Discussions (1441)
Tutorial: Make Your Colors Pop!!!
|
|
[Back to the Future] says:
|
|
|
simplyjake says:
Great tutorial. worked Great for me. One Addendum would be to Do the curves adjustment as a layer or on a Duplicate layer. This way you can adjust the effect with either the fade tool or going back into the Curves layer.
|
|
|
wirehead says:
Or you can just use Velvia.
|
|
|
Adam Holte says:
Nice Tutorial. I haven't done much work with Lab Color. Very interesting.
|
|
|
DWinton says:
nice. I've been playing with lab color recently and this is a great addition.
|
|
|
Junjan says:
Nice!
|
|
|
radiann says:
I was having no luck with this entire series of shots taken of these unique cacti until I tried this. What a difference! Thanks! |
|
|
Feileacán says:
Interesting stuff, I'll be experimenting with this as soon as possible!
|
|
|
Minimuffin says:
great tutorial
|
|
|
Mike Cohn says:
I've tried your technique and it certainly does work. My question is, what advantages does this offer over the simpler approach of using the saturation slider within the Hue/Saturation adjustment function?
|
|
|
WingNut says:
Great tutorial...Can someone please post a quick crash course on lab color? What is it good for? when should it be used? I generally use RGB on my photos, and CMYK on work that goes to press. Come to think of it, most photo labs use die-sub printers to print out digital photos. Does it make sense to use the CMYK model in that case? |
|
|
StarrGazr says:
Great!! Another fun thing to learn! Thanks Dave!! So...when's the book coming out?
|
|
|
aids_cruz says:
Tried it and it works great!! Thanks for this Tutorial. |
|
|
StarrGazr says:
|
|
|
[Back to the Future] says:
Wow Tracy, that's a stunning yellow! And I like the frame - nice shot. Book? Maybe someday. I downloaded Booksmart and started messing around with a book template - check out www.blurb.com/ - anybody can publish photos and text with this thing.
|
|
|
[Back to the Future] says:
@Wingnut - if you're really interested, check out this reading group - and order Dan Margulis' book on Photoshop LAB color on Amazon. That's what I did - no regrets. Awesome colorspace!
|
|
|
[Back to the Future] says:
@Mike Cohn - I don't have all the answers, but Margulis writes: "There is a whole world of LAB that is not so widely known, and which offers really, really better results than any other method." Simple answer, LAB color space has broader gamut. You get complete control of color correction. I'll never go back!
|
|
|
splitlenz says:
Ahh this is truely a great great tutorial. thank you so much. I find myself using this technique now for many many many photos lol. This is just too great of a technique to pass up on any photo for me. Ahh i just love it.
|
|
|
Harshit Sekhon says:
wow this is so cool ... my compact cam suffers from the inability to get the color saturation right ... looks like I'm going to be using this a lot ... thanks matey!
|
|
|
WingNut says:
Thanks for the pointer Macaddict! This certainly opens up a whole new avenue for me. |
|
|
Brian C Carter says:
Another good thing to do with LAB is to take the A channel and go Apply Image > Overlay to itself., then do the same with the B. This will push the colors as well. If you invert the channels while doing it, you'll neutralize the image. Sometimes if there's a cast, I'll neutralize it to get the cast out and then apply in overlay without inverting to push the colors that are left, but this only works sometimes.
|
|
|
*jasper* says:
Moving just one of the edges of the curve the way Macaddict describes gives a colored cast over the photo. So if one wants to adjust blue independently of yellow, one marks a gray point in the 'b' curve. It gives a little more freedom.
|
|
|
*Wizard* says:
thanks so much! |
|
|
Christiaan Leever NL says:
Hmm, sounds like a great tutorial, but I dont know if this needs to be done via lab colours? I always just use Control M and I adjust the curves as in image 4 (2ndlast image). This seems to give me the same effect as what you describe. My colours almost always pop. Maybe even too much for some :) |
|
|
simplyjake says:
Before |
|
|
Toby Keller / Burnblue says:
@Wingnut - Believe it or not, many pro inkjet printers do better with RGB files than CMYK. It depends on the RIP software (Raster Image Processor) that converts digital image data into instructions for the physical jetting of ink. It must convert CMYK files as well as RGB. You'd think CMYK would translate better, but that's not necessarily the case with photos.
|
|
|
balaclava9 says:
before |
|
|
phdstudent says:
haha! great. Althought inside I hear a voice screaming to agree with wirehead...
|
|
|
merAtSpain says:
Yup yup, great tutorial! thank you very much macadict!
|
|
|
willl says:
Before: |
|
|
christine [cbszeto] says:
Thank you! Thank you! I'm still practicing so these aren't perfect, but they are certainly a lot better than SOOC. Great tutorial-and SO easy to follow. |
|
|
AdaMacey says:
i guess flickr must strip profiles or firefox ignores them or something. Every browser ignores colour profiles. On topic though, I have to say thank you for this tip! I've been using it with great success for a week or so now, and it works wonderfully. Like cbszeto, I've also discovered the nice side effect of easy colour caste correction as well :) ages ago (permalink) |
|
|
josh.ev9 says:
Why do I love the technique group? Because of tips like this. This is AWESOME! Thanks!
|
|
|
P!ndaro says:
niiiiice
|
|
|
Mike Cohn says:
Where in the workflow do you recommend doing the Lab Color process? For example, before or after other RGB mode adjustments such as levels, curves, etc.?
|
|
|
altermativ says:
Thanks macaddict! I think I'm going to start using it on most of my pictures. I just tried it on various photos (indoors, outdoors, with flash or not) and it enhances most of them. |
|
|
AdaMacey says:
Is there a reaoson you use layers and opacity instead of adjusting the a and b curves to get a more realistic "pop" altermativ?
|
|
|
altermativ says:
I can always go back in the history and change the opacity easily. |
|
|
Bakari Chavanu says:
Seriously effective. Thanks for posting this. |
|
|
altermativ says:
As I answered to Bakari (check your messages), I shared my action on an upload site. It might not be around for long ( I think it gets deleted after 7 days of inactivity), but here it is: |
|
|
aestheticheart says:
this is why i need photoshop.
|
|
|
joopbie says:
my god this is like a life saver to many dull pictures..thanks macaddict :)
|
|
|
onlyb1 says:
Wonderful tutorial ! Thanx a million for sharing !!!
|
|
|
G0Da says:
WOW. I went throught and did this just as you said and I can not even believe the color difference. Its a bit much but im sure with some practice I will be using this all the time Thank you so much WOW>
|
industrious government [deleted] says:
Thanks a lot for this tutorial! I posted this before I found this thread: |
|
swift friction [deleted] says:
Great! now if this only works in Elements....
|
|
|
|
RastaRicanStudio says:
@usathyan, get the curves plug in for elements, google is your friend...or search elements group here on flickr, they have a link to the site. Peace |
|
|
RastaRicanStudio says:
The L*a*b color model separates color and luminosity completely. This allows us to |
|
|
RastaRicanStudio says:
@usathyan |
|
|
Diann* says:
This is just excellent...thank you.
|
|
|
Capture Queen ™ says:
Wow,,thank u
|
|
|
RastaRicanStudio says:
To all the PSE users I read in the PSE group that there are snoobs out there..if you don't have CS2 you ain't a real whatever. I hope noone feels that way here. If there is anything I can help with I'll try. |
|
|
Bob۞Who says:
Very cool lesson. Thanks! |
humorous calculator [deleted] says:
The results of this look good but I'm a bit of a numbnutz when it comes to colour spaces. If I send these for printing e.g. online, would it still come out alright?
|
|
|
|
Mike Cohn says:
You'll have to convert back to RGB before you can save as JPEG.
|
|
|
OPTheory says:
That is one awesome presentation of a tutorial! |
|
|
Viton says:
Really nice tutorial! Thanks!
|
|
|
Trevor Nerbas says:
wow.. thank you for this tutorial! i never knew of, or used, lab colour before... i got some amazing results in minutes that i usually have to work on for an hour.
|
|
|
cgrossmeier says:
Here is a great example... |
|
|
Auntie K says:
I love using lab colors! Your tutorial is a great way to create a nice, subtle but effective saturation. |
|
|
Speising says:
whats the difference or advantage of this to using the saturation and contrast sliders, anyway?
|
|
|
Trevor Nerbas says:
here's the photo i wrote about above that i used this technique on.. i'm really pleased with the results and will use this method on future images. |
|
|
ksquires says:
Speising - there's a huge difference, but it's really difficult to explain (at least for a non-expert like me). |
|
|
0 W8ing says:
I used Lab color on this one, too, specifically for its ability to drive the colors to extremes. |
|
|
Vicky Brock says:
Thank you for this great tip - this is my first attempt (I'm a novice). I don't have Photoshop but I used The GIMP and followed the tutorial the same way. I'm really going to do some experiementing with this technique! |
|
|
shinryuu says:
@balaclava9 and everybody else: Read this. This will answer why firefox messes with color profiles. Here
|
nebulous desk [deleted] says:
The tutorial above is helpful, but sometimes you want to really bring out colors that are very close together to do so follow the tutorial as above, but move the a and b sliders in LAB until they are almost vertical lines around some neutral point you have selected. At this point the image will look insanely brilliant as PS tries to display what are impossible colors for your monitor. Now close out of the curves layer, and tone things down by reducing its opacity to say 10%. You'll now find that very nicely separated colors impossible/very difficult to achieve in any other manner. Here is an example using this technique. |
|
nebulous desk [deleted] says:
There was a discussion on LAB color correction on another forum a few months ago. If you are interested have a look at LAB color correction.. |
|
enchanting string [deleted] says:
Just a comment - there are colour-space aware browsers - if you use a Mac. |
|
|
|
Mr Skel says:
My attempt: |
|
|
John Goldsmith says:
POP! |
|
|
SuniL. says:
great tutorial - fantastic results
|
|
|
_AM_ says:
Wow....great tutorial
|
|
|
cgrossmeier says:
TIP: If you want to selectively make a section pop, use Layer Adjustements in Photoshop. Apply your color changes, and then add a mask to the layer adjustment. I mask out the portions of the photo that I do not want corrected. |
|
|
Brian Stucki says:
Altermativ, any chance of getting that action posted again? If you can get it to me, I'll host it for others. |
|
|
Andy_on_Flickr says:
thanks for the amazing tips! |
|
|
[Back to the Future] says:
That's a great photo! Those colors pop! :)
|
|
|
Jose+Euge says:
@macaddict: again, thanks for the tutorial. I'm changing some of my previous photos. I found this "color pop" very good for landscapes. I'm not yet ready to move to a 100% color enhance, but I'mk on my way... ;-) |
|
|
[Back to the Future] says:
I like the blues and greens here Jose-Miguel. I'm glad the technique is working for you. You're right too, it's not for every shot, but t really does well with sky and field.
|
|
|
ficus says:
Thanks for the tutorial. Worked well on this image... |
|
|
fedewild says:
my first guess of this cool tecnique : |
|
|
wilkiecoco says:
Incredible tip!! I've always wanted to make my colours pop, so I tried your tut on a dull photo, and compared it to my usual technique of simply upping the saturation. Here are the results: |
|
|
wilkiecoco says:
Increased colours using Hue/Saturation: |
|
|
wilkiecoco says:
Using Lab Colour - Your Technique: |
great star [deleted] says:
Before: |
|
|
|
wilkiecoco says:
I don't think anyone has answered Mike's question. I'm also curious as to how the third step in the process relates to the normal level/curves adjustments we always do. Is that final curve in the luminosity channel supposed to replace the normal highlight/shadow/contrast adjustments we normally perform at the start of the workflow?
|
|
|
Kimfoto says:
I love this effect! I am palying around with some wedding shots-very cool! Thanks.
|
|
|
Nelson Minar says:
I just uploaded my Photoshop actions for doing this; you can download them here. I also made a blog post about it. One thing to be aware of; you're losing detail in the extremely colorful ends of your pictures when you do this. Not often a problem, but it's not a loss-free transformation.
|
nebulous desk [deleted] says:
Wilkiecoco: To answer your question I only do luminance and color adjustments in LAB now. I convert back to RGB only save the image and upload. |
|
|
|
Nelson Minar says:
In the actions I posted, I clamp 0-10 to 0 and 245-255 to 255 in the a and b channel. Something's got to be lost there, no? It just may not be anything you care about. I agree there's a lot more subtlety possible with Lab colour manipulation. Part of what's appealing about the method posted in this thread is it's a nice simple introduction.
|
nebulous desk [deleted] says:
nelson: why do you clamp 0-10 to 0 and 245-255 to 255? I don't really understand this as a and b goes from -127 to +127 in Lab (0 being no color - black/white/grey, postiive a's being magenta, negative a's being green, positive b being yellow, and negative b's being blue). It's very unlikely that any color someone deals with is going to be in the range (127-117) so maxing out at 117 is unlikely to have any effect on the final color range. What you are doing is increasing the slopes of the a and b curves, and so colors much closer to 0 get shifted corresponding further apart, but there is no reason why any colors should definitely max out.
|
|
|
|
Nelson Minar says:
Sorry, I mean to say I clamp 117-127 to 127 and -128:-118 to -128. I don't understand the Lab space well enough to have an intuition about what parts of my photos (if any) are likely to be there. So what sort of damage to the photo could this transform do? Other than making garish colours, that is :-)
|
nebulous desk [deleted] says:
Nelson: what I am staying is that it's very unlikely any of your original colors were anywhere near 117 plus/minus so they aren't going to be clipped. LAB is a very large color space. What is more likely is that colors are going to be pushed in places that are not representable in sRGB or CMYK, so when you transform back into sRGB you may well lose information that way, but not from clipping them to 117.
|
|
|
|
rpgwhitelock says:
Where this tutorial is from. |
|
|
ksquires says:
that's probably the best book on the subject.
|
|
|
RastaRicanStudio says:
LAB Saturation Actions |
|
|
decade_null says:
Nelson Minar: If you edit a and b channels using Levels-tool (instead of Curves as in this tutorial) it shows a histogram of those channels. I haven't yet seen a photo where there is anything in the edges of that histogram. So clipping the top and bottom of those channels doesn't really lose any information. (At least in theory. Monitors use RGB and printing CMYK instead of LAB colour. Converting the image back to those modes may lose information..)
|
|
|
[Back to the Future] says:
@brfuk - right, I produced this tutorial in Comic Life after reading about the technique in Margulis' book. Check out this reading group - and order Dan Margulis' book on Photoshop LAB color on Amazon. That's what I did ~ no regrets. |
|
|
calcitrate says:
wow, that's a great tutorial! thanks! |
nebulous desk [deleted] says:
There was a discussion on LAB color correction on another forum a few months ago which might be of interest: LAB color correction.
|
|
|
|
blazink says:
Thanks this is a great technique! |
















![DSCN6174[Adjusted]](https://static.flickr.com/48/150124768_c6bb892661_m.jpg)


























