Chagos Archipelago is perhaps the last bastion for would-be Robinson Crusoes. It is a bizarre community of cruising yachts running away from the world, forming a micro-society which is not completely free from the politics of the civilized one.
From the cruising point of view, Chagos is two atolls; Peros Banhos and Salomon Atoll. Salomon atoll offers a better protection from winds from all directions, though the best shelter requires anchoring on coral or wrapping a chain around a coral boulder for a mooring. Peros Banhos is a much larger atoll (about 12 miles across) and shifting winds force yachts there to move around for protection, particularly during the transition periods of the SW/SE monsoons.
While the lack of isolated cakes of coral makes navigation easier in Peros the steeply sloping sand bottom forces yachts to anchor in water 20m deep or more. A real pain in the ass for those without a push-button anchor winch. Aliisa never went to Peros, so I can't really tell you much about it. In 2005 the "fleet" of visiting yachts was almost split in half between the two atolls, many yachts spending their time in Peros Banhos and never visiting Salomon Atoll and vice versa. My impression is that Salomon atoll remains generally the more popular one.
Up to 50 or so yachts visit Chagos each year, though numbers vary from one year to another. The busiest season seems to be around April - May. Chagos is relatively safe at any time of the year, free of cyclones but not stranger to severe weather periods and violent squalls. There are a few remains of wrecked yachts reminding us of the care and common sense needed by all cruisers.
Administration
The area is administered by the Brits and officially called the British Indian Ocean Territory or BIOT. (I Hate Those Letter Combinations For Everything, from now on referred as IHTLCFE) The closest paper-pushers and bureaucrats are based in Diego Garcia, 120 miles south of the yachtie community, within a large US military base. (The Yanks are the tenants with practically a perpetual rental agreement.) The Fisheries Patrol travels up from Diego randomly to check up on things and chasing away any illegal fishing vessels in the area. They also carry onboard the British officials. The fee for yachts in 2005 was US 100 for a maximum 3 month stay, longer stays require re-payment only.
A spring tide exposes the coral pinnacles dotting the anchorage area in Salomon Atoll
The Brits conduct them self in an official manner, collecting money, stating rules and stamping passports with a dateless Diego Garcia stamp. The relationship between yachts and the British officials seems to be one of mutual tolerance, though in person the visiting crew and officials are relaxed and approachable, sometimes enjoying a game of volleyball with yachties on the beach.
It is important for all yachts to understand that their permission to visit Chagos is granted by the BIOT, it is not a birth right. All yachts should respect the rules and co-operate with both fisheries patrol and the British officials. Some assistance has been given to yachts in the past, causing some cruising yachties to think that they can use the visiting Patrol boat as a floating mail order / work shop / chandlery. Please don't expect any assistance or favors from Diego Garcia. The British Administration will assist in a genuine maritime distress, you know, a proper emergency. They also will - and have in the past - ban any yachts from Chagos that do not respect their authority. (When they ask you to leave, you can not refuse...)
During our visit in 2005 the issue of native Chagosians was very much on the board. More about that in the article about the history of Chagos. The story about our stay, from a personal point of view is called "Floating". The last Chagos-related link is about food, survival and provisioning.
