F

PD

CORSICA
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Edition 5th Edition

Release Date Jan 2010
Pages 296

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INSPIRATIONAL IDEAS &

DETAILED COVERAGE FOR FOODIES,
WALKERS & CULTURE-LOVERS

40

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think its fair to
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See Directory chapter for more practical information

QUICK REFERENCE
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

LONELY PLANET INDEX

For details of map symbols, see the Map

Legend on the last page of this book.

1L petrol
1L bottle of water

0.50

telephone
%
h
p parking available a
i internet available W
s swimming pool apt

Bottle of Pietra beer

Souvenir T-shirt

18

400g Brocciu cheese

about 9

d double rooms
f family rooms
s single rooms

opening hours
air-con available
wi-fi available
apartments
dm dorm beds
r rooms
ste suites

EXCHANGE RATES
Prices in this book are quoted in euro ()
unless otherwise stated. 1 euro () = 100 cents.
For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.
Australia

A$1

0.58

Canada

C$1

0.63

Japan

100

0.76

New Zealand

NZ$1

0.47

UK

UK1

1.14

USA

US$1

0.70

BUSINESS HOURS
Banks

8am or 9am-11.30am or 1pm

& 1.30pm-4.30pm or 5pm
Mon-Fri or Tue-Sat

Bars & clubs 7pm-2am or 3am

Businesses
& shops

9am-noon & 2pm or 3pm-6pm

or 7pm Mon-Fri or Mon-Sat

Restaurants noon-2pm or 3pm & 6.30pm-

11pm.
Post offices

8.30am or 9am-5pm or 6pm

Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat

Tourist
offices

9am-noon or 1pm & 2pm or

3pm-5pm Mon-Fri

1.20

TELEPHONE
Area codes are integral to telephone
numbers simply dial the 10-digit numbers
as they appear in this guide. When calling
from abroad, drop the initial 0.
France country code

%33

International access code

%00

Ambulance

%15

Police

%17

Fire department

%18

Emergencies

%112

Local directory inquiries

%12

CONVERSIONS
1in = 2.54cm
1cm = 0.39in
1m = 3.3ft = 1.1yd
1ft = 0.3m
1km = 0.62 miles
1 mile = 1.6km
1kg = 2.2lb
1lb = 0.45kg
1g = 0.04oz
1oz = 28g
1 imperial gallon = 4.55L
1L = 0.26 US gallons
1 US gallon = 3.8L
1L = 0.22 imperial gallons

Exceptions are noted in specific listings.

5TH EDITION Published Jan 2010 First Published Aug 1999

USA $21.99 UK 13.99

CORSICA

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET
MILES RODDIS, NEIL WILSON

00a-title-cor5.indd 1

16/10/2009 10:38:27 AM

p83

p58

#
Calvi \

Calvi

Pointe de la Revellata Golfe de

#
\

N197

\
#
#
\

St-Antonino
Cateri

le Rousse
#
\
Algajola

Ligurian Sea

Calvis citadel and the picturesque

hilltop villages of the Balagne
never fail to impress

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

N197

D81

#
Murato \

GOLFE DE PORTO

D81

D51

0
0

an

N193

tang de
0

Col de
Teghime

Miomo

Erbalunga

Pietracorbara

Bastia

#
\

#
\

#
\

#
\

D80

Marine de
0

Santa
Severa

Macinaggio

#
\

#
\

0
0

#
\

N198

MorianiPlage

#
\

Biguglia Plage de
# la Marana
\
Bastia Poretta 1
" \
#
lo
Plage de
Go
Pineto
#
\
Vescovato

#
Oletta \

Patrimonio
Dsert des
#
\
Agriates
#
St-Florent \

D80

#
Nonza \

Golfe de
St-Florent

Luri

#
\

Barcaggio

Cap
Corse

#
\

#
Morsiglia \
#
Pino \

#
\

Centuri

Capo
Grosso

Le Nebbio
" Calvi Ste- La Balagne
1
Catherine
# Calenzana
\
Sheer pink cliffs that tumble into
HAUTE-CORSE
#
\
Suare
a turquoise sea
# Argentella
\
#
Ponte \
Leccia
Parc Naturel
Rgional de
#
Galria \
#
\
la Corse
$ Mont San
Haut \
Fangu
#
Petrone
Asco
N193
$
Mont Cinto
Rserve
La
Girolata
Naturelle "
U #
\
Castagniccia
# Castirla
\
de Scandola
Gorges de
Le Boziu
Calacuccia D84
#
\
#
\
Capo Senino Osani Spelunca
# Corte
Valle du Niolo n \
Golfe de Porto
ig
Fort de
a
v
ic
a
Les Porto \
Ota
#
U
uT eston
#
\
visa Valdu Niellu "
Calanques
ed
#
\
ll la R
"
U
#
a
Piana \
# Vencao
\
Capo
#
\
e
$
V
Fort
Marignana
Tav N200
e d Mont
Rosso
ig na no
ll
d'Atone
D81
a
Fajo
Cardo \
V
# Vivario

Mediterranean
Sea

CORSICA

p44

Oodles of picnic spots, natural

rock pools and walking trails await

CORTE & THE

CENTRAL MOUNTAINS p169

A maquis-clad peninsula studded

with Genoese towers and quaint
fishing villages

CAP CORSE

40 km

0
!

20 miles

#
\
#

p100

184

105

69

127

68

92

79

171

131

155

125

79

86

220

165

145

64

66

231

79

#
Tizzano \

#
Campomoro \

Golfe de Valinco

D83

#
\

Travo

Bonifacio
Cap
les Lavezzi
Pertusato

#
\

#
\

Porto-Vecchio

Plage de
Palombaggia
#
\
Plage de
Santa Giulia

#
\

Golfe de
Porto-Vecchio

p143

LEGEND

Airport

Railway line

Tertiary Road

Secondary Road

Primary Road

2500m
2000m
1500m
1000m
500m
200m
100m
0

ELEVATION

Laze, swim or snorkel the day

away on these deserted islands

LES LAVEZZI

p132

A land of megalithic remains, the

iconic Aiguilles de Bavella and
picturesque hilltop villages

LALTA ROCCA

Tyrrhenian
Sea

tang
d'Urbino
Ghisonaccia

# Cateraggio
\

tang
de Diane

# Solenzara
\

#
\

#
\

Golfe de Sant'Amanza
0
N198

D859

Bouches de Bonifacio

Capo di
Feno

Baie de Figari

#
\

Figari
Sud Corse
"
1
# Figari
\
PianattoliCaldarello

N196

#
\

CORSE-DU-SUD

Granace
Sartne

#
\

#
\

#
\

Travo

#
\

# Favone
\
Rocca
# Tarco
\
Zonza Conca \
#
Levie \
#
Fort de
#
L'Ospdale \
#
\
Ste-Lucie
"
U
Ste-Lucie
de Portode Tallano
Vecchio
# L'Ospdale
\

D69

Monte
Occhiato

Parc Naturel
Rgional de
la Corse
Chis

Monte
Incudine
0

#
Zicavo \

#
\

Le Fiumorbu
0
D69

D344

Pinzalone

Bavella \
#
#
Aullne \
L'Alta
Quenza

Propriano

Olmeto

N196

Le Sartenais

\
#

Bocognano

0
Haut
Taravo

\
#

#
\

Monte
Fort de
d'Oro $ Vizzavona
#
Vizzavona \
" \
U
#Ghisoni

#
Bastelica \
elli
run
P
du

N193

PetretoBicchisano \
#

U Ruppione

Verghja
#
\
#
Portigliolo \
Acqua
#
Doria \
D155
Capo di
Porto
Muro
#
Pollo \

#
\

#
Porticcio \

Campo
dell'Oro
"
1

D81

D70

#
Ajaccio \

Golfe
d'Ajaccio

Note: Distances between destinations are approximate

Solenzara

Propriano

Corte

Calvi

Bonifacio

146

DISTANCE CHART (KM )

Overlooking an azure sea, this

impregnable citadel has lots of
beaches nearby

p129

lv

Ca

Bastia

Capo di
Feno

rte

BONIFACIO

MEDITERRANEAN
SEA

Golfe
de Sagone

Pointe de la Parata

Sample la dolce vita at this chic

seaside resort

cio

Co

AJACCIO

cio

ac

Aj

sti

Ba

ifa

Bo
n

no

Va
ll
e

#
Cargse \

ia

op

Pr

Ta
rav
o

Ta
rav
o

CORSICA

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET

INTRODUCING

FROM RURAL RETREATS AND

RUSTIC CUISINE TO CHIC
COASTAL RESORTS AND
STUNNING BEACHES, THE ISLAND
OF CORSICA REALLY PACKS A
PUNCH.

BONIFACIO
OLIVIER CIRENDINI

Take a stunningly contoured coastline, add

pleated mountains, and sprinkle in attractive coastal cities and timeless hilltop villages.
Next, pepper the island with historical sights,
spike it with a taste-bud-teasing culinary scene
and there you have Corsica, Lle de Beaut (the
Isle of Beauty).
First and foremost, get your tan. From showy
Plage de Palombaggia to multipurpose Plage de
Portigliolo, Corsica rolls out one fabulous beach
after another. When youve had enough splashy
fun, youll find amazing things to do on dry
land as well. Those mountains looming inward
hold adventures all of their own, from thrilling
canyoning descents to gentle walks in majestic
forests. Wherever you go, opportunities for exploration abound. Drive around remote valleys
to find that perfect picnic spot, or take a boat
trip to discover unspoilt stretches of coastline.
Food lovers will revel in trendy paillottes (beach
restaurants) serving the freshest of fish, and in
snug restaurants featuring Corsican staples. For
culture bus, prehistoric sites and heritage buildings await. Its hard to find a better combination
of nature, culture and pleasure.
TOP The stunning setting of Bonifacio (p129) BOTTOM
LEFT The awesome mountain pass of Scala di Santa Regina
(p179), in the central mountains BOTTOM RIGHT The

rocky inlets of Les Calanques (p94), Golfe de Porto

CORTE & THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

TONY WHEELER

GOLFE DE PORTO

AJACCIO

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 6

15/10/2009 2:05:51 PM

OLIVIER CIRENDINI

OLIVIER CIRENDINI

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET
SIM-KAOS02 / 4CORNERS

LES LAVEZZI

OLIVIER CIRENDINI

OLIVIER CIRENDINI

TOP LEFT The vibrant port of Ajaccio (p100) TOP

RIGHT Exploring the waters of the les Lavezzi (p132)
BOTTOM LEFT Calvis impressive citadel (p59), as seen
from the beach BOTTOM CENTRE Coastline along
Cap Corse (p44) BOTTOM RIGHT Walking on Col de

Bavella (p148), LAlta Rocca

JEFF CANTARUTTI

CAP CORSE

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 7

LALTA ROCCA

15/10/2009 2:05:54 PM

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
STEPHANE VICTOR

GETTING
STARTED
CORSICA

WHATS NEW?

A multipurpose cultural centre near Corte (p175)

Sea-kayaking trips around
Campomoro (p123) and in
the Golfe de Pinarello (p141)
A parc aventure (adventure
park) in the Valle du Cavu
(p141)

CLIMATE: AJACCIO
C

Temp

A refurbished museum in
the Alta Rocca (p146)
Ecofriendly gtes ruraux
(self-contained cottages)
near Cervione (p253)
A botanical park in le
Rousse (p72)

Rainfall

in

40

104

150

30

86
4

100

20

68
2

50

10

50

32

J F MAM J J A S O N D

Average
Max/Min

mm

J F MAM J J A S O N D

PRICE GUIDE
BUDGET

MIDRANGE

TOP END

SLEEPING

<60

60-140

>140

EATING

<15

15-30

>30

<20

20-50

>50

ACTIVITIES

OLIVIER CIRENDINI

MARK WEBSTER

TOP Sunrise in the Bavella area (p148) BOTTOM LEFT Large gorgonian, les Lavezzi (p132) BOTTOM
RIGHT Picturesque Bonifacio (p129) FAR RIGHT Walking the GR20 (p214)

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 8

15/10/2009 2:05:56 PM

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

ACCOMMODATION
One of the best features of Corsican tourism is the variety of accommodation options
on oer, from rustic gtes dtape (walkers lodges) and charming chambres dhtes
(B&Bs) to swish hotels and sophisticated villas. A key factor to consider is the wild
dierence in price between the high season (July and August) and the rest of the
year; during the peak months prices can be jacked up by 100%. Also note that the
interior of the island is cheaper than the coast, but options are less varied. For more
on accommodation, see p240.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY

CAMPO DELLORO AIRPORT (AJA; www.ajaccio.aeroport.fr) Ajaccios airport serves the
west. Its 8km from the centre of town.
BASTIA PORETTA AIRPORT (BIA; www.bastia.aeroport.fr) The islands second-most important airport after Ajaccio. Located near Bastia, its convenient for Cap Corse, StFlorent and eastern Corsica.
FIGARI SUD CORSE AIRPORT (www.figari.aeroport.fr) Located about 20km from Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio, its also convenient for Propriano and southern Corsica.
STEPHANE VICTOR

THINGS TO TAKE

Detailed road maps to tackle

those nerve-racking hinterland roads; see p262

Driving licence, car documents and car insurance

Lonely Planets French

phrasebook

Walking shoes for the islands

oh-so-tempting trails

A set of smart-casual clothes

for that special candlelit
dinner

WEBLINKS
LAGENCE DU TOURISME DE LA CORSE (www.visit-corsica.com) The ocial touristboard site.
ALLER EN CORSE (www.allerencorse.com) Accommodation listings and practical
information.
PARC NATUREL RGIONAL (www.parc-naturel-corse.com) Information on walking.
CORSICA ISULA (www.corsica-isula.com) An exhaustive English-language website.

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 9

15/10/2009 2:05:59 PM

10

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
MARTIN THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY

FESTIVALS
& EVENTS
CORSICA

MARCH/APRIL
PROCESSIONS DE LA
SEMAINE SAINTE
Easter celebrations include La Cerca (p45)
in Erbalunga, U Catenacciu (p125) in
Sartne, La Granitola in Calvi and the procession of the Five Orders in Bonifacio.

FIERA DI U MARE
SOLENZARA

This sea festival held in mid-June features sailing races and seafood-cooking
competitions.

CALVI JAZZ FESTIVAL

CALVI

A MERENDELLA IN
CASTAGNICCIA
PIEDICROCE

Festival celebrating regional cuisine; held

over the Easter weekend (p159).

Concerts and jam sessions featuring big

names from the international jazz scene
take place in late June.

JULY
A NOTTE DI A MEMORIA

MAY/JUNE
FESTIMARE
LE ROUSSE

Celebrates the sea with plenty of fish and

seafood specials, plus various amusements. Held late May or early June.

BASTIA

A historical re-enactment of the Genoese

governors arrival is held in the citadel;
occurs in early July.

NUITS DE LA GUITARE
PATRIMONIO

ST-RASME
AJACCIO, BASTIA, CALVI

Nautically themed festivities, boat rides

and fishing-boat blessings honour the
patron saint of fishermen on 2 June.

One of Europes largest guitar festivals is

held in the Nebbio around mid-July (p56).

CALVI ON THE ROCKS

CALVI

Three days of electronic and experimental

music; held in mid-July.
TOP Drummers marching through Ajaccio RIGHT Procession at the Santa di u Niolo (p180), Casamaccioli

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 10

15/10/2009 2:06:00 PM

11

AUGUST
PLERINAGE DE
NOTRE-DAME-DES-NEIGES
BAVELLA

This pilgrimage to the miracle-working

Madonna on Col de Bavella on 5 August
draws massive crowds.

FTES NAPOLONIENNES
AJACCIO

This hugely popular festival celebrating

Napolons birthday is held in midAugust, and features fireworks, parades
and various amusements.

SEPTEMBER

RENCONTRES DE CHANTS
POLYPHONIQUES
CALVI

Festival of polyphonic singing held at

various venues in the citadel. Takes place
in mid-September.

TOUR DE CORSE CYCLISTE

A four-day cycling race around the island.

OCTOBER
FESTIVENTU
CALVI

This festival celebrates the role of the wind

with hundreds of kites on the beach. Its
held in late October.

SANTA DI U NIOLO
CASAMACCIOLI

Thousands of pilgrims celebrate the Nativity of the Virgin around 8 September

(p180).

LES MUSICALES DE BASTIA

BASTIA

Jazz, classical music, dance and theatrical

performances.

ARCO IMAGES GMBH / ALAMY

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 11

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12

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
BENSLIMAN HASSAN / DREAMSTIME.COM

CULTURE
CORSICA

CHURCHES

ROMANESQUE TO BAROQUE

CATHDRALE ST-RASME
One of Corsicas earliest baroque churches, this has a
magnificent organ (p151).

Possibly the most appealing curiosities on the

islands architectural landscape are the delightful
9th- to 11th-century Pisan Romanesque churches
of the northwest. Only about 10 survive. Common
features are easily discerned: the sober structure
of a single nave and no transept; the square-based
bell tower; and the typically Tuscan two-tone
banding. The most striking Romanesque churches
are the glise de San Michele de Murato (p57),
and the Cathdrale de la Canonica, south of Bastia.
Later came the Genoese, who introduced baroquestyle architecture to the island. The most stunning
baroque churches can be seen in La Castagniccia; a
particularly notable example is in La Porta (p160).
The churches all feature splendid church organs
and sumptuously decorated interiors, forming a
striking contrast to the surrounding landscapes.
See p203 for more on religious architecture.

GLISE ST-JEAN BAPTISTE

The most refined example of
a baroque church in Corsica
(p160).
GLISE STE-MARGUERITE
A landmark in the Castagniccia due to its bell tower and
baroque stucco ornamentation
(p160).
GLISE ST-DOMINIQUE
A rare example of a Gothic
church in Corsica (p131).

EMILY RIDDELL

CHAPEL OF SAN NICOLAO

In the Boziu, this little Romanesque chapel has magnificent
frescos (p181).
GLISE DE SAN MICHELE
DE MURATO With its distinctive two-colour banding,
this is the most gorgeous Pisan
church in Corsica (p57).

TOP glise de San Michele de Murato (p57), near Murato BOTTOM Shopping in Bonifacio (p129) RIGHT
Out and about on rue Clemenceau, Calvi (p59) FAR RIGHT glise St-Jean Baptiste (p38), Bastia

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 12

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13

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TOP MUSEUMS
MUSE FESCH Frances second-largest collection of Italian paintings. Undergoing
renovations at research time (p100).
MAISON BONAPARTE This 19th-century house was Napolons birthplace (p102).
MUSE DE LALTA ROCCA A good introduction to prehistoric Corsica (p146).
MUSE DE LA CORSE The most comprehensive museum on the island (p169).
MAISON NATALE DE PASCAL PAOLI Oers an insight into the life of the Father
of the Land (p161).
OLIVIER CIRENDINI

SIME/KAOS02 / 4CORNERS

DONT MISS EXPERIENCES

Easter celebrations Corsicas Easter processions are highly colourful (p10)

Polyphonic chants The most famous choirs

hold performances in churches in summer

Fresco hunting Chapels and churches boast

some hidden gems

Buying artisan crafts The workshops at

Pigna are well worth the detour (p78)

Treasure hunts Approach locals to solve riddles about Cortes illustrious past (p175)

Art galleries Investigate Calvis showrooms,

galleries and workshops (p67)

Knife making See master craftspeople fashioning traditional knives (p147)

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 13

DOS & DONTS

Wear bathing suits on the

beach, never in towns or
villages

Dont wear flip-flops or Tshirts in restaurants, cafes

or clubs

Avoid meddling with local

politics or criticising the
nationalist movements

Keep your temper dont

use the horn if drivers block
the road just to talk

Be courteous say Bonjour Madame or Bonjour

Monsieur

15/10/2009 2:06:02 PM

14

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
JEFF CANTARUTTI

CULTURE
CORSICA

PREHISTORY

POLYPHONIC MUSIC

FILITOSA Impressive statues

shrouded in mystery (p117).

Corsicas unique polyphonic singing is the voice

of the islands soul.

PIANU DI LEVIE Wellpreserved megalithic remains

amid an eerie wood (p146).

A FILETTA (www.afiletta.com) One of Corsicas

polyphonic flagships.

CAURIA Menhirs and dolmens galore (p126)!

CASTELLU DARAGGIO A
small complex hidden in the
hills (p142).
MUSE DE LALTA ROCCA
Recently upgraded museum
that does a good job explaining the islands prehistory and
culture (p146).

JP POLETTI & LES CHOEURS DE SARTNE

Famous for their gut-wrenching lamenti
(laments).
JACKY MICAELLI (www.jackymicaelli.com) Considered the best living female vocalist in Corsica.
TAVAGNA (www.tavagna.com) A group thats stayed
true to its roots.
I MUVRINI (www.muvrini.com) The stars of Corsican music combine polyphonic vocals with
modern instruments.

THE GENOESE LEGACY

Somewhere or other youll have seen that classic photo of a stately Genoese tower
silhouetted on a rocky promontory at sunset. Around 60 of these iconic fortified
structures punctuate the coastline, a reminder of centuries of Genoese presence on
the island. Dating from the 16th century, they stand today in various states of repair; some of them, such as the Tour de Campomoro (p122), have been wonderfully
restored, while others are crumbling away. The most impressive of these stunning
structures are to be found around Cap Corse, but southern Corsica and the west
coast also boast some superb examples. See p46 for more information.
TOP Menhir statues, Filitosa (p117) RIGHT Corsica contains numerous villages dotted throughout the
countryside

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 14

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15

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

SONS OF CORSICA
A great soldier, Sampiero Corso (14981567; p191) became known as the most Corsican of Corsicans and fought with French forces against the Genoese occupiers. He
secured control of most of the island in 1564, but was finally defeated in a typical Corsican blood feud after he strangled his wife. Pascal Paoli (p193), Corsicas revolutionary leader, headed Corsica during its short period of independence between 1755 and
1769; Corsicans call him the Babbu di a Patria (Father of the Land). He gave Corsica a
democratic constitution that inspired that of the United States of America. Though he
was Corsicas most famous son, Napolon (17691821; p196) had ambivalent feelings
about his homeland and paid scant attention to Corsica during his period of power.

HILLTOP VILLAGES
Traditional Corsican culture can be explored in hamlets scattered through the countless valleys and spurs that slice up the islands dramatic scenery.

Deep in the Alta Rocca, Zonza is blessed with a fabulous backdrop the awesome
Aiguilles de Bavella (p144).

Lama is a fairy-tale hamlet with fine mansions and Italianate palazzi (p79).

Cap Corses prettiest village, Nonza, clings to the flanks of a rocky pinnacle (p48).

The splendidly isolated hamlet of Tralonca, in Le Boziu, is served by twisting

mountain roads (p181).

OLIVIER CIRENDINI

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 15

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16

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET

FOOD &
DRINK
CORSICA

LOCAL PRODUCE

CHARCUTERIE

CHARCUTERIE Corsica is famous for its flavoursome cured

meats, made from free-range
pigs that feed on chestnuts.

In Corsica, charcuterie has been elevated to an art

form. Connoisseurs swear by the porcu nustrale,
the Corsican pig breed also known as porcu neru
(black pig); the finest Corsican charcuterie derives
its flavour from the pigs diet of acorns and chestnuts. Wherever you go, youll find a wide array
of cured meats on oer. The most sought-after
produce is prisuttu (dry ham), which has an unforgettable hazelnut taste. Lonzu (tender smoked
fillet), cut into thin slices, makes for a wonderful
appetiser, while salamu (salami-style sausage) is
perfect picnic fodder. Coppa (shoulder) has a bit
more fat than lonzu but tastes equally good. In
winter, figatellu (liver sausage) is eaten grilled.
And lets not forget terrine de sanglier (wild-boar
pt), usually flavoured with myrtle. Charcuterie
can be purchased in speciality shops; see p231 for
more information. Buon appititu!

CHEESE The island has cheesemaking down to a fine art.

OLIVE OIL La Balagne and
LAlta Rocca produce extremely aromatic olive oils.
HONEY Corsican honey is
produced from bees that feed
exclusively on the wildflowers
of the maquis.
WINES & LIQUEURS Corsica
has nine Appellation dOrigine
Contrle (AOC) wines and
countless fruit liqueurs.

OLIVIER CIRENDINI

SEAFOOD Lobster, oysters,

squid, sea bass, musselsCorsica has them all.

TOP Meat cooking on an open fire BOTTOM Cured meat RIGHT Corsica supports a thriving fishing
industry FAR RIGHT Fresh seafood

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17

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TOP INNS
U FRAGNU The specialities at this atmospheric inn couldnt be more Corsican (p181).
A MANDRIA DE SBASTIEN Traditional Corsican cuisine in a chic rustic cottage
(p167).
LE MOULIN FARELLACCI A gargantuan Corsican menu and fantastic Corsican
music (p118).
A PIGNATA A scrumptious seven-course meal and million-dollar views (p147).
U TARAVU Home-cured charcuterie and local cheeses are a taste-bud feast (p110).
OLIVIER CIRENDINI

PHOTO CREDIT

OLIVIER CIRENDINI

DONT MISS EXPERIENCES

Purchasing local products Stock up on

cheese, charcuterie and jams

Splurging in an auberge Devour traditional

dishes at a local inn

Sampling seafood Taste a bounteous range of

marine oerings at a seafood restaurant

A meal in a paillotte Lunch at a sand-inyour-toes beach restaurant

Wine tasting Tour the best Corsican domaines to find that perfect ros

Food fairs Mingle with local farmers at a

country fair

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 17

PRODUCE SHOPS
LORRIU Porto-Vecchio institution selling top-quality local
specialities (p138).
TEMPI FA Jams, wine, cheese
and charcuterie in trendy surrounds (p122).
PTISSERIE CASANOVA An
irresistible selection of Corsican sweets and desserts (p176).
U MUNTAGNOLU Huge
range of high-quality Corsican
goodies (p43).
TERRA CORSA Fine charcuterie and homemade ewesmilk cheeses (p98).

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18

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET

FOOD &
DRINK
CORSICA

WEBLINKS

FOOD FAIRS

CORSICAN WINES (www

.vinsdecorse.com) Comprehensive
site on local wines, with full
information on wine estates.

Food and wine are celebrated throughout Corsica at rural fairs.

CHEESE (www.fromages-corse.org)
All about Corsican cheeses and
the Fiera di u Casgiu food fair.
TERROIRS DE CORSE (www
.corsica-terroirs.com) Information
on Corsican specialities, with
themed hinterland itineraries.
CORSICAN PRODUCTS
(www.casa-corsa.fr) A one-stop

shop for Corsican products.

FESTA DI LOLIU NOVU Ste-Lucie de Tallanos olive-oil festival in mid-March (p148).

FIERA DI A CASTAGNA Honours the chestnut; held in mid-December in Bocognano, near
Vizzavona.
FIERA DI U CASGIU Celebrates cheese; takes
place in early May in Venaco.
FIERA DI U VINU A wine fair held in early July
in Luri (p50).
FOIRE DU COL DE PRATO Lively agricultural
fair in July (p161).

CHARCUTERIE (www.u-porcu
-neru.com) Everything about
charcuterie, plus pictures.

CORSICAN WINES: A SUCCESS STORY

How things have changed. Fifteen years ago, Corsican wines did not have a good
reputation, but now its a completely dierent story. Using modern vinification
methods, the younger generation of winemakers have raised the standard of Corsican wine, resulting in a number of domaines, such as Domaine Torraccia (p142) and
Domaine Leccia (p56), gaining international recognition. One of the great pleasures
of touring the regions of Corsica is tasting your way through them. There are no established wine routes, but there are nine AOC regions you can visit. Most domaines
oer wine tasting. See p235 for more information.
TOP The popular meat treat, charcuterie (p231), is found everywhere on the island RIGHT Heaven for food

and wine lovers

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19

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

CHEESE
Gourmands will delight in all the flavours and textures of Corsican cheeses, from
hard, tangy tomme corse (semihard ewes-milk cheese) to a soft Niolincu and the
star of all Corsican cheeses, the Brocciu (fresh ewes or goats cheese). Brocciu is
produced from December to June only. It can be eaten fresh or aged; stued into
eggplants, cannelloni, and omelettes with mint; or baked in a fiadone cheesecake.
For the bravest connoisseurs or the truly adventurous, the casgiu merzu is, quite
literally, a rotten cheese alive with maggots! Believe us, it will linger long on the
palate.

SWEET TREATS
Ice creams, tarts, cakes and biscuits Corsicas dessert menu is sure to tempt you.

Canistrelli Devilish biscuits made with almonds, walnuts, lemon or aniseed

Frappe Look and taste like little fritters; made from chestnut flour

Honey The most fragrant is the miel de maquis from the Valle de lAsco

Falculelli Frittered Brocciu cheese served on a chestnut leaf

Fiadone A light flan made with cheese, lemon and eggs

Ice cream Original flavours such as myrtle, Brocciu or chestnut

ANDREW WHEELER / ALAMY

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20

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET

OUTDOORS
CORSICA

BOOKS

ON LAND

TRAVERS LA
MONTAGNE CORSE (FFRP)
The reference guide for the
GR20.

The rugged terrain of this little-populated island

really does beg to be hiked, biked, skied, climbed
and otherwise actively pursued. The numberone reason to come to Corsica is to get o the
roads and into the wild on foot. Some of the
most inspirational hiking trails in Europe are
to be found here, from the challenging GR20 to
gentle afternoon strolls in the forests and coastal
ambles (p214). Canyoning and rock climbing are
also well established. But you neednt be limited
to your own two feet: try a four-legged creature
or see it all from above from a rope slide! These
activities have one thing in common: all pass
through scenery of bewildering beauty. Good
news: you dont need previous experience. Numerous outfits have developed an impressive
infrastructure all over Corsica and run programs
for beginners. See p206 for more information.

BALADES NATURE
EN CORSE (Dakota Editions)
Describes 26 short walks. Includes maps and illustrations.
CORSE CANYONS (Franck
Jourdan) Has descriptions and
reviews of the top canyons.
FALAISES DE CORSE
(Thierry Souchard) A reference
guide for rock climbing, with
information on the best routes.

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET

GR20 CORSICA: THE

HIGH-LEVEL ROUTE (Paddy Dillon) Another reliable
guide on the GR20.
LES PLUS BELLES
PLONGES DE CORSE
(Georges Antoni) Good allround resource for divers. Includes a DVD.

TOP Get a grip while rock climbing (p213) BOTTOM Horse riding (p212) on the beach RIGHT Your trip to
Corsica is incomplete without doing at least one walk (p214) FAR RIGHT An inviting spot for a swim

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21

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TOP SHORT WALKS

LE TOUR DE SNQUE Provides a spectacular panorama over Cap Corse (p50).
CAPU ROSSU This slim promontory has stunning views of the Golfe de Porto (p95).
LE SENTIER MULETIER A glorious panorama of Les Calanques from a historic
track that few visitors tread (p95).
PLATEAU DU COSCIONE This plateau is reminiscent of Mongolian steppes (p145).
LAC DE MELU & LAC DE CAPITELLU Unforgettable alpine scenery, with two
postcard-perfect glacial lakes (p178).
JAN CSERNOCH / ALAMY

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET

DONT MISS EXPERIENCES

SPECIALISTS

Exploring the coastline Rent a sea kayak

or take a guided trip in the Golfe du Valinco
(p123)

IN TERRA CORSA (www

.interracorsa.fr) Covers activities in
central Corsica.

Walking Combine walking, picnicking and

taking a dip in the Valle du Tavignano (p175)

CORSAVENTURE (www.corse
-aventure.com) A well-established

Taking the plunge The crystal-clear waters

o les Lavezzi are an ideal place to learn to
dive (p131)

Playing Tarzan Glide along cables strung

over the Asco river (p180)

Canyon descents Plunge down waterpolished chutes in the Canyon de la Vacca

(p148)

Horse riding Gallop along Plage de Cateraggio (p140)

00b-front-colour-cor-5.indd 21

operator. Oers climbing,

walking, sea kayaking, rafting
and canyoning.
ALTIPIANI (www.altipiani-corse
.com) Mountain biking, canyoning, walking and rock climbing
near Corte.
OBJECTIF NATURE (www.ob
jectif-nature-corse.com) Sea and land
activities in northern Corsica.
COULEUR CORSE (www
.couleur-corse.com) Can organise all
types of activities.

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22

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET

OUTDOORS
CORSICA

WEBLINKS

KAYAKING EXCURSIONS

GR20 (www.le-gr20.com/gb) Comprehensive site on the iconic

GR20. Includes info on accommodation, wildlife, equipment
and the 16 stages.

Guided sea-kayaking trips oer a turtles-eye

view of the coastline.

CANYONING (www.descente
-canyon.com) The low-down on
the worlds best canyons, with
a selection of 69 in Corsica.
ROCK CLIMBING (http://
escalade.corse.topo.free.fr) Reviews of
climbing routes, plus a forum.
VIA FERRATA (www.laviaferrata.
net) Has a few pages on Corsica.
SURFING (www.surfing-corsica.fr) All
about surfing, including weather
forecast and photo galleries.

CORSICAVENTURA (www.ernella.net) Trips on

Etang dUrbino and Tavignano river.
BONIF KAYAK (www.bonifacio-kayak.com) Around
les Lavezzi and Bonifacio.
SPORTSICA (%06 24 26 51 83) Excursions around
the Golfe de Pinarello.
SUD KAYAK (%06 14 11 68 82) Trips on the Baie
de Campomoro.
CLUB NAUTIQUE DLE ROUSSE (www.cnir.org)
Around le de la Pietra and its islets.
DELTA DU FANGU (www.delta-du-fangu.com)
Around the Delta du Fangu.

PARCS AVENTURE MADNESS

Fun and accessible to just about anybody, parcs aventure are very popular in Corsica.
Its an easy way to get a buzz the only training you need is a 10-minute lesson
and the whole family can take part at the same time. Youre still safe though, as the
parcs are supervised by qualified instructors. There are lots of dierent fixtures to
keep you excited, including zip lines that will make your heart skip a beat some of
them exceed 250m in length! Another draw is the scenery: parcs aventure are set up
in the most scenic parts of the island. See p212 for more information.
TOP Corsicas windy coastline is popular for windsurfing (p209) RIGHT Canyoning (p210)

the ultimate thrill-seeker activity

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23

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

AT SEA
With so much water surrounding Corsica, your vacation here is sure to be a dream.
Even if youve never dived, snorkelled, sailed, windsurfed or paddled, this is a great
place to try these activities: experienced outfitters employ qualified, English-speaking
instructors, and cater to all with aordable instruction, convenience and availability.
With water temperatures hovering around 24C in summer and an average of 2800
hours of sunshine each year, youre almost guaranteed the perfect weather for any
activity. The western and southern coastlines, especially in the water-sports hubs of
Porto, Sagone, Bonifacio, Porto-Vecchio and Propriano, deliver all the goods. To beat
the crowds, try kayaking its a great way to reach hidden coves and secluded beaches.

SCENIC ROADS
If your legs are twitching, there are kilometres of heart-stopping rides (or drives)
along ribbon-thin roads.

The D80, from Patrimonio to Pino (p48) In the Cap Corse

The D81B, from Calvi to Galria and Porto (p70) Fantastic views of the sea

The D268, from Solenzara to Col de Bavella (p166) Dramatic mountain road

The D69, from Aullne to Col de la Vaccia (p109)

The D330, from Cervione to San Nicolao (p156) Superb views of the coastal plain

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET

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24

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
TILL JACKET / PHOTOLIBRARY

FAMILY
TRAVEL
CORSICA

TOP BEACHES

DONT MISS EXPERIENCES

PLAGE DE PINARELLO Safe,

shallow and reassuring, with
numerous restaurants nearby
(p141).

Parcs aventure Swing Tarzan-style through

the trees at a baby parc (p141)

Donkey rides Feel like an explorer in the

maquis (p120)

Kayak excursions Paddle around the Golfe

de Pinarello in a tri-yak with Mum and Dad
(p141)

Introductory dives Kids aged eight and over

can take the plunge (p117)

Sailing Learn the ropes with a qualified instructor (p121)

Calche ride Clip-clop between beaches in a

horse-drawn carriage (p54)

PLAGE DE RONDINARA A
broad white-sand beach shielded from the winds (p133).
PLAGE DARONE Children
love this delightful crescent of
fine sand hire a pedal boat
for maximum eect (p96).
PLAGE DE PORTIGLIOLO
A vast expanse of silky sand,
with lots of activities available
for kids (p119).

TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN

Corsica is an excellent place to explore with kids: there are no major health concerns,
the climate is good and the food is easy to navigate (bar some pungent cheeses, perhaps!). Theres much to see and do to keep kids happy, from supervised beaches to
boat excursions and outdoor adventures. Most outdoor-activity outfits equestrian
centres, dive centres, parcs aventure, nautical centres etc have special gear, pricing
and activity options for kids. Except the very urban Bastia area, which lacks familyfriendly activities and accommodation, all regions are good bases for families. That
said, travelling with kids in Corsica does present a few minor problems; most notably,
long rides might bore the little ones. Keep this in mind when planning your itinerary.
TOP Kids of all ages will love Corsicas many parcs aventure (p212)

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 Lonely Planet
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

C O N T E N TS

25

CONTENTS
INTRODUCING CORSICA

LE ROUSSE (ISULA ROSSA)

72

72
72
74
75
75

FOOD & DRINK

16

Essential Information
Exploring le Rousse
Gastronomic Highlights
Recommended Shops
Transport

OUTDOORS

22

LA BALAGNE INTERIOR

75

FAMILY TRAVEL

24

THE AUTHORS

27

Inland from Calvi

Inland from le Rousse

76
78

THE WEST COAST

82

ITINERARIES

29

Transport

83

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

33

GETTING STARTED

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

10

CULTURE

12

GETTING STARTED

36

BASTIA

38

Essential Information
Orientation
Walking Tour
Exploring Bastia
Festivals & Events
Gastronomic Highlights
Recommended Shops
Transport

38
38
38
41
42
42
43
43

CAP CORSE

44

Eastern Cap Corse

Western Cap Corse
Inland Cap Corse

45
48
49

LE NEBBIO

50

St-Florent (San Fiurenzu)

Around St-Florent
Driving Tour

50
54
56

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

58

CALVI

59

Essential Information
Exploring Calvi

59
59

GETTING STARTED

62

Gastronomic Highlights
Nightlife
Recommended Shops
Transport

68
69
69
70

AROUND CALVI

70

GOLFE DE PORTO

83

Porto

83

GETTING STARTED

86

North of Porto
Inland from Porto
Les Calanques (Les Calanches)
Piana & Around

91
91
94
95

GOLFE DE SAGONE

97

Cargse (Carghjese)
Sagone (Saone)
Inland from Sagone

97
98
99

GOLFE DAJACCIO &

AROUND

100

Ajaccio (Ajacciu)
Around Ajaccio
Porticcio (Purtichju)
Driving Tours

100
106
106
107

THE SOUTH

111

GETTING STARTED

114

GOLFE DU VALINCO

116

Porto Pollo & Around

Propriano (Prupri)
Campomoro

116
119
122

LE SARTENAIS

124

Sartne (Sart)
Around Sartne
Tizzano & Around

124
126
127

LE SARTENAIS TO BONIFACIO

128

BONIFACIO (BUNIFAZIU) &

AROUND

129

26

C O N T E N TS

Exploring Bonifacio & Around

Gastronomic Highlights
Transport

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

129
133
134

PORTO-VECCHIO
(PORTI-VECCHJU)

134

Essential Information
Exploring Porto-Vecchio
Gastronomic Highlights
Nightlife
Recommended Shops
Transport

135
135
135
137
138
138

VALLE DE LA RESTONICA

177

Exploring Valle de la Restonica

Transport

178
179

VALLE DU NIOLO

179

Essential Information
Exploring Valle du Niolo
Gastronomic Highlights

179
179
181

LE BOZIU

181

Driving Tour

181

CORTE TO VIZZAVONA

183

BACKGROUND

185

AROUND PORTO-VECCHIO

138

South of Porto-Vecchio
North of Porto-Vecchio

138
141

HISTORY

186

ALL ABOUT CORSICA

200

LALTA ROCCA

143

OUTDOORS

206

LOspdale & Around

Zonza
Quenza & Around
Levie (Livia) & Around
Ste-Lucie de Tallano
(Santa Lucia di Tall)
Col & Aiguilles de Bavella

143
144
145
146

WALKING & THE GR20

214

147
148

THE EAST

150

FLORA & FAUNA OF CORSICA

220

A FRAGILE ENVIRONMENT

225

CORSICAN FLAVOURS

230

FOOD GLOSSARY

238

ACCOMMODATION

240

241
243
246
249
253
255

GETTING STARTED

154

Le Morianincu

157

Bastia & the Far North

Calvi & La Balagne
The West Coast
The South
The East
The Central Mountains

LA CASTAGNICCIA

159

Essential Information
Exploring La Castagniccia
Gastronomic Highlights
Transport

159
159
162
162

DIRECTORY

258

TRANSPORT

266

LANGUAGE

275

GLOSSARY

283

LA COSTA VERDE

151

Cervione

151

COSTA SERENA &

CTE DES NACRES

162

Ancient Alria & Around

Le Fiumorbu
Casamozza
Solenzara & Around

163
164
165
165

BEHIND THE SCENES

285

INDEX

290

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

168

MAP LEGEND

296

CORTE (CORTI)

169

Essential Information
Exploring Corte

169
169

GETTING STARTED

172

Gastronomic Highlights
Nightlife
Recommended Shops

175
177
177

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

27

THE AUTHORS
JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET
Coordinating Author, the South, the Central Mountains

Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard

has written extensively about Corsica. An incorrigible
foodie, he confesses a penchant for the robust Corsican cuisine nothing tastes better than charcuterie
enjoyed riverside in a remote valley. When not looking
for that perfect picnic spot, he tours the hinterland in
search of atmospheric B&Bs, burns o the calories by
meandering along hiking trails or diving the Med, and
attends the islands cultural festivals.

MILES RODDIS
Calvi & La Balagne, the West Coast

Miles lives beside the Mediterranean in Valencia, Spain.

Hes hiked the island of Mallorca for Lonely Planets
Walking in Spain, explored the island of Elba for the Italy
guide, and lazed on the beaches of Sardinia for sheer fun.
Hes authored more than 30 Lonely Planet titles, including France, Brittany & Normandy, Languedoc-Roussillon
and Walking in France. This is the second time hes married these two areas of interest by exploring Corsica
Mediterranean and French, yet not completely French.

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? Its simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated travellers. They dont take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so
you can be sure the advice youre given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popular
spots, and o the beaten track. They dont research using just the internet or phone.
They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They personally visit
thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak
with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only
a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it
is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.

28

T H E AU T H O R S

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

NEIL WILSON
Bastia & the Far North, the East

After working as a petroleum-industry geologist for

several years, Neil gave up the rock business to be a freelance writer and photographer. Since 1988 he has travelled in five continents and written around 55 guidebooks for various publishers. He has travelled extensively in France, visiting annually for the last 15 years,
and has worked on Lonely Planets France and Brittany
guidebooks. Born in Glasgow, Neil defected east at the
age of 18 and has lived in Edinburgh ever since.

ITINERARIES

THE NORTHS RICHES

FIVE DAYS // BASTIA TO PATRIMONIO // 130KM

From Bastia (p38) motor north to the Cap Corse. After visiting the little harbour at Erbalunga (p45), continue to Macinaggio (p46), from where you can take a boat trip past
the les Finocchiarola (p46). Next morning, hike along the Sentier des Douaniers (p46)
coastal trail as far as Barcaggio (p46). Back
Barcaggio
^
#
les
at
the wheel, forge west to Centuri (p48)
Finocchiarola
Sentier des Douaniers
#
and savour lobster at Auberge du Pcheur
Centuri ^
^
#
Macinaggio
(p48). Suitably re-energised, drive the spectacular D80 (p48) south to Nonza (p48),
where you can bed down at Casa Maria
CAP
CORSE
(p242). On day three, enjoy the sophisti^
#
D80

0
cated atmosphere of St-Florent (p50), then
spend the next day working your tan on
^
# Nonza
^
#
Erbalunga
idyllic
Plage du Loto (p54). The last day is
Plage
du Loto
all about epicurean indulgences drop into
^
#
Patrimonio
Patrimonio (p55) and discover the fine
^
#
^
# Bastia
^
# St-Florent
wines of Le Nebbio.
#

ITINERARIES

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

CORSICAS HEART & SOUL

ONE WEEK // CORTE TO VIZZAVONA // 240KM

lo

Corte (p169) is ideally positioned for exploring the valleys and microregions of central Corsica. Spend your first day taking in Cortes sights. The next day, set the alarm
early because youve got a big day in the
little-tramped Valle du Niolo (p179). The
Valle de la Restonica (p177) is the place
to go on day three. Keep your fourth day
for
the mysterious Boziu (p181) then, on
du # L E B O Z I U
Vall e no ^
Corte
na
your
fifth day, give the car a rest and picig
v
a
T
u
a
nic
ed
sto
nic
in
the trac-free Valle du Tavignano
ll
e
a
R
V
la
de
(
p175
).
On day six, drag yourself away
^
# Venaco
e
ll
Va
from Corte and make your way to Venaco
(p183) be sure to lunch at a A Cantina
di Matteu (p184). End the week with a day
of gentle walking amid the majestic Fort
de Vizzavona (p184).
Fort de
N
io

ITINERARIES

30

Vizzavona

WESTERN DELIGHTS
TWO WEEKS // CALVI TO AJACCIO // 450KM

Calvi (p59) and the hilltop villages of La Balagne (p75) are worth at least three days.
Then brace yourself for the hold-on-to-your-hat coastal drive south to Porto (p83), via
Galria (p71). Why not break the journey
with a hike to Girolata (p91), one of the
#
Calvi ^
jewels of this wild coastline? The Porto area
LA BALAGNE
has plenty to keep you busy for a good three
days. Next, move on to Ajaccio (p100) via
#
Galria ^
Cargse (p97) and Sagone (p98), allowing
^
#
Girolata
three days for Corsicas largest town and
^
# Porto
its gulf. Finally, duck inland and explore
the Haut Taravo (p109) and the Valle du
^
# Cargse
Prunelli (p107) you should plan on three
^
# Sagone
days to do them proper justice.
#

#
^
#

Ajaccio

u
ed
ll elli
Va run
P

H A U T TA R AV O

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

ITINERARIES

31

12 DAYS // PORTO-VECCHIO TO PROPRIANO // 280KM

Southern Corsica oers copious versions of the perfect beach. Porto-Vecchio (p134)
is a good place to start; plan on four days to make the most of the various options in
the area, including Plage de Palombaggia
^
#
(p139) and the Golfe de Pinarello (p141).
Journey on to Bonifacio (p129), which is
a great base for exploring the les Lavezzi
Porto
Pollo
^
#
(p132) and the Golfe de Sant Amanza
Golfe du ^
# Propriano
(p132) youll need three days, minimum.
Golfe de
Valinco
Pinarello
^
#
Spare a day for Tizzano (p127), where you
PortoCampomoro
#
Vecchio ^
can rent a boat and find your own pocket
^
#
^
#
Plage de
of sand. In Propriano (p119), allow anTizzano
Palombaggia
other four days for the fantastic Golfe du
Golfe de
Valinco be sure to squeeze in the charmSant' Amanza
ing seaside towns of Porto Pollo (p116)
^
#
Bonifacio
and Campomoro (p122).
les Lavezzi
#

LALTA ROCCA ESCAPE

FIVE DAYS // PORTO-VECCHIO TO LEVIE // 120KM

From Porto-Vecchio, take the twisting D368 to LOspdale (p143), the gateway to
LAlta Rocca. After soaking up the atmosphere of the Fort de LOspdale (p143),
head to Zonza (p144), which has accommodation options and restaurants. Spend the
next day canyoning (or just marvelling at
the
fabulous scenery) in the Bavella area
^
#Bavella
(p148) and recharge the batteries with a
Quenza
^
#
hearty dinner at Chez Pierrot (p145) near
^
# Zonza
Quenza. Next morning, explore the MonCapula &
Cucuruzzu
^
#
golian-like Plateau du Coscione (p145)
Fort de
^
#
L'Ospdale
before driving to Ste-Lucie de Tallano
Levie
^
#
Ste-Lucie
(p147). On your fourth day, mosey around
de Tallano
^
#
the village and shop for the perfect olive
L'Ospdale
oil. Keep your fifth day for Levie (p146)
and the Cucuruzzu & Capula archaeolog^
#
ical sites (p146). Be sure to pause for lunch
PortoVecchio
or dinner at A Pignata (p147) in Levie.
#

ITINERARIES

BEACHSIDE FROLICS

ITINERARIES

32

ITINERARIES

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

HILLTOP VILLAGES ORGY

ONE WEEK // BASTIA TO SOLENZARA // 260KM

Head due south from Bastia (p38), following the N198, before steering inland for a scenic drive around the hilltop villages of the Morianincu (p157). Follow the Corniche de
la Castagniccia (p156) to Cervione (p151),
where Casa Corsa Chambres dHtes
#
Bastia ^
Doumens (p253) provides a peaceful
nights sleep. Meander north through the
LE
Castagniccia, stopping at the atmosphereMORIANINCU
laden villages of La Porta (p160) and
La Porta
# ^
Morosaglia ^
#
LA
Morosaglia (p161); plan on spending two
C A S TA G N I C C I A
^
# Cervione
days here. Back on the coastal road, feast on
seafood at tang de Diane (p163) before
tang
exploring the Fiumorbu (p164) two days
de Diane
in this supremely picturesque microreLE
gion should fit the bill. Spend the next day
FIUMORBO
picnicking in the remote Valle du Travo
(p166), before lazing a couple of days away
Valle du Travo
^
# Solenzara
on the beach at Solenzara (p165).
#

BASTIA & THE FAR

NORTH

3 PERFECT DAYS
DAY 1 // TOUR OF CAP CORSE

Take a morning to explore the backstreets of Bastia (p38), making your way up to the
citadel for lunch on the terrace at A Casarella (p42) or Chez Vincent (p42). In the afternoon take a drive up the east coast of Cap Corse, pausing for a drink by the harbour
at Erbalunga (p45), then continue around the northern tip of the peninsula to keep
a date with an early seafood dinner in Centuri (p48). Afterwards, a sunset drive back
south along the spectacular D80 coast road (p48).
DAY 2 // VINEYARDS AND VILLAGES

Pick up a guide to the Route des Vins (Wine Road) in the St-Florent tourist oce and
spend a leisurely morning touring the vineyards of Patrimonio (p55). Linger over a
long lunch on the terrace at Osteria di San Martinu (p56), then head o on a driving
tour around the villages of the Nebbio (p56). In the evening, take advantage of your
new-found knowledge of Corsican wines to sample a range of crus in St-Florents welcoming Bara Vin (p52).
DAY 3 // BOAT TRIP TO THE BEACH

Wake up over coee and croissants at any of St-Florents harbourside cafes, then
board the Popeye boat for the half-hour trip along the coast of the Dsert des Agriates
to beautiful Plage du Loto (p54). Stake your claim to a patch of sand or, better still,
hike along the coast to the even more gorgeous Plage de Saleccia (p54). After a hard
day of sunbathing and swimming, relax with a gourmet seafood dinner overlooking
St-Florents harbour at La Gae (p52) or La Rascasse (p53).

p48

A boat trip and trek to a

beautifu beach

p54

Barcaggio

#
\

D253

St-Florent

Nonza

Macinaggio

23

33

36

Punta d
Canelle

#
\

D233

Luri

#
\

D180

D132

D32

Monte
Stello Commune
$
de Brando

" Tour de
;
Sacro

de Sisco

# Marine
\

71

52
19

p46

Hike this rugged coasta trai , which

runs between Macinaggio and Centuri

SENTIER DES DOUANIERS

Marine de
# Pietracorbara
\
b
"
Tour
de
Commune
Castellare
de Sisco

D232

" Tour de
;
l Osse

#
\

Marine de
Santa Severa

D80

Commune
de Pietracorbara

Cap
Corse

0
# Nonza
\

D35

Col de
Santa Lucia

#
\

Commune
de Canari
# Pieve
\

0
D80

#
\

Pino

Serra

60

40

18

0
!

10 km
6 miles

B A S T I A & T H E FA R N O R T H

PLAGE DE SALECCIA

D153

Tollare

C imb to the top of Nonzas tower

for bri iant coasta views

NONZA

#
\

Commune
0
0
Col de la

Capo
Grosso

le de la
Giraglia

les
de Rogliano
Finocchiarola
Ersa
Botticella
Sentier des Douaniers
#
Centuri \
#
\
Orche
# Macinaggio
D80 \
D35
#
Rogliano \
D353
Commune de
Morsiglia
Ligurian Sea

Savour seafood in a harbourside

restaurant

55

Centuri

sti
Ba

p48

i
nt
Ce

CENTURI

DISTANCE CHART (KM)

gi
ag

Note: Distances between

destinations are approximate

0
0

ur
ac
in
M

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

nz
No

34
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

riconi
Ost

Lama

Le Nebbio

#
\

Casta

D62

D81

#
Vallecalle \

Murato#
\
Bevinco

D5

Le

D82

Col de Santu
Stefanu

#
]

D81

#
\

#
\

#
\

D82

cn
Lan
l de D62
Dfi

#
\ Oletta

D81

N193

#
\ Ortale

#
\ Casatorra

1 Bastia
"
Poretta

tang de
Biguglia

p38

p55

Tour the vineyards of Corsica's

finest wine-growing region

PATRIMONIO

Take time to exp ore this buzzing

harbour city

BASTIA

Tyrrhenian
Sea

# Bastia
]

di Pigno

#
\

$ Sierra

Col de
Teghime

Poggio
d'Oletta

D38

0Patrimonio

Brietta
Plage de 3
" St-Florent
la Roya

0
0

Pub ic transport is usefu on y for the BastiaSt-F orent route; a car is better for making the most
of the region. The D80 road a ong the west coast of Cap Corse is one of the most scenic on the
is and, but distances are deceptive it's on y 36km (one hour) from Bastia to Macinaggio a ong
the east side of Cap Corse, but the tortuous hairpins of the D80 mean the equiva ent journey in
the west, from St-F orent to Centuri, is 60km (two hours).

GETTING AROUND

Sip cocktai s beside the superyachts

on the quai d'Honneur

p50

Col de
Vezzu

Agriates

io
Pogg

ST-FLORENT

Ostriconi

Plage de
l'Ostriconi

des
Dsert

#
\

L'Aliso

Ghignu

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

Plage de
Saleccia
3
" 3
" Plage
du Loto
#
\
Saleccia tang
de Loto

#
\ Erbalunga

D80
3 Commune
Marine "
\
Lavasina #
de Farinole
de Negru
#
Santa \
D80
D31 \
# Miomo
Maria
di Lota #
\
Marine de 3
"
San Martino
Farinole
di Lota
D33
Golfe de
Ville di D31
Pietrabugno
St-Florent

Commune de Amenta
di Capu Corsu
#
Pozzo \

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
B A S T I A & T H E FA R N O R T H
35

36

B A S T I A & T H E FA R N O R T H G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

GETTING STARTED

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

Although the Cap Corse peninsula is only 40km long,

the narrow road that runs around its coast crams in
120km of switchback curves and stunning scenery thatll
have you stopping at every other lay-by to whip out your
camera. Even a whistle-stop tour of its picturesque fishing villages and seductive beaches would fill an entire
day allow at least two days if you want to relax and enjoy the trip. Bustling Bastia is worth a day, while the hedonistic delights of St-Florent and the vineyards of Patrimonio could tempt you to spend an entire week there.
TOP EXCURSIONS
SENTIER DU LITTORAL

Take a boat trip to Plage du Loto and explore the rocky coastal footpath that leads to
Plage de Saleccia, one of Corsicas finest beaches (p54).
THE COAST ROAD

Drive along the spectacular D80 road that clings improbably to steep mountainsides
high above the western coast of Cap Corse, with breathtaking views revealed at every
bend (p48).
ROUTE DES VINS

Improve your knowledge of Corsican wines by making a tour of the Patrimonio vineyards, home to some of the islands finest muscat vintages (p55).
SENTIER DES DOUANIERS

Hike or horseback-ride along this ancient coastal trail, once used by customs ocers,
to discover remote white-sand beaches and ruined Genoese towers (p46).
SAN PAULU BOAT TRIP

Take a cruise around the northern tip of Cap Corse aboard the San Paulu, past the
seabird breeding ground of the les Finocchiarola to lovely Barcaggio beach (p46).
LE TOUR DE SNQUE

Climb to an ancient hilltop tower perched atop Cap Corses central ridge, and be rewarded with breathtaking panoramas of sea and mountains (p50).

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

B A S T I A & T H E FA R N O R T H G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

GETTING AWAY
FROM IT ALL

TOP SEAFOOD
RESTAURANTS

Bastia, Nonza and St-Florent are where the

crowds gather, so its not too dicult to find
a secluded corner elsewhere in the region.

LA RASCASSE

Remote beaches Pack a picnic and a

parasol, and hike along the Sentier des
Douaniers or the Sentier du Littoral to
find a sunbathing spot all of your own
(p46, p54)

Inland Cap Corse Pause to enjoy the

Jardins Traditionnels du Cap Corse and
the peaceful hamlets along the D180
road, which cuts across the centre of Cap
Corse (p49)

Nebbio driving tour Explore the winding back roads and remote villages of
inland Nebbio (p56)

ADVANCE PLANNING

Cutting-edge cuisine (p53)

LE PIRATE

Cap Corses top table (p47)

LA GAFFE

A local favourite for 30 years (p52)

LA MARINUCCIA

Sunset views while you eat (p53)

AUBERGE DU PCHEUR

Dining by the harbours edge (p48)

LA TABLE DU MARCH

Fresh produce from the local market

(p42)

RESOURCES

There are some events you might want to

consider while planning the timing of your
trip.

Bastia Tourist Office (www.bastia

-tourisme.com) Information, maps, bro-

A Cerca Traditional procession that

Cap Corse (www.destination-cap-corse.com)

chures and listings

Useful guide to Cap Corses villages and
walking trails

dates back to ancient times; it takes

place on Good Friday (p45)

Nuits de la Guitare (www.festival-guitare

-patrimonio.com) An eclectic week-long

St-Florent and Patrimonio vineyards

guitar-music festival held in July (p56)

Fiera di u Vinu (www.acunfraternita.com,

in French) A celebration of Corsican wines
held on the first or second weekend of
July (p50)

Festival dErbalunga (www.festival

-erbalunga.fr) Open-air concerts in Erbalungas village square; it takes place in
August (p45)

St-Florent Tourist Office (www.corsica

-saintflorent.com, in French) Information on

Haute-Corse (Charles Pujos) Excellent

guide to hiking routes in Haute-Corse,
complete with maps and photos (in
French, but easy to understand)

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

37

38

BASTIA

BASTIA

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04 95

54 20 40; www.bastia-tourisme.com; place St-Nicolas;

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

h8am-8pm Apr-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat

pop 38,000
Most visitors drive off the teeming ferries from mainland Europe, then head
straight out of town for Cap Corse or
the beaches around St-Florent. But
Bastia warrants more than a fleeting
glance. Economically Corsicas most
dynamic city, it has a rough-roundthe-edges appeal that accepts but
doesnt pander to tourism. Linger a
little and you wont be disappointed.
The city of Bastia was ocially founded in 1372, although there were settlements in the area as far back as Roman
times. The Genoese governor of the time,
residing in the poorly defended Chteau
de Biguglia in a malaria-infested area
several kilometres away, understandably
decided to go upmarket and build himself
a fortress (bastiglia, hence the name Bastia) on the only really significant rocky
headland on this stretch of coastline. This
fortress Bastias citadel was a strategically important element in protecting the
island from seaborne incursions.
But not everyone saw things that way.
Many freedom-minded Corsicans saw the
fortress as the prime symbol of Genoese
oppression. Indeed, on several occasions
villagers came down from the mountains
and sacked the town in protest over Genoese taxes. But despite the periodic instability, Bastia would continue to expand.

ESSENTIAL
INFORMATION
EMERGENCIES // Hospital (%04 95 59 11 11;

Furiani; h24hr) Bus 1, which leaves from opposite the

bus station on bd Gnral Graziani, terminates at the
hospital. Police station (%04 95 54 50 22; rue du
Commandant Luce de Casabianca; h24hr)

Oct-Mar).

ORIENTATION
Place St-Nicolas, a long, trac-free
rectangle directly opposite the southern
ferry terminal, is the heart of Bastia. At
the squares northern end, av Marchal
Sbastiani links the southern ferry terminal with the train station. West of the
square, parallel bd Paoli and rue Csar
Campinchi, each running northsouth,
are the main shopping streets.

WALKING TOUR
Map: p40
Distance: 2.75km
Duration: one to 1 hours
From the tourist oce (1; above) on
place St-Nicolas, walk south past the
statue of Napolon (2; p42). With their
steep interior stairs visible from the street,
the tall 17th- and 18th-century buildings
flanking the square on its southern and
western sides could have been transplanted from any provincial Italian city.
From the main square, cours Henri
Pierangeli runs into Terra Vecchia,
Bastias oldest quarter; during Genoese
rule, Terra Vecchia was occupied by
native Corsicans, while the Genoese
looked down upon them from Terra
Nova. The central square, Place de
lHtel de Ville (3), is home to the
former town-hall building (now used
primarily for weddings); theres a small
produce market here in the morning,
Tuesday to Friday, and a much larger
one on Saturday and Sunday. In the
southwest corner is the 17th-century
ochre-coloured glise St-Jean Baptiste
(h8am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Sun),

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BASTIA

0
0

BASTIA

D81

Rd
e l'Imp
Eugratrice
Am E
mile S
nie
ari

25

V
"

and

ACCOMMODATION i
Htel Les Voyageurs..................... 20 B3

gelli

Vieux Port
du

66
Su
d

0
N193

See Inset

Pl
d'Armes

Zph
yrs
Q des Martyrs de la Lib i on
ra t

R des

100 m
0.05 miles

0
N193

Pl du @ @
" 10
Donjon "
9
Citadel &
f 15 Terra Nova
"
l'vch
e
Rd
am

C ar

@
"
13

eD
otr

l
nra
G

Alle
du 17
3me
R.I.M

nral
de Ga
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@
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12 e
rin #
"
V3

66
66
0
0

Jardin
Romieu

RN

R
c cia R d F onta i ne Ne u v e
es T
err asses
R de la Ma

V
"

11
@
" R St-Jean

bu

val
ell

R Fa

f
"
17

i
ol
Pa

Pl de
l'Htel
de Ville

PARKING V
Parking.............................................. 33 C4
Parking.............................................. 34 C4

x Port
Vieu

f
" 19

Bassin
St-Nicolas

Tunnel U n d er the

Palaise
de Justice

Terra
Vecchia

eral Giraud)

" 33
V

Cours H
enri Pie
ran

n
G

Bd

R Nap
olon

(Bd
R Salva
tor Via
le

Monte Ste-Claire

B d G

li

Bd Pa
o

R Cs
ar Ca
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pinch
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ois
R St-Fran

R Mio
t

7
Q
"

34

ra
acinthe d e M onte
Hy

18
f
"

4
Bd

"
V

Pl StNicolas

6#

TRANSPORT
Autocars Cortenais ....................... 21 A3
Beaux Voyages............................ (see 21)
Bus 1 Stop ........................................ 22 B3
Bus Station....................................... 23 B3
Buses to the Airport...................... 24 A3
Corsica Ferries Office.................... 25 C2
Eurocorse ...................................... (see 23)
La Mridionale Ferries Office..... 26 C2
Moby Lines Office ......................... 27 C3
Northern Ferry Terminal ............. 28 C2
Rapides Bleus.................................. 29 B3
Southern Ferry Terminal............. 30 C3
Train Station.................................... 31 A3
Transports Micheli ........................ 32 C3
Transports Santini...................... (see 23)
Transports Saoletti..................... (see 23)

R du Colle

Q
f
" 16 "
8

R du Conventionne
Salicetti

"
14 f

Commercial
Port

# 27

Rd

R du

Com
m

R Notre Dame
de Lourdes

Z
#
1

rt
Sq
u Po
vea
Marchal
23
Nou
u
Leclerc Av M
d
"
7
R
`
#
arch
"
" 22
7
21 7
a
Htel de
" l Sbastiani
i
Sq
D
"
RG
Ville
"
7
St-Victor
ab
20 29
30
rie
r Train
31 "
H 7
2#
" 4
Station
lP
r
32 #
i

relli

D
" 28

ant
Luce
de C
asab
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a
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0
!

ral G
razian
i

R Cs
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i
Bd G
nral
Grazia
ni

ZuAcvcJea an 7" 24
0

Toga
Marina

26

Bd G
n

Prfecture

200 m
0.1 miles

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

66
66
2

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS @
A Casarella .......................................... 9 D6
Chez Vincent................................... 10 D6
La Table du March ...................... 11 B5
Le Bouchon ..................................... 12 B6
U Tianu.............................................. 13 B6

A
C
B
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
RECOMMENDED SHOPS f
V
Police Station..................................... 1 C2 A Campagna.................................... 14"
B4
Tourist Office ..................................... 2 B3 A Cava................................................ 15 D6
Cap Corse Mattei ........................... 16 B4
w17 B5
EXPLORING BASTIA
Santa Catalina.................................
Caf Wha!............................................ 3 B6 U Muntagnolu ................................ 18 A4
Casabianca Submarine................... 4 C3 U Paese.............................................. 19 B5
Chez Huguette.................................. 5 B6
Palais des Glaces............................... 6 B4
Statue of Napolon.......................... 7 B4
War Memorial .................................... 8 B4

39

To Hospital
(1.5km);
w
Bastia Poretta
Airport (25km)

40

BASTIA

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Corsicas largest church, notable for

its twin bell towers and tall classical
facade.
From the church, cross rue St-Jean
and go down the steps that lead to the
Vieux Port (4; p42). When Bastia grew
into a major port, a new commercial

BASTIA WALKING TOUR

~#
&

100 m
0.05 miles

173m
e R.I.M

Bd G
nral
de Gau
ll

li

Alle
du

Bd Pa
o

Bassin
St-Nicolas

olon

C
ours Henri

#
12

w yrs de la Libration
art

R Nap

Pieran
gelli

R Cs
ar Ca
m

pinch
i

#
2

Terra
Vecchia

'
Rd
es T
errasses
R de la M

Commercial
Port

sM
de

#
3

ne R St-Jean
ari
#
4

Rue Rig
o

Ligurian
Sea

Vazz

i
an

0
!

Pl StNicolas

R Mio
t

ConveRn du
ti
Salicettonnel
i

Vieux Port
du
S

ud

66

#
6

#
7

Pl Dominique
Vincetti

Vazzani

Pl d'Armes

#
10

#
8

#
11

Jete du
Dragon

Citadel &
Terra Nova
vch
R de l'

#
9

R du Colle

#
5

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

0
0

Sq St-Victor

harbour was built to the northeast, leaving this sunny strip to pleasure boats,
restaurants and cafes.
Hugging the curve of the port, quai du
Sud leads to the staircase of rampe StCharles, which climbs to Jardin Romieu
(5), a pleasant little garden that seems
to cling to the hillside for dear life. At its
extremity take the flight of steep stone
steps that lead through the citadels battlements via a tunnel and up to rue StMichel, where you turn right into place
du Donjon (6).
Looming over this cobbled square is
the Palais des Gouverneurs (7; Governors Palace), a Genosese citadel built
in 1530. It was the seat of the Genoese
governor of Corsica for more than two
centuries; during that time, the Terra
Nova quarter, which has recently had
many of its buildings refurbished in attractive ochres, reds, yellows and greens,
grew up around it. Closed to the public
since 1980, the Palais des Gouverneurs
will soon be the home of the new Muse
dEthnographie Corse; at the time of
research the museum was due to open in
summer 2010.
From the square, head southeast
along narrow rue Notre Dame to reach
the late-15th-century Cathdrale SteMarie (8). Inside, drop a 0.20 coin into
the box to illuminate the glass-encased
silver Virgin Mary. Admire, too, the
churchs Italian organ, one of the finest on the island, and the finely painted
trompe lil ceiling. Skirting the side
of the church, you come to the rococo
Oratoire Ste-Croix (9). In one of its side
chapels theres a much-venerated blackoak crucifix, reputedly hauled from the
sea by fishermen in the 14th century.
Above the altar, an unusual sculpture
depicting God the Father looks down
benevolently.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

EXPLORING BASTIA
PLACE ST-NICOLAS //
PEOPLE-WATCH IN BASTIAS
BUZZING FOCAL POINT

This vast square, nearly 300m long and

one of Frances largest, overlooks the
commercial harbour. Shaded by palms
and viciously pollarded plane trees, its
bordered by a string of attractive terrace
cafes along its western edge. At night
rollerbladers race and twirl, taking advantage of this trac-free space. Theres

41

ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation options in this region
range from city hotels in Bastia and seafront chambres dhtes (B&Bs) on the Cap
Corse coast to rural B&Bs tucked away in
the Patrimonio vineyards; read all about
them in the Accommodation chapter.
The following are some of our favourites:

Live it up in style at the boutique

Htel Demeure Castel Brando
(p242)

Enjoying an idyllic setting among the

vines, Chambres dHtes U Castellu
Piattu (p243) is the perfect rural
escape

A beautiful farmhouse conversion, La

Dimora (p243) exemplifies the best in
Corsican hospitality

a lively flea market on Sunday mornings

and throughout summer its enlivened
by free concerts. On 14 July fireworks
spurt and crack overhead to mark
Bastille Day.
The prime people-watching spot on
the west side of the square is the Palais
des Glaces (%04 95 31 05 01; place St-Nicolas;
mains 10-15; h7am-2am), a classic cafe with
a marble-floored, wood-panelled dining
room and attractive terrace tables where
you can pick lazily at an ice cream while
watching the world go by.
At the squares northern end is Bastias War Memorial, a striking bronze
statue of a mother giving her youngest
son to the motherland; its a bombastic
theme thats been executed with great
sensitivity. Even more evocative for Corsicans is the black conning tower of the
Casabianca submarine. Its preserved in
honour of the captain, Jean LHerminier,
and his crew who, in the months leading
up to the recapture of the island from

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

Drop down a flight of steps and turn

left into chemin des Turquines, then left
again up the steps of rue de Lvch and
right into rue de la Paroisse. A Cava (10;
6 chemin des Turquines) sells traditional Corsican products; try the owners favourite
house liqueur, a 40% eau-de-vie infused
with local maquis herbs.
Rue de la Paroisse brings you back to
place du Donjon, where you can stop for
a drink on the terrace of Chez Vincent
(11; p42). The views over the Old Port
from Chez Vincent and its neighbouring terraces are stunning, and especially
beautiful at dusk. Exit the citadel and
follow rue du Colle northwards, skirting
the Vieux Port to join rue des Terrasses,
which has several worthwhile craft
shops.
Ahead on the right is the imposing
facade of the Oratoire de lImmacule
Conception (12), with its rich wooden
panelling and elaborately painted barrel-vaulted ceiling; it briefly served as
the seat of the Anglo-Corsican parliament in 1795. Its throne was meant for
King George III, and God Save The King
was played on the organ at the opening and closing of each session. Head
outside; place St-Nicolas is again back
in sight.

BASTIA

42

BASTIA

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

Axis forces in 1943, landed agents, arms,

radios and supplies in support of the
Corsican resistance.
The square also boasts a marble statue
of Napolon, his naked torso draped in a
camp Roman emperors tunic as he peers
out to sea towards Elba, the place of his
first exile.
VIEUX PORT // SIP A COLD ONE
BY THE HARBOUR

The most picturesque part of town, Bastias old port is a crowded harbour ringed
by towering 19th-century tenements,
some with visibly crumbling walls the
buildings nearest the harbour took a battering during WWII bombing missions
designed to drive out Axis occupiers.
The lively waterfront is ringed with
tempting terrace restaurants and bars,
the ideal spot for an evening refreshment Mexican-themed Caf Wha!
(%04 95 34 25 79; Vieux Port; h10am-2am) is
popular with young locals and serves
cocktails till 2am, or you could order a
bottle of white and half-a-dozen oysters
at Chez Huguette (%04 95 31 37 60; Vieux
Port; mains 18-32, oysters per half-dozen 12-14;
hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat year-round, plus dinner Sun
Jul & Aug), whose pavement tables com-

mand the best views.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

See p10 for more festivals and events occurring in Bastia.
Processions de la Semaine Sainte Holy
Week is celebrated fervently with colourful processions;
they take place in late March or early April.
Feux de la St-Jean A giant bonfire in the Vieux
Port celebrates the years longest day (23 June) and
honours Bastias patron saint.
Festival Arte-Mare A celebration of
Mediterranean cinema and cultures for 10 days in
mid-November.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS
A CASARELLA
%04 95 32 02 32; rue St-Michel; mains 10-23, menus
18-28; hlunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat

Set in the heart of the citadel with a

small terrace overlooking the Vieux Port,
A Casarella has an interior tastefully
decorated with contemporary artefacts
and canvases. The innovative cuisine
is based on organic Corsican produce,
and includes dishes such as millefeuille
of swordfish with aubergine and mint,
fillet of veal stued with herbs from the
maquis, and casciate (fresh cheese baked
in chestnut leaves). Reservations are
recommended.
CHEZ VINCENT
%04 95 31 62 50; 12 rue St-Michel; mains 11-24;
hlunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat

A Casarellas neighbour also has an attractive terrace with great views, and is
a friendly, informal spot where you can
snack on pizzas (8 to 10) or select from
the dishes chalked up on the blackboard.
Go wild and opt for the assiette du bandit
Corse (Corsican bandit platter; 18.50),
a selection of island favourites including
stewed veal with chestnuts, ewes-milk
cheese with fig preserve, wild-boar pt,
and roast figatellu (liver sausage).
LA TABLE DU MARCH
%04 95 31 64 25; place de lHtel de Ville; mains
20-26, menus 25-49; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat Jul
& Aug, lunch & dinner Wed-Sat Sep-Jun

Tucked away on a peaceful square near

the Vieux Port, this smart and elegant
brasserie makes full use of the produce
market held on the square six mornings
a week. It specialises in local seafood
classic dishes include shellfish platters, fried monkfish with tartare sauce,

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

and grilled sea bass with asparagus and

Champagne sauce but theres also a
delicious vegetarian ravioli stued with
ricotta and white true, and topped with
a creamy cep-and-rocket sauce.
LE BOUCHON
%04 95 58 14 22; 4bis rue St-Jean; mains 12-25;
hlunch & dinner Jul & Aug, lunch & dinner Mon, Tue,
Thu-Sat Sep-Jun

43

various local specialities such as fig jam,

olive oil and fruit liqueurs.
There are several other tempting shops
selling quality Corsican products such
as charcuterie, cheese, honey, wine and
liqueur. The following are some of our
favourites:
A Campagna (%04 95 34 00 78; 25 rue Csar
Campinchi)

A Cava (6 chemin des Turquines)

Santa Catalina (%04 95 32 30 69; 8 rue des
Terrasses)

U Muntagnolu (%04 95 32 78 04; 15 rue Csar

Campinchi)

U Paese (%04 95 32 33 18; 4 rue Napolon)

TRANSPORT
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
AIRPORT // Bastia Poretta airport (BIA;

U TIANU
%04 95 31 36 67; 4 rue Rigo; menu 20; h7pm-1am

Mon-Sat Sep-Jul

A local favourite that has hardly changed

in a quarter of a century, this informal,
family-run place is tucked away down a
side street and up a flight of rickety stairs
behind the Vieux Port. Youll stagger out
after indulging in its superb-value fivecourse menu (set menu) of traditional
Corsican favourites, which also includes
an aperitif, coee and a digestif.

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
CAP CORSE MATTEI
%04 95 32 44 38; 15 bd Gnral de Gaulle

A Bastia institution. The interior of this

gloriously retro shop, which has an art
deco facade, has hardly changed since
the day Louis-Napolon Mattei first
opened for business in 1872. During
more than a century of service it has
continued to sell not only its celebrated
brand-name Cap Corse aperitif, but also

%04 95 54 54 54; www.bastia.aeroport.fr) is 24km

south of central Bastia; see p266 for more.
BUS // The bus to Bastia Poretta airport (8.50, 30
minutes, 10 daily) leaves from in front of the Prfecture
building, beside sq Marchal Leclerc. The tourist oce
has schedules, and timetables are also posted at the
bus stop.
TAXI // Airport taxis (%04 95 36 04 05) cost
around 40/55 during the day/night.

GETTING AROUND
BOAT // Bastia has two ferry terminals. The northern

one has showers, toilets and an information point (open

7am to 9pm). The main, southern terminal has a ticket
oce for same-day and advance travel for Socit
Nationale Corse Mditerrane (SNCM), La Mridionale,
Corsica Ferries and Moby Lines. Ferry services head
to/from Marseille and Nice on mainland France, and
Livorno, Savona, Piombino and Genoa in Italy; see p268
for more. Corsica Ferries, Moby Lines and Le Mridionale
also have oces around town (see Map p39).
BUS // The bus station (a grand term for a little parking
area with no ticket oce) is just north of place St-Nicolas;
Transports Santini (%04 95 37 04 01) buses

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

This quayside restaurant-cum-wine-bar

is a great spot for watching the evening
promenade along the Vieux Port. The
menu is full of tempting dishes such as
rich soupe de poisson (fish soup), tartare
of organic Corsican beef, and grilled
tuna with tagliatelle, and theres a good
selection of wines by the glass (3 to 6).
Service is aable, if on the slow side.

BASTIA

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

44

CAP CORSE

leave from the bus station for St-Florent (twice daily).

Autocars Cortenais (%04 95 46 02 12) buses
leave from the train station for Corte (three weekly),
while Beaux Voyages (%04 95 65 15 02; www
.lesbeauxvoyagesencorse.com, in French) buses leave
from the same location for Calvi (once or twice daily).
Eurocorse (%04 95 21 06 31) leaves from route du
Nouveau Port for Ajaccio (twice daily), and Rapides
Bleus (%04 95 31 03 79) buses leave from in front of
the post oce for Porto-Vecchio (once daily).
CAR // Bastia is a real trac bottleneck, so try to avoid
driving into the town centre during rush hour, and leave
plenty of time to check in for ferry departures the last
few miles into town can take half an hour or more during
busy times.
PARKING // On-street parking can be a problem in the
town centre, though you can usually find a space in the
dark and cramped underground car park beneath place
St-Nicolas.
TAXI // Taxis Oranges Bastiais (%04 95 32
24 24) and Taxis Bleus (%04 95 32 70 70) provide
taxi services.
TRAIN // The train station (%04 95 32 80 61) is
at the western end of av Marchal Sbastiani, beside sq
Marchal Leclerc. There are several trains daily to Ajaccio
(four hours) and Corte (two hours), and two daily to Calvi
(three hours) via le Rousse (2 hours); the latter two
destinations require a change at Ponte Leccia.

CAP CORSE
The maquis-covered Cap Corse peninsula, 40km long and around 10km
wide, stands out from the rest of
Corsica, flicking a giant geographical finger at the French Riviera. A
wild and rugged region, its often
described as an island within an
island.
This northern tip of Corsica, the nearest to mainland Europe, was an important
centre for merchants and trading. For
many years the peninsula was ruled by im-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

portant noble families from Genoa, who

prospered from trading wine and oil, and
regarded Cap Corse as an ally. It has a long
maritime tradition and was, apart from
Bonifacio, the only area within Corsica
whose people made a living from fishing.
Indeed, the inhabitants of Cap Corse
were the first islanders to broaden their
horizons overseas, emigrating to the
French colonies in North Africa and the
Americas. Once they had made their
fortune, however, many returned home,
with the most successful commissioning
a colonial-style house, known as a maison
des amricains (see the boxed text, p47).
Today, punctuated by watchtowers
built by the Genoese, the cape is dotted
with charming coastal fishing villages
and small communities perched precariously up in the hills.
The west coast, with wilder scenery
and narrow switchback roads, contrasts
with the gentler eastern coastal strip.
Its possible to dash around the capes
perimeter in one day of driving, but its
better to make trips radiating out from
Bastia or St-Florent over two or more
days.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Macinaggio Tourist
Oce (%04 95 35 40 34; www.ot-rogliano

-macinaggio.com, in French; port de plaisance de Macinaggio; h9am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon
Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) The
only tourist oce on Cap Corse.

TRANSPORT
CAR // The D80 snakes its way all around Cap Corse, in
the main clinging close to the spectacular coastline. Allow plenty of extra time; progress, especially on the west
coast, will be slow as you negotiate the tight bends and
pass oncoming trac warily the 60km from St-Florent
to Centuri will take at least 1 hours.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BUS // Transports Micheli (%04 95 35 14 64)

runs from the Bastia tourist oce to Erbalunga and Macinaggio (three daily Monday to Friday, one Saturday),
while Transports Saoletti (%04 95 37 84 23)
has a service every Wednesday from the bus station to
Nonza and Patrimonio.

EASTERN CAP CORSE

LA CORNICHE // DRIVING HIGH

ABOVE CITY AND SEA

This spectacular road, which begins in

central Bastia at the north end of rue
Csar Campinchi, makes a wonderful drive thats easily accomplished in
a couple of hours. The D31 snakes its
way around the steep mountain slopes
looming to the north of the city where
youll be tempted to pause and explore
the little villages of Ville di Pietrabugno,
San Martino di Lota and Santa Maria di
Lota before dropping to Miomo and,
once more, the coast. Again and again,
youll enjoy stunning views of the shore
and, far out to sea, the islands of the Tuscan archipelago.
Consider stopping in the peaceful hamlet
of San Martino di Lota, 6km from Bastia,
to enjoy lunch at the Htel-Restaurant
La Corniche (%04 95 31 40 98; www.hotel-la
corniche.com; mains 12-24; hlunch & dinner FebDec). Its gourmet restaurant has a mag-

nificent panoramic terrace and is strong

on local produce; the slow-roasted lamb
with wild thyme is superb.
ERBALUNGA // EXPLORE AN
ANCIENT FISHING VILLAGE

It would be a shame not to make a brief

stop to visit Erbalungas little harbour,
one of the capes prettiest. Its dicult to
imagine the time when the port, where
today only a handful of boats bob along-

45

side a crumbling Genoese tower, was a

thriving entrept. Then more important
than either Ajaccio or Bastia, the port
exported wine and olive oil to Genoa.
Leave your car in the free car park beside Htel Demeure Castel Brando and
wander down to the tiny village square
and quayside, which has a cluster of cute
cafes and restaurants. Narrow alleys lead
through shady courtyards to the tower,
home to an informal art gallery in summer. In the 1930s and 40s the village became an artists colony it was nicknamed
the Collioure du Cap after the famous art
colony in southwest France and many
artists are still based here today.
Each August, the Festival dErbalunga
(%04 95 33 20 84; www.festival-erbalunga.fr) promotes open-air concerts in the villages
central square.
Delightfully placed on Erbalungas
small, shady square, with the harbour just
in view, A Piazzetta (%04 95 33 28 69; pizzas
around 8, mains 12-16; hlunch & dinner) oers
pizzas and a regularly changing menu,
with most choices pulled from the sea.
For something special head for Le Pirate
(p47).
A CERCA // AN ANCIENT
PROCESSION FROM ERBALUNGA

On Good Friday, the people of Erbalunga,

Pozzo and a couple of nearby hamlets take
part in A Cerca (literally the Search), a
procession said to reflect an ancient fertility rite that goes back to pagan times. At
dawn, men, women and children set out
from their villages on a 14km circular
pilgrimage walk along the paths that link
their communities. Each procession is
often within sight of the other three, yet
they never intersect or overlap.
Once back in the village, Erbalungas
pilgrims wind into a spiral, called the
Granitola (Snail), that gradually unfolds

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

EXPLORING EASTERN CAP

CORSE

CAP CORSE

46

CAP CORSE

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

GENOESE TOWERS
Around 60 of the 85 towers that the Genoese built in Corsica in the 16th century remain
standing today in various states of preservation. Mostly round but occasionally square,
these fortified structures are about 15m high and are particularly common around Cap
Corse.
The avowed motive for constructing the towers was to protect the island from
Berber raiders, but you cant help thinking that in building them Genoa also sought
to protect its strategic and commercial interests in Corsica from European challengers.
Sited around the coastline so that each was visible from the next, the towers formed
a vast surveillance network. A system of signals enabled a message to circle the island
in one hour.
There are several fine examples of these structures around Cap Corse, including the
Tour de lOsse (south of Porticciolo), and those at Erbalunga (p45), Marine dAlbo, and
along the Sentier des Douaniers (below).

as the participants continue on their way,

while another element of the procession
forms itself into the four arms of the
cross.
SAN PAULU BOAT TRIPS //
BIRDWATCH, SUNBATHE AND
HIKE THE COAST

The hub of the eastern cape, Macinaggio

has a pleasant little harbour that oers
the islands best moorings; everything
from small sailing boats to sleek luxury
yachts are berthed here. With a range of
activities, the town makes a good base
for exploring the northern reaches of the
promontory.
In July and August the San Paulu
(%04 95 35 07 09; www.sanpaulu.com; port de
plaisance), which docks opposite the Maci-

naggio tourist oce, cruises along the

stunning coastline to Barcaggio and
back (round trip adult/child 22/11,
two hours). The return trip takes a turn
around the nature reserve of the les
Finocchiarola, an important breeding
site for seabirds take your binoculars.
Sailings are at 11am and 3.30pm from
Macinaggio, leaving Barcaggio at noon
and 4.30pm.

If you prefer sunbathing to birdwatching, you can take the morning boat and
spend the afternoon at Barcaggios remote and beautiful white-sand beach, returning on the 4.30pm boat (round trip
adult/child 24/12). The boat can also be
used to allow a one-way hike along the
Sentier des Douaniers coastal trail from
Macinaggio to Barcaggio (see below).
SENTIER DES DOUANIERS //
EXPLORE THE RUGGED CAP
CORSE COAST

Hikers will love the Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Ocers Trail), a rugged
coastal path that leads away from the
beach at Macinaggio and, winding its
way through fragrant maquis, hugs the
protected shoreline. Views are spectacular, with various sections grazing the
coastline, looking out to the les Finocchiarola, and passing the Genoese Tour
de Santa Maria and Tour dAgnello.
The trail leads on to Barcaggio; for this
first stage, allow up to three hours. From
here continue for another 45 minutes to
Tollare, from where its a hefty but spectacular four-hour trek to the harbour at
Centuri. Its not a particularly strenuous

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

walk, but be sure to take a hat and plenty

of water; there are no springs en route.
Avoid the midday sun, which can be especially ruthless along this strip of coast.
In July and August its possible to do
only the first section between Macinaggio and Barcaggio, returning on the San
Paulu; see opposite for details.

Hiking isnt the only way to explore the

Sentier des Douaniers, the ancient footpath that winds around the rugged northern tip of Cap Corse. The Centre questre
(%04 95 35 43 76; h9am-6pm May-Sep) based at
Camping U Stazzu, 2km north of Maccinagio, oers guided horseback rides along
the coastal trail (20 per hour), as well as
pony-trekking on the beach for kids from
five years of age (12 per half-hour).

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
LE PIRATE // ERBALUNGA
%04 95 33 24 20; www.restaurantlepirate.com; port

dErbalunga; mains 20-40, menus 29-90; hlunch

& dinner Jul & Aug, lunch & dinner Wed-Sun Mar-Jun
& Sep-Dec

47

Renowned beyond Corsica for its cuisine and service, Le Pirate is one of Cap
Corses most distinguished gourmet
restaurants. Sit in the elegant vaulted
dining room or on a terrace right next
to the harbour, and peruse a menu that
features foodie delights such as red mullet scented with verbena oil and lavender,
octopus risotto with cuttlefish ink, and
langoustine tortellini with roast-hazelnut
infusion.
OSTERIA DI U PORTU //
MACINAGGIO
%04 95 35 40 49; port de Macinaggio; mains 15-22,
menus 16-25; hlunch & dinner Feb-Nov

Enjoying a superb location opposite the

marina, this friendly restaurant with appealing red-and-yellow decor is run by a
dynamic young team. It serves the freshest of fish and seafood, and its a minor
agony deciding between the five-course
menu dcouverte (22) of Corsican dishes and the seafood menu de la mer (25).
U SANTAGNELLU // ROGLIANO
%04 95 35 40 59; mains 10-18, menu 20; %lunch &

dinner mid-Aprmid-Oct

A mere 5km west of Macinaggio yet a

world away from the crowded coast, the

MAISONS DES AMRICAINS

In the 19th century, many Corsicans emigrated to mainland France or to her colonies to
escape poverty. Others headed to the Americas, especially the USA, Venezuela, Puerto
Rico and Peru, to seek their fortune. In many hamlets of Cap Corse, only the eldest son of
his generation remained behind. Some, having made their pile, returned to the villages
of their birth and built themselves a fine residence, known as a maison des amricains. In
striking contrast to the more-modest local rural architecture, these proud structures, often
with a nod towards Italian palazzi or colonial architecture, proudly asserted I have made it.
Look at me and mine.
Around Cap Corse, you can identify these extravagances by their sheer size, their
generally rectangular shape and their steep four-sided roofs. Adornment often includes a monumental staircase, a pillared balcony above the main entrance and gardens planted with palms and exotic trees.

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

CENTRE QUESTRE U
STAZZU // RIDE HORSEBACK
ALONG AN ANCIENT TRAIL

CAP CORSE

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

48

CAP CORSE

areas cosiest and most welcoming choice

sits up in the hills, with a panoramic terrace that commands stunning views. The
menu features mainly local products,
from grilled veal to roast kid to vegetable
tart, and varies according to whats available at the market that morning; the signature dessert, mousse de brousse au miel
(local cream cheese whipped to a mousse
with honey), is delightful. From Macinaggio, take the D80 westward and turn
left onto the D53, signed Rogliano.

WESTERN CAP CORSE

CENTURI // SAVOUR SEAFOOD
AT A HARBOURSIDE RESTAURANT

The tiny, boat-crammed harbour of

Centuri is not only the prettiest and most
picturesque in Cap Corse, its also home
to the most important crayfish fleet
on the island, landing 3 tonnes of the
beasties each year. Many of them travel
only as far as the viviers (live tanks) of
the dozen or so seafood restaurants that
cluster tightly round the harbour.
There are few more-pleasant spots
to savour a seafood feast than in one of
these eateries, though you should expect
to pay around 150 per kilo for the privilege of dining on crayfish. Stroll around
and take your pick we enjoyed an excellent lunch at the Auberge du Pcheur
(%04 95 35 60 14; mains 12-22, menu 25; hlunch
& dinner Apr-Oct) on a shady terrace over-

looking the harbour. Our charcuterie and

fish soup was followed by a fritto misto
de poissons du Cap (mixed fry of Cap
Corse fish), all washed down with a delicious San Quilico ros from Patrimonio.
THE COAST ROAD // DRIVE THE
SPECTACULAR D80

The D80 road along the west coast of

Cap Corse is one of the most spectacular

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

on the island, a long, looping rollercoaster of a ride with stunning views

and breathtaking drops into the sea. Its
best taken north to south, as part of an
anticlockwise tour of the peninsula
the views are best with the mountains of
central Corsica in the background
and at a leisurely pace. Despite recent
improvements, many stretches are still
only wide enough for one vehicle, so
take care.
The road passes by several ruined Genoese towers, and in several places minor roads lead o the D80 and corkscrew
down to little beaches, called marines.
These include Marine de Negru, a shingle beach backed by clis and overlooked
by a Genoese tower, and the sandy beach
of Marine de Farinole, famed for its challenging surfing.
By the way, the ugly industrial scar
just north of Nonza where the road
looks like it might crumble into the
sea is a former asbestos quarry that
was abandoned in the 1960s. The stone
waste from the quarry was dumped into
the sea, but washed up again to form the
massive shingle beach below Nonza.
NONZA // EXPLORE CAP CORSES
MOST ENCHANTING VILLAGE

Clinging to the flanks of a rocky pinnacle topped with a stone tower, the
village of Nonza is easily the most attractive on the capes western coast. Its
jumble of schist-roofed stone houses
looks ready to tumble down the steep
hillside, seemingly anchored only by
faith and a tangle of pine trees and pink
oleander blossoms. Take some time
for yourself to wander among its steep
and meandering alleys so tight and
precipitous that no vehicle will ever
negotiate them before stopping for a
drink at the delightful open-air Caf de

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

CAP CORSE

49

CORSICAS PATRON SAINT

la Tour, its tables clustered around the

village fountain in the shade of a trio of
plane trees.
Next door to the cafe, which sits beside
the main road in the heart of the village,
is the red-and-yellow 16th-century glise
Ste-Julie, with a polychrome marble altar
created in Florence in 1693. Opposite the
church, a steep, stepped lane leads up to
the 18th-century Tour de Nonza (admission
free; h8am-sunset). In contrast to the circular
towers build by the Genoese, this one
built during the era of Pascal Paoli is
square; in summer theres an exhibition of
local arts and crafts inside, and the views
from the top are superb.
Nestled among the rock outcrops below
the tower is La Sassa (%06 11 99 49 93; mains
10-25; hlunch & dinner May-Oct), a scatter of
rickety tables and benches on a clitop terrace. Serving snacks, salads and ice creams
through the day, it turns out steaks, beef
ribs, and lamb and prawn kebabs in the
evening. Theres live music from 7pm on
weekends, and on Thursdays in July and
August.

INLAND CAP CORSE

The D180 crosses the Cap Corse peninsula between Pino and Marine de Santa
Severa, giving access to the peaceful little

village of Luri and the expansive views

from the Col de Santa Lucia.
LES JARDINS TRADITIONNELS
DU CAP CORSE // TASTE LURIS
LOCAL FRUIT AND VEG
%04 95 35 05 07; www.lesjardinstraditionnelsducap
corse.org; admission 4; h9-11.30am Mon-Fri May-Oct

This experimental organic garden has

been developed to preserve and display the indigenous strains of plants
that have been cultivated in Cap Corse
in centuries past, including olive, fig,
cherry, plum and peach trees; vegetables
such as zucchinis, tomatoes, aubergines,
and sweet and flavoursome oignons de
Sisco (Sisco onions); as well as native
wild plants such as maritime pines,
green oaks, chestnut trees and arbutus
bushes.
Pick up a leaflet and wander through
the gardens, then return to the maison
du got (tasting house), where you can
sample and buy a range of fresh local
products such as cipullina (onion preserve) and fiurone (fig jam), all made by
the voluntary association that runs the
gardens.
The gardens are 800m east of Luri, on
the south side of the road look for the
parking area just before the road crosses
the river. Its not signposted.

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

Just north of the church in Nonza, a path descends steeply from the road to the Fontaine Ste-Julie, a spring dedicated to Corsicas patron saint. A memorial plaque on
the small shrine describes how, in AD 303, St Julie was martyred and crucified for her
Christian beliefs. After her death, her breasts were cut o and hurled against the rock,
whence this miraculous spring arose. From its twin outlets, the water flows cool on even
the hottest day.
Below the fountain, the path drops sharply down to the long strip of grey shingle
beach, little frequented at this end and great for Robinson Crusoelike solitude. To
reach it by car, head 2km northward along the D80, then cut left along a narrow
paved road that leads to the shore. Take a sun umbrella, as theres no shade.

50

LE NEBBIO

TOP FIVE

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

SCENIC VIEWPOINTS

Bastias Citadel (p40) Great views

over the Vieux Port

Tour de Snque (below) The crest

of Cap Corse

D80 Coast Road (p48) An everchanging panorama of coast and

mountain

Tour de Nonza (p49) A dizzying

outpost perched high above the sea

Sierra di Pigno (p57) A supreme

vantage point above the Golfe de
St-Florent

A MIMORIA DI U VINU //
LEARN ABOUT THE WINES OF
CORSICA IN LURI
%04 95 35 06 44; adult/child 3/free; h10am-noon &
4-7pm Tue-Sat Jun-Sep

Luris little wine museum presents

the history of Corsicas wine industry
through displays of winemaking equipment and interviews with traditional
winemakers. Best of all, it oers an amusing and interesting introduction to wine
tasting by firstly challenging you to describe various scents and flavours before
moving on to the local wines themselves.
Each year, on the first or second weekend of July, Luri hosts the Fiera di u
Vinu (www.acunfraternita.com, in French), a wine
festival with market stalls, barbecues,
musical events and, of course, lots of
wine tasting.
LE TOUR DE SNQUE // HIKE TO
AN ANCIENT LOOKOUT TOWER

From the Col de Santa Lucia (381m),

the highest point of the D180, some
vigorous walking, mostly through mixed
woodland, will bring you to the Tour

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

de Snque and perhaps the finest of

the capes many superlative-inspiring
panoramas.
Leave your car beside the dilapidated
chapel at the col (pass) and follow the red
flashes as far as a complex of abandoned
buildings. Here the gradient becomes
stier and youll be using all four limbs
to negotiate one brief stretch. But what a
vista! From the crumbling Genoese tower,
the view embraces both Cap Corses
eastern and western shorelines, as well as
the Monte Stello range, the capes north
south dorsal spine. Allow one hour for this
fairly strenuous, hugely rewarding walk.

LE NEBBIO
The Nebbio, relatively lightly travelled, is something of a buffer zone,
squeezed between Bastia and Cap
Corse to the north and La Balagne,
with its coastal fleshpots and rugged
interior beauty, to the southwest.
West of the fashionable St-Florent
stretches the little-visited expanses of the
Dsert des Agriates, fringed by some of
Corsicas most beautiful beaches. The
Nebbio is also one of the islands prime
wine-producing areas: there are more
than 30 vineyards in and around Patrimonio, still in the hands of small-scale
producers. The first Corsican region to
be granted Appellation dOrigine Contrle (AOC) status, Patrimonio produces some of the islands finest vintages.

ST-FLORENT
(SAN FIURENZU)
pop 1500
If you believe the locals, the chic resort of
St-Florent, the Nebbios main town (in
fact its only place of any size), is a kind
of St Tropez in miniature and indeed,

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LE NEBBIO

if you stroll alongside the marina where

luxury yachts the size of your house are
moored, youll see what theyre driving
at. The town compensates for the absence
of major monuments with a welcoming,
laid-back atmosphere and some delightful nearby beaches. And, for a place of its
size, it has some first-class restaurants.

51

skirts the eastern side of the town and

leads into place des Portes, the main
square and a major trac bottleneck.
The narrow streets of the old town
stretch northward towards place Doria.
Crossing the river Poggio, the D81 continues south towards Oletta, while sandy
Plage de la Roya stretches westward.

ORIENTATION

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION // St Florent

tourist oce (%04 95 37 06 04; h9am-noon &

2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
0
0

ST-FLORENT
A

300 m
0.2 miles

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Tourist Office......................... 1 D1

8
Quai
d'Honneur

C2
C2
C2
C1
C2
C2

TRANSPORT
Transports Santini................ 15 D2

Rte

Pl Doria

D81

13
7
6

3
12 R de Fornellu

9
11
Pl des Portes

D238

Plage de
la Roya

de la Plage de la Roya

iso

15

Beach
Path

C
Pa hem
roi in
sse del
e

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
Acqua Dolce.........................13 C1
Oshadi................................. 14 D3
Tentation.............................(see 8)
3

10

Le

14

D81

To Maison Le
Rorqual (600m)

4
D81

Rd

e la

liso
Q de l'A

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
Bara Vin.................................7
La Gaffe.................................8
La Gelateria............................9
La Marinuccia.......................10
La Rascasse.......................... 11
Le Cabestan......................... 12

Golfe de
St-Florent

Al

EXPLORING ST-FLORENT
Agriate Marittima................(see 4)
Citadel...................................2 C1
Ind'e Lucia.............................3 C2
Le Popeye..............................4 C2
Le Popeye Ticket Office......... 5 D2
Milo Bar................................. 6 C2

L'

To Poterie du
Nebbiu (3km);
Bastia Poretta
Airport (30km)

Pog

Cat

gio

hd

rale

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

St-Florent is little more than a village,

and is easily explored on foot. The main
D81 road from Bastia and Patrimonio

52

LE NEBBIO

EXPLORING ST-FLORENT

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

PLACE DORIA // RELAX AND

WATCH THE WORLD GO BY

Centred on a cute little fountain lined

with bronze frogs, place Doria is the
cool and shady heart of old St-Florent.
Though only a few steps away from the
bustling harbour, the old square seems
to move at a slower pace. Cafe tables
are scattered beneath a spreading plane
tree, and there are a couple of benches in
the far corner that enjoy superb sunset
views.
Both locals and tourists meet here
for a drink and a chat, or to buy an ice
cream from Ind Lucia. The atmosphere
is at its best in early evening grab an
outdoor table at Bara Vin (right), order a
glass of wine and watch the world (well,
half of St-Florent) go by.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

priate hauteur, and its terrace provides

a grandstand view of the goings-on in
the harbour. Afterwards, head for a
seafood dinner at La Gae (below) or
La Rascasse (opposite).
CITADEL // STRETCH YOUR
LEGS, SOAK UP THE VIEW

An easy not-even-10-minute ascent from

the harbour brings you to the rather
forlorn and tumbledown outer bulwarks
of St-Florents citadel. Built under the
Genoese, its much-restored interior is
closed to the public. What makes the
climb worthwhile is the eagles-eye panorama from the ample terrace that extends
beneath the fortification.

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
BARA VIN
%04 95 37 04 48; place Doria; mains 6-16; h4pm-

QUAI DHONNEUR // COCKTAIL

HOUR AMONG THE SUPERYACHTS

St-Florent likes to think of itself as the

St Tropez of Corsica, and not without
reason. Its gourmet restaurants, secluded
beaches and good harbour within easy
cruising distance of the Cte dAzur attract celebs such as Elton John, Kylie
Minogue, Jean-Paul Gaultier and JeanPaul Belmondo, whose gin palaces moor
at what St-Flo has christened the quai
dHonneur to match its counterpart in
St Trop.
Join the crowds of beautiful young
things for the early-evening ritual of
strolling along the harbour, trying not
to peer into the luxurious afterdecks
and smoked-glass saloons of the yachts
lined up along the quay. The quai
dHonneur boasts a dozen or so bars
and restaurants the trendy Milo Bar
(%04 95 37 19 19; rte Neuve; h10am-2am) has
the best cocktails, served with appro-

late May-Sep

With its impressive range of AOC Patrimonio wines by the glass (3.50 to 7)
and tables spilling onto place Doria, this
is a top place for an early-evening drink
recommended crus include the white
from Clos Teddi, and the muscat from
Domaine de Catarelli. You can snack on
tapas or turn the experience into a full
dinner; the menu runs from an excellent assiette de charcuterie (charcuterie
platter) or a Spanish tortilla to a sizeable
platter of mixed dishes or even steak and
chips.
LA GAFFE
%04 95 37 0012; quai dHonneur; mains 12-59, menu
28; hdinner Mon & Tue, lunch & dinner Wed-Sun
mid-Febmid-Nov

This tempting quayside terrace restaurant, decorated in nautical style, is a

St-Flo favourite that has been in business
for over 30 years. Chef Chantal Bourneuf
oers superb locally caught fish and

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LE NEBBIO

53

fresh crayfish (14 per 100g), as well as

inventive dishes such as ravioli of mussels flavoured with leek. You can dine
in the brick-arched interior or on the
harbourside terrace, next to the giant
yachts.

LA GELATERIA

LE CABESTAN

rue de Fornellu; per scoop 1.50; h1.30-7pm May-Oct,

1.30-10pm Jul & Aug

%04 95 37 05 70; rue de Fornellu; mains 13-30, menu

17; hlunch & dinner mid-AprOct

Youll probably have to wait a while in

line at this popular spot, which oers
more than 50 dierent flavours of homemade ice cream. All the usual favourites
are there, plus some more-original ones,
such as maquis herbs, Murato chestnut
and (oh, yes!) Nebbio olive oil.

This barrel-vaulted tunnel of a place with

a small mezzanine floor is very much of
the island theres polyphonic singing
in the background, and it does a greatvalue menu Corse. The soupe de poissons
is huge and hearty, and the daurade
(sea bream), stued with tomato, lemon
and herbs from the maquis, is grilled to
perfection.

LA MARINUCCIA
%04 95 37 04 36; place Doria; mains 25-45, menu
23; hdinner Tue, lunch & dinner Wed-Sun May-Oct

Perched on a terrace built out over the

sea in a hidden corner of the town, La
Marinuccia oers a choice of seafood
or beef, both beautifully prepared. The
house speciality is sardines au Brocciu
(sardines stued with goats- or ewesmilk cheese and mint), while daily
specials such as fricasse de langouste et
St-Jacques (fricassee of crayfish and scallops) are scrawled on the blackboard.
Book a table for an hour before sunset,
and enjoy the sound of waves lapping on
the rocks as you watch the sun descend
into the gulf in a blaze of glory.
LA RASCASSE
%04 95 37 06 99; quai dHonneur; mains 16-48, menu
38; hlunch & dinner mid-MarOct

Arguably the finest of St-Florents gourmet restaurants, La Rascasse combines

elegance and attentive service with
imaginative and flavoursome seafood.
House specialities include salt-baked
sea bass with fennel (70 for two), and

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
ACQUA DOLCE

place Doria

This tiny shop-cum-workshop tucked in

a corner of place Doria sells a range of
handmade gold and silver jewellery set
with semiprecious stones including turquoise, jet and coral. Prices are reasonable, beginning at 20 for earrings, 40
for necklaces and 25 for bracelets.
OSHADI
%04 95 37 00 21; www.oshadimassages.com;
quai de lAliso

One of the few such places on the island,

Oshadi is a shop and cafe that oers organic produce, natural cosmetics, essential oils and healthy eating supplements;
it also has a Turkish bath (12 for 30
minutes) and oers massages.
TENTATION
%04 95 37 06 21; Strada Nova

Set on the quayside opposite the superyacht berths, this place specialises in

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

seafood such as araigne de mer (spider crab) with tagliatelle, daube de lotte
(monkfish stewed with wine and vegetables), saute de St-Jacques (fried scallops
in a rich seafood reduction) thats
cooked simply and with care.

54

LE NEBBIO

womens fashion, with a range of elegant

dresses, skirts, trousers, shorts and shirts,
mainly made from white or black linen.
POTERIE DU NEBBIU

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

%06 18 52 79 51; D82, plaine dOletta

Located 3km southeast of St-Florent

on the road to Oletta, this unassuming little roadside pottery turns out
beautiful glazed stoneware in a range of
traditional and modern designs. Its a
one-man operation, and you can watch
the potter at work; he speaks a little bit
of English.

TRANSPORT
BUS // The bus stop is just south of the main square.

Transports Santini (%04 95 37 04 01) buses

depart for Bastia (twice daily).
CAR // St-Florent is a trac bottleneck driving

across the main square in the morning or late afternoon

will involve a long wait. Bastia airport is a 30km drive
southeast from St-Florent via the winding D82; allow at
least 40 minutes.
PARKING // On-street parking is tight in the town
centre its best to park on the outskirts and walk in.

AROUND ST-FLORENT
PLAGE DU LOTO // TAKE A BOAT
TRIP TO THE BEACH

The picture-postcard Plage du Loto

(also called Plage du Lodo, du Lodu and,
to complete the confusion, du Lotu),
on the edge of the Dsert des Agriates,
is a superb 400m stretch of fine white
sand fringing a shallow bay of brilliant
turquoise water. Its a beautiful spot for
swimming and sunbathing, and the shallow water is safe for children to play in.
Apart from a small wooden jetty, the
beach is completely undeveloped no
hotels, no snack bars, no deckchairs so
bring a picnic and plenty of water, and
some form of shade.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Plage du Loto is hard to get to by

land its either a long, hot hike along
the coastal path from St-Florent, or a
slow and bumpy 4WD ride from the
D81 at Casta. But the easiest way to
get to the beach a 30-minute boat
trip from St-Florent harbour is also
the most enjoyable; its a classic St-Flo
experience. Two companies run boat
trips to the beach. From mid-June to
September Le Popeye (%04 95 37 19 07;
www.lepopeye.com; round trip adult/child 14/8)

departs St-Florent at least hourly from

8.30am to 3.30pm, and departs from
the beach from 11.20am to 7.30pm;
in May and early June there are five
boats a day each way (10am to 1.45pm
outward, noon to 4.30pm return). You
can buy tickets on the pier, or book in
advance at Le Popeye ticket oce on
the town square.
Agriate Marittima (%06 17 50 65 58;
www.agriate-marittima.com; round trip adult/child
14/8) departs from the same pier, and

has similar timings. It also oers the option of continuing from Plage du Loto
to Plage de Saleccia by calche (horsedrawn carriage; round trip adult/child
29/20).
PLAGE DE SALECCIA // HIKE
ALONG THE AGRIATES COAST

Just a few kilometres west of Plage du

Loto lies the bigger and even more beautiful Plage de Saleccia, a 1000m-long
strand of dazzling white sand backed by
scented groves of Corsican pine, where
chestnut-coloured cattle often snooze
alongside the sunbathers. You can get
here from Plage du Loto by calche, but
its far more rewarding to walk. A coastal path known as the Sentier du Littoral
runs all the way from St-Florent to Ostriconi (45km), but the stretch linking
Loto and Saleccia is just under 4km, and

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LE NEBBIO

There are no facilities on the beach,

but theres a little shop and a bar at the
nearby Camping U Paradisu (%04 95 37
82 51; www.camping-uparadisu.com; hbar 9ammidnight), which serves snacks from noon.
PATRIMONIO // DISCOVER THE
FINE WINES OF THE NEBBIO

Located 6km from St-Florent, Patrimonio has two principal claims to fame: its
vineyards and its annual guitar festival.
Youll recognise the village from a distance by its 16th-century glise St-Martin, a stout stone construction of granite
and brown schist thats become an informal icon for the Corsican wine industry.
Patrimonio sits in the centre of a
natural amphitheatre of limestone crags
known as the Conca dOro (Golden

WORTH A TRIP

Between St-Florent and the mouth of the Ostriconi river lies an arid landscape known as
the Dsert des Agriates, an area of low chalky mountains and a maquis so sun scorched
that even the plants seem rocklike.
Its hard to believe this area was once Genoas breadbasket. Indeed, right up until
the 20th century, life in the area was governed by the rhythms of seasonal livestock
grazing and sowing. In October shepherds from the Nebbio highlands and the Valle
dAsco would bring their goats and sheep down for the winter, and in June farmers
arriving by boat from Cap Corse would take over the area. At one time, the region
was as famous for its olive groves as those of the Balagne villages. But the widespread use of cobuage (cultivation on burnt stubble) and the devastation wrought
by fires fanned by the prevailing winds transformed the once-fertile soil into a stony,
barren desert.
The 35km of coastline, by contrast, offer spectacular back-to-nature scenery. The
Plage de Saleccia (opposite) setting for the film The Longest Day (1960) stretches
for nearly 1km, its shimmering white sand and turquoise waters comparing favourably
with any tropical-island paradise. The smaller but equally as stunning Plage du Loto
(p54) and Plage de lOstriconi, at the eastern and western edges of the Agriates region
respectively, are also superb. Some claim the latter has the finest-grained sand in all of
Europe.
In the 1970s, various hare-brained schemes were proposed to transform the area,
including building a Club Medstyle holiday complex. All were resisted and nowadays
the full 5000-odd hectares of the Dsert des Agriates enjoy protected status.

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

can be linked with the inland trail used

by the calches to make an excellent circular walk.
From the jetty at Plage du Loto go left
then right up a steep trail to the calche
stand, and follow the dusty 4WD track
into the maquis. Enjoy the view of the
central mountains ahead as you breathe
in the scent of pine needles baking in the
sun and listen to the chirr of cicadas. Go
right at a junction with some ruined stone
sheds and, at the fork where you can see
a campsite ahead, go right again to reach
the western end of the beach; the walk
takes around 45 minutes. To return, head
for the far end of the beach (20 minutes),
then follow the path along the coast (55
minutes). The total distance for the walk is
8km; allow around two hours of walking.

55

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

56

LE NEBBIO

Shell), where the chalk and clay soil has

been used for growing vines since Roman times. The Patrimonio area was the
first in Corsica to be granted an AOC
seal of quality; the regions vineyards are
small, the vines are pruned and picked by
hand, and most adhere to organic principles of agriculture. The signed Route des
Vins leads from St-Florent around nearly
500 hectares of land cultivated by around
30 small growers; ask at the St-Florent
tourist oce (p51) for its slender AOC
Patrimonio: La Route des Vins brochure.
Most of the wineries welcome visitors for
tastings without appointment.
The wines themselves crisp dry
whites, ross more golden than pink,
and robust reds well merit your attention. The sweet and fruity muscat dessert
wine, once exported in quantity by the
Genoese, now rarely gets beyond the
island.
The following are among the recommended caves (cellars):
Clos de Bernardi (%04 95 37 01 09) Top-notch
reds from a certified organic producer.

Domaine de Catarelli (%04 95 37 02 84)

Superb muscat.

Domaine Gentile (%04 95 37 01 54; www

.domaine-gentile.com) Perhaps the most exclusive cru.

Domaine Leccia (%04 95 37 11 35; www

.domaine-leccia.com) Excellent reds that regularly win
awards.
Domaine Orenga de Gaory (%04 95 37
45 00) The pick of the full-bodied reds.
NUITS DE LA GUITARE // LISTEN
TO LIVE MUSIC UNDER THE STARS

For a week each year in July, Guitar

Nights, one of the highlights of Corsicas
summer calendar, puts the tiny Nebbio
village of Patrimonio on the map for
something other than its excellent wines.
The Association Les Nuits de la Guitare
(%04 95 37 12 15; www.festival-guitare-patrimonio.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

com) organises an eclectic program that

in any one year might include Corsican,

classical and flamenco guitar, and styles
as diverse as rock, salsa, blues and jazz.
The 2009 line-up, for example, included
singer-songwriter Tracy Chapman, Ten
Years After guitar legend Alvin Lee, flamenco maestro Vicente Amigo and Irish
rock-guitarist Pat MacManus.
Events take place on an outdoor stage
flanked by a couple of menhir statues.
Tickets (30 to 40 per night) are available from the festival oce in Patrimonio,
selected music and bookshops across
Corsica, and online.
OSTERIA DI SAN MARTINU //
TUCK INTO BARBECUED LAMB ON
AN OPEN-AIR TERRACE

This attractive restaurant (%04 95 37 11 93;

Patrimonio; mains 13-17, menu 22; hlunch & dinner Jun-Sep) with views over the vineyards

specialises in hearty meat dishes grilled

over vine twigs on an open-air barbecue;
we savoured the lamb chops, juicy, tender and still pink in the middle. It also
does a magnificent four-course menu
Corse, which includes a giant platter of
local charcuterie. The house wines are
supplied by Domaine Lazzarini, located
just up the road and run by the owners
brother.

DRIVING TOUR
Distance: 70km
Duration: four hours
From St-Florent, take the D81 northward and drop into Patrimonio (p55) if
you havent already visited it; should you
be o to a late start, Osteria di San Martinu (above) makes a great lunch stop.
Otherwise, continue to the Col de
Teghime (536m), high up on the islands spine and straddling the moun-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LE NEBBIO

0
0

LE NEBBIO
Golfe de
St-Florent

4 km
2 miles

\
# Patrimonio

D81

Sierra
di Pigno

# St-Florent
]

Poggio

0
D81

Col de
Teghime

0
D38

L'Aliso

D82

\
# Poggio

d'Oletta

\
# Oletta

Col de
Santu
Stefanu
#
Vallecalle \

0
D62

< San Michele

"
de Murato

Murato \
#
D5

Bevi n c

0
D62

Dfil de

Lancne

D82

0
!

LAuberge A Magina (%04 95 39 01 01; menu

15, mains 15-20; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun Apr-Oct)
has great views across the Nebbio from
its terrace.
At the roundabout marking the Col
de Santu Stefanu, 4km beyond Oletta,
there is a possible detour. But first pause
at the second of two monuments honouring the Moroccan troops and their
French ocers who, at this strategic spot
and at the Col de Teghime, fought to take
Bastia in 1943, the first French town to
be liberated from Axis rule. From the
roundabout, two roads, the D62 and
the D82, snake around the deep gash of
the Dfil de Lancne, then drop to the
N193 and the coast; for a switchback
thrill, follow the more-spectacular D62
for a kilometre or two as it creeps along
the contours of this narrow gorge, then
return to the roundabout to take the exit
signed Murato.
You cant miss the gorgeous Pisan
Romanesque glise de San Michele de
Murato, with its distinctive green-andwhite stripes and checkerboard patterning. The white blocks (chalk) came from
St-Florent, while the green (ophite) was
quarried from the bed of the nearby Bevincu river. Naive figurines carved in the
stone peer down from the upper reaches.
The church dates from around 1140, and
local legend has it that the structure was
built in just one night by angels. During
Corsicas brief independence in the 18th
century, the village of Murato, a kilometre or so further along the road, was the
seat of the new states mint.
If nights approaching by now, Chambres dHtes Gaucher (p243) is a warmly
recommended chambres dhtes (B&B)
just a short drive away in the hamlet of
Vallecalle. From here, head east to the
D82 and follow this road north to return
to St-Florent.

BASTIA & THE FAR NORTH

tains between Bastia and St-Florent.

Less than a kilometre beyond the pass,
take a narrow tarred road left for the
steep 4.5km ascent to the summit of the
Sierra di Pigno (961m), bristling with
radio and telephone antennae. From its
windy top, there are soul-stirring views
in all directions: eastward as far as the
Italian island of Elba on a clear day,
west to the Golfe de St-Florent and the
Dsert des Agriates, and north over the
snaggle-toothed peaks of Cap Corse.
Below you sprawls Bastia, extending
almost to the shimmering waters of the
tang de Biguglia.
Return to the col and take the signed
D38 to pass through the straggling
hamlets of Poggio dOletta and Oletta,
the latter dominated by its 18th-century
glise de San Cervone. At the northern
entrance to Oletta, just o the D38,

57

CALVI & LA
BALAGNE

3 PERFECT DAYS
DAY 1 // EXPLORING CALVI

Get your beach work in early, before the sun gets too intense. Then explore Calvis citadel (opposite) for stunning seascapes and views as well as for the history. After lunching
lightly, drive to the chapel of Notre Dame de la Serra (p66) for a magnificent birds-eye
view of Calvi or walk out along Pointe de la Revellata (p66). In the early evening, window-shop in the old quarter, then stroll along the short length of quai Landry (p65) at
sunset. End the day with dinner in a restaurant (p68) in the same small historical area.
DAY 2 // LE ROUSSE & AROUND

Spend the cooler part of the morning exploring the Parc de Saleccia (p72). Enjoy an
early lunch at the splendid Michelin-starred Restaurant Pasquale Paoli (p75), then head
inland to explore the Balagne villages of Pigna (p78) and SantAntonino (p81), allowing
at least an hour for each. Returning, take in the agreeably eccentric Muse de Corbara
(p78; note those restricted entry hours!). Back in le Rousse, sip an aperitif on the terrace
of venerable Caf des Platanes (p73), wind down and watch the world drift by.
DAY 3 // A COASTAL ESCAPE

Follow the spectacular, lightly travelled D81B coastal road (p70) southward from
Calvi. At Argentella (p71) explore the furnaces, dam and remaining buildings of this
abandoned silver mine. In the small seaside resort of Galria, hire a kayak and paddle
the waters of the Delta du Fango (p71), renowned for its rich birdlife. From Galria,
take the D351 as it follows the valley of the river Fango (p72) upstream. Beside the
river are several choice spots for a picnic and a dip in its clear waters. Backtrack almost
to Galria and return to Calvi by the faster, almost-as-attractive D81.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

CALVI

ESSENTIAL
INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04

95 65 16 67; www.balagne-corsica.com; port de plaisance; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun

59

May-Oct, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) Covers

Calvi and La Balagne. Produces an audioguide to the
citadel (7). Tourist oce annexe (h10am12.30pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sat, 3-6pm Sun mid-JunAug,
11am-6pm Tue-Sat early Jun & Sep) A seasonal annexe
just inside the citadel.

EXPLORING CALVI
TRAMWAY DE LA BALAGNE //
CLASSIC RAIL JOURNEY BESIDE
GETAWAY BEACHES

Every year the beaches and hidden coves

of the Balagne coastline come to life with
the first beach towel of summer. The lifeline that connects these isolated coves is
the Tramway de la Balagne (%04 95 65 00
61; www.ter-sncf.com, in French; single/return 5.40/8).

This bone-shaking little train trundles between Calvi and le Rousse up

to eight times daily between Easter and
September, calling at 15 stations en
route, all of which are request only. Hop
o at an intermediate halt for a quiet
rocky cove or, for sand, leave the train
at Algajola or Plage de Bodri, the last
stop before le Rousse.
There has been talk for years of improving the rolling stock but so far little
has changed. All to the good the trains
lo-fi quality adds to its charm. Indeed,
rail enthusiasts from all over the world
now converge on Calvi to ride whats
aectionately known as u trinighellu (the
trembler) before its finally put out to
pasture. Bag a seat on the seaward side.
CITADEL // CALVIS DEFENSIVE
BASTION: HISTORY AND
SPECTACULAR VIEWS

No entry tickets, no visiting hours, no

compulsory guided tour youre free to
explore the citadels heterogeneous cluster of buildings as the mood takes you,
(Continued on page 64)

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

pop 5500
Calvi, capital of the Balagne region, is the closest Corsican town to
Frances Mediterranean coast; indeed,
with its thriving cafe culture and
restaurants ringing the port, it might
have been transplanted from the Cte
dAzur. Explore the lanes and alleys
of the citadel, dine at a restaurant
near quai Landry, and loll on the
towns long strand of beach. Make
sure, too, that you jump aboard the
rickety Tramway de la Balagne as it
trundles to le Rousse and back.
It was the Romans who first established a settlement here. Frequently exposed to raids by Barbary pirates, Calvi
fell under the fairly loose control of Pisa
from the 11th to 13th centuries. In the
late 13th century, rivalries between local
lords caused Calvis inhabitants to turn
to the republic of Genoa for protection.
Using Calvi and the southern town of
Bonifacio as bases, Genoa soon took
control of all Corsica.
The citys most famous hour came in
1553, when France dispatched its troops
to invade Corsica. Joined by Turkish
forces under the command of the Turkish privateer Dragut, this motley fleet
captured Bastia, St-Florent and Bonifacio
but failed to take Calvi. In recognition
of the towns resistance, Genoa gave the
town its motto: Civitas Calvi semper fidelis (City of Calvi forever faithful).

C A LV I

60

C A LV I & L A B A L A G N E

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

TRAMWAY DE LA BALAGNE

p59

Ride the Tramway de la Balagne for

an unforgettable coastal journey

D81B

p70

Drive the majestic, challenging

D81B between Calvi and Galria
Algajola

Ligurian Sea

#
Lumio \

p71

D451

D81

D81B

Col de
ssa

Galria

27

Pigna

23

23

SantAntonino

21

21

11

$ Capu di

Argentella

Delta du
Fango

Va
ll
ed
Fango #
\
u

Fa
n

go
Fango

To Porto (30km)

a
gn

se

Pi

us
Ro

Ca
l

vi

24

Note: Distances between destinations are approximate

0
D251

Col de
Bocca
Rezza

U
"
Fort
de Bonifatu

D81

le

Ca

le
nz

an

13

D81

Argentella

\
#

DISTANCE CHART (KM)

le Rousse

\
#

Baie de
Crovani

Paddle a sea kayak through

this estuary

#
Suare \

l
re

p71

#
Calenzana \

\
#

Calvi SteCatherine

Capu di $
a Conca

Calvi

D71

D151

Explore the abandoned silver

mine at Argentella

DELTA DU FANGO

D551

\
#

N197

iga
LaF

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

ARGENTELLA

Occi 0

Golfe de
0

Calvi Calvi

0
Montemaggiore
0
"1
0

Golfe
de la
Revellata

Pointe de la
Revellata

\
#

#
Marine de \
San Ambrogio

HAUTE-CORSE

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

C A LV I & L A B A L A G N E

0
0

OCCI

10 km
6 miles

0
!

p70

A deserted hamlet thats only

accessible on foot

#
Ostriconi \

PARC DE SALECCIA

Monticello
0

0
Corbara
0
Santa0
Reparatadi-Balagna
Pigna
Barrage de
Belgodre
Codole 0
Sant'Antonino

D13

D 2

D363

#
\

D263

#
\

ic
Le Ostr

N197

#
\

#
\

#
\

#
\

#
\

0 Sp loncato

0
Co la Battaglia
0
Lunghignano
Pioggiola

0
Feliceto
Zilia

Olmi- 0
0

0
D8

Lama

N197

#
\

D71

D13

#
\

\
#

#
\

D963

#
\

D963

D151

$ San

Parteo

Cappella

D463

N197

# Vallica
\

PIGNA & LAMA

$ Monte

Grosso

$ Monte

Corona

U
"
Fort de
TartagineMelaja $ Mont
Padru
Asco

p78, p79

Appreciate what regeneration

means in the restored villages of
Pigna and Lama

#
\

Cirque
de Bonifatu

Parc Naturel Rgional

de la Corse

Monte
Cinto

0
D147

o
e l'Asc
ges d
Gor

FORT DE TARTAGINE
MELAJA

p76

Pad along a gentle trail within this

massive forest

GETTING AROUND
You can comfortably survive on the coast without a vehicle, taking the Tramway de la Balagne
between Calvi, le Rousse and intermediate stations. But to head southward or to experience the
seductive inland delights of La Balagne, a vehicle of your own is the only way. In this chapter, we
detail two full day driving routes that explore inland (p76 and p80), plus a circular day outing south
of Calvi (p70).

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

D63

\
#

#
\

p72

Prowl Parc de Saleccia to learn

about Corsicas plants, trees
and shrubs
Monte Astu

ni

D63

Aregno
# Cateri
\

LE NEBBIO

D81

Plage d
Bo i
le Rousse
3\
"
Punta di
#
Parc de
"
Valliton
Salecci

61

62

C A LV I & L A B A L A G N E G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

GETTING STARTED

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

You could profitably spend a whole week in Calvi,

La Balagnes main resort. Dont restrict yourself to
the coast, however; allow at least two days to explore
Calvis delights, then grab the steering wheel to explore
inland Balagne for a couple more. Build in, too, the
hold-on-to-your-hat coastal drive southward to Galria
and the Valle du Fango. Then give the car a rest and
take the Tramway de la Balagne, the dinkiest train
youve ever swayed on, to visit le Rousse, Calvis more
peaceful northern neighbour; if youre after tranquillity, consider basing yourself here.
TOP EXCURSIONS
BOAT TRIPS TO THE RSERVE NATURELLE DE SCANDOLA

Take a boat trip with Colombo Line the journey is a thrill in itself to this spectacular
marine and terrestrial nature reserve with its rich birdlife and stunning clis (p66).
INLAND TO THE FORT DE BONIFATU

A varied days driving that embraces a couple of vineyards, a venerated chapel and the
opportunity to walk deep into silent forest (p76).
INLAND VILLAGES OF LA BALAGNE

A scenic driving tour that also takes in the main villages of the interior, including the
craft settlement of Pigna (p80).
BIANCONI SCUPERTA

Sit back in air-conditioned luxury as you enjoy a guided visit, planned by a local historian and executed by his enthusiastic young team (p64).
CIRCULAR DRIVE SOUTH OF CALVI

A full day of stunning panoramas with the chance to prowl an abandoned silver mine,
sea kayak and swim in freshwater pools (p71).
TRAMWAY DE LA BALAGNE

Clunk and sway on this classic rail route as it snakes along the coast between Calvi and
le Rousse (p59).

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

C A LV I & L A B A L A G N E G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

GETTING AWAY
FROM IT ALL

TOP EATING
EXPERIENCES

Youll rarely find yourself truly alone on the

coast in summer. If you head upward and
inland, however, youll find near-empty
roads and a wealth of walking opportunities
among small hamlets.

EAT

Delta du Fango Silent paddling along a

bird-rich estuary (p71)

Small coves below the Tramway de

la Balagne It is still possible to find a
less frequented beach (p59)

Epicurean delight at the foot of the citadel (p68)

LE JARDIN

Delightful dining in a lovely leafy garden

(p68)
RESTAURANT PASQUALE PAOLI

Michelin-starred newcomer thats Corsican to the core (p75)

Occi You may well have company on

the walk up to this deserted village, but
if you continue onward youll find satisfying all-alone striding (p70)

LESCALE

Fort de Tartagine-Melaja A deep,

Dine on the terrace or in the barrelvaulted interior (p79)

silent inland forest (p76)

TOP WALKS

Popular dining in le Rousses old quarter (p74)

CASA MUSICALE

U CALLELU

Serves the freshest of produce (p69)

POINTE DE LA REVELLATA

Walk the promontory that extends south

of Calvi for great views of the town and
its backdrop of mountains (p66)

RESOURCES

NOTRE DAME DE LA SERRA

A hung, pung ascent from Calvi to a

haunting shrine and vista followed by a
hands-in-pocket descent (p56)

of Calvi and le Rousse tourist offices;

also covers the Balagne in general

FORT DE TARTAGINE-MELAJA

Quiet padding through dense woodland,

as long or short as you care to make it
(p76)

Ma Balagne (www.mabalagne.com) Multilingual message board with links to

Balagne-related blogs

OCCI

An easy ascent to a haunting deserted

hamlet, then onwards to enjoy the changing panorama of coastal seascapes (p70)

La Balagne (www.balagne-corsica.com) Site

Parc Naturel Rgional de la Corse

(PNRC) (www.parc-naturel-corse.com, in
French) The body that administers much of
inland Corsica

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

63

64

C A LV I

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

(Continued from page 59)

enjoying superb wraparound views of

Calvi and its bay at almost every turn.
Built in the late 15th century by the
Genoese, it has seen o several major
assaults down the centuries, fending o
everyone from Franco-Turkish raiders to
Anglo-Corsican armies notably during
the siege of 1794, when the citadel was
attacked by the forces of the revolutionary leader Pascal Paoli (see the boxed text,
p193), supported by the British. During
the ensuing battle, a young captain by the
name of Horatio Nelson lost his right eye.
Just above place Christophe Colomb,
pass through the citadel entrance (an arch
with the towns motto inscribed above it),
and take one of the alleys that lead steeply
upward to place dArmes and the former
Palais des Gouverneurs Gnois. Built in
the 13th century and extended during the
16th, it was once the palace of the Genoese
governors of La Balagne. Now renamed
Caserne Sampiero, it serves as the officers mess hall for the French Foreign
Legion, who are billeted just outside town
(youll probably come across soldiers
wearing the regiments distinctive white
hats, which are known as kpis).
The Cathdrale St-Jean Baptiste
(h9am-6pm) overlooks place dArmes.
To the right of the high altar and protected behind glass, the ebony Christ des
Miracles is credited with having saved
the town from Franco-Turkish invasion
in 1553; legend has it that the besieging
fleet turned tail after the citizens paraded the statue through their streets.
Popular belief also has it that the
(now missing) central panel of the
15th-century triptych on the wall behind the altar was destroyed by an English cannonball during Nelsons siege.
Others sources aver that it was simply

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

filched. Whats indisputable is that it

was replaced by a particularly kitsch
statuette of the cathedrals patron, John
the Baptist.
Retrace your steps to the place
dArmes. The little street on the left
leads to the Oratoire de la Confrrie
St-Antoine (Oratory of the St Antoine Brotherhood; h10am-6pm), whose facade features a
primitive slate lintel depicting the abbot
St Antoine. The interior walls are decorated with 15th- and 16th-century frescos
(some, alas, severely timeworn) and, on
the north wall, theres an imposing ivory
Christ figure. Opening hours can be
irregular.
The citadel has five bastions, each offering wonderful seascapes. Near Bastion
Celle in the northwest corner a marble
plaque marks the alleged birthplace of
Christopher Columbus.
BIANCONI SCUPERTA //
GUIDED TOURS LED BY A LOCAL
HISTORIAN

The enthusiastic young team of Bianconi Scuperta (%06 30 78 94 93, in French; per
person half-day 40, full day 45-55; hAprmidNov) oers original tours of La Balagne

based upon themes such as saints and

bandits, the Corsican soul and feudal lords and feudal arts. Tours are
generally in French, but are also regularly in English in the high season, and
prices include travel by air-conditioned
vehicle.
VAGABONDARTE // WALK
AND CREATE IN THE BALAGNE
COUNTRYSIDE

Join artist Cathy Astolfi (Corsican as they

come, despite her first name), creator of
VagabondArte (%04 95 34 21 82, 06 46 21 84
66; www.cathy-astolfi.com, in French; workshop incl
materials 20; hApr-Oct), as she leads a rural

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

C A LV I

walk and open-air guided workshop

(2 hours). Based on their days experience, participants can sketch or paint,
create a video or photographic record,
or assemble a work of installation art.
Reserve in advance. No prior knowledge
is necessary.

QUAI LANDRY // A QUAYSIDE

STROLL

With pleasure craft bobbing to starboard, bars and restaurants beckoning to

port, a short sunset stroll along the quay
brings you to the Tour de Sel, built for
defence and later serving as the towns
0
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CALVI
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66

664
Av
d

RECOMMENDED SHOPS f
A Loghja .............................................(see 23)
Annie Traiteur......................................23 C3

V
"

an
to
re

To Htel
La Villa
(2km)
S
de
R

ACCOMMODATION i
Htel Belvdre ..................................24 C2
Htel Le Rocher...................................25 B3
Htel Restaurant Le Magnolia .......26 B3

Marina
(Port de
Plaisance)

V
"

4
"
3

N197

Golfe de Calvi

To A Fundaria (300m); Centre questre

A Cavallu (2km); Calvi Ste-Catherine
Airport (6.5km); L'Astratella (7km); le Rousse (24km)

TRANSPORT
Ferry Quay ............................................27 D3
Garage d'Angeli ..................................28 B2
Les Beaux Voyages .........................(see 12)
Train Station.........................................29 B4
Tramway de la Balagne .................(see 29)

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Citadel Entrance................................7 C2
Tourist Office ..................................... 1 B4 Colombo Line ....................................8 B3
Tourist Office Annexe ..................(see 7) Corse Voyages ...................................9 C2
1
Dcampanaglass.............................. 10 C3
EXPLORING CALVI
Galerie Marie Ricco ....................... 11 B3
Birthplace of Christopher
Les Beaux Voyages........................ 12 B4
Columbus ........................................ 2 C2 Oratoire de la Confrrie
Calvi Nautique Club......................(see 4)
St-Antoine .................................... 13 C2
Calvi Plonge..................................... 3 B4 Tour de Sel....................................... 14 C3
2#
Calvi's Beach ...................................... 4 B5
Caserne Sampiero............................ 5 C2
Bastion
#
p
Cathdrale St-Jean Baptiste.......... 6 C2
Citadel
Celle
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#
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Pl de la
#
Le Jardin .............................................(see 26)
Porteuse 12
Port de
d'Eau
Le Tire Bouchon...............................(see 17)
Plaisance
3
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U Callelu ................................................20 C3
1 p
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U Minellu...............................................21 B3
#
H
29
NIGHTLIFE ?
r Train
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# Station
p
Chez Tao................................................22 D2

66

C A LV I

salt store. The quay can be elbow-to-elbow strollers at aperitif time, a veritable
Italian passeggiata; wait until sunset,
when many have retired to dine and the
light is at its mellow best.
CALVIS BEACH // SAND AS FAR
AS THE HORIZON
Stand beside Calvi Nautique Club (%04
95 65 10 65; www.calvinc.org, in French; hdaily
Apr-Oct) and sweep your eye around the

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

shoreline of the Golfe de Calvi to its

furthest limit. Except for a single short
rocky strip, its sand all the way. If you
fancy something more strenuous than
pressing a beach towel, the club rents
windsurfers and sea kayaks.
COLOMBO LINE // TRAVEL BY
SEA TO RSERVE NATURELLE DE
SCANDOLA

Between April and October, the boats of

Colombo Line (%04 95 65 32 10; www
.colombo-line.com, in French, hdaily Apr-Oct) sail
to the magnificent Rserve Naturelle
de Scandola. From May to September,
you can make the same journey more
intimately on its catamaran, which also
does a full-day excursion to the Dsert
des Agriates.
POINTE DE LA REVELLATA //
APPROACHING MAINLAND
FRANCE GIVES BEST VIEWS OF LA
BALAGNE

A two-hour (round trip) walk along

a well-defined track brings you to the
nearest Corsican point to the French
mainland, home to a lighthouse and a
gorgeous view of Calvi and the sheer,
spiky mountains of La Balagne, still
coied with snow until early June. Looking southward, a wilder, even more
beautiful coastline recedes. To get to
Pointe de la Revellata, drive 3.5km west

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

of place Christophe Colomb along the

D81B, and park at the bend in the road.
The routes clear; look for the blue paint
blobs if in doubt. When the lighthouse is
well in sight, bear right at the sign stating
200m demi tour ociel.
BELOW THE WATER LINE //
SNORKELLING AT A COUPLE OF
PRIME SITES

Snorkellers can flap their flippers around

the limits of the Rserve Naturelle de
la Pointe de la Revellata. Here fish,
no respecters of boundaries, swim in
abundance, and you stand a reasonable
chance of an encounter with dolphins
sneaking over the border of the reserve
for dinner. Qualified divers can descend
to the wreck of a WWII B-17 bomber,
barely 200m o shore; sign on with Calvi
Plonge (%04 95 65 33 67; www.calviplongee2b
.com, in French; quai Landry; hMon-Sat AprmidOct) or another of Calvis several dive

operators.
NOTRE DAME DE LA SERRA //
THE FINEST BIRDS-EYE
VIEW OF CALVI

Signed from the same bend as Pointe

de la Revellata, a pocked blacktop road
runs for 1.5km up to this windswept
spot, a place of pilgrimage for the people of Calvi for more than five centuries.
Its marked by a tiny chapel and a statue
of a shrouded Virgin Mary gazing out
over the Golfe de Calvi. In the guise of
Our Lady of the Sierra, shes the town
patron; see the plaques of thanks for
her intervention on the wall beside the
main gate.
You can also approach this splendid
viewpoint by a none-too-demanding
afternoon hike. The town map provided
by the tourist oce (p59) marks the trail,
which starts beside Htel La Villa.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

ARTS & CRAFTS // GLASS, POP

ART AND KNIVES
At Dcampanaglass (%04 95 47 81 60; www
.dcampanaglass.com; cnr Monte du Port & rue Clemenceau; h10am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 3-7pm Sun),

glass-blower Dominique Campana and

his American wife, Carol, display and
sell his sensuous, flowing pieces of art.
Each Tuesday and Thursday, you can
see him at work beside his kiln. In case
youre seduced by some fragile creation,
they ship worldwide.
Granted, most of the canvases Marie
Ricco displays are way too large to tuck
into your cabin baggage but, for the
experience, do drop by the splendid
Galerie Marie Ricco (%04 95 39 48 18;
www.galeriemariericco.com; 3 bd Wilson; h10am12.30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct), a sparkling

http://monsite.wanadoo.fr/afunderia; av Christoph
Colomb; h9am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Sat Mar-Jan),

Patrick Martin fires and fashions traditional knives for hunters and fellow
craftfolk, plus daggers, axes and morecreative works in steel and bronze.
LASTRATELLA // DISTILLING
WILD HERBS FOR NATURAL
MEDICINES

COACH TOURS // LET SOMEONE

ELSE DO THE DRIVING

Corse Voyages (%04 95 65 00 47; www

.corsevoyages.com, in French; bd Wilson; hMon-Sat
year-round) and Les Beaux Voyages (%04
95 65 11 35; www.lesbeauxvoyagesencorse.com, in
French; place de la Porteuse dEau; hMon-Sat yearround) do half- and full-day tours to destinations such as the Fort de Bonifatu,
Cap Corse and the inland villages of the
Balagne.
CENTRE QUESTRE A CAVALLU //
ON HORSEBACK THROUGH
THE PINES

This horse-riding centre (%04 95 65 22

22; www.a-cavallu.com, in French; hMon-Sat Jul &
Aug, Wed, Sat & Sun Sep-Jun) oers guided trail
rides (20 per hour) and, for experienced

ACCOMMODATION
In July and August, its essential to
reserve ahead; prices tend to be lower at
inland hotels.
For our picks, see the separate
Accommodation chapter. Our special
favourites include the following:

Chambres dHtes A Flatta (p245) is

the ultimate roads-end getaway

Wonderful, welcoming Chambres

dHtes U Chyosu di a Petra (p246)
has bags of character

Family-run and friendly Htel Cala di

lOru (p244) is in a quiet part of le
Rousse

Htel U Palazzu (p245) is a

magnificent restored 18th-century
mansion

Htel Restaurant Le Magnolia

(p244 ) is a recently renovated belle
poque mansion with a great garden
restaurant

Pleasantly cluttered and with a pair of

amiable, panting dogs, LAstratella (%04
95 60 62 94; www.astratella.com, in French; h2-6pm
or 7pm Mon-Sat) has at its heart a distillery

thats like a bootleggers, but on a grander scale. The team, committed to aromatherapy, collects wild herbs and flowers
such as myrtle, rosemary and juniper,
and you can buy the distilled essences in
phials and bottles from the shop. To get
here, drive along the N179, turn right
3.75km after the airport turning and follow signs for 1.4km.

67

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

ultracontemporary touch in an otherwise traditional town.

At A Fundaria (the Forge; %06 79 17 09 96;

C A LV I

68

C A LV I

riders, the chance to canter through the

surf. To get here, drive along the N197
in the direction of the airport, turn left
around 2km from the centre of town and
head 500m down a dusty track.

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS

dreamy dessert of mango ice cream on

a pistachio-cream bed stabbed with a
crisp almond biscuit. What is lost in
translation is the size of a dish, which is
indicated by L (in fact, a half-portion)
or XL (full portion). Eat in the allmaroon interior, on the terrace, or in
the shade of a lone olive tree.

A SCOLA

MILES

%04 95 65 07 09; mains around 15; h10am-7pm

Mar-Oct

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

It may be dicult to imagine, but this

tiny place opposite the cathedral door
was once a primary school for girls.
Nowadays, Annie Consorti runs a
pleasant little tea house thats ideal for
a refreshing cup, restorative snack or
scrumptious pastry as you explore the
citadel. Grab the table nearest to the
picture window, which has a stunning
view of the bay, and make sure you
browse the collection of antiques and
bric-a-brac.
AUX BONS AMIS
%04 95 65 05 01; rue Clemenceau; mains 20-27,
menus 18-35; hApr-Sep, closed Wed except Jul & Aug

%04 95 65 09 60; quai Landry; mains 32-50, menus

50-120; hdaily mid-Marmid-Oct

Youll need to keep your eyes open

to find miles, which is up an easily
overlooked flight of steps that leads
from the quay to the restaurants
scenic 1st-floor terrace. Calvis choicest restaurant has been awarded one
Michelin star, and youll certainly enjoy a sophisticated dining experience
here why, even the menu reads like a
book of poetry.
LABRI COTIER
%04 95 65 12 76; rue Jore; mains 16-25, menus
23-33; hdaily midMar-Oct

Aux Bons Amis has a short, select la

carte choice, and serves up the best of
fresh fish and seafood amid nautically
themed decor. Its recommended menu
saveur terroir (18) is a wonderful sample of island specialities.

With its pastas and risottos, saltimbocca

and tiramisu, this popular spot has a
decidedly Italian flavour. Ask for one of
the coveted tables beside the panoramic
window, one floor up and lording it over
the restaurant terraces below. The cuisine is creative; try, for example, the sea
bass accompanied by a basil flan.

EAT

LE JARDIN

%04 95 38 21 87; cnr Monte du Port & rue Clem-

enceau; mains around 18, menu 29; hclosed Wed

year-round

No, not an Anglicism to enrage

the conservatives of the Acadmie
Franaise; rather, EAT is the acronym of picurien avant tout (above
all, epicurean). And indeed dishes are
a gastronomic delight indulge in a

%04 95 65 08 02; rue Alsace Lorraine; mains 18-24,

menus 21-27; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun, dinner Mon

The courtyard restaurant of Htel

Restaurant Le Magnolia (p244) is a
wonderfully relaxing option. Enjoy generous portions beneath the vine-twined
branches of the eponymous magnolia
tree; the mussels, steamed in a sauce of
cream, vermentinu wine (an aromatic

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

C A LV I

Corsican white) and wild fennel, are as

youve never tasted them before.

de-vie drizzled over scoops of chestnut

ice cream.

LE TIRE BOUCHON

U MINELLU

%04 95 65 24 41; rue Clemenceau; mains 14-24.50,

menu 18; hJun-Sep, closed Wed Apr, May & Oct

This cheerful option, as much wine bar

as restaurant, is a delight. Perch yourself
on the balcony overlooking the crowds
milling on rue Clemenceau, then order
from the dishes of the day, posted on a
chalkboard. Treat yourself to a taste of
the finest Calvi or Patrimonio Appellation dOrigine Contrlee (AOC) wine
(listed on four blackboards you sense
the stas priorities), available by the glass
or bottle.
U CALLELU

Updated four times annually, the menu

at this informal, laid-back eatery chases
the changing seasons. Its exuberant
owner proudly tracks down the best in
the areas local produce: meat and veg
from the market, wine direct from the
vineyards and fish straight o the boats.
This place is hugely popular with Calvais read the eulogies in the visitors
book.
U FANALE
%04 95 65 18 82; www.ufanale.com, in French; rte
de Porto; mains 18.50-31, menus 18-24; hlunch &
dinner Wed-Mon, lunch Tue Mar-Dec

The young brother and sister who run

the lighthouse oer aable service as
they bustle about the busy terrace, popular with locals and visitors alike. Dishes
are delightfully presented, though you
may find the fresh flowers stuck onto
most mains unnecessarily gimmicky.
Make sure you save a corner for the
coupe glace U Fanale, a measure of eau-

%04 95 65 05 52; traverse de lglise; mains 14-19.50,

menu 19; hWed-Mon Apr-Jun & Sepmid-Oct, dinner
daily Jul & Aug

The leafy terrace and vaulted interior

of U Minellu are justifiably packed and
popular. Run by a youthful, smiling
team, the restaurant oers an excellentvalue menu thats authentically Corsican from starter to dessert; try, in
particular, the peppery stewed wild boar
with polenta. It doesnt accept credit
cards.

NIGHTLIFE
CHEZ TAO
%04 95 65 00 73; rue St-Antoine; h9pm-5am

Jun-Sep

Within the citadel and occupying what

was once an episcopal palace, this hip
bar is a Corsican institution. Before
WWII, White Russian migr Tao
Kanbey de Kereko designed the terraces and the lavishly decorated vaulted
interior. Nowadays its run in the same
flamboyant style by his son, Tao-By,
who tinkles the ivories from 11.30pm.
Earlier, its live music on the terrace,
and after 2am a DJ takes you through
the night.

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
ANNIE TRAITEUR
%04 95 65 49 67; www.annietraiteur.com, in French; 5
rue Clemenceau; h7am-7pm

The shelves of this large emporium creak

with jars and tins, pickles and jams
all thats best of Corsican goodies. Cooling in the fridges is a superb range
of cheeses and fresh charcuterie, while

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

%04 95 65 22 18; quai Landry; mains 25-30, menu

23; hMar-Oct, closed Mon except Jul-Sep

69

70

A R O U N D C A LV I

hams and sausages hang in festoons

from the ceiling. Once youre back home
you can buy a delicacy or two from the
website to recall your Corsican holiday.
A LOGHJA
%04 95 65 39 93; 3 rue Clemenceau; h9.30am-8pm

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

Mar-Oct

On a smaller scale than Annie Traiteur

and precisely two doors away, this appealing barrel-vaulted specialist shop
deals only with small, independent
Corsican suppliers. Wines are from
smaller vineyards, and the cheeses
come direct from the farm see if you
can resist indulging in a slice, cut fresh
from the large wheels on the counter.
Youll pay a little more for the produce
but every mouthful merits the extra
cost.

TRANSPORT
AIR // Calvis Ste-Catherine Airport (%04

95 65 88 88; www.calvi.aeroport.fr) is 7km southeast

of town. There are daily flights to mainland France,
notably Marseille and Paris (Orly). Thomson (www
.flights.thomson.co.uk) has weekly flights to and from
London (Gatwick) and Manchester, May to September.
A taxi (%04 95 65 03 10) to and from town costs 20.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BOAT // Ferries run to/from Nice (France) and Savona

(Italy) from the ferry quay; see p268 for details.
BUS // Les Beaux Voyages (%04 95 65 11
35; www.lesbeauxvoyagesencorse.com, in French; place
de la Porteuse dEau) runs one bus, Monday to Saturday
year-round, from Calvi to Bastia via le Rousse.
TRAIN // There are at least two departures daily to Bastia and Ajaccio, each requiring a change in Ponte Leccia.
For le Rousse, take the Tramway de la Balagne (p59).
BICYCLE // Garage dAngeli (%04 95 65 02
13; www.garagedangeli.com, in French; place Christophe Colomb) rents bikes.
PARKING // Calvi has a number of car parks dotted
around town.

AROUND
CALVI
OCCI // A ROMANTIC
LONG-ABANDONED MOUNTAIN
HAMLET

The only way to visit the deserted settlement of Occi is on foot and thats
whats helped to preserve it. To enjoy
the emptiness and a fabulous panorama
of the Golfe de Calvi you must make a
steepish, exhilarating ascent from Lumio,
10km east of Calvi.

DRIVING FROM CALVI TO PORTO

You could play safe and take the main D81 that runs between Calvi and Porto. Consider
taking the D81B, however: slower yet more satisfying, it snakes along the coast from Calvi
nearly as far as Galria, traversing awesome coastal scenery before turning inland, where
dun-coloured meadows nestle against sheer granite clis.
The tight switchback bends will have you wrestling with the steering wheel, and
the sheer drops to the waves will send butterflies fluttering around the stomach. The
narrowness of the road also means that passing other vehicles not those in your
own lane but those coming at you becomes a nerve-racking game of chicken. There
are no guard rails, rock falls are frequent and the road surface is riddled with potholes.
Oh, and watch out for stray mountain goats!
Its not a road trip for the faint-hearted, but if youre prudent and take your time
youll enjoy one of Corsicas most spectacular drives.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

ALGAJOLA (ALGAGHJOLA) //
A QUIET SANDY BEACH

A splendid crescent of sandy beach, loved

by surfers for its waves, curves northward
from tiny Algajola, located 15km from
Calvi and 7km west of le Rousse. Normally quieter than its larger neighbours,
the beach makes for a fun day trip from
either Calvi or le Rousse by the clanking
Tramway de la Balagne (p59).
Theres an appropriately minuscule
tourist oce (%04 95 62 78 32; h9am-noon)
in a room at the back of the station.
If youre looking for somewhere to
eat, you really ought to indulge in a

71

pierrade (meat, fish or seafood sizzled

on a hot stone) on the broad terrace of
friendly La Veille Cave (%04 95 60 70 09;
place de lOlmo; mains 14-17, menus 17.50-22;
hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun, dinner Mon Apr-Oct).

Alternatively, opt for the agneau Corse

de lait, local baby lamb, roasted to
perfection.
ARGENTELLA // EXPLORE AN
ABANDONED SILVER MINE

If youve a penchant for industrial archaeology, follow the D81B southward

from Calvi for around 20km to Camping
Morsetta. The track opposite its bar leads
to this deserted silver-mine complex.
Several companies have extracted
silver from the lead-bearing rock, including a British company that installed
steam engines and constructed a dam
to collect water for cooling in the 19th
century.
Root around the furnaces (taking
care the structures really are tottering) and crumbling administrative
quarters. Then walk up to the old dam
where frogs croak and plop, and baby
turtles bask. Looking back, the complex
resembles an abandoned monastic settlement. If you have the energy and
time, you can continue up the track
for around 45 minutes to the mine itself, where there are more abandoned
buildings.
DELTA DU FANGO // SILENT
PADDLING THROUGH A QUIET
ESTUARY

At the small seaside resort of Galria,

rent a sea kayak from Delta du Fangu
(%06 22 01 71 89; www.delta-du-fangu.com, in
French; per hr 5; h10am-6pm Jun-Sep), based be-

neath the Genoese tower. As you paddle

youll see a wealth of aquatic birds and, if
youre lucky, tiny freshwater turtles.

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

Leave your vehicle in the car park

opposite Htel Restaurant Chez Charles,
beside the N197 at Lumios northern
limit. Beyond the sign for Occi, tarmac gives way to track, then path, well
waymarked with dark blue blobs and
arrows. After 25 to 35 minutes, this ancient mule track brings you to your goal.
Occis renovated chapel, with plaster
and cement slapped on indiscriminately,
contrasts with the dignity of the dwellings skilfully crafted drystone walls,
inexorably tumbling back to the earth.
The coastal settlements of Marine de
SantAmbrogio and Algajola stand out
clearly below and from the highest point
you can make out the stabbing finger of
le Rousse.
Exploring over, you can head back
to the car park, or carry on to enjoy a
circular walk back to Lumio. Continuing
on, follow the red dots up a zigzagging
path to enjoy easy, mostly level walking
beneath the crest. Keep well to the right
of a small chapel, then turn right at a
T-junction to follow a steeply descending
path to Lumio. Walk through the village
to your car; the total walking time should
be 1 to two hours.

A R O U N D C A LV I

72

LE ROUSSE (ISULA ROSSA)

VALLE DU FANGO // DEEP ROCK

POOLS UP A LITTLE-TRAVELLED
VALLEY

For a riverside picnic and a refreshing

dip, take the D351 eastward from Galria
along the valley of the river Fango. Precisely 1.4km beyond the village of Fango,
clear pools glisten beneath Ponte Vecchiu, a steeply arched Genoese bridge.
If the best spots have been taken, there
are several other opportunities upstream
beside steep yet shallow gorges.

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

LE ROUSSE
(ISULA ROSSA)
pop 2750
With its turquoise and lapis lazuli
waters a striking contrast against the
porphyry-coloured rocks from which
it takes its name, le Rousse (the
Pink Island) makes an excellent base
both for exploring the rich hinterland
of La Balagne and for indulging in
seaside pleasures.
Ironically, this appealing holiday resort,
the entry point for tens of thousands of
holidaymakers from mainland Europe,
was originally founded as a Corsican
political statement. In 1758 the nationalist leader Pascal Paoli (see the boxed text,
p193) thumbed his nose at Genoa-controlled Calvi, barely 25km along the coast,
by establishing the town; soon, what was
a quiet fishing hamlet became a serious
commercial rival to its larger neighbour.

ESSENTIAL
INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04

95 60 04 35; www.balagne-corsica.com; av Joseph Calizi;

h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun mid-JunmidSep, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri mid-Sepmid-Jun)

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

EXPLORING LE ROUSSE
VISIOGUIDE // A NOVEL WAY TO
EXPLORE THE TOWN

These days, many major sites oer an

audioguide to help you around. But the
cheerful team at le Rousses tourist office (%04 95 60 04 35; www.balagne-corsica.com;
av Joseph Calizi; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun
mid-Junmid-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri midSepmid-Jun) has gone one better with the

Visioguide (7), where photos accompany the audioguide, the first of its kind in
France. Let yourself be led around town
and onto le de la Pietra.
PARC DE SALECCIA // LOVELY
GARDEN SHOWCASING THE
PLANTS AND FLOWERS OF
CORSICA

Wander the 7 hectares of these landscaped gardens (%04 95 36 88 83; www.parc

-saleccia.fr, in French; rte de Bastia; admission 7.50;
h10am-8pm Jul & Aug, 9.30am-7pm Tue-Fri & Sun,
2-7pm Mon & Sat Apr-Jun, Sepmid-Oct) to explore

the flora of the island the tough plants

of the maquis, pines, myrtles, fig trees,
over 100 varieties of olive tree and, in season, bank upon bank of azaleas and oleanders bursting with colour. The gardens
are 4.5km from town on the Bastia road.
GALERIE SAETTA //
PHOTOGRAPHS OF CORSICA AND
THE WORLD BEYOND

Antoine Prigot, Corsican and world

traveller, displays stunning photos of
Corsica and his African travels in his
gallery (%06 12 73 83 29; www.miccanomi.fr, in
French; rue dAgila; admission free; h10am-2pm &
6pm-midnight May-Oct), located in a former

wine cellar. Corsica Muntagna, his magnificent coee-table album of Corsicas

mountains through the seasons, took
two full years to compile. For those holi-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LE ROUSSE (ISULA ROSSA)

day postcards home, purchase some of

his original shots (0.70 each, 9 for a
pack of 16).

terrace of venerable Caf des Platanes

(h7am-midnight daily), in business since
1928, or retreat from the heat inside the
cafe, where its all varnished woodwork
and brass rails.

PLACE PAOLI // COFFEE AND

HISTORY IN LE ROUSSES
CENTRAL SQUARE

COVERED FOOD MARKET //

A TINY TEMPLE TO FRESH
PRODUCE

At the heart of this square, the statue

of Pascal Paoli, Babbu di a Patria (Father of the Land), keeps a weather eye
on the state of the nation. Its a place to
relax, sit back and enjoy a drink beneath
mature plane trees to the click and thud
of lobbed ptanque balls. Choose the

Its small and everythings over by 1pm.

But its not often that you get the chance
to buy your picnic fare in a classified historical monument. Constructed around
1850, the open-sided market building
0
0

LE ROUSSE
B
C
To le de la Pietra (100m);
Genoese Watchtower
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
(250m); Lighthouse (600m) Tourist Office......................... 1 C3
Port de
1
Commerce
EXPLORING LE ROUSSE
Au Bon Caf.......................... 2 B4
Caf des Platanes...................3 B3
Port de
Club Nautique d'le Rousse.... 4 A2
Plaisance
Harbour
Covered Food Market............5 B3
Galerie Saetta.........................6 B3
Statue of Pascal Paoli.............7 B3
Tourist Office.......................(see 1)

L'le d'Or..............................10 B3
Restaurant Pasquale Paoli.....11 B3

19

ACCOMMODATION
Htel Isula Rossa..................14 A2
Htel-Restaurant Le Grillon.. 15 C4
TRANSPORT
Balagne Cycles..................... 16 C4
Buses to Bastia.....................17 B4
Buses to Calvi.......................18 B4
Ferry Quay...........................19 A1
La Passion en Action............20 B4
Train Station........................ 21 A2
Tramway de la Balagne......(see 21)

du

Po
rt
Train
Station

Bd d
e

te Val

ry

iccion

18

Pl Marcel
Delanney

20

12
2
de

lvi

Ca

17

de

To Htel Cala di lOru (800m);

Plage de Bodri (1.5km);
Calvi (27km)

Rte

Av Charles
de Gaulle

N197

Rte

15
llo

Montice

D63

R Dr Massari

R du Colonel
Allegrini

Promen
Bd Cha ade A Marinella
rles Ma
rie Savelli
Av
Jose 1
ph
Cali
zi

Av P

Fog
ata

Bd Com

Pl
6
Santelli
a
il
g
R d'A
13
5
R de Nuit
11
e
p
7
hilip
uis P
Pl
R Lo
Paoli
10

ck
Ro

ame
tre D
R No
oli
R Pa
n
R Napolo

21

16

Av Paul Doumer

N197

To Parc de
Saleccia (2.8km)

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

14

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
Au Bon Vin Corse.................12 B4
Aux Gateaux Corses.............13 B3

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
Brasserie du Port.....................8 A1
L'Escale..................................9 B3

Rt

400 m
0.2 miles

73

74

LE ROUSSE (ISULA ROSSA)

(place Paoli; h8am-1pm) with 21 classical

columns (thickly disproportionate, it
must be said) resembles a Greek temple
to food.
AU BON CAF // A CLASSIC
COFFEE HOUSE

Youll smell the aroma of freshly roasted

beans wafting from Au Bon Caf (%04 95
60 02 40; place Marcel Delanney; h8.30am-12.30pm
& 3-7.30pm Mon-Sat) well before you reach

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

this small celebration of the divine brew.

Run by the same family since 1932, it has
beans from around the world, jute sacks
piled high, coee makers of all shapes
and complexities, and a slowly turning
giant roasting pan thats close to celebrating its first century of action.
A BEACH AWAY // A SEASIDE
WALK TO A QUIETER BEACH

To escape the crowds that throng le

Rousses three sandy beaches, take the
Sentier des Douaniers, a path once
patrolled by vigilant customs ocers,
which leads south of the train station and
along the coast to the even sandier, even
longer Plage de Bodri. Alternatively,
hop on the Tramway de la Balagne for
just one station or, if youre driving, take
the N197 westward and turn right after
Camping Bodri.
PADDLING AROUND
THE PROMONTORY // AN
UNDEMANDING SEA-KAYAK
OUTING
Club Nautique dle Rousse (%04 95 60
22 55; www.cnir.org, in French; rte du Port; hMarChristmas) organises gentle two-hour sea-

kayak trips (30 including kayak hire)

around le de la Pietra and its oshore
islets, with a built-in sea dip en route.
Rental alone costs 11/17 per hour for a
single/double.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LE DE LA PIETRA // WALKING
TO THE TIP OF LE ROUSSE

For an easy stroll, head over the short

umbilical causeway that links rocky le
de la Pietra to the mainland, past a small
Genoese watchtower and up to the
lighthouse, from where theres a spectacular seascape. Allow 20 to 30 minutes
for the round trip from the port.
STRETCHING THE LEGS
A LITTLE MORE // A GREAT
RESOURCE FOR WALKERS

The tourist oce (%04 95 60 04 35; www

.balagne-corsica.com; av Joseph Calizi; h9am-7pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun mid-Junmid-Sep, 9am-noon
& 2-6pm Mon-Fri mid-Sepmid-Jun) sells a wallet
file (12) that details four easy, signed
country walks in the immediate vicinity
of the town. They vary in length between
6km and 20km, and you can always simply nibble o a section of the longer ones.

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS
BRASSERIE DU PORT
%04 95 60 10 66; www.brasserie-du-port.com,
in French; Port de Commerce; mains 15-22, menus
15.50-17.50; hMon-Sat

Three brothers run this busy brasserie, a

favourite with both locals and the passing
trade. Located right beside the ferry jetty,
the restaurant has large picture windows
providing optimum views of mountain
and bay (less so when a giant ferry blocks
the sight lines). Enjoy large leafy salads,
and the freshest of fish and seafood, all
washed down with wine by the jug.
LESCALE
%04 95 60 10 53; rue Notre Dame; mains 12-24;
h7am-2am daily

Youd be well advised to reserve at this

big, bustling place; request a table on

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

the terrace overlooking the bay. Content

yourself with a pizza (11 to 12.50), take
it relatively light with one of the vast,
frondy salads, or perhaps go for a plate of
steaming mussels, prepared in six dierent ways. Whatever you do, save an extralarge cranny for one of the giant desserts,
eased down with a nip of the 65-proof
firewater thats proered free with the bill.
LLE DOR
%04 95 60 12 05; place Paoli; mains 15-22, menus
15-21; hdaily

RESTAURANT PASQUALE
PAOLI
%04 95 47 67 70; www.pasquale-paoli.com; 2 place
Paoli; mains 20-35; hdinner Thu-Tue Jul & Aug, lunch
& dinner Mon, Tue, Thu-Sat, lunch Sun Sep-Jun

Awarded a Michelin star when it had

been barely two years in business, the
whitewashed, vaulted Pasquale Paoli belongs to a pair of passionate gastronomes,
both Corsican to their boots. As a bust
of the great liberator watches over the
tables, the matre d describes with infectious enthusiasm the chalked-up dishes of
the day; theres no printed menu, but an
Anglophone assistant is on hand if something gets lost in translation.

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
AU BON VIN CORSE

place Marcel Delanney

Head here to stock up on Patrimonio

wines red, ros, white and muscat

75

drained directly from the shops gleaming aluminium tanks, or sip on the spot
from the greater range of local crus. For
supplementary vitamin C, choose the vin
aux fruits (fruit wine; 2.20).
AUX GATEAUX CORSES

rue de Nuit

Get your fingers sticky at this simple

spartan even boutique with its freshly
baked Corsican specialities such as canistrelli (biscuits confected from lemons,
aniseed, flecks of chocolate and raisins)
and sweetmeats based on chestnuts.

TRANSPORT
BOAT // Ferries run to Nice, Marseille and Toulon
(France) and Savona (Italy) from the ferry quay; see p267.
TRAIN // There are two departures daily to Bastia
and Ajaccio, each requiring a change in Ponte Leccia.
Tramway de la Balagne links le Rousse and
Calvi; see p59 for details.
BUS // Beaux Voyages (%04 95 65 11 35;
www.lesbeauxvoyagesencorse.com, in French) buses
between Calvi and Bastia pass through le Rousse; the
tourist oce has schedules. Bus stops are unmarked.
BICYCLE // Balagne Cycles (%04 95 38 12 99;
www.balagne-cycles.com, in French; av Paul Doumer)
and La Passion en Action (%04 95 60 15 76;
av Paul Doumer) rent out bikes.

LA BALAGNE
INTERIOR
What beckons here is the dramatic
landscape. Granite outcrops, their
colours changing by the hour, are
sliced by ravines and sheer gullies,
while the scattered hilltop villages a
church, town hall, cafe and thats it
are a world away from the coastal
fleshpots. Around the villages, onceprolific olive groves compete with

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

At this spot beside the main square, you

can eat inside or in the shade of the awnings that protect the restaurants vast
terrace. The choice of dishes is wide: the
menu is especially strong on fish and
seafood, and there are options for all
budgets, from a simple salad or pizza to a
full-blown dinner.

LA BALAGNE INTERIOR

76

LA BALAGNE INTERIOR

cherry, walnut and chestnut trees

as they struggle to survive the twin
onslaughts of human neglect and
forest fire.
Youll need a vehicle and a minimum
of two days to savour the charms of inland La Balagne. Theres a lot to pack in,
and you wont be averaging more than
50km per hour. Clunk your safety belt
and brave the twisting minor roads that
thread these inland treasures.
Should you want to break the journey,
see p245 for a selection of attractive rural
sleeping choices, each full of character
and providing a more economical alternative to coastal hotels.

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

INLAND FROM CALVI

FORT DE TARTAGINEMELAJA // A MAGNIFICENT DRIVE
AND GENTLE FOREST WALKING

From Calenzana, drive along the D963

until it peters out after 18km beside
a forestry lodge (p245). The drive is a
stunning one but isnt for those who
fear heights. Tame at first, it then snakes
along a narrow, lightly tracked corniche where even a cow is an event.
The forest oak and chestnut in the
tight gorges, primarily pine on the upper slopes occupies a massive 2700
hectares. For an idyllic picnic spot,
cross the bridge beyond the lodge and
head upstream to a tiny silted-up dam.
Easiest among several walking options
is a marked trail that follows the valley
downstream.

DRIVING TOUR
Distance: 67km
Duration: one day
Head southeast from Calvi along the
N197. After 4.5km, turn right onto the
D151, then left at the first roundabout

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

to take the D451. From way below,

youll soon see the peeling facade of
the 17th-century baroque glise de StAugustin in Montemaggiore. Perched
400m above the plain, the village was
once a major centre for olive oil production before fires devastated the area
in the 1940s. From the church terrace
theres a splendid panorama of Calvi
and the coast.
In Lunghignano, 1.5km further on,
the old olive press of U Fragnu (%04 95
62 75 51; www.ufragnu.com; h9am-noon & 2-6pm
Apr-Oct) still squeezes its own oil, despite

a fire that destroyed around 80% of the

trees when it swept through the valley
in 2005. A four-minute DVD (ask for
the English version) explains the oilproduction process. In addition to olive
products in many guises, U Fragnu sells
delicious homemade cakes. As you leave,
spare a pat for Georges, the ever-patient
donkey who turns the grindstone.
The tiny village of Zilia, 3km beyond,
gives its name to a popular Corsican
mineral water; the spring lies just o
route. For something stronger, turn o
after a further 3.75km for a dgustation
(tasting session) at the reputed vineyard of Domaine dAlzi Pratu (%04 95
62 75 47; h9am-noon & 1.30-7pm Mon-Sat, closed
Sat Sep-Jun).

Two kilometres beyond this small

winery is the Romanesque Chapelle
de Santa Restituta, dedicated to the
martyred patron saint of nearby Calenzana, beheaded in the village square in
the early 4th century. The townspeople
originally planned for the chapel to be
elsewhere but all changed when, so goes
the story, their building materials were
mysteriously and repeatedly moved at
dead of night. The spirit of Restituta,
they concluded, was telling them where
she wanted her chapel. The adjacent

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LA BALAGNE INTERIOR

olive grove and its picnic tables make a

delightful, shaded spot for an alfresco
lunch.
You can expect to see plenty of walkers in Calenzana, 1.5km beyond the
chapel. La Balagnes most populous
town prior to the development of seaside tourism, its the trailhead for both
the GR20 (p214) and Mare e Monti
(p217) long-distance walking routes.
Park your car in the square beside
glise St-Blaise, which has a splendid
free-standing neobaroque bell tower.
Inside, the simple wooden pews con-

trast with the churchs high-baroque

decor, including the vast marble altar.
Beneath and around the tower are buried the remains of some 500 Austrian
mercenaries who were killed here in
battle in 1732, when the village was a
major pocket of opposition to Genoese
occupation.
If youre in need of something to
snack on, pass by friendly E Fritelle
(Tiassu Longu; h7am-5pm), which has been
making crunchy biscuits of all kinds for
more than 25 years. See them slowly
gyrating by the trayful as they bake in the
0
0

INLAND FROM CALVI

# Calvi
]

2 miles

#
Cateri \

N197

Golfe de
Calvi

D151

N197

To Fort de
Tartagine-Melaja
(40km)

D451

#
Muro \
# Lunghignano
\

D151

#
\

Montemaggiore

1 Calvi Ste"
Catherine

Capu di
a Conca

0
D151

Zilia

#
\

Domaine
d'Alzi Pratu
"
{

"
{
Domaine de la
Figarella

Chapelle
de Santa
<
Restituta "

0
D51

#
\

Calenzana

0
D81

6
6
Monte
Grosso
$

#
Suare \

D81

La
F
la
rel
iga

0
D251

GR20
Mare a Mare No
rd

0
!
66666
Parc Naturel
Rgional de la Corse

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

4 km

Ligurian Sea

77

$ Monte

Corona

Col de
Bocca
W Rezza

Auberge de
la Fort

Fort de Bonifatu

Cirque de
Bonifatu

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

78

LA BALAGNE INTERIOR

oven at the rear, and leave with a packet

of cujuelle, the crunchy biscuits made
with white wine that are found only in
Calenzana.
On the Calvi side of town, take a left
turn onto the D51 to descend to the first
flat plain of the day, where you may hit
dizzying speeds in excess of 60km/h.
After youve gone 9km, take a left turn
onto the D251 at a T-junction and head
towards the Fort de Bonifatu, a dense
and all-but-impenetrable mix of maritime and laricio pines, holm oaks and
other broad-leafed trees. Outcrops of
granite pink, beige or grey according
to the light stain the upper reaches.
At the Col de Bocca Rezza (510m),
pause for a few moments to take in the
rocky landscape, sometimes called the
Chaos de Rezza, that extends before
you. Continue to the car park, where
youll find the road ends below Auberge
de la Fort, a walker-friendly hotel with
a restaurant thats more than decent.
From the nearby bridge, you can follow
a shaded footpath downstream, walking
beside the river for a little less than 15
minutes; this will let you discover several secluded rock pools that invite you
to take a dip.
Heading homeward, retrace your
tyre tracks as far as the junction with
the D51, then continue straight ahead;
the road soon becomes the D81. On the
left, 2km before the Calvi Ste-Catherine airport, a signed sandy track leads,
after 600m, to Domaine de la Figarella
(%04 95 61 06 69; www.domaine-figarella.com, in
French; h11am-1pm & 4-8pm Jun-Sep, 3-6pm Wed
& Sat Oct-May), where Achille and Marina

Acquaviva, father and daughter, cultivate their vines in adjacent vineyards,

observing a friendly familial rivalry that
pits the traditional against the ultra-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

modern. Taste for yourself and decide

where you stand.
Continue to the roundabout at the
junction with the N197 and turn left to
return to Calvi.

INLAND FROM LE
ROUSSE
MUSE DE CORBARA // A VERY
PERSONAL COLLECTION
%04 95 60 06 65; place de lglise, Corbara; admission
free; h3-6pm Junmid-Oct)

Art historian Guy Savelli has singlehandedly assembled this fantastic

treasure trove of Corsican historical
artefacts, which includes an original
Account of Corsica by James Boswell
(recounting his Corsica travels and
his meeting with Pascal Paoli) and a
fascinating set of early-20th-century
postcards. Alongside his collection of
pistols and small arms, Monsieur Savelli
treasures a set of fighting knives. In
the old days, even the women used to
carry these knives it was for protection, he says ominously. Donations are
welcome.

PIGNA
The craft village of Pigna is a fine example of how a hamlet, victim of depopulation and falling into terminal decline,
can forge itself a new future, thanks to a
dynamic mayor, committed villagers and
an influx of newcomers with a variety of
talents.
THE VILLAGE LANES //
CAR-LESS ROAMING

Wander at will up, down and along

the villages steep cobbled alleys. If you
poke around, youll come across the
workshops of a potter, an engraver and
a painter, plus fashioners of musical

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LA BALAGNE INTERIOR

boxes, lutes, flutes and more. If you need

more structure, youll find a stylised map
pinned to the noticeboard opposite the
village church.
CASA SAVELLI // THE
FINEST CORSICAN PRODUCE,
SOURCED FROM SMALL-SCALE
PRODUCERS

Dominique Giantini, the creator of

Casa Savelli (%04 95 61 80 49; h10.30am1pm & 3-7.30pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct), produces
her own olive oil and boils up her own
jams. The rest of the gastronomic riches
to be found in her tasteful boutique
come directly from small-scale Corsican farmers, each of whom she knows
personally.

Few of Pignas daily throng of visitors

get as far as A Casarella (hdaily midAprmid-Oct), at the villages southwestern
limit, even though its well signed from
the church square. On this lovely little
vine-shrouded terrace you can nibble

on a tapa or two, sip fresh organic fruit

juices and spoon down homemade ice
cream.
MUSICAL EVENTS // MUSIC
IN THE MOST INTIMATE OF
SETTINGS

Year-round musical events are organised

by Festivoce (%04 95 61 73 13; www.casa-musicale
.org/festivoce, in French). The major annual happening is a series of recitals in early July in
the villages bijou auditorium (maximum
capacity: 120).
CASA MUSICALE //
FINE DINING WITH A MUSICAL
THEME

Located in the sterling hotel of the same

name (p245), this equally individual
restaurant (%04 95 61 76 57; www
.casa-musicale.org, in French; mains 16-21, menu
19; hdaily Feb-Dec) is a delightful place to

dine, whether youre out on the terrace

overlooking the plain or down in the
barrel-vaulted interior, whose walls are
hung with musical instruments of all
kinds and shapes. Advance reservations
are essential in summer.

WORTH A TRIP

If youre travelling the N1197 between le Rousse and Ponte Leccia, build in a detour to
browse the cutesy hamlet of Lama. Clinging to a rocky spur, with Monte Astu (1535m)
rearing above, its an impressive example of how a village on the skids can redefine and
revitalise itself. Nowadays its confident and prosperous looking, and almost every building, from humble cottages to fine bourgeois mansions and Italianate palazzi, seems to
have been painted. Bright flowers are everywhere, and the town receives essential services: the post oce again functions, a van provides a mobile grocery service, the baker
calls by every day except Monday, and the greengrocer and butcher drop in on Friday.
Theres even an open-air swimming pool.
For further details and for information on walks in the area, visit the tourist office (%04 95 48 23 90; www.vacancesalama.com; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Jun-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-5pm
Mon-Fri Oct-May), which also has a long list of attractive gtes that can be reserved via its
website.

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

A QUIET TERRACE // A TINY

RETREAT FROM THE MADDING
CROWD

79

80

LA BALAGNE INTERIOR

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

U PALAZZU // EXQUISITE
GOURMET DINING IN A RUSTIC
SETTING

DRIVING TOUR

Set in a converted olive mill, this independently run restaurant (%04 95 35 16 47;
mains 30, menu 52; hApr-Oct, closed Wed except
Jul & Aug) is aliated to the magnificent

top-end hotel of the same name (p245).

Savour the staggering view from its
terrace, or enjoy the stone paving and
heavy wooden beams of the interior. For
something lighter at lunchtime, select
from the range of salads and cold cuts
(14 to 25).

Distance: 90km
Duration: one day
Head eastward from le Rousse along
the N197 and, after 7km, turn right for
Belgodre. Its square fulcrum of the
village with its fountain, war memorial,
a couple of cafes and a church could
stand in for many a Balagne village.
For a wonderful panorama of the olive
groves and meadows of the Valle du
Prato and the coast beyond, go through
an arch between the two cafes and walk
0
0

INLAND FROM LE ROUSSE

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

0
!

4 km

Ligurian Sea

le Rousse

\
#

N197

N197

N197

\
#

Corbara

Monticello

\
#

D151

Barrage
de Codole

D551

\ Sant'Antonino
#

Va
ll

666
666
666
Belgodre

\
#

0
N197

0
D13

D363

rato
uP

di-Balagna

Pigna #
\

\
#
Aregno D151

D63

ed

\ Santa-Reparata#

2 miles

\
Cateri #

D71

D151

\ Speloncato
#

0
D71

Pioggiola

Col de la
Battaglia

D963

\
#

\
#

D63

Feliceto
\ Zilia
#

0
D963

San
Parteo
$

\
#

OlmiCappella
To Fort de
Tartagine-Melaja
(10km)

Muro #
\
\ Lunghignano
#

0
D463

Vallica

\
#

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

steeply uphill to the scant remains of an

old fort.
Continuing along the N197, turn right
after another 7km onto the D963. As it
traverses the lonely heights, you stand a
good chance of spotting bearded vultures,
golden eagles and red kites planing above.
In Olmi-Cappella, scarcely bigger than
its name, La Balagnes first secondaryschool building now serves as town hall,
post oce and an essential stop for
walkers tourist oce (%04 95 47 22 06;
h9-11.45am & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri Apr-Jun, Sep &
Oct, 9-11.45am & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat
Jul & Aug). It carries seven sheets (1 each)

81

tion onto the D71 to reach Feliceto and

the cellars of Domaine Renucci (%04 95 61
71 08; www.domaine-renucci.com, in French; h10amnoon & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat mid-AprSep), which pro-

duces a range of great AOC wines from its

vineyards in the valley below.
Continuing along the D71, fork right
after 8km onto the D151 for the hilltop
village of SantAntonino (490m). One
of the prettiest villages in the Balagne, its
also one of the most visited and can be
hideously crowded in high summer. You
can avoid the steep ascent to the top of
the village by hiring a donkey (10; every
30 minutes from 3.30pm June to August).
Climb to the top of the cobbled streets,
bordered by shops selling everything from
quality goods to gewgaws (its not only
the tourists who get milked you can
even buy asses-milk soap), for ever-more
impressive views. Back at the car park,
stop by the vaulted cellar of Clos Antonini
(hApr-Oct), noted as much for its citrus juices as its wines, and relish a refreshing glass
of freshly squeezed lemon juice trickled
over ice. Alternatively, try the astringent
cocktail of Olivier Antoninis own white
wine mixed with a dash of lemon juice.
Returning to the D151, turn right. In
the village of Aregno, youll spot glise de
la Trinit, standing out within the village
cemetery. Built in the two-tone Pisan Romanesque style, its a reminder of the distant days when Pisa, not Genoa or Paris,
controlled the islands destiny. Among
the engaging basalt figurines adorning the
facade, note the little fellow beneath the
pediment, picking a thorn from his foot.
From Aregno, continue along the
D151 to the junction with the N197, and
turn right to return to le Rousse. En
route, if you still have time in hand, you
could drop into Corbara or Pigna; the
latter is best seen towards the end of the
day, once the summer crowds have left.

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

that describe in detail walks of 3km to

11km; each sheet has an explicit 1:25,000
map. For nibbles en route, call by Biscuiterie Casanova (%04 95 61 91 76), 200m
below the church. In existence for over a
century, it turns out 13 varieties of biscuit
using traditional Corsican recipes.
Around 3km beyond the village, turn
sharp right onto the D63, signed Pioggiola.
(Alternatively, if time allows, you can
continue to the end of the D63, deep in the
dramatic Fort de Tartagine-Melaja.) At
the Col de la Battaglia (1099m), pause for
a drink on the terrace of La Merendella.
Few buvettes (drink stands) can boast such
a view, looking down upon Speloncato,
the reservoir behind Barrage de Codole
and the long sweep of coastline beyond.
Savour it from the terrace, or drop down
to the orientation table just below to pick
out the features and, if the winds in the
right direction, spot a hang-glider or two
riding the thermals above the coastal plain.
A steep, twisting 7km descent brings
you to Speloncato (Spiluncatu; 600m),
which owes its name to the nearby caves
(e spelunche in Corsican), and its charm to
the little streets densely packed with stone
houses. Continue through the village towards le Rousse and turn left at a T-junc-

LA BALAGNE INTERIOR

THE WEST COAST

3 PERFECT DAYS
DAY 1 // TWO WORLD HERITAGE SITES

In Porto, rise early to savour a heart-stopping panorama of Les Calanques (p94)

before the crowds arrive. Back in town, sip your morning coee on the terrace of Le
Palmier (p89) for a fine view of the next venue, the little harbours Genoese tower
(p89). Lunch light, then take an afternoon boat trip to the Rserve Naturelle de Scandola (opposite). Back at base, drive to Htel Les Roches Rouges (p96) for a magnificent sunset view of Les Calanques from its terrace, then retreat to the restaurant for a
gourmet dinner.
DAY 2 // IN NAPOLONS BOOTSTEPS

Memories of Napolon abound in Ajaccio, his birthplace. Spend the morning visiting
Maison Bonaparte (p102), Muse A Bandera (p102) and the resplendent Salon Napolonien (p102). Lunch has to be in the belle poque dining room of Le Grand Caf
Napolon (p104); to walk it o, drive out to Pointe de la Parata (p106) for an easy,
breezy stroll along the headland. After dark, head for Le Spago (p104) for a light dinner in a contemporary setting.
DAY 3 // INLAND EXERCISE

Head up and inland, where its greener and cooler. Take the shaded, signed path into
the spectacular Gorges de Spelunca (p92), which leads, via a Genoese bridge, to the
village of visa (p91). Lunch on exclusively local produce at A Trmula (p93) and
pick up some calorie-rich snack food at the delicatessen next door. Then take the easy
walking route that leads from visa to the Cascades dAtone (p92), where you can
take an invigorating plunge into a freshwater pool.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TRANSPORT
See p105 for transport links from Ajaccio.
BUS // Autocars Ceccaldi (%04 95 22 41 99;
www.autocars-ceccaldi.com, in French) runs two buses
daily between Porto and Ajaccio, calling by Piana, Cargse
and Sagone. It also connects Ajaccio with visa one to
three times daily, and runs between Porto and Calvi daily
between mid-May and September. Between July and midSeptember, Autocars Mordiconi (%04 95 48 00
04) runs one bus per day Monday to Saturday on the route
between Porto and Corte via visa and Calacuccia.

GOLFE DE
PORTO
Defined by the Rserve Naturelle de
Scandola at the tip of its northern
arm and the slender finger of Capu
Rossu at its southern limit, the coastline of the Golfe de Porto is a tumble of steep cliffs that shelter small,
enchanting coves.

PORTO

83

town makes a great base for exploring

the mountainous interior, plus the two
Unesco World Heritage Sites of Les
Calanques and the Rserve Naturelle de
Scandola.
Theres no town hall, no church, none
of the usual trappings and symbols of a
town. Only the stout Genoese tower recalls the days when Porto was a harbour
for todays sleepy inland village of Ota.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04

95 26 10 55; www.porto-tourisme.com; place de la

Marine; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat Apr & May, 9am-7pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-7pm Mon-Sat
Oct-Mar) Sells the excellent Hikes & Walks in the Area of
Porto (2.50).

EXPLORING PORTO
BOAT TRIP TO THE RSERVE
NATURELLE DE SCANDOLA //
SPECTACULAR SEA-LEVEL
PERSPECTIVES OF A WORLD
HERITAGE SITE

Theres no vehicle access or footpath

that leads into the magnificent, protected
Scandola nature reserve, so the only way
to get up close is by sea. Boats visit from
other west-coast ports (see below)
(Continued on page p88)

BY BOAT TO THE RSERVE NATURELLE DE SCANDOLA

Boats visit the Rserve Naturelle de Scandola from all the west-coast ports. If Porto is on
your itinerary, make the sea trip from there (see above); its the closest to this spectacular
nature reserve and you have a wider choice of craft. To the north, Colombo Line boats
(p66) sail from Calvi. From the south, you have several choices:

Croisires Grand Bleu (%04 95 26 40 24; www.croisieresgrandbleu.com, in French; rue Marbeuf )

A local company operating from Cargse.

Dcouvertes Naturelles (%04 95 73 12 66; www.decouvertes-naturelles.net, in French) Sailings

from Ajaccio, Porticcio and Propriano.

Nave Va (%04 95 28 02 66; www.naveva.com). The biggest player. Operates from Cargse,
Sagone, Ajaccio and Porticcio.

THE WEST COAST

pop 400
Backed by sheer pink clis tumbling
into a turquoise sea, Porto has a setting
thats simply superb. This little holiday

GOLFE DE PORTO

p83

ques
Calan
Les

Golfe de
Porto
]

Ota

\
#

Porto

Gorges de
Spelunca

#
\ Partinello

Plage
" du Pro
3

D81

" Plage
3
d'Arone

D181

Renno

ne
mo
\
Lopigna #
Lia

\
Arbori #

\
#

D125

\ Rosazia
#

lo
Gu

Rezza

\
#

\
#

\ Orto
#

Lac de Creno k
\
ccia #

36

82

69

49

14

31

52

34

21
45

Cruzzin

p95

p99

Wa k the Sentier Mu etier, way

above Les Ca anques

SENTIER MULETIER

Parc Naturel Rgional

de la Corse

10 km
6 miles

0
!

Hike or take a donkey ride up to

ove y Lac de Creno

LAC DE CRENO

Note: Distances between destinations are approximate

Sagone

Porto

visa

D84
$ Capu di u
U
"
U
"
Fort de
Facciatu
Valdu Niellu
Fort
\ d'Atone
#
Castinacce
k

\
#
one #
\
Le Liam
\ D23 Guagno
#
Murzo
les Bains
\Muna
#

visa
\
#
rto

\
Vico #

#
\ Sagone

D70

I Cinque
Frati
Calasima #
\
\
#
Albertacce
Col de Verghio
Niolo Golo
W
Le

HAUTECORSE

Po
D84
U
"
$
Marine #
\
#
\
de Ficajola Piana Fort de Capu
Marignana
d'Ortu
Piana

Capo
Senino

Carg e ]

Take a boat trip to the spectacu ar

Rserve Nature e de Scando a

RSERVE NATURELLE
DE SCANDOLA

Capo
Rossu

Muchillina

D 1
le Gargalo
Naturelle
le de Scandola
\ Girolat
#
Garganellu Golfe de
Punta Girolata W Col
de la Croix

Rserve

Nera
Punta

Drink in the stirring panorama

from this pass

Cargse

cio
Aj

Ligurian
Sea

ac

DISTANCE CHART (KM)

s
rg
Ca

p91

isa

COL DE LA CROIX

0
0

THE WEST COAST

ne

rto

THE WEST COAST

T H E W E S T C OA S T

ag
o

Po

84
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

p100

Ajaccio ^
#

Tavaco

#
\

N194

D81

D161

N193

#
\

D1

D3

D1

N193

1 Campo dell Oro

"

#
\

#
Poggiare \

#
\

#
\

# Coro
\

D155

0
0

# Acelasca
\
D55
U
"
Fort de
Chiavari W Col de
D55
Gradello

de
Calzola

\ Pont
#

D302

0
0

3
" Plage de La Viva
N196
#
\
Porticcio D302
Golfe
d'Ajaccio
Plage
Col de
# Molini
W Belle Valle
d'Agosta 3
" \
#
Isolella \
# Cruciata
\
# Pietrosella
\

Pointe
Castagne

#
\

na
avo

Gr

D27

#
C

#
\

Aullne

D69

#
\

Zicavo

p107

Drive the ength of the itt efrequented Va e du Prune i

VALLE DU PRUNELLI

Haut
Taravo

#
\

Zevaco

p99

Exp ore this deserted vi age for

a taste of mountain ife

MUNA

Bocognano

Petr Bicch no
C de SteE
che
#
\

Ste-Marie
icch

#
\

D27

0
0

Cuttoli
0
Basteli
vona
Corticchiato
Afa0
0
ra 0

Tolla
nelli
Ocana
Pru
du

0
e

l
Plage du
nelli

Ricanto
Pru Val 0
0
3
Bastelicaccia

Sant Andra
d'Orcino

#
\

D4

T H E W E S T C OA S T

THE WEST COAST

Ajaccio is a drivers nightmare. Leave your vehic e at Quai des Torpi eurs and take the free shutt e
bus into town, or e se drop it at one of the arge quayside car parks. ts kinder to Porto not to add
to the car congestion, and theres usua y p enty of car-parking room just south of the harbour. Bus
services are neg igib e to nonexistent up the coast. n and, the train ride from Ajaccio to Bastia, Ca vi
or e Rousse is a scenic de ight.

GETTING AROUND

Mediterranean Sea

Linger in Ajaccios sp endid

Muse Fesch

AJACCIO

les Sanguinaires

D11B

D381

des Sa nguinai r es
Rte

Golfe
de Lava

Anse de
Minaccia

Pointe de
la Parata

p96

Spraw on the fine sand of this

beautifu beach

PLAGE DARONE

Golfe
de Liscia

#
\

Golfe de
Sagone

D125

o
Ta
ra

D81

0
0

Tiuccia

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
85

86

T H E W E S T C OA S T G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

THE WEST COAST

GETTING STARTED
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

Roller-coaster your way along Corsicas straggling west

coast for plunging clis, staggering views and glorious
coastal driving. Its three gulfs of Porto, Sagone and
Ajaccio are edged by golden beaches and aquamarine
waters. The only town, Ajaccio, has a rich Napolonic
heritage and merits at least a couple of days. You can
happily spend a week in tiny Porto, the best base for
walking, boating and enjoying a pair of World Heritage Sites: the Rserve Naturelle de Scandola, with its
unique flora and fauna, and the teetering columns and
giant boulders of Les Calanques. Inland, mountain
hamlets, and pine, beech and chestnut forests are a
world away from the coastal fleshpots.
TOP EXCURSIONS
THE WEST COAST

COL DE VERGHIO TO THE BERGERIES DE RADULE

A shortish upland walk from a mountain pass to a shepherds hut (p93).

GORGES DE SPELUNCA

A gentle walk to a Genoese bridge allows you to delve into these spectacular gorges;
theres also a chance for a freshwater swim en route (p92).
HAUT TARAVO

A spectacular hinterland drive with a choice of two great mountain restaurants for
lunch (p109).
LES SANGUINAIRES

A gentle boat trip to oshore islets, complete with aperitif and swim (p102).
VALLE DU PRUNELLI

A drive along a spectacular gorge, plus lakeside relaxation and heart-stopping panoramas (p107).
LE SENTIER MULETIER

A splendid breezy walk high above the clis of Les Calanques and its crowds (p95).

03-westcoast-cor5.indd 86

14/09/2012 10:57:37 AM

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

GETTING AWAY
FROM IT ALL
You can be alone on the coast in summer
if youre prepared to seek out one of the
multitude of small coves, which may require
a scramble. For better chances of solitude,
simply head inland, up and into the woods.

Hire a boat or paddle your own

canoe Porto, in particular, offers plenty
of scope for independent nosing along
the coast (p89)

T H E W E S T C OA S T G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

TOP EATING
EXPERIENCES
LE MAQUIS

Delightful food and a cheeseboard that

spills over (p90)
LE GRAND CAF NAPOLON

Refined dining in a belle poque ballroom (p104)

U TARAVU

Sentier des Muletiers Gaze down

Home-cured charcuterie and cheeses,

plus farm-raised lamb (p110)

upon Les Calanques from this little-hiked

former mule track (p95)

Smart harbourside dining (p98)

Lac de Creno Hike or bounce on the

back of a donkey to this hidden mountain lake (p99)

TOP INLAND
EXPERIENCES
FORT DATONE

LANCURA
HTEL LES ROCHES ROUGES

Gourmet dishes and a panoramic view

(p96)
A TRMULA

Meals made from home-grown and local

produce (p93)

RESOURCES

Destination Ouest-Corse (www

.destination-ouest-corse.net) Tourist informa-

Ota Porto (www.porto-tourisme.com) Tourist

A DRIVE TO THE ABANDONED

TOWN OF MUNA

A spectacular, thrilling ascent and a roam

around a deserted village (p99)

tion for the west coast

office site covering the Golfe de Porto
and inland

LAC DE CRENO

A lovely upland lake, only accessible on

foot or, in season, by pony (p99)
LAC DE TOLLA IN THE VALLE
DU PRUNELLI

Paradise for a picnic, followed by a swim

or kayak paddle through the lakes still
waters (p107)

Pays dAjaccio Tourist Office (www

.ajaccio-tourisme.com) Official site for visitors
to the Golfe dAjaccio and inland

Parc Naturel Rgional de la Corse

(PNRC; www.parc-naturel-corse.com, in French)
Website of the body that administers
much of inland Corsica

THE WEST COAST

Cool, green, tranquil CO2-sucking,

woodland where laricio pine and beech
shield you from the summer sun (p91)

87

88

GOLFE DE PORTO

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

71; www.portolinea.com, in French; tickets Htel Monte

Rosso), can nudge into coves and caves that

(Continued from page 83)

but leaving from Porto oers the shortest journey. Between April and October,
four companies sail to the base of its
clis, often taking in Les Calanques and
Girolata. Birdwatching (look out for puffins, cormorants and a colony of breeding ospreys) is at its richest until late
June. And your captains sure to point
out the strange seaweed that forms a thin
grey crust around the waters edge.
Smaller boats, such as the Mare Nostrum I and II of Porto Linea (%06 08 16 89

are denied to weightier craft. Other operators include Nave Va (%04 95 26 15 16; www
.naveva.com; tickets Htel le Cyrne), the biggest of
the companies with the largest boat, and
PassPartout (%06 75 99 13 15; tickets Restaurant
La Tour Gnoise), a newish player with an attractive small boat. Via Mare (%06 07 28
72 72; www.viamare-promenades.com; tickets Htel du
Golfe) along with Porto Linea, is one of the

most experienced of the operators.

Commentaries are only in French so
do pass by the tourist oce in advance
0
0

PORTO
A

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Tourist Office......................... 1 A3
1

EXPLORING PORTO
Centre de Plonge du Golfe de
Porto..................................2
Centre de Plonge du Golfe de
Porto................................. 3
Gnration Bleue................... 4
Genoese Tower...................... 5

A3
D4
A3
A3

THE WEST COAST

Le Palmier..............................6 A3
Mditerrane Porto Sub......... 7 A3
Nave Va.................................8 A2
Pass'Partout...........................9 A3
Patrick & Toussaint..............(see 7)
Porto Linea.......................... 10 A3
Via Mare.............................. 11 A3
GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
Bella Vista............................ 12
Le Maquis............................ 13
Le Robinson......................... 14
Le Romantique.....................15
U Pescador...........................16

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
Baobab................................17 A3
Hibiscus............................... 18 C3
ACCOMMODATION
Htel Colombo.................... 19 D3
Htel Restaurant Bella
Vista..............................(see 12)
M'Hotel Corsica...................20 B3

C3
C3
A3
A3
A3

TRANSPORT
Autocars Ceccaldi................ 21 D4
Autocars Mordiconi............. 22 A3
Porto Location..................... 23 D4
PARKING
Parking................................ 24 A3
Parking................................ 25 A3
Parking................................ 26 D4

D81

Golfe
de Porto

400 m
0.2 miles

5
6
3

10 11

17

1
15

9
14

12

7
Footbridge
4

22

Plage de
Porto

16

24

20

13

Porto

18

25

19

D124

Vata

21
23

D81

26
3

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

GOLFE DE PORTO

for a copy of its free pamphlet, Visit of

the Natural Reserve of Scandola by Sea.

ACCOMMODATION

PORTOS BEST PANORAMAS //

A TYPICAL CORSICAN
WATCHTOWER AND A SUPERB
SUNSET PANORAMA

Its essential to reserve both coastal and

inland hotels in July and August.
For our picks, see the separate
Accommodation chapter. Our favourites among the favoured include the
following:

For the best view in Porto, climb precisely 176 steps to the high point of the
little towns renovated 16th-century
Genoese tower (admission 2.50; h9am-7pm
Apr-Jun & Sep, 9am-9pm Jul & Aug). Inside, interpretive panels tell of the financing,
construction and functioning of these
watchtowers, and of the tough existence
of the torregiano, the tower watchman;
arm yourself at the reception kiosk with
the English brochure, which gives a full
translation. Seawards the views are magnificent; looking back youll appreciate
how tiny Porto really is.
For a sterling sunset view of the harbour and tower, install yourself on the
tight little terrace of Le Palmier and sip
a pastis or enjoy an ice cream as the daylight fades.

For exploration at your own pace, paddle your own canoe (from 10/20 per
hour/three hours) to Les Calanques
or put-put to Scandola in a motor
boat (from 75/115 per half-/full day).
Patrick & Toussaint (%06 81 41 70 03;
www.patrickettoussaint.com), among others,
rents motor boats, canoes and sea kayaks too.
WALKING // A GOOD GUIDE TO
HIKING AROUND PORTO

The Hikes & Walks in the Area of Porto

brochure (2.50) from the tourist oce
(p83) details 28 signed walks at all levels

For the last word in caring luxury,

head to Htel les Mouettes (p248)

Htel Marengop248 is a oneoff quirky, truly individual and

completely charming

For fresh air and organic country

cuisine, book into Maison dHte
Giargalo (p247)

High in the hills, Maison dHte

Chtelet de Campo (p248) is a
delightful chambres dhtes (B&B)

Htel Colombo (p246) is a bright

boutique-style hotel

of diculty. For longer treks, supplement this with the IGN Top 25 sheet
Porto & Calanche de Piana.
SNORKELLING // JOIN
THE DIVERS TO EXPLORE
UNDERWATER PORTO

Portos three diving outfits, all based

at the quay, oer snorkelling trips (15
including equipment) to choice spots
including the fringe of the Scandola
reserve. All oer introductory dives and
courses for beginners, too.
Centre de Plonge du Golfe de Porto
(%04 95 26 10 29, 06 84 24 49 20; www.plongeeporto
.com, in French; hEaster-Oct)
Gnration Bleue (%04 95 26 24 88, 06 07 43
21 28; www.generation-bleue.com; hMay-Oct)
Mditerrane Porto Sub (%04 95
26 10 27, 06 14 94 08 94; www.plongeecorse.fr;
hmid-AprSep)

THE WEST COAST

HIRING A BOAT OR CANOE //

DOING IT YOUR WAY ON THE
WATER

89

90

GOLFE DE PORTO

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
BELLA VISTA
%04 95 26 11 08; www.hotel-corse.com, in French;
rte de Calvi; mains around 25, menu 26; hdinner
Aprmid-Oct

You may get better views with your dinner elsewhere in this tiny town but nowhere will you find better fare. The menu
gourmand is creative and oers plenty
of choice. For something even more
original, order the house speciality, cabri
(grilled and lightly roasted suckling goat;
46 to 70), which serves two to three
people. Youll need to ask for it when
you reserve it takes a full 45 minutes to
prepare.
LE MAQUIS

THE WEST COAST

%04 95 26 12 19; www.hotel-lemaquis.com;

mains 20-29, menus 20-54; hlunch & dinner
mid-Febmid-Nov

Theres a cosy all-wood interior but, for

preference, reserve a table on the balcony, which has great views and candles
flickering all around. Service is friendly
and the foods a delight. Save a cranny
for the cheeseboard, which has around a
dozen dierent varieties, mostly nameless and all bought directly from Corsican dairies. For a special treat, opt for
the menu de la mer (54), which includes
ravioli stued with scallops and topped
with a sea-urchin sauce; grilled lobster;
and that cheeseboard.
LE ROMANTIQUE
%04 95 26 10 85; mains 16-24, menus 18-20;
hlunch & dinner mid-AprSep

With a terrace directly overlooking the

port, and tablecloths of soft Provenal
ochre and orange, its as romantic as
the name proclaims. Portions are ample
and the menu Corsica (20) is much
more varied than the usual restaurant set

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

menus. Choose, for example, the tourte

la mode Corse, slices of pie stued with
lonzu (tender smoked pork fillet), white
cheese and herbs.
U PESCADOR
%04 95 26 15 19; mains 10-15, menus 13.50-18;
hlunch & dinner May-Sep

Near the beach (with the sea just out of

sight, alas), the Fisherman does a quite
magnificent fish soup. Both the fish and
seafood (ah, the fresh lobster!) will have
been recently pulled from the Mediterranean by Porto fisherman Antoine Fieschi. If the restaurant is full (as it tends
to be), walk over to Le Robinson (%04 95
26 17 60; hlunch & dinner), equally simple and
also oering Monsieur Fieschis fresh
fish, at comparable prices.

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
BAOBAB

The jazzy hats, bags, T-shirts and beach

mats at this colourful boutique are commissioned directly from local producers
in Madagascar.
HIBISCUS

rte de La Marine

This great little delicatessen specialises

in richly scented sausages, charcuterie
and other Corsican gastronomic delights. Its taster plate makes for a great
snack.

TRANSPORT
CAR & SCOOTER // Porto Location (%04
95 26 10 13) hires out cars (from 58 per day) and scooters (from 46).
PARKING // Driving through Porto can be a slow
shue. Its better to leave your car in the parking area
behind the beach and walk over the footbridge.
BICYCLE // Porto Location (%04 95 26 10 13)
also rents mountain bikes (from 15 per day).

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

NORTH OF PORTO
COL DE LA CROIX (BOCCA A
CROCE) // SPLENDID VIEWS AND
AN OPTIONAL HIKE

At this col (pass), 22km north of Porto on

the D81, theres a perfectly placed buvette
(drinks stand), and a stirring panorama
southward to the Golfe de Porto Piana
perched high on its far shore, Portos fort
just poking out and northward to the
rosy crags of the Rserve Naturelle de
Scandola. See below for details of a hike
from the pass to Girolata.
GIROLATA (GHJIRULATU) //
POSTCARD-PRETTY HAMLET
REACHED ONLY BY BOAT OR ON
FOOT

FORT DATONE
In the 17th century, the Genoese forged
a path through this thick, tangled woodland to Sagone, from where the forest
timber was transported to the shipyards
of Genoa. There, the tall, straight lariciopine trunks, some 60m in height, were
fashioned into beams, masts and crosspieces for the powerful Genoese navy,
long the masters of the Mediterranean.

91

downhill through dense maquis. After

about 15 minutes, theres a welcome
spring and trough, ideal for dunking your head. Twenty minutes or so
later, the path curls around pebbly
Tuara cove. From here, two paths
thread through the maquis; take the
one signed Ghjirulatu. Theres a stunning view over the village and its bay as
the trail meets the Mare e Monti Nord
route after some 30 minutes. Descending to Girolata, which has plenty of
choices for lunch or a drink, takes a
further 30 minutes.
To return, cross back over Girolatas
beach, then take the signed Sentier du
Facteur option, which follows the line of
the coast (with its share of rocky ups and
downs) as far as the Tuara cove. Allow
3 to four hours for the round trip.

INLAND FROM PORTO

The D84 snakes above the plunging Gorges de Spelunca to take in visa and pass
through the Fort dAtone, a 1670 hectare woodland. Greener and cooler than
the coast, its predominantly composed
of laricio pines and beech trees, as well
as Mediterranean pines, firs and larches.
Beyond the Col de Verghio, 34km from
Porto, stretches the Valle du Niolo.

EXPLORING INLAND FROM

PORTO
VISA // THE CHESTNUT
VILLAGE

The lively little village of visa, between

the Gorges de Spelunca and the Fort
dAtone, is popular with walkers due
its location at the junction of the Mare a
Mare Nord and Mare e Monti Nord trails.
Its more-general fame arises from
its annual chestnut harvests. Although
the harvests are now mere gleanings

THE WEST COAST

Its the journey that counts whether its

by boat from Porto and other coastal resorts or on foot from the Col de la Croix.
From a distance, Girolata, set within a
horseshoe-shaped bay and guarded by a
well-preserved Genoese fort, is stunning.
Close up, it can be overcrowded in July
and August, with an armada of sightseeing boats, on their way to or from the
Rserve Naturelle de Scandola disgorging their passengers.
To walk here from Col de la Croix
(above), follow the orange blazes of the
Sentier du Facteur (Postmans Path)

GOLFE DE PORTO

92

GOLFE DE PORTO

GUY LE FACTEUR
The Sentier du Facteur (Postmans Path)
is named after the postman Guy Ceccaldi, a strapping ex-legionnaire with a
flowing white beard who recently retired.
In his prime, Guy the Postman would
regularly walk to Girolata and back,
bringing not only the mail but news of
the outside world as well.

compared with the bumper years of the

19th century, they still pull in more than
1000 tonnes of chestnuts each year, most
of which is ground into chestnut flour.
visa chestnuts even have their own appellation, and the village holds La Fte
du Marron, a chestnut festival thats
celebrated every November.

THE WEST COAST

WALKING INTO THE GORGES

DE SPELUNCA // A TASTE OF A
SPECTACULAR CANYON

Until the D84 was hacked from the

mountain, this former mule track, partly
cobbled, was the only link between the
villages of Ota and visa. It runs along
the steep sides of the Spelunca canyon
beneath huge, humbling clis.
To get to the trailhead, leave Porto by
the D84 (direction visa). After about
10km, turn left onto the D124 and,
2.2km from the junction, park your vehicle by a double-arched road bridge; the
trail, blazed in orange and punctuated by
interpretive panels in French, is signed
Spelunca beside the bridge. The rocky
path soon begins to climb fairly steeply
up the western flank of the valley, but
oak, ash and boxwood provide plenty
of shade. After around 30 minutes, you
reach Ponte Zaglia, a Genoese-style
bridge slung across a tributary of the
river Porto in 1798. Nearby, you can refresh yourself in the inviting rock pools.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Allow between an hour and 1 hours to

complete this easy there-and-back walk.
For a more stretching hike, you can
continue beyond Ponte Zaglia as far
as visa. The shaded path ascends the
steep hillside by a series of switchbacks,
emerging onto the D84 beside the village cemetery. For this variant, count
on around four hours for the round trip
from the road bridge.
Upon your return, a three-minute
walk up the D124 brings you to Ponte
Pianella (marked Ponte Vecchju on
some maps), another Genoese bridge.
MEETING THE COCHON
COUREUR // ENCOUNTER THE
ROAMING CORSICAN PIG

It can happen in many places around

the island. But you stand a particularly
good chance of a close encounter of the
porcine kind at any of the hundred and
one bends in the D84 as it mounts from
visa to Col de Verghio. On this trip we
happened across a big black sow with
her 11 scurrying piglets, plus an aunt of
theirs who tried her best to scrabble into
the back seat of the car.
CASCADES DATONE // WALK
TO WATERFALLS AND NATURAL
POOLS

As you rise higher from visa on the D84,

look out after 3km for a sign for this tumble of waterfalls and naturally scoopedout basins that serve as miniature swimming pools; theyre only about 10 minutes
o the road along a pleasant footpath. In
high summer, arrive early or late in the
day, since they can be very crowded.
Or you can also walk up to the falls
from visa, following a section of the
Mare a Mare Nord long-distance trail,
the Chemin des Chtaigniers (Chestnut
Grove Route). This easy two- to 2-hour

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

(7km) out-and-back walk is marked in

orange, with 13 interpretive panels (in
French) that explain chestnut farming,
once a mainstay of the local economy.
This walk begins beside Modern Bar,
near visas eastern end. For the first 45
minutes it follows a sandy lane between
chestnut groves, where Mediterranean
and laricio pine are gradually reasserting
themselves. After the trail intersects with
the D84, take the wide path that drops
gently to the Cascades dAtone, and paddle or plunge into their cooling waters.
WALKING FROM THE COL DE
VERGHIO (BOCCA DI VERGHJU) TO
THE BERGERIES DE RADULE //
UNDEMANDING MOUNTAIN
WALK TO A SHEPHERDS HUT

93

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
A TRMULA // VISA
%04 95 26 24 39; mains 14; hlunch & dinner

So many Corsican eateries proclaim their

use of local products, but few name their
providers on the menu. Mathieu and
Patricia Ceccaldi list all their small-scale
Corsican producers, whose goods supplement their own home-grown fruit and
vegetables, potted meats, charcuterie and
chestnut flour. Its small, so youll need to
reserve ask for a table on the tiny balcony overlooking the valley. Afterwards,
you can pick up some prime produce
from their delicatessen, right next door.
LA CHTAIGNERAIE // VISA
%04 95 26 24 47; www.hotel-la-chataigneraie
.com, in French; mains 12-19; hlunch & dinner
mid-Aprmid-Oct

The restaurant of this appealing hotel

(p247) deserves a visit for its own sake.
For a not-so-light lunch, opt for its

PIGS ON THE RUN

The only wild pigs now left in Corsica are
wild boar; the porkers you see beside
or serenely squatting in the middle of
mountain roads are domestic animals
known as cochons coureurs (free-ranging
pigs). It is estimated that there are 15,000
free-ranging pigs in Haute-Corse and
30,000 in Corse-du-Sud and every last
animal belongs to someone.
The finest Corsican pork derives its
flavour from the pigs diet of acorns
and chestnuts. The charcuterie produced in Corsica is excellent, though
you should be aware that some of the
specialities sold on the island with a
Made in Corsica tag are in fact made
from imported pork meat. See p231 for
more on Corsican charcuterie.

THE WEST COAST

Corsicas highest drivable pass, the Col

de Verghio (1467m) marks the boundary between Haute-Corse and Corsedu-Sud. A giant statue of Jesus in a long
cloak stands guard and, in summer, a
vendor of Corsican produce and drinks
is his constant companion.
This out-and-back walk, waymarked
in orange, takes o from behind the
statue of Jesus. Easy on both the eye
and body (allow about 1 hours for the
round trip), it threads at first through a
forest of chestnut and laricio pine, oering glorious views of the Valle du Niolo
and the dark stain of Calacuccias lake.
With the bergeries (shepherds huts)
already in sight, turn left at a T-junction
where the track meets the red and white
blazes of the GR20. In summer, a shepherd lives in this cluster of huts and sheep
pens. Arrive before 2pm and you can
enjoy his cheeses and a snack or drink.
Its well worth pushing onwards for
around 15 minutes to get to a shady spot
where a natural stone basin catches water
tumbling over a ladder of small falls.

GOLFE DE PORTO

94

GOLFE DE PORTO

mixed platter of Corsican meats (12).

For something even more substantial, try
the chefs version of saltimbocca, made
with chunks of tender veal and Brocciu
(goats- or ewes-milk cheese), or the
filet de porc aux cpes et chtaignes (fillet
of pork with chestnuts and cpe mushrooms). The homemade desserts too are
winners, all.

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
NICOLE & PASCAL SANTUCCI
%04 95 26 25 32; Castinacce; hlunch & dinner

The Santuccis sell their home produce at

country fairs and from their tiny, tasteful shop, set beside the D70, just beyond
Castinacce. Everything on sale comes
from their farm; Nicole bakes the cakes
and biscuits and bottles the fruit, while
Pascal cures the charcuterie and mills the
chestnut flour. Stop by for a drink on the
terrace and see if you can resist

THE WEST COAST

LES CALANQUES
(LES CALANCHES)
Les Calanques, almost sheer and more
than 400m high, rear up above the sea in
teetering columns, towers and irregularly
shaped boulders of pink, ochre and ginger. As you sway around switchback after
switchback on the D81 between Porto
and Piana, one breathtaking vista follows
another.
The writer Guy de Maupassant, who
visited Corsica in 1880, likened these
strange geological formations to some
monstrous race, a nightmare menagerie,
petrified by some profligate god. More
prosaically, this giant granite jumble, a
World Heritage Site, was formed by the
erosion of wind and sea.
For the full technicolour experience,
Les Calanques need to be savoured on
foot ideally in the relative coolness of

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

DEVILS WORK
Les Calanques are the stu of legend.
Way before Guy de Maupassants flight
of fancy, local folklore had it that they
were fashioned in a tantrum by the devil
himself, who was enraged by a shepherdess who had spurned him. If you
squint and apply a little imagination of
your own, you can make out her petrified
form, her husband, their dog and other
fantastic forms a giants head, eagle,
dromedary and even a mitred bishop.

early morning, before the crowds arrive, or at sunset, when the rocks almost
glow with muted copper tones. The
tourist oce in Piana (opposite) has a
useful leaflet, Piana: Sentiers de Randonnes (1), which details six walks
within the area.
If youre driving, theres very limited
roadside parking; the early car gets the
space. Les Calanques are an easy walk
from Piana, which has more-ample parking facilities, but do be wary of trac on
the tight bends.
For a unique sea-level perspective,
take a boat tour (p83) or hire your own
craft (p89).
WALKING TO THE CHTEAU
FORT // AN OUT-AND-BACK
STROLL TO A STAGGERING
PANORAMA

Park near the Tte de Chien (Dogs

Head), a distinctively shaped rock
thats signposted on a large bend in
the D81, 3.5km east of Piana. Set out
early to avoid the crowds that throng
this accessible trail, and avoid wearing
sandals; the route is rocky and steep in
places. Your goal, reached after 20 to
30 minutes, is a broad natural platform
known as the Chteau Fort (Fortress),

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

from where the view over the Golfe de

Porto and the inlets of Les Calanques is
stunning.
LE SENTIER MULETIER //
A WALK THAT OVERLOOKS LES
CALANQUES

PIANA & AROUND

pop 450
Peering down over the Golfe de Porto
from its small plateau, Piana makes a
seductive alternative to Porto, especially
if youre after quietness (guaranteed,
even in high summer, once the days
through-trac has rumbled on) and a
little beach inactivity (Plage dArone,
the areas finest, is a spectacular 12km
drive away).

95

Piana has a history of silence. In the

15th century Piana was ruled by the hotheaded seigneurs de Leca, who governed
a vast area on the west coast of the island.
Rebelling against Genoa, they and the
entire male population were massacred. The Genoese then banned anyone
from living in Piana, which only came
to life again in the 18th century, once
Genoese influence on the island was on
the wane.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04

95 27 84 42; www.sipiana.com; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri,

9am-noon Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, 8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4pm
Mon-Fri Oct-May) Set back from the main road, beside
the post oce.

EXPLORING PIANA &

AROUND
PIANAS OLD QUARTER // A
LOOK AROUND THE VILLAGE

To enjoy old Piana, explore the streets

behind glise Ste-Marie, which are all
bordered by attractive renovated stone
houses. On the facades of too many
dwellings, however, the lovely original
stonework is masked by a patina of
cement.
WALKING CAPU ROSSU
(CAPO ROSSO) // HIKING A
SLIM PROMONTORY WITH
CONSISTENTLY MAGNIFICENT
SEASCAPES

To get to the start of the trail along

Capu Rosso, take the D824 (signed
Plage dArone) out of Piana, follow it
for 6km and park below a snack bar at
a bend where the road begins to dip.
From here, you can clearly make out
the silhouette of your goal, the Tour de
Turghiu.

THE WEST COAST

To reach the start of this walk, whose

length you can vary at will (even half an
hour will leave you with glorious images
burned on the retinas), leave the D81 at
the sign Stade and Sentier de Randonne, 1.6km east of Piana, and drop your
vehicle in the car park beside a dusty
football pitch.
At a second sign, Ancien Chemin de
Piana Ota, follow this former mule
trail, which was the only link between
Piana and Ota until the D81 was built in
1850. After about 15 minutes, it emerges
onto a glorious flat corniche, constructed
with the sweat of human labour, that
snakes around the hillside, giving glorious views of Les Calanques.
If youre up here for the views, continue until the trail starts to descend
steeply, then retrace your steps. For more
of a workout, drop with the track until
it meets the D81 beside a small shrine to
the Virgin Mary, then head back.
The full out-and-back walk takes
around 1 hours.

GOLFE DE PORTO

96

GOLFE DE PORTO

The path descends steadily through

scrub to pass the first of several ruined
bergeries, set on the left after around 20
minutes. About an hour out, it meets a
restored bergerie with a pink-tiled roof
and traces of a circular threshing floor.
Here, turn right (northward) to tackle
the steep climb to the tower, which at
first takes a tightly zigzagging path, then
follows cairns. After some 30 minutes
of ascent, flop down at the base of the
Tour de Turghiu, where theres a sheer
300m drop to the sea and heart-stopping
views of the Golfe de Porto and Golfe de
Sagone.
Make sure you set out early, take
plenty of water and wear a hat, since
theres scarcely a square centimetre of
shade. Allow three to 3 hours for the
round trip.

THE WEST COAST

MARINE DE FICAJOLA //
HYPERSTEEP DESCENT
PROVIDING TERRIFIC VIEWS OF
LES CALANQUES

From the church in Piana, follow the

D824 towards the Plage dArone for
1km, then turn right onto the narrow
D624 for a white-knuckle 4km descent
through rocky red mountains with stunning views over Les Calanques. Leave
your vehicle at the end of the road and
follow the path for about 10 minutes
to this tiny cove, where lobster-fishing
boats once used to take shelter. Youre
here for the splendour of the ride down,
though the pocket of beach can get
very crowded in high summer.
PLAGE DARONE // GORGEOUS
CRESCENT-SHAPED STRAND OF
FINE SAND

Plage dArone, as a small monument will

tell you, has a special place in Corsican
history; it was here in 1943 that the first

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

weapons for the Corsican resistance arrived aboard the submarine Casabianca.
The waters limpid, the sand will trickle
through your toes and the beach is a
good deal less crowded than those of
most west-coast resorts.
To get here, follow the D824 for 12km
until it peters out at the beach. The ridge
drive itself is well worth the journey: it
cuts through wild mountain scenery offering splendid views over the Golfe de
Porto.

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
CAF DE LA PLAGE //
PLAGE DARONE
%04 95 20 17 27; pizzas 9-13.50, mains 20-25;
hlunch & dinner Apr-Sep

This cafe has a delightful vine-shaded

terrace thats just a pebbles throw from
the beach. For the freshest of fish, check
out that days catch, chalked up on the
blackboard there were eight varieties on the day we passed and all were
sourced from a local fisherman. If you
need to work o lunch, it conveniently
hires out sea kayaks and pedalos.
HTEL LES ROCHES ROUGES //
PIANA
%04 95 27 81 81; mains 22-25, menus 32-40;
%lunch & dinner

At the restaurant of this splendid hotel

(p247), settle into a comfortable cane
armchair, and savour gourmet nouvelle
cuisine, magnificent decor (the frescos
are a Unesco-recognised monument)
and exceptional views of the gulf through
vast picture windows. Dishes are inventive, if small, and theres a good selection
of local wines, which are also available by
the half-bottle. The terrace, looking over
Les Calanques at sunset, must oer one
of the finest views on earth. Even if you
arent dining, do pause there for a drink.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LE CASANOVA // PIANA
%04 95 27 84 20; mains 9-20, menu 16.50; hlunch

& dinner Apr-Oct

No, not a philandering patron rather,

its the name of the friendly family
(Mum, Dad and two sons) who run this
bustling restaurant. Located in an attractive stone house whose terrace occupies
most of the square, Le Casanova serves
a menu Corse (16.50) that includes specialities prepared, like all its charcuterie,
by the village butcher. Alternatively, go
la carte and indulge in large wood-fired
pizzas (8.50 to 11.50) or the house
speciality, coquille St-Jacques au myrte
(scallops cooked in myrtle liqueur).

GOLFE DE
SAGONE
The Golfe de Sagone, where the hills
descend more gently to longer shallower beaches, is altogether softer
than the Golfe de Porto, its more
rugged northern neighbour.

CARGSE (CARGHJESE)

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04

95 26 41 31; www.cargese.net, in French; h9am-1pm

& 2-6pm Mon-Sat mid-Junmid-Sep, 9am-noon &
1-6pm Mon-Sat mid-Sepmid-Jun)

97

EXPLORING CARGSE
GREEK & LATIN CHURCHES //
MEMORIES OF GREEK
IMMIGRATION

Although Cargse is more renowned

for its beaches, the towns two decorative churches provide a pleasant cultural
interlude and an insight into the towns
Greek past. Some of the icons in glise
Catholique de Rite Grec (h9am-6pm) were
brought to the town by the original refugees and are fine examples of the art. The
present building dates from 1852, when
it replaced the original place of worship,
which was no longer large enough to accommodate the expanding congregation.
Like all Greek churches, its main features
are the richness of its ornamentation and
the delicacy of the portraits of the iconostasis, the traditional painted wooden
partition separating altar from nave.
More modern is the mural at the western
end depicting the fate of this tiny Greek
community.
No doubt a trifle envious of the Greek
communitys extravagant church, the
towns non-Greek community decided to
erect a rival Roman Catholic church, the
glise Latine Ste-Marie (h9am-6pm). It was
completed in 1828, although seven years
later God let them down and wind blew
the roof o. Theres an intriguing trompe
lil ceiling but, at the end of the day, the
churchs best feature is the view over the
gulf from the square at its west end.

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
A VOLTA
%06 19 55 11 84; mains around 15; h10am-11pm

Maymid-Sep

At the end of rue du Docteur Petrolacci

in the old town, A Volta will delight you.
The menu changes as the day progresses,
but the sweeping panorama from its broad

THE WEST COAST

pop 1100
This sleepy little town owes its origin to a
community of 730 Greeks, granted exile
here by Genoa in 1676 as they fled the
Ottoman Turks. Nowadays, the towns
charm lies in its quiet streets and the
gleaming white facades of its houses. The
best of its five beaches is Plage du Pro,
a long strand of pure-white sand located
1.5km north of town.

GOLFE DE SAGONE

98

GOLFE DE SAGONE

terrace remains constantly splendid. Decorated in soothing grey and silver, it oers
breakfasts, a copious and creative brunch,
and great la carte fare, including nine
inventive pastas, mains such as beef, fish
and scallop tartare, and a long, lip-smacking list of ice creams and sorbets.
LE CABANON DE CHARLOTTE

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

the rich variety of cheeses, displayed pellmell in the window, are all from the milk
of the owners ewes? In the hills behind
Cargse, Jean-Xavier Capodimacci tends
his flocks while Ruiz, his wife, runs their
delicatessen, a richly scented emporium
with festoons of sausages, hams, local
wines and liqueurs, jams, herbs and
conserves.

%06 81 23 66 93; mains 13-26, menus 16-21;

hlunch & dinner Apr-Oct

This appealing choice oers sophisticated dining in an intimate environment at

the end of the main jetty. Seating is made
from solid teak, and fish dishes, subtly
prepared, are the very freshest. Service is
with a smile.
U RASAGHIU
%04 95 26 48 60; mains 16-22, menus 15-23;

THE WEST COAST

hlunch & dinner Mar-Oct

Youll love it or hate it. The white-suited

crooner with slicked-back hair entertains
diners three times weekly; choose Monday, Wednesday or Friday dinner for an
authentic French seaside experience, or
one of the other nights for quieter dining. Youll eat well on this vast quayside
terrace; fresh fish dishes are particularly
well prepared and come with tempting
garnishing.

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
A CAVAGNOLA

rue du Docteur Dragacci; h9am-7.30pm May-Sep

A stones throw from the tourist oce, A

Cavagnola carries a great range of Corsican delicacies. It also has a small terrace
where you can tuck into pizzas, salads,
sandwiches and paninis.
TERRA CORSA
%04 95 22 40 21; av Colonel Fieschi

Corsica abounds in shops selling local

specialities. But how many can claim that

SAGONE (SAONE)
pop 250
Driving southward to Sagone, the coast
becomes less craggy and the hills more
rounded and desiccated. The chief attraction of this thin strip of a town is its
beautiful, steeply shelving beach.
LANCURA // DELIGHTFUL
DINING BESIDE THE MARINA

Fresh fish, hauled in by a local fisherman,

arrives daily at LAncura (%04 95 28 04
93; mains 20-30; hlunch & dinner May-Sep), and
the restaurants delightful desserts are
all made on the spot. Despite the roughand-ready appearance of the exterior, its
a stylish little place with linen napkins,
pleasing modern tableware and a little
nook of a bar for sipping an aperitif.
Dinner reservations are essential. The
downside on our last visit: ohand, unsmiling service.
DOLCI GERONIMI // OVER 50
VARIETIES OF ICE CREAMS AND
SORBETS

Mmm, and what ice creams and freshfruit sorbets! Behind Dolci Geronimi
(%04 95 28 04 13; hAprmid-Oct), an airy cafe
where you can eat in or take out by the
tubful, the Geronimis confect a wondrous
variety of ices. Try the framboise (raspberry) and youll imagine youre eating
the pulped fruit on a cold day; alterna-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

tively, indulge in the tutti frutti, a synthesis of fresh juices. Many are more creative
and some flavours, such as Brocciu, carrot or chestnut flour, require a measure of
daring on the part of the purchaser.

INLAND FROM SAGONE

Extending between Sagone and Col de
Verghio, this mountainous microregion
makes for a great day of inland driving.
It also oers ample scope for walkers.
MUNA // A DESERTED VILLAGE
AND A SUPERLATIVE DRIVE

WALKING FROM SOCCIA TO

LAC DE CRENO (LAVU DI CRENU) //
HIKE OR HORSE RIDE?

From the village of Soccia, follow signs

for the lake for 3km, then leave your

99

vehicle beside the small summertime

cafe at the end of the road. In July and
August you can hire a donkey or pony
(per hr/half-day 10/25) to clip-clop up the
rocky trail that clings to the southern
flank of the valley. If youre hiking, you
cant go wrong just look out for the
yellow and orange blazes, and donkey
droppings. Theres no shade until, after
around 45 minutes, you enter a pine
wood where a welcome spring flows.
Around five minutes beyond the spring,
Lac de Creno (1310m) is a lovely green
oasis. Fringed by spongy sphagnum
moss and encircled by laricio pines, its
the perfect picnic spot. In spring, youll
have the added delight of water lilies in
flower. Since its a particularly sensitive
protected area (one of the rarities here
is the drosera, a carnivorous plant, so
keep your boots on!), theres no swimming. Allow around 2 hours for the
round-trip.
A MERENDELLA // SEASONAL
FARE STRAIGHT FROM THE
GARDEN IN SOCCIA
%04 95 28 34 91; rte de lglise; mains 19, menus
25-35; hlunch & dinner Thu-Tue Apr-Oct

At this mountain restaurant, dishes

vary according to the season and according to whats in the restaurants
kitchen garden. The engaging young
owners have created flexible menus (set
menus) that allow you to pick anything
from a simple dish to a full four-course
meal. Alternatively, go for the restaurants speciality, a generous sampling
plate (23). The whole experience is a
delight: beneath you is the soft lawn;
above, trees of cherry, apple and peach;
and stretching before you is the green
of oak and chestnut forest. Credit cards
arent accepted.

THE WEST COAST

Muna is a ghost village. Still gripping

the mountainside, its only evident life
are a few quicksilver lizards and a family
of feral cats that nuzzle your ankles. Its
setting, backed by sheer crags and with
views extending to the Mediterranean,
is as spectacular as the exhilarating road
that brings you here.
As you pick your way up the hillside,
you get a feel for how life was lived in this
typical mountain village. The spring still
flows, a twisted vine still shades an abandoned porch and the huge grindstone
of the village mill totters on its axle. The
chapel remains locked and intact and, if
you open the communal oven, the aroma
of wood smoke wafts out. The war memorial still honours the one Rossi and eight
Niviaggiolis who gave their lives in WWI.
To get here from Murzo, follow the D4
for 7.7km, then park opposite a yellow
postbox, 400m beyond a sign for the village. A steep, mostly cobbled track leads
to the village in less than 10 minutes.

GOLFE DE SAGONE

100

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

COUVENT DE ST FRANOIS //
A CHURCH SERVING A STILLACTIVE MONASTIC COMMUNITY

Looking over a tight valley to the village of Vico, this elaborately decorated
17th-century church has a fine wooden
crucifixion in the south aisle, which predates the monastery and is reputed to be
Corsicas oldest. In the sacristy, behind
the altar, theres a wonderful carved
chestnut cope chest. In the 18th century,
the church served as a communal burial
ground and, after the funeral service,
bodies were dropped through a trapdoor
and covered with quicklime.
Afterwards, pass by Vico, with its
narrow, tree-lined streets and tall town
houses. Although its peaceful after
dark, during the day its busy with local
trade, ramblers stocking up on fresh produce, and men playing boules on place
Padrona.

THE WEST COAST

GOLFE
DAJACCIO &
AROUND
Two contrasting towns sit in the
crook of the arm of the Golfe
dAjaccio: eponymous Ajaccio, smart,
commercial and Corsicas largest town; and Porticcio, its seaside
playground across the bay. Inland,
by contrast, lies some of the islands
wildest, least spoilt countryside.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

economy, but this major commercial

and passenger port goes about its business almost oblivious to the stream of
summertime visitors. With its mellowtoned buildings, large marina and cafe
terraces, it has more than a whi of the
Cte dAzur.
Legend attributes Ajaccios origins to
the mythical Greek hero Ajax. In fact,
modern Ajaccio probably dates from no
earlier than 1492, when Genoese families first began moving here. Indigenous
Corsicans were banned from living in
the town until 1553, when it was seized
by Sampiero Corso (see the boxed text,
p191) and his French allies, assisted by
the Turkish privateer Dragut. Recaptured in 1559 by the army of the Republic of Genoa, the town was not truly open
to Corsicans until 1592.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Parc Naturel Rgional de la Corse information oce

(PNRC; %04 95 51 79 00; www.parc-naturel-corse.com,

in French; 2 rue Sergent Casalonga; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Information on the park, its hiking trails and open-air activities. Tourist oce (%04 95 51 53 03; www
.ajaccio-tourisme.com; 3 bd du Roi Jrme; h8am-7pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, 8am-8pm
Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Sun Jul & Aug, 8am-12.30pm
Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Sat Nov-Mar)

EXPLORING AJACCIO

AJACCIO (AJACCIU)

MUSE FESCH // FRANCES

LARGEST COLLECTION OF
ITALIAN PAINTINGS OUTSIDE THE
LOUVRE

pop 63,700
Ajaccio owes its status to its most famous son, Napolon Bonaparte, born
here in 1769. Commanding a lovely
sweep of bay, the city breathes confidence. Yes, tourism matters to its

At the time of writing, the splendid

Muse Fesch and the adjacent Chapelle
Impriale were both closed for renovations, and were expected to reopen in
late 2010. Consult the tourist oce for
the latest information.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

A J ACC I O

0
0

AJACCIO

200 m
0.1 miles

Cour
s Na
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A
C
B
D
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
ACCOMMODATION i
lec-vasion.................................25 C5
Parc Naturel Rgional de la
Htel Kallist .............................. 22 B3 Ferry to Porticcio
.......................26 C5
Charles
Ornano
Corse Information Office..........1 B5
La Mridionale
Ferry
Harbour
Tourist Office ...................................2 C5 TRANSPORT
Terminal ................................ (see 27)
R du
Do
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du
cteCours
ur Pe Internet........ 23 B5 Socit Nationale Corse
llegri
EXPLORING AJACCIO
Bus Station ...............................
(see
24)
Mditerrane Ferry
no
Assemble de Corse......................3
Corsica
Ferries Terminal ......... 24 C4
Terminal ....................................27 C3
nna d'O
l Colo
Av C oloneA5
man
o
Bibliothque Municipale ......... (see 9) Dcouvertes Naturelles
..........(see 5) Train Station................................28 C2
Boulangerie Galeani......................4 B5
Chapelle Impriale..................... (see 9)
V
" 32
Dcouvertes Naturelles................5 C5
To Quai des
Le Grandval ......................................6 B5
Torpilleurs
r Train
"
Maison Bonaparte..........................7 C6
Parking (700m);
28 Station
Plage du Ricanto
Muse A Bandera ...........................8 A5
V
"
(6km);
Campo
Muse Fesch ....................................9 C4
29
dell'Oro Airport
Nave Va........................................... 10 C5
Ferry
(8km)
Quay
Salon Napolonien..................... 11 C5
Villages Corses ............................. 12 C4

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THE WEST COAST

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Parking..........................................29
Parking..........................................30
Parking..........................................31
Parking..........................................32

R Fre d iani

RECOMMENDED SHOPS f
Farmers Market............................ 20 C5
U Stazzu.......................................... 21 C5

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B6
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GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS @
Da Mamma.................................... 13
Le 20123......................................... 14
Le Grand Caf Napolon........... 15
Le Spago......................................... 16
L'Estaminet.................................... 17
Restaurant Les Halles................. 18
U Pampasgiolu............................. 19

R J Baptiste Marca ggi

444444444

Jete de la
Citadelle

102

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

NEW CAPITAL
Corsicas largest town and nowadays the
site of the Assemble de Corse, Ajaccio
rose to fame under Napolon Bonaparte,
its most illustrious native son. In 1811 he
decreed that Corsica should be a single
dpartement, with Ajaccio as its capital.
Bastia, which lost its status as the islands
main town, was enraged, but Napolon
justified his decision by asserting that
Ajaccio should be the capitalsince it
is a natural harbour that lies across the
water from Toulon and is thus the closest
to France after St-Florent. In accordance
with the emperors wishes, Ajaccio went
on to spearhead the campaign to Gallicise the island.
MAISON BONAPARTE //
NAPOLONS BIRTHPLACE

In the 19th century Maison Bonaparte

THE WEST COAST

(%04 95 21 43 89; rue St-Charles; admission 5; h9amnoon & 2-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-noon & 2-4.45pm
Tue-Sun Oct-Mar) almost became a place of cult

worship, where the more-ardent devotees

would tear o a strip of wallpaper or prise
away a tile as a relic. Even today visitors
are asked to dress in a respectful manner,
as though entering a hallowed place. The
house where Napolon lived until he was
packed o to school on the mainland, aged
only nine, houses memorabilia of the emperor and his siblings, whom he planted
on the thrones of Europe.
MUSE A BANDERA // QUAINT
TRADITIONAL MUSEUM OF
CORSICAN CULTURE

This quirky place will appeal to lovers of

unreconstructed, touch-screen-tabooing
museums. The Muse A Bandera (%04
95 51 07 34; 1 rue du Gnral Lvie; admission 4;
h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun Julmid-Sep,

9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat mid-SepJun) is itself

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

something of a museum piece and is

all the more lovable for it. Among our
favourite exhibits are a giant model of
the 1769 battle of Ponte Novo that confirmed French conquest of the island; a
proclamation by one Gilbert Elliot, viceroy of the short-lived Anglo-Corsican
kingdom (179496); and some yellowing
19th-century magazine pages recounting
the arrest of infamous Corsican bandits.
SALON NAPOLONIEN //
ANOTHER NAPOLONIC SHRINE

High on the ceiling fresco of this ceremonial room (%04 95 51 52 62; town hall, place Foch;
admission 2.30; h9-11.45am & 2-4.45pm or 5.45pm
mid-Junmid-Sep, 9-11.45am & 2-4.45pm or 5.45pm
Mon-Fri mid-Sepmid-Jun) sits the emperor,

enthroned in majesty and surrounded by

soldiers, clergy and courtiers. Here too are
sculptures and paintings of the imperial
family, and a veritable mint of medals and
coins struck in Napolons honour.
BOAT TRIPS // EXPLORE THE
GOLFE DAJACCIO

Sign on at the quayside kiosk of Dcouvertes Naturelles (%04 95 73 12 66; www

.decouvertes-naturelles.net, in French; hMay-Sep)

to enjoy a half-day sailing trip to the les

Sanguinaires. To see these tiny islands in
their very best light, choose the romantic
sunset trip, complete with aperitif and
underwater lighting. For day outings to
the Rserve Naturelle de Scandola and
Les Calanques, see p83.
Alternatively, for a brief taste of the
gulf, simply hop on the passenger ferry
to Porticcio; see p105 for details.
RUE DU CARDINAL FESCH //
A STREET FOR HOLIDAY
SHOPPING

Linger along this carefree, car-free street

and its lateral oshoots. Push beyond

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

the fairly tacky touristware and fare at its

southern end to find a range of fun boutiques, plus a couple of long-established
Corsican favourites.
Oh, the aroma of fresh crusty bread as
you walk into Boulangerie Galeani (3 rue
du Cardinal Fesch)! Anas, who serves you, is
the fourth generation of a family thats
been baking bread and pastries for more
than 150 years. Everything, including the
bakerys own-recipe beignets de Brocciu
(Brocciu fritters) and canistrelli (biscuits
made with almonds, walnuts, lemon or
aniseed), is confected on the premises.
Villages Corses (44 rue du Cardinal Fesch) is
a specialist delicatessen packed with Corsican delicacies.
LE GRANDVAL // HAVE A DRINK
AND TAKE IN THE OLD-CORSICA
ATMOSPHERE

Opened in 1892, this friendly little bar

(%04 95 21 13 15; 2 cours Grandval; h6.30am-9pm
Mon-Sat), owned by Jean-Claude Fieschi

BIBLIOTHQUE MUNICIPALE //
A RETREAT FROM THE STREET

If the hubbub and heat of rue du Cardinal Fesch becomes trying, just step into
the 30m-long reading room (admission
free; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) of Ajaccios
municipal library to savour its coolness,
silence, floor-to-ceiling leather-bound
volumes, wooden ladders and 18m-long
central table, the whole speaking of serious-minded research.

103

QUARTIERS DES TRANGERS //

FORMER ENCLAVE FOR
NORTHERN EUROPEAN WINTER
VISITORS

Clues still remain to the elegant lifestyle

of wealthy British and German residents of Ajaccio, early snow birds who
chased the winter sunshine. Above cours
Grandval, todays Assemble de Corse
building was formerly the Grand Htel
dAjaccio et Continental. Beside cours
Gnral Leclerc (cours Grandvals continuation), the former Anglican church
is now a dance school, while at No 13 the
Cyrnos Palace hotel lives on as a private
house. On parallel bd Marcaggi and its
continuation, bd Scamarron, a few villas
with sad, unkempt gardens still stand.
PLAGE DU RICANTO // THE BEST
OF AJACCIOS BEACHES

Spread your towel on this long strand of

golden sand, 6km northeast of town, and
feel especially sybaritic as you watch the
joggers pu along its popular exercise trail.

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
DA MAMMA
%04 95 21 39 44; passage Guingette; mains 12-20,

menus 12-23; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat, dinner

Sun & Mon

Tucked away down a steep alley and

shaded by a magnificent rubber tree,
Mamas Place oers very reasonably
priced fare and a variety of menus. The
one costing 23 includes cannelloni with
Brocciu, and roast goat.
LALTRU VERSU
%04 95 50 05 22; www.laltruversu.com; Les Sep
Chapelles, bd Commne; mains 22-28, menus 32-39;
hlunch & dinner Apr-Sep, lunch & dinner Tue-Sun
Oct-May)

The Other Side, freshly installed

in new premises, remains one of the

THE WEST COAST

(see p105), has changed little, except

for the addition of a formica counter
30 years ago and the passing away of its
70-year-old parakeet in 2008. Haunting
photos of the Ajaccio of yesteryear plaster the walls and outside you can sit under the palm tree, planted by the owners
grandfather on the 100th anniversary of
Napolons death.

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

104

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

islands top destinations for creative

Corsican cuisine; try, for example, the
sorbet tinged with Pietra beer. Your
hosts, the Mezzacqui brothers (JeanPierre front of house, Pierre powering
the kitchen) hitch on their guitars and
serenade guests each Friday and Saturday night.
LE 20123
%04 95 21 50 05; www.20123.fr, in French; 2 rue Roi
de Rome; menu 32; hdinner Tue-Sun

This Corsican bistro started life in the

village of Pila Canale (postcode 20123
hence the name). When the Habani
family came to the big city, they recreated their old restaurant village pump,
a washing line sagging with pantaloons, a classic Vespa, life-sized dolls
in traditional dress and a hotchpotch
of grandads country paraphernalia. It
all sounds a bit tacky, yet diners flock
here for its well-prepared country cooking. Theres no la carte just a single
menu, presented orally. Reservations are
essential.

THE WEST COAST

LE GRAND CAF NAPOLON

%04 95 21 42 54; www.grandcafenapoleon.com, in
French; 10-12 cours Napolon; mains 24-30, menus
30-45; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat

The cuisines a dream and the threecourse weekday lunchtime menu du

march (17) represents quite exceptional value. Push beyond the streetside terrace (itself an Ajaccio institution) to the august belle poque former
ballroom, with its tall mirrors, high
ceilings, soaring cream arches and a
portrait of lempereur himself, pointing towards the reception desk. The
clientele is mostly mature local regulars. If the dessert selection features the
fruit tart a crispy, rich delight with
a base of ground-almond pastry ask

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

no further. Lunchtime reservations are

essential.
LE SPAGO
%04 95 21 15 71; rue du Roi de Rome; mains 11.5019.50, menu 20; hlunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat

At this cool designer restaurant decked

out in lime green, the oil and vinegar
dispensers squirt just the right amount,
and the mens and womens toilets are
designated by the creative use of a pair
of green apples well leave you to
discover exactly how. You wont find a
single Corsican speciality on the menu,
just great salads and tasty, inventive
dishes such as fillet of cod in a mango
sauce. Theres wi-fi, too, if you care to
linger over coee.
LESTAMINET
%04 95 50 10 42; 5-7 rue du Roi de Rome; mains
17.50-20, menus 18.50-25; hdinner Jun-Sep,
dinner Mon, Sat & Sun, lunch Tue, lunch & dinner Thu
& Fri Oct-May

The glorious bar of dark stained wood

could almost be a pulpit, and you could
practically play chess on the jazzy blackand-white floor tiles. The food is delightful, theres a well-chosen wine list and
the cheeses are organic.
RESTAURANT LES HALLES
%04 95 21 42 68; 4 rue des Halles; mains 11-28,
menus 15-29; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat

The welcomes warm and informal at this

friendly, family-run place, where granddad and grandson rule in the kitchen,
and grandma and granddaughter run
the front of house. Menus mainly feature
fresh fish thats come only as far as the
fishmonger opposite. Eat beneath the
giant awning or, if its cool, under the
vaults of this former wine cellar. Theres
live music to accompany Friday and Saturday dinners.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

INTERVIEW: JEAN-CLAUDE FIESCHI

105

Miles Roddis

Jean-Claude Fieschi, passionate photographer, collector of old cameras and unocial

recorder of Ajaccio, runs his little bar, Le Grandval (see p103) with his wife, Marie-Jeanne,
just as his mother and grandfather did before him. Its still much the same as when it
opened and the bar is plastered with images of old Ajaccio that represent only a fraction
of his collection. He walks me from image to image.
Whats changed? And for better or for worse? This convent, bulldozed. The military
hospital, demolished for that monster over there. Heres how the square looked nearly a
century ago. And of course things were better when we were young. Theyve cut down
so many of the trees that graced the town, and the tracs a nightmare. People [I take a
quick, quizzical gaze at his terrace, packed with locals] dont live outside as they used to
before TV.
Where do you take your own vacations? My wife sometimes slips up to Paris to stay with
her daughter. Me, I usually stay right here on the island, driving around, getting to know
it more. Just occasionally, Ill visit the mainland, if theres a meeting of camera collectors
or old photograph aficionados. [As we speak a friend drops in with an early print of a Corsican soldier in return for a modest banknote.]
And eating out, when you can? Nothing better than a meal with our friends who run
LAltru Versu [p103].
U PAMPASGIOLU
%04 95 50 71 52; 15 rue de la Porta; mains 14-28;

browse this large open-air market, located right in front of the tourist oce.

hdinner Mon-Sat

U STAZZU

1 rue Bonaparte

For five generations, the owners of this

shop have been rearing pigs in the high
mountains, feeding them on acorns and
chestnuts, and dispatching them when
theyre still tender and barely two years
old. In addition to its superb charcuterie,
U Stazzu also sells the usual range of
Corsican specialities from other small
producers.

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
On Fridays in July and August, shops
stay open until midnight, and theres live
music and street entertainment.
FARMERS MARKET

sq Campinchi; h8am-noon Tue-Sun

For fish, flowers, fruit and vegetables,

Corsican cheeses and meat products,

TRANSPORT
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
AIR // Campo dellOro airport (AJA; %04
95 23 56 56; www.ajaccio.aeroport.fr) is 8km east of
town; see p266 for more.
BUS // Town bus 8 (4.50, 20 minutes) runs frequently
between the airport and Ajaccios bus station.
TAXI // A taxi costs around 25.

THE WEST COAST

The Poppy has been garlanded by just

about every French gastronomic guide,
and youll dine very well indeed on the
small terrace or within the cool brickvaulted interior. Go la carte, or choose
the planche spuntinu (snack selection)
or planche de la mer (fish and seafood
selection) for a great selection of Corsican specialities served on wooden
platters.

106

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

GETTING AROUND
BOAT // Socit Nationale Corse

Mditerrane (SNCM; www.sncm.fr) runs ferries to/from Nice and Marseille, while Corsica
Ferries (%08 25 09 50 95; www.corsicaferries.
com) serves both Nice and Toulon; see p268 for more.

Dcouvertes Naturelles (%04 95 73 12 66;

www.decouvertes-naturelles.net, in French) runs a
ferry to Porticcio (one way/return 5/8, 20 minutes,
three to six daily). La Mridionale (%08 10 20
13 20; www.lameridionale.fr) has overnight sailings
from Marseille.
TRAIN // At least two trains run daily to/from Bastia
via Vizzavona and Corte. A minimum of two serve Calvi
via le Rousse, both destinations requiring a change in
Ponte Leccia.
PARKING // Parking in the centre of Ajaccio is a nightmare. From the free parking area at Quai des Torpilleurs,
an equally free shuttle bus runs every 15 minutes. There
are large paying car parks beside the entrance to the
ferry terminal and beneath place de Gaulle.

THE WEST COAST

BICYCLE // Bistrot du Cours Internet

(%04 95 21 44 75; 10 cours Napolon; per 6/12hr

10/13) rents bikes; it also oers internet access, wi-fi
and free book exchange. lec-vasion (%06 23
66 64 79; place du March; per 1/3hr 7/18) hires out
electric bikes.
BUS // Major bus companies have oces in the Corsica
Ferries terminal. The companies provide service from
Ajaccio to most parts of the island.

AROUND AJACCIO
POINTE DE LA PARATA &
LES SANGUINAIRES // A WILD
HEADLAND AND SCATTER OF
OFFSHORE ISLANDS

From the car park at Pointe de la Parata,

youll find a short, much-trodden walking trail that leads around the promontory. A stroll along here rewards you with
great sea views and tantalising close-ups
of the four islets of the les Sanguinaires,
thus called (their name means Bloody)
in honour of their distinctive red rock.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Tiny as they are, the islands support

over 150 dierent plant species and,
since there are no terrestrial predators,
theyre a haven for seabirds.
A CUPULATTA TORTOISE
CENTRE // EUROPES LARGEST
TORTOISE SANCTUARY

Located 21km from Ajaccio towards

Corte on the N193, A Cupulatta (%04
95 52 82 34; www.acupulatta.com, in French; admission 9.50; h9am-6pm or 7pm May-Oct) shelters

approximately 3000 hardbacks, representing more than 150 species from all
over the world. Its well documented
in multiple languages. Interesting tortoise fact: if the ground temperature
when a mother lays her eggs is above
28C, theres a greater probability of the
young ones being female. Under 28C,
theyre more likely to hatch out male.
(Its strictly tortoise lore, though, so
dont worry about any side eects of the
air-con!)

PORTICCIO
(PURTICHJU)
pop 2300
Extending thinly along the length of its
sandy beach, Porticcio suers from its
proximity to Ajaccio, 18km away by road
and much nearer if you take the ferry
across the bay; in summer its bumper to
bumper with holiday trac. But lets not
be too churlish: theres a great beach and
a jolly seaside atmosphere, and a visit
will give you a good sense of a typical
French holiday resort.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04

95 25 01 09; www.porticcio-corsica.com; h8.30am6pm Mon-Sat Apr-Sep, 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar) A

kiosk beside the landing stage.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

EXPLORING PORTICCIO
PLAGE DE LA VIVA // ONE OF
CORSICAS FINEST BEACHES

This lovely crescent of sandy beach,

undeniably Porticcios best asset, curls
northward. Above it are enough bars,
restaurants and water-sports centres to
keep the most demanding holidaymaker
happy.
WATER SPORTS //
GOING BEYOND THE BEACH

To put the crowds on the beach behind

you, hire a windsurfer, sea kayak or catamaran from Centre Nautique de Porticcio (%04 95 21 40 43; hApr-Sep) or, for less
eort, rent a zodiac from Loca-Nautic
(%04 95 25 17 85; www.loca-nautic.com, in French;
hJul & Aug).

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
Nearly all restaurants have wide terraces
overlooking Plage de la Viva; they oer a
feast for the eyes, perhaps less so for the
stomach.
LA SALADERIE

The view of the beach from here is only

oblique, but you do dine on a pleasant vine-shaded terrace with a wooden
deck. As youd anticipate from its name,
La Saladerie serves lavish, creative salads. It also oers avocados prepared
in 10 dierent ways, fresh pasta dishes
(10 to 22.50), and meats grilled over
a wood fire.
LE CLUB
%04 95 25 00 42; mains 21-29, menu 32; hlunch

& dinner mid-Decmid-Nov

For fine dining, Le Club stands head and

shoulders above the competing beach-

107

side restaurants. Theres a comfortable,

pleasing dining room decked out in
shades of ochre if you can tear yourself
away from the lovely terrace. The fish is
determined by whats in the fishermens
nets, and the desserts by the in-house
pastry chef are works of art. For a snack,
call by the adjacent Dlices Club, its bakery, which turns out tasty sandwiches,
quiches, pizzas, and meringues the size
of giant snowballs.

TRANSPORT
PARKING // There are two central free car parks, one
in front of the post oce and the other beside the Carrefour supermarket.
BOAT // Dcouvertes Naturelles (%04 95
73 12 66; www.decouvertes-naturelles.net, in French)
runs a ferry to Ajaccio (one way/return 5/8, 20 minutes,
three to six daily)

DRIVING TOURS
VALLE DU PRUNELLI
Distance: 85km
Duration: one day
If youve had a temporary surfeit of
mountain vistas and superb seascapes,
take a day to explore the gentle lower
Valle du Prunelli and its wilder upstream gorges.
Leave Ajaccio by the Bonifacio highway and, after 10km, take a slip road,
signed D3 Bastelicaccia. The valley, wide,
lush and cultivated in its lower reaches,
is green and gentle on the eye. Some
5km after Bastelicaccia, at Le Jardin
des Abeilles (%04 95 23 83 88; www.lejardindes
abeilles.com, in French; hyear round), bee-keeper
Denis Casalta explains in English how he
moves his 600 hives up the valley, month
by month, following the flowering, to
create his six varieties of honey, all of
which are for sale.

THE WEST COAST

%04 95 25 08 77; salads 8-29, menus 18-21; hlunch

& dinner Apr-Oct, lunch & dinner Fri-Wed Nov-Mar

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

108

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

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Call too by Corsicapam (%04 95 23

81 88; h8.30am-noon & 2-6pm Mar-Nov), just

THE WEST COAST

66
66
66
66
0
0

VALLE DU PRUNELLI

across the road. Here, Jean-Pierre and

Paul Caux distil organic essential oils
and create cosmetics from the myriad
powerfully scented herbs and shrubs of
the maquis. You can buy their products
from their small showroom.
At Col de Mercujo, 12km higher up
the valley, drink in a pair of superb panoramas. Look back from the pass to the
village of Ocana in the middle distance
and the sea beyond. Then take a 10- to
15-minute walk along a sandy track for a
plunging view of the Gorges du Prunelli
and Lac de Tolla, artificially constructed
but no less attractive for that.
One kilometre beyond the col, turn
right to descend to the lakeside, where a
couple of cabins oer snacks and drinks.
Its also a glorious spot for a dip in the
clear waters. Alternatively, stay dry and
hire a kayak, canoe or pedalo.
The road runs above the Gorges du
Prunelli, always present but morerarely visible, as it snakes its way through
mixed wood. Turn left for a 10km outand-back signed diversion to Bastelica, a
mountain village thats famous for char-

#
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N196

Parc Naturel
Rgional
de la Corse
Zevaco

#
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cuterie made from local cochons coureurs

(free-ranging pigs; see the boxed text,
p93). Its also the birthplace of Sampiero
Corso (see the boxed text, p191), whose
flamboyant statue stands proud here.
If youve postponed lunch, Restaurant
Chez Paul (%04 95 28 71 59; menus 17-26;
hlunch & dinner), in the upper part of the
village, has a wonderful terrace and
picture window overlooking the valley.
Youll receive a warm welcome from
your blu host, with his foghorn voice
and waggish chat.
Heading back along the D27, you
reach Col de Cricheto, and the opportunity for a train ride or a country
walk. We dont normally recommend
those little trains but this ones special:
Christian and Jean-Marie Lorenzon
have carved out a one-hour route
through the maquis and chestnut forest of their family land for the Petit
Train du Maquis (%04 95 28 41 36; www.

cricheto.com, in French; tickets 12.80; hdepartures

10.30am, 11.45am, 1.30pm & 3pm mid-Aprmid-Oct).

If youre after something more active,

walk their 3.5km Sentier Dcouverte
(Discovery Trail; admission 5.60), which has
interpretive panels in French.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

109

Marie Sicch, the first encountered, could

stand for many in the Haut Taravo. Its
a trim community of solid stone homes,
many recently painted and clearly cared
for. The same cant be said, alas, for the
neglected fortified tower built in 1553
by resistance hero Sampiero Corso (see
the boxed text, p191) even its plaque
is scarcely visible. Nor can the same be
said for the sad, crumbling 10th-century
Romanesque chapel, with its caved-in roof
and trees thrusting up through the aisle.
To reach the chapel, go right o the D83 at
the Chapelle Romane sign. For the tower,
turn left beside the current (intact) church
and travel as far as a T-junction. An easy
20-minute walk from the junction takes in
both the chapel and the tower.
The Haut Taravo has two exceptional
choices for authentic Corsican cuisine,
so its worth building your day around

Back at the wheel, drive another

1.5km, then take a 10-minute roundtrip stroll to a bijou Genoese bridge
thats a shady spot for a swim or paddle.
Continuing, its downhill nearly all the
way until the intersection with the N193.
Turn right to return to Ajaccio.

HAUT TARAVO
Distance: 152km
Duration: one day
In the furthest reaches of the Valle du
Taravo, at the very heart of the island, are
a cluster of tiny, austere one-bus-a-day
hamlets. Nowhere guards the secrets of
traditional Corsica better than this remote valley, clad in beech, chestnut and
holm oak.
Leave Ajaccio by the Bonifacio highway,
scud along the N196 and, after 32km,
turn left onto the D83. The village of Ste-

0
0

8 km
5 miles

666
666
66 666
66 666
HAUT TARAVO

Grav

on
a

Col de
Mercujo

3
" Plage de
La Viva
Porticcio

D27

#
Guitera \

# Coro
\

D302

#
\

de
Belle Valle

#
\

ra
Ta

# Pietrosella
\

# Acelasca
\

D302

D55

D155

de
Gradello

\
#

Pont de
\
Calzola #

0Calvese

0
D757

Plage de
Cupabia
3
"

D57

\ Serra
#

Ferro

\
#

N196

W Col

Auberge
du Col de
la Vaccia #W
Col de la
Vaccia

di

PetretoBicchisano

0
N196

\
#

\ Sollacaro
#

Col de Ste0

0
D69

Parc Naturel
Rgional
de la Corse

\ Ghjallicu
#

D420

Eustache

0
D557

ci

Fort de
Chiavari

Zicavo
C
#
Waterfall

#
\

Zevaco

D83

Ste-Marie
Sicch

W Col

0
D757

Campo \
#

# Molini
\

Col de
Cricheto

D28

N196

#
\

Plage
"
d'Agosta 3
# D55
Isolella \

D3

Ba
ra
c

Golfe
d'Ajaccio

Bastelicaccia

\
#

l li
ne

\
#

\
#

Aullne
\ Quenza
#
\
#
Serra di
\ Sorbollano
Scopamne #
\
#
\
#
Zonza
D69 Zerubia

THE WEST COAST

# Ajaccio
^

Tolla

vo

Plage du
Ricanto
3
" N196

u
Pr

0
!

#
\

#
Ocana \

110

G O L F E D A J ACC I O & A R O U N D

lunch; whichever you choose, do phone

to reserve. At the far side of Zevaco,
youll find the splendid U Taravu (%04
95 24 46 06; menus 19-28; hlunch & dinner May-Sep,
dinner Fri, lunch & dinner Sat, lunch Sun Dec-Apr), an

aable roadside place run by the Andreucci family. Portions are lavish (the
28 menu includes the familys farmraised lamb), and menus include both
wine and coee. Lunch over, drop down
to the cellar below the restaurant, duck
below the festoons of sausage, and pick
up a hank or two of charcuterie from the
Andreuccis farm, a couple of their cheeses or a bag of their own chestnut flour as
a reminder of a great country meal.
If its still too early for lunch, continue
for a further 6km beyond Zevaco, then
take the D28 left for barely five minutes
to Guitera, home of Chez Paul-Antoine

THE WEST COAST

(%04 95 24 44 40; www.chez-paul-antoine.com, in

French; menus 15-25; %lunch & dinner). Here

you can enjoy home-cured meats, pts,

sausages basically, everything that can
be salvaged, scented and spiced from
domestic pigs and wild boars (see also
the boxed text, p234).
Back on the D83, turn left onto the
D757 and follow signs to the mountain
hamlet of Zicavo. Popular with walkers down from the heights, Zicavo lazily spreads itself along the flank of the
mountain, its main street an avenue of
pollarded lime trees bordered by sturdy
grey-granite houses.
At a T-junction just beyond Zicavo,
turn right onto the D69. Park at a bridge
1.3km later and take a not-even-twominute walk upstream, where you can
paddle or swim at the base of a waterfall.
The forest drive gives flickering
glimpses of the spectacular valley below,
and of folds of hills rolling to the horizon
in lighter and lighter shades of grey. At a
fork, take the right-hand option, signed

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Aullne. From here, the road narrows

appreciably and views become wider,
more open and more awesome. Drivers should postpone their sightseeing,
however, since there are sheer drops over
many of the barrierless bends. At the Col
de la Vaccia, sit back on the terrace of the
Auberge du Col de la Vaccia, and drink
in the magnificent panorama before and
behind you. Once over the col, the most
spectacular driving of the day begins.
Aullne merits a short stop. In the village, turn right onto the D420 for a moregentle drive, the darker forests of laricio
pine on your left contrasting with the
lighter green of chestnut and oak. After
22.5km, turn right to rejoin the N196 and
return to Ajaccio, but not before saying
a final farewell to the river Taravo 5km
beyond the junction, look right as you
cross the modern road bridge to see the
river way below, spanned by a handsome
Genoese bridge.

THE SOUTH

3 PERFECT DAYS
DAY 1 // PREHISTORIC SURPRISES

Who were the mysterious people of the sea who appeared on Corsican shores around
1100 BC? Chances are well never know all of their secrets, but a visit to the menhir
statues at Filitosa (p117) sure can make the head spin with ideas. From there, its an
easy drive to the megaliths of Cauria (p126). A visit to the Bronze Age vestiges of
Cucuruzzu and Capula (p146), in the heart of LAlta Rocca, completes the trip.
DAY 2 // BEACHSIDE HEDONISM

Start your day with a mooch around Porto-Vecchios haute ville (upper town), then
head to Plage de Palombaggia (p139) before the crowds do. From here, don your best
bikini and leg it south to Plage de la Folacca (p139) in time for lunch at Tamaricciu
(p140). Spend the afternoon flopped out on a decadently thick mattress, or work your
suntan far from the crowds at little-known Plage de Cateraggio (p140). Come dusk,
feast on seafood at Le Gregale (p134).
DAY 3 // THE ACTIVE LIFE

Your biggest decision for today: on land or at sea? If its at sea, head to Baie de
Piantarella (p133) for a gentle kayaking excursion, then spend the afternoon diving
with groupers at Mrouville (p131). If its on land, the parc aventure (adventure park;
p144) in the Fret de LOspdale beckons. Enjoy lunch at U Funtanonu (p144), then
push on to Col de Bavella, where you can burn o the calories with a canyon descent
(p148). Finish the day at A Pignata (p147) with an energy-replenishing Corsican meal.

112

THE SOUTH

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

THE SOUTH
LEVIE

p146

Feast on a seven course Corsican

meal at A Pignata
U
"
Fort
de Chiavari

0
D302

#
\

Pont de
#
Calzola \

p117

Step back in time and ponder

Corsicas bizarre prehistory

Porto
Pollo

# Sollacaro
\

Ta
ra
vo

Olmeto
3
"

0
0 OlmetoPlage de
Plage
Taravo
D257

#
\

#
\

D19

Arbellara
Riz
zan
ese

D121

D148

gne
nta
Mo
l
rto
L'O

0
D48

Cap
Senetosa

Valle
de

Explore the alleys of this mysterious

town, preferably at Easter

\Tizzano
#

Pla e de
"
Tra L ettu 3

Cauria
"
b

age d'Erbaju 3
"
"
ge d'Argent 3

Mediterranean Sea

Golfe de
occapina

TIZZANO

p127

Rent a small motor boat and explore

Corsicas wildest coastline

lo
rto
l'O Giannuccio
#
\

Monacia0
0
N196

D50

#
d'Aullne \

3
"
Plage de
Roccapina

lots des
Moines

D50

p124

PianotolliCaldarello
#
\

Plage de
Kevano 3
"
"
Plage de Figari 3

Baie de
Figari

Golfe de
Ventilegne

GETTING AROUND
THE SOUTH

#
\

D268

] Sartne

D21

SARTNE

D69

#
\

N196

Campomoro

#
\

Poggio di Tallano

#
Viggianello Fozzano \

Propriano

"
Plage de Portigliolo 3

#
\

D557

#
\

D157

Golfe
du Valinco

N196

Ba
ra
cc
i

#
\

FILITOSA

# Calvese
\

"
b
Filitosa

#
\

Col de S
Eustache

N196

D757

Serra di
Ferro

Plage de
D155 Cupabia
3
"

tretoBi hisano

In the most touristy urban areas, especially Bonifacio, Porto Vecchio and Propriano, as well as
along the most popular beaches, finding a parking spot in summer is maddening. The trick is to
arrive early in the morning. In the villages, youll have less trouble finding parking spaces. On the
whole, southern Corsica is fairly easy to navigate, and you can expect numerous gorgeous runs
and dramatic scenery (especially in the Alta Rocca); be prepared, however, for lots of hairpin bends
and narrow roads. Distances are usually expressed in hours, rather than in kilometres.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

THE SOUTH

0
0

COL DE BAVELLA

10 km
6 miles

0
!

p148

Experience the sensational

mountainscape while swinging
through a parc aventure

Ghjallicu
#
\

# Aullne
\

iguilles
To Solenzara (20km)
de Bavella
\
# Bavella
W
Col de
Bavella

Punta
d'Ortu

Quenza D268
#
\
Sorbollano \
# Zonza
#
\

occa
lta R
San Gavino
L'A
# di Carbini
\
b
Pianu di "
D368
Levie
# Levie
\

Zerubia

uC

GOLFE DE PINARELLO

p141

Take a kayaking tour to access

remote corners of this fantastic gulf

Vall e d

#
\

Plateau du
Coscoine

Col de la
Vaccia

113

D168

\
# Conca

av u

Ste-Lucie d
Porto-Vecc o

\
#

#
\

#
Porto-Vecchio ]

0
0

#
Petralonga \
Salvini

1 Figari
"
Sud Corse

# Figari
\

# Suartone
\

D59

Plage de
Balistra
"
3

N196

Plage de
3
" la Tonnara

Golfe de Porto Novo

Plage du
Petit
Sprone

Golfe de
Sant' Amanza

Plage de Maora &

3
" Plage de Sant' Amanza
3
" Plage de Calalonga

Baie de Pintarella
3
Tre Punti "
3
""
3
Cap
le Cavallo
Pertusato Plage du
Grand
les Lavezzi
Sprone
Bouches de Bonifacio

p129

The best views of wonderful

Bonifacio are from a boat

DISTANCE CHART (KM)

Porto-Vecchio

28

Propriano

64

72

Sartne

52

48

13

Zonza

66

39

39

37

Note: Distances between destinations are approximate

THE SOUTH

Bonifacio ]

3
" Plage de
Rondinara

BONIFACIO

fa
cio
-V
ec
ch
io
Pr
op
ria
no
Sa
rt
ne

Gavinu

rto

# San
\

Bo
ni

# Piscia
\

Golfe de

Porto-Vecchio
P ge de
" Cateraggio
3
N198
Plage de
ci
" Palombaggia
3
Stab i ac
"
Plage d'Asciaghju 3
Rserve
Sotta
" Plage de
3
Naturelle des
Plage de
#
\
la Folacca
les Cerbicale
D459 Santa Giulia
D859
3
"
#
Santa Giulia \
Tyrrhenian Sea
Golfe de Santa Giulia

Po

Ste-Lucie
de Tallano

l'

N198
O
s u Lecci Pinarello
# Golfe de
\
#
\
"
U
# Torraccia
\
Pinarello
Carbini Fort de # Barrage de
D468
L'Ospdale L'Ospdale
Punta
di
a
D248
Plage de
Vacca Morta $
# L'Ospdale
\
San Ciprianu PLAGE DE
#
\
San 3
#"
\
Cartalavonu
Ciprianu
p139
PALOMBAGGIA
#
La Trinit de \
# Cala Rossa
\
Porto-Vecchio
agna
D59
Sun
and
splash
at
this
idyllic
de C
3
"
"
Plage de
Punta di 3
D368 Benedettu
Cala Rossa
beach near Porto Vecchio

\
#

114

T H E S O U T H G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

THE SOUTH
GETTING STARTED
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

Multifaceted southern Corsica oers a mix of hedonistic, cultural and adrenaline-fuelled experiences. Theres
nowhere better to sample la dolce vita than in the alleys of Bonifacio or Porto-Vecchio, and the coastline is
bordered by dozens of Seychelles-like expanses of white
sand youll need at least a week to do them justice.
Deeper inland, the Alta Rocca, with its stalwart hilltop
villages and awesome mountainscapes, prehistoric sites
and attractive B&Bs, merits another five days. Keep a
few days spare for the regions hidden gems, including
Tizzano, the enigmatic town of Sartne and the wild
Valle de lOrtolo.
TOP EXCURSIONS
HELICOPTER RIDES

The skys deep blue and theres no haze? Book a helicopter ride and see the coastline,
the beaches and mountains from the air youll never forget the experience (p135).
FILITOSA

Southern Corsica is better known for its splendid beaches and chic coastal cities than
its prehistoric remains, but youll be amazed by the mysterious megaliths at Filitosa.
Get an audioguide and ponder Corsicas Stonehenge (p117).
BOAT TRIPS FROM BONIFACIO

THE SOUTH

Admire Bonifacios awesome position on top of magnificent chalky clis and deep
inlets with transparent blue water from out at sea. You can also take a longer itinerary
taking in the les Lavezzi (p131).
SUNSET CRUISE

Embark on a sunset cruise in the Golfe du Valinco the colours that ranges from
ochre to golden as the sun sets will ignite the imagination of photographers and
romantic souls (p120).

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

GETTING AWAY
FROM IT ALL
Southern Corsica may be very touristy in the
high season, but its possible to escape the
crowds and find your own slice of paradise.

Valle de lOrtolo Retreat from the

N196 to this timeless valley, which feels
like its at the end of the world (p126)

T H E S O U T H G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

TOP BEACHES
PALOMBAGGIA

Photogenic and deservedly popular

(p139)
CUPABIA

Intimate paradise, killer sunsets (p116)

PORTIGLIOLO

Tizzano This coastal village appears at

the end of the D48 like a mirage (p127)

Excellent for sunbathing and water

sports (p119)

Quenza Set in the Alta Rocca, this gem

RONDINARA

of a village is the perfect place to rejuvenate mind and body (p145)

A horseshoe-shaped beach lapped by

clear waters (p133)

Pays de Colomba To glimpse Corse

profonde (deep Corsica), take a trip into
Proprianos hinterland for perched villages and wonderful panoramas (p120)

LES LAVEZZI

A clutch of uninhabited islets (p132)

PETIT SPRONE

The souths most elegant beach (p132)

TOP ACTIVITIES

PINARELLO

If you want to try something youve never

done before, southern Corsica is the place.

Sweeping blond sand backed by pine

trees and restaurants (p141)

Parcs aventure Ready for a thrilling,

yet undemanding, ride along a zip line?
Bookmark the Bavella area (p148), which
is an atmospheric playground. The sensational Aiguilles de Bavella as a backdrop are an added bonus.

ROCCAPINA

Diving Get up close and personal with

big groupers at Mrouville (p131), an
iconic, easy dive site in the Lavezzi archipelago. Sightings are guaranteed, in less
than 20m.

Corse Sud (www.corse-sud.net) A compre-

Corsica Isula (www.corsica-isula.com) An

Corsica Travel Guide (www.corsica

Canyoning Learn the ropes (literally)

of canyoning in the gentle Canyon du
Baracci (p121), an easy canyon descent
featuring various leaps in natural pools.
Beginners are welcome no previous
experience is necessary.

Fantastic setting under Dal-esque rock

formations (p128)

RESOURCES
hensive link to all things south Corsican
exhaustive website with useful links

travelguide.com) A commercial website

with useful tourist information

Stone Pages Corsica (www.stonepages

.com/corsica) A terrific online tour of
Corsicas prehistoric sites

THE SOUTH

115

116

G O L F E D U VA L I N C O

GOLFE DU
VALINCO
Shaped like a huge bite chomped out
of the fretted coastline of Corsicas
west coast, the Golfe du Valinco
offers some of the wildest and most
rugged coastal scenery of the island.
At the eastern end of the bay is Propriano, a buzzing holiday centre in
summer. There are also two smaller
coastal pleasures on each side of
the bays open mouth: on the north
side is Porto Pollo, and on the south
is Campomoro, both blessed with
magnetic beaches lapped by lapis
lazuli waters. The Golfe du Valinco
even shines under the water, with
a collection of truly fantastic dive
sites that are suitable for all levels of
proficiency.

TRANSPORT

THE SOUTH

BUS // From mid-September to June, Alta Rocca

Voyages Ricci (%04 95 51 08 19; www

.alta-rocca-voyages.com) runs a daily bus service, except
Sunday, between Ajaccio and Zonza via Porto Pollo,
Olmeto-Plage, Propriano and Sartne. Eurocorse
(%04 95 76 13 50) has two daily services (one on
Sunday) between Ajaccio and Bonifacio via Olmeto,
Propriano, Sartne and Porto-Vecchio in July and August. From September to June it runs one daily service
Monday to Saturday.
BOAT // Ferries link Propriano with Toulon, Marseille
and Porto Torres (Sardinia); see p268 for details. You
can buy tickets at Sorba (%04 95 76 04 36; quai
LHerminier, Propriano), a shipping agency representing
all the ferry lines.
PARKING // Keep in mind that theres very limited
roadside parking in Porto Pollo and Campomoro; the
early car gets the space. Propriano has more-ample
parking facilities.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

PORTO POLLO &

AROUND
Porto Pollo has great water sports, superb beaches and good accommodation,
not to mention a wonderfully unfussy
ambience and a location close to the
archaeological site of Filitosa. And all
this is set in an area of rolling hills and
fragrant maquis pushed up against the
Mediterranean. Despite its popularity with young people and families,
who flock to the town in high season,
Porto Pollo retains the atmosphere of a
small fishing village and is a great base
from which to explore the surrounding
countryside.

EXPLORING PORTO POLLO &

AROUND
BEACHES // FEEL THE SAND IN
YOUR TOES

East of Porto Pollo, Plage de Taravo is

a choice stretch of sand for families and
kitesurfers. The more-secluded Plage de
Cupabia, with its long, wide expanse of
brilliant-white sand and azure waters,
is much more appealing. Its accessible
from the tiny hilltop village of Serra di
Ferro, perched 4km above Porto Pollo;
take the sealed road o the D155.
HORSE RIDING // CLIP-CLOP
THROUGH THE COUNTRYSIDE

The countryside around Porto Pollo is

a top spot for horse riding, with a good
network of riding tracks criss-crossing
the maquis. On the road to Serra di Ferro
(take the D155), the reputable riding
centre Fil di Rosa (%04 95 74 08 08; 1-/3hr
ride 20/45; hMon-Sat by reservation) is ready
to take you on guided rides ranging
from one-hour jaunts (20) to day-long
excursions. The three-hour ride is recommended, especially if you relish the

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

idea of experiencing the fantastic Plage

de Cupabia from a saddle. Children aged
over 10 are welcome.
NAUTICAL SENSATIONS //
COMBINE ACTION AND
EXPLORATION

If youre new to windsurfing and sailing, the calm waters o Porto Pollo are
a good place to be initiated. Centre
Nautique de Porto Pollo (%06 09 40
37 65; hdaily May-Sep), near the harbour,
handles rentals (from 16/35 per hour
for a surfboard/catamaran) and also
lessons. Sea kayaking is also available
(from 10/35 per hour/day); it takes
about two hours to get to Plage de
Cupabia. Centre Nautique also hires

ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation options in this region
range from ultraluxurious hotels and
upmarket villas to atmospheric B&Bs
and aordable midrange ventures in
the hinterland. Bookings are essential
in July and August. For a complete list
of recommendations, see the Accommodation chapter. These are some of our
favourites:

Les Bergeries de Palombaggia

(p251) is a place of easy bliss,
with stunning views of Plage de
Palombaggia
Theres only one word to describe A
Pignata (p253): heaven!

Secluded and congenial, Chambres

dHtes Bergeries de Piscia (p250)
has killer views from the swimming
pool

Run by charismatic Pierrot, Chez

Pierrot (p252) is an authentic B&B

Htel Alivi (p251) is sleek, intimate

and well designed

117

out small 6HP motor boats (no licence

required) for 30/55 per half-/full day.
Theyre the perfect way to explore the
secret inlets west of Porto Pollo, or to
get to magnetic Plage de Cupabia in
less than an hour.
Divings more your thing? Porto Pollo
is an ideal launching pad if you want to
check out the best dive sites of the gulf.
Terrific spots include Les Aiguilles, Les
Cathdrales and Le Jardin, all within
easy reach from the harbour. For beginners there are sheltered inlets within the
gulf, which oer safe conditions for an
introductory dive. Porto Pollo Plonge
(%06 85 41 93 94; www.portopollo-plongee.fr;
hdaily May-Oct by reservation) is one of the

best diving operations in the area and

employs English-speaking sta; it also
oers twice-weekly snorkelling trips
near Les Cathdrales (20). A single dive
costs from 35.
CORSICAN NIGHT // LISTEN
TO HAUNTING REFRAINS WHILE
DEVOURING GRILLED MEATS

Dont miss the soire corse (Corsican

night) on Wednesday and Friday in
summer at the restaurant U San Petru
(%06 19 94 79 95; Serra di Ferro; mains 9-17;
hlunch & dinner daily May-Sep, lunch Mon-Sat & dinner by reservation Oct-Apr). Its in the centre of

the spectacular perched village of Serra

di Ferro. Sink your teeth into a cte de
porc (pork chop) or cte de veau (veal
chop), served indoors or alfresco on the
shady terrace, while listening to live Corsican music.
FILITOSA // EXPLORE THE
VESTIGES OF THE MYSTERIOUS
SHARDANES

The archaeological site of Filitosa (%04

95 74 00 91; www.filitosa.fr; admission 6; h8am-8pm
Apr-Oct) is sure to pique your curiosity.

THE SOUTH

G O L F E D U VA L I N C O

118

G O L F E D U VA L I N C O

SEA PEOPLE

THE SOUTH

Who were the Torrens, the people who

appeared on Corsican shores around
1100 BC, drove out the settled inhabitants of Filitosa, destroyed many of their
statues and built the torri (circular monuments) in their place? The traces they left
are very faint indeed.
According to Roger Grosjean, the
archaeological authority on Filitosa,
they could actually have been
Shardanes, the people enigmatically
known to historians as sea people,
who battled the pharaoh Ramses
III. They probably originated from
Anatolia, Crete or along the coast of
the Aegean Sea. Its said that, after
having been defeated by Ramses III,
the Shardanes made their way to
Corsica and Sardinia before slipping
back into obscurity.

There are still many unsolved mysteries

connected with this famous site, which
was discovered in 1946 by the owner of
the land on which its situated.
The oldest findings on the site suggest
a cave-dwelling population. There are
remnants of pottery, arrow heads and
farming tools that point to fixed settlements beginning as early as 3300 BC.
The menhir statues of the megalithic
period are even more impressive; the
fact that they were erected at all marks
a major advance in skill. The purpose of
these granite monoliths, 2m to 3m high
and carved to represent human faces
or entire human figures armed with
weapons, is not entirely clear. Youll
first come to the menhir statue known
as Filitosa V. This one has a distinctive,
rectangular head, and is the largest and
best-armed statue in Corsica; a sword
and a dagger are both clearly visible. If

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

you continue along the path youll come

to some caves and the foundations of
several huts before you get to the central
torre (circular monument), which has
six little statues. One of these statues is
known as Filitosa IX, and its face is considered to be one of the masterpieces of
megalithic art. Another highlight is a
group of five menhir statues lined up in
an arc around the foot of a 1200-yearold olive tree.
At the entrance theres a small museum with information about the Torrens-Shardanes (see the boxed text,
left).
From Filitosa, you can drive a few
kilometres east to Calvese and Sollacaro,
two untouristed hamlets blessed with
lovely surroundings.

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
LA CANTINE DU GOLFE
%04 95 74 01 66; Porto Pollo; mains 9-26, menus
12-26; hlunch & dinner May-Oct

This clean-cut eatery boasts contemporary furnishings, a sexy atmosphere and

elegantly presented dishes that might include pasta, bruschette, fish or lamb. The
lovely terrace overlooking the marina is
another drawcard.
LE MOULIN FARELLACCI
%04 95 74 62 28; http://lemoulinfarellacci.free.fr;
Calvese; mains 10-17, menu 35; hdinner
mid-Junmid-Sep

The full monty! A brilliantly converted

olive mill, an impossibly copious sixcourse dinner, lovely views from the
terrace and the cheeriest soires chants et
guitares (song-and-guitar evenings) for
miles around if youre after a typical
Corsican experience, this place is hard
to beat. We guarantee its authentic, and
the lads who sing and play the guitar
know their stu. Bookings are essential.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

G O L F E D U VA L I N C O

EXPLORING PROPRIANO

PROPRIANO (PRUPRI)

Proprianos prime attraction is its waterbased activities, but there are also plenty
of options for landlubbers.

pop 3500
At the eastern end of the Golfe du Valinco, Propriano draws water-sports enthusiasts, beach bums, fish lovers and sweet
tooths. Architecturally speaking, the town
feels modernish and a bit sterile
if its robust charm youre after, head
to Sartne, which is a mere 15-minute
drive away but the bustling waterfront
is full of atmosphere in summer, and a
few beaches have managed to retain their
beauty despite the tourist development.

BEACHES // SOAK UP RAYS ON

PRETTY BEACHES

The best of the little beaches in town are

Plage du Lido, west of the lighthouse,
and its neighbour, the appealing Plage
du Corsaire. Both are suitable for kids,
and have crystal-clear water that just
begs to be swum in.
You can also head to the fantastic
Plage de Portigliolo, 7km south of town
on the road to Campomoro. What a
beach! Its an incredible 4km long and,
with its fine, white sand and lack of
development, is by far the nicest in the
area. Theres little or no shade, so bring
your own, as well as plenty of water.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04
95 76 01 49; www.oti-sartenaisvalinco.com; h8am8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Sun Jul & Aug,
8am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Mon-Sat May, Jun, Sep & Oct,
9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) At the marina.

0
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PROPRIANO
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ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
GASTRONOMIC
Tourist Office..................................... 1 C2 HIGHLIGHTS @
Glaces Artisanales ............................ 6 B2
EXPLORING PROPRIANO
Le Lido ........................................... (see 12)
Centre Nautique Valinco............... 2 D1 Le Riva Bella ....................................... 7 C2
Dcouvertes Naturelles ................. 3 C2 No Stress Caf - Le Bischof............ 8 B2
Plage du Lido .................................... 4 A2 Tempi Fa.............................................. 9 C2
Promenade en Mer Valinco.......... 5 C2 Terra Cotta........................................10 B2

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ACCOMMODATION i
Htel Bellevue ................................ 11 C2
Le Lido............................................... 12 A2

TRANSPORT
Alta Rocca Voyages Ricci ......... 13
Eurocorse ......................................... 14
Ferry Quay........................................ 15
Sorba.................................................. 16

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THE SOUTH

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120

G O L F E D U VA L I N C O

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BOAT EXCURSIONS // SAIL

ALONG PRISTINE COASTLINES

The best way to explore the Golfe du

Valinco and the lovely bays that grace the
coast further south is to take a boat trip.
Promenade en Mer Valinco (%06 12 54
99 28; www.promenade-en-mer-a-propriano
.com; hdaily Maymid-Oct) oers perhaps the

most original and ecofriendly cruise. The

pique-nique convivial is a delightful 3hour excursion on a catamaran (adult/
child 38/19, maximum 12 people),
which includes a swimming stop in an
idyllic cove. Bring a picnic. It also runs
regular tours with an outboard-powered
12-seater (adult/child 16/11, 1 hours).
Romantic souls and photographers
will opt for the sunrise or sunset cruise
(adult/child 24/12, 1 hours).
Dcouvertes Naturelles (%06 03 77
42 56; www.decouvertes-naturelles.net; hdaily
Maymid-Oct) has a day trip that embraces

THE SOUTH

all the coves and inlets down to Tizzano.

Theres a three-hour swimming stop at
the wonderfully intimate cove of Tivella,
which isnt accessible from the road.
From Tivella, you can take a guided walk
with a conservationist to the Senetosa
lighthouse an enlightening experience
thats a fun way to learn about the areas
unique environment. The trip costs 45.
DONKEY RAMBLING //
EXPLORE THE MAQUIS WITH A
FOUR-LEGGED FRIEND

If you want a gentle approach to exploring

the area, nothing can beat a donkey ride
high in the hills overlooking the Golfe du
Valinco, on the mule paths through the
maquis, or down to the Rizzanese river
for an oh-so-refreshing dip in a secluded
natural pool. The children ride the donkey while the parents walk; a guide leads
the animal. Its fun, safe and easy. Contact

WORTH A TRIP

If the beaches start to overwhelm, a 30-minute drive will transport you to another world.
From Propriano, take the D19 to Viggianello and Arbellara, about 10km from the coast.
A further 4km or so will bring you to Fozzano, a typical Corsican village with lofty granite
houses and sweeping views over the gulf. Fozzano was notorious for the bloody feuds
that divided the village in the 19th century, but its now a peaceful settlement with a couple of eye-catching buildings, including the 14th-century Torra Vecchia and the 16thcentury Torra Nova. Feeling peckish? Head to Viggianellos Chez Charlot (%04 95 76 00 06;
mains 10-15, menu 19; hlunch & dinner mid-AprSep), which specialises in traditional Corsican
fare at very reasonable prices. Theres a breezy terrace with mind-boggling views over the
gulf. In Arbellara, you can stock up on organic cheese and cured meats at Fromagerie
LEternu (%04 95 73 46 79).
On your way back, take a soothing dip in the Bains de Caldane (%04 95 77 00 34;
admission 4; h 9.30am-11pm Sat & Sun mid-Junmid-Sep, 9.30am-8pm mid-Sepmid-Jun), sulphur
hot springs with therapeutic properties. For the ultimate indulgence, order a glass
of Champagne and drink it while lounging in the pool (12). The springs are in the
Fiumicicoli valley; to get here from Arbellara, follow the D119 until the junction with
the D268, turn left until the junction with D148, and follow the signs.
Heading back to Propriano along the D268, youll go past the Spina Cavallu
Genoese bridge, hidden down the road.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

G O L F E D U VA L I N C O

121

Asinu di a Figuccia (%06 03 28 92 00, 06 03 28

81 85; per donkey 60; hApr, Jul & Aug), signposted
on the D257, between Propriano and
Olmeto. The owners also sell high-quality
olive oil from their own olive trees.

WATER SPORTS // GLIDE ON

TRANSLUCENT WATERS

PARC AVENTURE &

CANYONING // SWING THROUGH
THE FOREST LA GEORGE OF THE
JUNGLE

(%06 12 54 99 28; www.centre-nautique-valinco.com;

hdaily mid-MaySep) is on the beach, about

About 3km from Propriano, o the

D257, theres an excellent parc aventure
set up by Baracci Natura (%06 20 95 45
34; www.baraccinatura.fr; rte de Baracci; admission
15-20; hdaily Jul & Aug) in a forest of cork

oak trees. Two circuits are available. The

dcouverte is suitable for children over
five years, and the sensation is equipped
with zip lines, Nepalese bridges, swings,
platforms and other fixtures that will
make your heart race.
Further along the valley, canyoning is
available in the Canyon du Baracci. Its
an enjoyable circuit, with one 25m zip
line, various jumps into natural pools
and three toboggans that plunge down
water-polished chutes. A half-day will set
you back 35; contact Baracci Natura for
information. Sta speak English.
THE SEAFRONT // SOAK UP THE
GOOD VIBES ALONG THE MAIN
STRIP

250m beyond the tourist oce. It rents

out windsurfers (16 per hour), sailboats
(from 16 per hour) and kayaks (from
12 per hour), and organises private and
group lessons for people aged from seven
to 77. English is spoken.

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
The main drag, av Napolon, is almost
wall-to-wall with restaurants. Most eateries boast a terrace overlooking the sea.
GLACES ARTISANALES
%06 74 52 79 26; av Napolon; ice creams from
1.50; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat Mar-Jun & Sep, daily
9am-8pm Jul-Aug

Its hard to resist the generous scoops

and creamy delights at this little icecream parlour on the main strip. Eschew predictable favourites and indulge
in a new taste sensation: the Brocciu
(ice-cream flavoured with goats- or
ewes-milk cheese) and chtaigne
(chestnut) are outstanding. So is the
myrte (myrtle).
LE LIDO
%04 95 76 06 37; av Napolon; mains 18-30;
hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun May-Sep

A relatively young chef whos built a fine

reputation, Romuald cooks dishes that
are local, fresh and, most importantly,
a feast for the taste buds. The langouste
au four (lobster; 22 per 100g) is his signature dish, but his regularly changing
menu is always imaginative. Dinner is
best enjoyed on the oh-so-romantic

THE SOUTH

A gentle wander along the seafront

makes a pleasant prelude to a seaside
aperitif or a fine meal at one of the
towns good restaurants. You can start
from the marina, opposite the tourist
oce, and walk towards the west, up to
Plage du Lido. Its a short walk but allow
plenty of time as there are lots of temptations along the way, from a glass of wine
at trendy Tempi Fa (p122) to a scrummy
ice-cream concoction at Glaces Artisanales (right).

Why not try windsurfing, kayaking or

sailing? The waters o Propriano are usually mirror calm ideal for beginners and
children. The Centre Nautique Valinco

122

G O L F E D U VA L I N C O

little terrace behind the verandah, with

the waves almost lapping your toes.
Youll be in seventh heaven.
LE RIVA BELLA
%04 95 76 24 69; av Napolon; mains 9-25, menus
12-20; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat Apr-Jun & SepOct, lunch & dinner daily Jul-Aug

This snazzy spot with elegant furniture

strives to take customers on a culinary
journey. Its savoury Mediterranean
dishes are given a creative twist, then are
presented with gusto on amusing plates;
try the linguine and prawns flambed
with Grand Marnier. Pounce on the brilliant-value menus (set menus), and wash
it all down with a glass of Appellation
dOrigine Contrle (AOC) Sartne.
NO STRESS CAF LE BISCHOF
%04 95 76 30 00; av Napolon; mains 9-25, menus
16-25; hlunch & dinner May-Sep

The ambitious Bischofs have moved

from their former den in a backstreet
into sexier surrounds on the seafront.
Diners continue to be delighted, however, by the eclectic menu, which favours
fresh ingredients. The brochettes (meat
skewers) are grilled to perfection, and the
550g rib steak has attained cult status.
Generous wood-fired pizzas are also
available.
TEMPI FA

THE SOUTH

%04 95 06 16 52; av Napolon; tapas 6, platters

from 8; h9am-late Apr-Sep

Dont miss this supercool tapas and

wine bar on the seafront. It serves
amazingly delicious piattini (tapas-style
cheese and charcuterie assortments),
as well as more-substantial platters.
Wooden barrels on the small street terrace are ideal for watching the world go
by. It also doubles as a produce shop. A
winning formula.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TERRA COTTA
%04 95 74 23 80; av Napolon; mains 17-27, menu
32; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat Aprmid-Nov

A sterling reputation precedes this ode to

innovative Mediterranean dishes. Both
the colourful indoor dining room and
the agreeable terrace within grasp of the
bobbing boats provide the perfect setting in which to sample, say, a croquant
de denti la citronnelle (dentex bream
cooked with citronella). The ananas rti
au safran et romarin (roasted pineapple
with saron and rosemary) is a perfect
coda to a delightful meal.

CAMPOMORO
pop 150
Picturesquely surrounded by undulating
maquis-carpeted mountains, and blessed
with idyllic beaches, the seaside resort of
Campomoro is a gem. At the southern
tip of the gulf, it really feels like the end of
the line. Though there is only a handful
of accommodation options and restaurants dotted around its large sandy beach,
its low-key atmosphere makes it an attractive holiday destination. If you fancy
something more strenuous than unrolling a beach towel, theres also plenty to
do in the gulf, from diving to hiking to
kayaking. Be warned, however: the place
becomes packed in high season. During
this period its dicult to find both a bed
for the night and a parking space in town.
TOUR DE CAMPOMORO //
A TYPICAL CORSICAN GENOESE
TOWER

A major landmark in the gulf, the stately

Tour de Campomoro is at the end of the
beach, crowning a promontory. Built
in the 16th century by the Genoese, the
tower is one of Corsicas largest, and is
the only one on the island to have been

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

fortified with a star-shaped surrounding

wall. A fantastic lookout point, it was
lovingly restored in 1986.
COASTAL WALKS // LEAVE THE
CROWDS BEHIND

The coastline between Tizzano and

Campomoro is extremely alluring: a
string of hard-to-reach inlets lapped by
crystalline waters, the mandatory idyllic beaches, and vast expanses of chaotic
granite boulders. Running between Tour
de Campomoro and Cap Senetosa, the
Sentier Littoral Campomoro takes in
some of the most scenic spots in the area.
It takes roughly five hours to complete
(one way), but you can also choose to
walk smaller sections; the easiest one is
the loop known as Boucle des Pozzi (1
hours). In theory you can continue as far
as Tizzano but the section between Cap
Senetosa and Tizzano is poorly marked.
The walks are detailed in the De Campomoro Senetosa leaflet, available at the
tourist oce (p119) in Propriano.
PLAGE DE CAMPOMORO //
A GORGEOUS STRAND OF FINE
SAND

Campomoros turquoise waters and

luscious ribbon of white-sand beach,
backed by the Tour de Campomoro, are
a major attraction for visitors, but come
early if you want to secure the best patch
in summer. Calm waters make it ideal for
swimming. The rocky shorelines at each
end are also prime spots for snorkelling.

When it comes to fun in, on and under

the water, Campomoro is an excellent
base. The topography of the gulf perfectly
lends itself to a sea-kayaking tour its
the only way to access some of the most

123

TOP FIVE
SCENIC WALKS
Whether youre travelling along the stunning coastline or through the hinterland,
theres a profusion of scenic walks in
southern Corsica. Best of all, theyre gentle and easy, and allow you to explore
some truly amazing spots:

Sentier Fazzio (p132) On the

outskirts of Bonifacio, yet a world
away from the citys hullabaloo;
tantalising inlets, fantastic views and
heavy-scented maquis

Cap Pertusato (p131) Admire

Sardinia and the Bouches de
Bonifacio from up high

Piscia di Gallo (p144) A gentle

stroll to a dramatic waterfall

Sentier Littoral Campomoro (left)

Explore Corsicas wildest stretch of
coastline, with not a house in sight

Plateau du Coscione (p145) Just

you, an undulating plateau and
semiwild horses

pristine and beautiful coves and cala

(inlets) along the coast (and, incidentally,
escape the crowds). Sud Kayak (%06 14
11 68 82; [email protected]; 3hr tour 30), based
right on the beach next to U Spuntinu
restaurant, oers guided tours around the
gulf, with a focus on marine life, history
and geology. The three-hour excursion
is totally undemanding, and includes
swimming stops and a spuntinu (snack).
You might even come across dolphins
frolicking around your kayak; they are
lured to the area by an aqua farm that lies
just oshore.
Campomoro is also an obvious
launching pad for the superb dive sites
located at the entrance of the gulf. Sign

THE SOUTH

WATER SPORTS // GOING

BEYOND THE BEACH

G O L F E D U VA L I N C O

124

LE SARTENAIS

on with Campomoro Plonge (%06 09

95 44 43; www.campomoro-plongee.com) or Torra
Plonge (%06 83 58 81 81; www.torra-plongee
.com). Both welcome beginners and experienced divers, and can arrange baptmes
(introductory dives) in secluded coves.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Bonifacio via Olmeto, Propriano, Sartne and PortoVecchio in July and August (one daily service from Monday to Saturday from September to June).
PARKING // Theres a couple of parking facilities
outside the old town.

SARTNE (SART)
U SPUNTINU // FINE DINING
RIGHT ON THE BEACH

This well-regarded eatery (%04 95 74 21

99; mains 9-24, menu 19; hlunch & dinner Apr-Oct)

boasts a sping location, with a veranda

overlooking the beach. Its not all about
the location, however; the restaurant
produces Corsican food with modern
flair, including beautifully presented
salads, tasty pasta, fresh fish (at 6.50 per
100g, its a snip) and meat dishes cooked
brasero-style (on a small tabletop grill).

LE SARTENAIS
So traditional. So proud. So Corsican.
While only 13km separate Propriano
from Sartne (the most Corsican
of all Corsican towns according to
French novelist Prosper Mrime), a
gulf divides them. The Sartenais is
different to the rest of the island
more inward looking, more secretive,
adamantly steeped in tradition. The
fast-paced coastal life seems light
years away. Tourism has had little
impact; the area is a reminder of
what the whole of Corsica used to be
like. Dont miss it.

THE SOUTH

TRANSPORT
BUS // From July to mid-September, Alta Rocca

Voyages Ricci (%04 95 51 08 19; www.alta

-rocca-voyages.com) runs a daily bus service between
Ajaccio and Zonza via Porto Pollo, Olmeto-Plage, Propriano and Sartne. Eurocorse (%04 95 76 13 50) has
two daily services (one on Sunday) between Ajaccio and

pop 2500
If you want to see a slice of real Corsica,
be sure to squeeze Sartne into your sojourn. With high granite walls, tall town
houses, and narrow alleys that twirl you
unexpectedly into quaint nooks and crannies, the towns austere yet eye-catching
architecture combines with the natural
setting Sartne is perched high over
the Valle du Rizzanese to create an
unrivalled ambience. If you plan a visit in
spring, try to coincide it with the Catenacciu procession, a tradition dating from the
Middle Ages thats a definite must see.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04

95 77 15 40; www.oti-sartenaisvalinco.com; cours Soeur

Amlie; h9am-7pm Jun-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-6pm
Mon-Fri Oct-May)

EXPLORING SARTNE
More than specific sights, its the experience of ambling around the town centre,
with its cafe-lined square and fortresslike houses that will live long in your
memory.
OLD TOWN // FEEL THE BEAT OF
SARTNES HISTORIC HEART

The old town is an atmospheric labyrinth of stone stairways and little streets,
some of them so narrow that two people
can barely pass through. On place Porta,
you cant miss the bell tower of glise
Ste-Marie (1766). Next to the church is

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

the building that was the palace of the

Genoese lieutenants in the 16th century;
it now houses the htel de ville (town
hall). If you go through the gateway
below the former palace, you will come
out on the narrow streets of the Santa
Anna district, which is the real jewel of
the old town. Explore it at your leisure,
then head back to place Porta for a welldeserved glass of pastis Dami en terrasse
(Corsican pastis served on a terrace).
U CATENACCIU // IMMERSE
YOURSELF IN SARTNES UNIQUE
TAKE ON EASTER

On the eve of Good Friday, Sartne is the

setting for one of the most fascinating
religious ceremonies on the island the
Procession du Catenacciu. In a colourful
re-enactment of the Passion, the catenacciu (literally, the chained one), an
anonymous, barefoot penitent covered
from head to foot in a red robe and cowl,
carries a huge cross through the old
town, dragging heavy chains at his feet.
The catenacciu is followed by a procession of other penitents (eight dressed in
black, one in white), who are members of
the clergy and local notables.
When they are not in use, the chains
and cross of the catenacciu can be seen in
the glise Ste-Marie.

LE SARTENAIS

125

casgiu casanu (farm cheese) at the shop.

Local wines are available too. Its 8km
from Sartne.
AUBERGE SANTA BARBARA
%04 95 77 09 06; www.santabarbara.fr; mains
22-36, menu 34; hlunch Tue-Sun Jul-Aug, lunch
& dinner Jul-Aug, lunch & dinner Tue-Sun Apr-Jun &
Sepearly Oct

Send your taste buds into a tailspin at

this iconic restaurant serving authentic
dishes with a creative twist. Awardwinning chef Gisle Lovichi is a true
alchemist, with such delectable concoctions as daube de manzu tagliatelle (veal
stew with tagliatelle) or cte de veau
chtaignes confites (veal chop with preserved chestnuts). A respectable wine list
and exemplary service complete the picture. Its about 1.3km from the centre on
the road to Propriano; follow the signs.
Book ahead.

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
LA CAVE SARTENAISE
%04 95 77 10 08; place Porta; hApr-Oct

BERGERIE DACCIOLA

Its exceptional selection of local wine

makes La Cave Sartenaise an excellent
stop for tipplers. If its not crowded,
the sta will be happy to give advice (in
French) on the best Sartne wines to add
to your cellar. Theres plenty of other
Corsican goodies (charcuterie, olive oil,
cheese) too. Its right below the town
hall.

%04 95 77 14 00; rte de Bonifacio, Acciola; mains

8-15; hlunch & dinner Jun-Sep

U MAGGIU

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS

%04 95 77 21 36; Vieille Ville; hAprmid-Oct

The wonderful stalls positioned in front

of the cute granite facade are designed to
tempt the devil (and the photographer)
in you. And they do. Especially if you
add the shelves displaying rows of lovingly homemade jams. And honey. And
charcuterie. And liqueurs.

THE SOUTH

A mandatory stop for gourmands, this

produce shop set in a lovely granite
house on the Bonifacio road doubles as
a restaurant, using a charming terrace at
the back. How does galette la farine de
chtaigne (chestnut-flour pancake), followed by cheesecake with orange sound?
Dont leave without buying a pungent

126

LE SARTENAIS

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

AROUND SARTNE
PREHISTORIC SITES OF THE
SARTENAIS // WANDER AMID
MYSTERIOUS DOLMENS AND
MENHIRS

About 15km south of Sartne, the

desolate and beautiful Cauria plateau
is home to three megalithic curiosities
that rank among the most interesting
on the island: the alignements (lines) of
menhirs of Stantari and Renaju, and the
Fontanaccia dolmen. The Alignement
de Stantari consists of nine stones: the
fourth from the left represents a sword,
and its next two neighbours represent
faces with their mouths open in muted
cry. The Alignement de Renaju is larger,
slightly less orderly and 300m further on,
at the edge of a little wood. From there,
find the path to the Fontanaccia dolmen, about 400m away. This megalithic
monument is the largest of its type in
Corsica. Archaeologists and historians
seem to agree at least that the dolmens
mark burial sites. But what of the menhirs? Whatever their origins, they form
a mystical backdrop to a one-hour walk
through the area.

THE SOUTH

From Sartne, follow the road to Bonifacio for 2km before turning o onto the
winding D48, on the right. The megalithic site at Cauria is signposted to the
left after another 8km; take the D48a.
DOMAINE MOSCONI //
BUY A BOTTLE OF ROS IN A
FAMILY-RUN WINERY

After exploring the megaliths of Cauria,

you can stop at Domaine de Mosconi
(%04 95 70 49 42; www.domainemosconi.com; rte de
Tizzano), further down on the road to Tiz-

zano. This reputable winery produces an

excellent AOC Sartne, and has a large
tasting room where you can sample its
ross and reds; we love its Cuve Ariale.
Perfect for a picnic on a secluded beach.
HORSE RIDING // TROT ALONG
THE BEACH OR THROUGH THE
MAQUIS

For horseback trail rides in unspoilt

scenery, you cant do better than the wellregarded equestrian centre Cavadda di
Santu Pultru (%06 88 70 42 05; www
.randochevalcorse.fr; rte de Tizzano; 2hr/full day from
40/95). Emmanuel Lucchini leads excel-

lent excursions into the maquis that take

WORTH A TRIP

Valle de lOrtolo Promise you wont tell too many people about this timeless valley?
From Sartne, take the D50 to the southeast, in the direction of Mola. The narrow road
plunges downhill amid spectacular scenery mountains, vineyards, forests and fields. In
the middle of nowhere, the farm U Cavaddu Senza Nome (%04 95 77 18 47, 06 10 39 14 29;
www.ucavaddu.fr; Ranfonu, Ortolo; hFeb-Nov) welcomes visitors to a heavenly property. Your
hosts, a GermanAustrian couple (fluent in English), sell lgumes de saison (seasonal
vegetables) and delicious Alta Rocca honey (11 per 1kg pot), and children will enjoy the
farm animals pottering about. Bikes are available for hire (a perfect way to explore the
valley) and you can splash in the nearby Ortolo river. Campsites (from 17 for two people)
are available.
Afterwards, you could head to the reputable Domaine Saparale (%04 95 77 15 52;
www.saparale.com; hby appointment) for a wine tasting. Ah, the Cuve Casteddu

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

in the prehistoric site of Cauria, as well as

beach rides, during which you and your
horse splash straight into the turquoise
sea. The stables are on the D48, near
the junction with the road that leads to
Cauria.

LE SARTENAIS

TOP FIVE
CULTURAL SIGHTS

Pianu di Levie (p146) Wellpreserved megaliths near Levie

Filitosa (p117) Prehistoric vestiges

shrouded with mystery

glise Ste-Marie Majeure (p129)

Elaborate church in Bonifacio

Cauria (opposite) Menhirs galore

Porte Gnoise & Bastion de France

(p135) Ruins of an old Genoese
citadel in Porto-Vecchio

TIZZANO & AROUND

At the end of the D48, which peels o
the N196 about 17km to the north, another world awaits. Youll be smitten
by the mellow tranquillity of Tizzanos
charming little cove, which has thankfully escaped massive tourist development
due its relative isolation. Its also an ideal
springboard for excursions to a string of
staggeringly beautiful beaches and coves
that are inaccessible by land they beg
exploration, Robinson Crusoe style.
BEACHES // SWIM IN
CRYSTAL-CLEAR WATERS

Tizzano has a picturesque beach with

tantalising azure waters Cala di
lAvena but the 2km-long golden-sand
Plage de Tra Licettu, 6km to the southeast and accessible via a dirt track (or in
your own boat), is even more impressive.
Most importantly, its much less crowded in summer, making it well worth the
bumpy ride. But for total tranquillity,
consider renting a boat or a kayak to get
to even more secluded beaches.
KAYAKING & BOATING //
SAVOUR SECLUDED BAYS AND
BEACHES

(%06 10 61 35 10; www.stintu-marinu.com; hMaySep), based at the harbour, rents two- and

three-seater kayaks for 35 per half-day.

Another outfit is Aqua Mondo Location de Kayak (%06 14 23 50 93; hJulymidSep), on Plage de lAvena.
Renting a small motor boat is the
next best way to experience the pristine
coastline and beaches. Stintu Marinu has
small five-seater motor boats for 60/90
per half-/full day; no licence is required.
These boats can nudge into tiny inlets that
are denied to larger models. A map of the
coast is provided, as well as life jackets;
bring snorkelling gear and a picnic.
CHEZ ANTOINE THE BEACH //
REVEL IN THE FRESHEST OF
SUCCULENT SEAFOOD

An immutable seafood favourite thats

been around since 1960, Chez Antoine
(%04 95 77 07 25; Tizzano; mains 12-22; hlunch &
dinner May-Sep) is beloved by all who come

here. Brothers Julien and Flo know their

stu when it comes to serving lobster or
grilled fish (sea bass, red mullet or weever, depending on the daily catch; from 7
per 100g). The decor has been recently
upgraded, and its now a snazzy spot

THE SOUTH

Sea kayaking is a heavenly way to explore

coves and inlets inaccessible from land,
including Cala di Conca and Cala di
Tivella (to the west), or Plage dErbaju
and Plage dArgent (to the east), where
you can laze in idyllic surrounds, far
from the crowds bliss! Stintu Marinu

127

128

L E S A R T E N A I S T O B O N I FAC I O

with elegant furnishings and a breezy

terrace overlooking the harbour. Theres
a sushi bar downstairs.

LE SARTENAIS
TO BONIFACIO
From Sartne, the N196 wriggles
south to the Col de Roccapina, and
then veers due east to Bonifacio.
This is Corsicas far southwestern
corner, and the islands most sparsely
populated area. Rather than dashing straight to Bonifacio, its well
worth making a few detours from
the main road to explore this quirky
region. The rewards? Splendid views,
dazzling turquoise bays, hidden
beaches and bizarre rock formations,
all backed by rolling hills carpeted
with fragrant maquis and vineyards.
Looming majestically on the horizon,
the Uomo di Cagna (1215m) a peculiarly-shaped giant boulder eroded
by sea winds is a major landmark.

THE SOUTH

BEACHES // ON THE BEACH OR

IN THE WATER? YOU DECIDE

About 20km from Sartne and 30km

from Bonifacio, theres a lay-by on the
roadside, from where you can admire
the Roccapina site, a Dal-esque rock
formation that is (vaguely) reminiscent
of a lion. Theres a photogenic Genoese
tower on the hilltop above. The view
down to the shimmering waters of
Plage de Roccapina from the lookout
is seductive. The invitation to swim in
crystal-clear waters being irresistible,
take the potholed track, leading o the
main road next to Auberge Coralli, and
follow it downhill for 3km. The beach
is fine and sandy, making it particularly
suitable for children.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Some 20km from Bonifacio on the

N196, a secondary road leads from the
village of Pianottoli-Caldarello down
to the tranquil Plage de Kevano, which
tends to be less crowded in summer.
If youre action hungry or in search of
good photo ops, head to Plage de la Tonnara, about halfway between PianottoliCaldarello and Bonifacio. This windswept
beach makes windsurfing and kitesurfing
hounds go gaga. Even if youre not a water-sport aficionado, its hard to tear yourself away from the aerials performed by
windsurfers and kitesurfers here. Another
up-and-coming kitesurfing and windsurfing spot is Plage de Figari, in Baie de
Figari, a few kilometres to the northwest.
Want to give it a try? Contact one of the
outfits based on the beach.
DOMAINE DE MURTA // SHOP
FOR AN ORGANIC AOC FIGARI

Its a simple aair, but Domaine de Murta

(%04 95 71 00 34; hyear-round), whose shop is
right in the centre of the village of Figari,
has made a name of itself with quality organic wines. A bottle costs from 7.
POGGIO DI MASTRI // HEARTY
MEALS IN RUSTIC SURROUNDS

Bring an empty tum: the five-course menu

served at Poggio di Mastri (%04 95 71 02 65;
Figari; menu 40; hMay-Oct) is a culinary feast
based on choice pieces of meat the size of
doorstops, organic vegetables and preparedto-perfection desserts. The dining room impresses, with a huge fireplace, hefty beams
and wooden furniture, but the location close
to the main road is a disadvantage.
CHEZ MARCO // THE BEST FISH
RESTAURANT FOR MILES AROUND

Lobster is king of the castle at Chez Marco (%04 95 73 02 24; Baie de Figari; menus 55-99;
hApr-Oct). This is the place towards which

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

all heads turn when it comes to tasting a

bounteous range of marine oerings. The
location is ace, and theres a large dining
area with exposed wooden beams, stone
walls and lobster pots hanging from the
ceiling, plus a terrace overlooking the sea.

BONIFACIO
(BUNIFAZIU)
& AROUND

129

Corso and the Turkish pirate Dragut,

who aimed to liberate the town. Bonifacio resisted the attack for 18 days. Together with the rest of the island, it was
returned to the Genoese in 1559.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04

95 73 11 88; www.bonifacio.fr; rue Fred Scamaroni;

h9am-8pm Maymid-Oct, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-

Fri mid-OctApr)

EXPLORING BONIFACIO
& AROUND
THE HAUTE VILLE // LOADS
OF ATMOSPHERE AS WELL AS
MESMERISING PANORAMAS

Bonifacio boasts numerous historical

buildings testimony to its rich past
that are best discovered wandering amid
the narrow streets of the haute ville.
From the marina, the paved Monte
Rastello and Monte St-Roch lead to the
haute villes citadel via Porte de Gnes
(Genoa Gate; pedestrian access only). To
the north is the Bastion de ltendard
(admission 2.50;h9am-7pm Apr-Oct), a remnant
of the fortifications built in the aftermath
of the siege in 1553. It is home to the
Mmorial du Pass Bonifacien (Memorial
to Bonifacios Past; admission 2.50 h9am-7pm AprOct), where various episodes in the towns

history have been recreated. To the south

of the bastion are place du March and
place de la Manichella, with their jawdropping views over the limestone clis
to the east.
Dating from the 14th century, the
unmissable glise Ste-Marie Majeure is
famous for its loggia, under the arches
of which the notables of the town used
to gather. Opposite it is the old cistern,
in which the town formerly collected
rainwater from the many aqueducts

THE SOUTH

pop 2700
With its stunning setting, breathtaking layout and distinctly Italian
flavour, Bonifacio is indisputably
southern Corsicas star attraction.
The haute ville, which is a compact
mesh of twisting streets hemmed in
by ancient buildings, is dramatically
perched on a thin peninsula. Down
below, a fjord, about 100m wide,
plunges in behind the great cliffs to
form the towns fine natural harbour.
And the shimmering blue seas of the
les Lavezzi are a short boat ride away.
The flip side to all this beauty is that
Bonifacio is fiendishly crowded in July
and August.
The town as we know it today was
probably founded by the Marquis de
Toscane Boniface in AD 828, and was
taken by Genoa in 1187.
Genoese Bonifacio had to fight for its
life twice. The first occasion was in 1420,
when Alphonse V of Aragon laid siege to
the town for five months, on the grounds
that Pope Boniface VIII had given Corsica to Spain; according to legend, the Escalier du Roi dAragon (King of Aragons
Stairway) was carved at this point.
The second siege took place in 1553.
This time it was an alliance between
French troops, followers of Sampiero

B O N I FAC I O ( B U N I FA Z I U ) & A R O U N D

To Anse de Fazzio;
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TRANSPORT
Eurocorse............................................15 E3
C4 Ferry Terminal...................................16 B3
C3 Scoot Rent..........................................17 C3
C4
C4 PARKING V
Parking ................................................18 E3
ACCOMMODATION i
Parking ................................................19 E2
Htel des trangers.........................12 E1 Parking ................................................20 F3
Parking ................................................21 A4
Parking ................................................22 B3
Parking ................................................23 B3

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS @
Cantina Doria .......................................8
Kissing Pigs ...........................................9
L'Archivolto........................................ 10
Stella d'Oro - Chez Jules ................11

23 V
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16 D

EXPLORING BONIFACIO
Bastion de l'tendard ........................2 C3
Boat-Trip Booths .................................3 E3
Cistern................................................. (see 7)
Corsica Diving ......................................4 E2
glise St-Dominique ..........................5 A4
glise St-rasme ..................................6 D3

To Madonetta
Lighthouse (800m);
Grotte du Sdragonato (1km);
les Lavezzi (11km)

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
glise Ste-Marie Majeure..................7 C4 Htel Genovese................................13 B4
Tourist Office........................................1 B3 Mmorial du Pass Bonifacien ... (see 2) Htel Le Colomba............................14 B4

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Tre Punti (2km); Cap
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Grand Sprone (6km); Plage du
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BONIFACIO

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THE SOUTH

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130

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

running above the streets of the haute

ville.
Keep an eye on your feet as you climb
down the Escalier du Roi dAragon
(admission 2.50). Legend has it that the 187
steps running down from the southwestern corner of the citadel to the sea,
60m below, were carved in a single night
by the king of Aragons troops during a
siege in 1420. It is more likely that this
impressive scar down the side of the cli
was carved to allow access to a spring
discovered by monks.
To the west of the citadel is the glise
St-Dominique (admission 2.50), one of
the few Gothic churches in Corsica. It
houses reliquaries carried in processions
through the town during a number of
religious festivals.
Further to the west, youll pass by a
few windmills before reaching the eerily
quiet marine cemetery, with its immaculate lines of tombs and imposing
mausoleums, and the adjoining glise
St-Franois. At the western tip of the
peninsula, an underground passage dug
by hand during WWII leads to the Gouvernail de la Corse (Rudder of Corsica; admission
2.50), a rock about a dozen metres from
the shore with a shape reminiscent of the
rudder of a ship.
The tourist oce (p129) oers a pass
that allows entry to four of the citys attractions for 6.
BOAT TRIPS // VIEW BONIFACIO
FROM THE SEA

131

the mysterious Grotte du Sdragonato

(Little Dragon Cave), with its multicoloured seabed and shafts of light.
Numerous companies vie for customers in summer; ticket booths are located
on the marina. The companies also oer
longer itineraries focusing on the les
Lavezzi.
DIVING // NOSE TO SNOUT
WITH A CORPS DE BALLET OF
GROUPERS

You dont need to be a strong diver to

enjoy Bonifacios underwater riches. The
les Lavezzi the most popular diving
area feature a variety of sites suitable
for all levels, including beginners. At
Mrouville, divers are guaranteed to get
up close and personal with big groupers.
Barakouda (%04 95 73 13 02; www.barakouda
.com; rte de Porto-Vecchio), about 2km from the
centre on the road to Porto-Vecchio, and
Corsica Diving (%06 15 05 20 61; www
.corsicadiving.fr; quai Sennola) are two wellestablished dive operators. A single dive
starts at 35.
CAP PERTUSATO // WALK OR
DRIVE, BUT DONT MISS THAT
PERFECT PICTURE

The seamless view of the clis, the les

Lavezzi, Bonifacio and Sardinia from Cap
Pertusato is absolutely memorable. Its a
fantastic, easy walk along the clis; from
the signposted starting point, which is
just to the left of the sharp bend on the
hill up to Bonifacios haute ville, turn left
and a ramp of paving stones climbs to
the top of the clis. When you get there,
follow the path along the clis to the
southeast. There is low-growing maquis
on your left; to the right, a sheer drop
down to the sea. After about 30 minutes,
the path joins the D260, which leads to
the signal station and lighthouse, from

THE SOUTH

The best way to marvel at the towns precarious position on top of magnificent
chalky clis is to take a boat trip. The
one-hour itinerary (18) includes the
Goulet di Bonifacio, several calanques
(deep rocky inlets) with clear aquamarine waters, the Madonetta lighthouse,
the Escalier du Roi dAragon (above) and

B O N I FAC I O ( B U N I FA Z I U ) & A R O U N D

132

B O N I FAC I O ( B U N I FA Z I U ) & A R O U N D

where the views are phenomenal. Allow

three hours for the return walk. Theres
no shade. By car, take the D58, which
runs by the hospital; its signposted.
SENTIER FAZZIO // A WALKING
TRAIL WITH KILLER VISTAS

This is a much less hyped trail than the

one that goes to Cap Pertusato, which is
reason enough to do it. Beginning near
Htel des trangers, it takes in the Cala
Paraguan and the delightful Anse de
Fazzio, accessible only on foot, before
winding along the clis back to Bonifacio. It aords views of the Madonetta
lighthouse and the citadel from the west;
most pictures of the citadel are taken
from the east, from the path leading to
Cap Pertusato. Its an easy 2-hour walk
along a well-marked path, but theres no
shade. Pick up the Sentier Fazzio leaflet
at the tourist oce (p129).

THE SOUTH

LES LAVEZZI // SWIM THE DAY

AWAY IN A NATURE RESERVE

Part of a protected area known as the

Rserve Naturelle des Bouches de
Bonifacio, the les Lavezzi, or the
Archipel des Lavezzi (Lavezzi archipelago), is a clutch of uninhabited islets
made for those who love nothing better
than splashing in tranquil lapis lazuli
waters or strolling across powder-soft
beaches.
In summer, various companies organise boat excursions (adult around 33) to the
island; you can book at the ticket booths
located on Bonifacios marina. Boats are
operated in shuttle fashion, which allows
you to linger on the islands. On the way
back, the boats pass close to le Cavallo.
You will need to bring your own lunch
and drinks, as you cannot buy anything
on the islands. There are also trips to the
islands from Porto-Vecchio (p135).

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BEACHES // SEYCHELLES-LIKE
STRETCHES OF SAND

Bonifaciens favourite sunbathing place

(and the towns best-kept secret) is Tre
Punti (Three Points), a few kilometres
to the east, down the road leading to Cap
Pertusato. Reached after a 10-minute
walk from the road, these lovely coves
at the base of chalky clis oer excellent snorkelling and swimming in jade
waters, as well as stunning views of Bonifacio in the distance. Theres no sand or
shade, however.
Further to the northeast, between
Baie de Piantarella and Porto-Vecchio,
the jagged coastline is regularly punctuated by stretches of gorgeous white-sand
beach. From Baie de Piantarella, its an
easy 10-minute walk to the Plage du
Petit Sprone, a tiny turquoise bay with
tourist-brochure-esque appeal. Continue walking along the coast until you
reach Plage du Grand Sprone, where
you might spot a celeb or two, given
the vicinity of the ultraexclusive Golf de
Sprone hotel.
Plage de Calalonga is a bit harder to
find, but it doesnt get too crowded. To
get there, follow the D58 east of Bonifacio for 6km, from where youll need to
walk a further 200m down a sandy track
to the beach.
About 7km east of Bonifacio, the
Golfe de Sant Amanza is a hot windsurfing and kitesurfing spot and draws
a crowd when the wind is right. It also
oers excellent sunbathing opportunities, with a good range of beaches that
includes Plage de Maora, Plage de
Balistra and Plage de Sant Amanza.
All around the gulf, there are lots of
coves and beaches that arent accessible
by car (no crowds!); Pouss Vagues (%06
74 41 36 62, 06 07 94 25 82; www.poussevague.com;
Golfe de Sant Amanza; hmid-Aprmid-Oct) rents

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

six-seater 6HP motor boats. It will cost

you 85/115 per half-/full day, petrol
included; no licence is necessary. It also
rents kayaks from 10 per hour. To get
to the Golfe de Sant Amanza, follow the
D60, just o the main BonifacioPortoVecchio road.
The phenomenal horseshoe-shaped
Baie de Rondinara is home to the beautiful, sandy Plage de Rondinara, a saltwhite strip of sand lapped by turquoise
waters. As its backed by pines, youll
find it a gorgeous place to sun yourself.
To get to it from Bonifacio, take the
Porto-Vecchio road for about 16km, at
which point youll see a small turn to
the right.
KAYAKING // SEE THE BAIE DE
PIANTARELLA FROM A DIFFERENT
PERSPECTIVE

The lovely Baie de Piantarella ranks

among the best spots in southern
Corsica for water sports, including
windsurfing, kitesurfing and kayaking.
With a kayak, you can eortlessly reach
nearby Plage du Petit Sprone or le
de Piana, which are both blessed with
white-sand beaches. Bonif Kayak (%06
27 11 30 73; www.bonifacio-kayak.com; hMay-Sep)

rents kayaks from 14 per hour, and

runs guided kayak trips around the bay,
with a focus on flora, fauna and geology (adult 35). Find Bonif Kayak at the
eastern tip of the beach, towards Plage
du Petit Sprone.

CANTINA DORIA
%04 95 73 50 49; rue Doria; mains 8-12, menus

13-17; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat Apr-Sep

Success has done nothing to dull the

buzz at Cantina, an unpretentious, cav-

133

ernous little joint in the haute ville. The

menu contains invigorating dishes such
as porc la Pietra et chtaignes (pork
with Pietra beer and chestnuts) and lasagnes au fromage Corse (lasagne with Corsican cheese). Theres outdoor seating,
but get here fast to score a table.
DOMAINE DE LICETTO
%04 95 73 03 59; www.licetto.com; rte du Phare; menu
35; hdinner Mon-Sat Apr-Jul & Sepmid-Oct,
dinner daily Aug

Right in the maquis, Domaine de Licetto

has won plaudits for its gargantuan
menu: aperitif, Corsican soup or charcuterie, two main courses, cheese platter
(gastronomic adventurers will want to
try the casgiu merzu, which is crawling
with little white maggots), dessert, digestif and wine. Menu stalwarts include
agneau de lait (suckling lamb) and aubergines la bonifacienne. The food is
fresh and delicious, and the restaurant
strives to use only local ingredients.
KISSING PIGS
%04 95 73 56 09; quai Banda del Ferro; mains 1018, menus 12-20; hclosed Wed & Sun in low season

By the harbour, this trendy restaurant

and wine bar oers some of the best
charcuterie and cheese platters in town.
For the indecisive, the moiti-moiti (half
and half), which is a combination of the
two, is the prefect answer. Since Corsican
tipples also feature highly here, let things
rip with a glass of local ros (from 4).
LARCHIVOLTO
%04 95 73 17 58; rue Archivolto; mains 13-20;
hlunch Mon-Sat Apr-Jun & Sep, dinner Jul-Aug

This Bonifacio institution feels like

an antique shop, with an onslaught of
quirky collectables from floor to ceiling.
Foodwise, its no less impressive, with
salade de poulpe la coriandre (octopus

THE SOUTH

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS

B O N I FAC I O ( B U N I FA Z I U ) & A R O U N D

134

P O R T O -V E CC H I O ( P O R T I -V E CC H J U )

salad with coriander), lasagnes chvre

aubergines (lasagne with goat cheese and
eggplants) and a dozen other mouthwatering concoctions. In summer the
tables spill out onto the piazza outside.

cooked with cheese). Leave room for the

dessert du chef (homemade dessert of
the day) the dlice au Brocciu frais (a
pastry with Brocciu cheese) melts in the
mouth.

LA POUDRIRE

TRANSPORT

%04 95 73 53 63; mains 9-15; hlunch & dinner

May-Sep

Although its in the haute ville, the oh-socute La Poudrire remains a find
the crowds tend to flock to the eateries
that lie within the citadel. Located in a
former poudrire (powder store) near the
marine cemetery, it specialises in superfresh dishes made from ingredients that
come directly from small-scale Corsican
farmers. The tart with tomato and goats
cheese, the cheese platter, the tartine (slice
of bread) with goats cheese, fruits and
honey they all sing in the mouth. And
the views from the terrace are gorgeous.
LE GREGALE
%04 95 73 51 46; Plage de Maora; fish 6 per 100g,
lobster 13 per 100g; hdinner Jun-Sep

Fish lovers will be in seventh heaven

this well-regarded spot serves the freshest
of fish in rustic-chic surrounds. Depending on the daily catch, the menu may feature John Dory, sea bream, sea bassand
lobster. Its a family aair, with Mum, Dad
(the cooks) and two sons (fishermen and
waiters). So cute. Its slightly set back from
Plage de Maora, so there are no views.
STELLA DORO CHEZ JULES
%04 95 73 03 63; rue Doria; mains 15-26, menu
23; hApr-Sep
THE SOUTH

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Ask a Bonifacien for their favourite restaurant in town and theres a fair chance
that they will nominate Chez Jules. Set
in a former oil mill, it serves local specialities cooked to perfection; try the
aubergines la bonifacienne (eggplants

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

AIR // Figari Sud Corse airport (FSC; www
.figari.aeroport.fr) is 21km north of Bonifacio, near
Figari. See p266 for further infomation. Theres no public
transport to/from the airport. A taxi costs about 40.

GETTING AROUND
BUS // Eurocorse (%04 95 70 13 83) has two
daily services (one on Sunday) between Bonifacio and
Porto-Vecchio, Sartne, Propriano and Ajaccio in July
and August. From September to June, it runs one daily
service from Monday to Saturday. For Bastia, youll have
to change in Porto-Vecchio.
CAR // Come prepared: in summer, Bonifacio is such a
popular destination that it does to cars what a spiders
web does to flies.
PARKING // Use one of the few car parks dotted
around town (from 2 per hour) or find a hotel that
provides a parking space.
BOAT // Bonifacio is the main jumping-o point for
Santa Teresa di Gallura (Sardinia); see p269 for details.
SCOOTER // Scoot Rent (%06 25 44 22 82; quai
Banda del Ferro) rents scooters for 40 per day a good
way to avoid trac-gridlock purgatory in summer.

PORTOVECCHIO
(PORTIVECCHJU)
pop 10,600
Shamelessly seductive and fashionable, Porto-Vecchio is often dubbed
the Corsican St Tropez and its
no wonder. Sitting in a marvellous

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

bay, its the kind of place that lures

French A-listers and wealthy tourists. If youre looking to seriously
indulge, Porto-Vecchio has lots of
chic hotels and exclusive rsidences
de tourisme (condominium-style
accommodation), plus a well-established party reputation during the
high season. Although there is no
beach by the town proper, some of
the islands best, and most famous,
beaches are close by.
Try to come during shoulder seasons
if you can, when Porto-Vecchio reverts
to a charming, relatively low-key coastal
town. And if all that bling and bustle
overwhelms, the rustic Alta Rocca is
never far away.

ESSENTIAL
INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICE // Tourist oce (%04 95

70 09 58; www.destination-sudcorse.com; rue Camille

de Rocca Serra; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun
May-Sep, 9am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am12.30pm Sat Oct-Apr) Provides handy audioguides in
English.

EXPLORING
PORTO-VECCHIO
THE HAUTE VILLE // MOOCH
AROUND PORTO-VECCHIOS
HEART AND SOUL

135

BOAT TRIPS // ADMIRE THE

COAST FROM THE SEA

Monte Cristo (%04 95 72 01 04; www

.croisieres-montecristo.com; hMay-Sep) and Ruscana (%04 95 71 41 50; www.amour-des-iles.com;
hMay-Sep) oer promenades en mer (boat
excursions) to les Lavezzi and Bonifacio. The full-day excursion passes the
Rserve Naturelle des les Cerbicale and
beaches south of Porto-Vecchio, including Plage de Rondinara, before reaching
les Lavezzi, le Cavallo and Bonifacio
(weather permitting); its an ideal way to
gain an overview of the coasts delights.
There is a stop for a swim in a lovely little cove.
Both companies have booths at the
marina. The trip costs 60/30 for adults/
children and includes lunch.
HELICOPTER TOURS // THE BEST
WAY TO EXPERIENCE CORSICAS
GRANDEUR

Theres something to be said for the

birds-eye view especially when youre
gazing upon a string of idyllic beaches,
deep-blue waters and crescent-shaped
gulfs. Weather is a factor in how much
youll see, so wait for a crystal-clear day
if you can. Helisud Corse (%04 95 72 18 63;
www.helisudcorse.fr; rte de Bonifacio) has six different tours, starting at 60 per person
(10 minutes). For the full monty, you
can book a 90-minute flight that takes
in the Alta Rocca and the coast down to
Bonifacio.

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS
A CANTINA DI LORRIU
%04 95 70 26 21; cours Napolon; mains 13-28;
hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat May-Sep

This ever-busy place features a famous

produce shop (p138) and a restaurant

THE SOUTH

Porto-Vecchio is fairly short on sights,

but the haute ville, with its picturesque
backstreets lined with restaurant terraces and designer shops, has charm
in spades. The atmospheric rue Borgo
gives a glimpse of what the city was like
in earlier days. The ruins of the old Genoese citadel are well worth a peek
you cant miss the Porte Gnoise and
the Bastion de France (closed to the
public).

P O R T O -V E CC H I O ( P O R T I -V E CC H J U )

P O R T O -V E CC H I O

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

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RECOMMENDED SHOPS f
L'Orriu .............................................(see 7)
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Ruscana.......................................... (see 4) Terra Rossa .................................... 13 C2

9S

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS @
A Cantina di L'Orriu........................7 C1
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
La Terrasse .................................... (see 6)
Tourist Office................................... 1 C1 L'Antigu .............................................8 C2
Sous La Tonnelle.............................9 C2
EXPLORING
PORTO-VECCHIO
NIGHTLIFE ?
Bastion de France .......................... 2 D1 La Taverne du Roi....................... (see 6)
Helisud Corse .................................. 3 B5 Le Bel Ombra .............................(see 11)
Monte Cristo.................................... 4 B4 Le Patio ........................................... 10 D2
Plonge Nature............................... 5 B3 Shankbar...................................... 11 C2
To Figari Sud
Corse Airport (25km)

THE SOUTH

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ACCOMMODATION i
Htel Mistral ................................. 14 A4
TRANSPORT
Balsi vasion............................... 15 A1
Ferry Quay..................................... 16 D5
Les Rapides Bleus........................ 17 A4
Trinitours ....................................... 18 D1
PARKING V
Parking ........................................... 19 A5
Parking ........................................... 20 C4

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

next door. And what a restaurant! This

is the gourmet choice in Porto-Vecchio,
with excellent meat dishes, cheese and
charcuterie platters, homemade ravioli
with Brocciu, grilled goat with myrtle,
and great salads. Wine enthusiasts will
love the selection of local wines; dont
worry about having too many to choose
from, as many are available by the glass
(from 3.50).
LA TERRASSE
%04 95 70 47 98; Porte Gnoise; mains 15-28,
menu 34; hlunch & dinner daily Apr-Jun & SepFeb, dinner daily Jul-Aug

Tucked away in the Porte Gnoise, La

Terrasse is one of Porto-Vecchios top
restaurants. The menu focuses on fish
and meat renditions of Corsican staples
that sing in the mouth, and desserts are
divine. The setting is cosy and, best of
all, the views over the gulf are fabulous.
Needless to say, the accompanying wine
list is top class.
LANTIGU
%04 95 70 39 33; rue Borgo; mains 19-28, menus
18-23; hlunch Mon-Sat, dinner daily

You cant go wrong at this Porto-Vecchio

favourite, where the sun-drenched terrace overlooks the gulf. Sink your teeth
into a tender veal fillet or a succulent
braised pork tenderloin, but dont miss
the desserts the vanilla-poached Williams pear with gingerbread and Corsican honey ice cream provides a flavour
explosion.
SOUS LA TONNELLE

137

tones, this cosy eatery is a treat. In a town

where the bar is set high, Sous la Tonnelle still manages to delight diners with
a fine selection of fish and meat dishes. If
you want a recommendation, try the petti
morti (veal stew with olives, mushrooms
and maize flour sprinkled with grated
cheese and browned in the oven).

NIGHTLIFE
The superclub Via Notte (p140) is located to the south of Porto-Vecchio.
LA TAVERNE DU ROI
%04 95 70 41 31; Porte Gnoise

This intimate, inviting place tucked into

the Porte Gnoise features traditional
Corsican singing with guitar accompaniment on most nights. The show starts at
10pm.
LE BEL OMBRA
%04 95 70 52 21; place de la Rpublique

This busy bar has a wide terrace, great

for nursing a beer and watching life go
by on the square before you. Its a popular stopo for the preclubbing crowd in
summer.
LE PATIO
%04 95 28 06 99; www.lepatiocorse.com; impasse Ettori

The number-one nocturnal magnet for

the hip crowd, this spot sets the tone
with lounge music, a sleek bar and a
cluster of trendy gazebos on a square.
Its the sort of place that has a great atmosphere most nights of the week, but
youll also find it an excellent spot to sip
an alfresco cocktail during the day.

hlunch & dinner daily Jul-Aug, closed Sun & Mon

Sep-Jun

SHANKBAR

Whether you dine alfresco on a little

vine-clad pavement terrace or inside the
pretty dining room decorated with earthy

The Shanka is a typical avant-bote (preclub bar). Very popular and hip.

%04 95 70 06 53; place de la Rpublique

THE SOUTH

%04 95 70 02 17; rue Abbatucci; mains 13-25;

P O R T O -V E CC H I O ( P O R T I -V E CC H J U )

138

A R O U N D P O R T O -V E CC H I O

RECOMMENDED SHOPS
LORRIU
%04 95 70 26 21; cours Napolon; hMay-Sep

This treasure trove of regional Corsican

products is filled with hams hanging
enticingly from the ceiling and cheeses
sitting on the shelves, plus wines, jams,
sweets and terrines.
MARE DI LATTE
%04 95 23 03 34; 4 cours Napolon

This boutique stocking items by Corsican designer Stephanie de Peretti is

a popular haunt for fashion-conscious
ladies. Signature items include elegant
handbags, colourful scarves, stunning
robes in simple shades and sensational
too-good-to-get-wet swimming
costumes.
TERRA ROSSA
%04 95 70 04 35; www.terrarossa.fr; 18 rue du
Gnral de Gaulle

Its all about olive oil in this elegant boutique. It sells the highest-quality olive
oils from Corsica, of course as well
as olive products in many guises. Go
in, have a look and buy something its
impossible not to.

TRANSPORT
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

THE SOUTH

AIR // Figari Sud Corse airport (FSC; www

.figari.aeroport.fr) is about 25km from Porto-Vecchio,
near the village of Figari. See p266 for details. Theres
no public transport to/from the airport. A taxi ride costs
about 30.

GETTING AROUND
BUS // Les Rapides Bleus (%04 95 70 10 36;

rue Jean Jaurs) operates a daily service (Monday to

Saturday in winter) to Bastia (three hours) via Solenzara, Ghisonaccia, Alria and Moriani. It also operates a

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

shuttle service to Plage de Palombaggia and Plage de

Santa Giulia in summer (9 return, four daily). Balsi
vasion (%04 95 70 15 55; rte de Bastia) has
buses to Ajaccio via the Alta Rocca (LOspdale, Zonza,
Quenza and Aullne). Buses depart daily in July and
August, and on Monday and Friday during the rest of
the year. Eurocorse operates two daily services (one on
Sunday) to Ajaccio via Sartne and Propriano in July
and August. From September to June, it runs one daily
service from Monday to Saturday. In the other direction, buses run twice daily to Bonifacio (30 minutes) in
July and August (once daily from Monday to Saturday
the rest of the year). You can purchase tickets from
Trinitours (%04 95 71 24 64; rue Pasteur) or on
the bus.
CAR // Driving through Porto-Vecchio is a nightmare
in summer.
PARKING // Parking in the centre is almost impossible
in the high season. Use one of the few car parks dotted
around town (from 2 per hour) or find a hotel that
provides a parking space.
BOAT // Boats run from the ferry quay to Marseille; see
p268 for details.

AROUND
PORTOVECCHIO
SOUTH OF
PORTO-VECCHIO
From Porto-Vecchio, follow the N198
to the south and turn left onto rte de
Palombaggia (its signposted), which
winds around the coast. This is the
Corsican paradise youve been daydreaming about: stylish accommodation, fragrant maquis, gin-clear waters, long stretches of sand edged with
pine trees, and splendiferous views
over the les Cerbicale. Prepare yourself for soggy fingers and toes: youll
probably spend as much time in the
water here as out of it. Dont expect a

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

A R O U N D P O R T O -V E CC H I O

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Robinson Crusoe experience in summer, though this area is chock-full

of cars and sun seekers.
Les Rapides Bleus operates a shuttle
service to Plage de Palombaggia and
Plage de Santa Giulia in summer; see
opposite for details.

This is it that celebrity of all of the

beaches of southern Corsica, the Plage
de Palombaggia. Immense, crystalline

EXPLORING AROUND PORTO-VECCHIO

A Tyroliana................................................................................1 A1
Castellu d'Araggio..................................................................2 A2
Centre questre d'Araggio..................................................3 A2
Club Nautique Santa Giulia............................................ (see 15)
Domaine de Torraccia...........................................................4 A2
cole de Voile de Pinarello..................................................5 B2
cole de Voile de San Ciprianu..........................................6 B2
Genoese Tower.......................................................................7 B2
Kallist Plonge ......................................................................8 A4
Plage d'Asciaghju...................................................................9 A4
Plage de Cala Rossa............................................................10 B3
Plage de Cateraggio...........................................................11 B3
Plage de la Folacca .............................................................12 A4
Plage de Palombaggia ......................................................13 A4
Plage de San Ciprianu........................................................14 B2
Plage de Santa Giulia .........................................................15 A4
Punta di Benedettu.............................................................16 A3
Ranch Campo ....................................................................... 17 A3
Sportsica.................................................................................18 B2
GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS @
372 ........................................................................................ (see 10)
Costa Marina.........................................................................19 A4
Le Figuier ...............................................................................20 A3
Le Rouf....................................................................................21 B2
Ranch'o ................................................................................. (see 10)
Tamaricciu .............................................................................22 A4
NIGHTLIFE
Via Notte ................................................................................23 A4
ACCOMMODATION i
Chambres d'Htes A Littariccia ...................................... 24 A4
Htel Alivi ..............................................................................25 A4
Htel Le Pinarello................................................................26 B2
Les Bergeries de Palombaggia ..................................... (see 24)
Motel des Amandiers....................................................... (see 21)

and glossy, it doesnt disappoint the

bevy of swimmers and snorkellers who
dabble in its gorgeous, lucent depths
nor the loads of sun worshippers who
lay themselves out like sardines on the
ribbon of white sand. South of Plage
de Palombaggia, Plage de la Folacca
(also known as Plage de Tamaricciu)
is no less idyllic. South of Plage de la
Folacca, Plage dAsciaghju, which is
also very popular for swimming and
sunbathing, comes into view. Continue
a few kilometres further south over a
pass called Bocca di LOru and youll
come across another gem of a beach, the
gently curving Plage de Santa Giulia,
lapped by shallow, azure waters against
an amphitheatre of maquis- (and villa-!)
covered hills.

THE SOUTH

BEACHES // TAKE YOUR PICK OF

HIP, SECRET, SCENIC EXPANSES OF
SAND

139

140

A R O U N D P O R T O -V E CC H I O

Heres a secret: if youre after more

seclusion, head to Plage de Cateraggio,
which is often overlooked by visitors because getting there involves a 20-minute
walk through the maquis. The trail head
starts near Ranch Campo; youll need
to ask for directions, as the trail isnt
signposted.

de Cataraggio in the late afternoon? Its

a truly unforgettable experience. Contact
Ranch Campo (%04 95 70 13 27, 06 03 07
08 04; www.ranchcampo.com; rte de Palombaggia),
which oers guided rides for about 20
per hour.

WATER SPORTS // DIVE UNDER

OR FLOAT ON THE DEEP-BLUE
MED

Brimming with good cheer, this hip eatery (%04 95 70 36 57; rte de Palombaggia; mains
10-24; hdinner Aprmid-Oct) overlooking the
coastal road features excellent grilled
meat, fish dishes, pasta (the tortellini
with gorgonzola tastes divine) and pizza.
Top marks for wooden furniture and a
breezy terrace. Smart service too.

If just splashing around in turquoise

waters ceases to do it for you, there are
excellent diving options near the les
Cerbicale, a short distance oshore from
Plage de Palombaggia. Theres also the
photogenic wreck of La Pinella, close
to Porto-Vecchios harbour, which is
suitable for beginners. Dive centres
with good credentials include Kallist
Plonge (%04 95 70 44 59, 06 09 84 91 51; www
.corsicadiving.com; Plage de Palombaggia; hJun-Sep)
and Plonge Nature (Map p136; %06 64 43
26 04, 06 19 26 26 51; www.plongee-nature.com; av
Georges Pompidou, Porto-Vecchio; hApr-Oct). Both

charge about 55 for an introductory

dive; single dives start at 40.
The Golfe de Santa Giulia is a fantastic playground for windsurfers, sailors
and canoeists, especially beginners and
children. Club Nautique Santa Giulia
(%06 22 74 49 53; www.club-nautique.fr; Plage de
Santa Giulia; hJun-Sep), right on the beach

at Santa Giulia, oers windsurfer (16

per hour) and catamaran (from 33 per
hour) rentals, as well as windsurfing and
sailing lessons. Canoes and pedal boats
are also available (from 12 per hour).
THE SOUTH

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

HORSE RIDING // GALLOP

ALONG A SECLUDED BEACH

What about cantering or galloping along

a deserted Plage de Palombaggia in the
early morning, or the lesser-known Plage

COSTA MARINA // SMART

EATERY WITH AMPLE VIEWS

TAMARICCIU // THE TRENDIEST

PAILLOTE FOR MILES AROUND

This furiously fashionable paillotte

(beach restaurant) awash with teak fittings is right on the beach. The point
here is to see and be seen, and in summer getting a table on the terrace can be
a titanic struggle. How about the food?
Tamaricciu (%04 95 70 49 89; www.tamaricciu
.com; rte de Palombaggia; mains 16-32; hlunch
daily mid-AprJun & Sepmid-Oct, lunch & dinner
daily Jul & Aug) specialises in the greats of

Mediterranean cuisine: grilled fish (sea

bass, John Dory), meat dishes (lamb,
beef) and pasta, all beautifully presented.
The lunchtime menu also includes pizza
served bubbling hot. Service is brisk.
VIA NOTTE // CLUBBING ON A
GRAND SCALE

This is the hottest club (%04 95 72 02 12;

www.vianotte.com; rte de Porra) in Corsica, and
one of the most famous in the Med. With
superstar DJs and up to 5000 revellers
most nights in summer, it has to be seen
to be believed. Its in the open air and
theres even a swimming pool.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

NORTH OF
PORTO-VECCHIO
To the north, the coast has plenty to
set your heart aflutter: liberally sprinkled with perfect coves and grandiose
bays, turquoise waters and crystalline
beaches, its a powerful fix for any
beach addict. There are a few hidden
treasures in the hinterland too, including the Valle du Cavu and some excellent wineries.
BAYS & BEACHES // LOSE TRACK
OF TIME ON FABULOUS BEACHES

Theres an embarrassment of riches

when it comes to choosing a fine stretch
of sand. Take the N198 to the north.
After a few kilometres, turn east onto
the D468 towards the beaches at Punta
di Benedettu, Cala Rossa and Baie de
San Ciprianu. Punta di Benedettu is
small and low-key, Plage de Cala Rossa
has two excellent paillottes, and the immense Plage de San Ciprianu is a classic
beauty. Where else can you swim, snorkel, paddle, windsurf and eat fresh fish all
in one day?
Further to the north is the stunning
Golfe de Pinarello (Pinaraddu), with
its Genoese tower and yet more beautiful expanses of sand lapped by shallow
waters.
NAUTICAL ACTIVITIES // GLIDE
ON UNBELIEVABLY AZURE BAYS

141

Voile de Pinarello (%06 86 85 62 08; Plage de

Pinarello; hApr-Oct). The centres rent windsurfing equipment, catamarans, kayaks
and pedal boats. Private and group
sailing and windsurfing lessons are also
available.
Based at the southern tip of the Golfe
de Pinarello, Sportsica (%06 24 26 51 83;
[email protected]; Plage de Pinarello; hJun-Sep)

oers kayaking with a dierence. On

excursions around le de Pinarello (inaccessible on foot), the guide imparts
environmental and geological knowledge, and youll have the opportunity to
disembark on the island and make an
easy five-minute walk up to the Genoese
tower. The half-day tour (30) includes
swimming stops in secluded coves. Good
news for families: this outfit has tri-yaks
(kayaks built for three), ideal for two
parents and a kid.
VALLE DU CAVU // PICNIC IN A
LITTLE-TRAMPED VALLEY

Outdoor activities, emerald-green rock

pools and grandiose scenery are the
hallmarks of this little-travelled valley,
a few kilometres east of Ste-Lucie de
Porto-Vecchio. Walk along the forest
track and find a series of languid vasques
(natural pools) where you can lounge in
crystal-clear waters and picnic on perfect
stone slabs.
At the entrance of the valley, A Tyroliana (%06 18 40 44 39, 06 11 63 06 68; h9am5pm mid-Junmid-Sep) is an atmospheric parc
aventure set amid stately maritime pine
trees. With four circuits of varying difficulty (from 12), as well as a baby parc
for children (6), its a great way to commune with nature.
Cycling is a good way to explore this
scenic valley. Sportsica (%06 24 26 51 83;
[email protected]) oers relaxed rides on
the forest road along the Cavu river, with

THE SOUTH

Theres plenty to do in the Golfe de Pinarello and the Baie de San Ciprianu if
you want to get wet. Both gulfs are prime
areas for all sorts of water sports, including windsurfing, sailing and kayaking.
Recommended nautical centres include
cole de Voile San Ciprianu (%04 95 71
00 48, 06 14 67 91 55; Plage de San Ciprianu), 10km
north of Porto-Vecchio, and cole de

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A R O U N D P O R T O -V E CC H I O

swimming stops. Kids over eight years

are welcome. The meeting point is at the
parc aventure.
To get to the valley, take the D168a
and drive past the village of Tagliu Rossu.
DOMAINE DE TORRACCIA //
SAMPLE ONE OF THE BEST
CORSICAN WINES

A mandatory stop for wine lovers, the

well-established Domaine de Torraccia
(%04 95 71 43 50; Lecci; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat & 8am1pm Sun Jul-Aug, Mon-Sat 8am-noon & 2-6pm Sep-Jun)

produces top-quality, organic wines. The

Cuve Oriu (red, ros and white) is tops.
You can also buy the winerys excellent
olive oil.
CASTELLU DARAGGIO // TAKE A
LESSON IN HISTORY

For some cultural sustenance, make a

beeline for the prehistoric site of Castellu dAraggio (admission free), about
3km o the N198, high in the hills. This
small castle is less visited than the sites
of Cucuruzzu and Capula, but it is well
preserved and the views from the top of
the thick walls over the Golfe de PortoVecchio are spectacular. It takes about
30 minutes to get to the castle from the
village of Araggio.
The journey also makes for a great
two-hour horse-riding excursion
theres something magical about riding
up to the ruins on horseback. Contact
the friendly Centre questre dAraggio

THE SOUTH

(%06 14 58 66 25; rte de Gialla, Arragio; rides per hour

17; hyear-round), which has horses suitable

for all levels of experience, as well as for

children.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

mains 8-20; hlunch & dinner May-Sep) is a casual

hang-out with a light, satisfying menu:
dishes such as pizza and grilled sea bass
are flawlessly cooked and beautifully
presented. Comfy mattresses just in front
of the restaurant are a post-lunch-siesta
delight.
LE FIGUIER // MELLOW DINING
IN A ROUNDABOUT WAY

The location of this restaurant (%04 95

72 08 78; rte de Cala Rossa; mains 10-25; hdinner
daily, lunch Tue-Sun May-Sep) near a roundabout doesnt scream holiday, but the
soothing decor (granite walls, vegetation,
wooden furniture), mellow atmosphere
and food oer ample compensation. The
menu explores a range of options, from
truly finger-licking pizza (dont miss
Le Figuier, topped with cured meat and
mozzarella) and grilled meats to salads
and a dozen carpaccios.
LE ROUF // CREATIVITY AND
ULTRAFRESH CLASSICS

Of the row of eateries boasting lovely terraces overlooking the Baie de Pinarello,
Le Rouf (%04 95 71 50 48; Plage de Pinarello; mains
10-35, lunch menu 14; hlunch & dinner May-Sep)

has a hip touch that makes it stand out.

The gastronomic menu specialises in
ultrafresh pche du jour (catch of the day)
and high-quality meat dishes. The standard menu is a great combination of creative dishes (crab with avocado, semibaked
red tuna), and timeless classics such as
beef or fish tartare, pizza and salads.
RANCHO // CATCH OF THE DAY
BESIDE THE BAY

This upmarket paillotte (%04 95 71 62 67;

372 // FRESH FISH AND PIZZA
ON THE BEACH

A thongs throw from the Rancho, this

paillotte (%04 95 71 70 24; Plage de Cala Rossa;

Plage de Cala Rossa; mains 15-26, menus 24-29;

occupies a privileged spot on the beach if the wooden

terrace was any nearer to the water

hlunch & dinner May-Sep)

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

youd have to swim to dinner. It has a

good reputation for fresh seafood, particularly lobster and poissons du golfe
la plancha (grilled local fish), as well
as pasta.

LALTA ROCCA
The Alta Rocca pulls out all the
stops when it comes to dramatic
scenery. A world away from the
bling and bustle of the coast, this
is a spot where you can really feel a
sense of wilderness. Located at the
south of the long dorsal spine that
traverses the island, its a bewildering combination of dense forests
and granite villages strung over
rocky ledges. And theres the pice
de rsistance: the iconic Aiguilles de
Bavella. These serrated rock towers
are staggeringly photogenic.
The region also musters up a handful
of well-preserved megalithic remains
that are must sees for anyone with an interest in Corsicas ancient civilisations. If
youre looking for light adventure, there
are plenty of options, from hiking and
canyoning to horse riding and climbing.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION // Tourist oce

(%04 95 78 56 33; [email protected]; Zonza;

h8.30am-1pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Sat mid-Junmid-Sep)

In the centre of Zonza. Has some information and brochures, and a leaflet detailing walking trails in the area.

BUS // Alta Rocca Voyages Ricci (%04

95 78 86 30; www.altarocca-voyages.com) links Ajaccio to Zonza (three hours, daily) via Levie, Ste-Lucie de
Tallano, Sartne, Propriano and Olmeto. It also serves the
Col de Bavella in July and August. Balsi vasion

143

(%04 95 70 15 55) serves Porto-Vecchio from Ajaccio,

via Aullne, Quenza, Zonza and LOspdale; buses run
daily from Monday to Saturday in July and August, and
on Monday and Friday during the rest of the year. It also
serves the Col de Bavella in July and August. Eurocorse (%04 95 21 06 30) plies the AjaccioZonza
route via Olmeto, Propriano, Sartne, Ste-Lucie de Tallano and Levie (Monday to Saturday).
PARKING // There arent many designated parking
facilities in the villages of the Alta Rocca, so finding parking space might be dicult in summer. The Bavella area
is choked with cars and coaches in high season come
early to get a parking space.

LOSPDALE & AROUND

pop 30
If the heat and crowds of Porto-Vecchio
get too much for you, escape to the cool,
calm surroundings of LOspdale, 20km
above town via the winding D368. At
an altitude of about 1000m, LOspdale
is blessed with a fabulous location with
sweeping views over the Golfe de PortoVecchio. Its also close to the Fort de
LOspdale, which oers excellent walking opportunities and tranquil picnic
spots.
FORT DE LOSPDALE //
A GLORIOUS FOREST OF LARICIO
PINES

To see the forests treasures, youll need

to stretch your legs. Theres some good
walking around the hamlet of Cartalavonu, located right in heart of the
forest; to get here, take the D368 from
LOspdale a short way into the forest, then follow the road peeling o to
the left. The easy Sentier des Rochers
(Rocks Path), also known as the Sentier
des Tafoni, is an interpretive walk that
visits the tafoni (cavities) formed in the
rocks by erosion. Another superb option is the two-hour hike to the Punta

THE SOUTH

TRANSPORT

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L A LTA R O CC A

di a Vacca Morta (1314m), from where

the 360-degree view over the far south is
truly sensational.
If you want to see the forest from a
Tarzan perspective, Xtrem Sud (%04 95
72 12 31; www.xtremsud.com; Fort de LOspdale;
adult/child 22/18; hJunmid-Sep) has set up a

wonderful parc aventure in the middle

of the forest, just before the Barrage de
LOspdale when you come from PortoVecchio. There are three levels of diculty and, for the little uns (from the age
of three), theres a separate baby parc.
The parc aventure also features a lovely
via ferrata (literally iron path), which is
included in the admission price.
WALKING TO PISCIA

DI GALLO // WATERFALLS AND

FRESH SENSATIONS

This 90-minute round-trip walk to the

Piscia di Gallo waterfall, through pine
forests and maquis, begins near a couple
of snack bars beside the D368, 1km on
from the Barrage de LOspdale. The
start of the walk is marked by a signpost.
You cant descend to the basin itself because its too steep; youll have to see the
waterfall from a lookout.
U FUNTANONU // WHOLESOME

CORSICAN STAPLES IN
RUSTIC-CHIC SURROUNDS

On the main drag in the centre of

LOspdale, U Funtanonu (%04 95 70 47

THE SOUTH

11; mains 15-24, lunch menu 22; hlunch & dinner

May-Sep) sits snug in a dining room that

combines wooden furniture, beamed

ceilings and exposed stone walls with
more-contemporary fixtures, such as
elegant cutlery and virginal white tablecloths. Its the best place around to
try local specialities, such as terrine de
sanglier la myrte (wild-boar pt with
myrtle) and ravioli with Brocciu.

04-south-cor5.indd 144

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LE REFUGE // TRADITIONAL

FARE IN REMOTE CARTALAVONU

After a stroll in the majestic Fort de

LOspdale or a walk to the Punta di
a Vacca Morta, nothing beats digging
into a satisfying plate of petti morti (veal
stew) at this simple yet authentic inn
(%04 95 70 00 39; mains 15-18; hlunch & dinner
May-Oct), bucolically nestled in the forest

at Cartalavonu. There are no views to

speak of, but the scent of laricio pines
will impart an otherworldly quality to
your meal.

ZONZA
pop 1800
Somewhere youve seen that stunning
photo of a mountain village with the
soaring Aiguilles de Bavella as a backdrop. This is Zonza. Truth is, its hard
not to be dazzled by the fabulous backdrop and the uberscenic country lanes
that criss-cross the area.
A hub in the Alta Rocca, Zonza is also
an excellent place to base yourself, with
a good range of accommodation options
and eateries.
HORSE RACES // PLACE A BET AT

EUROPES HIGHEST RACECOURSE

About 2km from Zonza on the road

to Bavella, the Hippodrome de Viseo
(Zonza; www.hippodrome-zonza.fr) is the highest
racecourse in Europe (950m), and is very
popular among Corsicans from all over
the island. The racing season lasts from
early July to late August, with meetings
held on Sundays. If youre here on a race
day, its well worth joining the throng of
betting-crazy locals; the atmosphere is
festive and the setting ensconced in a
forest of laricio pines, with the Alta Rocca
mountains as a backdrop is fabulous.
For exact dates of meetings, contact the

3/09/2012 1:22:02 PM

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

tourist oce (p143) in Zonza or check

out the website.
AUBERGE DU SANGLIER //
DRINK IN QUINTESSENTIAL
ALTA ROCCA VIEWS FROM THE
TERRACE

Dont focus on the food in this no-nonsense eatery. Whats the pull, then, you
may ask? In a word: views. Auberge du
Sanglier (%04 95 78 67 18; mains 8-15, menus
12-22; hlunch & dinner mid-MarOct) boasts
an open-air terrace with pupil-dilating
panoramas over the mountain ranges,
best appreciated at sunset with a cold
Pietra in hand.
LAIGLON // PALATE-PLEASING
DISHES IN A TIMELESS INTERIOR

Old books, pictures, sturdy tables, a

fireplace and low ceilings keep the mood
convivial at LAiglon (%04 95 78 67 79; mains
16-23, menu 23; hlunch & dinner Apr-Oct). The
menu here has been thoughtfully and
creatively designed: titillate taste buds
with, say, the transhumance platter,
comprising grilled figatelli (liver sausages), chestnut polenta, tomatoes and fresh
Brocciu. Do keep space for the homemade sweet treats, though the moelleux la chtaigne et glace aux marrons
(chestnut cake and candied-chestnut ice
cream) is a marvel.

QUENZA & AROUND

145

CHEZ PIERROT // SOUTHERN

CORSICAS MOST IDIOSYNCRATIC
VENTURE

If youre after a typically Corsican atmosphere in the most tranquil location imaginable, look no further than multifaceted
Chez Pierrot (%04 95 78 63 21; Ghjallicu) run
by charismatic Pierrot, a local character
whos lived here since childhood. A B&B
(see p252), equestrian centre and restaurant, Chez Pierrot is particularly famous
for its table dhtes (evening meals served
around a shared table; dinner 23); the
unwaveringly authentic menu
including soups, charcuterie, veal or
tripe, cheese and homemade cake is
served in a staunchly rustic dining room.
Pierrot also oers fantastic horse-riding
excursions (about 15 per hour) to rarely
visited points around Plateau de Ghjallicu and Plateau du Coscione. Its on
Plateau de Ghjallicu, about 5km uphill
from Quenza.
WALKING ON PLATEAU DU
COSCIONE // FEEL TRANSPORTED
TO THE MONGOLIAN STEPPE

So bucolic. If youve ever fancied tramping on a carpet of cool moss, this is

your chance. Its exquisite! The Plateau
du Coscione, one of the wildest, eeriest and most tranquil areas in Corsica,
comprises undulating, grassy meadows
and pozzines (small waterholes linked
together by rivulets). Reminiscent of
Mongolian plateau pastureland, its
home to herds of semiwild horses and
cattle in summer. It makes for a fantastic
half-day hike.
With your own wheels, start from
Chez Pierrot. Follow the road for 6.6km
until you reach an abandoned building
that used to serve as a ski refuge (its
known as Bucchinera). Leave the car at
the car park and just follow the 4WD

THE SOUTH

pop 220
Like nearby Zonza, Quenza has a truly
photogenic setting. At an altitude of 813m,
the town is cradled by thickly wooded
mountains, with the Aiguilles de Bavella
looming on the horizon. The air here is
intoxicatingly crisp. This little charmer is
quieter than Zonza and is popular with
walkers.

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L A LTA R O CC A

track you cant get lost. Theres no set

itinerary; walk to your hearts content
following the tracks that criss-cross the
plateau.

LEVIE (LIVIA) &

AROUND
pop 720
With an interesting museum and a lovely
archaeological site amid superb scenery,
Levie is a good place to brush up on
your Corsican history. Another reason
to linger is A Pignata, possibly the best
farm inn in southern Corsica. Culture
plus nature plus good food a perfect
equation.
MUSE DE LALTA ROCCA //
SAY HELLO TO LA DAME DE
BONIFACIO

After a long-awaited renovation, the now

well-organised Muse de lAlta Rocca
(%04 95 78 46 34; admission 4; h9am-6pm
May-Oct, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat Nov-Apr) makes for

a perfect introduction to Alta Roccas

(pre)history, geology and culture. The
star of the exhibits is La Dame de Bonifacio (Bonifacio Woman), the oldest human remains ever unearthed on Corsica;
she is thought to have lived on the island
about 8500 years ago.

THE SOUTH

PIANU DI LEVIE // EXPERIENCE

PREHISTORIC LIFE AT THE
CUCURUZZU AND CAPULA
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

After a visit to the Muse de lAlta Rocca,

its time to go out in the field. Even
if your interest in ruins is only slight,
the enchanting setting and lofty views
are reason enough to come to Pianu
di Levie (%04 95 78 48 21; adult/child 5.50/3;
h9am-6pm Apr, May & Oct, 9am-7pm Jun & Sep,
9am-8pm Jul & Aug), about 7km to the north

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

of Levie. It comprises two archaeological

sites, the castelli (castles) of Cucuruzzu
and Capula, connected by an interpretive trail. Both feature well-preserved
megalithic remains. The Cucuruzzu site
is an interesting example of Bronze Age
monumental architecture. Set in a granite wilderness, the ruins indicate that this
was the site of an organised community
whose activities originally were based
on agriculture and animal husbandry,
but broadened during the later Bronze
Age (1200 to 900 BC) to include milling,
pottery and weaving. A 20-minute walk
from Cucuruzzu, the Castellu de Capula
is somewhat more recent, although it is
likely that Cucuruzzu was still in business when it was founded; it is believed
that Capula continued to be inhabited
into the Middle Ages. The admission
price includes the use of an individual
audioguide (in English) that brings the
castles to life with minilectures on, for
example, curiosities of Corsican nature
such as tafoni and the ubiquitous chestnut tree.
Allow at least a good 1 hours to tour
the site.
I FRASSEDI // TOP-QUALITY
CHEESE AND CHARCUTERIE
DIRECT FROM THE PRODUCER

You cant go wrong at this farm (%06

12 34 21 71) this is where locals go when
they want to purchase tomme corse
(semihard ewes-milk cheese) and goats
cheese (March to September), as well
as authentic cured meats (November
to April). Its perfect fodder for a DIY
meal at nearby Pianu di Levie. If you
come in the late afternoon you might
see Jacques Viti, the owner, milking the
goats. I Frassedi is about 1km before the
entrance of the Pianu di Levie archaeological site.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

ATELIER DU LOTUS // SEE

TRADITIONAL KNIFE MAKERS AT
WORK

Dont know what a curnicciulu is? Its

time to get a hands-on education at the
Atelier du Lotus (%04 95 74 05 13; www
.couteaulotus.canalblog.com; Levie; hMon-Sat yearround). Knife making is a Corsican tradition

that had its origins with the shepherds.

In this wonderfully authentic workshop,
you can see two young Corsican knife
makers hot forging, grinding, shaping.
All knives are handmade and incorporate
top-quality materials; prices start at 150.
Even if you dont buy, its worth a stop.
The workshop is signposted.
A PIGNATA // ENJOY A
GARGANTUAN CORSICAN MENU
IN LOVELY SURROUNDS

Youll need to fast the day before lunch

and dinner at A Pignata (%04 95 78 41 90;
rte du Pianu di Levie; menu 37; hdinner Fri-Sat &
lunch Sat-Sun Mar, lunch & dinner daily Apr-Oct) are

fixed seven-course menus. From velout

de potimarron la chtaigne (a creamy
soup with chestnut and gourd) and ovenbaked lamb to cannelloni with Brocciu
and cheese platters, this ferme-auberge
(farm inn) oers a stellar parade of local
dishes. Dine in a vast, rustic-style room
with a huge fireplace or, in summer, enjoy million-dollar views over the rolling
hills of the Alta Rocca from the terrace. A
Pignata is also an upmarket B&B (p253).

STE-LUCIE DE TALLANO
(SANTA LUCIA DI
TALL)

147

web of quiet streets, its higgledy-piggledy

stone houses with reddish-orange tiled
roofs, and its main square dominated
by ptanque players, this immediately
likable place couldnt be more Corse
profonde. Ste-Lucie is also famous for its
quality olive oil and, in March, the festival A Festa di lOliu Novu, draws crowds
from all over Corsica.
THE VILLAGE // MOSEY AROUND
A QUINTESSENTIAL ALTA ROCCA
VILLAGE

For a village of its size, Ste-Lucie has

quite a few monuments worthy of interest, including the well-proportioned
glise Ste-Lucie, and the Renaissancestyle Couvent St-Franois, an imposing
building scenically positioned at the
edge of the village on the road to Levie.
Dont miss the Maison Forte, a muscular
granite house built to shelter the population in times of danger; its behind the
church.
OLIVE OIL // SHOP FOR THE
PERFECT OLIVE OIL

See the green nets that are laid out beneath the olive trees on the outskirts of
Ste-Lucie? They catch the falling olives,
loosened from the trees with special scissors during the harvest in November.
The villages premier sight is the moulin
huile (oil mill).
Youll find a few shops selling olive
oil in the village, but they tend to favour
quantity rather than quality. Locals recommend buying the oil made by Nepita
(%06 87 87 04 28; www.nepita.fr), available
either at the picerie (grocery store) on
the main square or directly from the
producer in the nearby hamlet of Poggio
di Tallano. This olive oil (19 per bottle)
really is exceptional, and its organic to
boot.

THE SOUTH

pop 400
Another contender for the title of the
prettiest village in the Alta Rocca, SteLucie de Tallano is perched on a ledge
above the Valle du Rizzanese. With its

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L A LTA R O CC A

A FESTA DI LOLIU NOVU //

MINGLE WITH OLIVE-OIL
PRODUCERS AT A COUNTRY FAIR

Every year on the last weekend of March,

Ste-Lucie brings together olive-oil producers from all over Corsica. Up to 8000
visitors join in the fun, which includes
tastings and craft exhibitions.
CHEZ DUM // A SLICE OF
LOCAL LIFE

This no-nonsense eatery (%04 95 78

80 67; mains 6-15; hlunch & dinner May-Oct),
about 100m from the main junction,
wont provide culinary revelations, but
it is high on atmosphere. The terrace
is a good vantage point to watch the
ptanque players on the square.

THE SOUTH

COL & AIGUILLES DE

BAVELLA
For sheer visual pleasure, the Aiguilles de
Bavella (Bavella Needles) are unsurpassable. Jabbing the skyline at an altitude of
more than 1600m, these granite pinnacles resemble a giant sharks jaw and are,
unsurprisingly, an all-time photographic
favourite. About 8km northeast of
Zonza, they are best observed from the
Col de Bavella (1218m).
Within easy reach from the coastal
cities of the south, the Col de Bavella is a
big-ticket attraction in the high season.
Try to come in spring or early autumn;
in summer youll spend your time dodging fellow visitors and struggling for
parking. On 5 August, the Plerinage
Notre-Dame-des-Neiges a pilgrimage to the miracle-working Madonna,
whose statue stands at the col (pass) is
a hugely popular event.
Bavella and adventure go hand in
hand. Walking, swinging through a parc
aventure, rock climbing, canyoning, or

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

simply picnickingit can all be done in

the vicinity of the col. From the col, you
can make an astonishing 30km descent
to Solenzara following the D268; see
p166 for more.
ADVENTURE SPORTS // GET
ACTIVE IN GRANDIOSE SCENERY

Once youve had your fill of gorgeous

panoramas of the Bavella Needles, you
might want to explore the area in more
depth, and theres no better way to do it
than canyoning. Of all the stellar spots
for canyoning in Corsica, the Bavella
area tops the list, with three major canyons: Canyon de la Vacca, Canyon de la
Purcaraccia and Canyon de la Pulischella. Theyre all very atmospheric (and
refreshing!); you can expect rappelling,
various jumps and leaps into crystalclear natural pools, with the added thrill
of fantastic views. All canyons are accessible to beginners and children, provided
theyre reasonably fit. Canyoning outings
last about half a day and are guided by
a qualified instructor. Plan on 50 per
person.
Blessed with supreme granite monoliths, sheer spires, near-vertical walls, the
Bavella area is also a climbing hot spot,
with dozens of mind-boggling ascents
graded 3 to 8 (easy to dicult). For novices, theres also a falaise-cole (training
cli).
There are also excellent hiking options
in the vicinity of the Col de Bavella, with
well-marked trails suitable for all levels
of fitness. The most popular walk goes to
the Trou de la Bombe, a hole in a ridge
southeast of the col (about two hours
return).
In search of new sensations? Try the
parc aventure set up by Corsica Madness
(%06 13 22 95 06, 04 95 78 61 76; www.corsica
madness.com; per person 15-25; hmid-Junmid-Sep),

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

L A LTA R O CC A

149

about 2km from Col de Bavella in the direction of Zonza; look for the kiosk by the
roadside and the sign Corsica Madness.
The main draw is the sensational setting,
with the Aiguilles de Bavella forming a
perfect backdrop. There are three dierent circuits of varying levels of diculty,
but no baby parc for toddlers.
Major outdoor-activity operators include Corsica Madness (%06 13 22 95 06, 04
95 78 61 76; www.corsicamadness.com; Zonza), Corsica Forest (%06 16 18 00 58; www.corsica
-forest.com; Solenzara) and Xtrem Sud (%04 95
72 12 31, 06 18 97 03 46; www.xtremsud.com; Fort de
LOspdale).
AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA //
TRADITIONAL FARE IN A TYPICAL
CORSICAN INN

If you need to recharge the batteries after

all that exertion, this inn (%04 95 72 09
87; www.auberge-bavella.com; mains 9-17, menus
15-22; hlunch & dinner Apr-Oct) might just be

the ticket. Carnivores will find nirvana

here, with megasized cte de boeuf la
moelle (rib of beef with marrowbone)
and faultless local charcuterie. Its best to
come here for dinner to avoid the coach
parties in summer and, if the owners are
in the right mood, you might enjoy a
festive soire corse with guitar music and
Corsican songs.

THE SOUTH

THE EAST

3 PERFECT DAYS
DAY 1 // ON HORSEBACK IN THE HILLS

Exploring the Morianincu is like stepping back in time, so the best way to experience
it is on horseback (p158). Spend a morning in the saddle enjoying the cool green shade
of the regions chestnut forests, then switch to car or bicycle for a jaunt along the Corniche de la Castagniccia (p156) to the pretty little village of Cervione (opposite). Take
in the church and museum, or just hang out in one of the village cafes, before having
dinner at Aux 3 Fourchettes (p156).
DAY 2 // HISTORY AND HILLTOP VILLAGES

Take advantage of the cool of the morning to explore the ancient Roman site at Alria
(p163), then enjoy a leisurely lunch at the floating seafood restaurant Aux Coquillages
de Diane (p163). In the afternoon, escape the heat with a driving tour around the
pretty hilltop villages of the Fiumorbu (p164), perhaps taking a dip in the Abatescu
river at Catastaju.
DAY 3 // MESSING ABOUT ON THE RIVER

Wake up over coee and croissants at Solenzaras Glacier du Port (p165), then head
up the valley for some aerial fun and games at the Corsica Forest Parc Aventure
(p166). Spread a picnic lunch on the riverbank and spend the afternoon cooling o
in one of the Solenzara rivers perfect natural swimming pools (p166), then return to
town for a slap-up seafood dinner at La Fonderie (p167).

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TRANSPORT

151

CERVIONE
pop 1200
The liveliest of the Costa Verdes inland
villages, Cervione is special: the setting is
enchanting, with neat stone houses huddled around a cathedral, a small maze
of alleys and archways to explore, and a
main street lined with cafes on one side
and stunning views on the other.

EXPLORING CERVIONE

LA COSTA
VERDE
The Costa Verde, which stretches
south from Folelli to the Phare
dAlistro, and inland to the hill villages of Cervione and the Morianincu, has a lopsided charm. While the
coastal section of this microregion
is nothing to write home about, the
mountainous hinterland is dazzlingly
beautiful, with a series of villages
perchs (perched villages) strung
along forest-clad ridges, a fistful of
religious buildings steeped in history,
and glorious coastal panoramas.
Although its less than half an hours
drive from Bastia, this little-known corner of Corsica falls below the radar for
many travellers not that were complaining. Another pull is the smattering
of quality restaurants and cute chambres
dhtes (B&Bs), plus lots of easy hiking.
Bring a good map and start exploring.

LOCAL CHURCHES // RELIGIOUS

ARCHITECTURE, COLOURFUL
FRESCOS AND TRADITIONAL
MUSIC

You cant miss the yellow facade and

majestic bell tower of the Cathdrale
St-rasme (place de lglise), one of Corsicas
earliest baroque churches. Dating from
the first half of the 18th century, it boasts
an impressive black-and-white marble
floor, a magnificent baroque organ and
beautifully carved wooden choir stalls.
From late June to early September the
cathedral hosts regular concerts of choral
music and performances of traditional
Corsican polyphonic chants.
A hidden gem that is well worth a
detour, the Romanesque Chapelle SteChristine harbours fabulous frescos
from the 15th century, which adorn the
twin apses inside and show scenes from
the life of Christ. The chapel is about
3km from Cervione; take the road to
Prunete for about 500m, then follow the
signs for Cappella Santa Cristina. The
key should be in the door.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

MUSE DE LADECEC // LEARN

ABOUT THE ISLANDS RURAL PAST

TOURIST INFORMATION // Costa Verde

Tourist Oce (%04 95 38 41 73; www.costa

Housed in the 16th-century former residence of the bishop of Alria, the Muse
de lADECEC (%04 95 38 12 83; place du Muse;

verde-corsica.com; N198, Moriani-Plage; h9am-1pm &

3-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Jul & Aug, 9am-noon &
2-6pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun)

(Continued on page 156)

THE EAST

BUS // Rapides Bleus (%04 95 31 03 79; www

.kallistour.com) buses, operated by Corsicatours, run
along the east coast between Bastia and Porto Vecchio
(three hours), calling at Moriani-Plage, Cateraggio (for
Alria), Ghisonaccia, Solenzara and several other destinations; it runs daily in summer, and Monday to Saturday
between mid-September and mid-June. Bikes can be
carried for an extra charge. See p163 for other bus services to/from the Costa Serena and Cte des Nacres.

L A C O S TA V E R D E

p159

D15

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D517

D71

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Folelli

44

0
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La Porta San Giovanni

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La Castagniccia

D506

Feast on fresh oysters at Aux

Coqui ages de Diane

TANG DE DIANE

Exp ore the forested hi s on

horseback

LE MORIANINCU

0
0

10 km
6 miles

0
!

p163

p157

THE EAST

THE EAST

Drive winding roads to remote,

picturesque vi ages

LA CASTAGNICCIA

Samp e farm-fresh produce at the

Foire du Co de Prato

p161

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COL DE PRATO

THE EAST

152
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

p164

p166

66

19

64

34

80

19

98

Note: Distances between destinations are approximate

Solenzara

ia

Piedicroce

ia

45

cc

na

15

Gh

Al

ne

iso

Ghisonaccia

ce

32

oi

rv

Ce

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Cervione

DISTANCE CHART (KM)

Test your nerve on a thri ing

via ferrata

CHIS

Lose yourse f among the hi top

vi ages

LE FIUMORBU

di

Col de
Bavella

#
W \

0
Bavella

Col de
Larone

D268

D145

Conca \
#

Valle de la
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Canella

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N198

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Tarco

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" Anse de
3

p166

Find your own private poo in a

beautifu river

VALLE DU TRAVO

Tyrrhenian
Sea

Regu ar bus services cruise a ong the N198 coasta highway, but
for exp oring in and you rea y need a car. Roads here are narrow
and twisting, and often have ivestock roaming free. S ow down,
drive carefu y and re ax even with a good map you're going to
get ost a coup e of times. n high season, a narrow section on the
scenic D268 from So enzara to Bave a creates a traffic bott eneck
its best driven ear y or ate in the day.

GETTING AROUND

Soak up some of Corsica's finest

scenery

VALLE DE LA SOLENZARA p166

44
44

tang
d'Urbino

Ghisonaccia

#3
" Anse de
Favone \
Favone

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D845

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So

D645

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Samuleto \
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Ventiseri \
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Pietrapola

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Le
Fiumorbo

#
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Travo
Valle du
Solaro
Travo

#
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Parc Naturel
Rgional de la Corse

#
Chis \

Catastaju

San Gavinu
di Fiumorbo \
#

Isolaccio d
Fiumorbo

Prunelli di
Fiumorbo

di Nazza

# Poggio
\

#
St Antoine \

THE EAST

THE EAST

Pi
e

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
153

THE EAST

154

T H E E A S T G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

THE EAST
GETTING STARTED
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

Eastern Corsica moves at a slower pace than the rest of

the island. Although the N198 highway is fast, as soon as
you leave the coast you can kiss goodbye to fourth gear.
Though distances seem short, set aside a full day just to
see the main villages in Castagniccia, more to explore
the back roads. If you only have half a day for hill villages, then the Morianincu or Fiumorbu are better bets, but
remember to put aside a couple of hours just for wandering around, taking a short hike into the hills or lingering
over lunch.
TOP ACTIVITIES
HORSE RIDING IN THE COSTA VERDE

Explore the Costa Verde hills on horseback, riding cool, shaded trails that wind deep
into the chestnut forests (p158).
CLIMBING MONTE SAN PETRONE

Pull on your hiking boots and head for the hills, for a challenging climb to the summit
of eastern Corsicas favourite mountain (p161).
WILD SWIMMING IN THE SOLENZARA

Pack a picnic and wander the granite banks of the Solenzara river until you find your
own perfect swimming pool (p166).
CANOEING THE COSTA SERENA

Paddle a canoe along the Costa Serena coast to explore the tang dUrbino and Pinia
forest, or descend the last 10km of the Tavignano river to the sea (p164).
VIA FERRATA DE CHIS

Test your nerve on the Himalayan rope bridges, spiderwebs and zip lines of Corsicas
most thrilling via ferrata (literally, iron path; p166).
CHAPELLE SANTALESSIO

Enjoy an easy hike past 100-year-old chestnut trees to a tiny chapel with fantastic
views of the Corsican mountains (p160).

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

T H E E A S T G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

TOP EATING
EXPERIENCES

The coast is the busiest part of eastern Corsica to escape the crowds, head inland.

A MANDRIA DE SBASTIEN

Mountain villages Lose yourself

among the winding back roads of the
Castagniccia or the Fiumorbu and discover sleepy hilltop villages where time
seems to move more slowly (p159, p164)

Country hikes The hills of eastern Corsica are a hikers paradise every village
is a starting point for walks both short
and long. Pack a picnic and head for the
remote Chapelle SantAlessio (p160)

River swimming Discover your own

private swimming pool amid the smooth
granite slabs of the Travo river (p166)

Traditional Corsican cuisine in a rustic

cottage (p167)
LA FONDERIE

Gourmet dining near the marina (p167)

AUX COQUILLAGES DE DIANE

Eat oysters at a floating restaurant (p163)

AUBERGE DES DEUX VALLES

Try lamb roasted with chestnut honey

(p162)
AUX 3 FOURCHETTES

Homemade charcuterie in a family-run

restaurant (p156)
SANT ANDRIA

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Quality food with a quality view (p162)

There are a few local events worth thinking

about in advance.

RESOURCES

A Merendella in Castagniccia Festival celebrating regional cuisine, held

in Piedicroce over the Easter weekend
(p159)

March dArcarotta Every Sunday

in July and August theres a market
devoted to local produce at the Col
dArcarotta (p160)

Foire du Col de Prato Lively agricultural fair held on the last weekend of July
or the first weekend in August (p161)

Fiera di a Nuciola Hazelnut festival

held in Cervione on the fourth weekend
in August (p156)

Castagniccia (www.castagniccia.fr) Official

tourist office site for La Castagniccia

Costa Serena (www.corsica-costaserena.com)

Tourist information on Costa Serena

Costa Verde (www.costaverde-corsica.com)

Useful guide to the Costa Verde microregion

Cte des Nacres (www.cotedesnacres.com, in

French) Tourist info for Cte des Nacres

IGN 1:25000 Maps Map sheets 4349OT

and 4351OT are essential for exploring
the back roads and hiking trails of Castagniccia and Le Morianincu

THE EAST

GETTING AWAY
FROM IT ALL

155

156

L A C O S TA V E R D E

(Continued from page 151)

THE EAST

adult/child 4/3; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat) is

dedicated to traditional Corsican culture,

and oers a fascinating insight into the
island way of life in the 19th and early
20th centuries. The highlights include an
exhibition on winemaking and distilling,
and a re-creation of a blacksmiths forge.
CORNICHE DE LA
CASTAGNICCIA // SOAK UP
THE SCENERY ALONG THIS
SPECTACULAR ROAD

The D330 road, known as the Corniche

de la Castagniccia, threads for 5km across
the mountainside from Cervione to San
Nicolao. Whether you walk, cycle or
drive, it oers a superb panorama over the
coastal plain and the sea before reaching
the ribbonlike Cascade de lUcelluline,
about 1.5km before San Nicolao. Nestled
in a gorge between two road tunnels, the
falls mark the start of an exciting canyoning descent, and are spectacularly floodlit
at night in July and August. The waterfalls name comes from the Corsican word
for fledgling, a reference to the hundreds
of crag martins that build their nests on
the surrounding clis in early summer.
About 20m past the bridge (heading
towards San Nicolao), a steep, narrow
path on the left leads up to a shady nook
beside the stream, overlooking the bridge
down below the perfect spot for a picnic with a view.
HAZELNUTS // GO NUTS ABOUT
THE LOCAL DELICACY

After three successive years of hard frosts

wiped out the local citrus orchards in
190507, the fruit growers of Cervione
turned to la noisette (the hazelnut) for
salvation, and by the 1940s the plump
and flavoursome noisettes de Cervione

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

were much in demand among French

ptissiers, restaurateurs and gourmands.
The industry tailed o after WWII
but has been revived in recent years;
since 2000 it has been celebrated annually in the Fiera di a Nuciola (Fte de
la Noisette, Hazelnut Festival). During
the fourth weekend in August the place
de lglise and La Traverse are crowded
with stalls displaying the wares of local producers and artisans roasted
hazelnuts, hazelnut oil, hazelnut paste,
hazelnut flour, and countless cakes, candies and pastries and there are tastings
in the town hall, concerts in the church,
and folk music and kids events in the
streets, all rounded o with a fireworks
display on Sunday night.
If you cant make it for the festival,
you can buy hazelnut-based goodies
(and other local foodstus) at Buttega
di lArtisgiani di Cervioni (place de lglise;
h10.30am-12.30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat).

GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS
AUX 3 FOURCHETTES
%04 95 38 14 86; place de lglise; mains 8-13,
menu 15; hlunch & dinner

Tucked beneath the cathedral (literally the rustic dining room is in a

vault beneath the cathedral floor), this
friendly family-run restaurant serves up
hearty local fare such as wild boar stew,
pork cutlets with butter beans, chestnut
fritters, and fruit from the garden, as
well as homemade charcuterie, wine
and eau-de-vie. Grab a table on the cute
little vine-shaded terrace beside the
square.
U CASONE
%04 95 38 10 47; o place de lglise; mains 5-17,
menus 12.50-20; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun

Along an alley o the village square, with

a terrace shaded by a huge lime tree,

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LE MORIANINCU
The Morianincu the hinterland of
Plage-Moriani is a region of verdant
forests and muscular mountains studded with a succession of picturesque
villages. The villages austere facades,
elegant bell towers and higgledypiggledy schist-slab rooftops preside
over an arresting landscape of dense
chestnut groves and rippling hills, with
the sapphire-blue sea forming a perfect
backdrop.
MORIANINCU VILLAGES //
WINDING BACK ROADS AND
PEACEFUL VILLAGES

The sleepy villages of the Morianincu are

a perfect place to get o the beaten track,
to slow down, wander at will and enjoy
the expansive, ever-changing views.
As the D34 zigzags up from MorianiPlage to San Nicolao, it passes through
a picturesque village cemetery crammed
with templelike family tombs and
watched over by a beautiful baroque bell
tower. The village itself is dotted with
photos dating from the late 19th and
early 20th centuries, displayed in the
actual locations where they were originally taken, and oers grand views over
the coast.
The lower of the two roads leading
north from San Nicolao takes you to the
scattered hamlets of Santa Lucia di Mo-

157

ACCOMMODATION
The east coast is lined with campsites
and holiday villages, but the best of the
regions accommodation is inland in the
chambres dhotes (B&Bs) and gtes (selfcontained cottages) of La Castagniccia
and Fiumorbu. See the Accommodation chapter for a list of recommended
options. The following are some of our
favourites:

Go green at the ecofriendly gtes of U

Paesolu a Suvera a u ventu (p253)

Lost in an ocean of greenery, the

Chambres dHtes La Diligence
(p254) is a true get-away-from-it-all
destination

A Tuscan-style villa perched on a

hilltop, the Villa Clotilde (p255)
offers peace, solitude and panoramic
views

riani, precariously perched on a ridge,

from where a road climbs even more tortuously up to San Giovanni di Moriani.
The slender 33m-high bell tower of the
church of St-Jean-Lvangliste is one
of the tallest in Corsica, towering over a
bucolic scene of chestnut trees, scattered
tombs and grazing horses; it also marks
the starting point for San Giovannis
botanical trail (below).
Continue uphill through the hamlets
of Serrale and Cioti then turn right and
follow the D34 to its end at Santa Reparata di Moriani, where a remote gte
dtape (walkers lodge) caters to hikers
in search of peace and solitude.
BOTANICAL TRAIL // LEARN
ABOUT LOCAL PLANT LIFE AS YOU
HIKE

Pick up an information leaflet (available

in English) from the tourist oce at

THE EAST

this pleasant little restaurant oers a

menu that ranges from pizzas (from 5!)
expertly cooked in a wood-fired oven
to palate-pleasing fish and meat dishes.
Tuck into a grilled cte de buf (beef
rib), or enjoy the rich, gamey flavour of
traditional Corsican terrine de sansonnet aux myrtes (starling pt with myrtle
berries).

L A C O S TA V E R D E

158

L A C O S TA V E R D E

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

THE EAST

TOP FIVE
SWIMMING SPOTS
The beaches along the east coast are a little lacking in the charm department, but that
doesnt mean missing out on a cool dip on a hot afternoon. The regions rivers tumble
from the hills in a cascade of perfect swimming pools.

Cascade de lUcelluline (p156) Waterfall pools for the adventurous

Pont de lEnfer (below) Shady picnic spots and shallow water safe for kids to splash
about in

Catastaju (p164) A deep-green rock pool close to good day hikes and an isolated
gte dtape (walkers lodge)

Valle du Travo (p166) Golden granite and sparkling green water in a remote valley
where adventurous swimmers can seek out their own secluded spot

Valle de la Solenzara (p166) Take your pick of expansive river pools, some with
tiny coarse-sand beaches

Moriani-Plage (p151), park the car at

San Giovanni di Morianis church, and
set o on this hike (waymarked with red
paint and Sentier Botanique signs) lined
with little signs that help you to identify
more than 50 species of native Corsican
trees, shrubs and flowers. The route
climbs up through the hamlet of Cioti,
where you can sample the local goatsmilk cheese, and on to the Chapelle San
Mamilianu, perched on a ridge, before
descending through the woods to Serrale and heading back to the church.
Take your binoculars theres a chance
of spotting a golden eagle.
The total distance is 4.5km, with
a height gain of 300m; allow three
hours. You can make the route shorter
by turning right along the road when
you reach Cioti. Continue to Serrale,
the next hamlet, and look out for the
Sentier Botanique sign pointing up a
stepped alley on the right. From here
the path descends a staircase into the
woods, where you follow the red paint
marks back to your starting point (2km,
one hour).

PONT DE LENFER //
PICNIC BESIDE A SHADED
SWIMMING HOLE

Two kilometres north of Santa Lucia

di Moriani, the narrow, potholed D330
(signposted Poggio-Mezzana) arrives
at the Pont de lEnfer (Hells Bridge).
Here the little Canapajo river has been
dammed with stones to create a long,
natural bathing pool, its banks shaded
by walnut, chestnut and alder trees. The
shallow water and lack of strong current
make it a popular picnic spot for local
families, and there are deeper pools to be
discovered upstream from the bridge.
LES CURIES DE LA COSTA
VERDE // CANTER THROUGH THE
CHESTNUT FORESTS

Leave the car behind for a bit and try exploring the chestnut forests of the Morianincu at a gentler pace. The riding centre Les curies de la Costa Verde (%04
95 30 64 39, 06 14 55 89 01; http://ecuriescostaverde
.free.fr, in French), at the northern approach

to Moriani-Plage, oers two-hour guided

horseback trips through the woods to the

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LA
CASTAGNICCIA
La Castagniccia (kas-tan-yeetch),
derived from the Italian word for
chestnut, owes its name to the Genoese, who planted the first chestnut
trees here in the 16th century. Since
then, chestnuts whether roasted
and made into a sweet paste, or
dried and ground into flour have
been at the heart of the regions
economy. This is Corsica at its
most rural and remote, with majestic mountains and lush valleys,
tiny villages and hillsides shaggy
with broad-leaved chestnut trees,
all linked by a network of narrow,
winding roads
But scenery is not the only drawcard.
The Castagniccia is also of strong historical and cultural interest it was the
birthplace of Pascal Paoli, father of Corsica with beautiful baroque churches,
historic chapels and convents, and lively
fairs and festivals. Here, old traditions
die hard, making it a fascinating introduction to the lifestyle of rural Corsica.

ESSENTIAL
INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION // Castagniccia
Tourist Oce (%04 95 35 82 54; www.corso

rezza.com; Piedicroce; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) In the

alley above the fountain.

159

EXPLORING LA
CASTAGNICCIA
PIEDICROCE // CHILL OUT IN
CASTAGNICCIAS CAPITAL

Straddling the crossroads of Castagniccias principal routes, the charming

village of Piedicroce enjoys wonderful
panoramas of the surrounding valleys.
The glise Sts Pierre et Paul a colourful Baroque confection thats home
to Corsicas oldest church organ is
worth a look, but the main attraction
is simply hanging out and enjoying
scenery.
Stop for a beer or a hearty lunch at
Le Refuge (%04 95 35 82 65; mains 10, menu
17; hlunch & dinner Apr-Oct), whose terrace
oers a fine panorama of the village of
Carcheto, perched on a neighbouring
ridge, with Carpineto poking through
the forest in the background.
About 1km to the north on the D71
(towards Campana), the ruins of the
Couvent dOrezza, a Franciscan monastery founded in 1453, exude an eerie
atmosphere. Once one of the most important religious centres in Corsica, the
monastery was the spot where Pascal
Paoli met Napolon Bonaparte in 1790.
During WWII it was used as a hiding
place by the Resistance, and was blown
up by German troops in 1943.
If youre here in Piedicroce on the
Easter weekend, you can join in the
festivities of A Merendella in Castagniccia, when local producers of charcuterie,
chestnuts, cheese and other delicacies
oer the chance to sample their wares;
there are also craft stalls selling handcarved chestnut wood and horn implements, cafe tables set up around the
church, and folk singers performing in
the streets. Details are available from the
tourist oce.

THE EAST

village of San Giovanni di Moriani (30;

experienced riders in the mornings, beginners in the afternoons); it also oers
exhilarating gallops along the beach at
Moriani-Plage. For the little uns (aged 3
years and over), pony rides are available
(12 per hour).

L A C A S TA G N I CC I A

THE EAST

160

L A C A S TA G N I CC I A

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

EAUX DOREZZA // SAMPLE

CORSICAS FAVOURITE MINERAL
WATER AT SOURCE

COL DARCAROTTA // SHOP FOR

LOCAL GOODIES AT A SUMMER
MARKET

From Piedicroce its an easy drive

downhill along the D506 to Eaux
dOrezza (%04 95 39 10 00; www.orezza.com;

The D146 winds slowly up to the Col

dArcarotta (819m), which is famous
for its market, held every Sunday in July
and August. Hundreds of visitors gather
to browse stalls selling everything from
locally produced charcuterie, cheese,
chestnut biscuits and raspberries to items
carved from the ornamental green stone
known as vert dOrezza. The Auberge des
Deux Valles (p162), which has a terrace
that provides a spectacular view across
the valley, is also located here.

admission free; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm

Aprmid-Oct, 8am-6pm Wed-Sun mid-OctMar), a

former 19th-century spa where mineral water is still bottled. Known since
Roman times, the naturally sparkling
spring waters are so rich in iron that
some of it has to be removed before bottling the raw stu bubbling through
the fountain at the gates has a distinct
metallic tang. Prebooked guided tours
are available for groups of 10 or more,
but individuals are free to wander in the
lovely landscaped grounds.
CARCHETO // EXPLORE AN
ANCIENT CASTAGNICCIA
VILLAGE

Carcheto is the pretty village perch that

dominates the view from Piedicroce.
Check out the prominent bell tower
marking its glise Ste-Marguerite, one
of Corsicas most interesting churches.
The 17th-century building is adorned
with baroque stucco and trompe lil,
plus a series of frescos painted by local
artists in naive style. The village itself
includes several fortified tower houses
that date back to the 13th century, some
of which have been restored and converted to holiday gtes (see p254).
Another reason to pause in Carcheto
is to pay a visit to the lovely waterfall
that lies a couple of hundred metres
down a path leading from the place de
lglise (its signposted Cascade). The
ribbonlike fall ends in a perfect, circular
rock pool draped with greenery; its a
simply wonderful place to take a refreshing dip.

CHAPELLE SANTALESSIO //
HIKE AMONG 100-YEAR-OLD
CHESTNUT TREES

This isolated little chapel above the

village of Ortale makes a good objective for an easy hike. The shady path
follows a line of ancient, huge-girthed
chestnut trees before breaking out into
the maquis; at the chapel you can enjoy
a picnic with breathtaking views that
stretch from the sea on one side to Monte San Petrone on the other.
Start just past the last buildings at
the uphill end of the village of Valle
dAlesani; theres a small parking place
on the left and a fountain on the right.
The easy-to-follow path, marked with
orange paint splashes, climbs up to the
right of the fountain. The round trip is
3.5km, and should take 1 hours.
LA PORTA // CHURCH
ARCHITECTURE AND
CHARCUTERIE

Another lovely settlement in the heart

of the Castagniccia, La Porta is famed
for its 17th-century glise St-Jean Baptiste, one of the most beautiful baroque
churches in Corsica. The overblown

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

L A C A S TA G N I CC I A

10-18, menus 15-25; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun

Mar-Dec, lunch Sep-Jun) is a typically Corsican

restaurant de village (village eatery). The

menu adheres to tried-and-true classics,
such as veal stew, lamb, cannelloni, pastas and salads, and the terrace at the back
has a lovely view down the valley.
You can stock up on Corsican delicacies, including charcuterie, jams and
canistrelli (biscuits made with almonds,
walnuts, lemon or aniseed) at Casi di
Cornu (%04 95 39 23 91), a tiny produce
shop in Stoppia Nova, about 5km from
La Porta on the road to the Col de Prato.
FOIRE DU COL DE PRATO //
MINGLE WITH LOCAL FARMERS
AT A COUNTRY FAIR

Every year on the last weekend in July or

the first weekend of August, the Col de
Prato, between La Porta and Morosaglia,
is given over to this popular festival,
which brings together local farmers ex-

hibiting their prize sheep, goats and pigs;

producers oering tastings of charcuterie,
cheese and honey; and artisans selling
jewellery, books and clothing. Up to 8000
visitors join in the fun, which includes
childrens games, poetry recitals, and
performances of traditional music and
dance, plus a boules competition and a
race to the summit of Monte San Petrone.
On the Sunday morning a wooden
figure of St Peter is carried in procession
to the ruined 16th-century glise de San
Petro dAccia, perched on a ridge 1.5km
south of the col (pass).
MONTE SAN PETRONE //
CLIMB TO THE SUMMIT OF
CASTAGNICCIAS FAVOURITE
MOUNTAIN

If you want to work o any extra pounds

gained in the areas fine restaurants, you
can tackle Monte San Petrone (1767m),
the highest peak in the Castagniccia. The
summit is crowned with a crucifix and a
little statue of St Peter, and is one of the
finest viewpoints in Corsica, with the
whole of the central range of mountains
on one horizon, and the islands of the
Tuscan archipelago on the other.

WORTH A TRIP

For many Corsicans, the village of Morosaglia, on the western edge of the Castagniccia,
is almost talismanic: its revered as the birthplace of the Babbu di a Patria (Father of the
Nation), Pascal Paoli (see the boxed text, p193). When his remains were returned to his
home village on 3 September 1889 (he died in exile in Britain in 1801), villagers lined the
route to pay their respects. The house where he was born, the Maison Natale de Pascal
Paoli (%04 95 61 04 97; rte Principale; adult/child 2/1; h9am-5pm) oers an insight into the life of
the Corsican hero through paintings, costumes and personal letters.
For lunch, you cant miss Osteria di U Cunventu (%04 95 47 11 79; mains 10-22;
hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon), a charming eatery on the main street offering a blackboard
menu of seasonal delights. Regular dishes to look out for include grilled prawns
flambed in Corsican eau-de-vie, and the generous Corsican salad with a bit of everything. Theres a small terrace blessed with lovely views over the hills.

THE EAST

splendour of its facade and majestic bell

tower, 45m in height, is matched inside
by a superb church organ and various
well-preserved paintings.
If youre feeling peckish, Chez lisabeth LAmpugnani (%04 95 39 22 00; mains

161

THE EAST

162

C O S TA S E R E N A & C T E D E S N AC R E S

The normal route begins at the Col

de Prato, from where a forest road runs
south through shady beech woods before a final short, steep climb up to the
rocky summit. Alternatively, you can
start from the hamlet of Campodonico;
from here the route is shorter, but its
also steeper and lacks shade. Plan on five
to six hours for the 12km round trip on
either route. The route is technically easy
but fairly long, so youll need a reasonable level of fitness.

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS
AUBERGE DES DEUX VALLES //
COL DARCAROTTA
%04 95 35 91 20; mains 11-16, menus 17-27;
hlunch & dinner mid-Junmid-Sep

Perched on the ridge between the valleys

of Orezza and Alesani, this rustic country inn, decked out like a hunters cabin,
has a terrace with superb views of the
peak of Punta Ventosa. The highlight of
the menu is lamb slow roasted in chestnut honey, but other dishes worth trying
include buglidicci (pancakes with ewesmilk cheese), and roast pork stued with
figatellu (liver sausage).
RESTAURANT SAN PETRU //
VALLE DALESANI
%04 95 35 94 74; menus 16-22; hlunch & dinner
Apr-Dec

This place owes its reputation to a menu

based solidly on good-quality local produce. Dishes include a delicious salade
de confit de porc aux chtaignes (salad of
pork, cooked in its own fat, and chestnuts) and, if you want to challenge your
palate, carpaccio de museau (carpacciostyle pigs snout). The decor in the dining room wont win any prizes, but the
outdoor seating is pleasant enough.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

SANT ANDRIA // CAMPANA

%04 95 35 82 26; menus 20-24; hlunch & dinner

Mon-Sat, lunch Sun May-Sep

Choose a chestnut-wood table in the rustic dining room or take a seat on the terrace, where you can soak up the splendid
views over the valley, and treat yourself
to a glass of Appellation dOrigine Contrle (AOC) Ajaccio while you ponder
the menu of Corsican specialities
we went for the veau Corse mijot
lancienne (slowly stewed Corsican veal),
the terrine de courgettes (zucchini terrine) and tiramisu made with chestnut
flour, and were not disappointed.

TRANSPORT
CAR // A map of Castagniccia looks like spaghetti spilt on
a crumpled green tablecloth the regions steep, forested
hillsides are laced with a tangle of narrow, twisting roads.
Youll rarely get above third gear (average speed is around
30km/h), so relax, enjoy the scenery and be prepared to
get lost at least once. There are no petrol stations up here,
so fill your tank before heading into the hills.

COSTA SERENA
& CTE DES
NACRES
The Costa Serena stretches from
the inland lighthouse of the Phare
dAlistro, poised above the N198
coastal highway, to the Travo river.
The two main towns, Alria and
Ghisonaccia, arent about to win any
awards for tourist destination of the
year, but their safe, sandy beaches
pull in plenty of visitors. More interesting are the remains of Roman
Alria and the pretty hill villages of
the Fiumorbu.
South from here, and centred on the
yachting centre of Solenzara, is the Cte

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION // Costa Serena
Tourist Oce (%04 95 56 12 38; www

.corsica-costaserena.com; rte de Ghisoni, Ghisonaccia;

h9am-12.30pm & 2-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun Jul

& Aug, 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun)

Ctes des Nacres Tourist Oce (%04 95
57 43 75; www.cotedesnacres.com; N198, Solenzara;
h9am-noon & 3-7pm Jun & Sep, 9am-8pm Jul & Aug,
9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-May)

TRANSPORT
BUS // The Rapides Bleus (%04 95 31 03 79)

BastiaPorto-Vecchio bus stops at Cateraggio (for Alria;

1 hours, daily mid-June to mid-September, Monday
to Saturday mid-September to mid-June). Autocars
Cortenais (%04 95 46 02 12) operates a service to
Alria from Corte (one hour, one daily Tuesday, Thursday
and Saturday) in July and August only. Transports
Tiberi (%04 95 57 81 73) has buses from Bastia to
Solenzara (1 hours, one daily Monday to Saturday),
via Alria.

ANCIENT ALRIA &

AROUND
ANCIENT ALRIA // DELVE INTO
CORSICAS GREEK AND ROMAN
PAST

Established by ancient Greeks around

550 BC and taken over by the Romans
in the 2nd century BC, the prosperous
settlement of Alria (originally known as
Alalia) was once the capital of Corsica.
Its ruins, occupying a small hill overlooking the Tavignano river, have sup-

163

plied archaeologists with a treasure trove

of impressive finds.
Even if the idea of an archaeology
museum usually sends you to sleep, the
Muse Archologique Jrme-Carcopino (%04 95 57 00 92; Fort de Matra; admission
incl archaeological site 2; h8am-noon & 2-7pm midMaySep, 8am-noon & 2-5pm Octmid-May) is well

worth a visit. Housed in the impressive

Fort de Matra, built by the Genoese in
1484, its four rooms house an impressive
collection of Etruscan, Greek and Roman
pots, vases, lamps and jewellery. The
highlight is the collection of beautifully
decorated 5th-century-BC Greek pottery,
including drinking vessels in the shape of
animal heads.
The archaeological site is a 300m walk
southwest from the fort. It boasts the remains of a forum, some temples and parts
of the Roman baths, but the largest part of
the city is still to be excavated what you
see is only 10% of the citys full extent.
TANG DE DIANE // ENJOY
OYSTERS FRESH FROM THE
LAGOON

The peaceful tang de Diane, a large saltwater lagoon about 3km north of Alria,
was once used by the Romans as a harbour and oyster farm. The Roman ships
are long gone, but oysters, mussels and
clams are still farmed here. Floating on a
pontoon moored in the southwest corner
of the lagoon, right next to the shellfish
farm, Aux Coquillages de Diane (%04
95 57 04 55; mains 13-22; hlunch Sun-Thu, lunch
& dinner Fri & Sat Feb-May & Oct-Dec, lunch & dinner
Jun-Sep) is a stylish eatery dressed in nauti-

cal decor. The obvious choice here is the

oysters au naturel, but the menu also
includes lots of other seafood delicacies
such as fritto misto of prawn, squid and
octopus; grilled sea bass; and lobster any
way you like (160 per kilogram).

THE EAST

des Nacres, named for the seashells that

were once abundant on this coast. The
beaches around Solenzara are the best on
the east coast, but again the real attractions lie inland the remote valley of the
Travo river, and the spectacular scenery
on the road to Bavella.

C O S TA S E R E N A & C T E D E S N AC R E S

164

C O S TA S E R E N A & C T E D E S N AC R E S

THE EAST

KAYAK THE COAST // EXPLORE

LAGOON AND RIVER UNDER
PADDLE POWER

The Tavignano river flows into the sea

near the Plage du Padulone, Alrias
main beach. Corsicaventura (%04 95 48 82
06, 06 67 26 52 49; www.ernella.net; Camping Ernella,
N200) has a summer outpost on the beach,

where you can hire kayaks and Canadian

canoes to explore the coast and river.
Join a guided four- to five-hour expedition (45 per boat) along the coast to
the tang dUrbino, or descend the last
10km of the Tavignano river to the sea,
ending at the beach; the latter is a pleasantly laid-back trip over mostly calm
water thats suitable for beginners.
DOMAINE MAVELA // STOCK UP
ON CORSICAN BOOZE
This boutique distillery (%04 95 56 63 15;
h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat Sepmid-Jan, Apr
& May, 9am-8pm Jun-Aug) produces liqueurs

(myrtle, chestnut, plum), Corsican eaude-vie, and even a Corsican malt whisky
(sold under the brand P&M). You can
tour the works and buy the booze, but
thats not all youll also find here one
of Corsicas best wine cellars, where you
can sample many of the islands finest
wines what about a Gentile Noble, a
Clos Canarelli or a Domaine Torraccia
to go with that gourmet picnic? and an
impressive selection of locally produced
cheese, charcuterie, honey and preserves.
Its on the D343; turn right o the N198
about 4km south of ancient Alria.

LE FIUMORBU
The Fiumorbu microregion to the west
of Ghisonaccia doesnt have any major
sights, but its certainly worth exploring
its cluster of villages perchs, built like eagles nests on hilltops or snuggled within

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

dense forests. Its not promoted heavily

as a tourist destination, so it remains
largely overlooked by visitors.

DRIVING TOUR
Distance: 50km
Duration: four hours
From the N198 south of Ghisonaccia
take the D244 inland to Pietrapola,
once famous for its thermal baths,
then make your way to San Gavinu di
Fiumorbu, which clings to a hillside
in a curve of the valley. Just before
the village a left turn leads in 3km to
Catastaju, where a gte dtape (p255)
on the Mare a Mare Centre trail sits on
the banks of the Abatescu river. This is
the starting point for lots of excellent
hikes, and the white-granite bed of the
river here forms a series of beautiful
green bathing pools.
Head north to sleepy Isolaccio di
Fiumorbu (700m), the highest hamlet in the area, then zigzag down to
Prunelli di Fiumorbu, the prettiest
village perch in the region. From a
bench in the shade of an ancient green
oak you can soak up the panorama
of wooded hills, coastal plain and the
tang dUrbino, before wandering
through picturesque, flower-bedecked
lanes to the old church, or browsing
the eclectic collection of curiosities in
the Muse Mnmosina (Memory Museum;
%04 95 56 74 75; Prunelli di Fiumorbu; adult/child

2/1; h3-6pm Sat, or by appointment). If youre

tempted to stay the night, check out

Villa Clotilde (p255).
Head for lunch at the Ca Butta
(%04 95 56 74 75; Prunelli di Fiumorbu; mains 9-15;
hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun), an agreeable bis-

tro with a limited menu but excellent

cuisine, before descending the looping
hairpin bends of the D345 back to the
coastal highway.

C O S TA S E R E N A & C T E D E S N AC R E S

0
0

LE FIUMORBU

Prunelli
di Fiumorbu
\
#

0
D345

2 miles

165

4 km

Ghisonaccia
\
#
#
Ghisoni \

0
N198

\
# Abbazia

0
D244

0
!

\
#

Isolaccio
di Fiumorbo

0
D145

Pietrapola

\
#

u
tesc
Aba

D145

\
#

San Gavinu
di Fiumorbo

Parc Naturel
Rgional de
la Corse

Catastaju

CASAMOZZA

A TRIBBIERIA PASQUALE
PAOLI // KNOCK BACK SOME
CORSICAN ALES

The closest thing eastern Corsica has to

a pub, A Tribbiera (%04 95 56 37 23; hTueSun) certainly has novelty value. This
lively bar with an attached microbrewery
gives you the chance to sample a range
of unique boutique beers, flavoured with
arbutus berry, Corsican honey or clementines and served by the mezzu (25cL),
pinta (50cL), carafon (1L) or funtana
(2L). Its not all about the beer though;
socialising is a major activity in the
sunny courtyard or inside the big main
bar. On Friday you could be entertained
by live music. Its about 3km south of
Ghisonaccia on the N198.

SOLENZARA & AROUND

SOLENZARA // HANG OUT BY
THE HARBOUR

In the charisma stakes, Solenzaras heavily tracked centre and bland buildings
come a poor second to the picture-postcard beauties further south. But the lively

marina is a pleasant place to watch the

world sail by, and the town is blessed
with a hatful of well-regarded restaurants,
and some lovely beaches to the south.
Stroll along the main drag, and pop
into A Buttega di A Mandria (%04 95 31 59
35; rte Principale; hTue-Sun Apr-Oct), an excellent
food shop where you can buy a handmade
basket and fill it with local produce. Then
head down to the harbour for a homemade ice cream at Glacier du Port (%04
95 57 42 21; port de plaisance; hApr-Sep), where
you can relax on the terrace and watch the
comings and goings in the marina.
BEACHES // SUNBATHE, SWIM,
SIP A BEER IN THE SHADE

Beaches are Solenzaras main raison

dtre. The pleasant town beach is a short
stroll away, across a footbridge at the
north side of the harbour, but a series of
bays to the south Anse de Tarco, Anse
de Favona and the much-photographed
Anse de Fautea, with the bonus of a Genoese watchtower, have a more attractive
setting. Best of the lot is the half-moonshaped Anse de Canella 5km south of
Solenzara, with fine white sand, turquoise
water, shady trees and a couple of bars.

THE EAST

66666
0
!
66666
66666
66666
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

166

C O S TA S E R E N A & C T E D E S N AC R E S

THE EAST

VALLE DU TRAVO // ESCAPE TO

THE HILLS

The Travo Valley, which cuts into the

hills 6km north of Solenzara, is a haven
of peace and solitude. The D645 road
climbs ever more steeply and tortuously up the valley to end after 17km at
Chis, one of the most isolated villages
in eastern Corsica. Hidden away among
steep crags and dense forests, Chis is
the starting point for several interesting hikes, and also for possibly the most
thrilling via ferrata in Corsica.
But the valleys hidden attraction is the
river itself, which in summer presents a
series of languid, emerald-green vasques
(natural pools) lined with golden granite
slabs perfect for picnicking and sunbathing. You can reach the river via a steep
path that descends from a small metal
gate beside the road, on the village side
of the Pont de Bura. From here its possible to follow the riverbed downstream
to find your own perfect pool.
As far as lunch goes, your only option
is the basic Pension-Restaurant U Chis
(%04 95 57 31 06; Chis; menu 15; hlunch & dinner
Jul & Aug).
VIA FERRATA DE CHIS //
SCARE YOURSELF SILLY ON A
THRILLING VIA FERRATA

Leading from the village of Chis up to

the summit of U Calanconi and back
down again, the Via Ferrata de Chis
(%04 95 57 84 24; www.viaferratachisa.fr; per person
15, equipment hire 10) is one of the most

challenging in Corsica. It begins with

a 17m Himalayan rope bridge across a
river, then scales a 100m-high granite
cli using metal ladders and wire ropes;
the final scary overhang is surmounted
by climbing a spiderweb of steel cable.
The descent involves a 50m Himalayan
bridge and an adrenaline-pumping 230m

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

zip line. The route begins at a wooden

cabin at the top of the village, open at
weekends only; from Monday to Friday,
ask at the Gte dtape Bocca B (%04
95 56 36 61) across the road. Allow three to
four hours.
Experienced via ferrata climbers can
tackle the circuit alone, but beginners
should join a group led by a qualified
guide; the tourist oces at Ghisonaccia
(p163) and Solenzara (p163) have lists
of suitable guides. The minimum age is
12 years.
VALLE DE LA SOLENZARA //
STUNNING SCENERY AND WILD
SWIMMING

The D268, which connects Solenzara

with the Col de Bavella, 30km to the
west, ranks as one of the most dramatic
mountain roads in Corsica and thats
saying something! The view of the
granite pinnacles of Bavella as you cross
the Col de Larone (608m) is genuinely
breathtaking.
From the coast, the valley of the Solenzara river coils lazily into the mountains.
Huge, rounded boulders in the broad
riverbed speak of tumultuous winter
torrents, but in summer the Solenzara is
a series of limpid green vasques that look
like something out of a shampoo advertisement. There are several places with
parking and easy access to the river, notably near the Pont de Calzatoju, 12km
from Solenzara.
CORSICA FOREST PARC
AVENTURE // TEST YOUR NERVE
AT A PARC AVENTURE
%06 25 97 27 95, 06 16 18 00 58; www.corsica-forest
.com; rte de Bavella; adult/child 17/14; h9am-6pm
May-Sep

This adventure park, just beyond the U

Rosmarinu campsite, is a must do for

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

A MANDRIA DE SBASTIEN //
A STEP BACK IN TIME FOR
HUNGRY CARNIVORES

Stepping through the doorway of A

Mandria de Sbastien (%04 95 57 41 95;
N198, Solenzara; mains 12-25, menus 22-25; hlunch
& dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun Apr-Dec), a converted

bergerie (shepherds hut) at the northern

entrance to Solenzara, is like stepping
back half a century. The walls are beguilingly adorned with ancient tools and
other knick-knacks, and in summer
tables are set beneath a pergola in the
garden. Bona fide carnivores will find
nirvana here: meat is grilled to perfection, and the local charcuterie is faultless.
Service could use a little improvement,
but once you taste the food youll forget
how long it took to arrive. Credit cards
arent accepted.
LA FONDERIE // FINE DINING
NEAR THE HARBOUR

Set in a former blacksmiths forge near

the harbour, this fine-dining establishment (%04 95 57 42 47; port de plaisance, Solenzara;
mains 8-25; hlunch & dinner May-Sep) has an
attractive terracotta-tiled terrace where

167

you can watch the swallows swoop over

the nearby reed beds. The menu includes
dishes such as carpaccio of swordfish
with lemon and pink peppercorns,
bream stued with chorizo, and fillet
of beef with pt de foie gras (duck- or
goose-liver pt) and figs; other drawcards are the friendly, relaxed service and
chill-out tunes in the background.

THE EAST

those who want to enjoy the valley from

a dierent perspective. There are 25
challenging obstacles, including a gutwrenching 65m zip line over the river,
but fear not theres a 10-minute introductory session on what to do, and youll
be safely secured at all times. Theres also
a baby parc for the kids (6).
If the 1-hour circuit leaves you craving a further adrenaline rush, theres
also a superb via ferrata, A Buccarona
(adult/child 17/14; h9am-6pm May-Sep), which
is even more challenging. Corsica Forest
Parc Aventure also arranges guided canyoning trips in the Aiguilles de Bavella;
see p148 for more information.

C O S TA S E R E N A & C T E D E S N AC R E S

THE CENTRAL
MOUNTAINS

3 PERFECT DAYS
DAY 1 // THE KERNEL OF CORSICA

Start gently in picturesque Corte (opposite), then drive out due north along the N193
to the lightly tracked Valle du Niolo. On your way you can stop at Prumitei Centre des Arts du Feu (p175) to see skilled craftspeople at work. In the Valle du Niolo,
allow a few hours to explore the cluster of villages (p179) near Calacuccia, the capital
of the valley. A two-hour horse-riding excursion (p180) in the magnificent Fort du
Valdu Niellu is the perfect finish to a fantastic day.
DAY 2 // ALFRESCO ATTRACTIONS

In Corte, rise early to make it to Valle de la Restonica (p177) before the crowds arrive.
Drive along the river until you find the perfect bathing pool and smooth rocks (p178).
Come lunchtime, tuck into an omelette au Brocciu (omelette with goats or ewes-milk
cheese) at Bergeries de Grotelle (p178). Suitably re-energised, you could tackle the
ascent to Lac de Melu (p178) or, if youd like something more gentle, leave the valley
and drive to Pont de Noceta (p183) for an afternoon dip in the Vecchio river.
DAY 3 // FORESTS AND FRESH MOUNTAIN AIR

From Corte, make your way to the peaceful mountain hamlet of Vizzavona, surrounded by the majestic Fort de Vizzavona (p184); be sure to stop at Cantina di Matteu
(p184) in Venaco for gourmet picnic supplies on the way. In the forest, take your pick
from the gentle walking options on oer: try Cascades des Anglais (p184) or Cascade
du Voile de la Marie (p184). Spend the afternoon at Parc Vizzavona Aventure (p184)
for a bout of action amid pine trees. Heading back to Corte, enjoy a hearty Corsican
meal at U Stazzu (p176).

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TRANSPORT

TRAIN // Chemins de Fer de la Corse

(%04 95 23 11 03; www.train-corse.com) runs four

trains daily from Ajaccio, stopping at Vizzavona, Vivario,
Venaco, Corte, Ponte Leccia and Bastia. For Calvi and le
Rousse, change at Ponte Leccia.
BICYCLE // Altipiani (%06 86 16 67 91; www
.altipiani-corse.com; 5 rue du Professeur Santiaggi,
Corte; bicycle per day 18) hires out bikes.

CORTE
(CORTI)
pop 6350
Corte, roughly midway between
Bastia and Ajaccio, feels different
to other Corsican cities. This is the
heart and soul of Corsica. Caretaker
of the islands identity, the town was,
so briefly, the capital of an independent Corsica between 1755 and 1769,
and remains a symbol of its peoples
aspirations and longings.
Beautifully positioned at the confluence
of several rivers, Corte is blessed with an

169

awesome setting. From the N193, you can

view the fairy-tale sight of Cortes citadel
atop a craggy mount that bursts forth from
the valley. The towns sizeable student
population testified to by the number of
bars in the main street gives the town a
special buzz during term time. During the
summer, its mainly tourists who walk the
streets and fill the cafes, supplemented by
a sun-bronzed bevy of hikers enjoying day
walks amid the soul-stirring scenery of the
Restonica and Tavignano Valleys, both of
which open out at the foot of the town.

ESSENTIAL
INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Tourist oce (%04

95 46 26 70; www.centru-corsica.com; h10am-5pm

Mon, Wed & Sat, 9am-7pm Tue, Thu & Fri Jul & Aug,
9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun) In the Caserne
Padoue at the entrance to the citadel. Has information
about Corte and the valleys of the central mountains.

EXPLORING CORTE
CITADEL & MUSE DE LA CORSE //
GET THE LOW-DOWN ON
CORSICAS PAST AND CULTURE

For a birds-eye view of Corte and the

cobbled alleys of the haute ville (upper
town), haul your way up to the citadel,
which seems to grow organically from the
rocky pinnacle to which the town clings.
The citadel itself was built in 1419, while
the two buildings facing one another past
the gate, the Caserne Padoue (Padoue Barracks) and the Caserne Serrurier (Serrurier
Barracks), were added in the 19th century.
The latter houses the organised Muse
de la Corse (Museu di a Corsica; %04 95 45 25 45;
admission 5.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Aprmid-Jun &
mid-SepOct, 10am-8pm mid-Junmid-Sep, 10am-5pm
Tue-Sat Nov-Mar), the islands major museum
(Continued on page 174)

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

CAR // The N193, which links Bastia to Ajaccio, cuts

through the mountains, and serves Corte, Venaco, Vivario and Vizzavona.
PARKING // Its comparatively easier to park your car
in Corte than in the coastal cities, though the streets in
the centre are still congested in summer. Corte has a few
car parks for 1.50 per hour.
BUS // Eurocorse Voyages (%04 95 21 06
30) runs buses between Ajaccio and Bastia (twice daily,
Monday to Saturday), stopping at Vizzavona, Vivario,
Venaco and Corte. From July to mid-September, Autocars Mordiconi (%04 95 48 00 04) runs buses
from Corte to Porto (one daily, Monday to Saturday) via
Calacuccia and visa. Autocars Cortenais (%04
95 46 02 12) has one bus to Bastia from Corte via Ponte
Leccia on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. It also operates a service to Alria from Corte (one daily Tuesday,
Thursday and Saturday) in July and August only.

C O R T E (C O R T I )

ta
an

47

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d'Alici

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p169

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10 km
6 miles

Col
d'Arcarotta

Carcheto

De ve into Corsicas i ustrious past

at Muse de a Corse

Andrea
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# Sant
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#
San Quilico \

D15

CORTE

La Porta

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Santa Lucia
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#

D47

p175

See ski ed Corsican craftspeop e at work

at Prumitei Centre des Arts du Feu

OMESSA

0
0

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

T H E C E N T R A L M O U N TA I N S

Lac du
Cinto I Cinqu
Frati
$
Calasima

Mon
$ Cinto

Haut
Asco

#
\

p179

Spend a few days in a va ey

steeped in pastora traditions

VALLE DU NIOLO

Monte
Padru

Valle d

Sca
la d
iS

Find the perfect picnic spot in

this vasque-rich va ey

VALLE DU TAVIGNANO p175

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

l G

170
L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

p183

0
D27

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Monte
Renosu

Col de
Vizzavona
0

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#

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#

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"
U
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#
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D39

D343

Le Boziu

\
# Vezzani

#
Erbajola \

0
0

Poggio di
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#
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#
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D623

The region is traversed by the N193 road inking Ajaccio and Bastia. Traffic congestion is common
in Corte in summer. Pressure is a so intense in the Va e de a Restonica, which has a arge number
of tight bends and few passing opportunities. Navigation is better in the Va e du Nio u and in the
itt e-trave ed Va e de Asco. The twisty roads of the Boziu are a most deserted. Corte and the
Vnachese can a so be reached from Bastia or Ajaccio by Corsicas sing e-track rai way, which runs
through forests and around mountains a fantastic experience.

GETTING AROUND

De icious food in typica Corsican

shepherds huts

BERGERIES DE TOLLA

Rezza

Cru zz in

\
# Guagno

\
# Orto

Lac de
Lac de Melu
Capitellu

Bergeries
e Grotelle \
#

Lac de Ninu

Lac de k
Creno

p178

A three-hour hike to incredib y

photogenic g acia akes

Ta
vig
na
no

i ver

hio
R

cc

LAC DE MELU &

LAC DE CAPITELLU

Le V
ena chese

54
44
51
74

Calacuccia
Corte
Venaco
Vizzavona

64

44

34

30

12
21

DISTANCE CHART (KM)

A majestic aricio-pine-tree forest

with p enty of wa king options

FORT DE VIZZAVONA p184

#
Antisanti \

Punta
Murone

Piedicortedi-Gaggio

\
#

Get a buzz in itt e-frequented

canyons

VECCHIO & VERGHJELLU

p183
RIVERS

co
As

Note: Distances between destinations are approximate

ia

rte

Capu di a
Candela

Co

Niellu
"
U

cc
cu
al
a

D84

ac

de
0 Fort

Valdu

T H E C E N T R A L M O U N TA I N S

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

du llu
e

Ve
n

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M
171

172

T H E C E N T R A L M O U N TA I N S G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

GETTING STARTED

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

With only one town of significant size, central Corsica is

all about forests, rivers and mountains. The key is to remember to shift into low gear literally. The fantastic valleys of the interior Restonica, Asco, Niolo deserve at
least one week if you want to soak up their special atmosphere. Corte, the Vnachese and Vizzavona can keep you
busy for a few days more if you indulge in any outdoor
activities. Be generous with the little-explored Boziu microregion: you might find you stay longer than intended.
TOP EXCURSIONS
TREASURE HUNTS

Don your explorers hat and meet the Cortenais theyll help you solve clues and riddles in a treasure hunt around Corte (p175).
LE BOZIU

Get an MP3 guide at Cortes tourist oce and explore this enticing microregion,
which remains o the radar for most visitors (p181).
DONKEY RIDES

Saddle up and immerse yourself in the majestic Valle du Niolo; take a multiday excursion if you really want to commune with nature (p180).
VALLE DE LASCO

A spectacular drive along a valley that feels like the end of the world stately forests,
the purest air imaginable and fantastic swimming spots await and, if youre really
lucky, you might spot a mouflon or two (p180).
PRUMITEI CENTRE DES ARTS DU FEU

See some excellent Corsican craftspeople at work at this well-organised centre, which
should be a mandatory stop for culture vultures (p175).
VALLE DU NIOLO

Let the serene atmosphere of this isolated valley envelope you. Chill out in a village or
walk amid splendid forest (p179).

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

T H E C E N T R A L M O U N TA I N S G E T T I N G S TA R T E D

GETTING AWAY
FROM IT ALL

TOP EATING
EXPERIENCES

As central Corsica is much less touristy than

the rest of the island, its fairly easy to find
peaceful spots.

PTISSERIE CASANOVA

Gorges du Manganellu Leave the

N193 road and retreat to this timeless
valley that feels like its in the middle of
nowhere (p183)

Asco The only settlement in the Valle

Killer Corsican sweet treats (p176)

U STAZZU

Delightful storzapretti (a kind of dumpling with Brocciu cheese), plus farmraised veal (p176)
A CANTINA DI MATTEU

de lAsco, the village of Asco is steeped

in pastoral traditions (p180)

Goods sourced from small-scale producers (p184)

Le Boziu For real solitude, Le Boziu, right

HTEL MONTE DORO

on Cortes doorstep, beckons youll be

almost alone on its narrow lanes (p181)

Old-fashioned atmosphere in a venerable institution (p184)

Valle du Tavignano Just on the outskirts of Corte yet light years away from
city life, this valley has wonderful walks
and tantalising natural pools (p175)

BERGERIES DE TOLLA

Charcuterie platters in a shepherds hut

(p183)
U FRAGNU

TOP ACTIVITIES

Parcs aventure What about zip lining

180m above the Asco river? Safe, fun,
easyand thrilling (p180).

Horse riding A ride among the laricio

pines of the Fort du Valdu Niellu or
along the Valle du Tavignano is unforgettable (p180, p175).

RESOURCES

Centru di Corsica A leaflet providing

information on central Corsica; available
at Cortes tourist office (p169)

Parc Naturel Rgional de la Corse

(PNRC; www.parc-naturel-corse.com, in
French) Website of the body that administers much of inland Corsica

Hiking Wherever you go, youll find

gentle walking paths that lead to fantastic spots ranging from glacial lakes to
deep laricio-pine forests.

Central Corsica (www.centru-corsica

.com) Comprehensive site on Central
Corsica

Canyoning Central Corsica offers littlefrequented canyons that are just perfect
for your initiation into the sport (p180,
p183).

One of central Corsicas top secrets (p181)

Niolo Tourist Office (www.office

-tourisme-niolu.com) The low-down on
the Valle du Niolo

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

173

174

C O R T E (C O R T I )

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

(Continued from page 169)

0
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CORTE

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66
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and a definite must see for anyone interested in Corsicas history and culture. The
building has two main galleries, with a
third space allocated to temporary exhibits. On the 1st floor, the Galerie Doazan
exhibits a selection of traditional Corsican
craft objects illustrating themes including
agriculture, pastoral life and cottage industries such as weaving. On the next level,
the Muse en Train de se Faire (Museum
under Construction) deals with contemporary subjects such as industry, tourism
and music. Its worth investing an extra
1.50 for the English audioguide.

ica

Pont
Tavignanu

TRANSPORT
Altipiani ........................................... (see 2)
Autocars Cortenais........................ 18 A2
Autocars Mordiconi...................(see 19)
Eurocourse Voyages..................(see 18)
Train Station.................................... 19 D4

PARKING V
la 20 C4
Parking..............................................
gio 21 B2
Rte d
Parking..............................................
'E r b ia
Nicoli
University
of Corsica
Pascal Paoli

Basse
Ville

0
N200

To U Stazzu (5km)

Train r
Station "
19

Quartier
Porette

sto
n

0
!

ACCOMMODATION i
Htel du Nord................................. 16 B2
Htel Duc de Padoue................... 17 B2

" 20
V

Re

m in de Baliri

RECOMMENDED SHOPS f
Casa Curtinese
Alimentation Ghionga.............. 14 A3
Terra Corsa....................................... 15 B3

cc
i

Pr
s
id
en
tP
ie
ru

u
Av
d

Av Jean

D
La Vieille Cave................................. 12 B3
Le Rex Lounge................................ 13 B3

ta
Or

N
3"
he

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

A
B
C
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
GASTRONOMIC
Tourist Office..................................... 1 A3 HIGHLIGHTS @ 8
A Scudella ........................................... 6 B3
EXPLORING CORTE
Cantina ................................................ 7 A3
Altipiani............................................... 2 B3 Le 24 ..................................................... 8 B2
Le Belvdre ...................................... 3 A4 Le Bips.................................................. 9 B3
Muse de la Corse............................ 4 A3 Ptisserie Casanova.......................10 B3
Statue of Pascal Paoli...................... 5 B3
Av du Gnral
` NIGHTLIFE ?
#
de Gaulle
Caf du Cours .............................. (see 16)
7
18 "
Cyrnea................................................11 B3
Pl du Duc
de Padoue
To Chambres d'Htes
" 17
i
Osteria di L'Orta
Casa Guelfucci
8
(500m); Prumitei
@
"
Centre des Arts
St" 21
V
du Feu (12km)
Jose
"
i
ph
N200
16

200 m
0.1 miles

Stadium

0
N193

To reach the upper levels of the

citadel, you have to pass through the
museum. To enjoy just as impressive a
panorama for free, climb the stairs beneath the ramparts to the viewpoint of
Le Belvdre.
COURS PAOLI // FEEL THE PULSE
OF CENTRAL CORTE

The experience of rambling along cours

Paoli, Cortes main thoroughfare, and its
lateral rampes (paved streets), will live
long in the memory; at aperitif time, the
cours looks like its hosting a miniature

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

C O R T E (C O R T I )

version of an Italian passeggiata. Start

from place Paoli, Cortes focal point,
which is dominated by a statue of Pascal
Paoli, and stroll down the cours. There
are plenty of reasons to linger the cours
is lined with a string of pleasant terrace
restaurants and bars. See if you can resist
the tantalising display of sweet treats at
Ptisserie Casanova

Explore Corte in a fun way, discovering

intriguing parts of the capital that are so
easily overlooked or missed. Altipiani
(%06 86 16 67 91; www.altipiani-corse.com; 5 rue du
Professeur Santiaggi; treasure hunts 10; hdaily AprOct) has set up a treasure hunt that com-

prises a series of location clues which will

guide you around the centre on foot, taking in many of the citys beautiful sights.
Youll need the help of knowledgeable
locals to solve some riddles a great way
to meet the Cortenais. It takes about two
hours to complete.
VALLE DU TAVIGNANO // TAKE
A SOLITARY WALK THROUGH
CORSICAS DEEPEST GORGE

If you feel overwhelmed by the vehicles

in the Valle du Restonica, youll love the
car-free Valle du Tavignano. Corsicas
deepest gorge is only accessible on foot

and remains well o the beaten track,

despite being on Cortes doorstep.
From Corte, the signposted track
heads through the maquis and scrubland, hugging the river as it climbs deep
into the mountains. About 5km from
Corte the gorge walk really kicks in and
the scenery becomes increasingly dramatic. Reached after about 2 hours, the
Passerelle de Rossolino footbridge is an
idyllic spot for a picnic. Theres no shortage of transparent green vasques (natural
pools) in which you can dunk yourself.
Just blissful!
The Valle du Tavignano also lends
itself to superb horse-riding excursions
from Corte. Contact LAlbadu (%04 95 46
24 55; Ancienne rte dAjaccio; half-day 40; hApr-Oct).
There arent any facilities in the valley,
so stock up on food and bring plenty of
water.

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS
A SCUDELLA
%04 95 46 25 31; 2 place Paoli; mains 9-15,
menus 12-22; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, closed
mid-Decmid-Jan

Although locals say that it used to be better, A Scudella remains one of the highly
rated venues on place Paoli for modern
Corsican fare. The menu is carefully
composed, with such tempting dishes as

WORTH A TRIP

Set in a converted brick mill in Omessa, about 13km north of Corte (its conveniently
located on your way to Valle dAsco or Valle du Niolo), Prumitei Centre des Arts du
Feu (%04 95 36 24 28; www.prumitei.fr; adult/child 6/3; h9.30am-12.30pm & 4.30-7pm mid-MaymidSep, 9am-noon & 2-5pm mid-Sepmid-May) is well worth a visit. As well as hosting concerts, exhibitions and various cultural events, this multifaceted cultural centre is active in handicraft
production, especially bronzeware, glassmaking and pottery. You can see the artisans at
work in their workshops, and theres a shop where you can buy the products made on
site. Audioguides are available in English.

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

CITY TREASURE HUNT // SOLVE

PUZZLES AND MEET LOCALS

175

176

C O R T E (C O R T I )

mignon de porc aux figues et aux raisons

the English translation of pork with figs
and grapes doesnt do it justice!
CANTINA

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

place Gaory; mains 8-14; hlunch & dinner Jun-Sep

This pocket-sized restaurant sits snugly

in a vaulted stone dining room. Considering its location near place Gaory, it
could have been a typical tourist trap;
instead, well-prepared classics such as
charcuterie platters or bruschette (try the
Cantina) go down a treat and are served
with a smile.
LE 24
%04 95 46 02 90; 24 cours Paoli; mains 13-24,
menus 18-24; hlunch & dinner daily Jul & Aug,
lunch Mon-Sat & dinner daily Sep-Jun

Taste buds are delighted at this ode to design the contemporary decor sits prettily
with the exposed stone walls, a pair of
sweeping stone arches and a lovely old
dresser. Run by a young couple, Le 24 has

ACCOMMODATION
Forget about luxurious hotels in the
central mountains. Its all about charming B&Bs and low-key, yet comfortable,
hotels. And theyre all reasonably priced.
For a list of recommendations, see the
Accommodation chapter (p240). These
are some of our favourites:

The friendly Chambres dHtes Casa

Vanella (p256) is a good base from
which to explore the Valle du Niolo

Located in the little-explored Boziu,

the Chambres dHtes Casa di Lucia
(p256) is a true get-away-from-it-all
destination

A huge villa in a quiet village, the

Maison dHtes Casa Giafferri
(p257) has bags of character

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

an innovative menu that uses top-quality

ingredients and changes with the seasons.
The house desserts, chalked up on the
blackboard, hit the right spot. Mmm, tiramisu with canistrelli (biscuits made with
almonds, walnuts, lemon or aniseed).
LE BIPS
%04 95 46 06 26; 14 cours Paoli; mains 5-23;
hlunch & dinner year-round

Youd never guess from outside that

theres an atmospheric dining room with
exposed beams and stone walls downstairs. Le Bips is without a doubt the
best-value restaurant youll find along
cours Paoli. Generous pasta dishes or
salads for less than 10? Yes, its possible.
PTISSERIE CASANOVA
%04 95 46 00 79; 6 cours Paoli; pastries from 2;
h7am-7pm Mon-Sat year-round

Expanding waistlines since 1887, this

pastry shop has a tantalising array of sweet
delights, from tarts with herbs to macaroons and falculella. Everything is confected on the premises from family recipes.
It also doubles as a coee lounge perfect
for dessert or a gourmet coee break after
exploring central Corte.
U STAZZU
%04 95 46 31 84, 06 23 01 62 08; off N200; menu
25; hlunch & dinner year-round

There may not be many gastronomic

reasons to leave central Corte behind,
but this little-known farm inn is one
of them. Marie-Rose Guglielmi knows
her stu when it comes to cooking storzapretti (a kind of dumpling with Brocciu cheese) or meat dishes made with
lamb from the farm. Youll eat in a rather
bland dining room, but its the local
specialities that are the pull here. Located
about 5km east of Corte, o the N200, U
Stazzu isnt well signposted; drive past

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

VA L L E D E L A R E S T O N I C A

177

the junction with the D214 that leads to

Bustanico and, after 300m, take the dirt
track on the right for another 300m. And
youre there. Reservations are necessary.

right. With its sleek decor and loungey

vibes, its a nice place to revive your
spirits with a mojito while watching the
world go by.

NIGHTLIFE

RECOMMENDED SHOPS

The bar scene is kept alive by students in

winter, and by a constant influx of thirsty
hikers and tourists in summer.

CASA CURTINESE
ALIMENTATION GHIONGA

%04 95 46 00 33; 22 cours Paoli

On the ground floor of Htel du Nord

(p255), this stained-wood bar is Cortes
oldest watering hole. The vibe is cool,
casual and busy, and theres a huge menu
of drinks and snacks.

TERRA CORSA

rue Sauveur Casanova; hMar-Oct

CYRNEA

rue du Professeur Santiaggi

Many of the bars in central Corte have

sold their soul to the god of tourism, but
this unfussy place is dierent. Corsicanspeaking locals kick back with a prelunch
Dami (Corsican pastis) the cheapest in
Corsica, at 0.80 and visitors chill out
with an ice-cold Pietra in hand.
LA VIEILLE CAVE
%04 95 46 33 79; 2 ruelle de la Fontaine

Youll need to look out for this wine bar,

which is set back from the main street.
The cosy cavelike interior creates an
intimate setting and, as to be expected,
theres a good selection of vins au verre
(wine by the glass; from 1); make it the
perfect aperitif with a small charcuterie
platter. The cellarman can guide you
through some of his 100-plus references.
LE REX LOUNGE
%04 95 46 08 76; 1 cours Paoli

Whether youre after cocktails, liqueurs

or wine, Le Rex Lounge should see you

Marc and Antonia Cesaris delicatessen

is a fragrant emporium of homemade
cured meats, jams, terrines and liqueurs.
It also doubles as a small restaurant in
the high season, with a small terrace
where you can tuck into a charcuterie
platter or sample the delicious veal with
preserved chestnuts and honey.

VALLE DE LA
RESTONICA
The Valle de la Restonica is one of
the prettiest spots in all of Corsica.
The river, rising in the grey-green
mountains, has scoured little basins
in the rock, offering sheltered pinewood settings for swimming, sunbathing and picnicking. From Corte,
the D623 winds its way through the
valley for 15km to the Bergeries de
Grotelle, where a car park and a
huddle of shepherds huts (three of
which offer drinks, local cheeses and

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

CAF DU COURS

Bring your camera, as this produce shop

near place Gaory is the most photogenic
in Corte; the interior, crammed with all
kinds of Corsican goodies, is delightfully
timeless. Come here after siesta time and
you might see the owner chatting with
friends in Corsican. So authentic.

178

VA L L E D E L A R E S T O N I C A

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

snacks) mark the end of the road.

From them, a rugged trail climbs up
to a pair of high mountain lakes.
The valleys delights are easily perhaps too easily available to anyone with
a vehicle. For 10 months of the year, the
valley is tranquil and a mildly tracked
delight. In high summer, hordes of visitors throng up the valley.

EXPLORING VALLE DE
LA RESTONICA
VASQUES // REFRESH YOURSELF
IN MINIATURE SWIMMING POOLS

The Valle de la Restonicas hidden attraction is the river itself, which in summer presents a series of languid, sparkling green vasques fringed with granite
slabs, ideal for picnicking and sunbathing. Come early and find your own pool,
but be prepared for some company in
summer youll have to share the best
spots with other vasque-hunting visitors.
Not peaceful enough for you? Consider
exploring the Valle dAsco the next day.
LAC DE MELU & LAC DE
CAPITELLU // MOUNTAIN WALK
TO PHOTOGENIC GLACIAL LAKES

This is a relatively demanding half-day,

but the rewards are well worth the eort.
From the Bergeries de Grotelle car park
(1375m), a path marked with yellow
blobs leads to a pair of picture-pretty
glacial lakes, Lac de Melu (1711m) and
Lac de Capitellu (1930m).
The path to Lac de Melu follows the
left (west) bank of the Restonica for most
of the way. With its inky waters fringed
by dwarf alder trees and juniper bushes,
the lake is a lovely reward for a rather
strenuous ascent. Theres a short chain
section and a couple of iron ladders to
help you negotiate the steepest part, just

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TOP FIVE
PICNIC SPOTS
When it comes to finding the perfect
picnic spot nothing can beat jacuzzi-like
vasques (natural pools) amid a forest.
Crystal-clear waters + fresh air + shade =
perfection. Just make sure you stock up
on local charcuterie and cheese before
setting o.

Gorges du Manganellu (p183) Our

favourite (shh)

Valle de la Restonica (left)

Pros: lovely pools; cons: crowded in
summer

Valle de lAsco (p180) Lovely

pools by a Genoese bridge

Pont de Noceta (p183) Excellent

spot near Venaco

Valle du Tavignano (p175) Hush

and seclusion

before the lake. Allow a generous hour

from the car park. If you still have some
energy to burn, consider climbing up
to Lac de Capitellu, a further 45 minutes steep ascent away and even more
spectacular. Allow 3 to four hours, not
counting stops, to complete this outand-back walk. Back to the Bergeries de
Grotelle, treat yourself to an omelette au
Brocciu youve earned it.
Walking shoes are essential. Start early
morning to escape the heat (and the
crowds).
AUBERGE DE LA RESTONICA //
ENJOY A HEARTY MEAL BY THE
RIVER

Located in a rustic building (with a disappointingly modernish dining room)

barely 1.5km from Corte, Auberge de la
Restonica (%04 95 45 25 25; mains 13-24, menus

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

16-25; hyear-round) is famous for its robust

Corsican cuisine (wild-boar terrine, Corsican soup) and trout from the river.

TRANSPORT

VALLE DU
NIOLO
Nowhere guards the secrets of traditional Corsica better than this remote and utterly picturesque valley.
Relatively isolated from the rest of the
island, it is well worth a few days of
exploration. From Corte, head north
along the N193 as far as Francardo,
then turn west onto the D84. The
narrow road winds its way for about
20km through a vertiginous ravine
known as Scala di Santa Regina, one of
the islands most dramatic mountain
landscapes. Then the road reaches Calacuccia, the capital of the Niolo and

179

a great base for getting to know this

special area, sometimes known as the
kernel of Corsica. Whether you want
to get active or kick off your shoes and
relax, youll be spoilt for choice.

ESSENTIAL
INFORMATION
TOURIST OFFICES // Association Spor-

tive du Niolu (%04 95 48 05 22, 06 22 50 70

29; www.asniolu.com; rte de Cuccia, Calacuccia) Can
organise any activity in the valley. Tourist oce
(%04 95 47 12 62; www.oce-tourisme-niolu.com;
Calacuccia; h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9am-noon & 2-5pm
Sep-Jun) Beside the main road in Calacuccia. Has various
brochures about the valley and a hiking pamphlet, Niolu
Les Randonnes (1), which outlines five walks varying in
length from 1 hours to a full day.

EXPLORING VALLE
DU NIOLO
NIOLO VILLAGES // CHILL OUT
IN SERENE VILLAGES

After the Scala di Santa Regina, youll

soon hit Calacuccia, blessed with a
lovely setting. Above an artificial lake,
this quiet village lies in the shadow of
the iconic Monte Cinto (2706m), and
I Cinque Frati (The Five Monks), five
jagged peaks that glower over the rural
community below.
The D84 leads west from Calacuccia
towards the tiny hamlet of Albertacce.
On the way, a couple of attractive detours
beckon: follow a sign to the right for
Lozzi, the trail head for climbing Monte
Cinto; above the village, theres a staggering view of the valley. From Albertacce
a stirring 6.5km drive up the D318, with
plunging views of the valley to the south,
brings you to Calasima (1100m), which
lays claim to being Corsicas highest village. To the north, you can make out the
peak of Monte Cinto, the cutaway slab

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

BUS // A shuttle bus (adult/child return 4/2)

operates from mid-July to mid-August, starting from a
small information kiosk located 2km into the valley, and
running to the car park at Bergeries de Grotelle. It leaves
on the hour from 8am to noon, with return journeys from
2pm until 6pm. Caravans and campervans are halted at
Tuani, 7km from Corte.
CAR // Consider leaving your vehicle at the small
information kiosk, 2km into the valley, and taking the
hourly shuttle bus. The 30km/h speed limit makes sound
sense on this narrow road.
PARKING // Parking costs 5 at Bergeries de Grotelle; finding a space in July and August can be nigh on
impossible.
BICYCLE // Altipiani (%06 86 16 67 91; www
.altipiani-corse.com; 5 rue du Professeur Santiaggi,
Corte; bicycle per day 18) hires out bikes. Theyre an
ideal way to avoid the gridlock-trac purgatory in the
valley, but youll need triathletes legs.

VA L L E D U N I O L O

180

VA L L E D U N I O L O

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

of Paglia Orba and the distinctive jagged

peaks of I Cinque Frati.
Back in Calacuccia, a drive around
the southern side of the lake brings you
to the peaceful village of Casamaccioli,
which hosts the Santa di u Niolo festival.
If you fancy a dip, there are plenty of
opportunities for bathing in the mountain streams between Casamaccioli and
Albertacce.
SANTA DI U NIOLO //

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN A HIGHLY

REVERED FESTIVAL

In early September (usually around 8

September), Casamaccioli attracts thousands of pilgrims and local migrs for
one of Corsicas most venerated religious
festivals, the Santa di u Niolo, during
which a gaudy statue of the Madonna
is proudly paraded through the village.
This is your chance to attend competitions of chiame rispondi (improvised
calls and responses).

ADVENTURE SPORTS //
ACTION, FRESH AIR AND
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY

The Valle du Niolo is a fantastic playground for active types and nature
lovers, with hiking, rock climbing, canyoning and parc aventure (adventure
park) all readily available. All activities
are accessible to beginners. The most
iconic canyon descents include La Ruda
and Frascaghju, with leaps and abseiling throughout some splendid gorges
(from 45 for a half-day); contact Association Sportive du Niolu (%04 95
48 05 22, 06 22 50 70 29; www.asniolu.com; rte de
Cuccia, Calacuccia) for canyoning and other

adventures.
If you prefer to clip-clop in the majestic Fort du Valdu Niellu or up to Lac
de Ninu, contact the friendly Ranch
u Niolu a Cavallu (%06 11 05 79 04; www.
ranchunioluacavallu.com; rte de Verghio, Albertacce).
Donkey rides (from 35) can be arranged with La Promenne (%06 25 70

WORTH A TRIP

Well o the beaten path thanks to its splendid isolation, the easily overlooked Valle de
lAsco, the northernmost of the interiors great valleys, is a dream come true for nature
lovers and photographers, with plenty of breathtaking landscapes. This is also one of the
few areas in Corsica where you have a reasonable chance of spotting mouflon and eagles.
From Corte, drive north along the N193 via Ponte-Leccia, then take the turning
west onto the D47. You can make a first stop at Asco Valle Aventure (%04 95 47 69
48; www.interracorsa.com; h9am-6pm Jun-Sep), which is a leisure park offering various outdoor activities, including via ferrata (literally, iron path), a parc aventure (adventure
park), a circuit with 12 zip lines, and a treasure hunt for kids; the less energetic can
simply dunk themselves in the transparent green Asco river nearby. After a few kilometres, youll reach Asco, the only sizeable settlement in the valley, with a dramatic
location and stunning mountain views. A magnificent swimming spot can be found
about 1km below the village, at a renovated Genoese bridge. Should you fall in love
with the area, youll find a couple of accommodation options (see p256) in the village. Continue further up the valley through a stately forest of laricio pines to Haut
Asco, a former ski station, and a great base for short and long walks. Haut Asco is the
end of the road, but if you get stuck theres a hotel and restaurant.

06-central-cor5.indd 180

3/09/2012 1:24:35 PM

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

70 71; www.randonne-ane-corse.com; Albertacce);

the five-day excursion, which takes
in several bergeries (shepherds huts)
throughout the area, comes particularly
recommended.

GASTRONOMIC
HIGHLIGHTS
RESTAURANT DU LAC // SIDOSSI
hlunch & dinner May-Sep

Located at Sidossi, 2km west of Calacuccia, this restaurant is situated near

a lake but, despite its name, cant oer
you any lakeside views at all. No matter: youre here for the food, right? The
chef makes excellent use of fresh local
produce, especially manzu (veal) from
the valley, and free-range lamb; connoisseurs also heartily recommend the
charcuterie.
U CINTU CHEZ JOJO //
ALBERTACCE
%04 95 48 06 87; mains 12-15, menus 17-23;
hlunch & dinner year-round

You arent spoilt for choice at this modest, warmly recommended auberge de
village (village inn), which has just a
handful of classics on the menu. No
prizes for the decor either, with its pastel
walls and floral fabric-covered lamps.
But top marks for friendliness and honest, high-quality Niolo cooking, such as
homemade charcuterie (in winter) and
Brocciu tart.

LE BOZIU
This microregion begins on Cortes
very doorstep, yet sees only a few
visitors per day. As you drive the
narrow, twisting roads, youll come
across sleepy hamlets, deep wooded

181

valleys, glorious little village churches

and panoramas to make the heart
beat faster.

DRIVING TOUR
Distance: 120km
Duration: one day
Heres the ultimate in o-the-beatentrack driving: a route that takes you
into Corsicas heartland yet remains on
well-surfaced back lanes throughout.
An audioguide (in English) covering the
Boziu is available at Cortes tourist oce
(p169).
Follow the N193 northward from
Corte, then branch o to the right
along the D41 towards Tralonca, which
has a lovely parish church, painted in
yellow and white. Continue towards
Santa Lucia di Mercurio, then Sermano. Within Sermanos little Romanesque chapel of San Nicolao are some
poignant 15th-century frescos. Drive
on as far as Bustanico, where theres
another lovely stone church, then loop
left and northward to pass through
Carticasi (9km) and Cambia, 2km
beyond.
Here, take the D39, direction San
Lorenzo, and turn right at a sign indicating the 13th-century church of
San Quilico. Deep in a little wood,
this Romanesque building contains
some finely carved sculptures on the
outside, and a series of frescos within;
ask for the key at the house near the
car park.
Retrace your steps as far as Bustanico,
and then follow the sign pointing to
Alando, reached after 2.5km, which
features the Convent of San-Francescudi-u-Boziu. If you want to make time
for a lunch break, U Fragnu (%06 12 23
76 11; Alando; mains 10-15; hlunch & dinner year-

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

%04 95 48 02 73; mains 12-20, menus 16-22;

LE BOZIU

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

182

LE BOZIU

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

minute walk away along a stony track.

From Erbajola, follow signs for Foccichia (6km) and Altiani (8km) to the
N200 AlriaCorte road (direction
Corte), which youll turn onto at a junction 8km beyond Altiani. At this crossroads, an attractive Genoese bridge
spans the stream. From here, Corte and
the wider world reappear once more
some 20km along the N200.
If youre tempted to linger, youll
discover two excellent accommodation
options in the area; see p256 for more
information.

round), set in a former olive-oil mill, is a

wonderfully authentic place where you
can feast on delicious Corsican staples;
reservations are necessary. Continue
to Favallelo to admire the impressive
frescos of the church of Santa-MariaAssunta. After 1km, turn left onto the
D339 to arrive at the village of Sant
Andrea di Boziu after about 9km. The
hamlet of Piedilacorte has another
beautiful parish church which lords
over the valley.
Head for Erbajola, where the lovely
church of San-Martinu is a short 15-

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LE BOZIU

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L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

CORTE TO
VIZZAVONA

LE VNACHESE // EXPLORE A
SERIES OF CHARMING MOUNTAIN
HAMLETS

Immediately south of Corte, the Vnachese boasts a few elegant villages oering
spectacular mountain views. The N193
squeezes through St-Pierre de Venaco,
from where you can make a little detour
to peaceful Poggio di Venaco. A few
kilometres further south, Venaco is renowned for the quality and variety of its
local produce, especially its ewes-milk
cheese.
For a brief, attractive detour and a
break from the N193, take the D143 to
the right at the entrance to the village as
you approach it from Ajaccio. After 5km,
you reach the Pont de Noceta, spanning
the little Vecchio river and overlooked by
towering mountains. Theres a great view
back to the village at this perfect picnic
spot, and you can immerse yourself in
the river.
CANYON DESCENTS // FEEL
LIKE AN ADVENTURER IN LITTLEEXPLORED CANYONS

The Vecchio and Verghjellu rivers, between Vivario and Venaco, provide an

183

incredible stage for canyoning outings,

with wild scenery and lots of leaps into
emerald-green pools. Thrilling sensations aside, another pull is the absolute
lack of crowds here youll be guaranteed to have the whole place to yourself,
which is bliss if youve done a canyon
descent in the Bavella area. Canyoning
trips can be arranged through Altipiani (%06 86 16 67 91; www.altipiani-corse.com; 5
rue du Professeur Santiaggi, Corte). If you want
something fun and easy, ask for the
haut Verghjellu trip, which lasts half a
day (38) and involves only a 20-minute
walk to get to the start of the canyon.
Near Bocognano, the Richiusa is another
atmospheric canyon.
WALKING INTO GORGES DU
MANGANELLU // EPICUREAN
INDULGENCES IN A BUCOLIC
SETTING

One of central Corsicas best-kept secrets, the Gorges du Manganellu boast a

wonderful bucolic atmosphere. From the
hamlet of Canaglia, about 25km south
of Corte on the N193, follow the wide
track (its signposted) that runs alongside
the Manganellu river. Youll reach the
cute-as-can-be Bergeries de Tolla (mains
8-14; hlunch mid-Junmid-Sep), at an altitude
of 1011m, after about two hours. What
a reward! Feast on hearty Corsican staples, such as omelette with ewes-milk
cheese and fresh mint, and ease your
belt out for the bergeries signature dessert, the tempting amandes et noisettes
grilles au miel de chtaignier (a mix of
chestnut honey, and grilled almonds and
hazelnuts).
Along the way, there are plenty of opportunities to take refreshing dips in the
Manganellu river, which flows through
a succession of gin-clear vasques, waterfalls and stands of majestic laricio pines.

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

Here in the mountainous area to

the south of Corte youll find fresh
mountain air, deep forests, spectacular scenery, abundant hiking trails
and little-explored canyons. Oh,
and theres some fabulous cheese,
too. The region doesnt have many
major sights, but you come here to
enjoy the scenery and the laid-back
atmosphere.

C O R T E T O V I Z ZAV O N A

184

C O R T E T O V I Z ZAV O N A

Allow four hours return from Canaglia. Its a gentle walk on a well-maintained path, with a very mild gradient.

THE CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

VIVARIO // PICNIC BY THE

RIVER

About 9km from Venaco along the N193,

Vivario nestles among the mountains. The
handsome Pont du Vecchio, designed
by Gustave Eiel, is a viaduct that spans
the Vecchio river, precisely 4.5km north
of Vivario; carrying the BastiaAjaccio
railway, it upstages the modern bridge that
carries the N193. Youll find some superb
freshwater pools at the foot of the bridge.
VIZZAVONA // REJUVENATE
MIND AND BODY IN A PRISTINE
FOREST

The N193 climbs steeply in the shadow of

Monte dOro (2389m), the fifth-highest
peak on the island, before arriving at the
cool mountain hamlet of Vizzavona. A
mere cluster of houses and hotels around
a train station, Vizzavona is a major hub
for a huge number of walkers. There are a
few eateries, including Bar-Restaurant de
la Gare and Restaurant du Chef de Gare
LAltagna, which prepare simple meals.
The Fort de Vizzavona, whose 1633
hectares are covered mainly by beech and
laricio pines, is a peaceful haven and a
magnet for walkers, with lots of excellent
hikes on oer. Look for the signpost indicating a short, gentle path that meanders
down through a superb forest of pine
and beech to Cascades des Anglais, a sequence of gleaming waterfalls. Continuing
southwest along the N193 for a few kilometres brings you to the village of Bocognano. From here the road to the Cascade
du Voile de la Marie (Bridal Veil Falls) is
on the left as you leave the village. Impressively fast-flowing in winter, you may find
it little more than a dribble in summer.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

If you want to take a dierent approach to viewing the forest, try Parc
Vizzavona Aventure (%04 95 10 43 16, 06
85 03 19 90; www.corsicanatura.fr; Col de Vizzavona;
admission 15-20; h9am-5pm mid-Junmid-Sep),

which has 10 ropeways and clambering

nets through the trees. Its beside the
N193, just before the Col de Vizzavona.
HTEL MONTE DORO //
TRADITIONAL FARE AND
PLENTY OF ATMOSPHERE NEAR
VIZZAVONA

At the Col de Vizzavona, this restaurant

(%04 95 47 21 06; N193, Col de Vizzavona; mains 1523; hlunch & dinner May-Sep) is truly special:

run by the same family since 1904, it has

retained that early-20th-century feel. Its
hard not to be overwhelmed by the oldfashioned vibes that emanate from the
dining room, which has exposed beams,
white tablecloths and vines dangling
from the high ceilings. There arent too
many surprises on the menu (veal, wild
boar, lamb and Corsican soup), but its
the atmosphere thats the drawcard here.
A CANTINA DI MATTEU //
THE BEST PLACE TO STOCK UP
ON LOCAL GOODIES IN THE
VNACHESE

Those who werent in the know wouldnt

give a second glance to this inconspicuous village produce shop (%04 95 47 36
70; N193, Venaco; mains from 4; h9am-6pm yearround), which doubles as a bistro in sum-

mer. But theyd be missing out on stunningly simple, yet delicious, dishes made
with the highest-quality ingredients
possible, all sourced from the best local
producers the cheese from the Loefgen
farm is to die for. Stop here for a drink or
a quick bite (such as a sandwich, charcuterie platter or salad) on your Vnachese
exploration. Its on the N193.

BACKGROUND

HISTORY

Multiple invasions and clans across the centuries: the turbulent history of this wild
island. (p186)
ALL ABOUT CORSICA

Why Corsicans are as they are. Shaped by their past, French yet not French, migrs
yet fiercely guarding their home territory. (p200)
OUTDOORS

Outdoors galore! Experience the islands wild side, on land and at sea. (p206)
WALKING & THE GR20

Corsica is a walkers paradise. Some of the most inspirational and iconic hiking trails
in Europe are here. (p214)
FLORA & FAUNA OF CORSICA

Birds and animals of maquis and mountain. And a selection of the nearly 3000 species
of flora that have been identified on the island. (p220)
A FRAGILE ENVIRONMENT

Threats of wildfire and unrestricted seaside development. And the Corsican organisations that work to protect Corsicas unique mountain and coastal environment. (p225)
CORSICAN FLAVOURS

Sausages, hams and smoked meats, cheeses both crumbly and smooth, fish dishes and
fine wines an la carte selection of all thats best in traditional Corsican fare. (p230)
FOOD GLOSSARY

What you need to know to eat like a local: a glossary of key gastronomic words. (p238)

186

H I S T O RY

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

HISTORY
World history is generally told without reference to Corsica, except, in passing, as the
place that gave birth to Emperor Napolon Bonaparte. Even so, Corsicas history is a
fascinating and turbulent one. Its strategic position long attracted the attentions of the
major Mediterranean and European powers. Armies from Pisa, Genoa, France, Spain
and Britain, not to mention the Moors and the forces of the Roman and Holy Roman
Empires, have all fought on Corsican soil. This long history of conflict reflects another
battle the islanders struggle to assert their identity while dominated by a succession
of foreign rulers. Indeed, Corsicans have been battling for their independence ever
since the Romans occupied their island, beginning in 259 BC.

BACKGROUND

NEOLITHIC CORSICA
The first inhabitants of the island probably came from what is nowadays Tuscany, the
nearest place on the European mainland. They survived by hunting, gathering and
fishing. You can still see rock caves of the kind in which
they lived at Filitosa in the south.
Around 4000 BC the islanders, like so many early
Corsicans have
European societies, became captivated by big stones. At
been battling for
various sites, particularly in the southwestern corner
their independof the island, they erected great standing slabs of stone
ence ever since the
(menhirs), and shelter-like constructions (dolmens), in
Romans occupied
which two or more standing stones support a huge, horizontal slab. At some point they began to shape and carve
their island
their menhirs, which became simple statues with carved
warrior faces.
Examples of these menhirs still stand at various places across the island, including
Patrimonio, where a pair flank the stage of the annual Nuits de la Guitare festival.

THE TORRENS
In about 1100 BC a new race, possibly originating from the eastern Mediterranean,
came to the island. These new islanders have come to be known as Torrens, named
after their seemingly indestructible signature edifices, the torri, or towers, which stand

6570 BC

40001800 BC

565 BC

The skeleton of the Dame de

Bonifacio remains the first
sure indication of human
presence on Corsica

Monoliths and megalithic

tombs constructed by the
islands inhabitants

Alalia (Alria) founded by

Greeks from Phocaea in
Anatolia

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

H I S T O RY

187

alongside or on the ruins of menhirs and dolmens. Some of the best examples of these
towers dot the coastline of Cap Corse (p46).
Evidence suggests that the Torrens routed their predecessors, the menhir and dolmen builders who, with less-sophisticated weapons, appear to have migrated or fled
north. Groups of Torrens then headed south to Sardinia, where they built some of the
first conical stone edifices, now called nuraghi.
Early castelli (castles) are the most significant vestiges of the settled, more organised
way of life that the islands inhabitants had begun to lead. You can visit the remains of
three of these castelli in the mountains between Porto-Vecchio and Propriano.

GREEKS & ROMANS

In the 6th century BC, Greeks from Phocaea, on the coast of Anatolia, founded Alalia
at what is today the conurbation of Alria on Corsicas flat eastern plain. Alalia thrived
on trade and Corsica soon rose to relative fame.
For the cosmopolitan, seafaring peoples of the Mediterranean, however, the island was primarily a place for brief port calls. Nobody before the Romans bothered
to invest in or take control of the island. When Rome did step in, it was above all
for strategic reasons: to prevent Corsica from falling into the hands of its enemy,
the Carthaginians.

HISTORIC SITES

Pianu di Levie // Well-preserved megalithic remains (p146)

glise de San Michele de Murato // Glorious example of Pisan church architecture

(p57)

Citadel of Bonifacio // Genoas first military toehold on the island (p129)

Genoese towers of Cap Corse // Typical of over 80 watchtowers around the Corsican
coastline (p46)

Corte // Capital of Pascal Paolis brief-lived Corsican republic (p169)

Citadel of Calvi // Where Admiral Horatio Nelson lost the sight in his right eye (p59)

Maison Bonaparte (Ajaccio) // Napolons birthplace, almost a shrine to the Emperor

(p102)

259 BC

AD 476

774

Rome seizes Corsica and

holds on to it for more than
five centuries

The Western Roman Empire

collapses

Moors from North Africa

begin to raid Corsica

BACKGROUND

DONT MISS...

188

H I S T O RY

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Rome conquered Alalia, renaming it Alria, and set about imposing its way of life
and government upon the islanders, exacting tribute, and even selling some of them
into slavery. The Romans, though, never went to any great pains to improve the island. In what was to become a recurrent pattern in Corsica, those islanders least willing to bend to invaders retired to the interior and the protection of the unconquerable
mountains.

GOTHS, VANDALS & MOORS

After the collapse of the Western Roman Empire in AD 476, the distant Byzantine
Empire (the Eastern Roman Empire, based in Constantinople) began to sni around
former Roman territories such as Corsica. The collapse of Rome had left Corsica vulnerable to Romes own despoilers the Goths under Totila and the Vandals under
Genseric. Its likely that the Vandals, having laid waste to Gaul, took to the water and
sacked Alria too. Byzantiums equally bloody conquest of the island in the first half of
the 6th century ended this brief dominion by Germanic tribes.

BACKGROUND

THE MOORS HEAD

A black head swathed in a white bandana; you see it everywhere on beer-bottle labels,
on the Corsican coat of arms that adorns public buildings and fluttering on Corsicas
traditional flag. It was Pascal Paoli who made the Moors head the islands ocial emblem.
Yet no one really knows why. What deepens the mystery is that the Moors, in their incarnation as pirates from the Mediterraneans southern shores, were one of Corsicas traditional
enemies. During the Crusades, any crusader who had a victory over the infidels could
add the Moors head to his personal coat of arms, suggesting that the Moors head was a
symbol of Corsicas victory over its enemies.
Why, though, does the Corsican Moor wear his bandana around his forehead,
whereas the four Moors on the coat of arms of Sardinia, just to the south, wear theirs
as blindfolds? Corsican General Ghjuvan Petru Gaffori, when he attacked the Genoese
citadel in Bastia in 1745, was perhaps the first to reposition the cloth. Corsica at last
has its eyes open, Gaffori said. And Paoli commented, Corsicans want to see clearly.
Freedom must walk by the torch of philosophy. Could we say that we seem to fear
the light? Both of these remarks suggest that Corsica had come to identify itself with
its Moors head.

1077

1133

1195

Pope Gregory VII appoints

the bishop of Pisa to oversee
Corsican aairs

Pope Innocent II places the

island under the joint yet
separate control of Pisa and
Genoa

Genoa conquers Bonifacio

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During the 8th century Corsica was also increasingly subject to attack by the Moors,
Arabs and Berbers from North Africa. Whether as organised navies or free-booting
pirates, the Moors raided for slaves. From time to time they would take possession of
a coastal village or a wider coastal region, even venturing deeper inland. From the 8th
century right up to the 18th, the islanders lived in perpetual fear of invasion from the
Mediterraneans southern shores.

PISA RULES

GENOA TAKES OVER

Before Italian unification in the second half of the 19th century, Genoa was one of
the great early modern merchant states and a powerful force in the Mediterranean.
Indeed, if it had been more ambitious, Genoa rather than Spain might very well have

1284

1380

1553

Genoa defeats Pisa in the

naval Battle of Meloria, marking the end of Pisan rule and
beginning Genoese
occupation

Bastia founded

French troops land and capture Bastia, declaring Corsica

French territory

BACKGROUND

The 10th century saw the rise to power of the nobility. Important feudal families,
often immigrants from Tuscany or Liguria, on the coast of present-day Italy, created
fiefdoms on the island and ruled them with a rod of iron. Some historians argue that
Corsicas close-knit clan system dates right back to this period.
In 1077 the Pope appointed the bishop of Pisa to oversee his Corsican interests. The
then-powerful Italian city of Pisa, continually at odds with its rival, Genoa, set high
value on commerce and trade and its bishop eectively served as a front man for Pisan
merchants. Corsica too benefited from Pisan overlordship, and this period was one of
peace, prosperity and development. Handsome Pisan-style churches were erected in
the Balagne, the Nebbio and on and around the northeastern coast. Four prime examples are the Cathdrale du Nebbio in St-Florent, the glise de San Michele de Murato
(p57), Aregnos glise de la Trinit (p81), and the Cathdrale de la Canonica in the
Rserve Naturelle de Biguglia.
Pisas good fortune in Corsica aroused the jealousy of Genoa, her perpetual rival. Genoese ambitions took a turn for the better when in 1133 Pope Innocent II
divided the island between these two Italian republics. From that time, Genoa set
about gaining territory piecemeal, picking off villages and advancing little by little.
First Genoa undermined its rivals supremacy by fortifying the town of Bonifacio in the south. Genoese forces then pushed north, where they turned Calvi into
a stronghold. By the 13th century, despite opposition from some island lords who
remained loyal to Pisa, Genoa was top dog. Pisas defeat in 1284 in the sea Battle of
Meloria, a small island near Livorno, marked the end of her domination of Corsica.

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been the first to discover and exploit the Americas; Columbus, after all, was Genoese,
whether he was born in Genoa proper or, as some Corsicans would have it, in Calvi,
which was controlled by Genoa at the time.
Genoa occupied and dominated Corsica for five centuries, during which time the
island was turned into a fortress. However, the Genoese had little sentiment for the
Corsicans, who were made to pay taxes and often evicted
or excluded from towns and put to work on the land
Genoa aimed to
to serve Genoas commercial and economic interests.
Those who disobeyed were punished severely.
turn Corsica into
Genoa aimed to turn Corsica into its breadbasket. It
its breadbasket
created towns and set the population to work cultivating olive and chestnut trees (see p234). By the mid-16th
century, when the Genoese believed they at last had Corsica under control, the islands
strategic importance in the Mediterranean basin was once again a catalyst for major
disruption.

BACKGROUND

SAMPIERO CORSO
In 1552 the people of Siena, another powerful city state, like Genoa, on the Italian
mainland, rose up against the Spanish garrison that was occupying the city and
called on France for protection. The wily Henri II, king of France, saw his chance to
gain territory and influence on the shores of the Mediterranean. Corsica, oshore
and strategically located, got caught up in a conflict that wasnt her own.
In 1553 a French expeditionary corps reached Bastia under the command of
Marchal de Termes and his second in command, the Turkish privateer Dragut, a
French ally. Bastia fell, followed swiftly by other towns, and within only a few days
Corsica was declared French territory.
During this campaign, Sampiero Corso, a Corsican colonel in the French army,
came to symbolise the fight against the Genoese. However, popular though he was
on the island, his unifying presence wasnt enough to safeguard the French victory.
Playing o the Mediterranean superpowers, the Genoese appealed to Charles V,
king of Spain, for support. Charles, smarting from Frances attempt to dislodge his
troops from Siena and always eager to thumb his nose at his neighbour north of
the Pyrenees, went on the attack and the French, after suering a series of defeats,
signed the Treaty of Cateau-Cambrsis in 1559, recognising Genoese supremacy on
the island.

1559

1567

1725

The Treaty of Cateau-Cambrsis recognises Genoese

supremacy once more

Death of Sampiero Corso,

three years after his failed
attempt to assume control of
the island of his birth

Pascal Paoli is born in 1725 in

Morosaglia, in the Castagniccia region

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SAMPIERO CORSO THE FIERY

After this temporary respite under the French, the Corsicans found themselves once
again at the mercy of their familiar oppressor. Sampiero Corso made a brief, independent and abortive attempt to dislodge them in 1564 (see the boxed text, above) but
despite a favourable start, his campaign was short-lived and the Genoese consolidated
their control.

WARS OF INDEPENDENCE
What is known as Corsicas Forty Years War began in 1729, when a determined old
peasant in a mountain village near Corte refused to pay tax to a Genoese tax collector. Following his example, more and more Corsicans refused to pay their tribute to
Genoa. Little by little, the rebels grew bolder, louder and more organised, stealing
weapons and, though disparate and uncoordinated, becoming a threat to Genoese
rule.

1729

175569

1769

First stirrings of the Corsicans

40-year revolt against Genoese occupation

Pascal Paoli attempts to create an independent state of

Corsica

The Battle of Ponte Novo

marks the end of Corsicas
battle for independence and
the beginning of French rule
proper

BACKGROUND

Born in 1498 near Bastelica, Sampiero Corso became known as the most Corsican of
Corsicans. He rose to fame on the mainland as a soldier in the French army. Vehemently
anti-Genoese, Sampiero fought with French forces in 1553 in a bid to reconquer his native
island. Although the Genoese occupiers dislodged the invading French, he refused to give
up hope.
He returned to the island with a band of partisans in 1564, despite having failed to
get European backing for his venture. He managed to destabilise the Genoese for a
short while but never came near to vanquishing them. Three years later, Sampiero was
ambushed and decapitated in a typical Corsican blood feud.
Though a great soldier, Sampiero was short on marital skills. When 47, he married
Vannina dOrnano, 32 years his junior. Some say that while her husband was away
campaigning, she fell under the influence of their childrens tutor, an attested Genoese
spy. More romantically, others have it that she had an affair with Gabriele, a Genoese
artist and childhood friend. Whats certain is that Sampiero strangled her with his own
hands.
Four years later, he was murdered by three Corsican mercenaries, cousins of
Vannina, and his head was publicly displayed in Ajaccio. Thus, humiliatingly, ended
the life of Corsicas first seeker of an independent existence for the island, murdered
by his own compatriots.

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Yet again, outsiders were to determine Corsicas destiny, this time in the form of
the emperor of Austria and his forces, to whom the Genoese successfully appealed for
assistance.
St-Florent and Bastia, briefly held by the rebels, were recovered. After defeat at the
Battle of Calenzana (1732), the Genoese forces regrouped and gradually regained control, but it was a transient success. The revolt recovered momentum and, at a meeting
in Corte in 1735, the Corsicans drew up a constitution for a sovereign state, free and
independent of European interference.
There followed a bizarre episode of the kind that seems to dog Corsican history. In
1736 an eloquent, opportunistic German aristocrat, one Theodore von Neuho, disembarked in Alria. Seeing him as the leader for whom
they had been looking, the rebels allowed this eccentric
a bizarre episode
to declare himself king of Corsica. His reign, however,
lasted barely nine months.
of the kind that
Theodores earlier, undignified flight notwithstanding,
seems to dog Corsithe Corsicans, many of them glad to be rid of this exotic
can history
interloper, pushed on. The Genoese were so rattled that
in 1738 they accepted Frances self-interested oer of
assistance. The French king, Louis XV, was delighted to be involved once more in the
islands aairs, this time with Genoas blessing instead of in the role of invader. He
sent an expeditionary corps to Corsica paid for by the Genoese under the command of General de Boissieux.
In 1753, when the last French regiments pulled out, over 1000 Corsicans had gone
into exile abroad, the rebellion appeared to be over and Genoese rule seemed again
consolidated.

PASCAL PAOLIS REVOLT

Tranquillity, as tends to happen in Corsica, was brief. In 1755, no more than two years
after the last French soldier had sailed away, the charismatic Pascal Paoli (youll often
find the Corsican spelling, Pasquale Paoli) led an insurrection that could so easily have
changed the islands fortunes permanently. Educated in Naples, Paoli succeeded where
all before him had failed, uniting the factions and rival families as one against Genoa.
Whats more, he devised a constitutional state such a novelty in that still dynastic
and absolutist age which, given time, might have ensured Corsica a happy, selfregulating independence. But it was not to be.

1769

1789

1794

Birth in Ajaccio of Napolon

Bonaparte, future emperor
of France

Corsica is formally annexed

to France

British troops seize St-Florent,

Bastia and Calvi; George III,
king of England, proclaimed
as sovereign in Corsica

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PASCAL PAOLI PIONEER

179496

1796

1807

The brief Anglo-Corsican

kingdom

Pascal Paoli retires to London

where he lives in exile

Pascal Paoli, hero of the Corsican independence movement, dies in London

BACKGROUND

Pascal Paoli, Corsicas revolutionary leader, was at the head of Corsica during its short period of independence between 1755 and 1769. On the island, Pascal, known to Corsicans
as the father of the nation, is held in the same esteem as Napolon Bonaparte himself.
Son of Giacinto Paoli, a distinguished rebel leader in the struggle against Genoese occupation, Pascal was born in 1725 in Morosaglia, in the Castagniccia region, where since
1889 his ashes have been buried in the chapel beneath his childhood home (p161).
When he was 14, he followed his father, who had gone into exile during the French occupation, to Naples. Here he received his education, reading the works of radical thinkers of the Enlightenment such as Montesquieu and corresponding with Jean-Jacques
Rousseau. He was only 30 when he returned to the island and succeeded in uniting the
disparate rebel forces. Three months later he was declared General of the Nation.
He managed to winkle out the Genoese from all their strongholds except their six
main fortress towns, which they continued to control. But his short-lived military successes arent his claim to fame. Cultured and intellectually outstanding, as much political
and social thinker as military commander, he developed agriculture, began the drainage
of malaria-infested coastal marshes and promulgated a democratic constitution before
the French Revolution and over three decades before Americas revolutionary thinkers
convened to work out something similar in Philadelphia. In just 14 years, he founded
le Rousse as a rival to Genoese Calvi, established the Moors head (see the boxed text,
p188) as Corsicas symbol and set up a mint in the tiny town of Murato. With his power
base in Corte, hes also remembered as the founder of Corsicas first university.
His efforts to root out criminality and Corsicas trademark murderous vendettas
were heroic. The English writer James Boswell visited Paoli and was a voice for the
Corsican cause in Britain. The later religious reformer John Wesley called him, with
more than a measure of hyperbole, as great a lover of his country as Epaminondas
and as great a general as Hannibal.
In 1769 his outnumbered troops were routed by the superior French forces and Paoli
took refuge in England. In 1789 a different post-revolutionary France made its peace
with the erstwhile rebel commander and sent him back to France with the title of lieutenant-general. Flattering this was for Paoli but, soon alienated by the excesses of the
revolution on the mainland, he summoned a regional assembly in Corte, declared himself president and formally seceded from France, later offering his island to the British.
Retiring to a life of exile in London in 1796, he was granted a pension and died there
in February 1807. Theres a cenotaph in his honour in Westminster Abbey.

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Genoa made several desperate, disastrous attempts to regain control of an island

that had seemed hers for ever. Then the French seized the opportunity they had been
waiting for. In 1764 France, scarcely 30 years after her first intervention at Genoas request and on the Genoese side, accepted the increasingly enfeebled Genoese city states
oer for her to take over the strongholds of Bastia, Ajaccio, Calvi and St-Florent, thus
eectively gaining control of the whole island.
The Treaty of Versailles, four years later, formalised the Genoese cession of Corsica
to France, which began acting less like a mediator and more like a ruler.
Pascal Paoli was the victim of decisions taken far away from his island. He mobilised
his supporters but they and their resources just couldnt compete. Their defeat at the
Battle of Ponte Novo on the River Golo, northeast of Ponte Leccia, on 8 May 1769,
marked the beginning of French rule of Corsica and Paoli fled to London.

BACKGROUND

CORSICA, FRANCE
Yet again Corsica had a military government of outsiders. In re-establishing law and
order and taking control of the administration, the French followed the example of the
Genoese, but more softly, softly. They promulgated a new set of laws, the Code Corse,
relevant to the island and taking into account its peculiarities, and they made earnest
eorts to increase the yield of Corsican agriculture. Corsica increasingly adapted itself
to a style of French governance but one that would soon be blown apart, on the island as on the mainland, by the French Revolution.
Many Corsicans initially applauded the revolution. For the impoverished islanders,
it gave new voice to popular dissatisfaction. In 1789 a decree proclaimed: Corsica belongs to the French Empire and its people shall be governed by the same constitution
as the rest of France. An amnesty was granted and Paoli returned to the island.
But reconciliation between Corsica and France was not total. In 1793 Paoli was
blamed for the failure of the French revolutionary governments expedition to Sardinia, just to the south of Corsica. He had, it was alleged, committed fewer troops than
the government had expected. In Paris, the extreme Revolutionary Convention that
had judged and executed Louis XIV and his queen, Marie-Antoinette, ordered Paolis
arrest for counter-revolutionary behaviour. Paoli, for his part, declared Corsicas secession, and requested help from Britain.
Spain, France, the Austro-Hungarian Empire and here, invited to feast at the table, was yet another imperial player. For Britain this was an opportunity of the same
kind that Genoas cry for help had been for France.

1811

1894

191418

Emperor Napoleon decrees

that Corsica will be a single
dpartement

Completion of the railway

between Ajaccio and Bastia

In WWI 30,000 Corsicans die

fighting for France

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19TH & 20TH CENTURIES

Corsica periodically asserted its individuality during the 19th and 20th centuries,
rejecting on occasion central government decisions from Paris. The clan structure
endured and there was an upsurge in banditry. During this period levels of rural
poverty endured, and attempts to develop infrastructure and agriculture achieved
little.
Under Frances second empire (185270; at its head, Napolon III, son of Napolon Is brother Louis) real investment was made in Corsicas infrastructure (such
as the Corsican rail network that continues to trundle along today). Corsicans took

1940

1943

1962

Corsica is occupied by more

than 90,000 Italian and German troops during WWII

Corsica is the first region of

France to be liberated by the
Allied forces in WWII

Arrival of first pieds noirs,

French returnees from newly
independent Algeria

BACKGROUND

Ranging the Corsican coast in 1794, the British fleet easily captured St-Florent,
Bastia and Calvi (it was during the battle for Calvi that Admiral Horatio Nelson
lost the sight in his right eye). George III, king of England, was proclaimed sovereign in Corsica. But Paoli soon became disillusioned with the British. He had
believed Britain to be liberal and enlightened but quickly grasped that his new
sponsors were no more likely to benefit Corsicans than so many other alien rulers
had been. Local hero Paoli was passed over for the vice-royalty and again went into
exile in London, where he died in 1807, in receipt of a modest British government
pension until his last day.
The Anglo-Corsican kingdom had lasted just over two years. As Jonathan Fenby
drily observes in his excellent On the Brink: The Trouble with France, two years of
nominal rule by George III, who was proclaimed AngloCorsican King cannot have been much of a consolaNapolons
tion for having lost America.
single ambition
Following the English departure in 1796, the islands
for Corsica was to
aairs came once again under the jurisdiction of France
and its post-revolutionary leader, Napolon Bonaparte,
make it French,
Corsican by birth but little else.
once and for all
Far from promoting the special interests of the island of his birth, the future emperors single ambition
for Corsica was to make it French, once and for all and completely. Immediately,
Napolons enforcers came into conflict with the clergy, resulting in an anti-French
insurrection in 1798. Mistrustful of Corsicas own political class, Napolon excluded
Corsicans from island administrative posts and broke the island up into the two
dpartements that exist to this day.

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NAPOLON BONAPARTE: SON OF CORSICA?

BACKGROUND

Paradoxically, the islands most famous son did more to Frenchify Corsica than any other
individual. Despite his early expressions of Corsican patriotic feeling, Napolon was
extremely ambivalent, even hostile, about his native island.
In his final exile on the island of St Helena in the southern Atlantic, someone asked
him why hed never done more to help develop Corsicas economy. His answer: Je
nen ai pas eu le temps (I never had the time). His policy towards Corsica, once installed as emperor of all France, was chilly, even cynical. Let the Corsicans keep their
religion and their priests, he said, but let them love France and serve in her armies. A
mere two roads, one between Ajaccio and Bastia, one between Bastia and St-Florent,
should suffice, he said, for a people whose principal highway should be the sea.
Native Corsicans, he decreed, were to be excluded from the administration of the
island since they simply werent trustworthy.
In 1814, the year of Napolons first definitive defeat, the people of Ajaccio threw a
bust of the Emperor into the sea, while the citizens of Bastia actually welcomed British
troops. Corsican resentment, however, seems to have passed with time and, by the
mid-19th century, the house in Ajaccio where Napolon was born (p102) was almost
a place of pilgrimage. Nowadays, Napolon is still lionised as the homeboy who made
good in the wider world and brought the island fame.

advantage of the greater employment opportunities available in mainland France in

enormous numbers, and they also filled a disproportionately high number of posts
throughout the French colonial empire. On the downside, 30,000 Corsicans, a huge
number compared to the islands slender population,
died for France on the European battlefields of WWI.
30,000 Corsicans
WWII brought hostilities to the island itself. In 1940
died for France on
Corsica was occupied by more than 90,000 Italian
and German troops. Those who opposed the occupathe European battion forces took to the countryside, to the maquis, the
tlefields of WWI
tangled cloak of undergrowth that covers much of the
island, and the term was coined to describe the whole
of the French resistance movement. In 1943, Corsica was the first region of France
to be liberated and, like its neighbouring islands in the Mediterranean, served as a
forward base for the liberation of mainland Europe.

1975

1976

1981

The island is divided into two

dpartements, Haute Corse
and Corse du Sud

Front de Libration Nationale

de la Corse (FLNC) formed

Inauguration of the University of Corsica Pascal Paoli

in Corte and creation of the
Corsican regional assembly

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197

THE CORSICAN MALAISE

1983

1998

2001

The central government outlaws the FLNC

Frances top ocial on the

island, Claude rignac, is
assassinated by nationalist
extremists

Assassination of Franois
Santoni, former leader of the
FLNC

BACKGROUND

Corsicas latter-day diculties date primarily from the 1960s, when a movement for
Corsican autonomy was formed to combat what some perceived as Frances colonialist policy towards the island. One particular source of friction was Frances use
of Corsica for the resettlement of thousands of pieds noirs, French citizens living in
North Africa who fled Algeria when that country achieved independence.
In 1975 tensions exploded when Corsican separatists, led by the Simeoni brothers,
unearthed a scandal in the eastern coastal town of Alria, involving fraudulent winemaking practices in a winery run by a pied noir. The protesters occupied a building
used to store wine and an attempt by the police to resolve the situation ended in two
deaths.
The Front de Libration Nationale de la Corse (FLNC) was formed in 1976, and talk
of autonomy increasingly turned to claims for full independence. That year averaged
more than one bombing per day and the violence, usually against property and often
settling arcane internal scores, continued at a reduced level for well over a decade.
In the early 1980s two measures were adopted to appease the nationalists. Firstly,
a university was opened in Corte; for many years, after the French had closed down
Pascal Paolis university, young Corsicans had travelled to mainland France or Italy
for their higher education. Secondly, the Assemble de Corse was created; previously,
the island had belonged to the Provence-Alpes-Cte dAzur region. The dtente arising from these measures was short-lived, however, and in 1983 the government tried
unsuccessfully to proscribe the FLNC.
By the 1990s the FLNC had broken into multiple splinter groups, all armed and
mostly violent, and other independent groups had sprouted. From 1993 to 1996 these
groups warred against each other every bit as vigorously as they had previously opposed the perceived coloniser. Long regarded as the caretakers of Corsicas environment against external depredations and indierence, the nationalist movements were
increasingly seen by many as gangs of hoods and thugs, who considered Rambo-like
armed conflict and protection of their cronies private interests as more important
than political action.
The quarrel continues to this day in various arenas such as policies for economic
development, the environment and language. Tourism is a particularly sensitive area.
It brings wealth to an island with poor soil for agriculture, few resources and virtually
no industry. Yet for the nationalists, tourism is seen as a tool of assimilation. Much of
their rage is reserved for concrete holiday developments (second homes are a favourite

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target of the bombers), which tend to be ghost communities, except for the two
months of high summer (this said, the separatists have maintained a strict hands-o
policy regarding tourists themselves).

BACKGROUND

CORSICA TODAY
The assassination in 1998 of Claude rignac, the regional prfet (prefect) and as such
the most senior representative of the French state on the island, had a huge impact.
His death sparked strong expressions of disgust among Corsicans themselves, with as
many as 40,000 taking to the streets to demonstrate.
French President Lionel Jospins government launched a Clean Hands operation, aiming to reinforce law and order on the island, but his tough approach failed
to win the hearts and minds of most Corsicans, who felt they had been demonised as
terrorists.
The responses of successive French governments both left and right were alternatively muscular police enforcement and open or o-the-record talks with nationalist
leaders. The cause of law and order wasnt helped by the torching of an illegal beachside shack by, it was soon revealed, undercover police working to instructions from
none other than Bernard Bonnet, the hardline successor to the murdered rignac as
prfet (this was no set-up: Bonnet was tried, found guilty and sentenced to three years
in prison for his abuse of power).
As a result of negotiations in 1999 within what came to be known as the Matignon
Process, a law was passed granting greater autonomy to the island and retaining several of its preferential fiscal privileges. It also stipulated that the Corsican language
should be taught as a subject in primary school and approved a massive program of
yet more investment in the island amounting to 2000 million over 15 years.
In July 2003, after 30 years of nationalist violence and 200 years of French rule, Corsicans were invited to vote on their future status in a referendum linked to plans for
decentralisation throughout France which would have united Corsicas two dpartements into a single administrative region. The vote was split virtually 50:50 right up to
polling day, when those who rejected the proposal, which was supported by nationalist leaders, won by a small margin. The result was seen as a snub to both these local
leaders and to Prime Minister Jean Pierre Raarins plans to decentralise power while
keeping Corsica under French rule.
In December 2007, almost 10 years after the event, Yvan Colonna, one time lifeguard, fireman and trainee teacher who became a goatherd and whose father was

2002

JULY 2003

2003

The Matignon agreement

grants additional autonomy
to the Assemble Territoriale,
the Corsican regional
government

Arrest of Yvan Colonna,

accused of the murder of
Claude rignac

The anti-independence lobby

narrowly wins a referendum
on autonomous rule for
Corsica

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a member of the French parliament was convicted of the assassination of Claude

rignac (see the previous section) and sentenced to life imprisonment. After a major
manhunt and nearly five years on the run, he had been captured, hiding in a shepherds hut in southern Corsica, together with a bag containing a grenade, a Luger
pistol, a pair of balaclavas and 3700. Still locked up, he has repeatedly claimed his
innocence and, especially around Cargse and Corte, youll see banners and slogans in
his support.
In the 18 months preceding our research on the island, there were 22 clan slayings, mostly a settling of scores in broad daylight and many carried out with powerful
hunting guns equipped with telescopic sights. Not one has resulted in a prosecution,
principally because witnesses are unwilling or too scared to talk. By contrast, in 2008
the number of bombings, whether for political or gangland motives, was at its lowest
since 1973. However, at 89 blasts, its still a figure that would make most of the rest of
the world shudder.
Corsicas long legacy of terrorism, violence, significant graft and insularity to the
outside world shows little sign of abating despite the desire of the vast majority of
islanders to have a job, relative comfort and be able to get on with their lives as both
Corsicans and French citizens.

BACKGROUND

2004

DECEMBER 2007

2008

A right-wing coalition wins

regional elections, thanks
to a pact with the Corsican
nationalists

Yvan Colonna is found guilty

and sentenced to life
imprisonment

Part of the Assemble de

Corse building burns
following a nationalist
demonstration

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ALL ABOUT CORSICA

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

ALL ABOUT CORSICA

BACKGROUND

BEING CORSICAN
Corsicans are conservative, stoical, tradition-loving people with an integrity that
doesnt suer fools gladly. While their reputation for being hostile and unwelcoming
is unjustified, theres a grain of truth in the stereotype. Dont expect to find arms wide
open to greet you, particularly in some of the more remote mountain villages. That
said, once youve earned the trust and respect of a Corsican, you wont find a more
hospitable, generous host.
If asked, an overwhelming proportion of the population will say that it feels Corsican first of all and only secondly French. Centuries of invasion and occupation have
created a kind of siege mentality. Just look at the islands military and defensive architecture muscular citadels and bastions guard strategic coastal towns like Bastia, Calvi
and Bonifacio, while a necklace of 67 Genoese watchtowers girdle the coast, originally
intended as an advance warning system for pirate attacks.
Hardly surprising then is the insular, inward-looking mentality of the islanders.
While few Corsicans are blatantly xenophobic, a deep-seated desire to protect their
cultural identity can sometimes lead to an island-first mindset and an acceptance of
outsiders that on occasion borders on mere tolerance. The message behind the bullet-ridden road signs, with the French place name spray-painted out will be lost on
very few.
The tourist industry, by far the islands largest provider of employment, is, for
some, a mixed blessing. According to more than a few nationalists, the steady stream
of tourists (more than two million annually, bringing in a minimum of 1
ROAD SIGNS
billion) only serves to exploit the enviRoad signs in Corsica express much
ronment and denude the regions culmore than an indication of the next
tural fabric. Compare the homogenous
village or town. With the French version
coastal development and the ostentaof the name spray-painted out by moretious maisons dAmricains (sumptuous
ardent nationalists, they represent a
homes financed by returnee Corsicans
modest, high-profile political statement.
who want to make a statement of wealth
Theyre also targets in a more literal
and success) with the modest, fortresssense. Youre bound to come across
like native architecture constructed
signs peppered with bullet holes to the
from local materials like granite and
point where some are illegible. Far from
slate and youll instantly be aware of the
being the work of B-grade movie hoods,
contradictory forces at play. Add to this
theyre an expression of the jubilation
a love-hate relationship with mainland
of a group of hunters at the days bag,
France and what are perceived as its
or the result of a little sharpshooting
self-interested policies for the region,
practice in preparation for the next
and you may begin to understand the
prowl through the maquis in search of
Corsican psyche.
warm-blooded prey.

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THE FAMILY & THE CLAN

HONOUR & VENDETTA

A sense of honour is a particularly important legacy of the islands turbulent past. A
bloody vendetta might result from a land dispute, amorous rivalry or nothing more
than injured pride. Blow and counterblow, such tit-for-tat killings might continue for
generations unless the parish priest managed to broker an accord that both families
would accept.
The island has spawned a number of bandits of
honour, outlawed and seeking refuge in the maquis,
A bloody vendetta
sometimes for years, after having avenged an oence
might result from
by violent means. Even today, such cases rarely come to
nothing more than
trial because of the silence of potential witnesses, even
injured pride
from the families of those gunned down, and the polices inability to assemble enough evidence to secure a
conviction.
Weapons have always been an important part of Corsican culture and not only
for hunting. Today, though, visitors need not fear getting caught in the crossfire of

BACKGROUND

Corsicans have long learned to rely on no one but themselves, and the family remains
central to island society. Attitudes are changing, but many families still live according
to the traditional family model, with women staying at home and men going out to
earn a crust. These clearly defined gender roles were originally dictated by the practical division of labour with the men away from home pasturing their flocks, women
were left running the house and raising the children although nowadays theyre as
much about tradition and social convention as practical necessity. Still, 29 out of 51
representatives in the Corsican assembly are female, demonstrating the growing sea
change in attitudes.
Family ties are strong in Corsica. Children often live in the family home until well
into their 30s or until marriage, when they may then move out but remain within
shuing distance of the family roof. This is largely an economic decision as young
people, particularly if unemployed, simply cannot aord to leave home. Unless, of
course, its to emigrate.
Outside the main towns life can be desperately quiet especially in the mountain
villages in winter, when theres a mass exodus of Corsicas young people to Marseille,
Nice and Paris until the tourist season rolls around again. For many village families
who have moved to Ajaccio, Bastia or other coastal towns, the original home still retains a powerful pull. Closed and shuttered for most of the year, it comes to life each
major holiday, when family members return to their village and their roots.
Certain rules of inheritance have served to preserve Corsican family unity and continuity. The aliation to a clan automatically provides an extended family, which also
includes members of a village community in a structure that is protective of its influence and authority. However, Corsica isnt one big happy family; ties within families,
clans and villages are matched by wariness of those on the outside other families,
clans and villages.

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feuding families or protectionist mafia rackets; apart from the odd burnt-out shell of
a building, you probably wont even be aware of the internal machinations of the islands myriad factions.
Corsicas traditions, marked by a code of obligatory hospitality and often wildly
disproportionate rough justice, have never been universal on the island nor without
dissenters. However the response to the violent traditions has often itself been of equal
violence. Pascal Paoli, during the brief lifespan of independent republican Corsica in
the mid-18th century, perhaps meant to help his countrymen rethink their antique
and chilling concept of honour, when he razed the homes of vendetta murderers and
put up signposts to publicise the occupants crimes. Napolon was even more extreme:
if a murderer could not be arrested, he had four of the oenders close kinsmen arrested and executed instantly.

BACKGROUND

IMMIGRANTS & MIGRS

Armenians, Parsees, Jews and Corsicans too; the 260,000 inhabitants of the island are
way outnumbered by the number of migr Corsicans. How many have left the island
and sunk roots elsewhere can only be guessed at, especially since many have intermarried, choosing partners from their new society. Guestimates vary wildly between
800,000 and 1.5 million, worldwide. Whats more verifiable are ocial statistics indicating that in mainland France there are around 600,000 Corsicans a number that swells
considerably each autumn, once the tourist season is over and the islands hotels and
restaurants put up their shutters and dismiss their sta. Most Corsican residents on the
mainland, whether seasonal or permanent, live in Marseille and around Provence.
This is no new phenomenon. In the 19th century as the
French Empire expanded, particularly in Africa and SouthCorsicas best and
east Asia, Corsicans, escaping from an island with no industry to speak of and few prospects for employment, sought
brightest left the
their fortune in faraway lands. From privates to senior ocisland to study
ers, they were active in the army and were to be found out
and often did not
of all proportion to the islands population behind adminreturn
istrative desks as customs ocers, governors, administrators
and many more occupations that called for a suit or uniform.
Two presidents of Venezuela can claim Corsican ancestry and its estimated that around 4%
of the population of Puerto Rico has a predominance of Corsican blood in its veins.
In early modern times, privileged Corsicans would head for Italy for their education
from school to university. Pascal Paoli (see the boxed text, p193) opened the first university in Corsica in 1765, but when the French took over soon after, they closed it down. For
the next two centuries, Corsicans seeking higher education were obliged once again to
leave the island for Italy or, as was increasingly the case, for the French mainland. The result was an epidemic brain drain. Corsicas best and brightest left the island to study and
often did not return. This negative flow was only remedied in 1981, when the University
of Corsica Pascal Paoli in Corte opened for business in response to nationalist demand.
Of Corsicas total population of 281,000, roughly 100,000 live in the two major
towns of Ajaccio and Bastia. Although this island-wide figure represents an overall

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increase of 1% in the last decade (and a healthy figure compared with the all-time low
of 170,000 inhabitants in 1955), depopulation remains a serious concern in the mountain hamlets and villages. A high 84% of Corsicas population lives in the 87 communes
around the coast, while in as many as 137 communes of the interior, more than half of
the villagers are aged over 60.
Inversely, one in 10 people living on Corsica is non-French. Moroccans account for
just over a half of these, ahead of Portuguese, Italians and Tunisians. In fact, outside
le de France, Corsica is the region with the highest proportion of foreigners in France.
Of those who come to Corsica, most are young men seeking work in the agricultural,
building and, to a lesser degree, tourism sectors. They are easily absorbed during the
season but with significant unemployment in the more spartan months and the annual brain drain of Corsicas youth to mainland France, resentments can run rife.

FAITH, FEASTING & FOLKLORE

Conservative and for much of the year politely reserved, Corsicans let go with a bang
during their great festivals. These boisterous occasions reveal much about the islanders long-held beliefs, mixing myth with faith and folklore.
Although the island is overwhelmingly Catholic, Catholicism in Corsica coexists
with vestiges of mystical and superstitious practices such as the spiritu (the dead
who return from beyond to revisit their terrestrial homes) and the malign power

Corsicas greatest architectural treasures are ecclesiastical; products of Pisan and Genoese
influences that brought new and more sophisticated architectural styles to the island.
The most notable and numerous of these are the Pisan Romanesque churches of the 11th
century and the northern Italian baroque of the 17th and 18th centuries.
At the end of the 11th century the Pope appointed the bishop of Pisa to oversee
papal interests on the island and as a result there are some delightful examples of
Pisan Romanesque churches and cathedrals. They are distinctive by the chequered
polychrome walls and engagingly naive sculptures and friezes. Among the most impressive are the Cathdrale de la Canonica, south of Bastia, and the glise de San
Michele de Murato (p57) in the mountains south of St-Florent. Youll come across
others in the Nebbio, Castagniccia and Balagne regions, where Pisan influence was
strongest.
In contrast to the restrained Pisan style is the extravagance of the baroque style
that the Genoese introduced to the island six centuries later. Rather than the simple,
graphic facades favoured by the Pisans, the islands baroque churches are notable
for their sculptural triangular or curvilinear pediments and sumptuously decorated
interiors, which make extensive use of trompe lil, stucco and polychrome marbles.
Many churches in the Balagne and Castagniccia were built in this style, often with
freestanding bell towers. Out of a total inventory of about 150, good examples include
the churches and oratories of Bastia and La Portas church of St-Jean Baptiste (p160) in
Castagniccia.

BACKGROUND

RELIGIOUS FLOURISHES

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BACKGROUND

of the occhju, the evil eye. Other popular and fearful forces are the strega, a witch
who slips through the keyhole at night to prey upon young children and suck their
blood, and the lagramanti, spirits of the mist who hover near lakes and rivers,
their laments enticing passers-by to a watery doom. More positively, the signatoru
is a medium with the power to cure illness and parry the force of the evil eye by
incantations.
Beliefs shaped by centuries of rural life are evident in many of the more memorable
festivals, especially the elaborate Easter week processions in, for example, La Cerca and
the Catenacciu, plus Bonifacios unique procession of the Five Orders. And theres certainly no lack of religious fervour in each towns saints day celebrations and during the
lavish Holy Week processions of towns such as Bonifacio, Sartne, Cargse, Calvi and
Erbalunga.
For the visitor, observing a Corsican festival holds the key to a deeper understanding of the people themselves. The striking costumes and jewellery of the women show a profound appreciation of skilled handicraft, while traditional pastimes
like polyphonic singing, horse- and boat-racing
allow men to display their courage, nerve and skill. Rural fairs celebrating local produce are also hugely popular and allow the visitor to immerse themselves in local
culture and buy top-quality regional specialities.

THE CORSICAN VOICE

A voice from the depths of the earth, a song from the dawn of time. So wrote Dorothy Carrington on first hearing Corsicas unique polyphonic singing. Youre bound
to hear it, wafting out of cafes and restaurants or played over the speakers sotto voce
as you inspect supermarket shelves or sit waiting at a bus station. But for uninterrupted pleasure and time to appreciate its melodic intricacies and haunting refrains,
you need to attend a recital, often as not held in the local parish church. In summer,
several ensembles tour the island and any tourist oce can give you details of upcoming events.
As emotional as flamenco, recalling ancient Gregorian chants and with strains
that seem to have wafted over from the southern, Arab and Berber side of the Mediterranean, it speaks to the soul. Its singing for solidarity, typically in a trio or small
chorus, where each male participant takes a dierent melody, and its sung a cappella, without musical accompaniment. The Corsican anthem, Diu vi Salvi Regina,
at once hymn and both battle and rallying cry, is often sung a cappella on public
occasions.
The paghjella, for three or four male voices, is the
paghjella speak of
form that youre most likely to hear. The men, usupowerful emotions ally dressed in black, stand with a hand over one ear
separation and
so as to hear their own inner voice without being
parting, lament,
distracted by the sounds of their neighbours. Often,
loss and unrequited they will put an arm around each others shoulders,
emphasising the collaborative, mutually supportive
love
nature of what they are creating. Each voice contrib-

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SACRED SONG & THE CUNFRATERNITA

Sacred song, often to this day sung in Latin, tends to be more formal, though infused
with elements of the paghjella. This is the genre of the Mass and accompanies religious
festivals such as local saints days or the elaborate Holy Week processions. Often the
singing at such public celebrations is undertaken by members of the local cunfraternita, or lay brotherhood.
At funerals too, the cunfraternita normally sings. The voceru, a womens art, is sung,
mournfully, at the wake that usually follows. The women sob and rock to and fro as if
in a trance, and their singing is halting and usually improvised. In the old days, during
vendettas, the voceri were typically accompanied by cries for vengeance. In the lamentu, a gentler expression of the same general genre, a woman bemoans the absence of a
loved one.
The chjame rispondi have a call and response form that recalls the conventions of
some spiritual and blues music. As chjame rispondi are improvisational, they lend
themselves to competitions.

BACKGROUND

utes a dierent harmonic element: one

TINO ROSSI
provides the melody, another the bass,
while the third, more high-pitched,
In the field of popular music and in his
improvises on the theme. The themes
prime, Ajaccio-born Tino Rossi simply
of the paghjella are usually secular and
was Corsica to mainland France and
speak of powerful emotions separamuch of the world beyond. With his
tion and parting, lament, loss and love,
dapper suits, slicked-back hair and Latin
more often than not unrequited.
lover persona, he managed in the course
Corsican vocal music is not always
of his crooning career, from his first
performed a cappella. It might somerecordings in the 1930s through to his
times be accompanied by wooden or
death in 1983, to record precisely 1014
songs and sell over 300 million records.
horn flutes, percussion or the cetera, a
16-stringed instrument. Most Corsican
folk instruments are typically windbased, as youd expect from a primarily pastoral society. Fifes and flutes such as a
caramusa, u liscarolu and a ciallamella are fashioned from wood or bone. Rhythm is
often provided by chjoche (castanets), while violins, the cetera or guitars will supply
the string accompaniment.
Groups that have recorded traditional Corsican forms (and whose recordings you
will find on the island) include the seminal Canta U Populu Corsu, now fragmented
and dispersed in dierent musical directions, the Celtic-inspired and hugely successful I Muvrini, the professional choir A Filetta and I Chjami Aghjalesi.
A new breed of musicians has evolved a hybrid sound that blends both traditional Corsican music and wider influences. Cinqui So, from Ajaccio, mixes polyphonic
music with earthy world music beats, while Isula, with its dance beats, and more
rock-oriented groups such as Ghostone, Triok and Blague Part also pay tribute to
their musical roots.

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OUTDOORS
If you want it, Corsicas got it. The extraordinarily varied terrain of this sparsely populated island and the fretted coastline lapped by azure waters provide an incredible
stage for the action seeker in search of anything from canyoning and parcs aventure
(adventure parks) to multiday horse-riding trips not to mention superb Via Ferrata
circuits and fantastic hiking trails. Seafaring types will appreciate the good kayaking
and diving opportunities that abound on Corsicas coasts.
If youre not that sporty, take heart. Theres no need to be an extreme athlete to enjoy the outdoors in Corsica. Theres something for everybody; all outfits welcome beginners and provide initiation circuits and courses that are tailor-made for those who
want to experience the islands wild side without the strain. High standards of professionalism are pretty uniform whatever the activity you choose. This is your chance to
stimulate your senses in grandiose scenery.

BACKGROUND

DIVING
When it comes to providing enthralling diving for the experienced and novices alike,
Corsica is without peer in the Mediterranean. Its appeal is due primarily to its unbeatable repertoire of diving adventures. Shipwrecks, planewrecks, fish life in abundance
and a dramatic seascape (as dramatic as on land, which is saying a lot), with needles,
drop-os and arches, are the reality of diving here. Youll come across big groupers,
barracudas, dentex and rays, as well as a host of technicolour critters that flutter
around rock formations. Those riches are accessible to beginners, and there are sites
for all levels. Its also a great place to learn to dive. Added bonuses include low pollution and warm waters in summer.
The best season for diving is from May to October. The water temperature peaks at
a warm 25C in August. A 5mm wetsuit is recommended. Visibility varies a lot, from
a low of 10m at certain sites to a maximum of 40m. The libeccio (southwesterly wind)
can roil the waters in some of the less protected gulfs.

DIVE CENTRES
There are about 35 dive centres in Corsica. Most are open from April to October. All
of them are aliated to one or more professional certifying agencies (usually CMAS
and, less frequently, PADI). You can expect well-maintained equipment and qualified
instructors who speak English. But like a hotel or a restaurant, each dive centre has its
own style. Do your research and opt for the one that best suits your expectations. They
oer a whole range of services and products, such as introductory dives (baptmes),
night dives, exploratory dives, speciality dives (eg Nitrox dives) and certification programs (usually CMAS or PADI). The price of an introductory dive includes equipment
hire, while the price of an exploratory dive varies according to how much equipment
you need to rent. Youll be looking at 40 to 55 for an introductory dive and 35 to
45 for a single dive. There are usually five- and 10-dive packages, which are much
cheaper than single dives. An Open Water Certification program costs from 300.

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207

If youre a certified diver, dont forget to bring your C-card and your logbook with
you. Dive centres welcome divers regardless of their training background, provided
they can produce a certificate from an internationally recognised agency, such as
CMAS or PADI.
A medical certificate is also mandatory if you take a course or several dives. You
can get one from your doctor in your home country or have it emailed to the dive
centre. Otherwise, you can get one from any doctor in Corsica (23 the price of a
consultancy).

DIVE SITES
THE SOUTH

INTERVIEW: GEORGES ANTONI

Why is diving in Corsica so special? Corsica is a like an oasis in the Mediterranean. Conditions are optimal: theres no pollution, no industries, no sewage, no fertilisers. Another key
factor is the topography: theres no continental shelf here, so you get fantastic drop-os
and a dramatic seascape that you wont find anywhere else in the Med.
What about fish life? We also have two big marine parks, Scandola and Lavezzi, and marine life is abundant. We get lots of barracudas and rays, which you would normally only
encounter in tropical seas. And groupers are so prolific!
Whats your favourite area? Each area in Corsica has its own riches. Take Porto-Vecchio:
youll feel like youre diving in the Seychelles. In the Cap Corse, the ambience is totally different. And near Bastia, youve got excellent wrecks. All the divers Ive met in Corsica rave
about the diving here, whatever the location.
Georges Antoni is a Corsican underwater photographer, film-maker and writer.

BACKGROUND

Porto-Vecchio is consistently billed as a great diving destination. A dozen or so dives

can be taken in this area, mainly in the vicinity of the les Cerbicale. These islets act as
a magnet for a wealth of species. Porto-Vecchio also boasts one excellent wreck, at the
harbours entrance.
Bonifacios main claim to fame is the concentration of groupers (big ones!) near the
les Lavezzi sightings are guaranteed. The quiet awe of a dive with these thick-lipped
creatures is unforgettable. Mrouville is an iconic spot, although it tends to be pretty
congested in summer.
The Tizzano area is a real gem, with a host of untouched sites for those willing to
venture away from the tourist areas. Diving here is focused on the secs (seamounts)
that lie o Cap Senetosa. Its got plenty of fish and its atmospheric. The hitch? Most
sites are exposed to the prevailing winds expect agitated seas.
Around the Golfe du Valinco its the dramatic underwater terrain that impresses
more than anything, making for unique profiles. Youll be rewarded with a profusion of seamounts, giant arches, boulders and faults its very scenic as well as large
numbers of species, including barracudas. Red coral can also be found at depths exceeding 30m.

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THE WEST COAST

The Golfe dAjaccio is a divers treat, with a good balance of scenic seascapes and
dense marine life. The most spectacular dives in this area are found mainly in the
southern section of the gulf, between the Tour de lIsolella (also known as the Punta di
Sette Nave) and Capo di Muro. Theres also a handful of sites scattered along the les
Sanguinaires in the north.
Golfe de Lava and Golfe de Sagone boast a vibrant assemblage of dramatic rock
formations that shelter a stunning variety of species. And theres the iconic Banc
Provenal, which ranks as one of the best dives in the Mediterranean. In the Golfe de
Sagone, the wreck of an airplane that crashed in 1971 adds a touch of variety.
Golfe de Porto is consistently billed as one of Corsicas best diving areas. Do you see
the exceptional coastal wilderness of the gulf and the crags and clis of Les Calanques
that fret the skyline? Its more or less the same story below the waterline. This gulf
boasts a rich diversity of underwater wonders, with a jaw-dropping topography just
as on land and masses of fish due to the proximity of the Rserve Naturelle de Scandola. Dont miss it. One proviso: its very exposed to the libeccio, the prevailing wind.

BACKGROUND

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

The many contrasts in the area around Calvi make it attractive to divers. While the
southern part of the bay is nothing to write home about, the shoreline around the
Pointe de la Revellata, to the west, is extraordinary. The wreck of a B-17 bomber in the
Baie de Calvi is another draw.
Theres nothing to boggle the mind in the Baie de Lle Rousse, but at least it oers
relaxed diving, and the handful of sites that are available rocks rising from a sandy
seabed and cloaked with magnificent sea fans are truly beautiful. The Golfe de StFlorent has a couple of good surprises up its sleeve too.

DONT MISS...
DIVE SITES

La Pinella (Porto-Vecchio) // A photogenic shipwreck, close to the harbour

Le B-17 (Calvi) // Wreck of a well-preserved B-17 bomber

La Canonnire (Bastia) // This 45m-long wreck shelters groupers, lobster, corbs and
conger eels

Mrouville (Bonifacio) // Bonifacios signature dive; groupers galore!

Les Cathdrales & Les Aiguilles (Golfe du Valinco) // Dubbed an underwater

Bavella, these long-standing favourites boast a contoured terrain

Sette Nave (Golfe dAjaccio) // Lots of nooks and crannies in the rock formations and
a profusion of marine life

Le Banc Provenal (Golfe de Lava) // A phenomenal seamount that brushes the

surface and a magnet for all kinds of species

Punta Mucchilina (Golfe de Porto) // Tons of fish, a small shipwreck and an

awesome terrain, just outside Rserve Naturelle de Scandola

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BASTIA & THE EAST

Corsicas eastern coast is usually overlooked by most divers, which is a shame.

True, this side of the island lacks the dramatic seamounts and contoured terrain
that are so commonly encountered on the west coast, but the gently sloping sandand-silt sea bed is strewn with rocky outcrops that provide shelter for a whole
range of critters. And wreck fans will find nirvana here too, along the eastern coast
of Cap Corse, with a number of well-preserved ship- and planewrecks in less than
30m of water.

SNORKELLING
If the idea of total immersion doesnt exactly appeal to you, snorkelling is possible
in most areas. It is a fantastic opportunity to explore the underwater world with
minimal equipment and without the hefty costs associated with diving. Corsicas
rocky shoreline is a magnet for all kinds of species, and the sheltered bays provide
safe havens for snorkelling. Bring your equipment, because rental gear is not widely
available. A few dive centres operate dedicated snorkelling trips. Top tip: combine
sea kayaking and snorkelling paddling to more-fertile grounds expands your
possibilities.

Given the constant winds that bluster around the island, windsurfing and kitesurfing
are popular pastimes here.
Windsurfer rentals and lessons are available at virtually all centres nautiques (nautical centres) but the best spots are on the south coast, near Bonifacio, which has the
best winds year-round. For those of us whose windsurfing dreams are more modest,
lots of fun can be had in the main gulfs on the west coast, including Golfe du Valinco
and Golfe dAjaccio.
Looking for a new high? Kitesurfing is one of the fastest-growing sports in Corsica and should be on every adrenaline junkies must-do list. Kitesurfing takes the
best of board sports and combines it with incredible airborne action. While it may
be impressive to watch, its harder to master. Aficionados of surfing, skateboarding
and windsurfing will recognise the moves thatll help, but youll need some lessons before hitting the water. First you learn how to fly the kite, then you practise
body dragging (letting the kite pull you across the water) and finally you step on
board.
The Corsican kitesurfing epicentre is on the southern coast at Bonifacio. Plage de
la Tonnara, Plage de Piantarella, Plage de Balistra and Golfe de Sant Amanza are
the best spots, where youll find major schools oering lessons and rental gear. In the
north, Calvi and Algajola are good places to head to.
Hawaii it aint, but Corsica has a thriving local surfing scene, especially in the Ajaccio area. The Corsican surf spot is Capo di Feno, with good breaks year-round. Algajola, east of Calvi, is also a prime surf spot.
If you want to learn to surf, theres a surfing school in Ajaccio.

BACKGROUND

KITESURFING, WINDSURFING & SURFING

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WHITE-WATER RAFTING
Corsicas best white water is found along the Golo Valley (near Ponte Leccia) and in
the Tavignano Valley (near Corte). Both oer magical white-water experiences for
both first-time runners and seasoned enthusiasts.

BACKGROUND

SEA KAYAKING
With its craggy coast and generally good conditions, Corsica is now garnering fame as
a sea kayaking hot spot. Aside from being an ecofriendly approach to environment
paddling leaves minimal imprint sea kayaking is a great way to explore the pristine coast at a gentle pace. The sheltered coves provide
magnificent kayaking (and bathing) opportunities, and
Sea kayaking is
paddlers get to savour secluded bays and beaches seldom
a great way to
visited by others. And kayaks can nudge into some of the
explore the pristine tiny islets that are denied to larger boats and that are not
accessible by road.
coast at a gentle
Most outfits also oer guided kayaking trips, with a
pace
focus on the environment, geology and marine life a
wonderful way to get more out of your holiday.
Guide and rental companies are clustered around Propriano, Porto-Vecchio, Tizzano, Porto, le Rousse and Bonifacio. Most centres nautiques have one- or two-person
kayaks for hire. Some outfits also have tri-yak (kayak built for three), ideal for two
parents with a kid.
Some recommended spots include the Golfe de Pinarello near Porto-Vecchio, Campomoro, Tizzano, Porto Pollo, Calvi and le Rousse. See the destination chapters for
contacts.

CANYONING
A must-do for thrill seekers and nature lovers, canyoning is a mix of climbing, hiking,
abseiling (rappel), swimming and some serious jumping or plunging down water-polished chutes (toboggans) in natural pools, down a river gorge and waterfalls. In recent
years Corsica has seen an explosion of interest in canyoning, and its no wonder its
an exhilarating way to explore the most scenic and least accessible areas of the rugged
interior.
The Massif de Bavella is the mother of all canyoning experiences on the island,
with three iconic (though now heavily commercialised) canyons: La Vacca, La Purcaraccia and Le Pulischello, which are set in some of the islands most memorable
scenery. They are suitable for all levels. Another classic venue is the Canyon du
Baracci near Propriano. In the Valle du Niolo, the Canyon de la Ruda and the Canyon de Frascaghju are the main hot spots and are accessible to beginners, while Canyon de Falcunaghja, a very aerial circuit with no less than 17 rappels, is best suited
for sporty types. Near LOspdale, the Canyon de Piscia di Gallo is a must, with a
series of impressive rappels. If you want to escape the crowds, the canyons located in
the Corte area are a good choice, as they are much less hyped the Canyon du Vec-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

OUTDOORS

211

chio and the Canyon du Verghjellu come recommended. In the Vizzavona area, near
Bocognano, the Canyon de la Richiusa ranks as one of the most atmospheric spots
in central Corsica.
Experience is not necessary. Water confidence and reasonable fitness are an
advantage. Adventure centres that oer canyoning (see the destination chapters)
provide wetsuits, helmets and harnesses. All canyoning trips are led by qualified
instructors who intimately know every pool, slide, boulder and waterfall in any particular canyon. A half-days canyoning will set you back around 50. Bring a picnic
and spare clothes.

CYCLING & MOUNTAIN BIKING

fun for all levels (p183)

BACKGROUND

Ready to sweat it out? Theres no better way to immerse yourself in the vibrant colours, heady scents and rugged scenery of Corsica than cycle touring as long as youre
fit enough to handle the islands mountainous topography, that is. Corsica has diverse
terrain, tough ascents and swooping descents, an abundance of camping grounds and
gtes dtapes (walkers lodges) and countless country roads, most of which are gloriously free of trac. The Castagniccia, the Casinca, the Cap Corse, the Central Mountains, the Alta Rocca, the Balagne and the West Coast (especially between Porto and
Calvi, and between Ajaccio and Propriano) are excellent cycling areas, all blessed with
exceptionally scenic backroads.
The biggest bonus of all might be the opportunities to discover the real Corsica,
with its secretive villages and traditional culture, far from the madding crowds and the
glitz of the coastal cities.
If this gets your legs twitching, try to avoid July and August, which are unpleasant,
for the heat and the enormous influx of tourists. Spring and autumn, with their moderate temperatures, are the best seasons.
Bike hire is available in the main seaside cities, but if youre going to be doing
extensive cycling, consider bringing
your own wheels. Bike shops are thin
DONT MISS...
on the ground, so its essential to carry
spare parts. Most outlets require a deCANYON DESCENTS
posit (cash, signed travellers cheques
Baracci // Near Propriano; easy
or credit card) of anything from 30
(p121)
to 250. Several places arrange guides,
La Ruda // Valle du Niolo; easy and
plan itineraries and run biking tours.
very scenic (p180)
Mixing cycling with public transport
La Vacca // Bavella area; fantastic
works pretty well. Bikes can be carried on
scenery but crowded in summer
the train and some bus services carry bikes
(p148)
too. Cyclists keen to see Corsicas mountainous interior usually begin by taking the
Verghjellu // Near Corte; easy and
train to Corte, Vizzavona or some other
uncrowded. Lots of small leaps
starting point high in the mountains. (See
(p183)
p274 for information on travelling by train
La Richiusa // Near Vizzona; lots of
with your bike.)

212

OUTDOORS

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BACKGROUND

HORSE RIDING
Feel like seeing the island from horseback instead of a car seat? Saddling up is a fun
and ecofriendly way to commune with the Corsican wilderness and enjoy the long
sandy beaches, glorious hinterlands and lush forests.
Horse riding is commonplace on the island and opSaddling up is a
portunities can be found just about everywhere, within
fun and ecofriendly reach of the main tourist areas. You dont need any
riding experience, as riding schools (centres questres)
way to commune
cater to all levels of proficiency. Unlike many parts of
with the Corsican
the world where beginners only get led by the nose
wilderness
around a paddock, here you really can get out into the
countryside on maquis, forest and beach rides.
Rides range from one-hour jaunts (from around 17) to week-long, fully catered
treks. The best thing about horse riding in Corsica is that you can access terrain
you cant get to otherwise a wise way to escape the crowds. The best time to trek
is in spring or autumn, when its a bit cooler, though summer excursions usually
explore the cooler mountain areas. Particularly good areas include the Alta Rocca,
the Castagniccia, Sartne, Solenzara, Corte (especially the Valle du Tavignano),
the Valle du Niolo and the Porto-Vecchio area. Choose a ride based on the particular landscape youd like to see, since all of the operators are friendly, reputable
outfitters.
Donkey rides are also available near Propriano, in the Valle du Niolo and in the
Balagne children (and adults) love it!
See the destination chapters for more details of individual riding centres.

PARAPENTING
On the north coast, the St-Florent and Calvi areas rank as the best paragliding spots
in Corsica, with consistently excellent upliftings throughout the year. If youre new to
dangling yourself in the air, you can tandem paraglide. The descent from the mountain is amazing, with pupil-dilating views over the coast. Landing is on the beach.
Children are welcome.

PARCS AVENTURE
Parcs aventure (adventure parks) are very popular in Corsica, and we recommend that
you to try it at least once during your stay. The experience of swinging through the
forest la George of the Jungle is one that few nature lovers should pass up. Dont be
confused, though: its not a theme park.
Various companies have built a network of fixtures into the trees, at heights varying
from a few metres to about 25m above ground. They usually include aerial platforms,
walkways, Tarzan swings, suspension bridges, cable bridges, vertical nets and zip lines
(also known as Tyrolean slides), which are all connected. Visitors are strapped into
harnesses and hooked onto a cable-and-pulley system that allows them to move safely
from tree to tree.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

OUTDOORS

213

Its another great and thrilling way

ZIP LINING
to see nature, and its amazingly safe.
Children are welcome provided they
Corsicas zip lines (also known as Tyare over 1m in height. For kiddies,
rolean slides) let you soar freestyle along
special baby parcs have been installed.
cables over gulches, woods and rivers
Depending on the circuit, the tour lasts
while strapped into a harness. The hardanything from 30 minutes to two hours.
est part is stepping o the platform for
All you need is shorts or long pants, a
the first zip the rest is pure exhilaration!
T-shirt and trainers. You are provided
All parcs aventure include zip lines
with a harness and helmet, and the cirin their circuits but for the full monty,
cuit usually begins with a crash course
head to Valle de lAsco, where youll
on how to use the equipment. Qualified
find a dedicated circuit, with a sucinstructors are positioned at designated
cession of 12 zip lines, the longest of
areas throughout the circuit and can
which spans over 250m!
provide tips or assistance.
The most reputable parcs aventure are
concentrated in southern Corsica. The best ones are located in Bavella, LOspdale,
Propriano, Solenzara, Valle du Cavu (near Porto-Vecchio) and Vizzavona. Other
good playgrounds include Valle de lAsco and Valle du Niolo in central Corsica.

As the most mountainous of the Mediterranean islands, Corsica is something of a Holy

Grail for any would-be Spiderman or Spiderwoman. The majority of climbing options are
concentrated in central or southern Corsica. The most famous spot is around Aiguilles de
Bavella, with superb clis and granite spires. Other hot spots include the Valle du Niolo,
the Valle de la Restonica, the Valle de lAsco and the Gorges du Prunelli. For superclimbers, the Paglia Orba is the ultimate face.
Adventure centres around the island run courses and organise climbing trips.

BACKGROUND

ROCK CLIMBING

SKIING
Strange as it may seem, Corsica has three winter ski resorts: Bastelica-Ese in the Valle du Prunelli, about 30km east of Ajaccio, Ghisoni and Verghio. The season normally runs from December to March. They have limited infrastructure: a few refuges
(mountain huts) that rent out equipment, a couple of ski lifts and a few downhill runs.
Frankly, its nothing thrilling, but where else in Europe can you ski with the azure waters of the Mediterranean in the background?
Cross-country skiing is also popular in the Fort de Valdu Niellu, high in the Valle
du Niolo, and on the Coscione plateau in the Alta Rocca.

07-background-cor5.indd 213

3/09/2012 2:16:06 PM

214

WALKING & THE GR20

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

even bridges to allow progress on steep or vertical clis. Steel cable, acting as both a
handhold and security, is bolted to the rock at waist level, with walkers clipping onto
it with a lanyard (dynamic rope) and karabiner system. In short, its a mix of rock
climbing
walking.
More
circuits
alsoofinclude
zippaths,
lines mountain
for added thrills.
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necklaced
with
an recent
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There
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culty.walkers
Novicesthe
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along narrow
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deeper recesses
and its convoluted
of enigmatic
valleys.
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Children
over
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Walking options range from the most challenging two- or three-week hike, such as
first via ferrata
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publishes
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wealth
of
%

WALKING & THE GR20

information about the park in English, Spanish and French, along with a number of
walking guides (mostly in French).
For more information on walking, contact the Comit Rgional de la Randonne
Pdestre de Corse (%04 95 77 18 21; 6 rue du Capitaine Benedetti, Sartne).
The GR20 has its own website (www.le-gr20.com).

BACKGROUND

THE GR20
Linking Calenzana, in the Balagne, with Conca, north of Porto-Vecchio, this fantastic
high-level walk stretches diagonally from northwest to southeast, following the islands continental divide.
The diversity of landscapes makes this a memorable adventure, with forests, granite
moonscapes, windswept craters, glacial lakes, torrents, peat bogs, maquis, snowcapped
peaks and plains.
Although the mythical GR20 is a genuine mountain route that requires physical commitment, it can be undertaken by anyone reasonably fit and with a good deal of motivation. Its usually covered in 15 tapes (stages) but you can tailor it to your own expectations and make it shorter if you wish, thanks to various access points along the way.
The obvious way to divide the GR20 is into two sections: from Calenzana to
Vizzavona (over nine days), and south from Vizzavona to Conca (in six days). Vizzavona is the most convenient midway point, with train and road links to Ajaccio
and Bastia. Between Calenzana and Vizzavona, its possible to join the trail at several villages along the way: Haut Asco (at the end of Day 3), Castel di Verghio (at the
end of Day 5) and Tattone, a short side trip from the main trail (on Day 8). For just
a small taste of the GR20, Days 4 and 5 take in some of the most spectacular scenery
of the whole walk, across the Cirque de la Solitude.
In the southern section of the GR20, Zicavo (Day 13), and Quenza and Bavella (Day
14) are all popular access points for walkers. Reaching Zicavo and Quenza involves a
detour from the GR20, but these traditional villages, tucked away in remote valleys,
are well worth exploring in their own right.
Hint: its possible to do demi-tapes (half-stages): Days 5, 13 and 14 can be broken
down into two days each.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

WALKING & THE GR20

0
0

WALKING & THE GR20

0
!

215

20 km
10 miles

Barcaggio

#
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216

WALKING & THE GR20

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

The GR20 can be comfortably walked any time between May and October, although
some parts of the route remain snow-covered until June, making them tricky to negotiate. The peak-season months of July and August are best avoided if you have an aversion to crowds. From mid-August to the end of September, there are frequent storms,
especially in the afternoon.
Weather in the mountains can fluctuate quickly between extremes. You can call
%08 92 68 02 20 for the latest weather reports (in French).

BACKGROUND

ACCOMMODATION
Refuges (mountain huts) are usually manned from May to September. Some stay
open until mid-October if the weather is fine. Most refuges on the GR20 oer petit
ravitaillement (supplies), soft drinks, alcohol (beer and wine) and simple meals,
which can save several kilograms in the backpack. Water is available at every refuge,
but between stops there are very few sources of drinking water. Camping gear is
strongly recommended, as there is only a limited number of places available in refuges along the way, and they tend to fill up quickly in summer. Note that, as of May
2009, reservations can be made online at the PNRC-run refuges (check out www.
parc-naturel-corse.com). When camping you have access to equipment inside the
huts. Note that there are also a few hotels along the way at Haut Asco, Castel di
Verghio and Vizzavona.
Dont forget to carry a good supply of cash, as there are no ATMs on the GR20 and
credit cards are only accepted in a few places.

BOOKS & MAPS

The excellent Fdration Franaise de la Randonne Pdestre (FFRP) Topo-Guide
Travers la Montagne Corse (No 67) details the GR20. The FFRP also publishes Corse
entre Mer et Montagne. Albianas GR20 Le Grand Chemin (in French) is also comprehensive. Cicerones Corsican High Level Route: GR20 is a handy English-language
companion for the trail.
Waymarking (balisage) and signposting of the path is usually excellent (red and
white paint stripes) but topographical IGN 1:25,000 maps are recommended (Nos
4149OT, 4250OT, 4251OT, 4252OT, 4253OT and 4253ET).

THE MARE A MARE & MARE E MONTI ROUTES

Well-known and much-enjoyed walks across the island include the Mare e Monti (Sea
and Mountains) and Mare a Mare (Sea to Sea) trails. Although less overhyped than the
GR20, these routes take in some spectacular mountain and coastal scenery, with the
added bonus of ending each day comfortably in a village. They also oer a shorter and
less intimidating physical challenge than the GR20.
Unlike the GR20, which stays high in the mountains away from settlements, the
Mare a Mare and the Mare e Monti routes pass through some of the prettiest villages
on the island. The routes are generally less taxing and less crowded than the GR20 and
oer considerable comfort, with gtes dtape and hotels every night.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

WALKING & THE GR20

217

THE MARE A MARE ROUTES

Three Mare a Mare paths link the west and east coasts via the central mountains.
MARE A MARE NORD

The Mare a Mare Nord is said to be the prettiest of the Mare a Mare trails. It links
Moriani on the east coast to Cargse on the west and passes through vastly dierent
areas. It is split into 10 days, each lasting from four to six hours and reaching altitudes of up to 1600m. For the final section of the walk, between visa and Cargse,
the route merges with that of the Mare e Monti Nord. It is better to avoid walking
during the period between November and April, when parts of the route may be
buried under snow.
MARE A MARE CENTRE

MARE A MARE SUD

This famous, easy walk links Porto-Vecchio in the southeast to Propriano in the
southwest. The walk is divided into five days, each of which lasts an average of five
hours, and reaches a maximum altitude of 1171m. With fine views to the Aiguilles de
Bavella and Monte Incudine, it crosses through the magnificent region of Alta Rocca
and many of the islands most beautiful villages. The third day of the trail oers three
options: a short version that skips the Plateau de Jallicu, a detour through the village
of Aullne or a long version via Zonza, which adds a day to the itinerary. This route is
passable year-round.

THE MARE E MONTI ROUTES

As the name suggests, these are paths between the sea (mare) and the mountains
(monti). Accommodation is oered by gtes dtape in villages along the way.
MARE E MONTI NORD

The Mare e Monti Nord (literally Sea to the Northern Mountains) is a superb (and
not very demanding) walk linking Calenzana in the Balagne to Cargse, south of the
Golfe de Porto. It is divided into 10 days of four to seven hours each, and its highest
point is 1153m. It passes through several exceptional natural sites, such as the Fort
de Bonifatu, the Rserve Naturelle de Scandola and the Gorges de Spelunca, and
stops in some gorgeous villages, notably Galria, Ota and visa.

BACKGROUND

The Mare a Mare Centre provides an excellent opportunity if you want to explore
the more traditional, inland areas of Corsica. The route can be completed in seven
days, each with three to seven hours walking. Starting in Ghisonaccia on the east
coast, and finishing in Porticcio on the west coast, it passes through the little-known
microregions of the Fiumorbu and the Taravo before crossing the hinterland of
Ajaccio.
The maximum altitude is 1525m at Col de Laparo (Bocca di Laparu), so the best
time to do the walk is between April and November. Take a detailed map, as the markings are not very regular.

218

WALKING & THE GR20

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

THE GR20
Day

From

To

Duration
(hr)

Distance
(km)

Diculty

Calenzana
(275m)
Refuge dOrtu di
u Piobbu (1570m)
Refuge de
Carozzu (1270m)
Refuge dAsco
Stagnu (1422m)
Bergeries de
Ballone (1440m)
Castel di
Verghio (1404m)
Refuge de
Manganu (1601m)
Refuge de Petra
Piana (1842m)
Refuge de lOnda
(1430m)
Vizzavona (910m)

Refuge dOrtu di u
Piobbu (1570m)
Refuge de
Carozzu (1270m)
Haut Asco
(1422m)
Bergeries de
Ballone (1440m)
Castel di
Verghio (1404m)
Refuge de
Manganu (1601m)
Refuge de Petra
Piana (1842m)
Refuge de lOnda
(1430m)
Vizzavona (910m)

10

Demanding

Demanding

4-5

Moderate

Demanding

6-7

13

Moderate

14

Moderate

10

Demanding

10

Easy

10

Moderate

5-5

13.5

Moderate

6-7

16

Moderate

5-5

9.5

Demanding

7-8

14.5

Moderate

5-6

13

Moderate

4-5

12

Moderate

2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

BACKGROUND

10
11
12
13
14

15

Bergeries de
Capannelle (1586m)
Refuge de Prati
(1820m)
Refuge dUsciolu
(1750m)
Refuge dAsinao
(1530m)
Refuge de Paliri
(1055m)

Bergeries de
Capannelle (1586m)
Refuge de Prati
(1820m)
Refuge dUsciolu
(1750m)
Refuge dAsinao
(1530m)
Refuge de Paliri
(1055m) via the
Alpine Route
Conca (252m)

The route is passable year-round, but the periods before and after the main season
(May to June and September to October) are preferable to avoid the worst of the heat.
The path crosses the Mare a Mare Nord in two places: visa and nearby Marignana.
MARE E MONTI SUD

This path runs between the bays of two well-known seaside resorts in southwest
Corsica Porticcio and Propriano. Its divided into five days of five to six hours and
ascends to a maximum height of 870m. There are stops in Bisinao, Coti-Chiavari,
Porto Pollo and Olmeto. The walk ends in Burgo (7km north of Propriano).
The highlights are the incredible views over the bays, the historic Genoese towers
and superb beaches (the Baie de Cupabia and Porto Pollo). Like its northern counterpart, this path is passable year-round and is not particularly dicult. Spring and
autumn are the best times. The path meets the Mare a Mare Sud in Burgo.
There are only two gtes dtape on the route, one in Bisinao and one in Burgo. In
the other villages you can stay in a hotel or at a campsite.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

WALKING & THE GR20

219

OTHER WALKS
Walking in Corsica is by no means limited to the GR20 and the Mare a Mare and Mare
e Monti walks. Theres every bit as much, and perhaps more, for those who prefer an
easy walk of a single day, half a day or less. Details of some of the best short walks are
in the regional chapters of this guide.
The PNRC can provide brochures on easy country walks it has designed around
the villages of Alta Rocca, Boziu, Fiumorbu, Niolo, Taravo, Vnachese and Giussani
all in interior parts of the island that visitors dont often see. These walks, all three
to seven hours in length for the round trip, are perfectly suited to casual walkers and
even to families.

BACKGROUND

220

F L O R A & FAU N A O F C O R S I C A

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

FLORA & FAUNA OF CORSICA

A rich variety of flora and fauna, much of it protected, thrives on Corsica. Set so
much as a little toe into the islands interior and youll come across a menagerie of
free-roaming pigs, cows, goats, sheep, mules and other domesticated and feral land
animals. Delve deeper into the mountainous terrain (pack patience and a pair of binoculars in your rucksack) and youll be well rewarded.

FAUNA

BACKGROUND

WILD BOAR (SANGLIER)

Boar hunting is a centuries-old Corsican tradition. All the same, wild boar, tough,
doughty cousins of the domestic pig, continue to thrive.
Omnivorous and prowling Corsicas extensive and litIf you see the forest tle-trodden maquis and forest, they snout out acorns,
chestnuts, roots, fruit, insects and worms. If you see the
floor scuffed and
forest floor scued and uprooted, a wild boars probably
uprooted, a wild
been at work; theyre the bane of the farmer, to whose
boars probably
lands they can cause extensive damage. Females and
been at work
piglets stick together. If you see a lone one, its probably
a male (take care he can put on a surprising show of
speed and those tusks are sharp!)
RED DEER (CERF DE CORSE)

The last indigenous Corsican red deer, a native of Corsica ever since antiquity, died on
the island in the 1960s, but was reintroduced in 1985 from Sardinian stock. Initially
confined to protective enclosures in Quenza, Casabianca and Ania di Fiumorbu, the
first deer were released into the wild in the late 1990s and are now breeding modestly.
These gentle creatures live on brambles,
strawberry trees, acorns and chestnuts,
DONT MISS...
and now number over 100. Wild boars,
foxes, stray dogs and poachers continue
BIRDWATCHING SPOTS
to threaten their existence.
Rserve Naturelle de Scandola //
View osprey from an offshore boat
(p83)

MOUFLON

Corsicas mountain king, the mouflon,

reigns in the Bavella and Asco protected
areas. These hardy herbivores, a type
of short-fleeced sheep, roamed in their
thousands at the beginning of the 20th
century but now number between 400
and 600. Hanging out in lower valleys
between December and February, they
retreat to higher altitudes to avoid the

Barcaggio // At the tip of Cap Corse

looking over to the protected les
Finocchiarola (p46)

tang & Rserve Naturelle de

Biguglia // Where migrating birds
take a break (p228)

Valle de la Restonica // Raptors

wheeling overhead (p177)

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worst of the summer heat. If the one you spot (look for distinctive white facial markings) has huge 80cm-long coiled horns, its a male.
HERMANNS TORTOISE

Once widespread around the northern Mediterranean littoral, this slow mover, easily identified by its orange and black stripes, is nowadays extremely rare in mainland
France. Between mid-November and February it hibernates in the maquis, tucked
away under piles of leaves. Averaging about 20cm in length, it can live for up to 80
years. In the face of declining numbers, its being specially bred in semicaptivity at the
Village des Tortues, near Ponte Leccia, in the Parc Naturel Rgional de la Corse.
CORSICAN SNAIL

This tiny little fellow, ocially classified as critically endangered, merits a mention.
Endemic to Corsica and generally tucked inside a black and brown striped shell, the
green-bodied Corsican snail (helix ceratina) only just hangs on. Having not been seen
since 1902, a group were discovered near Ajaccio in 1995. Assailed by the airport, a
military base, a large car park and a busy beach, these plucky molluscs had chosen a
tough spot to make their last stand. The six hectares of coastal land they inhabit is now
protected, and a captive breeding program is underway.

The maquis can bristle with animal activity on a smaller scale. Weasels and foxes slink,
dark-green snakes slither (dont worry if you come across one; theyre not poisonous
and wont attack unless threatened) and shiny back malmignatte spiders scuttle (look
for red stripes on the abdomen); theyre venomous but mercifully rare.

BIRDS
The islands a delight for birdwatchers. Along Corsicas central spine and more accessibly in places such as the Valle de la Restonica near Corte, birds of prey such as the
golden eagle and red kite soar up high above the treeline. Within the forests, the Corsican finch, wren and spotted flycatcher live their lives.
But its the Corsican coastline that has the richest pickings for twitchers. Everywhere, gulls wheel and cormorants in plenty hang their wings out to dry. The shag, a
web-footed bird with black-green plumage, nests on the protected les Finocchiarola
o Cap Corse and in the Rserve Naturelle de Scandola, where the peregrine falcon is
another known nester.
The edge-of-the-world hamlet of Barcaggio on Cap Corse is prime birdwatching
territory. Spring sees storks, herons, spotted crakes and dozens of other migratory
birds drop by.
BEARDED VULTURE (GYPATE BARBU)

Youll need to keep your eyes well peeled to spot a bearded vulture or lammergeier
with its soaring wingspan of up to 3m. Look for the distinctive black beard under
its beak, and white or yellowish plumage covering the lower part of its body. The
rarest of Europes four vulture species, the bearded vulture nests in rocky niches at

BACKGROUND

OTHER CREATURES

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high altitude (around 1500m) but descends to lower altitudes in winter. You wont
find this solitary bird joining the vultures feeding frenzy at a carcass. It waits for
its moment, seizes a sizeable bone then drops it from a height onto a rocky surface
to shatter the bone and release the marrow at its heart. Your best chance of seeing
it is in the Monte Cinto massif. With barely 250 breeding pairs left in Europe, its
on the endangered species list. Starvation is one of the biggest threats to its survival. In the Parc Naturel Rgional de la Corse, park authorities monitor the dozen
or so pairs that live within its bounds and supplement their natural diet with additional food in the form of goat and sheep carcasses at sites in Ascu and the Fort
de Tartagine.
OSPREY (BALBUZARD PCHEUR)

The osprey is a formidable fisher, thanks to its sharp eyesight and talons that can
sink into the slipperiest of fish. With a white body and brown wings, it can be spotted
around Cap Corse and on the rocky coasts and headlands of the Rserve Naturelle de
Scandola, where it nests. Having dropped to only three couples in the 1970s, its now
very slowly recovering numbers.

BACKGROUND

CORSICAN NUTHATCH (SITELLE)

The Corsican nuthatch, one of the few species endemic to the island, flutters in the
Valle de la Restonica. Discovered at the end of the 19th century, this ground-dwelling bird is recognisable by the white brow across its head. Rarely exceeding 12cm in
length, it flits around conifer forests, dining on insects and pine seeds.
AUDOUINS GULL (GOLAND D AUDOUIN)

Very rarely found on mainland Europe Audouins gull clings on in (or rather, just o)
Corsica, nesting among rocks on the protected les Finocchiarola o Cap Corse. Its
main point of identification is the darkred, black-striped, yellow-tipped beak.
THE ASPHODEL

FLORA
A mere 15% of Corsican land is cultivated, while forest and maquis carpet
more than half of the island. The habitat
of its trees and flora splits neatly into
three zones:
Mediterranean (up to 1000m) Cloaked at ground
level by the extensive maquis. Oak, olive and chestnut
trees thrive, according to area.
Mountain (1000m to 1800m) Clad with pine and
beech forest.
Alpine (above 1800m) Ground--hugging, sparse
grasses and small mountain plants cling on above the
treeline.

This hardy plant with its white or delicate

pinkish flowers grows at all altitudes and
can survive in just about any kind of soil.
Flowering in the springtime, it has three
distinct names in Corsican (and several
dialectal variants too), depending upon
whether the speaker is referring to the
living plant, its dried form or when its
burnt to give light. Traditionally, its stalks
would be twisted to make torches, while
the leaves would be used for stung
mattresses and saddles. More symbolically, they would be woven into crosses
which villagers believed would protect or
enhance their harvests.

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TREES
Common varieties of tree that youre certain to see include the following.
Olive (olivier) Thrives on low, dry, sunny coastal

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PRICKLY FRUIT
The prickly pear (figue de barbarie in
French, or Barbary fig) is a member of the
Cactaceae family that thrives anywhere
between 800m and 1800m. Originating
in Central America and brought back by
Christopher Columbus, it resembles a
cactus, with bristly, pulpy, oval-shaped
pads and yellow flowers. Its sweet, juicy
red fruits are thirst-quenching, but dont
be tempted to grasp one with your bare
hands; the soft skin is coated with myriad
near-invisible, hair-like prickles that
irritate the skin and are the very devil to
extract from your fingers.

SHRUBS & OTHER PLANTS

Nearly 3000 species of flora have been identified on Corsica. Since the island has been
physically separated from the European mainland for millennia, a good number of
plants have evolved separately from their cousins on the mainland and are unique to
Corsica. There are 130 endemic plants, while a further 75 exist only here and on its
neighbour, Sardinia. In the more remote Alpine zones, nearly half of the species that
survive the harsh winters at this height are endemic.
THE MAQUIS

The maquis positively bursts with sweet-smelling plants and herbs, most of which
flower in spring and early summer. Extending over around 2000 sq km, its made up of
dense thickets of often thorny plants whose tough, leathery leaves preserve moisture.
Here, tree heather can grow 2m tall, its white flowers exuding a honey-like perfume.
Typically scrubby and short, the maquis is tough enough to survive summers intense heat, burns quickly, but grows rapidly too. It provides a safe haven for most of
Corsicas 40 kinds of orchid and pungent herbs such as rosemary, thyme, lavender,
myrtle and the tiny blue-violet flowering Corsican mint with its heady summertime

BACKGROUND

slopes, particularly in the Balagne on the northwest coast.

Its pollen-rich yellow flowers bloom in June. The bitter
fruit is pressed to extract the prized AOC Corsican olive oil.
Chestnut (chtaignier) Introduced to the
island in the 16th century, the chestnut quickly lent its
name La Castagniccia to the eastern plains on which
it was cultivated. Its husks open in October to expose a
flavourful brown fruit, which is used in local cuisine or
ground into flour. See also p234.
Holm oak/holly oak (chne vert) Recognisable by its deep-hued bark and dark, oval, spine-tipped
leaves. Traditionally, its wood was processed into charcoal. Its acorns impart a very special flavour to pigs that
gobble them.
Cork oak (chne lige) More common in the south of the island, around Porto-Vecchio, its bark is peeled o
every 10 years or so to fashion stoppers for wine bottles a long-standing Corsican tradition that suers these days
from the increasing use of plastic corks.
Laricio pine In the higher mountain areas, the tough Corsican or laricio pine dominates and can grow up to 100m
high. As it ages, this long-living tree spreads its grey-green foliage horizontally like a parasol. Some island specimens
(youll come across some venerable examples in the Fort de Vizzavona) are reckoned to be up to 800 years old.
Maritime pine (pin maritime) Recognisable by its orange-red, deeply fissured bark and needles that come
in pairs, its less hardy than the laricio pine and thrives, as the name implies, in coastal and lower-lying areas.

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aroma. Drier hillsides and the lower flanks of mountains flame with bright yellow
broom throughout the summer.
TYPICAL CORSICAN FLORA

Other common species that youre likely to come across:

Autumn crocus This late bloomer lives up high. The distinctive pink to lilac flower with its spear-shaped petals
appears well before the scarcely visible leaves, which grasp it around its base.

BACKGROUND

Corsican hellebore This poisonous plant, a variant found only in Corsica and Sardinia, has frondy, toothed
leaves (in which shepherds used to wrap their fresh cheeses) and a profusion of lovely, light-green flowers.
Corsican peony Once profuse, this local variant of peony has papery pink or red flowers with yellow stamens
and likes to live beneath beech trees. A victim of its very prettiness, its becoming rarer, mainly as a consequence of
overpicking.
Corsican thyme Heres another variant upon a popular theme, found only in Corsica and Sardinia. Low growing,
bushy, with delicate pink and white flowers and a powerful aroma, it thrives anywhere between 500m and 2000m.
Cyclamen The tiny wild cyclamen, an early flowerer, peeks out from rocks and crannies in pink clusters.
Mastic A tall shrub whose red fruits turn black and exude a resin-like fragrance.
Myrtle A bushy evergreen shrub with aromatic leaves and lovely, fragrant white flowers that bloom in spring. Its
blue-black berries make a wonderful flavouring for liqueurs.
Rock rose/cistus The most common maquis shrub, it thrives up to around 1200m. Youll recognise it by its fivepetalled flowers, which are either white or pinkish-mauve with yellow stamens. Among several varieties of rock rose is
the more diminutive Montpellier cistus with its dainty white flowers.
Strawberry tree Known in French as the arbousier and nothing to do with strawberries, this shrub thrives in
thickets and woods and can grow to over 10m. It has small, white bell-shaped flowers that dangle in clusters. The fruit
is small, crinkly surfaced orange or red balls.
UNDERWATER PLANTS

Don a snorkel and mask, and be dazzled by the Corsican coastlines extravaganza of
flora as rich and as brilliant underwater as any on dry land. Two forms of special
interest are:
Poseidonion Endemic to the Mediterranean, this green plant (named after Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea),
forms vast grassy meadows on the sand creating a choice biotope, home to numerous species of fish seeking shelter or
spawning in the foliage.
Seaweed There are several forms: brown, green or red, hard or soft. Calcified varieties can have superb mineral
formations. Certain species of red algae are recorded nowhere else in France.

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A FRAGILE ENVIRONMENT

Corsica (p227)

THE ISSUES
FIRE
Fires are by far the biggest threat to the islands sun-sizzled environment. The scrubland of the Corsican maquis, which flares at the strike of a match, is assailed from
many sides. Of the thousands of fires reported each year, its calculated that some 90%
are started by campers, cigarette smokers, arsonists or irresponsible visitors on picnics.
Other culprits include hunters (setting fire to forests to drive out wild boar), property
developers (who sometimes start fires wilfully), shepherds (who burn expanses of land
to make meadows for grazing) and farmers (burning stubble to produce potash, which
is used to improve soil quality).

BACKGROUND

Le soleil a tant fait lamour la mer quils ont fini par enfanter la Corse (The sun made
love to the sea so often that they finally gave birth to Corsica). So eloquently and fancifully, Antoine de St-Exupry, author of Le Petit Prince (The Little Prince), described
the origins of the island.
Around 30 million years ago a lump of land broke away from mainland Europe,
slowly spun around an axis somewhere in the middle of the Gulf of Genoa, and eventually came to a standstill 170km southeast of Nice on mainland France. Corsica was
born.
With an area of 8722 sq km, the island spans 183km from top to bottom and 85km
at its widest point. At its northern end the long 40km-long peninsula of Cap Corse
points towards Italy like a giants finger. Inland, mountains run riot. No sooner does
the land rise above sea level than it soars into the clouds, climaxing with Monte Cinto
(2706m). Plenty of other peaks Monte
Ritondu (2622m), Paglia Orba (2525m),
DONT MISS...
Monte Pedru (2393m) and Monte dOro
(2389m) beat the 2000m barrier.
PROTECTED AREAS
Corsicas constantly fretted shoreline
Rserve de Biosphre de la Valle
wriggles its way for more than 1000km,
du Fangu // Paddle a canoe along its
if you were to religiously make your way
quiet length (p71)
around every bay, cove and inlet. The
two coasts, west and east, dier. Into the
Rserve Naturelle de Biguglia // A
more fragmented west coast, bueted by
treasure for walkers and birdwatchers
the dominant wind from the west, four
(p228)
deep gulfs of Porto, Sagone, Ajaccio
Rserve Naturelle de Scandola //
and Valinco have been scoured and
Approached only by boat for
crags rear from the sea. Alongside the
fabulous seascapes (p83)
more gentle, less dramatic eastern coast
Parc Naturel Rgional de la Corse //
runs the lowland agricultural plain of
Huge protected swath of high, inland
Alria.

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TREADING LIGHTLY

BACKGROUND

Weve no wish to play nanny and much of this is common sense. That said, you too, as a
visitor, can play a modest role in helping to preserve Corsicas unique natural environment. By sticking to a few simple, unencumbering precepts, your impact will be all the less
heavy.

Buy a sturdy, heavy-duty plastic bag for all your purchases (theyre great for lugging
gear to the beach or tidying away camping equipment, too).

Pack all your litter and dump it in an official container. Wildlife will grub it up in the
hope of dinner if you bury it. While it can be messy, its socially responsible to pack
out the detritus of others who are less responsible.

Dont use detergents or toothpaste, even if they claim to be biodegradeable,

anywhere near streams. The same rule applies to natural functions, it goes without
saying

When out walking, stay on designated trails. Every footstep is a threat to the
coastal foreshore and fragile, high-mountain plants, which use the brief summer to
reproduce.

Obey the no camping restrictions if youre trekking.

Never light a fire in the open air anywhere on the island, except in the rare places
where its allowed. Barbecues and campfire coffee are fun but forest and maquis fires
are the scourge of Corsica.

Be content to simply look at flowers and plants. Many struggle to survive.

As many as 20 fires are reported on a single summers day an alarming trend that
Mediterranean Europes increasingly drier and hotter
climate exacerbates. In the summer of 2003, unrelenting
Fires arethe
temperatures cost Corsica almost 11 million in firebiggest threat to the
fighting expenses, as fire swept across 270 sq km of land
islands sun-sizzled
in the worst conflagrations for 30-odd years. The summer of 2009 again saw fires rage across much of Corsica.
environment
Preventive measures include a summertime islandwide ban (until 30 September) on all campfires, barbecues and other outdoor fires, and prohibiting smoking in forests and the maquis yearround. Lighting up (anything) warrants a 750 fine.

INFRASTRUCTURE & OVERDEVELOPMENT

As all along the northern Mediterranean littoral, there are huge pressures to open up
the coast to urban development. Counterbalancing this, many environmental and
Corsican nationalist forces, conscious of the concrete excesses of the island of Mallorca to the west, and northwards, on the Cte dAzur, oppose all but the most stringently controlled expansion; Vergogna t ch vendi a terra (Shame upon you, who
sell your land) is the title of a popular nationalist rallying song. Both sides in this longstanding debate wish to avoid such blight. The issue is how and to what extent. In the

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Bonifacio region mercifully not yet typical of the rest of Corsica but an indication of
what might be more than half of all residences nowadays are second homes, empty
for the majority of the year.
Metaphorical mountains of garbage are by no means peculiar to Corsica but the
problem is accentuated when tiny coastal communities such as Porto see their population increase more than tenfold during the brief, hectic holiday period, with all the
accompanying demands upon the urban infrastructure.
In places such as Barcaggio and Roccapina, the trampling of visitors has killed o
the fragile plants whose roots serve to anchor the sand dunes.
Most Corsicans are keen to promote the ecological wellbeing of their island and
environmental issues figure large in the demands of many nationalist factions. The
latter arent averse to showing muscle too, if they believe the issue to be important
enough. In 1973, for example, there was what almost amounted to a popular uprising against oshore toxic-waste disposal by an Italian multinational in what was
termed the so-called boues rouges (literally red slicks) aair. Corsican econationalism, as it is called (which, on that occasion, manifested itself as Corsican terrorists
bombing the waste-dumping Italian ships), still persists.
This said, in the opinion of many Corsicans, the nationalist movement (if its indeed
possible to speak in terms of a single movement), has forfeited most of its ecological
credentials as it splintered into factions.

UNESCO-RECOGNISED NATURAL AREAS

The Rserve Naturelle de Scandola, on the islands northwest coast, inscribed on the
Unesco World Heritage list for the richness of its marine and bird life. To its south,
the Golfe de Porto, Golfe de Girolata and the plunging red clis of Les Calanques
that stagger south along the coastline between Porto and Piana are similarly Unesco
recognised. The coastline around Galria, immediately north of the Scandola reserve,
also enjoys international recognition as the Rserve de Biosphre de la Valle du
Fangu, 234 sq km dedicated to scientific research.

PARC NATUREL RGIONAL DE LA CORSE (PNRC)

The single most decisive step in the preservation of Corsicas unique wildlife was the
creation of the Parc Naturel Rgional de la Corse (PNRC) in 1972. Protecting more
than two-thirds (specifically, 3505 sq km) of the island, the reserve is the islands
biggest promoter of environmental consciousness. Unlike national parks in France,
which can only protect uninhabited areas, the PNRC, within whose boundaries more
than 25,000 people live, protects and stimulates the survival of the natural, cultural
and human heritage.
Positive measures include the creation of some 2000km of marked trails, not to
mention costly measures taken to preserve endangered species and to educate and
sensitise locals and visitors through, for example, guided nature walks and information centres.

BACKGROUND

PROTECTION & PRESERVATION

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NATURE RESERVES
Corsica has six Rserves Naturelles that give a measure of protection to particularly
vulnerable natural sites.
RSERVE NATURELLE DE SCANDOLA

Established in 1975 and the first to be created, its also the most stringently protected.
The reserve extends over a 919-hectare pocket of dramatic coastal land, plus 1000 hectares of sea that swims with 125 fish species and 450 types of seaweed. Although you
cant step ashore, its a hugely popular venue for boat trips from west-coast ports.
RSERVE NATURELLE DES BOUCHES DE BONIFACIO

In the far south, more islands are protected by the Rserve Naturelle des Bouches de
Bonifacio, which covers a full 800 sq km of the straits between Corsica and Sardinia.
Here, the marine life is particularly rich and enjoys special protection; a full 120 sq km
of water are strictly o limits to scuba-divers. The reserve is best known for its revived
brown grouper population protected since 1993 after decades of unregulated fishing
had practically wiped them out from the western shores of the Mediterranean.

BACKGROUND

RSERVE NATURELLE DES LES FINOCCHIAROLA

O the northernmost tip of Cap Corse lie these three pin-prick islands (four hectares
in all), o limits to visitors between 1 March and 31 October to allow several rare and
protected birds (such as the Audouins gull, cory shearwater and Scopolis shearwater)
to breed in peace.
RSERVE NATURELLE DE BIGUGLIA

South of Bastia, the Rserve Naturelle de Biguglia provides a safe haven for more than
100 bird species and serves as a vital stopover between Europe and Africa for migrating birds. Up to 20,000 birds winter in the reed-beds around the shallow, 1450-hectare
lagoon that forms Corsicas largest and most important wetland. With luck and bin-

WATCH YOUR STEP

Foraging animals and careless hikers threaten Corsicas 40-odd fragile highland lakes. The
Parc Naturel Rgional de la Corse (PNRC) has a program whereby seasonal workers collect
the rubbish that summer visitors leave behind at the most popular lakes Melu, Ninu and
Creno and at the same time enforce the camping bans. As a further precaution, the GR20
has been diverted from the grassy areas around Lac de Ninu. Walkers should respect the
rules: no fires, no rubbish and no o-piste tramping.
Summer grazing threatens pozzines (from the Corsican pozzi, meaning pits). These
small waterholes are linked together by rivulets that flow over an impermeable substratum (like peat bogs). Lush, green and often squelchy, theyre like little green oases
amid more-desiccated grasses. They feel like a carpet of cool moss and do just feel
them rather than walk over them. Most are fairly inaccessible. If youre walking the
GR20, youll come across them around Lac de Ninu and on the Plateau de Coscione.

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oculars, youll spot warblers of all types, herons, the red-footed falcon, black- and
white-winged terns and maybe an osprey.
RSERVE NATURELLE DES LES CERBICALE

At the lower end of the east coast, the Rserve Naturelle

des les Cerbicale a cluster of five islets northeast
of Porto-Vecchio also protects marine birdlife and
manages to pack 136 distinct species of flora into its 36
hectares.

Up to 20,000 birds
winter in the reed
beds around the
shallowlagoon

RSERVE NATURELLE DES TRE PADULE DE SUARTONE

Newest of the Corsican reserves, it was created to protect these three unique seasonal,
wet-weather ponds and their unique amphibian life in an area traditionally used for
animal grazing. Its around 10km north of Bonifacio, set back from the sea by around
1.75km.

CONSERVATOIRE DU LITTORAL

OFFICE NATIONAL DES FORTS

The Oce National des Forts (ONF; www.onf.fr/corse, in French) manages the islands national forests. Activities include educating the public through forest visits and fire prevention measures such as cutting out more firebreaks and planting more fire-tolerant
ground foliage.

BACKGROUND

On the coast, environment protection is tackled head-on by the Conservatoire du

Littoral (www.conservatoire-du-littoral.fr, in French). This public body engages actively by, for
example, building protective barriers around the Roccapina and Barcaggio dunes to
prevent further erosion by tourists and over-grazing livestock trampling across the
fragile sands, and so crushing the plants that help to stabilise them.
Of much greater significance, the Conservatoire buys up choice and threatened
coastal sites a massive 25% of Corsicas roughly 1000km of coastline in order to
protect them. These include the 5300-hectare Dsert des Agriates (which was being
considered as a potential nuclear-testing site until the Conservatoire intervened back
in 1989); southern Corsicas dune-rich Sartenais coastline (2500 hectares); the Bouches de Bonifacio; and the tip of Cap Corse.

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CORSICAN FLAVOURS
First things first: dont mistake Corsica for, say, Provence, over the water. Sophisticated haute cuisine prepared by superstar chefs? Rare as summer snowballs. If
youre in search of uberchic restaurants, silver cutlery and unflappable service,
youve come to the wrong place. The cucina corsa (Corsican cuisine) is what the
French call a cuisine du terroir country cuisine, literally of the land. Its more
traditional family cooking than creative concoctions, typically hearty and wholesome fare made using tried-and-true recipes and fresh, local produce. And what
produce!

BACKGROUND

HOME GROWN & BORROWED

Many Corsican dishes have evolved historically from the agrarian peasant diet of
the mountains. In the 18th century most Corsicans, under threat from would-be
colonisers, retreated to the safety of the high interior, a terrain that lent itself well to
pig-, sheep- and goat-rearing. The carpet of maquis covering the peaks yielded an
abundance of aromatic herbs wild mint, fennel, catmint, rosemary and laurel
and natural produce such as honey and the versatile chestnut.
Only one thing has changed in the intervening years; despite Corsicas stretchedout coastline, it wasnt until the 20th century, when its
people began reclaiming their shores, that the islands
Many Corsican
wealth of fish and seafood began to find its way to the
dishes have evolved table.
Corsican cuisine owes its distinct characteristics to a
historically from
host
of factors. In particular, its Mediterranean location
the agrarian peasoers a wealth of raw materials: fragrant olive oils, sunant diet of the
loving fruits and vegetables, and mouth-watering cured
mountains
meats, easily and economically preserved in the Mediterranean heat.
Of course, several classic elements of French gastronomy are evident in Corsican
cuisine, notably the cooking methods, such as the stewing of meat en daube, in red
wine and garlic. Some staples from the Italian kitchen have crossed the short passage of water to the island as well. Especially on the east coast, its common to find on
the menu a regional variation of polenta (often using chestnut flour), cannelloni and
lasagne.
Despite the influence of Italian and French cuisine, however, Corsican cuisine
remains relatively untouched by exterior trends, so while you wont see a chip shop
or McDonalds on its streets, youre equally unlikely to come across a juice bar or
sushi restaurant.
The endurance of this wonderful earthy style of cooking that takes full advantage
of the fruits of the land is refreshing.
All we can say is buon appititu!

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STAPLES & SPECIALITIES

The ingredients that make Corsican cuisine so distinctive are above all the regional
charcuterie (cured meats), the chestnut, the local seafood and Brocciu (fresh sheep- or
goat-milk cheese, also spelled Bruccio and Brucciu)

CHARCUTERIE & OTHER MEATS

Carnivores will have found their spiritual home in Corsica. Meat of every species, shape
and genesis dominates the local diet. Corsicans are renowned for their appetite for charcuterie, especially their sausages and hams, whose particular flavour is derived from
cochons coureurs (free-ranging pigs), which traditionally feed on chestnuts, acorns, and
plants imbued with the fragrance of the maquis. From these herb-saturated porcines
comes the figatellu, a thin liver sausage and Corsicas pride (its produced from December
to February), and also the prosciutto-like lonzu and coppa, as well as salciccia and prisuttu.
As you travel, look out too for regional specialities such as:
Fittonu di Bastelica A variant of figatellu thats particularly rich in liver.
Salamu di Quenza A sausage thats cured and dried at high altitude for longer than the norm.
Jambon du Niolo Especially tasty ham from this deep, inland retreat.
Tripes cuisines de Castagniccia Tripe slowly simmered with parsley, mint and cabbage.

stews called civets or daubes in French or tiani (tianu in

the singular) in menu Corse. Sanglier is best eaten during
the hunting seasons of autumn and winter.
Stuatu Slow-braised mutton stew, especially popular in winter.
Ghialadicciu An equivalent, gently simmered stew
of pigs stomach.
Premonata Beef stewed with juniper berries.
Cabri Goat kid, typically roasted with rosemary and
garlic.
Veal with olives A more frequent presence on
menus, though rarely made with veal from calves
raised on the island.

Sanglier // Wild boar, at its best

simmered in a stew

Patrimonio AOC wine // A fine red,

ideally bought from the vineyard

Lonzu // Salted, cured, tender fillet

of pork

Brocciu // Crumbly white cheese,

almost an emblem of Corsica

Pietra beer // Refreshing, chestnutflavoured lager type beer

Assiette de charcuterie corse // A

mixed platter hors duvre

BACKGROUND

The assiette de charcuterie (charcuterie platter) you will see as a starter on many a
menu Corse will consist of a sampling of thin slices of four or five of these meats. If
you want to know which is which, ask your server. Most pork-based charcuterie is
made during winter. Unlike some other meats, which may cure over anything from
six months to a couple of years, figatelli are generally eaten soon after production. If
figatelli feature on the menu in sumDONT MISS...
mer, theyre probably the frozen variety,
which may have less flavour.
FAVOURITE CORSICAN
Main courses, generally speaking, will
FLAVOURS
conform to your idea of French cookery,
but look out for local specialities such as
Fiadone // Lemon-flavoured Corsican
these:
cheesecake
Sanglier (Wild boar) Especially in long-simmering

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Most of these rich meat dishes will be served with pulenta, a Corsican version of the
maize-based Italian polenta, here made from chestnut flour.
Recipes for blackbird and other wild birds, roasted with sage or cooked as a salmis
(partially roasted, then gently simmered in wine, shallots and onions) or prepared in
terrines, also attest to the ingenuity of an isolated people.

BACKGROUND

FISH & SEAFOOD

Is your stomach starting to rebel at so much artery-clogging cured meat? Its time
to give your taste buds something dierent. The warm waters of the Mediterranean
provide an ample and varied net of produce: sea bream, sea bass, squid, sardines,
scorpion fish, lobster and red mullet. Oysters and mussels are a speciality around
the east coast. Langoustes (lobster) appear on menus all around the coast, usually
served with pasta, simply cooked in a little olive oil and
garlic, or in ziminu (or aziminu), the Corsican version of Provenal bouillabaisse (normally served for a
Brocciu, a cheese
minimum of two people). Sardines stued with Brocciu
so noble, so highly
are generally delicious, while inland youll come across
regarded that it
plenty of farmed trout, stued with either almonds
merits its own
or a selection of herbs from the maquis. Rougets la
AOC
bonifacienne is a southern speciality featuring red mullet cooked with anchovies, tomatoes and garlic. Once
you (or even better, your chef) manage to penetrate the
spiky shell of the oursin (sea urchin), it reveals its delicate, star-shaped flesh.

SAY CHEESE!
Ah Brocciu, a cheese so noble, so highly regarded that it merits its own AOC (Appellation
dOrigine Contrle)! It pops up on practically every single menu, in a variety of guises.

CORSICAN CHARCUTERIE?
Prisuttu, lonzu, coppa, figatellu, salsicciaCorsican charcuterie has achieved cult status
among connoisseurs. But standards do vary a lot. Some unscrupulous producers in Corsica
import (legally) pigs from the Netherlands, Sardinia, Brittany or Spain, let them feed only a
week or two on chestnuts, slaughter them, transform the meat into charcuterie, label it charcuterie corse traditionnelle (traditional Corsican charcuterie) and sell it to gullible visitors.
One oddity is saucisson dne, a rich sausage made from donkey meat that youll
find in many a delicatessen. Yet the flesh of the donkey, before mechanisation a respected beast of burden, has never been consumed in Corsica. What to do, msieur?,
one traiteur asked us rhetorically. The clients expect it, I provide it. In reality, Corsica
has never minced its donkeys and whats on sale comes from either Italy or Provence,
on the mainland.
As long as theres no official certification label (theres talk about establishing an
Appellation dOrigine Contrle (AOC) for charcuterie, similar to the one used for
Corsican wines, honey, olive oil and Brocciu cheese), your best bet is to stock up in
reputable produce shops.

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Another famous or rather infamous Corsican dairy product is casgiu merzu (literally and descriptively rotten cheese). Starting life as a fresh young goats cheese, its
left and left (for up to 10 years in extreme cases) until it crawls with little white maggots. Its variously described as crumbly with a sharp tang and having the texture of
peanut butter (we cant speak with authority; there are limits to how far well go in the
cause of research!).
Restaurants where youll never find casgiu merzu
often serve hard cheeses as a starter or as an alternative
Amazingly for such
to dessert (youll also find them on oer as a bar snack).
a relatively small
They come accompanied by a basket of crusty bread,
island, six distinct
plus a dollop of sweet fig jam, which acts as a delicious
varieties of olive
relish, counteracting the sharp flavour of the cheese. If
flourish
they feature on your menu, do try buglidicci (pancakes
with ewes-milk cheese).

OLIVE OIL
Corsican olive oil (oliu di Corsica), a staple of the Corsican kitchen, is extremely
aromatic. An AOC was introduced in 2004. It controls quality and at the same time
recognises and gives further impetus to Corsican farmers endeavours to revive longabandoned olive groves. Amazingly for such a relatively small island, six distinct varieties of olive flourish. The principal olive oilproducing regions are the Balagne, the
Alta Rocca and the Casinca, and production takes place from February to June.

BACKGROUND

Mild, crumbly and white, not a million miles from ricotta, its made from the petitlait (whey) of either goats or ewes milk. True Brocciu (as opposed to the inferiortasting brousse, which is made from imported or powdered milk), is available only
between December and June, when the lactating goats and sheep provide their characteristic milk. Corsicans take this distinction seriously; a restaurant caught passing o
brousse as Brocciu can be closed down.
Brocciu can be eaten fresh, as a creamy fromage frais, baked with the zest of oranges
or cdrat (a sweeter type of lemon) in a fiadone cheesecake, or drained, salted and aged
for use in savoury dishes. Be sure to try an omelette of Brocciu. The cheese combines
particularly harmoniously with mint, with which it will almost always be paired in an
omelette. You can also enjoy Brocciu in pasta dishes, such as cannelloni and lasagne,
or stued into vegetables.
Brocciu may be the diva of Corsican cheeses but there are plenty of others to excite
your palate. Brebis and chvre are the generic names given to a range of ewes and
goats milk cheeses (the latter produced from January to August). Some, despite Brussels legislation, are still made with unpasteurised milk and taste all the better for it.
Favourites that youre likely to find include:
Bastelicaccia A soft, creamy ewes-milk cheese with a natural crust.
Sartinesi A raw, hard-pressed, sharper-tasting ewes-milk cheese.
Tomme Corse A semi-hard, granular, raw, ewes-milk cheese.
Niolincu A popular soft cheese from the south.
Vnacu Also soft and hailing from the Alta-Rocca .

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CHESTNUTS
Since the 16th century, Corsicans have planted chtaigniers (chestnut trees), known as
larbre pain (the bread tree) because it was a staple of so many Corsicans diet.
Nothing was wasted. The wood was fashioned into furniture and whittled into
stakes for fencing. The leaves and branches were fed to the goats and what remained
would be used for winter heating.
Tasty dishes made with chestnuts include beignets au Brocciu la farine de chtaigne
(Brocciu cheese frittered in chestnut flour), gteau la farine de chtaigne (chestnut
cake), castagnacciu (a moister chestnut cake) and falculelli (pressed, frittered Brocciu
served on a chestnut leaf). And lets not forget Pietra, Corsicas wonderfully rich amber ale flavoured with chestnuts, or the delightful ham from free-range pigs raised on
chestnuts with its distinctive flavour.

BACKGROUND

HONEY
Beekeeping on the island is a long-established tradition, evolved over centuries. You
may raise your eyebrows at the dubious cause-and-eect argument of the 17th-century French philosopher Jacques Bossuet, who claimed, Because of the high quality
of the honey that they consume, Corsicans are taller than the common man. Whats
incontrovertible is that Corsican honey (mele di Corsica), also meriting an AOC label,
is very special. Its produced from bees that feed exclusively on the wildflowers of
the maquis (plant your hives near cultivated land and youll lose your AOC status).
There are six recognised varieties of honey, diering according to terrain and time of
year and elaborately described in terminology appropriate to a wine-tasting (Amber,
lingering on the palate with a residual bitterness is how a spoonful of chestnut honey
is sensuously evoked). As the weeks pass and summer advances, beekeepers transport
their hives ever higher, following the flower line.

INTERVIEW: PAUL-ANTOINE LANFRANCHI

Paul-Antoine Lanfranchi owns a gte dtape and a well-regarded restaurant in the Haut
Taravo Valley (see p110), which is famous for its home-cured meats. We are the fourth
generation of butchers, and our cured meats are 100% organic and natural. I use secret,
family recipes passed on by my grandmother. We rear our own Corsican pigs and let
them roam, free-range. They feed only on chestnuts and acorns, which gives the meat
a distinct flavour. Does homemade charcuterie taste really dierent from industrial
charcuterie, Monsieur Lanfranchi? The texture and the flavours are totally dierent. Try
the two kinds of charcuterie, and youll see what I mean. But charcuterie artisanale has
a cost: youll be looking at 30 for a kilogram of coppa. For charcuterie lovers, whats
the best way to buy genuine, and the best? Go in the mountain villages, and buy charcuterie direct from the producer. And follow the seasons: an authentic figatellu is never
made in summer. If you find figatellu at a market or in a restaurant in summer, just skip
it! For an idea of Paul-Antoines products, check out his website www.chez-paul-anto
ine.com (in French).

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SNACKS
The sandwich Corse seen on many cafe menus is a panino (grilled sandwich, Italian
style) filled with charcuterie and cheeses. Varieties include the Libecciu, the Stellu (according to the menu, the most Corsican of panini), the Velacu and the Astu. Equally
handy if youre on the hoof is the bastelle, a little rectangular wallet of pastry or dough,
filled with onion, Brocciu cheese, or pumpkin.
Traditional Corsican soups, typically served in winter, are a meal in themselves.
Strict vegetarians beware. Whats billed as a vegetable soup, made with butter beans
and garden vegetables, will often be simmered in meat stock, or even contain lardons,
small hunks of pork or sausage. Check before you order.

DESSERTS
For dessert, try the wonderful fiadone (a light flan made with Brocciu, lemon and
eggs), the calorie-loaded beignets au Brocciu (Brocciu fritters), the toothsome ambrucciata (tart with Brocciu) or the high-energy canistrelli (biscuits made with almonds,
walnuts, lemon or aniseed). Corsican homemade jams (made with clementines, figs,
chestnuts and so on) are also delicious.
Especially inland, youll see a variety of cakes, tarts, biscuits and beignets, made from
the subtle-tasting chestnut flour.

ALCOHOLIC DRINKS
BEER

Two breweries on the island produce four dierent beers. Pietra is an amber beer
whose ingredients include chestnut flour from the Castagniccia. Enthusiasts contend that even though the beer doesnt taste of chestnuts, its presence is nevertheless
largely responsible for the beers unique characteristics. Serena is a lighter product of
the same brewery; the label bears a Corsican Moors head. The pale Colomba beer,
launched in 1999, is flavoured with maquis herbs, principally myrtle. In 2002 Torra,
called bire du maquis (maquis beer), was launched by another brewery based near
Ajaccio. The pale Torra is flavoured with arbutus while the amber Torra is flavoured
with myrtle.
WINE

We have to thank the ancient Greeks for introducing the vine to Corsica in pre-Christian times. Nowadays the third-largest wine-producing island in the Mediterranean
after Sicily and Sardinia, Corsica has nine AOC-labelled wines. These are produced
mainly from the original rootstocks of the country, using varieties of grape such as
Vermentinu (white), Sciaccarellu (favoured in granite areas) and Niellucciu (related to
the Italian Sangiovese, unique to Corsica and the most popular variety).
Around 7000 hectares of vine are under cultivation on the island, notably in the
Nebbio and on the eastern coast, and most vineyards can be visited. Corsican wines
(red, white and ros) can be bought in produce shops for as little as 5 a bottle and

BACKGROUND

DRINKS

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CORSICAN WINES HEAVEN IN A GLASS

Appellation dOrigine Contrle (AOC) wines have met stringent regulations governing
where, how and under what conditions they are grown, fermented and bottled. Red wines
account roughly for 40% of the total production of AOC wines in Corsica; white wines 11%;
and ross 49%.
AOC Ajaccio (Golfe de Porto to Golfe dAjaccio) Most famous domaines: Comte Peraldi, Clos Ornasca, Domaine

Abbatucci, Clos Capitoro

BACKGROUND

AOC Coteaux du Cap Corse & AOC Muscat du Cap Corse (Cap Corse) Most famous domaines:

Clos Nicrosi, Domaine Pieretti, Domaine Gioielli, Domaine de Pietri

AOC Sartne (Valle de lOrtolo, Propriano area, Tizzano area) Most famous domaines: Domaine Fiumiccicoli,
Domaine Saparale, Domaine Sant Armettu, Domaine Mosconi
AOC Calvi (Area: the Balagne interior) Most famous domaines: Clos Landry, Domaine Alzipratu, Domaine
Renucci
AOC Figari (Area: around Figari and Pianottoli-Caldarello) Most famous domaines: Clos Canarelli, Domaine de
la Murta
AOC Porto-Vecchio (Area: around Porto-Vecchio) Most famous domaines: Domaine de Torraccia, Domaine
de Granajolo
AOC Patrimonio (Area: around Patrimonio and St-Florent) Most famous domaines: Domaine Gentile, Domaine
Orenga de Gaory, Clos de Bernardi, Domaine Leccia, Domaine Lazzarini
AOC Vin de Corse (Area: eastern plain, from Bastia to Solenzara) Most famous domaines: Domaine de Musoleu, Clos dOrla, Clos Fornelli, Clos Poggiale

the mark-up in restaurants is not scandalous. These are not necessarily the most distinguished of wines but theyre increasing in quality and some of them have gained
national recognition.
In both value and volume, wine is Corsicas principal export. Its a drop in the Med
compared with overall French output but still brings in some 120 million annually.
Around 45% of any years production is consumed on the island and drunk while
still young. The remainder makes its way to France and other European countries in
roughly equal proportions. This said, youll need to know a specialist vintner if youre
to experience a Proustian recollection of your holiday anywhere outside la mtropole.
Wine production takes place between September and October.
BRANDIES & LIQUEURS

Cap Corse Mattei, invented by Louis Napolon Mattei in 1872, is a local wine-based aperitif, comparable to red martini and made from muscat wine. Casanis is a pastis. Although
not strictly from Corsica (its from Marseille), it was developed by a Corsican with the good island name of CasabiAcquavita is
anca, and the label has the Moors head symbol on it. You
generally homewont be shot for asking for a Ricard or Pernod, but ask for
a Casa anyway and pronounce it ca-zah. Other excellent
made and, at 45%
aperitifs include liqueurs, usually flavoured with myrtle
alcohol by volume,
(liqueur de myrte) or chestnut (liqueur de chtaigne), and
is like rocket fuel
sweet muscat du Cap Corse.

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Eau-de-vie (acquavita in Corsican), originally a medicinal tipple, is best enjoyed as

a digestif after dinner. Its particularly good when based on a citrus fruit the Corsicans
call cdrat (for all practical purposes, a lemon) or on myrtle or other maquis plants.
Acquavita is generally homemade and, at 45% alcohol by volume, is like rocket fuel. If
at the end of dinner your server puts down a little plate with a couple of sugar cubes
on it and an unlabelled bottle, pour a few drops from the bottle over the sugar cubes
and suck them. This is a very old custom and a very good one.
Whisky lovers might want to try P&M, which is the only Corsican whisky, blended
and distilled in Corsica.

NONALCOHOLIC DRINKS
WATER

Although tap water is drinkable throughout the island, most locals prefer bottled mineral water. Corsican mineral waters are excellent.
Orezza High-quality sparkling water from the Castagniccia (see p160). Very carbonated and rich in iron, its even
served in the chicest restaurants of Paris. Check out the website www.orezza.fr.
St-Georges Well-known still water from Col St-Georges, near Ajaccio. The bottles were designed by famous French
designer Philippe Starck but theyre plastic bottles for all that and pollute just as much. You can see them on www.
eauxstgeorges.fr and maybe wonder if he earned his fee.
Zilia Spring water from the Balagne.

Theres a Corsican variation of Coca-Cola, called Corsica Cola, with a Corsican

Moors head on the label. Lets face it: its too sweet and, the name apart, bears not too
much resemblance to Coke.

BACKGROUND

SODAS

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FOOD GLOSSARY
THE BASICS
boulangerie boolonzhree bakery
climatisation kleemateezasyon air-conditioning
djeuner dayzhernay lunch
dner deenay dinner
(non-)fumeur (non)fewmer (non)smoking
laddition ladeesyon the bill
menu mernew set menu
petit djeuner pertee dayzhernay breakfast
picerie aypeesree grocery store

BACKGROUND

STAPLES
bire byair beer
caf kafay coee
eau o water
lait lay milk
sel sel salt
th tay tea
riz ree rice

MEAT, CHICKEN & POULTRY

agneau anyo lamb
bifteck/steak beeftek/stek steak
buf berf beef
buf hach berf hashay minced beef
cervelle servel brains
charcuterie sharkewtree cured or prepared meats
(usually pork)
chvre shevrer goat (can also refer to goats cheese)
civet seevay game stew
coppa kopa spare rib (pork)
cte kot chop (of pork, lamb or mutton)
ctelette kotlet cutlet
dinde dund turkey
figatellu feegateloo liver sausage
foie fwa liver
ghialadicciu gyaladeechoo braised pigs stomach
grillade greeyad mixed grill
jambon zhombon ham

lapin lapun rabbit

lard lar bacon
lonzu londzoo pork fillet
marcassin markasun young wild boar
mouton mooton mutton
oie wa goose
pieds de porc pyay der por pigs trotters
porc por pork
poulet poolay chicken
prizuttu preetsootoo cured ham
rognons ronyon kidneys
sanglier songgleeyay wild boar
saucisson soseeson large sausage
saucisson fum soseeson foomay smoked sausage
tripes treep tripe
viande vyond meat
volaille volai poultry

FISH & SEAFOOD

bouillabaisse booyabes Mediterranean-style fish
soup, made with several kinds of fish
calmar kalmar squid
crabe krab crab
chaudre shodray fish stew
coquille St-Jacques kokeey sanzhak scallop
crevette grise krervet grees shrimp
crevette rose krervet ros prawn
fruits de mer frwee der mair seafood
gambas gomba king prawns
hutres weetrer oysters
langouste langgoost lobster
moules mool mussels
palourde paloord clam
poisson pwason fish
sardine sardeen sardine
saumon somon salmon
soupe de poisson soop der pwason fish soup
thon ton tuna
truite trweet trout

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239

VEGETABLES, HERBS &

SPICES

DESSERTS & SWEETS

beignet benye doughnut
canistrelli kaneestrelee dry biscuits
figatone feegatonay chestnut flan
flan flon egg-custard dessert
gateau gato cake

BACKGROUND

ail ai garlic
anis anees aniseed
artichaut arteesho artichoke
asperge aspairzh asparagus
aubergine obairzheen aubergine/eggplant
avocat avoka avocado
betterave betrav beetroot
carotte karot carrot
champignon shompeenyon mushroom
courgette koorzhet courgette/zucchini
concombre konkombrer cucumber
crudits krewdeetay chopped raw vegetables
pice aypees spice
haricots areeko beans
haricots blancs areeko blong white beans
haricots verts areeko vair French (string) beans
herbe airb herb
legumes laygewm vegetables
mas maees sweetcorn
poivron pwavron green pepper
poireau pwaro leek
laitue laytew lettuce
lentilles lonteeyer lentils
oignon onyon onion
olive oleev olive
petits pois pertee pwa peas
persil payrsee parsley
pomme de terre pom der tair potato
salade salad salad or lettuce
tomate tomat tomato

ACCOMMODATION

FINDING ACCOMMODATION
From great-value gtes dtape (walkers
lodges) and gtes ruraux (self-catering
cottages in the country) to atmospheric
B&Bs and stylish hotels, theres a wide
array of accommodation options in
Corsica.
The smarter hotels tend to be concentrated around the coast and in a few
hinterland towns; the Ajaccio, Calvi,
Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio areas have
the widest choice. There are also a great
deal of small-scale, often family-run, establishments not really the period hotel
you were dreaming of, but they blend in
pretty well with the environment, and
are comfortable and intimate.
Chambres dhtes, the French equivalent of B&Bs, oer a pleasant alternative
to hotels. They can be found all over
Corsica, but are normally tucked away
in the hills or in scenic locations; options
include everything from restored village
houses, modern buildings or country
villas to rooms in family houses. On the
whole, standards are high and rooms are

generally excellent value. Many chambres

dhtes also oer table dhtes (evening
meals served around shared tables), but
these must be reserved in advance.
Maisons dhtes (boutique-style B&Bs)
are the latest trend. At the time of writing there were about two dozen in Corsica, but new places should have opened
by the time you read this. They are normally found in the hinterland and boast
wonderful locations.
Although gtes dtape are primarily set
up for walkers, they are better equipped
and much more comfortable than refuges; some have impeccable facilities that
would put many a hotel to shame. They

BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE

For more accommodation reviews and
recommendations by Lonely Planet
authors, check out the online booking
service at www.lonelyplanet.com/hotels.
Youll find the true, insider low-down
on the best places to stay. Reviews are
thorough and independent. Best of all,
you can book online.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

PRICE GUIDE
The following is a guide to the pricing system used in this chapter. Unless
otherwise stated, prices quoted are for a
double room with private bathroom.

up to 60

60 to 140

over 140

also welcome nonwalkers, space permitting, and usually oer doubles (with
shared bathrooms). Most gtes dtape are
dotted around the islands hinterland,
and are accessible by car. They boast
wonderful settings think secluded
hamlets and breathtaking views.
Gtes ruraux are private houses and
lodges that can be rented (normally by
the week) for self-catering holidays. They
are scattered all over the island, but are
usually in the hinterland.
Rsidences de tourisme (condominium-style accommodation) are dotted all
around the coast. Most are bungalowtype self-catering options, which you can
rent on a weekly basis. They are often
located near the beach.

The peak season is July and August,

when Corsica is chock-a-block with visitors. Coastal accommodation rates hurtle
through the ceiling during these two
months, and can be up to triple the prices charged in the low season. Note that
half board is mandatory in many hotels
in Corsica at this time. Its imperative
to make reservations well in advance if
youre planning to visit the island in July
and August, as most reasonably priced
accommodation gets snapped up fast.
For the rest of the year, taris can be
very reasonable. Youll find excellent

241

deals, and fewer people, in the shoulder

months: April, May, June, September
and October. Many resort hotels function only between April and October,
but some B&Bs are open year-round,
as are certain hotels in the main cities.
Seasonal opening and closing dates tend
to vary so, if youre planning an early or
late break, do check in advance.

BASTIA & THE FAR

NORTH
BASTIA
HTEL LES VOYAGEURS //
BASTIA
%04 95 34 90 80; www.hotel-lesvoyageurs.com; 9 av
Marchal Sbastiani; s 60-95, d 75-105; paiW

Run by the same family for over a century, yet thoroughly modern and comprehensively renovated, Htel Les Voyageurs is justifiably popular with tourists
and business visitors alike. The attractive
lounge and reception area streams with
light, and the 24 rooms have soothing
pale-yellow walls, glass-and-wroughtiron furniture and sparkling bathrooms.
The best of the doubles are cavernous, and come with a cosy sofa and a
bath-tub.

CAP CORSE
MAISON ST HYACINTHE //
SANTA MARIA DI LOTA
%04 95 33 28 29; www.maison-saint-hyacinthe.com;
Santa Maria di Lota; s with shared bathroom 25-30,
d 40-50; p

You dont need to be religious to enjoy

a stay at this peaceful convent, which
lies deep in the hills behind Bastia. Run
by Polish nuns, it oers 45 basic but impeccably maintained single and double
rooms (13 doubles have their own bathroom) in a modern, motel-like building

ACCOMMODATION

PRICES & BOOKING

B A S T I A & T H E FA R N O R T H

242

B A S T I A & T H E FA R N O R T H

set in spacious gardens. Theres even a

terrace bar overlooking the valley. Its
well signed from the D80; at Miomo,
take the D31 westward for 2.5km.
HTEL DEMEURE CASTEL
BRANDO // ERBALUNGA
%04 95 30 10 30; www.castelbrando.com; rte
Principale, Erablunga; d 105-210; hmid-MarSep;
paiWs

This stylish and welcoming boutique hotel is set in a mid-19th-century mansion

surrounded by palm-shaded gardens and
three modern annexes that house even
more luxurious accommodation. Its 45
rooms are tastefully decorated in cream
and peach, and are furnished with elegant
antiques. There are also two swimming
pools, a jacuzzi and a private library.
U SANTAGNELLU // ROGLIANO
%04 95 35 40 59; www.hotel-usantagnellu.com;

ACCOMMODATION

d incl breakfast 90-150, incl half board 120-170;

hApr-Sep

Youll sleep cosseted and comfortable

in this beautifully restored pink villa,
located opposite the church in the centre
of the village. Choose one of the seven
rooms that face the sea, retire early and
set your alarm to enjoy the sunrise as
it streaks across the bay. Your cheerful
hosts, the Albertinis, have a particular
anity with the place hardly surprising, since they were married in room 8
when the hotel still functioned as public
oces. The hotel is 4km from Macinag-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

gio; take the D80 westward and turn left

onto the D53, signed Rogliano.
CHAMBRES DHTES CASA
MARIA // NONZA
%04 95 37 80 95; www.casamaria-corse.com; d incl
breakfast70-90, f incl breakfast 120-160; aiW

This tastefully restored, warmly recommended 18th-century mansion sits

beside the lane that leads up to Nonzas
tower. Four of its five rooms have sea
views, and three sit harmoniously beneath the sloping roof; the family suite
consists of two adjoining rooms that
share a bathroom. Breakfast is served in
a large vine-shaded garden, into which
banks of purple bougainvillea cascade.
CHAMBRES DHTES LE RELAIS
DU CAP // NONZA
%04 95 37 86 52; www.relaisducap.com; Marine de
Negru; d with shared bathroom 50-75, apt per week
400-820; hApr-Oct; i

Tucked improbably between a towering

cli and a shingle beach, this family-run
B&B oers four country-style doubles
with shared bathroom and staggering
sunset-facing sea views. The terrace has
a spectacular vista, plus a barbecue, selfcatering facilities, and tables where you
can enjoy the copious buet breakfast
(7). Theres also one self-contained
apartment that can accommodate up to
four people. This place is 4km south of
Nonza; a track leads o the D80 down to
the shoreline.

LE NEBBIO

RESOURCES
Check out the websites listed here for
help booking rental accommodation.
Aller en Corse (www.allerencorse.com)
Gtes de France Corse (www.gites-corsica

.com)

MAISON LE RORQUAL //
ST-FLORENT
%04 95 37 05 37; www.maison-rorqual.com; rte
Plage de la Roya; d 230-450; pais

Hidden from view among wooded private gardens at the far end of the Plage
de Roya, this luxury villa boast five fan-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TOP FIVE
ATMOSPHERIC B&BS
Find heaven in one of these lovely B&Bs:

Chambres dHtes La Diligence

(p254) A former coach inn in La
Castagniccia

Chambres dHtes Bergeries de

Piscia (p250) Converted bergeries
(shepherds huts) in Piscia

Maison dHtes Chtelet de Campo

(p248) A renovated granite mansion
in the Haut Taravu

Maison dHtes Casa Giafferri

(p257) Artists vibes in the central
mountains

Chambres dHtes U Castellu Piattu

(below) Views of Patrimonios
vineyards and limestone peaks

tastic rooms, each individually designed,

and decorated with flair and originality
using driftwood, slabs of rock, river pebbles, stained glass, mosaics and designer
fabrics. From the infinity pool in the
garden theres a stunning view over the
gulf.

Located deep in the heart of the Patrimonio wine-growing region (the name
means Hidden Castle), this idyllic
B&B is a superb example of how modern architecture can blend perfectly
with a rural setting. Built from local
stone and fitted with chestnut-wood
furniture, the five rooms are set around
a gorgeous pool with views of craggy
limestone hills and serried rows of
vines. Its 2km south of Patrimonio on

243

the back road to Brietta its best to

follow the directions on the website.
LA DIMORA // OLETTA
%04 95 35 22 51; www.ladimora.fr; rte de StFlorent; d 145-330; pais

Only a few minutes drive from the bustle of St-Florent, this gorgeous boutique
hotel has been created from the ruins of
an 18th-century farmhouse. From the
vaulted chambers of the lobby to the thick
stone walls of the bedrooms, original features have been skilfully blended think
chunky retro furniture, old timber and
thick rugs on stone floors, all in cool and
sober shades of biscuit, taupe and burnt
umber. The garden complete with ancient olive tree, pool, Turkish bath and
massage room is a delight.
CHAMBRES DHTES
GAUCHER // VALLECALLE
%04 95 37 60 60; http://hotescorses.free.fr; s incl
breakfast 50-55, d incl breakfast 60-65; p

This delightful rambling 18th-century

mansion has been comprehensively and
tastefully renovated by the Gaucher family. There are only three bedrooms, each
vast and minimally furnished, with crisp
sheets and cream bedspreads. Outside,
you can enjoy the lovely garden and
terrace with striking views. If youd like
dinner (a bargain 20, including wine
and coee), order in advance. Monsieur
Gaucher speaks excellent English.

CALVI & LA BALAGNE

CALVI
HTEL BELVDRE

Map p65; %04 95 65 01 25; www.resa-hotels-calvi

.com; place Christophe Colomb; d 47-100; aW

In the shadow of the citadel and overlooking place Christophe Colomb, the
Belvdre has 24 smallish but comfortable

ACCOMMODATION

CHAMBRES DHTES U
CASTELLU PIATTU // BRIETTA
%04 95 37 28 64; www.castellu-piattu.fr.st; d incl
breakfast 70-92; ps

C A LV I & L A B A L A G N E

244

C A LV I & L A B A L A G N E

rooms, some with magnificent views of

the bay, plus a pleasant panoramic breakfast room. Its a particular bargain out of
season. Credit cards arent accepted.
HTEL LE ROCHER

Map p65; %04 95 65 20 04; www.hotel-le-rocher

.com, in French; bd Wilson; r 90-185; hmid-AprmidOct; a

The 20 spacious rooms of this central

hotel all have fresh furniture, attractive
fabrics, marble bathrooms, flat-screen
TV and balconies. Its three mezzanine
rooms (134 to 185) have views of the
Golfe de Calvi and can accommodate up
to four people.
HTEL LA VILLA

ACCOMMODATION

o Map p65; %04 95 65 10 10; www.hotel-lavilla

.com; chemin de Notre Dame de la Serra; 2-person villas
310-720; pais

Tucked away in the hills overlooking

Calvi and set in gorgeous gardens with
stunning views of the bay (not least over
the brim of its fabulous infinity pool),
La Villa brims with boutique trappings.
Clean lines, cappuccino-and-chocolate
colour schemes, designer fabrics and
minimalist motifs distinguish the rooms,
while other facilities include a two-star
Michelin restaurant, a fitness centre,
spas, tennis courts and access to a private
beach down on the coast. Why, theres
even a helipad, should you prefer to leave
the car at home.
HTEL RESTAURANT LE
MAGNOLIA
Map p65; %04 95 65 19 16; www.hotel-le-magnolia
.com; rue Alsace Lorraine; d 60-140; hApr-Nov;

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

are each named after a French literary

figure and are individually decorated in a
tasteful manner you can sleep, for example, with Madame Bovary, bedecked
in cherry tones. The hotel overlooks a
delightful garden restaurant (p68) with
the eponymous magnolia tree at its heart.

AROUND CALVI
HTEL-RESTAURANT STELLA
MARE // ALGAJOLA
%04 95 60 71 18; www.stellamarehotel.com, in French;
chemin Santa Lucia; r 65-120; hmid-Aprmid-Oct;
paW

Each of the Stella Mares 16 trim and

tidy rooms has a splendid panorama of
either the mountains or the coast. Ask
for No 10, which has views of both, and
a balcony too. There are great sea views
from the terrace, where a buet breakfast (10) and evening sundowners are
served. The friendly sta can advise on
local activities and walking trails.

LE ROUSSE
HTEL CALA DI LORU

o Map p73; %04 95 60 14 75; www.hotel-caladiloru

.com; bd Pierre Pasquini; r 64-133; hApr-Oct;
pas

Heres a friendly, family-run hotel with

loads of character. The very creditable
paintings and photos in public areas are
by the owners sons, and even Mum has
a canvas or two on display. A large terrace and most of the 26 rooms overlook
a tranquil garden that features plants and
shrubs of the island. The pools much
more than a puddle in a corner.

pa

HTEL ISULA ROSSA

Occupying a 19th-century belle poque

mansion, Le Magnolia is an oasis at
the heart of Calvis old quarter. The 11
rooms, substantially renovated in 2008,

Map p73; %04 95 60 01 32; www.isularossa.com; rte

du Port; d 45-115; hmid-Aprmid-Oct; W

Lucien and his wife, aided or encumbered by their charming toddler Avelina,

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

run a particularly welcoming spick

and span operation within a well-cast
anchor of the ferry jetty. The 21 rooms,
half with sea views, are freshly decorated in attractive pastel shades, and are
equipped with flat-screen TV and particularly large bathroom mirrors. Except
in high summer, the rooms represent
exceptional value.
HTEL-RESTAURANT LE
GRILLON
Map p73; %04 95 60 00 49, www.hotel-grillon.net, in
French; 10 av Paul Doumer; d 38-60, incl breakfast &
dinner 77-100; hMar-Oct; paW

With simple, well-maintained rooms

(bathrooms have been recently renovated)
and a popular ground-floor restaurant
(menus 13.50 to 16.50) serving lunch
and dinner daily, this friendly place oers
real value. The hotel is at the rear, and its
informal reception is in the public bar.

LA BALAGNE INTERIOR

At the roads end, this former forestrycommission house oers simple accommodation. Overlooking the river Tartagine, with its tempting rock pools and
shaded riverside walks, the lodge makes a
great base for hikes both simple and demanding (the warden can advise you).
CHAMBRES DHTES A FLATTA //
AROUND CALENZANA
%04 95 62 80 38; www.aflatta.com; d 85-115,
ste 125-205, r per person incl half board 50;
hApr-Oct;paWs

Heres the ultimate getaway, located

a gorgeous 3km solitary drive beyond

245

Calenzana, from where its signed. At

the head of a tight valley, it snuggles beneath sheer, jagged peaks, while in front
the valley widens towards the open sea.
Though on the smallish side, the five
rooms are a delight, with beamed ceilings
and tiled bathrooms with kidney-shaped
baths. For even greater comfort, opt for
the suite, which has a huge four-poster
bed, a bathroom with double washbasins
and a separate toilet. Theres a cosy bar
bedecked with cycling photos notably
of Jacques Anquetil, legendary French
racing cyclist and father of A Flattas
owner and an excellent restaurant. Dine
on the terrace for unparalleled views
down the valley.
CASA MUSICALE // PIGNA
%04 95 61 77 31; www.casa-musicale.org, in French;
r 59-100

This warmly recommended place has

oodles of character and a charming restaurant (p79). Its seven rooms (ask for La
Solana, which has a particularly large balcony) have wall frescos and magnificent
views. The hotel promotes regular music
concerts and recitals; at these times, and
indeed throughout the summer season,
reservations are all but essential.
HTEL U PALAZZU // PIGNA
%04 95 47 32 78; www.hotel-corse-palazzu.com;
d 130-150, ste 220-270; hApr-Oct

A palace indeed! Returning to Pigna

after three decades on the French mainland, Dominique Franceschini and his
wife Vivianne have refurbished and redecorated this magnificent 18th-century
mansion. Its three superplush doubles
and two regal suites are all decorated
with rich fabrics, antique furniture,
original carpentry and appealing period
features; the suites each have a private
terrace as well.

ACCOMMODATION

GTE DTAPE MAISON

FORESTIRE DE TARTAGINE //
FORT DE TARTAGINE MELAJA
%04 95 35 68 73; mairie-olmi-cappella@wanadoo
.fr; D963; s/d 25/40, r per person incl half board 40;
hmid-Aprmid-Oct; p

C A LV I & L A B A L A G N E

246

T H E W E S T C OA S T

HTEL-RESTAURANT
LE NIOBEL // BELGODRE
%04 95 61 34 00; www.hotel-niobel-corse.com, in
French; d 60-75; hEastermid-Sep; p

Run by a cheerful young couple with

roots in La Balagne, Le Niobel, located
200m from the village square, was originally the boarding house for Belgodres
school. Part of the Logis de France
small-hotel network, the hotel has 11
well-maintained rooms, three with
balconies overlooking the valley. At the
tempting restaurant (menu 20), open
to all for lunch and dinner from Easter
through to mid-September, you can
dine inside or, for a splendid panorama,
on the terrace.

ACCOMMODATION

CHAMBRES DHTES U CHYOSU

DI A PETRA // OLMI-CAPPELLA
%04 95 61 91 01; www.locations-corses.com, in
French; s/d incl breakfast 50/70; s

At first sight, youd swear that this delightful chambres dhte, signed on the
main road above the village, had been
there for centuries. In fact, the owner
created it himself, hauling up over 50
tonnes of stone and scouring the region
for old doors, window frames, beams
anything abandoned yet recyclable. Each
of its four rooms has a distinct character,
the welcome couldnt be warmer (youll
enjoy a free aperitif on arrival and a copious buet breakfast with 12 varieties
of homemade jam), and theres a lovely
shared living room. The open-air guest
self-catering area has both a fridge and a
cooking range.
HTEL A SPELUNCA //
SPELONCATO
%04 95 61 50 38; www.hotel-a-spelunca.com, in
French; d 60-80; hApr-Oct; p

This handsome building beside the village church was constructed in 1850

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

by Cardinal Savelli, director-general

of police in Rome and a native son of
Speloncato. Reception is friendly, and
the hotels 18 comfortable rooms, built
around a central staircase, are furnished
with pieces of the era. Those beneath the
eaves have been recently renovated and
oer the best views.
HTEL MARE E MONTI //
FELICETO
%04 95 63 02 00; www.hotel-maremonti.com; d 84132; hApr-Oct; pas

This trim hotel was originally constructed by a Corsican family who made
good in South America and returned
home with their riches. A noble stone
staircase sweeps upward to its 16 trim
rooms, each paved with terracotta tiles;
most have great mountain views. Theres
a mosaic-lined swimming pool, a pretty
rear garden and an agreeable restaurant,
Sol e Luna, which serves lunch and dinner daily and is furnished in antique
style.

THE WEST COAST

GOLFE DE PORTO
HTEL COLOMBO // PORTO

Map p88; %04 95 26 10 14; www.hotel-colombo

-porto.com, in French; rte de Calvi; d incl breakfast 55110; hmid-Aprmid-Oct; a

Built on three levels following the steep

slope of the hillside (its odd to go downstairs to bed), this delightful boutiquestyle hotel comes warmly recommended.
Corridors are wide, bright and white,
and are adorned with striking images
by local photographer Robert Candela;
rooms are mostly a soothing sky blue,
with views of garden, sea and mountain.
The lovely small garden, shaded by a
giant palm, is surrounded by a riot of
bougainvillea.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

HTEL RESTAURANT BELLA

VISTA // PORTO
Map p88; %04 95 26 11 08; www.hotel-corse.com, in
French; rte de Calvi; d 65-93, r per person incl half board
35; hAprmid-Oct; pa

An easy walk from the summertime

hubbub of the port area, this welcoming
hotel is built in attractive granite and has
a high-quality restaurant (p90). Rooms
are bright and trim, and all have a balcony overlooking either the rear garden or
Capu dOrtu. Half board is compulsory
in August.
MHOTEL CORSICA //
PORTO
Map p88; %04 95 26 10 89; www.hotel-corsica-porto
.com; d 55-85; hAprmid-Oct; pas

LA CHTAIGNERAIE //
VISA
%04 95 26 24 47; www.hotel-la-chataigneraie.com, in
French; d 40-53; hmid-Aprmid-Oct; p

A stout building of grey granite on the

western side of the village, La Chtaigneraie (Chestnut Grove) is run by a
friendly Corsican and his Californian
wife. Its a welcoming, homely place with
12 no-frills, impeccably clean bedrooms
and a restaurant (p93) that merits a visit
in its own right.

247

HTEL LES ROCHES ROUGES //

PIANA
%04 95 27 81 81; www.lesrochesrouges.com, in
French; d 114-129; hmid-Marmid-Nov; pW

At the entrance to Piana on the Porto

side, Les Roches Rouges first opened as a
prestige hotel in 1912, and little seems to
have changed since this time, apart from
the addition of a telephone or two and
wi-fi access; indeed, one of the hotels
many charms is its lived-in, just-slightlydog-eared condition. Though far from
the bargain it once was, the place continues to ooze faded, turn-of-the-century
elegance with its magnificent dining
room and sweeping foyer, where guests
play chess and backgammon. Rooms are
huge and sparsely furnished; ask for one
with a sea view and what a view! for
an extra 7.50 per person.
MAISON DHTE GIARGALO //
PIANA
%04 95 27 82 05; www.giargalo.com; ancien chemin
Piana Ota; r incl breakfast 50-77, r per person incl half
board 47-58; p

Located 300m up the road behind the

tourist oce, this most attractive option
has five charmingly decorated rooms.
The cuisine draws upon Corsican specialities and organic produce (including
home-grown vegetables), and Madames
bread, pasta and an impressive assortment of jams are all homemade. Drinking water is drawn from the hotels
own well, and solar panels power your
lighting.

GOLFE DE SAGONE
HTEL THALASSA // CARGSE
%04 95 26 40 08; www.thalassalura.com; d 95, r per
person incl half board 140-150; hMay-Sep; p

You half expect Monsieur Hulot to come

loping round the corner at this hugely
friendly family-run place, constructed

ACCOMMODATION

The unmissable pink MHotel Corsica

is unspectacular, but it provides excellent value. Its also quiet, sitting at the
edge of a eucalyptus wood, well apart
from the bustle of the marina gaze
from the pool and all is greenness
before you. Its 30 simply furnished
rooms all have a balcony, and the toilet
cubicle is separate to the bathroom.
Some bedrooms have air-con (10 supplement), while others, for that extra
degree of independence, have a kitchenette (6 supplement, minimum three
nights).

T H E W E S T C OA S T

248

T H E W E S T C OA S T

by the Garidaccis half a century ago. The

garden leads onto the beach, and the 26
airy rooms are neat and simply furnished;
all except four have a balcony, and three
have wheelchair access. Regulars some
are third-generation visitors come back
year after year, so book early. Half board
is obligatory in July and August.

GOLFE DAJACCIO &

AROUND
HTEL KALLIST // AJACCIO

ACCOMMODATION

Map p101; %04 95 51 34 45; www.hotel-kalliste

-ajaccio.com; 51 cours Napolon; d incl breakfast 78103; paW

A typical 19th-century Ajaccio town

house from the outside, the Htel Kallist
has had its insides ripped out to convert
it into an attractive boutique-style hotel.
The 30 rooms, with their exposed brickand stonework and terracotta tiles, gleam
bright and white (even if some are on the
small side), while the vaulted corridors
have an almost-monastic feel. Theres
nothing self-denying, however, about
the copious buet breakfast, served in a
spacious room with attractive wooden
tables and chairs; theres even a large flatscreen TV in case you cant live without
the morning news. Reception also serves,
incongruously, as a car-rental outlet.
HTEL LES MOUETTES //
AJACCIO
o Map p101; %04 95 50 40 40; www.hotelles
mouettes.fr; 9 cours Lucien Bonaparte; r 100-290;
hmid-Marmid-Nov; paiWs

Les Mouettes occupies a lovely 19thcentury mansion that in its time has
served as both convent and cinema studios. Laze on the shaded terrace, lounge
by the pool beneath a pair of centuryold palms, or step down to the secluded
beach just below. Of the 28 rooms,
21 have sea views; the superior-grade

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

rooms have particularly large balconies.

Youll sleep in illustrious company
among the hotels celebrity guests feature a couple of exprime ministers, the
nearprime minister Sgolne Royal,
Eric Cantona and Michael Schumacher.
HTEL MARENGO // AJACCIO

o Map p101; %04 95 21 43 66; www.hotel-marengo

.com; 2 rue Marengo; d with shower 59-63, with private
bathroom 75-85; hApr-Oct; a

This charmingly eccentric hotel is down a

cul-de-sac o bd Madame Mre. Once a
private villa, the hotel has 17 delightfully
and individually decorated rooms with
balconies overlooking a flowery garden
terrace, while reception is an agreeable
clutter of tasteful prints and personal
objects. Cet htel a une me, (This hotel
has a soul), the manageress told us with
panache and we knew what she meant.
LE MAQUIS // PORTICCIO
%04 95 25 05 55; www.lemaquis.com; d 180-550;
hclosed 6 weeks Jan & Feb; paiWs

This delightful hideaway (a favourite of

Nicolas Sarkozy) sits amid beautifully
maintained grounds, 2km south of Porticcio. In addition to its private beach, it
has two pools, one of which is indoors,
heated and open year-round. The 27
bedrooms are spacious and, like the
public areas, individually and exquisitely
furnished with antique pieces. Its restaurant, LArbousier, oers gourmet cuisine
in an equally tasteful environment.
MAISON DHTES CHTELET DE
CAMPO // CAMPO
%04 95 53 74 18; www.chatelet-de-campo.com;
d incl breakfast 95-120, ste incl breakfast 130-150;
ps

Nearly a decade ago, Elisabeth and Dominique Herzet (both excellent speakers
of English) abandoned careers in Bel-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

gium to renovate this delightful granite

mansion, constructed by a Corsican who
had made his fortune in Panama. The
mansions three doubles are light, airy
and furnished with great taste, while the
suite has its own terrace. The views from
the 2nd-floor balcony, open to all, are inspiring, and theres a gorgeous pool and
garden, complete with shady gazebo. The
sole impediment: theres a minimum of
two nights stay (three between June and
September). Be sure to reserve ahead.

THE SOUTH

TOP FIVE
ROOM WITH A (SEA) VIEW
Competition is fierce in this department:

Htel Alivi (p251) Perched in the

hills overlooking the Golfe de Santa
Giulia

Htel Les Roches Rouges (p247)

Turn-of-the-century elegance and
views over the Golfe de Porto

Chambres dHtes A Littariccia

(p251) Stunning views of Plage de
Palombaggia

PORTO POLLO & AROUND

HTEL LE GOLFE // PORTO

POLLO
%04 95 74 01 66; www.hotel-corse-porto-pollo
.com; d 160-450; hMar-Dec; paiW

Htel Le Pinarello (p252) Stylish

decor and unforgettable views over
the Golfe de Pinarello

Htel Les Mouettes (opposite) A

19th-century mansion overlooking
the Golfe dAjaccio

THE SOUTH

This temple of luxury overlooking the

harbour revels in minimalist lines and
soothing colour accents. The sweeping
views from the balconies make a sundowner taste all the sweeter.

PROPRIANO
HTEL BELLEVUE

Proprianos most aordable option, the

Bellevue is right on the heaving waterfront. Rest assured, however, the rooms
are soundproofed and, even if theyre
fairly standard in appearance, theyre
fresh and well tended. Those facing the
sea have enticing views that are well
worth the extra fiscal outlay.
LE LIDO

Map p119; %04 95 76 06 37; www.le-lido.com; av

Napolon; r 120-225; hMay-Sep; paW

Though the decor is ageing a bit, this

small-scale venture boasts an irresistible

location at the western edge of town,

between two beaches. The 14 haciendalike rooms are situated around a leafdappled courtyard and have rear terraces
that open onto the beach. The attached
restaurant rates as one of the best in the
region.

LE SARTENAIS
CHAMBRES DHTES DOMAINE
DE CROCCANO // SARTNE
%04 95 77 11 37; www.corsenature.com; rte de
Granace; d incl breakfast 76-87; hJan-Nov; W

The three rooms, with exposed stone

walls and period furniture, occupy a
granite cottage nestled within a 10-acre
property. The breezy terrace oers eagles-eye panoramas, and theres also a
small equestrian centre. In July and August, the owners prefer to rent the rooms
by the week (700). Located about 3.5km
from Sartne, this is an excellent bucolic
retreat.

ACCOMMODATION

Map p119; %04 95 76 01 86; www.hotels-propriano

.com; av Napolon; s 42-83, d 49-99; pW

249

250

THE SOUTH

HTEL SAN DAMIANU //

SARTNE
%04 95 70 55 41; www.sandamianu.fr; d 105-190;
hApr-Oct; paiWs

The San Damianu has a perfect location

just staggering distance from the vieille
ville (old town), sleek rooms with all
the mod cons, a soothing yellow colour
scheme, million-dollar views over the
Valle du Rizzanese, and a sparkling
swimming pool.
HTEL LILIUM MARIS //
TIZZANO
%04 95 77 12 20; www.lilium-maris.com; Plage de
Tizzano; d 75-165; hApr-Sep; paWs

Lilium Maris main drawcard? Its sensational position right on the beach.
Rooms are stylishly furnished and have
plenty of natural light. Book a sea-facing
room, as the other ones overlook the car
park.

ACCOMMODATION

LE SARTENAIS TO
BONIFACIO
CHAMBRES DHTES
BERGERIES DE PISCIA //
PISCIA
%04 95 71 06 71; http://corse-chambres-hotes.com,
in French; d incl breakfast 90-150; hApr-Oct; s

Find bucolic bliss at these converted

bergeries (shepherds huts) that boast
a faaabulous location. The panoramic
pool comes high on the list of best
swims ever: the views of the coast are
simply out of this world. Rooms are a
bit on the poky side, but are quirkily
decorated with a combination of wood
and other natural materials. The property includes a parc animalier (animal
park) as well as an equestrian centre.
The food (menu 38) is a definite plus
youll feast on hearty Corsican fare in
an atmospheric room. This is a delight

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

for urbanites searching for a rustic-chic

getaway.

BONIFACIO & AROUND

DOMAINE DE LICETTO //
BONIFACIO

off Map p130; %04 95 73 03 59, 04 95 73 19 48;

www.licetto.com; rte du Phare; d 45-90; p

Located just a couple of kilometres east

of Bonifacio yet light years away from
the hustle and bustle of the coast, this is
a very nice surprise. Look at the rates!
The seven rooms sport well-chosen tiles
and modern furnishings, and feel fresh
and comfortable. The eight self-catering
apartments are more ordinary. Theres a
well-regarded on-site restaurant (p133).
HTEL DES TRANGERS //
BONIFACIO

Map p130; %04 95 73 01 09; fax 04 95 73 16 97; av

Sylvre Bohn; d 38-73; hAprmid-Oct; paW

The Foreigners Hotel deserves a pat on

the back for quoting very reasonable
rates even in high season. Rooms are
clean, modern and, if not especially
aesthetically appealing, comfortable. Of
course, this value-for-money place is no
secret bookings are essential in high
season. Its on the main road, north of
the harbour.
HTEL GENOVESE //
BONIFACIO

Map p130; %04 95 73 12 34; www.hotel-genovese

.com; rte de Bonifacio; d 130-285; hOct-Mar;
paWs

This nearly-but-not-quite boutique hotel will appeal to design-savvy travellers,

with its stylish furniture, soothing tones
and lovely swimming pool built on the
ramparts. Try to score an outside-facing
room, rather than a darker courtyardfacing one.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

HTEL LE COLOMBA //
BONIFACIO
Map p130; %04 95 73 73 44; www.hotel-bonifacio
-corse.fr; rue Simon Varsi; d 80-160; hMar-Nov;

THE SOUTH

251

Giulia hits all the right charm buttons,

with 10 handsomely designed rooms; angle for a room with a sea view. The icing
on the cake is the lovely swimming pool.

paW

Supercentral Le Colomba is excellent

value for money. It occupies a renovated
14th-century building and features clean
rooms with all the necessary comforts;
some are embellished with period furniture. Breakfast (at an extra cost) is served
in a welcoming vaulted room.

PORTO-VECCHIO
HTEL MISTRAL

Map p136; %04 95 70 08 53; www.lemistral.eu; rue

Jean Nicoli; d 55-145; hMar-Oct; paW

This reliable pile wins no prizes for character but its centrally located and has
well-equipped (if smallish) rooms with
clean bathrooms. Some have balconies
and are nicer than others, so ask to see a
few. Rejoice: parking is free.
HTEL SAN GIOVANNI

Map p136; %04 95 70 22 25; www.hotel-san

-giovanni.com, in French; rte dArca; s 65-110,
d 70-130; hMar-Oct; Ws

AROUND PORTO-VECCHIO
HTEL ALIVI // GOLFE DE SANTA
GIULIA
Map p139; %04 95 52 01 68; www.santa-giulia.fr;
d 135-360; hApr-Oct; paiWs

This sleek, intimate hotel perched in

the hills overlooking the Golfe de Santa

Map p139; %04 95 70 41 33; www.littariccia.com;

rte de Palombaggia; d incl breakfast 60-200; s

This well-tended property has six cocoonlike rooms in two neat houses, plus
a small pool, adjective-defying views of
Plage de Palombaggia and an aable welcome. Simply turn up, absorb and enjoy.
LES BERGERIES DE
PALOMBAGGIA //
PALOMBAGGIA

Map p139; %04 95 70 03 23; www.hotel-bergeries

-palombaggia.com; rte de Palombaggia; d 165-560;
hApr-Nov; paWs

Set in the hills overlooking the Plage de

Palombaggia, this boutique-style hotel
oers a mix of comfort, style and ambience, with 13 tastefully decorated rooms,
some with a sea view. The coup de grce
is the pool, which looks like the location
for a photo shoot from Vogue.
CHAMBRES DHTES
LHTE ANTIQUE //
PETRALONGA SALVINI

off Map p139; %04 95 71 20 17, 06 22 24 85 73;

www.lhote-antique.com; d incl breakfast 75-95;
aW

From this B&B you can easily reach Porto-Vecchio, Plage de Santa Giulia, Plage
de Rondinara and Bonifacio, making it
an ideal base. The five rooms are very
spacious and well appointed; some rooms
have exposed beams and balconies. Table
dhtes (27) are available twice a week.
Petralonga Salvini is about 14km south
of Porto-Vecchio, o the N198; take the
D459 to the right and follow the signs.

ACCOMMODATION

The San Giovanni makes you feel youve

stepped into a Garden of Eden the 1.25hectare landscaped gardens are a treat,
with lots of flowers, ponds and palm trees,
not to mention a lovely pool. Other perks
include bike hire, jacuzzi and tennis court.
By comparison, the rooms lack wow factor. Its on the southwestern outskirts.

CHAMBRES DHTES A
LITTARICCIA // PALOMBAGGIA

252

THE SOUTH

HTEL LE PINARELLO // PLAGE

DE PINARELLO
Map p139; %04 95 71 44 39; www.lepinarello.com;
d 270-455; hmid-AprOct; paW

Right on Plage de Pinarello, this modern

abode combines location, service and
sleekness. Rooms have all been stylishly
decorated with rich designer fabrics, and
are colour coordinated in cooling creams
and earthy hues. The views over the sea
are unforgettable.
MOTEL DES AMANDIERS //
PLAGE DE PINARELLO

Map p139; %04 95 71 43 64; d 46-62; hMay-Oct

Its no misprint the rates are correct.

The Motel des Amandiers is the bestvalue hotel for miles around, with seven
adjoining rooms set in verdant gardens.
Sure, the layout of the rooms screams
70s, but at these prices, and with such a
location, nobodys complaining.

LALTA ROCCA
CHAMBRES DHTES U
SPITAGHJU // LOSPDALE

ACCOMMODATION

%04 95 26 77 53, 06 12 51 01 25; d incl breakfast

60-80; W

A home away from home, this perky

little B&B occupies a lovingly restored
stone house on the main drag. The three
rooms are muted and tasteful, with crisp
linen and glistening bathrooms. The
garden at the back oers mind-boggling
views over the Golfe de Porto-Vecchio.
CHAMBRES DHTES DE
CAVANELLO // ZONZA
%04 95 78 66 82; www.locationzonza.com; hameau
de Cavanello; d 60-70; Ws

This is a pretty pocket of Corsica, rural

and pleasing on the eye. It features nine
well-proportioned, functional rooms,
and several hectares of meadows and
forests that hide you from all but the

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

wildlife. Theres also a lovely half-moonshaped pool, so you may be reluctant to

leave this place of easy bliss. Breakfast
costs 7. The B&B is about 2km from
Zonza.
HTEL LE TOURISME //
ZONZA
%04 95 78 67 72; www.hoteldutourisme.fr; rte
de Quenza; s 80-110, d 90-160; hApr-Oct;
paiWs

This reliable number is nothing glam,

but the 18 rooms are light filled and well
organised. Be sure to ask for a valleyfacing room the views are splendid!
There are also five colourful rooms in
an annexe across the street. The pice
de rsistance is the small pool at the
back, with inspirational views of the Alta
Rocca.
LE PR AUX BICHES // ZONZA
%06 27 52 48 03; www.lepreauxbiches.com; d with
shared bathroom 50; hMay-Oct

Revive your childhood fantasies of

camping out at this trippy venue. LAlta
Roccas quirkiest accommodation option, its oers splendid isolation in a
field surround by laricio pines, 10 minutes walk down from Zonza. Digs are
in six Mongolian-style yurts that can
sleep up to six people. Theyre comfortable, with parquet flooring and colourful furnishings, and the ablution block
is in top nick. Meals (from 15) are
available on request. A refreshing dash
of originality.
CHEZ PIERROT // QUENZA
%04 95 78 63 21; Ghjallicu; d incl half board 105

Its hard not to be impressed by the

end-of-the-world feeling that emanates
from this place, on Plateau de Ghjallicu, about 5km uphill from Quenza.
Rest your head in one of the five well-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

kept rooms in a granite building, then

sign up for a horse-riding excursion
(about 15 per hour) with Pierrot, the
charismatic owner, or head to the eerie
Plateau du Coscione for a picnic or a
short walk.
GTE CORSE ODYSSE //
QUENZA
%04 95 78 64 05; www.gite-corse-odyssee.com;
r per person incl half board 50-60; hApr-Sep

This gte dtape in a modern building

boasts a superquiet location on a forested
site about 1km from Quenza. Beds are
in two- to seven-person dorms. Its not
your average gte rooms here are all
individually decorated in warm tones.
Your hosts are very helpful (Nathalie
speaks good English), and the meals are
copious and wholesome.
A PIGNATA // LEVIE
%04 95 78 41 90; www.apignata.com; rte du Pianu;
d incl half board 80-155; hMar-Oct; iWs

CHAMBRES DHTES U PALAZZU //

STE-LUCIE DE TALLANO
%04 95 78 82 40, 06 79 07 93 77; upalazzu@orange
.fr; d incl breakfast 75; hmid-AprOct

This place, set in a characterful town

house, has charm in spades. The three
rooms are decorated with period furniture, four-poster beds (in two rooms),
ancient tiles and pastel-coloured walls.
The sunny garden is the perfect remedy
to a day spent on twisty roads.

253

GTE DTAPE U FRAGNONU //

STE-LUCIE DE TALLANO
%04 95 78 82 56; www.alta-roc.fr; dm per person
incl half board 40; hAprmid-Oct

A far cry from your usual gte dtape, U

Fragnonu occupies a converted oil mill
about 300m from the main square. The
four-bed dorms are impeccable, as are
the communal areas. Meals are copious
and tasty. The owner is a canyoning and
climbing guide, and organises day trips
to Bavella.

THE EAST
LA COSTA VERDE
U PAESOLU A SUVERA A U
VENTU // CERVIONE
%06 83 43 57 07; www.ecotourismecorse.com; rte
dAnghione; 4-person gtes per week 350-620

A hamlet of five gtes in the style of

traditional Castagniccia village houses
and shepherds huts, U Paesolu is part
of an ecotourism centre utilising environmentally friendly processes such as
cork and hemp insulation, solar-heated
water, and reed beds for the treatment
of waste water. The gtes are simply but
attractively furnished (to encourage
socialising there are no TVs), and sleep
four to eight people; the owners oer
courses in painting, basketwork and
ethnobotany, among other things. You
will find it situated 1km east of Cervione on the D71.
CASA CORSA CHAMBRES
DHTES DOUMENS // PRUNETE
%/fax 04 95 38 01 40; www.casa-corsa.net; Acqua
Nera; s/d incl breakfast 59/66; p

This modern ochre-coloured house

has a stylish Provenal feel, with six
cosy rooms embellished with lots of
decorative touches such as terracotta
tiles, chestnut beams, colour-washed

ACCOMMODATION

Hidden in the foothills of the Alta Rocca,

this boutique-style inn is a peach of a
place, with superb rooms and splendid
suites that are decorated with a contemporary twist. And yes, theres a (heated)
swimming pool. The restaurant (p147)
rates as one of the best in southern Corsica. The perfect marriage of authenticity
and modernity.

THE EAST

254

THE EAST

walls and colourful bedspreads. Hearty

breakfasts are served under a lovely
vine-covered pergola. Its 6km south of
Moriani-Plage and 5km east of Cervione, about 100m o the N198 via a dirt
track.
HTEL-RESTAURANT LE
BELVDRE DE CATARELLE //
SAN GIOVANNI DI MORIANI
%04 95 38 51 64; www.corsica-catarelle.com; s 60-70,
d 70-135, ste 104-135, r per person incl half board
68-100; hMar-Nov; p

This intimate 10-room hotel has a

pleasantly rustic atmosphere, with pine
furniture, white walls and colourful
bedspreads. Best of the lot is the suite
called Anne, which features sloping
beamed ceilings, warm fabrics and a
private roof terrace. Another draw is
the garden dining area, which has ravishing views over the Morianincu and
the sea. Its gay- and biker-friendly.
Half board is compulsory in July and
August.

ACCOMMODATION

LA CASTAGNICCIA
CHAMBRES DHTES LA
DILIGENCE // VERDSE
%04 95 34 26 33; [email protected]; s/d
incl breakfast 45/59; hApr-Oct; i

Situated in the heart of the peaceful village of Verdse (a few kilometres north
of Piedicroce), this bijou chambres
dhtes is located in a former coach inn
that has been tastefully restored. The
five rooms radiate charm, and contain
beamed ceilings, original fireplaces,
period furnishings and parquet floors.
At the end of the day, make sure you
treat yourself to a copious table dhtes
(dinner 23; available five days a week)
on the terrace; the delicious Corsican
specialities are made using the finest
local produce.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

TOUR DE TEVOLA // CARCHETO

%04 95 31 29 89; www.tevola.com; 4-person gtes
per week 250-410; s

Best-selling Corsican author Jean-Claude

Rogliano has restored a medieval tower
house in the picture-postcard village of
Carcheto to create six charismatic gtes
that share a common garden, terrace
and pool, complete with barbecue and a
functioning traditional bread oven. The
rooms are snug (the old building has
thick stone walls and narrow windows),
but the setting and atmosphere could not
be more authentic.
CHAMBRE DHTES PETRI //
GAVIGNANO-BORGO
%04 95 48 43 27; [email protected]; s/d incl breakfast
52/60

No English is spoken at this welcoming B&B in the hamlet of Borgo, a few

kilometres south of Morosaglia. Never
mind its snug and has a likeably
old-fashioned feel, with wood-panelled
ceilings, parquet flooring and walls carpeted with country-style floral patterns.
Killer views are thrown in for good
measure. The terrace at the rear is a
treat, and Monsieur Petri will be happy
to explain everything you ever wanted
to know about Corsican charcuterie
(but were too afraid to ask). Theres
only one room, so book ahead.
U VECCHJU MULINU //
FORNOLI
%04 95 28 91 87; http://monsite.wanadoo.fr/vecchju
-mulinu; d per week 230-410; ps

This ancient water mill nestled within

lush green gardens has been converted
into three attractive gtes (two doubles,
one for four people) that have equal parts
traditional and modern appeal. Mix in a
warm welcome, a beautiful garden with
barbecue, a cool pool and a great loca-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

tion (about 4km from Ortiporio), and

youve got a recipe for a restful retreat.
The owner is fluent in English.

COSTA SERENA &

CTE DES NACRES
TAGLIO DI SACRAMENTO //
VIX-VENTISERI
%/fax 04 95 57 43 83; www.taglio-di-sacramento
.com; Villa le Cdre Bleu; d incl breakfast 70-110;
pas

This adorable and peaceful B&B seduces

all who stay theres a fresh, modern feel
and the attention to detail is impressive.
The three rooms are coolly tiled, and are
decorated in soothing pastels and fluttering voiles, with nice prints on fresh walls
and pale exposed beams. Beaches are a
short drive away. Its about 6km south of
Ghisonaccia, about 700m o the N198
(look for the small signpost), along a
twisting road.
GTE DTAPE DE CATASTAJU //
CATASTAJU
%04 95 56 70 14, 06 79 74 81 58; dm 15, dm per
person incl half board 33; hApr-Oct; p

VILLA CLOTILDE // PRUNELLI DI

FIUMORBU
%04 95 57 93 92, 06 79 49 00 44; d incl breakfast 5570, apt per week 450-600

Swap stress for bliss at this Tuscan-style

palazzo. The two gleaming rooms offer unremitting comfort oak parquet

255

floors, period furnishings and excellent

bedding not to mention ravishing views
over the valley from private balconies.
Breakfast is served in an atmospheric
dining room or on the terrace. Theres
also an apartment that can sleep four to
six people, available by the week only.
HTEL LA SOLENZARA //
SOLENZARA
%04 95 57 42 18; www.lasolenzara.com; rte Principale; r incl breakfast 75-110; hmid-MarOct;
paiWs

Deservedly three-star, this stately Genoese villa overlooking the harbour

mixes modern and traditional decor in a
feast of high ceilings, ancient tiled floors,
exposed beams and antique mirrors. The
swimming pool sits in a beautiful garden
with sea views, and is complemented by
a minispa that includes a jacuzzi, Turkish bath and massage room.

THE CENTRAL
MOUNTAINS
CORTE
CHAMBRES DHTES OSTERIA
DI LORTA CASA GUELFUCCI

off Map p174; %04 95 61 06 41; www.osteria-di-l

-orta.com; d 85, d incl half board 140; pWs

Restored with great taste and restraint,

this large powder-blue maison de famille
(family house) is run by a welcoming
young couple. The four rooms and single
suite are airy and spacious, with parquet
flooring, and power showers. Half board
is required in July and August. Dinners
(25) come in for warm praise.
HTEL DU NORD

Map p174; %04 95 46 00 68; www.hoteldunord

-corte.com; 22 cours Paoli; r 95; paW

Never mind the busy thoroughfare in

summer and the somewhat-peeling

ACCOMMODATION

Set in a converted hydroelectric power

station (dont be put o, this is a French
hydroelectric power station: small, cute
and even rather pretty), this gte dtape
on the Mare a Mare Centre hiking trail
(p217) is tucked away amid glowingly
verdant forest. It features well-kept
four- to 10-bed dorms, with the beautiful
vasques (natural pools) of the Abatescu
river just outside the door.

T H E C E N T R A L M O U N TA I N S

256

T H E C E N T R A L M O U N TA I N S

exterior the grande dame of Cortes

sleeping scene is kept in top nick. It
features a fine selection of cheerful and
spacious rooms with all the creature
comforts.

(known as gte dtape htel) are unbeatable value, with parquet flooring and an
enticing retro feel.

HTEL DUC DE PADOUE

%04 95 48 69 33; www.casavanella.com; d incl

breakfast 75-90; pW

Map p174; %04 95 46 01 37; www.ducdepadoue

.com; place Padoue; s 92, d 100-111; paW

Dont be deterred by the scruy facade of

this professionally run abode. Renovated
throughout in 2007, the hotel has an inviting interior that oers well-equipped
rooms, flat-screen TVs, plump bedding,
muted tones and squeaky-clean bathrooms. Ask for a room with a balcony.

VALLE DE LA RESTONICA
LES JARDINS DE LA GLACIRE
%04 95 45 27 00; www.lesjardinsdelaglaciere.com;

ACCOMMODATION

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

CHAMBRES DHTES CASA

VANELLA // CASAMACCIOLI

This adorable B&B seduces all who stay

here. It has a fresh, modern feel, and the
five rooms are coolly tiled and decorated
in soothing pastels. Your charming
hosts, Jean-Franois and Pascale, are
very knowledgable about the valley, and
can advise on local activities and walking trails. They also do a table dhte
(27.50), with local, seasonal products.
Pascale speaks good English.

VALLE DASCO

s 60-85, d 65-95; hAprmid-Nov; paWs

E CIME

At the entrance of the valley, this wellrun hotel is the perfect place to relax after
a day touring the central mountains. It
has clean, fresh rooms, impeccable communal areas and a fantastic location by
the river, but you should steer clear of the
rooms facing the road. Theres a lovely
pool, but the real clincher is the sprawling
garden overlooking the river you can
dunk yourself in the natural pools just
below.

%04 95 47 81 84; www.e-cime.com; Asco; d incl half

board 115; hMar-Oct; pW

VALLE DU NIOLO
HTEL DES TOURISTES //
CALACUCCIA
%04 95 48 00 04; www.hotel-des-touristes.com;
d with shared bathroom 21, s/d with shower
42/50, with private bathroom 50/60; hApr-Oct

Rooms are modest but prices are sweet

at this venerable old pile, built in 1928.
The interior is tidy and serviceable, with
three types of room; ask to see a few
before settling in. The cheapest ones

Though the modernish rooms are a bit

lacking in the charm department, theyre
comfy enough to receive a tired body after a full day of exploring the valley. No,
youre not hallucinating the view over
the valley is real. The attached restaurant
(mains 9 to 15) is held in high esteem.

LE BOZIU
CHAMBRES DHTES CASA DI
LUCIA // MAZZOLA
%04 95 48 69 93; www.casa-di-lucia.com; d incl
breakfast 85-95; W

In Mazzola, a hamlet near Alando, this

delightful two-suite boutique-style place
is run by Jean-Charles Fabiani. Hes a
painter, and it shows: theres a gallery,
the spotless rooms with period furnishings ooze charm, and the terrace is the
perfect place to soak up fab views over
the Boziu. Monsieur can arrange paint-

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

T H E C E N T R A L M O U N TA I N S

257

ing classes by reservation, and meals are

available on request (15 to 35). A stylish and brilliant-value hideaway.
CHAMBRES DHTES CASA
CAPELLINI // SANT ANDREA DI
BOZIU
%04 95 48 69 33; www.casacapellini.com; d 80-95;
iW

This lovely, clean B&B has four restful

rooms in a tastefully renovated village
house. Top that o with an aable welcome, killer views and hearty dinners
(28), and you have a chambres dhtes
that beckons you to stay for a few extra
days.

CORTE TO VIZZAVONA
MAISON DHTES CASA
GIAFFERRI // POGGIO
DI VENACO
%04 95 46 04 33: www.casagiafferri.fr; d incl breakfast 80; W

HTEL RESTAURANT I LARICCI //

VIZZAVONA
%04 95 47 21 22; www.ilaricci.com; s/d with shared
bathroom incl half board 62/84; hMay-Sep; p

This large chalet-style building just above

the station has 12 cosy rooms, six with
mountain views. All have creaky parquet
floors and soft beds into which many a
weary trekker has sunk. The few with
private bathroom cost 6 extra.

ACCOMMODATION

Looking for a night at a place thats extra

special? Make a beeline for this splendid
maison dhtes with an artists vibe. A true
find for peace seekers and those in search
of obeat accommodation, it has 14 rooms
that all feel like cosy nests; no two are the
same. Theres even an art gallery. You can
count on Annette, your well-travelled,
English-speaking host, to make you feel at
home. She prepares delicious meals (15)
and can organise cooking classes.

DIRECTORY

BUSINESS HOURS
Businesses tend to open between 9am
and noon, and from 2pm or 3pm to
6pm or 7pm, Monday to Friday or
Saturday. Many food concerns, such
as pastry shops, bakeries, butchers and
greengrocers, close at noon too. In July
and August, many shops and businesses
stay open between 8am and 8pm and
sometimes even later every day. Others, despite the once-a-year opportunity
to replenish the till, continue to close for
a couple of hours in the early afternoon.
Banks are open from 8am or 9am to
11.30am or 1pm, then 1.30pm to 4.30pm
or 5pm, Monday to Friday or Tuesday
to Saturday. Exchange services may end
half an hour before closing time.
Post oces are generally open from
8.30am or 9am to 5pm or 6pm on weekdays (perhaps with a midday break); on
Saturdays they open from 8am to noon.
Opening hours (and days) may be much
less at village post oces.
Tourist oces are generally open from
at least 9am to noon or 1pm, then 2pm or

3pm to 5pm, Monday to Friday. Hours

are more generous in summer, when
most oces open seven days a week and
many dont observe the midday break.
Sadly, many churches, especially in
rural areas, are closed except when Mass
is held. Ask for the key at a nearby bar or
at the mairie (town hall). Urban churches that are also major sights are usually
open all day.
Restaurants serve lunch between noon
and 2pm or 3pm; dinner is served any
time between 6.30pm and 11pm. In the
low season, restaurants usually close one
day a week; however, in tourist-populated
areas many restaurants shut for several
months. Between June and September,
most restaurants open daily for both lunch
and dinner. Paradoxically, in some seaside
towns such as Ajaccio, some restaurants
close at midday at this time, reasoning that
everyones picnicking on the beach.
Cafes are open from early morning
until around 10pm, usually every day of
the week. Bars and clubs open daily from
7pm to 2am or 3am, although some bars
are open from mid-morning onwards.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

CHILDREN
Although purpose-made kids attractions
are scarce, Corsica is an eminently suitable destination if youre travelling with
children. With its abundance of beaches
and opportunities for outdoor activities, theres plenty to do in a generally
hazard-free setting. Most Corsicans are
welcoming to children.
The summer sun in Corsica can strike
hard, and you should make sure that
children are not overexposed to its rays:
use a high-protection sunscreen, reapply
it several times daily, and ensure they
wear a hat. Make sure that they drink
lots of liquid as well. There are excellent
medical facilities in the main cities.
Lonely Planets Travel with Children
by Brigitte Barta et al is crammed with
tips for keeping children and parents
happy on the road. See also p24 for more
on family travel in Corsica.

CUSTOMS
REGULATIONS
If youre coming from another EU
country, there are no additional taxes on
duty-paid items for personal consump-

CHILDREN

259

tion. Duty-free shopping and VAT refunds dont apply to visitors returning to
an EU country.
The following items can be brought
into France duty-free from non-EU
countries: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars; 1L
of strong liquor or 2L of liquor that is
less than 22% alcohol by volume; 4L of
still table wine; 16L of beer; and other
goods up to the value of 183.

DANGERS &
ANNOYANCES
When Corsica makes the headlines, its
often because nationalist militants have
engaged in an act of violence, such as
bombing a public building or robbing
a bank. But the violence, if you exclude
the occasional torching of someones
holiday home, has never been targeted
at tourists, and theres no reason for visitors to fear for their safety. Muggings
are unheard of, and your stay should be
trouble-free. Still, you should observe the
usual precautions; in particular, dont
leave any valuables in your car, even in
the most innocuous rural idyll.
The main hazards in Corsica are
the winding roads that follow narrow

PRACTICALITIES
Corsica uses the metric system for weights and measures.

Electric current is 220V, 50Hz AC; plugs have two round pins.

If your French is up to it, keep your finger on the pulse by reading the daily regional
newspaper Corse Matin. Or pick up Arriti or O Ribombu (in French and in Corsican) if
you want to get an idea of some nationalist prose. The monthly magazine Corsica (in
French) is good for the latest on Corsicas current issues.

For French TV, try the commercial stations Tf1 and M6, or the state-owned channels
France 2 and France 3.

Tune in to the radio stations France Bleu Frequenza Mora (www.bleurcfm.com) or

Alta Frequenza (www.alta-frequenza.com) for local news (in French and Corsican) and
polyphonic singing.

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260

DISCOUNT CARDS

DRIVING TIP
Driving? Lets just say that Corsica is close
to Italy geographically, culturally and in
the way its citizens drive. Check in your
mirror for a number plate ending in 2A
or 2B (the dpartements of Corse-du-Sud
and Haute-Corse); too many locals at the
wheel have a tendency to drive halfway
up your backside before pulling out
abruptly, then overtaking in situations
where responsible drivers would hold
back.

DIRECTORY

precipices (which are often bereft of any

guardrail), and the fairly frequent blind
turnings. Add to this the impatience of
Corsican drivers and the tendency for
livestock to loom before you without
warning, and youll appreciate the need
for caution. Indeed, count on an average speed of less than 60km per hour. In
general, keep your eyes on the road; if
you want to admire the scenery, stop at
a lay-by.
If you happen to pass a bunch of stray
wild pigs, dont try to feed them or allow
children to pet them. They may be cute,
but theyre also unpredictable and may
mistake you for a tasty morsel.
Bring repellent and antihistamine
cream with you if youre prone to insect
bites, particularly mosquitoes, though
both are available from pharmacies here.
Its also worth pointing out that Corsica is far less multiracial in its ethnic
make-up than most of the mainland, and
travellers may encounter racist attitudes
towards Arabs or Africans.

DISCOUNT CARDS
Senior cards entitling those aged over 60
to 50% discount on train travel are available from Chemins de Fer de la Corse

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

(p274), which runs the Corsican train

lines.
An International Student Identity
Card (ISIC; 13) and its equivalent for
teachers, the International Teacher Identity Card (ITIC; 18), can get you discounts on items such as air tickets, sports
events, concerts and movies. Many
places stipulate a maximum age for the
student card, usually 25.

EMBASSIES &
CONSULATES
All foreign embassies are in Paris, although some countries also have consulates in other major French cities, such as
Marseille and Lyon.

FOOD & DRINK

For most eating options, we indicate the
price range of mains, followed by the
price of menus (two- or three-course set
menus, often served only at lunchtime).
Menus usually dont include wine, although some fermes-auberges (farm inns)
sometimes include a bottle or carafe of
wine.
See p16 and p230 for juicy information about Corsicas rich gastronomy.
See p258 for restaurant opening hours.

GAY & LESBIAN

TRAVELLERS
Despite the fact that homosexuality
does not seem to pose a problem to this
conservative and traditional society
in theory at least there is practically
no open gay scene in Corsica. When it
comes to being out in public, the adage out of sight, out of mind applies,
especially in smaller villages. What you
do behind closed doors may be perfectly acceptable to most Corsicans, but

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

open displays of aection, especially

between men, will be frowned upon at
the very least. Discretion is advisable.
That said, few hoteliers will bat an eyelid if a same-sex couple checks into a
room together.
Online, check out Gayscape (www.gay
scape.com) and Le Guide Gay (www.leguide
gay.com, in French), though information on
Corsica is very limited.

HOLIDAYS
Most French people take their annual
holiday in July or August, deserting the
cities for the coastal or mountain resorts.
A fair proportion of these summertime
holidaymakers head for Corsica, along
with a healthy contingent of foreigners.
Corsicans need their holidays too, and
tend to head away in winter for skiing on
the mainland.
Corsicans observe the following jours
fris (public holidays):
New Years Day (Jour de lAn) 1 January
Easter Sunday & Monday (Pques & lundi de
Pques) Late March/April

Labour Day (Fte du Travail) 1 May

Victory 1945 (Fte de la Victoire 1945) 8 May
Ascension Thursday (LAscension) May
Pentecost & Whit Monday (Pentecte &
lundi de Pentecte) Mid-May/mid-June

Bastille Day/National Day (Fte Nationale)

14 July

Assumption Day (LAssomption) 15 August

All Saints Day (La Toussaint) 1 November
Remembrance Day (Armistice) 11 November
Christmas (Nol) 25 December

A travel-insurance policy to cover theft,

loss and, especially, serious medical
problems is a wise precaution. Some
policies specifically exclude dangerous
activities, which can include scuba div-

261

PRICE GUIDE
The following is a guide to the pricing
system used for eating options in this
book. Prices quoted are for an average
main course.

under 15

15 to 30

over 30

ing, motorcycling and even trekking, so

read the fine print.
You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than having you pay on the spot and claim later.
If you have to claim later ensure you
keep all documentation. Check that the
policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home. Paying for your airline
ticket with a credit card often provides
limited travel accident insurance.

INTERNET ACCESS
Corsica is not the most internet-friendly
place; youll only find internet cafes in
bigger towns and resort areas, such as
Ajaccio, Bastia, Bonifacio, Calvi, Corte,
Porto-Vecchio and Propriano. The connection is generally good and rates are
fairly standard at around 5 per hour.
However, wi-fi has spread across the
island like a forest fire. Many midrange
and all top-end hotels oer wi-fi access,
although they usually impose a charge;
coverage either extends throughout the
hotel or may be restricted to public areas.

LEGAL MATTERS
In principle, the police can search pretty
much anyone at any time whether or
not there is probable cause. Foreigners
must be able to prove their legal status in
France (eg with their passport, visa and/
or residency permit) without delay.

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INSURANCE

H O L I D AYS

262

MA P S

As elsewhere in the EU, the laws are

very tough when it comes to drinking
and driving. The legal blood-alcohol
limit is 0.05%, and drivers exceeding
this face heavy fines, plus several years
in jail. Licences can also be immediately
suspended. The import or export of drugs
can lead to a jail sentence of up to 30
years. The penalty for possession of drugs
for personal use (including cannabis,
amphetamines, ecstasy etc) can be a fine
as high as 3750 and a one-year jail sentence. The fine for littering starts at 150,
and the penalties for drunkenness and
smoking in public areas are equally severe.
Eighteen is the legal age for voting and
driving.

MAPS
The maps available from local tourist
oces are usually fine for towns, but are
insucient for navigating more widely.
The Michelin map Corse du Sud, HauteCorse (No 345) at a scale of 1:150,000
and the two IGN Carte de Promenade
maps (No 73 for the north and No 74
for the south) at a scale of 1:100,000 are
excellent for driving.
The IGN Top 25 map has a scale of
1:25,000 and is ideal for walking.

MONEY
Corsica uses the euro (). For exchange
rates, see the inside front cover of this
guidebook.

DIRECTORY

ATMS
Known in French as distributeurs automatiques de billets (DABs) or points argent,
ATMs normally accept Visa, MasterCard
and Cirrus, and are the most convenient
way to access euros. However, ATMs are
not as widespread in Corsica as they are

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

WARNING
Be warned: many restaurants, hotels
and even petrol stations in Corsica dont
accept credit cards, and its very rare for
chambres dhtes (B&Bs) and gtes dtape
(walkers lodges) to do so. Some places
will refuse cards for small amounts (typically under 15), and its fairly common
to come across a reputable restaurant
where the credit-card machine happens
to have been en panne (out of order) for
several weeks. Make sure you always
enquire first.

in mainland France; most larger Corsican

towns have an ATM, but they are scarce
in rural areas Cap Corse, the Alta Rocca
and the Haut Taravo have only one or two
ATMs each. If youre heading o into the
heart of the island, its wise to stock up
with euros beforehand.

CREDIT CARDS
In places where credit cards are accepted
(see the boxed text, above), they are the
simplest way to pay for major purchases.
Visa (Carte Bleue) and MasterCard
(Eurocard) are the cards most widely
accepted by hotels, supermarkets, major
petrol stations and stores on the island,
and both can be used to pay for air, train
and ferry travel. Credit cards are mandatory if you want to rent a car, as theyll be
used as a form of caution (deposit).
Its a good idea to check with your
credit-card company before leaving
home about charges on international
transactions.

TIPPING
By law, restaurants and bar prices all
include the service charge, so theres no
expectation of a pourboire (tip). That

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

said, many locals will leave a few coins

after a drink, or will round up the restaurant bill by a euro or two. Similarly,
if youre happy with your hotel stay, the
decent thing to do is leave a couple of
euros or so.

POST
Post oces are widespread across the
island. In some rural hamlets, they
provide a community focus, as they are
housed alongside the mairie and the local administrative oces. Some larger
branches also perform modest banking
services.
Send your postcards early in your
holiday, since mail takes a little longer to
arrive than from mainland France.

TELEPHONE

263

USEFUL NUMBERS & CODES

All telephone numbers throughout Corsica consist of 10 digits; landline numbers start with %04, and mobile-phone
numbers start with %06. If calling a
Corsican number (landline or mobile)
from overseas, drop the first 0.
International Direct Dial (IDD) calls
to almost anywhere in the world can be
made from Corsicas public telephones,
but for most you will need to have a
tlcarte.
Some useful numbers and codes:
France country code %33
International access code %00
Local directory enquiries %118 008
International directory enquiries %118 700
Online, go to PagesJaunes (www.pages
jaunes.fr) for business numbers or click on
the PagesBlanches link on its home page
for individuals numbers.

TIME
Corsica uses the 24-hour clock, with
hours separated from minutes by a lower-case h. Thus, 3.30pm is 15h30, 9.50pm
is 21h50, 12.30am is 00h30, and so on.
Corsica, like the rest of France, is on
Central European Time, which is one
hour ahead of GMT/UTC. When its
noon in Paris, its 3am in San Francisco,
6am in New York, 11am in London,
9pm in Sydney and 11pm in Auckland.
During daylight saving time, which runs
from the last Sunday in March to the last
Sunday in October, France is two hours
ahead of GMT/UTC.

TOILETS
Public toilets, signposted toilettes or WC,
are rare on the island. Most people tend to
stop by a cafe, down a quick coee, then

DIRECTORY

For mobile phones, Corsica uses the

GSM 900/1800 system, which is compatible with the rest of Europe and
Australia (though not the USA). The
network covers most towns and villages
throughout the island, even in the interior. However, you may find yourself
without coverage if youre hiking in
more-remote areas.
Youll usually find a public telephone
in or near the post oce. Many in Corsica are in a dilapidated state, and often
simply do not function. You can buy a
France Tlcom tlcarte (phonecard)
at post oces, tabacs (tobacconists),
supermarket check-out counters and
anywhere you see a blue sticker reading
tlcarte en vente ici. The phonecard
units positively race by, however, for
calls beyond Corsica and mainland
France; scratch cards with a number,
available at kiosks and some tabacs, give
you much more talking time if youre
calling abroad.

POST

264

T O U R I S T I N F O R MAT I O N

WASHBASINS
Not least of the many Italianate influences on and imports to Corsica is the
washbasin bereft of any tap, which you
sometimes find in cafes and restaurants.
Just press your foot on the knob below
the basin or pull the lever at the side and,
as for Moses, the water will flow.

use the toilets on the premises (its generally considered rude or stingy to just use
the facilities and walk out). Simply ask,
Est-ce que je peux utiliser les toilettes, sil
vous plat?
There are few, if any, toilet or washing facilities at beaches. Hikers will find
a few chemical toilets near Parc Naturel
Rgional de la Corse (PNRC; Corsican
Nature Reserve) refuges but none along
the walking trails. Be prepared to go back
to nature at times.

TOURIST INFORMATION

DIRECTORY

Main towns generally have well-informed, welcoming tourist oces where

at least one member of sta speaks English. Increasingly more-rural areas also
have some sort of small tourist-information kiosk or centre.
LAgence du Tourisme de la Corse
(%04 95 51 00 00; www.visit-corsica.com) is Corsicas regional tourist oce.
The principal tourist oces with a
regional remit are Ajaccio (Map p101; %04
95 51 53 03; 3 bd du Roi Jrme; www.ajaccio-tourisme.
com; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Sun Jul
& Aug, 8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Apr-Jun, Sep &
Oct, 8am-12.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm
Sat Nov-Mar) and Bastia (Map p39; %04 95 54 20
40; www.bastia-tourisme.com; place St-Nicolas; h8am8pm Apr-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat Oct-Mar).

Overseas French government tourist oces, usually called Maisons de la

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

France, can provide every imaginable

sort of tourist information. The general
website FranceGuide (www.franceguide.com)
lets you access the site for your home
country (click on the small Change Website tab at the bottom of the home page).

TRAVELLERS WITH
DISABILITIES
France, and especially Corsica, could
not be considered progressive in terms
of its facilities for people with disabilities. However, the situation is changing,
albeit slowly. Hotels and restaurants are
modernising, and are adding wheelchairaccessible rooms and toilet facilities
(indeed, the provision of at least one
disabled-access room is now a requirement of the law for new or modernising
hotels). The Ajaccio branch of the Association des Paralyss de France (%/fax 04
95 20 75 33; 19 bis Rue du Docteur del Pellegrino) publishes details of places in Corsica (hotels,
restaurants, cultural sites and so on) that
are accessible to people with disabilities.
These details can also be obtained from
Ajaccios tourist oce (Map p101; %04 95 51
53 03; 3 bd du Roi Jrme; www.ajaccio-tourisme.com;
h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Sun Jul &
Aug, 8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Apr-Jun, Sep &
Oct, 8am-12.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm
Sat Nov-Mar).

Many ferries have some cabins that

are accessible to wheelchair users; see
p267 for contact details of major ferry
companies.

VISAS
By law, everyone in France, including
tourists, must carry some sort of ID on
them at all times. For foreign visitors,
this means a passport (a photocopy
should do if you dont want to carry your
passport for security reasons, although

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

W O M E N T R AV E L L E R S

265

you may be required to verify your identity later) or, for citizens of those EU
countries that issue them, a national ID
card.
There are no entry requirements for
EU nationals, and citizens of Australia,
the USA, Canada, New Zealand and Israel can visit France as tourists for up to
three months without a visa.
For up-to-date information on visa
requirements, see the website of the
French Ministry of Foreign Aairs
(www.diplomatie.gouv.fr) and click on Going
to France.

WOMEN TRAVELLERS

DIRECTORY

Women travelling solo should experience no problems in Corsica. Corsicans

are almost universally polite to women,
and it is very unlikely that you will be
subjected to the catcalls you may encounter in big cities on the mainland.
Physical attack is rare but, as in any
country, women should use their common sense and remain conscious of their
surroundings. If you find yourself the
recipient of unwanted male attention, its
best to ignore it.
Its wise to dress modestly in the towns
of inland Corsica, where communities
are more conservative than in coastal
cities. Skimpy clothing in such a context
is both shocking and inconsiderate.
Frances national rape-crisis hotline
(%0800 05 95 95), run by a womens organisation, can be reached toll-free from any
telephone without using a phonecard.
In an emergency, call the police (%17)
or the Europe-wide emergency number
(%112).

TRANSPORT

ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE

AIR
High season for air travel to Corsica is
May to September. Indeed, thats the
only time youll be able to find direct international flights to the island. Outside
those months, youll have to look at flying via a French mainland airport, such
as Paris, Lyon, Nice or Marseille.
AIRPORTS

Corsica has four airports: Ajaccio,

Bastia, Calvi and Figari. The main hub
is Ajaccios Campo dellOro airport
(AJA; www.ajaccio.aeroport.fr), which is where
the bulk of European scheduled and
charter flights land. There are frequent
flights to/from mainland France operated by Air France and the Corsican
home-grown CCM Airlines (Compagnie Corse Mditerrane), also known
as Air Corsica, but direct international
flights are few and far between
EasyJet flies from London Gatwick
once a week (Sundays) from May to
September only.

EasyJet also flies weekly in summer

from Gatwick to Bastia Poretta airport
(BIA; www.bastia.aeroport.fr), convenient for
Cap Corse, St-Florent and eastern Corsica. Figari Sud Corse airport (FSC; www
.figari.aeroport.fr), the handiest landing point
for access to Porto-Vecchio, Bonifacio
and Propriano in southern Corsica, has
daily flights from mainland France, plus
charter flights in summer from other
European countries. Calvi Ste-Catherine airport (CLY; www.calvi.aeroport.fr) is
served mainly by charter flights, as well

THINGS CHANGE...
The information in this chapter is
particularly vulnerable to change. Check
directly with the airline or a travel agent
to make sure you understand how a fare
(and ticket you may buy) works and be
aware of the security requirements for
international travel. Shop carefully. The
details given in this chapter should be
regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful, up-to-date
research.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

ONLINE TICKETS

site you can bid for a ticket online.

Skyscanner (www.skyscanner.net)
Travelocity (www.travelocity.com)

as domestic flights from French mainland airports (Paris, Marseille, Lyon and
Nice).

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Driving from the UK, the most direct
route to Corsica begins via the Channel
Tunnel on Eurotunnel (%08705 35 35 35;
www.eurotunnel.com), which has at least 10
crossings a day between Folkestone and
Calais (from 53 one way, 35 minutes),
then across France on the autoroutes
to Nice, where you can catch a ferry to
Ajaccio, Calvi or Bastia (total 1650km,
19 hours of driving).
BRINGING YOUR OWN VEHICLE

A right-hand drive vehicle brought to

France from the UK or Ireland is supposed to have deflectors fixed to the
headlights to avoid dazzling oncoming
trac. By law, all vehicles in France
must carry a reflective warning triangle
and hi-visibility waistcoats, to be used
in the event of a breakdown or accident.
Recommended accessories include a
first-aid kit, spare bulb kit and fire extinguisher. If your vehicle does not have
modern EU-style number plates, it must
have a GB sticker clearly displayed at
the rear.

267

DRIVING LICENCES & DOCUMENTATION

By law, motorists (driving their own car

or a rented vehicle) need to carry a national ID card or passport; a valid driving
permit or licence (permis de conduire);
car ownership papers, known as a carte
grise (grey card); and proof of insurance
(the carte verte or green card). If youre
stopped by the police and dont have one
or more of these documents, you risk a
hefty on-the-spot fine. Never leave your
car ownership or insurance papers in the
vehicle.
If youre involved in a minor trac
incident with no injuries, the easiest
way for drivers to sort things out with
their insurance companies is to fill out a
Constat Amiable dAccident Automobile
(jointly agreed accident report), known
in English as a European Accident Statement. Make sure the report includes any
details that will help you prove that the
accident was not your fault, if you feel
that the other party was in the wrong. If
problems arise, alert the police.
In the UK, the RAC (%08705 722 722;
www.rac.co.uk) or the AA (%0870 600 0371;
www.theaa.com) can give you more advice.

SEA
Corsica has six ferry ports serving the
French and Italian mainland: Bastia,
le Rousse, Calvi, Ajaccio, Propriano
and Porto-Vecchio. The island can be
reached from the ports of Nice, Marseille
and Toulon in France; and from Genoa,
Livorno and Savona in Italy. Ferries also
link Bonifacio in Corsica with the Italian
island of Sardinia.
Advance reservations are essential in
high season, especially for motorists planning to take a vehicle. Students under
27, seniors aged over 60 and families get
reduced rates with most ferry companies;
children aged four to 12 years usually pay

TRANSPORT

Cheap Flights (www.cheapflights.com)

Ebookers (www.ebookers.com)
Expedia (www.expedia.com)
Kayak (www.kayak.com)
Last Minute (www.lastminute.com)
Orbitz (www.orbitz.com)
Priceline (wwwpriceline.com) With this US-based

A R R I VA L & D E PA R T U R E

TRANSPORT

268

A R R I VA L & D E PA R T U R E

50% or two-thirds of an adult fare, and

children aged under four sail for free.
Most companies also oers packages of,
for example, car plus two adults or car
plus two adults and two children. Taking a
bicycle on board costs around 10 return.
FROM MAINLAND FRANCE

In high season, Socit Nationale Corse

Mditerrane (SNCM; %in France 08 91 70 18 01,
in Italy 02 66 117 104, in the UK 020 7491 49 68; www
.sncm.fr) operates speedy navires grande

vitesse (NGVs) from Nice to le Rousse

(three hours) and Ajaccio (four hours).
Normal ferries run from Marseille to
Ajaccio (8 hours), Bastia (10 hours),
le Rousse (10 hours), Porto-Vecchio
(13 hours) and Propriano (9 hours).
In winter, services are reduced to just a
handful of weekly sailings to/from Nice
and Marseille.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Corsica Ferries (%08 25 09 50 95; www

.corsicaferries.com) runs normal ferries from
Nice to Ajaccio (6 hours), Bastia (5
hours), Calvi (5 hours) and le Rousse
(5 hours), and from Toulon to Ajaccio
(5 hours), Bastia and, less frequently,
le Rousse.
La Mridionale (%08 10 20 13 20; www
.lameridionale.fr) has overnight sailings from
Marseille to Ajaccio, Bastia and Propriano (all 12 hours).
Expect to pay around 380 return for
a car and two passengers via NGV from
Nice to Ajaccio in July or August.
FROM MAINLAND ITALY

Between April and September, ferries

operated by Corsica Ferries and Moby
Lines link Corsica with the Italian mainland ports of Genoa, Livorno, Savona
and Piombino.

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel
is the fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as
a global benefit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on
global warming.

FLYING & CLIMATE CHANGE

Pretty much every form of motor travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced
climate change) but planes are far and away the worst oenders, not just because of
the sheer distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases
high into the atmosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight
between Europe and the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average
households gas and electricity consumption over a whole year.
CARBON OFFSET SCHEMES
Climatecare.org and other websites use carbon calculators that allow jetsetters to oset
the greenhouse gases they are responsible for with contributions to energy-saving
projects and other climate-friendly initiatives in the developing world including projects
in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan and Uganda.
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the
travel industry, supports the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely
Planet offsets all of its staff and author travel.
For more information check out our website: lonelyplanet.com.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

GET TING AROUND

269

GETTING AROUND

0586 88 13 80, in Savona, Italy 019 215 62 47; www

.corsicaferries.com) runs to Bastia from

By far the best way to get around Corsica

is by car, whether hired or brought from
home. Bus services, especially and paradoxically during the tourist season, are
lean (most are geared to getting children
and workers between home and school
or the nearest town). The train is an attractive, though limited, option, running
through stunning countryside between
Bastia and Ajaccio, with a branch route
to Calvi. For the superfit, Corsicas littletravelled, twisting, climbing roads make
for hugely satisfying, if gruelling, cycling.

Livorno (four hours, or 2 hours by

high-speed ferry), Savona (six hours)
and Piombino (1 hours by high-speed
ferry). In high summer, it also has a
less-frequent service from Savona to le
Rousse (six hours, June to midAugust) and Calvi (six hours, mid-June
to August).
Moby Lines (%in Corsica 04 95 34 84 94, in
Genoa, Italy 010 254 15 13, in Livorno, Italy 0565 93 61;
www.moby.it) runs seasonal ferry services

(mid-April to September) to Bastia from

Genoa (4 hours) and Livorno (four
hours).
Fares from mainland Italy are lower
than from mainland France. For a small
car and two passengers travelling from
Genoa to Bastia in July and August, the
return fare is around 175.
FROM SARDINIA

Many holidaymakers, especially from

Italy, combine a driving holiday with a
visit to the neighbouring Italian island of
Sardinia.
The crossing between Bonifacio and
Sardinias Santa Teresa di Gallura takes
about one hour. Saremar (Sardegna Regionale
Marittima; %in Corsica 04 95 73 00 96, in Sardinia 0565
90 89 33; www.saremar.it, in Italian), Sardinias

public ferry line, makes three sailings

daily, in conjunction with Corsica Ferries, from April to September. Fares are
around 70 return for two adults and a
small car in high season. Moby Lines
(%04 95 34 84 94; www.moby.it) also serves this
route.
La Mridionale (%08 10 20 13 20; www
.lameridionale.fr) runs ferries year-round
between Porto Torres (Sardinia) and
Propriano (four hours).

BICYCLE
Corsica, with its dramatic mountain
passes and stunning coast, is superb
cycling terrain for experienced cyclists,
though the summer heat makes cycling
in July and August out of bonds for all
except true masochists.
By law, bicycles must have two functioning brakes, a bell, a red reflector on
the back and yellow reflectors on the
pedals. After sunset and when visibility is
poor, road cyclists must turn on a white
light in front and a red one at the rear.
Marked cycling lanes (on roads) or trails
(for mountain bikers) are practically
nonexistent, except for a kilometre or
two in Bastia and Ajaccio. Cycling in the
Parc Rgional Naturel de la Corse is not
forbidden, but there are few trails suitable for cyclists and youll need a sturdy
mountain bike.
For information on travelling by train
with your bike, see p274.
HIRE

Bike hire is available in the main seaside

cities, but if youre going to be doing
extensive cycling, consider bringing your
own wheels. Bike shops are thin on the

TRANSPORT

Between April and October, Corsica

Ferries (%in France 08 25 09 50 95, in Livorno, Italy

TRANSPORT

270

GET TING AROUND

ground, so its essential to carry spare

parts. Mountain-bike (vlo tout-terrain;
VTT) hire is widespread and costs
around 15 to 20 per day. Most outlets
require a deposit (cash, signed travellers
cheques or credit card) of anything from
50 to 300.

BUS
Corsicas major towns and many of the
little ones in between are linked by bus,
as are the airports of Ajaccio and Bastia
with town centres. In more-remote areas
services are scarce or nonexistent. The
unocial Corsica Bus (www.corsicabus.org)
website aggregates timetable information
for most of the bus services on the island.
Bus services are geared to local inhabitants rather than tourists, meaning that
many services are less frequent during
the height of the tourist season when
schoolchildren are on holiday. In July
and August there is often only one departure a day and no departure at all on
Sunday and public holidays. Secondary
routes often only have service on alternate days or once or twice a week. Many
passenger routes year-round are combined with school and/or postal services.
By contrast, there is a trio of summer-only bus services that manage to
sustain themselves precisely because of
the tourist trade. Between July and midSeptember Autocars Mordiconi runs
one bus daily along the spectacular route
between Porto and Corte, via visa and
Calacuccia. Similarly, in July and August
Transports Santini has a twice-daily run,
Monday to Saturday, from le Rousse
and Bastia to St-Florent, while Corsicar
runs between Calvi and the fascinating
coastal hamlet of Galria.
Autocars (regional buses) are operated
by a range of dierent bus companies,
some of whom might have an oce at

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

the bus station (gare routire) of the

towns they serve. Often one company
sells tickets for all the bus companies
operating from the same station, although passengers, as a rule, do not
need to worry about buying tickets in
advance. You can buy your ticket on any
particular route, or leg of a route, from
the driver fares average around 15
per 100km.
The islands two main towns, Ajaccio
and Bastia, have the largest bus stations.
In smaller places, where a bus stop can
constitute a station, bus schedules are
invariably pinned up in the window of
the local tourist oce or in the nearest bar to the bus stop (if theres no
printed schedule, just ask the bar owner).
Bus stations do not have left-luggage
facilities.
Primary bus routes and bus-travel
companies include the following:
Alta Rocca Voyages Ricci (%04 95 51 08
19) AjaccioProprianoSartneLevieZonzaBavella
Autocars Ceccaldi (%04 95 21 38 06)
AjaccioSagonevisa
Autocars Cortenais (%04 95 46 02 12) Bastia
Corte; CorteAlria
Autocars Mordiconi (%04 95 48 00 04; www
.hotel-des-touristes.com) CorteCalacucciavisaPorto
Corsicar (%04 95 65 11 35; www.corsicar.com, in
French) Bastiale RoussePonte LecciaCalvi
Eurocorse Voyages (%04 95 21 06 30; www
.eurocorse.com) AjaccioCorteBastia; Ajaccio
ProprianoSartnePorto-Vecchio and Ajaccio
ProprianoSartneBonifacio; Porto-VecchioBonifacio;
AjaccioSartneZonza
Rapides Bleus (%04 95 31 03 79; www.kallis
tour.com) BastiaPorto-Vecchio
Transports Santini (%04 95 37 04 01) Bastia
St-Florent, le RousseSt-Florent

See the Transport sections of the respective regional chapters for more
information.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

GET TING AROUND

DISTANCE CHART (KM)

Bastia

271

Note: Distances between destinations are approximate

154

TRANSPORT

136

Calvi

176

92

240

Corte

84

70

148

92

Figari

132

166

22

240

le Rousse

183

69

199

24

72

216

Macinaggio

192

39

209

132

109

205

108

Porticcio

17

155

134

161

85

126

185

Porto

82

134

220

81

86

199

100

174

85

Porto-Vecchio

164

142

28

212

121

23

193

182

125

220

Propriano

73

191

67

236

138

59

223

230

67

140

Sartne

84

178

54

262

141

46

210

217

80

154

64

13

St-Florent

176

23

190

70

93

186

46

62

178

146

154

202

189

Solenzara

131

103

67

156

80

64

152

142

125

174

41

83

82

t
or

en

ne

no

rt
Sa

io
ch

ria
op

-F
l
St

rto

114

Po

Pr

rto

76

-V
ec

cc

gi

Po

rti
Po

ag
in
ac

io

194

se

ri

us

ga

To really enjoy Corsica, we strongly

recommend that you hire a vehicle. No
other form of transport allows you to
explore the islands secret backwaters
and enjoy as much freedom as a set
of motorised wheels. There are some
gorgeous runs, cruising along the islands beautiful, dramatic roads the
D81 linking Calvi and Porto, the D84
between Porto and Francardo (via
visa, the Fort dAtone and the Scala
di Santa Regina), the D69 from just
below Vivario to Ghisoni, and the D80
along the dramatic Cap Corse coast
between Centuri and Nonza are but a
sample of the memorable drives you can
undertake.
Exhilarating views aside, motoring
around Corsica can be fairly hair-raising
on occasion. Roads are narrow; hairpin
bends (lacets) are tortuous and often
blind; and rocky outcrops often prevent

Ro

te

vi

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

le

Fi

Co
r

cio

Ca
l

fa

144

Bo

ni

sti

170

Ba

Aj
a

cc

io

Bonifacio

you spotting oncoming trac (or the

menagerie of livestock that wanders
freely over mountain roads) until its
bang on top of you, or youre on top
of it. Use your horn to announce your
presence. Drops at the side of the road
may be sheer and barriers are a luxury.
Visitors tend to drive timidly; the locals with a panache that verges on the
irresponsible.
Corsica has no motorway (autoroute).
The main roads are called routes nationales, such as the N198, which skirts the
flat eastern coast from Bastia to Bonifacio, or the N193, running through the
dramatic relief between Bastia, Corte
and Ajaccio. Routes dpartementales,
whose names begin with the letter D, are
tertiary local roads, many of them potholed and far from silky smooth. Routes
communales, whose names begin with
the letter C (or nothing at all), are rural
roads best suited to o-road vehicles and
mountain bikes.

272

GET TING AROUND

TRANSPORT

Michelins Corse-du-Sud, Haute-Corse

map 345 (scale 1:150,000) is reliable and
invaluable for getting around.
FUEL

Petrol (essence), also called carburant

(fuel), costs around 1.30 per litre (unleaded, 95 or 98 octane). Outside main
towns, petrol stations are few and far
between so keep an eye on the fuel gauge.
HIRE

You can rent a car when you arrive in

Corsica, be it at an airport or in town.
Most companies require the driver to
be at least 21 years old (23 for some categories of car) and to have had a driving
licence for at least one year.
Although multinational rental agencies such as Avis, Budget, Hertz and
Europcar (Europes largest) can be
expensive for on-the-spot rental, their
prepaid promotional rates are usually
more reasonable. Fly-drive deals oered
by Avis and Europcar are also worth
looking into. All major firms have a desk
at the airports in Corsica.
Aggregator websites such as Holiday
Autos (www.holidayautos.co.uk) and Autoescape (www.autoescape.com) compare prices
from a range of companies to help you
find the cheapest deal. Expect to pay
around 230 to 340 per week for a
small car.
Most companies require a credit card,
primarily so that you can leave a deposit
(caution). Theyll probably ask you to
leave a signed credit card slip without
a sum written on it as a deposit. If you
dont like this arrangement, ask them
to make out two credit-card slips: one
for the sum of the rental, the other for
the sum of the excess. Make sure to have
the latter destroyed when you return
the car.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Insurance (assurance) for damage

or injury you cause to other people is
mandatory, but collision damage waivers
vary. If youre in an accident where you
are at fault, or the car is damaged and the
party at fault is unknown (as, for example, if someone dents your car while its
parked), or the car is stolen, the franchise
(excess/deductible) is the amount you
are liable for before the policy kicks in.
When signing the rental agreement,
you can agree to pay an extra daily fee
(anything from to 11 to 16 per day) to
reduce the excess (usually 600 to 800
depending on the vehicle size) to either
zero or a minimal amount.
The packet of documents you get
when hiring a car includes a 24-hour
number to call in case of breakdown, and
a European Accident Statement. Check
how many free kilometres are in the
deal youre oered; kilomtrage illimit
(unlimited mileage) means you can drive
to your hearts content.
To rent a scooter or moto (motorcycle), you will probably also have to leave
a deposit (of several hundred euro),
which you forfeit (up to the value of the
damage) if youre in an accident and its
your fault. Since insurance companies
wont cover theft, youll also lose the
deposit if the bike is stolen. Expect to pay
about 60/350 per day/week for a 125cc
motorcycle. Rates usually include helmet
hire.
Some of the major operators in
Corsica:
ADA (www.ada.fr, in French)
Avis (www.avis.co.uk)
Budget (www.budget.co.uk)
Europcar (www.europcar.co.uk)
Hertz (www.hertz-en-corse.com)
National-Citer (www.corse-auto-rent.fr)
Rent a Car (www.rent-car-corsica.com, in French)
Sixt (www.sixt.co.uk/holiaycars)

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

PARKING

273

SPEED LIMITS
Urban areas
Single
carriageway
Dual
carriageway

50km/h
90km/h
(80km/h in rain)
110km/h
(100km/h in rain)

licence is required to ride a scooter with

an engine capacity of 50cc or less.

ROAD RULES

In Corsica, as throughout Continental

Europe, people drive on the right side of
the road and overtake on the left. Unless
otherwise indicated, you must give way
to cars coming from the right. North
American drivers should remember that
turning right on a red light is illegal.
The speed limit in built-up areas is
50km/h. On intercity roads you must slow
to 50km/h the moment you pass a white
sign with red borders on which a placename is written in black or blue letters.
This limit remains in force until you arrive
at the other side of the town or village,
where youll pass an identical sign with a
red diagonal bar across the name, indicating that youre leaving the built-up area.
Outside towns and villages, speed limits are 90km/h (80km/h if its raining) on
single-carriageway N and D roads and
110km/h (100km/h if its raining) on the
few stretches of four-lane highway. This
said, youre more likely in Corsica to fall
short of the speed limit than to exceed it.
French law is tough on drunk drivers and
police conduct random breathalyser tests
to weed out drivers whose blood-alcohol
concentration (BAC) is over 0.05% (0.50g
per litre of blood) two glasses of wine for a
75kg adult. Licences can be suspended.
Helmets (casques) are compulsory for
motorcyclists and moped riders. Bikes
of more than 125cc must have their
headlights on during the day. No special

TAXI
All Corsican towns are small enough to
get around on foot. Ajaccio and Bastia
both have local bus services. Elsewhere,
you may find yourself dependent to
some degree on taxis.
Taxis in Corsica have a Taxi sign on the
roof; the cars can be any colour. Look for
phone numbers of taxi companies in the
Transport sections of individual towns.

TRAIN
Travelling by train in Corsica a fun experience in its own right is much more
than simply a means of getting from A
to B. Dubbed U trinighellu (literally the
rattler), the 110-seat railcars (also known
as michelines) trundle along a remarkable railway line constructed in the 1880s
and 1890s. With 38 tunnels (the longest
is 4km), 12 bridges and 34 viaducts (one
designed by Gustave Eiel, no less), it represents one of the great triumphs of human ingenuity over topography and ranks
among the worlds great scenic railways.
In 2007 the old michelines began to be replaced on the AjaccioCorteBastia route
by modern AMG 800 diesel units with
improved wheelchair access and much
greater speed and comfort, which, along
with track improvements, will eventually
reduce the AjaccioBastia journey time
from four hours to less than three hours.

TRANSPORT

Corsican towns are small by any standard

and were not designed with cars in mind,
so parking can be frustrating. On town
maps within destination chapters, we
indicate public parking, usually paying,
with a small P. Dfense de stationner
means No Parking and youd be wise to
respect the injunction; fines can be harsh.

GET TING AROUND

274

GET TING AROUND

TRANSPORT

Corsicas two lines are operated by

Chemins de Fer de la Corse (CFC; %in
Bastia 04 95 32 80 61, in Corte 04 95 46 00 97, in Ajaccio
04 95 23 11 03, in Calvi 04 95 65 00 61, in le Rousse 04
95 60 00 50; www.ter-sncf.com/corse).

The main, northsouth line runs between Bastia and Ajaccio. From the Ponte
Leccia junction between Bastia and Corte,
a spur runs to the Balagne towns of le
Rousse and Calvi. There was once a third
line, connecting Bastia and Porto-Vecchio
along the flat east coast of the island but it
was badly damaged by German bombing
raids in 1943. Theres talk of restoring it
but no one has yet lifted a hammer.
Except on the AjaccioBastia route,
travelling by train is often slower than a
bus ride a factor not helped by the occasional wild goat that wanders on the
track. At the train station (gare), you can
get updated train timetables and information, which also feature on the website
(www.ter-sncf.com/corse). There are no
left-luggage facilities at any station.
The train routes are:
BastiaPonte LecciaCorteAjaccio
Corsicas primary northsouth rail route, with dozens
of stops in smaller stations, including Furiani, Biguglia,
Casamozza, Ponte Novu, Francardo, Venaco, Vivario,
Vizzavona and Bocognano. Trains run year-round in each
direction four times daily. It takes almost four hours to
travel the length of the line from Bastia to Ajaccio.
BastiaCasamozza Up to 13 trains daily make
the short 30-minute journey from Bastia to Casamozza,
Monday to Saturday, stopping approximately every two
minutes at every local station along the way.
BastiaPonte LecciaCalvi Corsicas east
west link, this line follows the BastiaAjaccio line south
to Ponte Leccia, then curves west towards the coast,
stopping en route in le Rousse. There are two trains
daily, both requiring a change in Ponte Leccia (around
three hours Bastia to Calvi).
le RousseCalvi Tramway de la Balagne (p59)
little two-car trains that shuttle back and forth up to nine
times daily from mid-April to mid-October along the

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

spectacular coastline between Calvi and le Rousse. With

15 intermediate stops, including Lumio, SantAmbrogio,
Algajola and Davia, the full journey takes around 45
minutes. Wherever you happen to be situated along the
line, a train will pass in each direction approximately once
an hour.
CLASSES & COSTS

Train fares are reasonable, averaging

around 16 per 100km; a one-way ticket
from Ajaccio to Bastia costs around 22.
Children aged under four travel for free
and those aged four to 12 years pay 50%
of the adult fare.
Cyclists can take their bicycles aboard
for a 18 fee, but there is only space for
four or five bikes on each train, and places cannot be reserved in advance.
Theres only one class and theres no
system of advance reservations.
TRAIN PASSES

Senior travellers with a one-year Carte

Snior issued by the French national rail
line, the SNCF, can use it on CFC trains to
get a 50% reduction. SNCFs Carte Famille
Nombreuse, which gives families with
three or four children aged under 18 discounts of at least 30%, is likewise valid in
Corsica. More information on both annual
travel passes is online at www.sncf.com.
The CFC also sells its own rail pass,
the Carte Zoom, valid for seven consecutive days of unlimited travel throughout
the CFC network. It costs 48 and is sold
at all staed CFC stations. None of the
major European rail passes InterRail,
Eurail, Eurorail or even the France Railpass provides unlimited free travel on
the CFC system. The major rail passes
do, however, yield a 50% discount on
CFC fares between Bastia and Ajaccio
(but not on the Tramway de Balagne
between Calvi and le Rousse).

LANGUAGE

French is Corsicas ocial and working

language and the language that Corsicans use most of the time. Corsica is
nevertheless impressively bilingual and
even trilingual. Many older Corsicans,
and even some younger ones, express
themselves quite eloquently in Corsican
(called corsu in Corsican) and even in
Italian not that the dierences between
the two are all that vast.
Spontaneous use of Corsican by the
native inhabitants has been on the decline, but it has benefited from various
forms of life support. Its now even part
of the curriculum for the primary and
secondary schools on the island. This is
a significant turnaround from the days
when signs posted in Corsican village
schools read Il est interdit de cracher par
terre et de parler corse (Spitting on the
floor and talking in Corsican are forbidden). Moreover, young people can now
study Corsican at the university in Corte.
Politicians have seen to it that Corsican
enjoys equal status with French on road
signs, although youll see that the French

will often have been edited out with a

spray of paint or bullets.
For more information on Corsican,
see the Corsican boxed text on the following page. For a more comprehensive
guide to the French language (understood and spoken around the island),
pick up a copy of Lonely Planets French
Phrasebook.

PRONUNCIATION
The pronunciation guides included with
each French phrase should help you get
your message across. Here are a few of
the letters in written French that may
cause confusion:
j
c

as the s in leisure, eg jour (day)

before e and i, as the s in sit;
before a, o and u its pronounced as
English k
as the s in sit
pronounced from the back of
the throat while constricting the
muscles to restrict the flow of air

276

L A N G UA G E P R O N U N C I AT I O N

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

LANGUAGE

CORSICAN
Hello in the Corsican language is bunghjornu (literally good day); thank you is grazie;
bread is pane; dog is cane; Best wishes! is Pace i salute! If this all sounds suspiciously
like Italian to you, youre not o the mark. The Corsican language corsu in Corsican
descended from (and is therefore related to) the Tuscan language that formed the basis
of standard Italian. If you think Corsican is a dialect of Italian, however, you might nevertheless do well to keep this view to yourself. Though Corsicans are too good-natured to
want to punish innocent foreigners for the hasty conclusions they draw, many Corsicans
are committed to the view that Corsican is not a dialect, and still less Italian itself, but a
distinct language.
Despite this, its not recommended that you make any effort to communicate with
Corsicans in Corsican. As Alexandra Jaffe says in her excellent Ideologies in Action:
Language Politics in Corsica, Corsican is the language of the Corsican heart and hearth.
French commands the domain of the formal, the authoritative, the instrumental and
intellectual. You may think you are being ingratiating if you attempt a few words of
Corsican. More likely, however, youll be perceived as patronising or condescending,
as if the person you are addressing didnt speak French perfectly well. You may be
perceived to be baiting the person you are addressing on what is in Corsica a heavily charged political issue. Finally, again Corsican being the language of the Corsican
heart and hearth, you may be perceived as intruding on personal and private space
as if, invited into a strangers living room, you proceeded immediately into their
bedroom. Another way to put it is that presuming to address a stranger in Corsican is
akin to the liberty you take in addressing a stranger in the familiar pan-Mediterranean
tu form rather than in the more respectful vous, Lei or usted form.
If you speak French or Italian, stick with that. Dedicated Corsophiles can enrol in
language courses at the Universit di Corsica Pasqual Paoli in Corte or those offered
by the association Esse (% 04 95 33 12 00) in Bastia.
n, m

where a syllable ends in a single

n or m, these letters are not

pronounced, but the vowel is given

a nasal pronunciation

BE POLITE
An important distinction is made in
French between tu and vous, which both
mean you; tu is only used when addressing people you know well, children
or animals. If youre addressing an adult
who isnt a personal friend, vous should
be used unless the person invites you to
use tu. In general, younger people insist
less on this distinction between polite and

informal (indicated here by inf), and you

will find that in many cases they use tu
from the beginning of an acquaintance.

GRAMMAR
All nouns in French are either masculine
or feminine and adjectives reflect the
gender of the noun they modify. The
feminine form of some nouns and adjectives is indicated by a silent e added to the
masculine form, as in ami and amie (the
masculine and feminine for friend); other nouns undergo more complex changes.
In the following phrases both masculine and feminine forms have been

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

L A N G UA G E ACC O M M O D AT I O N

indicated where necessary (by m and

f respectively). The gender of a noun
is often reflected by a preceding article,
eg le/un (m) and la/une (f), meaning
the/a; or one of the possessive adjectives, eg mon/ton/son (m) and ma/ta/sa
(f), meaning my/your/his, her. French
is unlike English in that the possessive
adjective agrees in number and gender
with the thing in question, eg his mother and her mother are both translated
as sa mre.

Im looking for
Je cherche
a
camping ground un camping
guest house
une pension
(de famille)
hotel
un htel
youth hostel
une auberge
de jeunesse

MAKING A RESERVATION
For phone or written requests:
To
From
Date
Id like to book
in the name of
from to
credit card ()
number
expiry date

A lattention de
De la part de
Date
Je voudrais rserver
au nom de
du au
() carte de crdit
numro de
date dexpiration de la

Please confirm
availability and
price.

Veuillez confirmer la
disponibilit et le prix.

zher shersh
un kompeeng
ewn ponsyon
(der fameeyer)
un otel
ewn oberzh
der zhernes

Where is a cheap hotel?

O est-ce quon peut
oo es kon per
trouver un htel pas cher?
troovay un otel pa shair
What is the address?
Quelle est ladresse?
kel ay ladres
Could you write it down, please?
Est-ce que vous pourriez
es ker voo pooryay
lcrire, sil vous plat?
laykreer seel voo play
Do you have any rooms available?
Est-ce que vous avez des
es ker voo zavay day
chambres libres?
shombrer leebrer
May I see it?
Est-ce que je peux voir
es ker zher per vwa
la chambre?
la shombrer
Where is the bathroom?
O est la salle de bain?
oo ay la sal der bun
Where is the toilet?
O sont les toilettes?
oo son lay twalet
How much is it ? Quel est le prix ? kel ay ler pree
per night
par nuit
par nwee
par personne
per person
par person

Id like (a)
single room

Je voudrais zher voodray

une chambre ewn shombrer a
un lee
un lit
double-bed
une chambre
ewn shombrer
room
avec un grand
avek un gron
lit
lee
twin room
une chambre
ewn shombrer
(with two beds) avec des lits
avek day lee
jumeaux
zhewmo
room with
une chambre
ewn shombrer
a bathroom
avec une salle
avek ewn sal
der bun
de bain
to share a dorm coucher dans
koosher don
un dortoir
zun dortwa

Im leaving today.
Je pars aujourdhui.
zher par ozhoordwee
Were leaving today.
Nous partons aujourdhui. noo parton ozhoordwee

CONVERSATION &
ESSENTIALS
Hello.
Goodbye.
Yes.
No.
Please.
Thank you.
Youre welcome.

Bonjour.
Au revoir.
Oui.
Non.
Sil vous plat.
Merci.
Je vous en prie.
De rien. (inf)

bonzhoor
o rervwa
wee
non
seel voo play
mairsee
zher voo zon pree
der reeen

LANGUAGE

ACCOMMODATION

277

278

L A N G UA G E D I R E C T I O N S

LANGUAGE

SIGNS
Chambres Libres
(Commissariat de)
Police
Complet
Entre/Sortie
Interdit
Ouvert/Ferm
Renseignements
Toilettes/WC
Femmes
Hommes
Excuse me.
Excuse-moi.
Sorry. (forgive me)
Pardon.
Whats your name?
Comment vous
appelez-vous? (pol)
Comment tu
tappelles? (inf)
My name is
Je mappelle
Where are you from?
De quel pays tes-vous?
De quel pays es-tu? (inf)
Im from
Je viens de
I like
Jaime
I dont like
Je naime pas
Just a minute.
Une minute.

Rooms Available
Police Station
Full/No Vacancies
Entrance/Exit
Prohibited
Open/Closed
Information
Toilets
Women
Men

ekskewzaymwa
pardon
kommon voo
zapaylay voo
kommon tew
tapel

at the corner
au coin
at the trac lights
aux feux

o kwun
o fer

behind
in front of
far (from)
near (to)
opposite

derrire
devant
loin (de)
prs (de)
en face de

dairryair
dervon
lwun (der)
pray (der)
on fas der

beach
castle
church
island
main square
museum
old city
quay
ruins
sea
tourist oce

la plage
le chteau
lglise
lle
la place centrale
le muse
la vieille ville
le quai
les ruines
la mer
loce de
tourisme
la tour

la plazh
ler shato
laygleez
leel
la plas sontral
ler mewzay
la vyay veel
ler kay
lay rween
la mair
lofees der
tooreesmer
la toor

tower
zher mapel
der kel payee etvoo
der kel payee aytew
zher vyen der
zhem
zher nem pa
ewn meenewt

DIRECTIONS
Where is ?
O est ?
Go straight ahead.
Continuez tout droit.
Turn left.
Tournez gauche.
Turn right.
Tournez droite.

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

oo ay
konteenway too drwa
toornay a gosh
toornay a drwat

EATING OUT
Id like , please.
Je voudrais ,
sil vous plat
That was delicious!
Ctait dlicieux!
Please bring the bill.
Apportez-moi laddition,
sil vous plat.
Im vegetarian.
Je suis
vgtarien(ne). (m/f)
Im allergic
to
dairy produce
eggs
nuts
seafood

zher voodray
seel voo play
saytay dayleesyer
aportaymwa ladeesyon
seel voo play
zher swee
vayzhaytaryun/ryen

Je suis
allergique
aux produits
laitiers
aux ufs
aux noix
aux fruits de mer

zher swee
zalairzheek
o prodwee
laytyay
o zer
o nwa
o frwee der mair

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

L A N G UA G E H E A LT H

HEALTH
Im ill.
Je suis malade.
It hurts here.
Jai une douleur ici.

zher swee malad

zhay ewn dooler eesee
Je suis
asthmatique
diabtique
pileptique

zher swee
asmateek
deeabayteek
aypeelepteek

Im allergic
to
antibiotics
aspirin
bees
penicillin

Je suis
zher swee
allergique
zalairzheek
aux antibiotiques o zonteebyoteek
laspirine
a laspeereen
aux abeilles
o zabayyer
la
a la
pnicilline
payneeseeleen

antiseptic
aspirin
condoms
contraceptive
diarrhoea
medicine
nausea
sunblock cream
tampons

lantiseptique
laspirine
des prservatifs
le contraceptif
la diarrhe
le mdicament
la nause
la crme solaire
des tampons
hyginiques

lonteesepteek
laspeereen
day prayzairvateef
ler kontrasepteef
la dyaray
ler maydeekamon
la nozay
la krem solair
day tompon
eezheneek

LANGUAGE
DIFFICULTIES
Do you speak English?
Parlez-vous anglais?
parlayvoo ongglay
Does anyone here speak English?
Y a-t-il quelquun qui ee ateel kelkung kee
parle anglais?
parl ongglay
What does mean?
Que veut dire ?
ker ver deer
I understand.
Je comprends.
zher kompron
I dont understand.
Je ne comprends pas.
zher ner kompron pa

How do you say in French?

Comment est-ce quon kommon es kon
dit en franais?
dee on fronsay
Could you write it down, please?
Est-ce que vous pouvez esker voo poovay
lcrire?
laykreer
Can you show me (on the map)?
Pouvez-vous mindiquer poovayvoo mundeekay
(sur la carte)?
(sewr la kart)

NUMBERS
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1000

zro
un
deux
trois
quatre
cinq
six
sept
huit
neuf
dix
onze
douze
treize
quatorze
quinze
seize
dix-sept
dix-huit
dix-neuf
vingt
vingt et un
vingt-deux
trente
quarante
cinquante
soixante
soixante-dix
quatre-vingts
quatre-vingt-dix
cent
mille

zayro
un
der
trwa
katrer
sungk
sees
set
weet
nerf
dees
onz
dooz
trez
katorz
kunz
sez
deeset
deezweet
deeznerf
vung
vung tay un
vungder
tront
karont
sungkont
swasont
swasondees
katrervung
katrervungdees
son
meel

LANGUAGE

Im
asthmatic
diabetic
epileptic

279

280

L A N G UA G E PA P E R W O R K

PAPERWORK
name
nationality
date/place
of birth
sex/gender
passport
visa

nom
nationalit
date/place
de naissance
sexe
passeport
visa

EMERGENCIES
nom
nasyonaleetay
dat/plas
der naysons
seks
paspor
veeza

LANGUAGE

QUESTION WORDS
Who?
What?
What is it?
When?
Where?
Which?
Why?
How?

Qui?
kee
Quoi?
kwa
Quest-ce que cest? kes ker say
Quand?
kon
O?
oo
Quel(le)? (m/f) kel
Pourquoi?
poorkwa
Comment?
kommon

SHOPPING & SERVICES

Id like to buy
Je voudrais acheter
How much is it?
Cest combien?
I dont like it.
Cela ne me plat pas.
May I look at it?
Est-ce que je peux
le/la voir? (m/f)
Im just looking.
Je regarde.
Its not expensive.
Ce nest pas cher.
Its too expensive.
Cest trop cher.
Ill take it.
Je le/la prends. (m/f)

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

zher voodray ashtay

say kombyun
serla ner mer play pa

Help!
Au secours!
o skoor
Theres been an accident!
Il y a eu un accident!
eel ee a ew un akseedon
Im lost.
Je me suis gar/e. (m/f) zhe me swee zaygaray
Leave me alone!
Fichez-moi la paix!
feeshaymwa la pay
Call !
a doctor
the police

Appelez !
un mdecin
la police

more
less
smaller
bigger

plus
moins
plus petit
plus grand

plews
mwun
plew pertee
plew gron

Im looking
for
a bank
the ()
embassy
the hospital
the market
the police
the post oce

Je cherche

zhe shersh

es ker zher per

ler/la vwar

a public phone

zher rergard

a public toilet

une banque
lambassade
(de )
lhpital
le march
la police
le bureau de
poste
une cabine
tlphonique
les toilettes

ser nay pa shair

TIME & DATES

say tro shair

today
tomorrow
yesterday

zher ler/la pron

Can I pay by ? Est-ce que je peux es ker zher per

payer avec ? payyay avek
ma carte de
ma kart der
credit card
crdit
kraydee
travellers
des chques
day shek
cheques
de voyage
der vwayazh

aplay
un maydsun
la polees

What time is it?

Quelle heure est-il?
Its (eight) oclock.
Il est (huit) heures.
Its half past ()
Il est () heures
et demie.

aujourdhui
demain
hier

ewn bonk
lambasahd
(der )
lopeetal
ler marshay
la polees
ler bewro der
post
ewn kabeen
taylayfoneek
lay twalet

ozhoordwee
dermun
yair

kel er ay til
il ay (weet) er
il ay () er
ay dermee

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

L A N G UA G E T R A N S P O R T

dew matun
der lapraymeedee
dew swar

Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday

lundi
mardi
mercredi
jeudi
vendredi
samedi
dimanche

lundee
mardee
mairkrerdee
zherdee
vondrerdee
samdee
deemonsh

January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December

janvier
fvrier
mars
avril
mai
juin
juillet
aot
septembre
octobre
novembre
dcembre

zhonvyay
fayvryay
mars
avreel
may
zhwun
zhweeyay
oot
septombrer
oktobrer
novombrer
daysombrer

ROAD SIGNS
Cdez la Priorit
Danger
Dfense de Stationner
Entre
Interdiction de Doubler
Page
Ralentissez
Sens Interdit
Sens Unique
Sortie
the first
the last
platform
number
ticket oce
timetable
train station

Give Way
Danger
No Parking
Entrance
No Overtaking
Toll
Slow Down
No Entry
One-Way
Exit

le premier (m)
la premire (f)
le dernier (m)
la dernire (f)
le numro
de quai
le guichet
lhoraire
la gare

ler prermyay
la prermyair
ler dairnyay
la dairnyair
ler newmayro
der kay
ler geeshay
lorair
la gar

PRIVATE TRANSPORT

TRANSPORT
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
What time does quelle heure
leave/arrive? part/arrive ?
boat
le bateau
bus
le bus
plane
lavion
train
le train
Id like a
ticket.
1st class
2nd class
one-way
return

a kel er
par/areev
ler bato
ler bews
lavyon
ler trun

Je voudrais
zher voodray
un billet
un beeyay
de premire classe der premyair klas
de deuxime classe der derzyem klas
simple
sumpler
aller et retour
alay ay rertoor

I want to go to
Je voudrais aller zher voodray alay a
The train has been delayed.
Le train est en retard. ler trun ay ton rertar
The train has been cancelled.
Le train a t annul.
ler trun a aytay anewlay

Id like to hire
a/an
4WD
bicycle
car
motorbike

Je voudrais
zher voodray
louer
looway
un quatre-quatre un katkat
un vlo
un vaylo
une voiture
ewn vwatewr
une moto
ewn moto

Is this the road to ?

C'est la route pour ?
Wheres a service station?
O est-ce qu'il y a
une station-service?
Please fill it up.
Le plein, sil vous plat.
Id like litres.
Je voudrais litres.
(How long) Can I park here?
(Combien de temps)
Est-ce que je peux
stationner ici?
petrol/gas
diesel

essence
diesel

say la root poor

oo es keel ee a
ewn stasyonservees
ler plun seel voo play
zher voodray leetrer
(kombyun der ton)
es ker zher per
stasyonay eesee?
aysons
dyayzel

LANGUAGE

in the morning du matin

in the afternoon de laprs-midi
in the evening
du soir

281

LANGUAGE

282

L A N G UA G E T R AV E L W I T H C H I L D R E N

I need a mechanic.
Jai besoin dun
zhay berzwun dun
mcanicien.
maykaneesyun
The car/motorbike has broken down (at )
La voiture/moto est
la vwatewr/moto ay
tombe en panne ( ) tombay on pan (a )
The car/motorbike wont start.
La voiture/moto ne veut la vwatewr/moto ner ver
pas dmarrer.
pa daymaray
I have a flat tyre.
Mon pneu est plat.
mom pner ay ta pla
Ive run out of petrol.
Je suis en panne dessence. zher swee zon pan daysons
I had an accident.
J'ai eu un accident.
zhay ew un akseedon

TRAVEL WITH
CHILDREN
Is there ?
Y a-t-il ?
ee ateel
I need
Jai besoin de
zhay berzwun der
a car baby seat un sige-enfant un syezhonfon
a child-minding une garderie
ewn gardree
service
a childrens menu un menu pour
un mernew
enfant
poor onfon
disposable
couches-culottes kooshkewlot
nappies/diapers
an (Englishune baby-sitter ewn babeeseeter
speaking)
(qui parle anglais) (kee parl ongglay)
babysitter
infant milk
lait maternis
lay materneezay
formula
a highchair
une chaise haute ewn shayz ot
a potty
un pot de bb un po der baybay
a stroller
une poussette
ewn pooset

Also available from Lonely Planet:

French Phrasebook

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Do you mind if I breastfeed here?

Je peux allaiter mon
zher per alaytay mon
bb ici?
baybay eesee
Are children allowed?
Les enfants sont permis? lay zonfon son pairmee

GLOSSARY

This glossary is a list of Corsican (C)

and French (F) terms you may come
across in Corsica. For terms for food and
drinks, and other culinary vocabulary,
see p238.
aiguille (F) rock mass or mountain
peak shaped like a needle
anse (F) cove
AOC Appellation dOrigine
Contrle; mark of quality for food and
wines
auberge (F) inn
baie (F) bay
barrage (F) dam
bergerie (F) shepherds hut
bocca (C) mountain pass
bouches (F) straits
buvettes drinks stands
calanque (F) rocky inlet
cap (F) cape
capu (C) see cap; also spelt capo
cascade (F) waterfall
castellu (C) castle
cave (F) cellar

chambres dhtes (F) B&B

chapelle (F) chapel
clos (F) vineyard
cochon coureur (F) free-ranging
pig
col (F) mountain pass
commune (F) smallest unit of local
government in rural areas
dfil (F) gorge, narrow pass
dpartement (F) administration division of France
dsert (F) desert
glise (F) church
tang (F) lake, pond
fiera (C) fair, festival
foire (F) see fiera
fort (F) forest
FLNC Front de Libration Nationale
de la Corse; Corsican National Liberation Front
gte (F) see gte rural
gte dtape (F) walkers lodge
gte rural (F) self-contained cottage

284

G L O S S A RY

golfe (F) bay, gulf

goulet (F) narrows; bottleneck at
entrance to a harbour
le (F) isle, island
lac (F) lake

GLOSSARY

mairie (F) town hall

maison (F) oce, house
maquis (F) scrub vegetation
march (F) market
ptanque (F) form of boules
phare (F) lighthouse
place (F) square
plage (F) beach
PNRC Parc Naturel Rgional de la
Corse; Corsican Nature Reserve
port de plaisance (F) marina
pozzi (C) pits
pozzines (C) small waterholes linked
together by rivulets
prfecture (F) departmental capital
pointe (F) point, headland
punta (C) see pointe
randonne (F) walk
sanglier (C) wild boar
tafoni (C) cavities
torre (C) circular monument
tour (F) tower
valle (F) valley
vasque (F) natural pool

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BEHIND THE SCENES

285

BEHIND THE SCENES

THIS BOOK
This is the 5th edition of Corsica. JeanBernard Carillet and Miles Roddis wrote
the previous edition. This guidebook
was commissioned in Lonely Planets
London oce, and produced by the
following:
Commissioning Editors Paula Hardy,
Caroline Sieg
Coordinating Editors Justin Flynn,
Susan Paterson, Laura Stansfeld
Coordinating Cartographer Amanda
Sierp
Coordinating Layout Designer Aomi
Hongo
Managing Editor Imogen Bannister

Managing Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Herman So

Managing Layout Designer Sally
Darmody
Assisting Editors Kim Hutchins, Sally
OBrien, Martine Power, Jeanette Wall
Assisting Cartographer Tadhgh Knaggs
Cover Research Marika Mercer, lonely
planetimages.com
Internal Image Research Sabrina Dalbesio, lonelyplanetimages.com
Language Content Robyn Loughnane
Project Managers Rachel Imeson, Glenn
van der Knij
Thanks to Mark Adams, Lucy Birchley, Yvonne Bischofberger, Janine
Eberle, Owen Eszeki, Mark Germanchis,
Michelle Glynn, Imogen Hall, Lauren

THE LONELY PLANET STORY

Fresh from an epic journey across Europe, Asia and Australia in 1972, Tony and Maureen
Wheeler sat at their kitchen table stapling together notes. The first Lonely Planet
guidebook, Across Asia on the Cheap, was born.
Travellers snapped up the guides. Inspired by their success, the Wheelers began
publishing books to Southeast Asia, India and beyond. Demand was prodigious,
and the Wheelers expanded the business rapidly to keep up. Over the years,
Lonely Planet extended its coverage to every country and into the virtual world via
lonelyplanet.com and the Thorn Tree message board.
As Lonely Planet became a globally loved brand, Tony and Maureen received
several offers for the company. But it wasnt until 2007 that they found a partner
whom they trusted to remain true to the companys principles of travelling widely,
treading lightly and giving sustainably. In October of that year, BBC Worldwide
acquired a 75% share in the company, pledging to uphold Lonely Planets
commitment to independent travel, trustworthy advice and editorial independence.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with over 500 staff
members and 300 authors. Tony and Maureen are still actively involved with Lonely Planet.
Theyre travelling more often than ever, and theyre devoting their spare time to charitable
projects. And the company is still driven by the philosophy of Across Asia on the Cheap: All
youve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!

13-bts-cor5.indd 285

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286

BEHIND THE SCENES

Hunt, Laura Jane, Nic Lehman, Ali Lemer, John Mazzocchi, Annelies Mertens,
Lucy Monie, Wayne Murphy, Darren
OConnell, Trent Paton, Julie Sheridan,
Saralinda Turner

THANKS

BEHIND THE SCENES

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET

A huge thanks to everyone who helped

out and made this trip an enlightenment,
including Marie, Emilie, Paul-Andr,
Franois and Emmanuelle, as well as
all the wonderful Corsican people who
helped along the way.
Miles and Neil deserve a pat on their
back for having borne with me and my
numerous queries thanks guys for your
sense of humour and the meal we had in
Bastia.
Laura, editor extraordinaire, deserves
huge thanks for her top-notch editing
and invaluable insight. The carto team,
including Mandy Sierp, also helped
shape a great guide. Im also grateful to
Caroline, Paula and Imogen for their
constant support throughout this challenging adventure.
At home, a phenomenal gros bisou to
my daughter Eva, who gives meaning

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

and direction to my otherwise roving

life.
MILES RODDIS

Ingrid was, as always, great company

and hugely supportive not least with
her impressive Lewis Hamilton impersonations around Corsicas tight
bends and ribbon-narrow country
roads. Sue and Brian Swift were fun
travelling companions and shared some
great walks with us. Claire Hall of Direct Corsica (www.directcorsica.com)
shared some of her insider knowledge
of the island, while reader and fellow
cyclist Stephen Reynolds sent an exceptionally helpful updating email (always
trust a man on a bike!). The lunch JeanBernard, Neil and I shared on a terrace
in Bastia stays with me as a reminder
of two congenial, experienced, enthusiastic, virtual travelling companions.
Tourist-oce sta were almost without
exception a joy to deal with and well
informed. Thank you, once again, to
Anne-Marie Piazzoli (Calvi), Davia
Boutillat (le Rousse), Nathalie (Piana),
Cline Bonzom and Tiina (Porto),
Claire Zajpt (Cargse), and both PierreAndr and Michle (Ajaccio). My chap-

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK

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13-bts-cor5.indd 286

26/10/2009 12:10:27 PM

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

BEHIND THE SCENES

287

ters are all for Laila, hoping that shell

come to love natures grandeur and
wildness as much as her Yayo does.
NEIL WILSON

Many thanks to the helpful and enthusiastic sta at tourist oces throughout
Corsica, to Carol Downie for company
during the restaurant research, and to
Ian Jones for his wealth of knowledge
about the island. Also, many thanks to
coauthors JB and Miles.

OUR READERS
Many thanks to the travellers who used
the last edition and wrote to us with
helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:
Rahul Butta, Alain Chaumont, Jakob
Eder, Katrin Flatscher, Neil Fox, Naomi
Fox, Mlina Mailhot, Francesca Manta,
Margaret McPhate, Tomas Moehler,
Christian Oberdanner, Lidia Pavlin, Motel Ta Kladia, Rachel Tucker

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

13-bts-cor5.indd 287

BEHIND THE SCENES

Many thanks to the following for the use

of their content:
GR, GRP, their waymarkings (white/
red and yellow/red), and PR are the
Fdration Franaise de la Randonne
Pdestres registered trademarks. All
rights reserved www.randonnee.fr
All images are the copyright of the
photographers unless otherwise indicated. Many of the images in this guide
are available for licensing from Lonely
Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages
.com.

26/10/2009 12:10:27 PM

288

N OT E S

15-notes-cor5.indd 288

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

16/10/2009 10:31:29 AM

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

15-notes-cor5.indd 289

N OT E S

289

16/10/2009 10:31:32 AM

290

I N D E X (A - B )

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

INDEX
A
A Cupulatta 106
accommodation 9, 240-57, see
also individual locations
B&Bs 243
Bastia 241-3
Bonifacio 250-1
Calvi 243-4
Cap Corse 241-2
central mountains 176,
255-7
Costa Serena 255
Cte des Nacres 255
Golfe dAjaccio 248-9
Golfe de Porto 246-7
Golfe de Sagone 247-8
le Rousse 244-5
internet resources 9, 240, 242
La Balagne 245-6
La Castagniccia 254-5
La Costa Verde 253-4
LAlta Rocca 252-3
language 277
Le Nebbio 242-3
Le Sartenais 249-50
Porto Pollo 249
Porto-Vecchio 251
price guide 8, 241
Propriano 249
seasons 241
activities 8, 20-3, 206-19,
20, 21, 22, 23, see also
birdwatching, boat trips,
canyoning, horse &
donkey riding, kayaking &
canoeing, parcs aventure,
snorkelling & diving,
swimming, walking

INDEX

adventure parks, see parcs

aventure
Aiguilles de Bavella 148-9
air travel 266-7
Ajaccio 100-6, 101, 6-7, 10
accommodation 248
festivals 10, 11
food 103-5
shopping 105
sights 100-3
000 MAP PAGES
000 PHOTOGRAPH PAGES

tourist offices 100

travel to/from 105
travel within 106
Alando 181-2
Albertacce 179, 181
Alria 163
Algajola 71, 244
Alta Rocca 31, 114-15, 143-9,
252-3, 7, 8

animals 93, 106, 220-2

Anse de Canella 165
Anse de Fautea 165
Anse de Favona 165
Anse de Fazzio 132
Anse de Tarco 165
Arbellara 120
archeological sites 14
Alria 163
Capula 146
Cucuruzzu 146
Filitosa 117-18, 14
Fontanaccia dolmen 126
Renaju 126
Stantari 126
architecture 12, 203

area codes, see inside front

cover
Aregno 81
Argentella 71
Arragio 142
art galleries, see galleries &
museums
Asco 180
asphodel 222
ATMs 262
Audouins gulls 222
Aullne 110

B
B&Bs 243
Baie de Piantarella 133
Balagne, La 62-3, 75-81, 245-6,
60-1, 77, 80
Baracci Natura 121
Barcaggio 46
Bastelica 108
Bastia 36-44, 34-5, 39, 13
accommodation 41, 241
emergency services 38
festivals 10, 11, 42
food 42-3

internet resources 37
shopping 43
sights 41-2
tourist offices 38
travel to/from 43-4
travel within 43-4
walking tours 38-41, 40
bathrooms 263-4
Bavella 10, 148-9, 7
beaches 24
Algajola 71, 244
Cala di lAvena 127
Calvi 66
Golfe de Pinarello 141
Golfe de Sant Amanza 132
Plage dArone 96
Plage dAsciaghju 139
Plage de Balistra 132
Plage de Bodri 74
Plage de Cala Rossa 141
Plage de Calalonga 132
Plage de Campomoro 123
Plage de Cateraggio 140
Plage de Cupabia 116
Plage de Figari 128
Plage de Kevano 128
Plage de la Folacca 139
Plage de la Tonnara 128
Plage de la Viva 107
Plage de lOstriconi 55
Plage de Maora 132
Plage de Palombaggia 139
Plage de Portigliolo 119
Plage de Roccapina 128
Plage de Rondinara 133
Plage de Saleccia 54-5
Plage de San Ciprianu 141
Plage de Sant Amanza 132
Plage de Santa Giulia 139
Plage de Taravo 116
Plage de Tra Licettu 127
Plage du Corsaire 119
Plage du Grand Sprone 132
Plage du Lido 119
Plage du Loto 54
Plage du Padulone 164
Plage du Petit Sprone 132
Plage du Ricanto 103
Punta di Benedettu 141
Solenzara 165
Tre Punti 132

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

bearded vultures 221-2

beer 235
Belgodre 80, 146
Bergeries de Grotelle 177-8
Bergeries de Tolla 183
birds 221-2
birdwatching 46, 220
boar 220
boat travel 267-9
boat trips
Bonifacio 131
Calvi 66
Cap Corse 46
Golfe dAjaccio 102
Golfe du Valinco 120
les Lavezzi 132
Plage du Loto 54
Porto-Vecchio 135
Rserve Naturelle de
Scandola 83-9
San Paulu 36
Sentier du Littoral 36
Bocca a Croce 91
Bocca di Verghju 93
Bonaparte, Napolon 102, 196
Bonifacio 114-15, 129-34, 250-1,
130, 4-5, 8, 12
books 20
Boziu, Le 181-2, 256-7, 182
Brietta 243
Brocciu 232-3
bus travel 270-1
bushfires 225-6

bushwalking, see walking

business hours 258, see also
inside front cover
Bustanico 181

Campomoro 122-4

canoeing, see kayaking &

canoeing
Canyon du Baracci 121
canyoning 22, 210-11, 23
Aiguilles de Bavella 148
Bavella 183
Canyon du Baracci 121
Valle du Niolo 180
Cap Corse 36-7, 44-50, 7, 15
Cap Pertusato 123, 131-2
Capu Rossu 95-6
Capula 146

car & motorcycle travel

267, 271-3, 271, see
also driving tours
road signs 200
safe driving 260
Carcheto 160, 254
Cargse 97-8, 247-8
Cartalavonu 143, 144
Casamaccioli 11, 180, 256, 11
Casamozza 165
Cascade de lUcelluline 156
Cascade du Voile de la Marie
184
Cascades dAtone 92-3
Cascades des Anglais 184
Castagniccia, La 154-5, 159-62,
254-5
Castellu dAraggio 142
Castinacce 94
Catastaju 164, 255
cathedrals, see churches
Cauria 126
cell phones 263
central mountains 168-84,
255-7, 170-1, 4
Centuri 48
Cervione 151, 156-7, 253
charcuterie 16, 232, 16, 18
cheese 19, 232-3
Chemin des Chtaigniers 92-3
chestnuts 234
children, travel with 24, 259,
see also beaches
parcs aventure 22, 121, 141,
144, 148-9, 166-7, 180,
184, 212-13, 24
picnics 158, 178, 184
treasure hunts 175
wildlife parks 106
Chis 166
churches 12, 13
Cathdrale St-rasme 151
Chapelle de Santa Restituta
76-7
Chapelle San Mamilianu 158

291

Chapelle SantAlessio 160

Chapelle Ste-Christine 151
glise Catholique de Rite
Grec 97
glise de San Petro dAccia
161
glise de San Michele de
Murato 57, 12
glise Latine Ste-Marie 97
glise St-Dominique 131
glise Ste-Lucie 147
glise Ste-Marguerite 160
glise Ste-Marie Majeure
129
glise St-Franois 131
glise St-Jean Baptiste 160-1
glise Sts Pierre et Paul 159
Cioti 158
citadels, see forts & towers,
Genoese towers
climate 8
climate change 268
Col dArcarotta 160, 162
Col de Bavella 10, 148-9, 7
Col de Bocca Rezza 78
Col de Cricheto 108
Col de la Battaglia 81
Col de la Croix 91
Col de la Vaccia 110
Col de Larone 166
Col de Mercujo 108
Col de Prato 161
Col de Santa Lucia 50
Col de Verghio 93
Col de Vizzavona 184
Conca dOro 55-6

consulates 260
convents, see monasteries &
convents
Corbara 78
Corniche de la Castagniccia
156
Corniche, La 45
Corsican nuthatches 222
Corso, Sampiero 190-1
Corte 169-77, 255-6, 174
Costa Serena 154-5, 162-7, 255
Costa Verde, La 151-9, 253-4

costs 8, 241, 261, see

also inside front cover
Cte des Nacres 154-5, 162-7,
255
credit cards 262
Cucuruzzu 146
culture 12-15, 200-5
customs regulations 259
cycling & mountain biking 11,
141-2, 211, 269-70

INDEX

Cala di lAvena 127

Cala Paraguan 132
Calacuccia 179, 256
Calanques, Les 94-5, 5
Calasima 179
Calenzana 77, 245
Calvese 118
Calvi 59-70, 65, 6, 13
accommodation 67, 243-4
drinking 69
festivals 10, 11
food 68-9
shopping 69-70
sights 59-68
tourist offices 59
travel to/from 70
Campana 162
Campo 248-9
Campodonico 162

INDEX (B-C)

292

INDEX (D-I)

D
D80 48
D330 156
dangers 259-60
deer 220
Delta du Fango 71
Dsert des Agriates 55
disabilities, travellers with 264
discount cards 260, 274

distilleries 164
diving, see snorkelling &
diving
Domaine de Mosconi 126
Domaine Saparale 126

donkey riding, see horse &

donkey riding
drinks 16-19, 164, 235-7, see
also wine, wineries
driving, see car & motorcycle
travel
driving licences 267
driving tours
Haut Taravo 109-10, 109
La Balagne 76-8, 80-1,
77, 80
Le Boziu 181-2, 182
Le Fiumorbu 164, 165
Le Nebbio 56-7, 57
Valle du Prunelli 107-9, 108

E
Eaux dOrezza 160
electricity 259
embassies 260

emergencies, see inside front

cover
environment 220-9
environmental issues 225-9
Erbajola 182
Erbalunga 45-6, 47, 242
tang de Diane 163
events, see festivals
visa 91-2, 93-4, 247

exchange rates, see inside

front cover
F

INDEX

fauna 93, 106, 220-2

Favallelo 182
Feliceto 246
festivals 10-11, 10, 11
food 10, 18, 148, 155, 156,
159
music 10, 11, 37, 56, 79
000 MAP PAGES
000 PHOTOGRAPH PAGES

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

religious 10, 11, 125, 180

wine 18, 37, 50
Figari 128-9
Filitosa 117-18, 14
fires 225-6
Fiumorbu, Le 164, 255, 165

flora 222-4
Fontaine Ste-Julie 49
Fontanaccia dolmen 126
food 16-19, 230-9, 260, 16,
17, 18, 19, see also produce
shops
charcuterie 16, 232, 16, 18
cheese 19, 232-3
chestnuts 234
costs 8, 261
festivals 10, 18, 148, 155,
156, 159
hazelnuts 156
internet resources 18
olive oil 16, 18, 147, 233-4
pork 93
Fort dAtone 91
Fort de Bonifatu 78
Fort de LOspdale 143-4
Fort de Tartagine-Melaja 63,
76, 245
Fort de Vizzavona 184
Fornoli 254-5
forts & towers, see also
Genoese towers
Bonifacio 129
Calvi 65-6
Corte 169-74
La Balagne 64
San Fiurenzu 52
Fozzano 120

G
Galria 71
galleries & museums 13
Galerie Saetta 72-3
Muse A Bandera 102
Muse Archologique
Jrme-Carcopino 163
Muse de Corbara 78
Muse de la Corse 169-74
Muse de lADECEC 151-6
Muse de lAlta Rocca 146
Muse Fesch 100, 13
Muse Mnmosina 164
Gavignano-Borgo 254
gay travellers 260-1
Genoese occupation 14, 189-90
Genoese towers 46
Porto 89
Tour dAgnello 46

Tour de Campomoro 122-3

Tour de Nonza 49
Tour de Santa Maria 46
Tour de Snque 50
Ghjallicu 145
Girolata 91
Golfe dAjaccio 86-7, 100-10,
248-9
Golfe de Pinarello 141, 142,
252
Golfe de Porto 83-97, 246-7, 5
Golfe de Sagone 86-7, 97-100,
247-8
Golfe de Sant Amanza 132
Golfe du Valinco 114-24
Gorges de Spelunca 92
Gorges du Manganellu 183-4
Gorges du Prunelli 108
GR20 22, 214-16, 218, 9
Guitera 110

H
Haut Taravo 109-10, 109
hazelnuts 156
helicopter tours 135

hiking, see walking

Hippodrome de Viseo 144-5
history 14, 186-99
holidays 261
horse & donkey riding 212, 20
Araggio 142
Calvi 67-8
Costa Verde 158-9
Golfe du Valinco 120-1
Porto Pollo 116-17
Porto Vecchio 140
Sartne 126-7
Sentier des Douaniers 36, 47
Soccia to Lac de Creno 99
Valle du Tavignano 175
horse racing 144-5

I
le Rousse 10, 72-5, 244-5, 73
les Finocchiarola 46
les Lavezzi 132, 7, 8
immigration 202-3
independence 197-8
insurance 261
internet access 261
internet resources 9
accommodation 9, 240, 242
activities 22
air tickets 267
Bastia 37
Cap Corse 37
central mountains 173

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Costa Serena 155

Cte des Nacres 155
food 18
Golfe dAjaccio 87
Golfe de Porto 87
La Balagne 63
La Castagniccia 155
La Costa Verde 155
Le Nebbio 37
Parc Naturel Rgional de la
Corse 63
southern Corsica 115
Isolaccio di Fiumorbu 164
itineraries 29-32

K
kayaking & canoeing 22, 210
Alria 164
Baie de Piantarella 133
Campomoro 123-4
Galria 71
Golfe de Pinarello 141
le Rousse 74
Porto Pollo 117
Propriano 121
Tizzano 127
kitesurfing 209

LOspdale 143-4, 252

Lozzi 179
Lunghignano 76
Luri 49-50

M
Macinaggio 46, 47
magazines 259
maps 155, 262
Mare a Mare 217
Mare e Monti 217-18
Marine de Ficajola 96

Rserve Naturelle des les

Cerbicale 229
Rserve Naturelle des les
Finocchiarola 228
Rserve Naturelle des Tre
Padule de Suartone 229
Nebbio, Le 10, 36-7, 50-7,
242-3, 57
newspapers 259
Nonza 48-9, 242
Notre Dame de la Serra 63, 66

marine reserves, see nature

reserves & regional parks
Mazzola 256-7
measures 259, see also inside
front cover
metric conversions, see inside
front cover

Occi 63, 70-1

Oletta 57, 243
olive oil 16, 18, 147, 233-4
Olmi-Cappella 81, 246
Omessa 175

mobile phones 263

monasteries & convents
Couvent de St Franois 100
Couvent dOrezza 159
Couvent St-Franois 147

Ortale 160
ospreys 222

money 262-3, see also inside

front cover
costs 8, 241, 261
discount cards 260, 274
Monte San Petrone 161-2
Montemaggiore 76
Moors heads 188
Morianincu, Le 157-9
Morosaglia 161
motorcycle travel, see car &
motorcycle travel
mouflon 220

mountain biking, see cycling

& mountain biking
Muna 99
Murato 57, 12

museums, see galleries &

museums
music 14, 205
festivals 10, 11, 37, 56, 79

N
natural pools, see waterfalls &
natural pools
nature reserves & regional parks
Parc Naturel Rgional de la
Corse 63, 227
Rserve Naturelle de
Biguglia 228-9
Rserve Naturelle de
Scandola 83, 88-9, 228
Rserve Naturelle des
Bouches de Bonifacio
132, 228

293

opening hours 258, see also

inside front cover

P
Paoli, Pascal 161, 193
paragliding 212
Parc de Saleccia 72
Parc Naturel Rgional de la
Corse 63, 227
parcs aventure 22, 212-13, 24
A Tyroliana 141
Asco Valle Aventure 180
Baracci Natura 121
Corsica Forest Parc
Aventure 166-7
Corsica Madness 148-9
Parc Vizzavona Aventure
184
Xtrem Sud 144
Passerelle de Rossolino 175
Patrimonio 10, 55-6
Petralonga Salvini 251
phonecards 263
Piana 95-7, 247
Pianu di Levie 146
picnics 158, 178, 184
Piedicroce 10, 159
Piedilacorte 182
Pietrapola 164
Pigna 78-80, 245
pigs 93, 220
Piscia 250
Piscia di Gallo 123, 144
Place St-Nicolas 41-2
Plage dArone 96
Plage dAsciaghju 139
Plage de Balistra 132

INDEX

La Balagne 62-3, 75-81, 245-6,

60-1, 77, 80
La Castagniccia 154-5, 159-62,
254-5
La Corniche 45
La Costa Verde 154-5, 253-4
La Porta 160-1
Lac de Capitellu 178
Lac de Creno 99
Lac de Melu 178
Lac de Tolla 108
LAlta Rocca 31, 114-15, 143-9,
252-3, 7, 8
Lama 79
language 238-9, 275-82
Le Boziu 181-2, 256-7, 182
Le Fiumorbo 164, 255, 165
Le Morianincu 157-9
Le Nebbio 10, 36-7, 50-7,
242-3, 57
Le Sartenais 114-15, 124-8,
249-50
Le Sentier Muletier 95
Lecci 142
legal matters 261-2
Les Calanques 94-5, 5
lesbian travellers 260-1
Levie 146-7, 253

INDEX (I-P)

294

I N D E X ( P- S )

INDEX

Plage de Bodri 74
Plage de Cala Rossa 141, 142-3
Plage de Calalonga 132
Plage de Campomoro 123
Plage de Cateraggio 140
Plage de Cupabia 116
Plage de Figari 128
Plage de Kevano 128
Plage de la Folacca 139
Plage de la Tonnara 128
Plage de la Viva 107
Plage de lOstriconi 55
Plage de Maora 132
Plage de Palombaggia 139, 251
Plage de Portigliolo 119
Plage de Roccapina 128
Plage de Rondinara 133
Plage de Saleccia 54-5
Plage de San Ciprianu 141
Plage de Sant Amanza 132
Plage de Santa Giulia 139
Plage de Taravo 116
Plage de Tra Licettu 127
Plage du Corsaire 119
Plage du Grand Sprone 132
Plage du Lido 119
Plage du Loto 54
Plage du Padulone 164
Plage du Petit Sprone 132
Plage du Ricanto 103
planning 4-24, 33, 58, 82, 111,
150, 168
Bastia 36-7
Bonifacio 114-15
Calvi 62-3
Cap Corse 36-7
central mountains
172-3
Costa Serena 154-5
Cte des Nacres 154-5
discount cards 260, 274
Golfe dAjaccio 86-7
Golfe de Porto 86-7
Golfe de Sagone 86-7
Golfe du Valinco 114-15
holidays 261
itineraries 29-32
La Balagne 62-3
La Castagniccia 154-5
La Costa Verde 154-5

LAlta Rocca 114-15

Le Nebbio 36-7
Le Sartenais 114-15
Porto-Vecchio 114-15
000 MAP PAGES
000 PHOTOGRAPH PAGES

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

plants 222-4
Plateau du Coscione 123,
145-6
Poggio di Venaco 183, 257

Poggio dOletta 57
Pointe de la Parata 106
polyphonic music 14
Pont de lEnfer 158
Pont de Noceta 183
Pont du Vecchio 184
Ponte Pianella 92
Ponte Zaglia 92
pools, see waterfalls & natural
pools
Porta, La 160-1
Porticcio 106-7, 248
Porto 83-90, 246-7, 88
Porto Pollo 116-18, 249
Porto-Vecchio 114-15, 134-8,
251, 136
postal services 263
Procession du Catenacciu 125
produce shops 19
Bergerie dAcciola 125
Casa Curtinese
Alimentation Ghionga 177
LOrriu 138
Ptisserie Casanova 176
Tempi Fa 122
Terra Corso 98
U Muntagnolu 43
Propriano 119-22, 249, 119
Prunelli di Fiumorbu 164, 255
Prunete 253-4
Punta di a Vacca Morta 143-5
Punta di Benedettu 141

Q
Quai Landry 65-6
Quenza 145-6, 252-3

R
radio 259
regional parks, see nature
reserves & regional parks
religion 203-4
religious festivals 10, 11, 125,
180
Renaju 126
Rserve Naturelle de Biguglia
228-9
Rserve Naturelle de Scandola
83, 88-9, 228
Rserve Naturelle des Bouches
de Bonifacio 132, 228
Rserve Naturelle des les
Cerbicale 229

Rserve Naturelle des les

Finocchiarola 228
Rserve Naturelle des Tre
Padule de Suartone 229
road rules 273
Roccapina 128
rock climbing 213, 20
Rogliano 47-8, 242
Rossi, Tino 205

safe travel 259-60

Sagone 98-9

sailing, see boat trips

San Fiurenzu 50-4, 51
San Gavinu di Fiumorbu 164
San Giovanni di Moriani 254
San Martino di Lota 45
San Nicolao 157
Santa Lucia di Moriani 157
Santa Maria di Lota 45, 241
Santa Reparata di Moriani 157
SantAndrea di Boziu 257
SantAntonino 81
Sartenais, Le 114-15, 124-8,
249-50
Sartne 124-5, 249-50
Scala di Santa Regina 179, 4
Sentier des Douaniers 46-7
Sentier des Rochers 143
Sentier Fazzio 123, 132
Sentier Littoral Campomoro
123
Sentier Muletier, Le 95
separatism 197-8
Sermano 181
Serra di Ferro 117
Serrale 158
shrubs 223-4
Sidossi 181
Sierra di Pigno 57
skiing 213
snails 221
snorkelling & diving 206-9
Baie de Lle Rousse 208
Bonifacio 131, 207
Calvi 66, 208
Campomoro 123-4
Golfe dAjaccio 208
Golfe de Lava 208
Golfe de Porto 208
Golfe de Sagone 208
Golfe du Valinco 207
les Cerbicale 140
les Lavezzi 131, 7, 8
Porto-Vecchio 207
Tizzano 207
Soccia 99

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

Solenzara 10, 165-7, 255

Sollacaro 118
speed limits 273
Speloncato 81, 246
Stantari 126
Ste-Lucie de Tallano 147-8, 253
Ste-Marie Sicch 109
St-Florent 50-4, 242-3, 51
St-Pierre de Venaco 183
surfing 209
swimming 158, see also
beaches, waterfalls & natural
pools

T
taxis 273
telephone services 263
time 263
tipping 262-3
Tizzano 127-8, 250
toilets 263-4
Tollare 46
Torrens 118
tortoises 106, 221
Tour de Campomoro 122-3
tourist information 264
towers, see forts & towers,
Genoese towers
train travel 59, 273-4
Tralonca 181
Tramway de la Balagne 59
travel to/from Corsica 9, 266-9
travel within Corsica 269-74
Tre Punti 132
Treaty of Versailles 194
trees 223
Tuara cove 91
TV 259

Vieux Port 42
Viggianello 120
Ville di Pietrabugno 45
visas 264-5
Vivario 184
Vix-Ventiseri 255
Vizzavana 184, 257
vultures 221-2

W
walking 21, 214, 21
Bastia 38-41, 40
Calvi 63, 66
Cap Corse 50
Cap Pertusato 123, 131-2
Capu Rossu 95-6
Chemin des Chtaigniers
92-3
Col de Bavella 148, 7
Col de la Croix 91
Col de Verghio 93
Fort de Tartagine-Melaja
63, 76
Gorges de Spelunca 92
Gorges du Manganellu 183-4
GR20 22, 214-16, 218, 9
Le Sentier Muletier 95
Les Calanques 94-5
Le Morianincu 157-8
Mare a Mare 217
Mare e Monti 217-18
Marine de Ficajola 96
Monte San Petrone 161-2
Notre Dame de la Serra
63, 66
Occi 63, 70-1
Piscia di Gallo 123, 144
Plage de Saleccia 54-5
Plateau du Coscione 123,
145-6
Porto 89
Punta di a Vacca Morta
143-5
Sentier des Douaniers 46-7
Sentier des Rochers 143
Sentier Fazzio 123, 132
Sentier Littoral Campomoro
123
Soccia to Lac de Creno 99
Valle de la Restonica 178
Valle du Niolo 180-1
Valle du Tavignano 175
waterfalls & natural pools 21
Carcheto 160
Cascade de lUcelluline 156
Cascade du Voile de la
Marie 184

295

Cascades dAtone 92-3

Cascades des Anglais 184
Piscia di Gallo 144
Valle de la Restonica 178
Valle du Travo 166
Zicavo 110

weather 8
websites, see internet
resources
weights 259, see inside front
cover
wi-fi access 261
wild boar 220

wildlife 93, 106, 220-2

wildlife parks 106
windsurfing 209, 22
wine 18, 235-6
festivals 18, 37, 50
museums 50

wineries 236
Clos Antonini 81
Clos de Bernardi 56
Domaine de Catarelli 56
Domaine de la Figarella 78
Domaine de Mosconi 126
Domaine de Torraccia 142
Domaine Gentile 56
Domaine Leccia 56
Domaine Orenga de Gaffory
56
Domaine Saparale 126
women travellers 265

Z
Zevaco 110
Zicavo 110
Zilia 76
zip lining 213
Zonza 144-5, 252

INDEX

Valle dAlesani 160, 162

Vallecalle 243
Valle de la Restonica 177-9,
256
Valle de la Solenzara 166
Valle de lAsco 180, 256
Valle de lOrtolo 126
Valle du Cavu 141-2
Valle du Fango 72
Valle du Niolo 11, 179-81,
256, 4, 11
Valle du Prunelli 107-9, 108
Valle du Tavignano 175
Valle du Travo 166
Venaco 183, 184
Verdse 254
Vico 100

INDEX (S-Z)

296

L O N E LY P L A N E T. C O M

MAP LEGEND

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ROUTES

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T rtiary Road
Te
Lane
Unsealed Road
Under Construction

Tunnel
Pedestrian Mall
Steps
Walking Track
Walking Path
Walking Tour
W king Tour Detour
Wal
Pedestrian Overpass

TRANSPORT
Ferry Route & Terminal
T
Metro Line & Station
Monorail & Stop
Bus Route & Stop

TTrain Line & Station

Underground Rail Line
TTram Line & Stop
Cable Car, Funicular

AREA FEATURES
A
Airport
Beach
Building
Campus
C metery, Christian
Ce
Cemetery, Other

HYDROGRAPHY

Land
Mall, Plaza
Market
Park
Sportsground
Urban

BOUNDARIES
River, Creek
Canal
Water
Swamp
Lake (Dry)

International
State, Provincial
Suburb
City Wall
Cliff

LONELY PLANET OFFICES

AUSTRALIA

Head Office
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UK

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lonelyplanet.com/contact
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Lonely Planet 2010
photographers as indicated 2010
Cover photograph Parata tower and les
Sanguinaires, Jean-Pierre Lescourret/Corbis.
Internal title-page photograph Bonifacio, JeanBernard Carillet. Many of the images in this guide
are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images:

Essential Information
Tourist Office
Police Station
Exploring
Beach
Buddhist
Castle, Fort
Christian
Diving, Snorkelling
Garden
Hindu
Islamic
Jewish
Monument
Museum, Gallery
Place of Interest
SSnow Sk iing
Swimming Pool
Ruin
Tomb
W
Winery,
Vineyard
Zoo, Bird Sanctuary

Gastronomic Highlights

Eating
Cafe

Nightlife

Drinking
Entertainment
Recommended Shops
Shopping
Accommodation
S
Sleeping
Camping
Transport
Airport, Airfield
Cycling, Bicycle Path
Border Crossing
Bus Station
Ferry
General Transpor t
G
TTrain Station
Taxi Rank
Parking
Parking

OTHER MAP SYMBOLS

Information

Geographic

Bank, ATM
Embassy, Consulate
Hospital, Medical
I ternet Facilities
In
Post Office
Telephone

Cave
Lighthouse
Lookout
Mountain, Volcano
National Park
Picnic Area

lonelyplanetimages.com. All rights reserved. No

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a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by
any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or
otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of
review, and no part of this publication may be sold
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publisher.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3
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Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the
accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

16-imprint-cor5.indd 296

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