WHAT IS QUALITY?

What would someone mean by the quality of a

shoe?
Let us suppose that it is a mans shoe that he is asking about.

Does he mean by good quality that it wears a long time?

Or that it takes a shine well?
That is feels comfortable?
That it is waterproof?
That the price is right in consideration of whatever he considers
quality? Or it is good in design?
Put another way, what quality-characteristics are important to
the customer? - Deming
 WHAT IS QUALITY?
Product quality is based on a product attribute.
How will you differentiate the quality between woven shirt and
sweater?

User-based quality is fitness for use,

How will you differentiate the quality between women garments
and kids garments as a wearer?

manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements,

Which quality parameters will be followed when manufacturing
thermal wear and sweat jacket?

value based quality is the degree of excellence at an acceptable

price
Zara jacket or mango jackets are products gives value for money
 QUALITY types?
Assurance: The act of giving confidence,
the state of being certain
or the act of making certain.
Quality Assurance: The planned and systematic activities
implemented in a quality system so that quality requirements for a
product or service will be fulfilled.
Control: An evaluation to indicate needed corrective responses;
the act of guiding a process
in which variability is attributable
to a constant system of chance causes.

Quality Control: The observation techniques and activities used to

fulfill requirements for quality.
 DEFINITIONS OF QUALITY
Conformance to specifications
The
degree to which a product or
service

meets the needs of the
customer
Uniformity around a customer-
defined target
Exceeding customer expectations

The customer is the most important part of the process.

 IMPACT OF HIGHER QUALITY ON VALUE

LESS WAIST

LESS REWORK

FEW
REJECTION LOWER COST
HIGHER HIGHER
QUALITY HIGH VALUE
LESS BACKLOG PRODUCTIVITY

FEW
COMPLAINTS

FEW RETURNS
QUALITY MUST BE CONSIDER AT ALL STAGES IN THE LIFE CYCLE, AS
SHOWN BELOW, OF A PRODUCT.

MARKETING &
MARKET RESEARCH

REQUIREMENTS &
DISPOSAL SPECIFICATION

TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE &

MAINTENANCE DESIGN&
DEVELOPMENT

INSTALLATION
& PROCUREMENT
OPERATION

SALES&
DISTRIBUTION PROCESS PLANNING &
DEVELOPMENT
PACKAGING &
STORAGE PRODUCTION

INSPECTION, TESTING &

EXAMINATION
 Quality inspection in apparel industries

Visual examination or
review of raw materials,
partially finished components of garments
and completely finished garments in relation to some
standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as
measuring garments to check if they meet the
required measurements.
 QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES

Do to control quality of garments.

Checking of fabric,
Sewing thread,
Button,
Stitching,
Zipper and other trims,
Garments measurements/size etc
according to required standard or specification is
known as inspection.
Quality inspection is important for every section of
apparel industries.
 STEPS IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES TO CONTROL QUALITY

RAW MATERIAL INSPECTION

IN PROCESS INSPECTION

FINAL INSPECTION
 RAW MATERIALS INSPECTION

It is done for the raw materials which are used in the

apparel production like fabric, sewing thread, button,
other accessories etc.

It is also termed as incoming material inspection.

Normally this is mainly done for fabrics using 4 point

system or 10 point system.
 ONLINE OR IN-PROCESS INSPECTION

This is done during the manufacturing process so that if there is

any problem in the process that will be rectified in that stage
itself.

This will be carried out by the quality controllers periodically

say every two or three hours.

They will check the measurement and defects and make the
inspection report which will be intimated to the production in-
charge.
 FINAL INSPECTION
This inspection is done after the goods are manufactured and
packed in carton boxes and which are ready for the shipment.

The goods are inspected and will be graded as per

acceptable quality level (AQL) which is prescribed by the
buyer.

The goods can be shipped after the final inspection is passed.

 QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES
IN SAMPLE MAKING SECTION

IN-MARKER MAKING SECTION

INSPECTION IN FABRIC SPREADING SECTION

INSPECTION IN FABRIC CUTTING SECTION

INSPECTION IN FABRIC SEWN SECTION

INSPECTION IN PRESSING & FINISHING SECTION

 QUALITY INSPECTION IN SAMPLING
MAINTAINING BUYER SPECIFICATION STANDARD

CHECKING THE SAMPLE AND ITS DIFFERENT ISSUES

MEASUREMENTS CHECKING

FABRIC COLOR, GSM, FASTNESS ETC PROPERTIES REQUIRED

CHECKING

SPI AND OTHER PARAMETER CHECKING

ANY OTHER DETAILING CHECKING

 QUALITY CONTROL IN MARKER MAKING
TO CHECK NOTCH OR DRILL MARK

FABRIC WIDTH MUST BE HIGHER THAN MARKER WIDTH

FABRIC LENGTH MUST BE HIGHER THAN MARKER LENGTH

MATCHING OF GREEN LINE

CHECK PATTERN SIZE AND DIMENSION

MATCHING OF CHECK AND STRIPE TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION

CONSIDERING GARMENTS PRODUCTION PLAN

PATTERN DIRECTION CONSIDERATION

 QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC SPREADING

FABRIC SPREADING ACCORDING TO CORRECT

ALIGNMENT WITH MARKER LENGTH AND WIDTH

MAINTAIN REQUIREMENTS OF SPREADING

LAY CONTAINS CORRECT NUMBER OF FABRIC PLY

CORRECT PLY DIRECTION

TO CONTROL THE FABRIC SPLICING

TENSION CONTROL
 QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC CUTTING

The dimension of the pattern and the cut piece should be same and accurate

CUT EDGE SHOULD BE SMOOTH AND CLEAN

NOTCH SHOULD BE CUT FINELY

DRILL HOLE SHOULD MADE AT PROPER PLACE

NO YARN FRAYING SHOULD OCCUR AT CUT EDGE

AVOID BLADE DEFLECTION

MAINTAIN CUTTING ANGLE

MORE SKILLED OPERATOR USING

 QUALITY CONTROL IN SEWING SECTION

INPUT MATERIAL CHECKING CUT PANEL AND ACCESSORIES CHECKING

MACHINE IS IN WELL CONDITION THREAD COUNT CHECK

SPECIAL WORK LIKE EMBROIDERY, PRINTING PANEL CHECK

NEEDLE SIZE CHECKING STITCHING FAULT SHOULD BE CHECKED

GARMENTS MEASUREMENT CHECK SEAM FAULT CHECK

MISMATCHING MATCHING OF TRIMMING SIZE MISTAKE CHECK

WRONG PLACEMENT OF INTERLINING SHADE VARIATION WITHIN THE CLOTH

CREASED OR WRINKLE APPEARANCE CONTROL

 QUALITY CONTROL IN FINISHING SECTION

Proper inspection of the garments including measurement, spot, dirt,

impurities Water spot

SHADING VARIATION CHECK SMOOTH AND UNFOLD IN POCKET

WRONG FOLD IN SECURED OR BROKEN CHAIN OR BUTTON

PROPER SHAPE IN GARMENTS WANTED WRINKLE OR FOLD IN LINING

PROPERLY DRIED IN AFTER PRESSING COLLAR CLOSING

SIDE SEAM SLEEVE PLACKET ATTACH GET UP CHECKING

EVERY PARTS OF A BODY CUFF ATTACH BACK YOKE

BOTTOM HEM
 FABRIC INSPECTION

Done through Fabric Inspection machine.

Very important for every industries .
In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric
are there any defect available or not. In fabric, fabric
defects viz. off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric,
barre effect etc. can be visual after entering into the store
room. For those defects it will be problem able for making
garments making.
In fabric inspection, also test fabric strength, color,
quantity
To check fabric there are different system i.e. 4 point
system, 10 point system etc.
FABRIC INSPECTION
FABRIC INSPECTION
FABRIC INSPECTION
 SEWING THREAD INSPECTION
During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread is one of
the great problems for garments manufacturing.
So that it is necessary to check

THREAD CONSTRUCTION,
SEWABILITY,
COLOR,
IMPERFECTION,
FINISH, PACKAGE
THREAD NUMBER,
THREAD PLY,
THREAD TENACITY,
THREAD ELONGATION,
WINDING,
YARDAGE OF SEWING THREAD.
 TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES INSPECTION
The final quality of any garment is also affected by trims and accessories
applied in it.
So that it is necessary to check
BUTTON,
ZIPPERS
INTERLINING,
LABEL &
TAGS
also need to check so that quality can be maintain according to required
quality.
FOR BUTTON,
BUTTON STRENGTH,
BUTTON COLOR,
QUANTITY ETC ARE CHECKED.
 IN PROCESS INSPECTION
Inspecting different parts of garments before sewing are called in
process inspection.

It starts from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric cutting,

fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is done in process.

MARKER MAKING
FABRIC SPREADING
FABRIC CUTTING
SORTING/ BUNDLING
FABRIC SEWING
SEAM DEFECTS
ASSEMBLY DEFECTS
PRESSING/ FINISHING DEFECTS
 PATTERN GRADING DEFECTS
1. Grade Not Conforming to Specification measurements
Finished product not measuring to specified dimension
component parts not fitting in relationship to notches,
openings and seams such as armholes sleeve heads neck
bands,
neck openings and side seams inseams,
waist measurements and etc.

2. Distorted Grading:
Unbalanced patterns which would cause twisted seams,
puckering,
pleating and
a general uneconomical yardage waste.
MARKER
 MARKER INSPECTION

It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in marker.

In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked

Pattern direction should be checked.

Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered

during marker making.
During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be
accurate.

During marker making fabric length and width should be considered.

 MARKER INSPECTION

Notches & drill marks

Knife clearance

Checks and stripes (mittering)

Marker width
 MARKING DEFECTS
Shaded Parts:-All component pans not included in same section.
Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or
pleating.
Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not lit together, causing
twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component
parts.

Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern.

Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced.

Marker Too Wide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments or
requiring results.
 MARKER DEFECTS
Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.

Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material

Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component parts to match.

Misdirected Napping:-Patterns not marked in same direction and napped

fabrics.
SPREADING
 SPREADING INSPECTION
Factors which must be checked
Fabric Nature
Ply alignment
Ply tension/slackness
Bowing
Splicing
Grain-line
Shade variation
Selvedge alignment & tightness
Fabric width
Checks
Static electricity
 SPREADING DEFECTS

1. Uneven Spreading:-Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or

back edge of marker not catching all ply.
2. Narrow Material:-Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover
marker width.
3. Missed Sectional Breaks:-Sectional marker breaks too long or too
short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.
4. Improper Tension:-Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts
not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.
5. Mismatching Plaids:-Material spread too loose or too tight causing
plaid lines to run diagonally or bow.
6. Misdirected Napping:-Air pockets not removed. Napped material
reversed in spreading.
7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down, face
up or face to face as required.
FRAYED EDGE
FUZZY, RAGGED OR SERRATED EDGES
 CUTTING INSPECTION
Marker Making

Fabric Spreading

Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay

Fabric Cutting

Numbering

100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.

Shorting & Bundling

Sewing/Assembling
 CUTTING INSPECTION

Ply to ply fusion

Single edge fusion

Pattern precision

Notches & drillers

Cutting Equipment precision

 CUTTING DEFECTS

1. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked on, wrong
bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.

2. Drill Marks:-Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill
used.

3. Opening Slits:-Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut through
entire bundle or omitted.

4. Improper Cutting:-Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting

knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.

5. Notches:-Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.

6. Oil Spots:-Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.

7. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundles.

 SORTING/ BUNDLING
It is necessary to check numbering, sorting, and
bundling is done accurately.

DEFECTS

1. Not Stacked in Numerical Order: Bundle numbers

not in order on rack skid or box.
2. Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong material.
 SEWING INSPECTION

Stitching Defects
Needle damage
Skipped stitch
Thread breaks
Seam pucker
Wrong stitch density
Uneven stitch
Staggered stitch
Improperly formed stitch
Skip stitches

Improper threading.
Poor clamping or insufficient
pressure (flagging).
The needle needs replacing.
Wrong size needle.
Wrong type of needle for the
material.
Lubrication.
Wrong thread for the
application.
Poor quality thread.
Needle size and thread weight
are mismatched.
Worn thread guides, paths or
eyelets