!)
  • The soil remains at a higher temperature over winter because the reservoir and the moist soil retain heat better so you can ( in theory, I have yet to try) start seedlings earlier in the season
  • It seriously reduces evaporation as the water is under the soil
  • It saves on water as when it rains the reservoirs fill up ( rather then running down the drain…)
  • You can  keep the soil up to a high quality by adding worms and compost increasing your crop density
  • They can be built higher to save your back
  • If you do have to top up the reservoirs it is a sometimes activity, not daily and you can more easily stick to any water restrictions if your region has them
  • By watering from the bottom up you minimise water damage, such as rot, or ‘sunburn’ to your veggies
  • And did I mention your plants water themselves?

Easy right?

We struggled initially about how to build them as there a lot different instructions out in the interwebs and more importantly, we wanted to use only second hand stuff and build it on the cheap. We settled on bathtubs as the ideal containers to start with as our local tip had a lot –   and this was the ingredient list… (all purchased from the tip) –

  • 2 bath tubs
  • 3 corner baths
  • lots of corrugated iron
  • PVC pipe of various widths and lengths
  • Old bed frames ( it makes sense eventually)

We had a lot of left over scrap wood from a project last year which we used to clad the beds, but other stuff we used from the shed and garden;

  • A whole lot of pavers
  • old bed ribs (i’m not sure what they are actually called but they hold your bed up?)
  • Agapanthus from the front yard (after the apocalypse the world is going to be populated by cockroaches and agapanthus…nothing kills those things – including be left out of the ground in the frost for a month)

Make sure you use untreated wood if it is above the garden bed.  Treated wood is treated with pesticides, so while it’s great to keep out termites, you don’t want your veggies exposed to any chemicals that leak out. I have no idea about the level of risk, but as we are hoping to be eating mainly from these beds I figure it’s safer to avoid it.

But we did have to buy some new things

  • Permeate fabric – sometimes called geo fabric – we realised afterwards we could have used old carpet which would have been cheaper and second hand, but ah well… just make sure whatever you use won’t leak toxic stuff – as i am unsure about how to check this I suspect that permeate is still easier…. 
  • Hex screws –  they screw through anything to anything so made bolting sections together easier – we tried to reuse stuff from the shed, but as it put our marriage at risk we made the call to buy new. download
  • Another half tonne of soil (much less clay like!)
  • 2 bags of paving sand
  • 12 x 99 cent punnets of thyme
  • 1 giant punnet of colour ground cover

 

Needless to say – our garage looked like we’d collected the remains of a demolition job from a seedy motel, but it did eventually look fabulous –

How?

I’ll tell you next week – because I’m heading home to plant onion seeds.