photo

guide
to
iceland
Photo Guide to Iceland
Photographs and text by Finnur P. Fróðason (Finn) and
Haukur Parelius Finnsson (Hawk)
Foreword by Andy Cook of Rocky Mountain Reflections
Photography, Inc.
Text on safety by safetravel.is
Proofreading and editing by Mira Astrid Sorensen
Design and layout by Arngrímur Arnarson and Hróbjartur
Sigurðsson at Blokkin (www.blokkin.is)
Published by Ýma ehf., Garðabær, Iceland
First edition published in Iceland, January 2015
Copyright © Ýma ehf., 2015 – All rights reserved
The photographs, text, and this e-book in its entirety
are copyrighted and protected by Icelandic and
international copyright laws. However, you are welcome
to share this e-book with all your friends, provided it is
for non-commercial purposes and you acknowledge the
source.

Disclaimer
The authors have made every effort to ensure that
the information and data are accurate at the time
of publication; however, please do not follow these
heedlessly and use your own judgement. Please note
that GPS systems can have different datums, and that
the GPS points in this book have been taken using
a few different devices. Opinions and advice are the
subjective views of the authors, put forward responsibly,
in good faith and to the best of their knowledge.
The publisher and the authors disclaim any liability
for damages arising from the use or misuse of the
information contained in this e-book.

Cover image
Lava by Leirhnjúkur in North Iceland.
Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 100mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f25, 3.2
September 19, 2014, 17:33 GMT ISO 200
Table of contents

About the Authors................................................... 4 Gullfoss ................................................................ 80

Introduction............................................................ 6 Geysir/Strokkur.................................................... 82
“Location, Location, Location“............................... 8 Brúárfoss.............................................................. 86
Barnafoss.............................................................. 12 Þingvellir................................................................ 88
Hraunfossar.......................................................... 16 Seltún/Krýsuvík..................................................... 92
Arnarstapi.............................................................. 18 Blue Lagoon........................................................... 94
Hellnar................................................................... 20 Gunnuhver.............................................................. 96
Djúpalón................................................................. 22 The Interior Highlands......................................... 98
Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss............................... 24 Aldeyjarfoss........................................................100
Dynjandi.................................................................. 26 Askja......................................................................102
Hvítserkur.............................................................. 28 Háifoss & Granni ................................................104
Goðafoss................................................................ 32 Landmannalaugar...............................................106
Námaskarð............................................................. 34 Sigalda Canyon ...................................................110
Krafla & Leirhnjúkur............................................ 36 Veiðivötn...............................................................112
Dettifoss................................................................. 38 Þórsmörk.............................................................114
Selfoss................................................................... 40 Kerlingarfjöll.....................................................116
Hljóðaklettar......................................................... 42 Gýgjarfoss...........................................................118
Hengifoss & Litlanefsfoss.................................. 44 Northern Lights...................................................120
Klifbrekkufossar.................................................. 46 Volcanic Eruptions.............................................122
Mjóifjörður............................................................ 48 Aerial Photography.............................................124
Stokksnes............................................................... 50 “Proper planning & preparation prevents
Jökulsárlón........................................................... 52 piss-poor performance“....................................128
Icy Beach................................................................. 54 Deciding When to Visit Iceland..........................130
Fjallsárlón............................................................ 56 Icelandic Weather...............................................132
Svínafellsjökull.................................................... 58 roads in Iceland..................................................134
Fjaðrárgljúfur...................................................... 60 Icelandic Nature – Friend or Foe?....................136
Reynisdrangar....................................................... 64 Gear: What to Bring to Iceland.........................138
Dyrhólaey............................................................... 66 Sunrise and Sunset............................................140
Skógafoss.............................................................. 68 opening of mountain roads..............................141
Seljalandsfoss...................................................... 70 Icelandic words in connection with nature,
Gluggafoss............................................................ 74 and a few others.................................................142
Hjálparfoss............................................................ 76 General Information on Iceland......................144
Gjáin......................................................................... 78 Signing off...........................................................147
 About
the Authors
Finnur P. Fróðason
– Finn
Finnur Parelius Fróðason was born in Denmark but
moved to Iceland in 1967 after getting his degree
in Interior Architecture. He has worked as an Interior
Architect ever since. Finn first visited Iceland in 1966
and it was love at first sight – a love that has been
returned.
His interest in photography started in the early teens
when he got an old 6X9 film camera from his father.
From that time on, Finn has been taking photographs.
On his first trip to Iceland, he took 400 photos on a
Rolleiflex 6×6. Unfortunately, most of the photos were with an interest in geology, is a good mixture as both
out of focus due to a fault in the camera. teach us to ‘read’ the land. When nature – big or small
Soon after moving to Iceland in 1967, Finn started to – is bathed in the special Icelandic light, a climax is
travel and hike with Ferðafélag Íslands (The Iceland reached and you can wish for no more. It is a privilege
Touring Association) and joined the Air Ground Rescue to be able to watch the sunrise though the volcanic mist
Team – all due to his great interest in Iceland, especially or stand by a pond at Skaftafell and watch the sun‘s
its untamed hinterlands. It was an interest that quickly last rays fall on Iceland‘s highest peak. I am grateful for
changed into a real love affair with the land and nature. being an Icelander.”
This love affair led to the University of Iceland where Photography Exhibitions:
Finn obtained qualifications as a certified tour guide.
He is also a founding member and on the board of a • Arbaer Museum Reykjavik 1970
geological society, Hamarinn. • Kjarvalsstadir: 1980 – with Emil Thor Sigurdsson
Finn has been guiding for years and today he is lucky • The Frozen Image: Walker Art Center 1982 – group
to be working with his son Haukur Parelius, owner of exhibition
Nature Explorer – a super jeep tour company in Iceland. • Lightscapes – Reykjavik Town Hall 2011
In the book co-authored with his son, Finn says, • Lightscapes – Gallery Ugla, Montréal 2014
“Photography and an interest in nature go like hand in
Books:
glove and photography teaches us to see – not just to
look. The changing of light and shadow, patterns and • Lightscapes – Iceland’s Nature Explored – with Haukur
colours is what makes nature so fascinating. This, along Parelius

4
Haukur Parelius
Finnsson – Hawk
Hawk runs his own tour operating company in
Iceland, Nature Explorer, which specializes in tours on
modified 4x4s (‘Super-Jeeps’). Through his work as
a driver/photo-guide he enjoys being out in the field
photographing with his customers.
Hawk is a certified International 4-Wheel Drive Trainer
and member of the International 4-Wheel Drive Trainer’s
Association. He has trained military forces and worked
for ISAF, driving super-jeeps in Afghanistan, as well
as had years of experience driving in the Icelandic
wilderness and highlands. and the Himalayas. One of his proudest adventures is
At the age of 14, Hawk was the first to bicycle from a rafting adventure/documentary film expedition with
Reykjavík to Þórsmörk (Thorsmork) and started guiding his mountain friends group through the Dark Canyon
for The Iceland Touring Association at the age of 17. (Dimmugljúfur) in Northeast Iceland. Hawk and his son
He has guided for them and Útivist Travel Association learned to dive together on the Great Barrier Reef in
occasionally through the years, both on hikes and Australia; they rafted the Nile in Uganda and visited the
jeep safaris, as well as been a member of a voluntary mountain gorillas in Rwanda.
Mountain Search & Rescue team. However, Hawk now Hawk is a keen amateur photographer with a passion
only guides with his own company. for the Icelandic wilderness and enjoys sharing it with
Hawk has a Business degree from the University his clients, and capturing its beauty through the lenses
of Iceland and a Master’s degree in International of his Canon 5D.
Marketing and Management from Copenhagen
Business School. He is also a certified Wilderness First Books:
Responder and regularly freshens up on his first aid • Lightscapes - Iceland’s Nature Explored, co-authored
skills. with his father, Finn
Past adventures include having successfully climbed • Fun Facts and Photos (coming in spring 2015)
5 of the world’s 7 summits and climbing in the Alps

5
 Introduction
One August day a few years ago I was on a Belizean Iceland is the most civilized, remote place on the
island sitting by the beach lamenting the fact that planet. Imagine an island the size of Ohio with barely
within a few days I’d be landing in Keflavik, Iceland to more than three hundred thousand inhabitants, two
spend a week photographing the southern part of the thirds of which live clustered in the south west corner
island. After passing 50 I’ve come to love warm places, of the island. Now, do you expect the entire island
especially those by the sea. I was unsure how an island to be covered in cell service? It is. Imagine you’re
snuggled up to the Arctic Circle would be appealing to hours from anywhere, I mean anywhere. Your hotel
me, but I’d made the commitment to be there and was is a mundane looking building, out of place in the
resigned to go and suffer through. wilderness. Do you expect to find Wi-Fi offered here?
After landing and passing into the jet bridge, chilly You should. How about the food? Well, prepare to be
air swirled around my sun tanned limbs confirming astonished. It’s as if the people of the island have had
the worst of my preconceived impressions. This was scare resources for centuries and lots of time to kill
going to be a cold, miserable week that just had in the winter with nothing better to do than constantly
to be endured and then I’d never have to return. improve recipes, making the absolute best meals from
Unexpectedly, upon entering the terminal and the what was available. They’ve learned to create some of
warmth it provided my attitude shifted, somewhat, it the most delicious food imaginable. France has some
was nice be somewhere totally different. How different, competition. It does not matter where you are the food
try to imagine a smiling, friendly face on an official will please.
checking your passport, weird right. Hey, where are Photography, I went there for photography. How is it
the customs forms? I don’t need them. Hmm, this is to photograph? Are you kidding? It’s paradise. The
different. Ok, the walk across the parking lot to the landscape of Iceland is amazing and varies greatly
rental car agency was chilly. I wasn’t pleased, but from region to region. It will take annual visits for the
perhaps I was not wearing the appropriate clothing. rest of my life to finish scratching the surface of what is
The 45 minute drive from the airport into Reykjavík was available to photograph. There is a mood in Iceland that
enlightening. I’d certainly never been in a place like can be captured by the camera and it is pure magic.
this before. It was spectacularly treeless, as far as the Yes, I’ve been back to the island since my first visit,
eye could see were rolling hills and mountains vibrantly and each time I leave, I’m sad and even more eager to
colored with green mosses and small plants, and return. I think it’s love.
clouds, beautiful stormy clouds with sunlight dancing One can tackle the exploration of Iceland alone and
and swirling, wow this place is kind of cool. I expect the reader will find this guide of use in doing
Well, as each day of the week passed I became a bit so. If, on the other hand, you want to access remote
more infatuated with the place. Yes, learning to wear locations in rugged, super jeeps, travel the country
appropriate clothing made a huge difference. It was with locals who will entertain the hours away and have
easy to stay warm by donning the layers packed in excellent contingency plans when things go wrong,
my suit case and I’m forever grateful that our guides they always do. Then, I highly recommend contacting
insisted we have rain proof outer layers always within Haukur (Hawk), the author of this guide. His super jeep
reach. It turned out to be the 2nd rainiest September in adventure company “Nature Explorer” will surely provide
more than one hundred years. the experience of a lifetime.

Andy Cook
Rocky Mountain Reflections Photography, Inc.

6
helicopter tours
Nordurflug took us on a trip that was almost a photographer- customized-flight,
full of opportunities for all passengers to enjoy the fantastic sights and to take
pictures in good conditions. DO NOT HESITATE, yes this is worth it.

reykjavik domestic airport

[email protected] • +354 562 2500
 “Location,
Location, Location“
Although this famous quote is used to describe Spring: Over 75 different bird species migrate to
the three most important factors in determining Iceland in the spring and nest. Here you can find some
the desirability of a property, it transfers easily into of the largest bird cliffs in Europe, including the largest
photography. A famous quote within photography that puffin colonies. The highlands are however inaccessible
conveys a similar message is “F11 and be there”. in the spring and most highland roads don´t open until
A bit of planning and study of locations affords more after mid-June.
precious time in the field, photographing, and increases This e-book is intended to help your photo-trip to
the chances of actually being there at the right time Iceland generate many great photographs, by giving
with the right gear. Knowing which places to visit, what ideas and useful tips. On the next page is a map of
to expect, how to get there and having an idea or two Iceland with each location marked, going clockwise
on how to photograph them not only saves time, but from Reykjavík. We have categorized the locations
also hopefully makes both the planning of the trip and into different subjects: waterfalls, glaciers, beaches,
the trip itself more fun. That said, one of the best things mountains and geothermal/geology.
about visiting a place that you have not photographed Each location section has the following information:
before is that you have no preconceived ideas about
the various viewpoints and your mind is entirely open • Subject (waterfall, glacier, beach, mountains or
to new impressions, in terms of both motifs and the geothermal)
ever-changing light. Most likely, the best image on your • Area of Iceland (west, north, east, south)
trip to Iceland will not be at any of the locations in this • Nearest town (which makes it easier to find the
e-book but somewhere in between, on the journey, location on a map and on sat.nav)
capturing a special moment – perhaps not even with • Accessibility (car versus 4x4 and if there is any hiking
your camera, just a mental image. involved)
Most sights and locations have a time of day when • GPS coordinates, generally to the nearest parking
the light is best suited for photography and this differs • Description, both general and from a photographer’s
between seasons. Select the time of year for your perspective
trip that best corresponds to the desired feel and
• Driving directions, generally from more than one
atmosphere of the photos you want to shoot. Each
direction
season has its pros and cons.
• Sample photographs with metadata
Summer: 24-hour daylight and everything in bloom but
• Seasonal information (when the location is
also the highest number of tourists - although Iceland
accessible)
can never be considered crowded.
On some locations we have added some information on
Autumn: Autumn colours with the contrast of the first geology, our recommendations, a fun fact or a useful
snow in the mountains and the crisp air. The number tip.
of tourists drops, but so does the temperature and
the hours of daylight. Winter: Short days with limited We have purposely avoided rating each location or
daylight provide plenty of challenges but there are still making claims whether one location is better or worse
plenty of great photos to pursue; the Icelandic horses than another. “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.”
out in snowstorm, the Northern Lights and frozen
waterfalls. Enjoy planning a fun photo trip to Iceland.

8
Rainbow over Mt Mælifell at sunset. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 40mm
Canon 5D f22, 1/3
July 23, 2008, 22:04 GMT ISO 100

Sun breaking through the clouds Photo by Hawk EF70-200 mm f/2.8L USM @ 90mm
Canon 5D Mrk I f14,  1/60
in southern Iceland. August 8, 2010, 09:27 GMT ISO 400

9
 Dynjandi

Hvítserkur

Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss

Arnarstapi
Djúpalón Hellnar
Barnafoss
Hraunfossar
Gýgjarfo
Kerli

Þingvellir Gullfoss Geysir / Strokkur

Brúárfoss
Háifoss & Granni
Sigalda Canyon
Gjáin Hjálparfoss

Blue Lagoon Lan

Seltún / Krýsuvík
Gunnuhver

Gluggafoss
Seljalandsfoss
Skógafoss

Dyrhólaey Re

10
 Hljóðaklettar
Dettifoss
Selfoss

Goðafoss Krafla & Leirhnjúkur

Námaskarð

Aldeyjarfoss

Klifbrekkufossar Mjóifjörður

Hengifoss & Litlanefsfoss

oss
ingarfjöll

Stokksnes
i
Veiðivötn

Fjallsárlón
Svínafellsjökull Jökulsárlón
ndmannalaugar Icy Beach

Fjaðrárgljúfur

eynisdrangar

11
 Barnafoss
Subject Barnafoss means “Children‘s Waterfall” and the name comes from a sad story that tells of
Waterfall two children who vanished attempting to cross the river. One Christmas day the household
Area at the nearby farm Hraunsás went to mass at the local church, whilst the two children were
West Iceland to stay at home. When the people returned, the children had disappeared but their tracks
Nearest town in the snow led down to the river and to a natural stone arch that once bridged the river.
Borgarnes There the trail ended so it was clear that the children had fallen into the river and drowned.
Access Their mother then had the stone arch destroyed to prevent such a tragedy being repeated.
Car
This waterfall is more like fierce rapids where the river thrusts through a very narrow canyon
GPS Coordinates and through an arch that‘s usually underwater – unless the water level is very low. The
N64°42’092’‘
W020°58’697’‘
average flow is around 80 m3/s but can get as high as 500 m3/s in spring floods when
the snow is melting.
Barnafoss is just a couple of hundred metres upstream from Hraunfossar (“Lava
Waterfalls”). There are good paths and viewing platforms. The only way to photograph the
falls is from above, shooting downwards.

Directions* Coming from the north along the Ring Road,

There are a number of routes to take to drive past Bifröst and turn left at Baula
Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. Coming from onto road 50 (north) to Deildartunga /
Reykjavík, head north on the Ring Road, Deildartunguhver. Then turn left to Reykholt
through the tunnel under Hvalfjörður and and drive towards Húsafell on road 518 for
towards Borgarnes. Just before crossing the another 24 km, and turn left at the sign for
bridge into Borgarnes, turn right onto road Hraunfossar.
50 (south) and follow the sign to Reykholt.
Note that there are other places called Seasons
Reykholt in other parts of the country – so, All year
if the GPS says something meaningless,
look at the map. It‘s about half an hour‘s Our recommendation
drive, less than 40 km. The canyon is very narrow so deep shadows
form quickly if there is any sun – therefore,
At Reykholt, turn onto road 518 and drive soft light on a cloudy day is best.
towards Húsafell for another 24 km, then
turn left at the sign for Hraunfossar.
* same as for Hraunfossar

TIP
Sunny days give too
much contrast so
aim for cloudy skies
with soft light.

12
Barnafoss in autumn. Photo by Hawk EF24-700mm f/2.8L II USM @ 42mm
Canon 5D mark iii f8, 1/25
September 20, 2014, 18:43 GMT ISO 400

13
 Barnafoss in autumn. Photo by Hawk EF24-700mm f/2.8L II USM @ 41mm
Canon 5D mark iii f8, 1/5
September 20, 2014, 18:24 GMT ISO 100

14
 Hraunfossar
Subject Hraunfossar (“Lava Waterfalls”) get their name from the countless streams of clear water
Waterfall which emerge from under the edge of the lava field Hallmundarhraun and cascade into the
Area river Hvítá (“White River”). Hvítá actually has a very nice turquoise colour. The lava is quite
West Iceland porous so rain seeps through until it meets a more dense rock layer, then runs between
Nearest town the lava layers, eventually emerging to form almost a kilometre long series of falls. Some
Borgarnes birch trees and heather grow on the moss covered lava, framing the waterfall nicely with
Access colourful foliage, especially in the autumn.
Car
There is a viewing platform on the top of the bank across from the waterfall which is very
GPS Coordinates easy access but the angle is a bit downwards. There are no paths down to the bottom of
N64°42’092’‘
W20°58’697’‘
the canyon but some brave-hearted and surefooted manage to make their way down to
the river, to get the river in the foreground and enable shooting more level against the falls.
It‘s a great place to practice your panoramic skills.
There are ropes to mark where to go and where not to go and if you do decide to go off the
marked trails, please respect the sensitive flora.
Hraunfossar and Barnafoss (“Chidren’s Waterfall”) were declared a natural monument in
1987.

Directions* and drive towards Húsafell on road 518 for

There are a number of routes to take to another 24 km, then turn left at the sign for
Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. Coming from Hraunfossar.
Reykjavík, head north on the Ring Road,
through the tunnel under Hvalfjörður and Seasons
towards Borgarnes. Just before crossing the All year.
bridge into Borgarnes, turn right onto road
50 (south) and follow the sign to Reykholt. Our recommendation
Note that there are other places called Wide angle lens for the whole scene – or
Reykholt in other parts of the country – so, use a normal lens and stitch together
if the GPS says something meaningless, images into a panorama. A telephoto
look at the map. It‘s about half an hour‘s lens also gives many great compositions,
drive, less than 40 km. isolating individual falls and foliage. Notice
also the reddish streaks in the rock itself.
At Reykholt, turn onto road 518 and drive
towards Húsafell for another 24 km, then Hraunfossar is a great sunset location.
turn left at the sign for Hraunfossar.
Our little secret
Coming from the north along the Ring Road, Hraunfossar has some amazing autumn
drive past Bifröst and turn left at Baula colours so late September is a great time
onto road 50 (north) to Deildartunga / to visit.
Deildartunguhver. Then turn left to Reykholt
* same as for Barnafoss

TIP
Take off the
polarizer and shoot
in manual mode
when stitching
images.

16
Hraunfossar in summer. Photo by Finn EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
Canon 5D mark ii f22, 1/8
July 2, 2009, 15:51 GMT ISO 100

Close up Hraunfossar in autumn. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 173mm

Canon 5D mark iii f20, 0.8
September 20, 2014, 17:58 GMT ISO 100

17
 Arnarstapi
Subject Arnarstapi looks like a small fishing village but it is more a collection of summer cottages
Beach near the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The small harbour is very picturesque, with
Area sea stacks rising from the ocean brimming with birdlife and Snæfellsjökull glacier as the
West Iceland backdrop. Behind the harbour, the sea cliffs provide a lot of wave action and interesting
Nearest town rock formations. There are numerous arches in the lava cliffs and narrows where the waves
Hellissandur push the ocean through with big splashes. The birds and guano add life and colour to the
Access lava cliffs. In the opposite direction, away from the ocean, inland, there is the pyramid
Car shaped mountain Stapafell and the glacier Snæfellsjökull. Both Hellnar and Djúpalón are
GPS Coordinates nearby.
N64°46’206”
W023°37’251”
Snæfellsnes Peninsula is sometimes described as “Iceland in a nutshell” as it has so
much variety in landscape: glacier, lava, cliffs, volcanoes, beaches and mountains - so
there is plenty to photograph there.

Directions is 35 km from Borgarnes) and Gerðuberg

From Reykjavík, drive north along the Ring hexagonal basalt columns (the turnoff from
Road, through the tunnel to Borgarnes. After road 54 is 46 km from Borgarnes).
passing through the town of Borgarnes, take
the last exit on the roundabout to road 54. Seasons
All year but the road can close in mid winter
Near Búðir, turn off road 54 onto road 574
due to snow.
to Arnarstapi and drive for approximately 20
km. From Borgarnes to Arnarstapi is a bit Our recommendation
over an hour, around 120 km. Combine a visit to Arnarstapi with a trip to
On the way, consider photographing the Hellnar, Djúpalón and Kirkjufell.
Eldborg crater(the turnoff from road 54

Want to learn more?

Read this article on Snaefellsjokull glacier:
http://www.icelandontheweb.com/articles-on-iceland/nature/national-parks/snaefellsjokull

18
Arnarstapi with Stapafell mountain and Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 34mm
Canon 5D f11, 1/50
Snæfellsjökull glacier in the background. May 3, 2012, 12:01 GMT ISO 100

Gatklettur by Arnarstapi. Photo by Finn TS-E24 mm f/3.5L II @ 24mm

Canon 5D Mrk II f24, 1/20
October 3. 2010, 12:08 GMT ISO 800

19
 Hellnar
Subject Hellnar is a small cove a few kilometres further west from Arnarstapi on the Snæfellsnes
Beach Peninsula. The visitor centre for Snæfellsjökull National Park is located above the cove,
Area and down in the cove there is a very nice little café.
West Iceland
The cove itself is very scenic, especially the rock formations which surround it. The ocean
Nearest town
has carved out holes, narrows and arches where the waves crash through on high tide.
Hellissandur
The rocks vary, from the sea-rounded ocean rocks to layers of sharp lava tiles, so there are
Access plenty of interesting forms and shapes for abstract photography. One can also play with
Car
colour: from the blue of the ocean to the white of the guano rocks topped with green grass
GPS Coordinates and low-growing flowers.
N64°45’068”
W023°53’750”
Directions Seasons
From Reykjavík drive north along the Ring All year but the road can close in mid winter
Road, through the tunnel to Borgarnes. After due to snow.
passing through the town of Borgarnes, take
the last exit on the roundabout to road 54. Our recommendation
Enjoy Icelandic waffles with rhubarb jam at
Near Búðir, turn off road 54 onto road 574
the charming café down in the cove.
to Arnarstapi and drive for approximately
20 km. Combine a visit to Hellnar with a trip to
Arnarstapi, Djúpalón and Kirkjufell.
From Arnarstapi, continue on road 574 a
few km further, then turn left at the sign for
Hellnar. The location is a couple of km from
the main road. From the parking lot, walk
down the path to the little café in the cove.

FUN FACT
Snæfellsjökull
is the setting for
the novel Under
the Glacier by
Halldór Laxness,
Iceland’s only
Nobel Laureate.
Iceland has the
largest number of
Nobel prize winners
per capita in the
world: 1.

20
Hole in the wall at Hellnar Photo by Finn EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D Mrk II f11, 1/50
July 13. 2010, 14:46 GMT ISO 100

Rock formations at Hellnar. Photo by Finn EF600mm f/4.5L IS II USM

Canon 5D Mrk III f13, 1/125
June 2 2013, 12:35 GMT ISO 640

21
 Djúpalón
Subject Djúpalón is a small cove surrounded by extraordinary lava formations and known by
Beach Icelanders for its black pebbles, called “Djúpalón-pearls”. The black rounded pebbles
Area create a strong contrast against the ocean. Lava rocks frame the cove beautifully, and
West Iceland there are sea stacks jutting out into the ocean, which provide interesting foreground and
Nearest town leading lines.
Hellissandur
Looking inland, there is a great view to Snæfellsjökull glacier, which you can frame nicely
Access through a hole in the lava wall.
Car
GPS Coordinates
The iron wreckage on the beach mostly belongs to the British trawler Epine GY-7 that
N 64°45’218” stranded there on the evening of March 13th 1948.
W023°53’700”
Directions 574. Djúpalón is signposted on the left,
From Reykjavík drive north along the Ring road 572 and goes 3 km from the main
Road, through the tunnel to Borgarnes. After road to the parking lot. There is a public
passing through the town of Borgarnes, take toilet (only open in summer) and marked
the last exit on the roundabout to road 54. trails.
Near Búðir, turn off road 54 onto road 574
Seasons
to Arnarstapi and drive approximately 20
All year but the road can close due to snow
km.
in mid winter.
From Borgarnes to Arnarstapi is about 120
km. Our recommendation
From Arnarstapi, continue a few km further Combine a visit to Djúpalón with a trip to
out towards the tip of the peninsula on road Arnarstapi, Hellnar and Kirkjufell.

FUN FACT
Snæfellsjökull
serves as the
entrance to the
subterranean
journey in Jules
Verne’s novel
Journey to the
Center of the Earth.

22
Djúpalón sea stacks in a winter sunset. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 27mm
Canon 5D MIII f11, 53 sec through grad filters
February 25, 2014, 17:02 GMT ISO 100

Djúpalón sea stacks in summer. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 25mm
Canon 5D f11, 1/125
July 13, 2010, 15:59 GMT ISO 100

23
 Kirkjufell &
Subject
Mountains &
Waterfall
Area
Kirkjufellsfoss
West Iceland Mt Kirkjufell is an iconic mountain which has gained popularity among photographers over
Nearest town
the past few years. It has even appeared on some lists of the most beautiful mountains in
Grundarfjörður the world – which we won‘t judge but, as Icelanders, we have to brag about it and support
its listing.
Access
Car There is a tiny little waterfall, Kirkjufellsfoss, which is very popular to use as a foreground,
GPS Coordinates but the mountain is also great as foreground, especially under the auroras. There are often
N64°55‘572‘‘ reflections in the water, when photographing from the west side of the town.
W023°18‘659‘‘
On the photo of Kirkjufellsfoss, taken in February in the late afternoon, the sun was behind
the waterfall. This angle might have the best light in the mornings when the light is on the
waterfall. Kirkjufellsfoss is smaller than one would think but since it’s at the edge of a wide
angle lens, it seems bigger.
Note: For this angle in winter, you need crampons or spikes to be able to walk on the ice.

Directions Note: It can get very windy on roads 54 and

Mt. Kirkjufell is just outside the town 56, near the mountains. Check the weather
of Grundarfjörður on the north shore of forecast and the road conditions, especially
Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the western part in winter.
of Iceland. Grundarfjörður is on all maps
and in the Sat Nav systems. From Reykjavik Seasons
the distance is 177 km; about 2,5 hours. Kirkjufell can be photographed in any
season. Some might favour the bright
Take the Ring Road northbound out of
nights in summer, others the first snow in
Reykjavik, through the tunnel in Hvalfjörður
autumn and yet others prefer the winter,
and continue to Borgarnes (about 70 km).
with or without the northern lights.
After passing through Borgarnes, at the
small roundabout, drive ¾ and take the last Our recommendation
exit to road 54. Continue for about 60 km Allow for a few days in Snæfellsnes and
to the next intersection at Vegamót, then drive around the peninsula. It gives you an
turn right onto road 56 and drive through amazing variety in landscape and subjects.
a mountain pass to the north side of the
peninsula. Once across the mountain pass, Our little secret
about 15 km, at the T-intersection turn left At certain times of the year, whales can be
onto road 54 for the last 25 km or so to spotted from the bridge over Kolgrafarfjörður
Grundarfjörður. (just a few km east of Grundarfjörður),
Photographing Mt. Kirkjufell is fine but the when they follow the herring into the fjord or
most popular place to photograph it is lagoon. The season for the whales in fjord is
just west of the town. From Grundarfjörður, usually from November to April.
TIP
continue on road 54 just a couple of miles
In winter, bring
crampons or spikes and then Kirkjufellsfoss is on the left and
to be able to walk Mt. Kirkjufell on the right hand side.
on icy slopes by the
waterfall.

24
Kirkjufellsfoss in winter. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 f/2.8L IS USM @ 17mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f14, 30 sec
February 25. 2014, 18:44 GMT ISO 100

Kirkjufell reflecting in calm waters. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 35mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f22, 1/90
March 23, 2014, 17:20 GMT ISO 400

25
 Dynjandi
Subject Dynjandi is the iconic waterfall of the Westfjords. Although it is always referred to as “a
Waterfall waterfall”, it is actually a series of waterfalls with a cumulative height of 100 metres. The
Area largest waterfall is at the top, 30 m wide where it plunges off the edge of the mountain
West Iceland and spreads out to 60 m wide, like a bridal veil, before cascading down the mountainside
(Westfjords)
in a set of waterfalls, falling off one step after another and ending in the bottom of the
Nearest town fjord Arnarfjörður. The waterfalls are a total of six. Some claim the names are Fjallfoss,
Þingeyri / Bíldudalur Hundafoss, Strokkur, Göngumannafoss, Hrísvaðsfoss and Sjóarfoss. Others claim the
Access names are Hæstahjallafoss, Strompgljúfrafoss, Göngumannafoss, Hrísvaðsfoss, Hundafoss
Car and Bæjarfoss.
GPS Coordinates
N65°44‘203‘‘
No need to argue as everybody refers to the waterfall series as Dynjandi (which is actually
W023°12‘525‘‘ the name of the river and the abandoned farm) and means “thundering”.
There is a trail along the south side of the river, from the parking area at the bottom up
to the base of the highest waterfall. Dynjandi faces west so it has the best light in the
afternoon to sunset, depending on the time of year.

Directions Our recommendation

Dynjandi is half way between the towns of Normal to wide lens to capture the whole
Bíldudalur and Þingeyri, at the bottom of scene and the fjord. Telephoto for close up
the fjord Arnarfjörður. and abstracts. A polarizer is always good
Coming from Þingeyri (Thingeyri), drive to have when photographing water and
south 40 km on road 60 towards waterfalls.
Brjánslækur. Allow for plenty of time at Dynjandi, explore
Approaching from the opposite direction, and detour to find new and less obvious
from Brjánslækur, drive 37 km on road 60 angles.
towards Þingeyri. Consider visiting Látrabjarg and
The roads are mostly gravel, going over Rauðisandur together with a trip to
some high passes and heaths, with many Dynjandi.
hairpin turns so allow for a bit more time.

Seasons
Spring to autumn. In winter, the road is very
often closed due to snow.

Want to learn more?

FUN FACT
The Westfjords Read this article on the Westfjords:
are geologically http://www.icelandontheweb.com/articles-on-iceland/iceland-regions/westfjords
the oldest part of
Iceland.

26
The top series of the waterfalls in Dynjandi. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm f/2.8L USM @ 32mm
Canon 5D Mrk I f22, 0.6
May 5. 2012, 19:58 GMT ISO 100

Close up of Dynjandi. Photo by Hawk EF70-200 mm + 1.4 ext., f/2.8L USM @ 225mm
Canon 5D Mrk I 45, 1/6
May 5. 2012, 19:37 GMT ISO 250

27
 Hvítserkur
Subject Hvítserkur is a basalt rock rising about 15 m just off the coast of Vatnsnes Peninsula in
Beach & Geology the north of Iceland. The birds, which rest and nest on the rock have deposited quite a
Area few droppings, colouring the rock largely white, hence the name Hvít-serkur which means
North Iceland “white- shirt”.
Nearest town
The sea erosion has carved out two holes in the rock‘s foundation, giving it the distinct
Hvammstangi
features resembling a petrified monster, an animal of some sort or a troll. An old tale says
Access Hvítserkur was a troll from the Westfjords planning to break a church bell in a fjord a little
Car
further east but was caught by the sun and turned to stone.
GPS Coordinates
N65°36‘216‘‘ The coastal cliffs are a bit higher than Hvítserkur so the rock is not visible until one is at
W020°38‘372‘‘ the shore edge. There is a viewing platform, which is slightly higher than the rock so many
have climbed down to the shore below to get a better angle. It‘s not an official trail but it‘s
clearly visible. However, the path is loose and slippery so use your own judgement. On low
tide, it‘s almost possible to walk to Hvítserkur, or at least get quite close, but on high tide
it‘s 30-50 metres from the shore to the rock.

Directions Seasons
Hvítserkur is on the eastern shore of All year, but in winter always check the road
Vatnsnes peninsula in the north of Iceland. conditions and weather.
Approaching from the south/west, drive
along the Ring Road about 5-7 km east of Our recommendation
the turnoff to Hvammstangi, then take the The rock faces southwest so you are mostly
exit onto road 711 signposted on the left. shooting northeast. At sunrise, the rock is
Drive along road 711 for approximately mostly backlit while at sunset it is front-lit.
30 km, just a bit further than Ósar farm & A normal lens works fine.
hostel, to Hvítserkur parking area, clearly Try to photograph Hvítserkur near sunset
marked on the right. From the parking lot and on low tide. It could also be great as
it‘s a 2 min walk to the viewing platform. foreground for the northern lights.
Approaching along the Ring Road from the
north/east, turn onto road 716 which then
connects to road 711.

TIP
In winter, bring
crampons or spikes
to be able to walk
on icy slopes by the
waterfall.

28
Hvítserkur. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L IS II USM @ 58mm
Canon 5D mark iii f22, 1.3
June 14, 2013, 20:37 GMT ISO 100

29
 Hvítserkur. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L IS II USM @ 45mm
Canon 5D mark III f22, 1/30
July 14, 2014, 16:55 GMT ISO 200

30
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 Goðafoss
Subject Goðafoss means “Waterfall of the Gods” and the waterfall got its name in the year 1000
Waterfall when Iceland converted from the old Ásatrú-religion (Norse Heathenry) to Christianity.
Area According to the Book of Icelanders, the local chieftain and lawspeaker, Þorgeir
North Iceland Ljósvetningagoði, was given the authority to decide whether Christianity was to be adopted
Nearest town in Iceland. After the decision was made, it is said, he threw his statues of the old Viking
Akureyri and gods into the waterfall, as a symbol that the old religion had been discarded. The story
Húsavík is longer and more complex, but rather interesting. If you‘re interested in history, we
Access recommend you ask your guide for more details.
Car
It‘s possible to photograph Goðafoss from both the east and west side of the river – and
GPS Coordinates
N65°41’159’‘
head on, so there are plenty of angles and compositions. Goðafoss faces north, so it
W017°32’364’‘ doesn‘t get direct sunlight to the front of the falls. At midday, the sun is behind the
waterfall and you‘re shooting mostly south, against the sun. Even if it‘s not sunny, there is
a big difference in light between the falls and the sky. Therefore, it‘s best to photograph
Goðafoss in the twilight hours. The river, Skjálfandafljót, is muddy brown colour in summer
due to the sand and silt, but bluer and clearer in winter.

Directions best time to photograph Goðafoss on clear

Goðafoss is by the Ring Road in the north, summer days. If it‘s overcast, the clouds
about 50 km east of Akureyri (about half soften the light like a large softbox so you
an hour‘s drive), midway to Lake Mývatn don‘t get the problems with high contrast
(see page 34). There is an iconic yellow and big shadows. Sunrise and sunset hours
building on the east side of the river, are always a good time to photograph
Fosshóll, but the main parking lot is on the most things, but this is particularly true of
west side, marked “Goðafoss”. It‘s very easy Goðafoss.
to find.
Our little secret
There is a footbridge across the river and
On the west side of the falls, the surefooted
parking on both sides, although it‘s a
and brave-hearted can go a bit into the
considerably shorter walk from the west
slow running stream to get some different
side parking area.
angles. Just don‘t fall in! There are also
some cliffs and big rocks on that side that
Seasons
offer different perspectives. Use caution
All year, but in winter please check the road
when clambering over the rocks, as they
conditions and weather forecast.
can be slippery.
Goðafoss is so close to the Arctic Circle
On the east side, a trail leads down to the
that the sun just barely sets around the
water surface, which gives a more level
summer solstice – but, unfortunately, there
angle to the falls, whereas the angles from
are hills and low mountains that block the
the top are shooting downwards to the falls.
sun from reaching the falls when the sun is
at its lowest angle. Nights are probably the This trail is quite rough and can be
treacherous in winter.
TIP
Wide angle lens, a
polarizer and split
neutral density
filters.

32
Goðafoss in winter. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D mark i f9, 1/6
anuary 25, 2011, 11:01 GMT ISO 100

Goðafoss in autumn. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 16mm

Canon 5D mark iii f22, 1/6
September 17, 2014, 07:58 GMT ISO 100

33
 Námaskarð
Subject Námaskarð (“Mine Pass”) is a geothermal area just east of Lake Mývatn, near Krafla. The
Geothermal name derives from the sulphur mining which occurred there from 15th – 19th century.
Area
North Iceland
The sulphurous boiling mud springs, solfataras, the blowing steam vents and fumaroles,
along with the multi coloured clay, provide an excellent playing field for photographing
Nearest town
colours, tones and shapes. Surface water seeps into the ground, heats up and is brought
Reykjahlíð at Lake
Mývatn back to the surface together with dissolved minerals, hence the fascinating colours.
Access The acidic clay is completely devoid of life so there is no vegetation in the geothermal
Car area.
GPS Coordinates The pyramid shaped steam vents can work both as foreground when capturing a large
N65°38‘480‘‘
scene or for abstract close ups. The cracked mud can provide interesting foreground and
W016°48‘438‘‘
leading lines.

Directions Seasons
Námaskarð is just a few kilometres from All year
Reykjahlíð, the village at Lake Mývatn. Drive
from Reykjahlíð east along the Ring Road, Our recommendation
past the blue water on the left and the Try to be there early, as Námaskarð has the
Nature Baths on the right, up the S-curved best light at sunrise.
hill through the mountain pass. Once Námaskarð is ideal to visit together with
through the pass and down the hill on the Krafla, Leirhnjúkur, Dettifoss and Selfoss,
other side, the hot spring area is visible on each a stunning photographic location, so
the right hand side. The sign says Hverir, stay a few nights at Lake Mývatn.
which means “hot springs”.
There are paths and platforms; ropes to
mark where it‘s safe to go and where it‘s
not.

TIP
Your shoes will get
very muddy, and so
will the legs on your
tripod. Bring a brush Want to learn more?
to clean them, or an
extra pair of shoes Read this article on Lake Mývatn:
and a plastic bag http://www.icelandontheweb.com/articles-on-iceland/iceland-regions/north-iceland/myvatn-lake
for the shoes you
wore in the mud.

34
Blowing steam vent in Námaskarð. Photo by Finn EF70-200 mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 140mm
Canon 5D Mrk II f18, 1/100
July 16. 2010, 16:35 GMT ISO 100

Boiling mud pits in Námaskarð. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 35mm
Canon 5D mark III f22, 0,5
eptember 18, 2014, 08:01 GMT ISO 100

35
 Krafla &
Subject
Geothermal
Area
North Iceland
Leirhnjúkur
Krafla and Leirhnjúkur are volcanoes east of Lake Mývatn. There are boiling mud pits
Nearest town
Reykjahlíð by Lake
against the light and colourful clay. A bit further the steam rises from the very black lava
Mývatn offering Mordor-like atmosphere. Leirhnjúkur (“Clay Peak”) is a rhyolite formation, rising
about 50 m above the surrounding lava field. The lava is very porous so rain easily seeps
Access
Car down into the ground where the geothermal warmth heats up the water to and above
boiling point, dissolving some minerals that float with the steam and water up to the
GPS Coordinates
N65°38’480‘’ surface.
W016°48’438’‘ Mt. Krafla is a central volcano with a caldera which is largely filled with younger
formations, and underneath Leirhnjúkur there is a magma chamber at a depth of only 3
km.
The black steaming lava originates from the Krafla fires, a series of fissure eruptions and
magma movements that lasted almost 9 years, from December 1975 to September 1984.
The length of the fissure zone is about 11 km and the lava field covers some 35 km2.
This is relevant to explain how interesting this place is, not just for geologists but also for
landscape photographers. It offers endless opportunities for capturing shapes and tones,
abstract close ups and large wide scenes without any man made distractions.

Directions where the parking lot can be found, on the

Krafla is just a few kilometres away from left hand side. From the parking lot there is
Reykjahlið, the village at Lake Mývatn. a flat and easy walk to the first mud pools
Drive from Reykjahlið east along the Ring with some wooden stairs and a viewing
Road, past the blue water on the left and platform. After that, the paths into the dark
the Nature Baths on the right, up the lava get a bit more rugged and slightly
S-curved hill through the mountain pass. uphill.
Once through the pass and down the hill on
the other side, the hot spring area marked Seasons
“Hverir” is on the right hand side, but on the Spring, summer and autumn but in winter
left there is a sign for Krafla. you can only get as far the geothermal
power station as the last hill is not cleared
Drive past the power plant, under the
for snow.
pipelines (this will become clear upon
sighting) and up another S-curved hill

TIP
Bring a headlight
if you plan to
photograph at
sunset.

36
Crater in the dark rugged lava by Krafla. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 100mm
Canon 5D mark iii f25, 3.2
September 19, 2014, 17:33 GMT ISO 200

Geothermal area by Leirhnjúkur. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 24mm

Canon 5D mark iii f22, 2.0
September 19, 2014, 18:20 GMT ISO 100

37
 Dettifoss
Subject Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe. It‘s 45 m tall and 100 m wide and it‘s
Waterfall in one of the largest glacier rivers in Iceland, Jökulsá á Fjöllum. In summer, the water is so
Area muddy brown from the sand and silt the river carries that the waterfall looks almost like
North Iceland it‘s pouring down wet cement. In winter, there is much less water in the river and very little
Nearest town sand and silt so the river takes on a much bluer colour.
Reykjahlíð by Lake
Mývatn A few hundred metres upstream, there is a smaller waterfall, Selfoss (not to be confused
with the town Selfoss in the south of Iceland), while another waterfall, Hafragilsfoss, is a
Access
Car little further downstream. There are hiking trails to both these waterfalls from Dettifoss.
GPS Coordinates It‘s possible to photograph Dettifoss both from the east and the west bank of
West side: Jökulsárgljúfur canyon. The waterfall faces north so you are generally photographing
N65°48’757” southeast or southwest, depending on which side you‘re on. The east side is better in the
W016°24’034” morning where the sun would be behind you, while the west side is better in the afternoon
East side: and until sunset.
N65°49’155”
W016°22’765”
Directions road which is passable for all vehicles. The
Coming from Reykjahlíð by Mývatn, drive road is cleared for snow a couple of times a
east along the Ring Road. There are two week in winter but not every day, so please
roads to Dettifoss, both of which branch check the road conditions. In summer time,
off the Ring Road, one on each side of the it’s possible to continue on road 862 to
river. Vesturdalur, Hljóðaklettar and Ásbyrgi on a
gravel road.
Road 862 along the west riverbank is
closer, 26 km east of Mývatn, and from the The road on the east side, number 864, is
Ring Road it‘s 24 km to the parking area on not cleared in the wintertime.
the west side of Dettifoss. From the parking
lot it‘s a 5 min easy walk to the waterfall. Seasons
Almost all year, but in winter access
Road 864 along the east riverbank is
depends on snow conditions and how
further, 40 km east of Mývatn. Just after the
frequently the road administration clears
bridge across the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum,
the west road 862 for snow.
turn left and drive 28 km north from the
Ring Road on a gravel road. From the Our recommendation
FUN FACT parking lot, there is a well-marked trail to Bring food and drinks for the day, since
Dettifoss waterfall both waterfalls, Dettifoss and Selfoss.
was used in the there are no shops or cafés nearby.
opening scene of Road 862, from road 1 north to Dettifoss
Ridley Scott’s sci-fi along the west riverbank, is a new, paved
film Prometheus.

TIP
Bring a small
umbrella to avoid
getting the spray
from the waterfall
on your lens.

38
Dettifoss. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm f/2.8L USM @ 23mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f11, 0,5
September 18 2014, 18:24 GMT ISO 400

Dettifoss. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 24mm

Canon 5D f5.6, 1/125
November 11, 2006, 14:40 GMT ISO 100

39
 Selfoss
Subject Selfoss waterfall (not to be confused with the town Selfoss in the south of Iceland) is a
Waterfall few hundred metres upstream from Dettifoss falls. Whereas Dettifoss is one very large
Area and powerful waterfall, Selfoss is more a series of not so powerful cascades where the
North Iceland river falls off the cliffs in many different sized streams. There is a main stream which
Nearest town generates a lot of spray at the bottom of the canyon, which can be a bit of a challenge for
Reykjahlíð by Lake photographers, as it‘s difficult to get texture in the spray and it just looks like water on the
Mývatn lens. On the west side, there are series of waterfalls with less powerful streams, so there is
Access less spray and it‘s easier to get them with long exposures without losing too much texture.
Car + short hike
It‘s possible to photograph Selfoss both from the east and the west bank of Jökulsárgljúfur
GPS Coordinates
West side:
canyon. The falls face north and northeast so you are generally photographing southeast
N65°48’757” or southwest, depending on which side you‘re on. The east side is better in the morning
W016°24’034” where the sun would be behind you, while the west side is better in the afternoon and until
East side: sunset.
N65°49’155” To access Selfoss, there are hiking trails on both sides of the river, from Dettifoss waterfall.
W016°22’765”

Directions Road 862, from road 1 north to Dettifoss

Coming from Reykjahlíð by Mývatn, drive along the west riverbank, is a new, paved
east along the Ring Road. There are two road which is passable for all vehicles. The
roads to Dettifoss, both of which branch road is cleared for snow a couple of times a
off the Ring Road, one on each side of the week in winter but not every day, so please
river. check the road conditions. In summer time,
it’s possible to continue on road 862 to
Road 862 along the west riverbank is
Vesturdalur, Hljóðaklettar and Ásbyrgi on a
closer, 26 km east of Mývatn, and from the
gravel road.
Ring Road it‘s 24 km to the parking area on
the west side of Dettifoss. From the parking The road on the east side, number 864, is
lot it‘s a 5 min easy walk to the Detifoss not cleared in the wintertime.
waterfall, then the trail splits and its about
700m walk from Dettifoss to Selfoss. Seasons
Almost all year, but in winter access
Road 864 along the east riverbank is
depends on snow conditions and how
further, 40 km east of Mývatn. Just after the
frequently the road administration clears
bridge across the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum,
the west road 862 for snow.
turn left and drive 28 km north from the
Ring Road on a gravel road. From the Our recommendation
parking lot, there is a well-marked trail to Bring food and drinks for the day, as there
both waterfalls, Dettifoss and Selfoss. are no shops or cafés nearby.

40
The sun sets early in January at Selfoss. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm f/2.8L USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D f22, 0.6
January 26, 2011, 15:08 GMT ISO 100

Selfoss. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm f/2.8L USM @ 23mm

Canon 5D Mrk III f22, 1/6
September 19, 2014, 11:11 GMT ISO 100

41
 Hljóðaklettar
Subject Hljóðaklettar (“Echo Rocks”) are the remains of ancient volcanoes which have been heavily
Mountains eroded by the Jökulsá river, leaving only the volcanic plugs behind. It’s an extraordinary
Area site where you can listen to the cliff acoustic near the river and walk amid the unique
North East Iceland geological phenomena. Basalt columns in various shapes abound; cliffs, honeycomb
Nearest town weathering and caves. One of the first rocks visible as you walk down from the parking lot
Reykjahlíð by is the giant Tröllið (“The Troll”).
Mývatn / Húsavík /
Kópasker This area has many photographic possibilities. You can photograph the grand vista, the
Access
flow of the powerful river among the rock formations, or you can survey the honeycomb
Car + hiking patterns for abstracts - the options are endless. The plant and bird life is also quite rich,
GPS Coordinates
depending on the season.
N65°55‘871” Explore the cave Kirkjan (“The Church”) and take the trail to Rauðhólar (“Red Hills”), a row
W016° 32‘830” of scoria cones that are red in colour, as the name suggests. You can experience a great
variety of geological phenomena during this fascinating walk. The views to the canyon in
the north and Hljóðaklettar in the south are outstanding.

Directions Our recommendation

Hljóðaklettar is only a short distance from From the parking lot, there are hiking trails
Ásbyrgi. In summer, it is also accessible suitable for everybody. The “Hljóðaklettar
from the west side of Dettifoss, so it’s ideal Circle” is about an hour’s hike, plus time
to visit Dettifoss, Hljóðaklettar and Ásbyrgi for photography. Bring a telephoto lens to
together. capture the abstracts in the rock formations.
From the petrol station at Ásbyrgi, drive
about 1 km on road 85, towards Húsavík, Geology
then turn south (left) onto road 862. Follow Hljóðaklettar in the canyon Jökulsárgljúfur
road 862 for about 10 km, then turn left is located in the palagonite belt of
where a sign points to Vesturdalur. northern Iceland. The surrounding area is
geologically recent, with the oldest surface
Coming from the west side of Dettifoss, strata dating from the last interglacial,
there is a gravel road continuing north at a grey basalt lavas that flowed from shield
hairpin turn, about 1 km above the parking volcanoes such as Grjótháls. During the
lot. That’s road 862; and from there, it’s last Ice Age, subglacial eruptions formed
about 25 km to the turn to Vesturdalur. isolated palagonite mountains. Several
Drive down the hill into Vesturdalur, then impressive waterfalls, including Selfoss,
turn left and follow the road to the last Dettifoss, Hafragilsfoss and Réttarfoss are
parking lot. From there, walk the largest part of the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum, which
path, in a northeasterly direction. The trails runs through the canyon.
are marked and there are information signs. It is thought that Jökulsárgljúfur canyon and
Road 862 is a gravel road but it is passable its surroundings have been carved into the
for normal 2WD cars. bedrock through a sequence of catastrophic
glacial floods, or jökulhlaups, after the end
Seasons of the last glaciation. The last such flood
June to October. occurred probably around 2000 years ago,
Please note: Road 862, between road 85 (Ásbyrgi) but the canyon topography still clearly
and Dettifoss, is closed during winter time, due to
snow or wet, muddy road conditions and does not shows its erosive force.
open until early June.

42
Honeycomb weathering at Hljóðaklettar. Photo by Finn EF24-70mm /f2.8L USM @ 70mm
Canon 5D mark ii f4,5, 1/60
September 19, 2009, 15:41 GMT ISO 200

Hexagon formations in Hljóðaklettar. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm + 1.4 ext., f/2.8L USM @ 280mm
Canon 5D mark iii f7.1, 1/50
July 1, 2014, 12:03 GMT ISO 200

43
 Hengifoss &
Subject
Waterfall
Area
East Iceland
Litlanefsfoss
Hengifoss is Iceland‘s third highest waterfall, 128 m high. It drops off a plateau into a
Nearest town
Egilsstaðir
horseshoe-shaped gorge, which is like a geological layer cake: different lava layers and
sediment are very obvious and highlighted with a few very red layers. Hengifoss faces
Access
almost due south, so on a sunny day the light is best shortly after noon. The waterfall falls
Car + hiking uphill
off U-shaped cliffs, so on sunny days there are strong shadows mornings and afternoons
GPS Coordinates but the sun also brings out the red colour in the layers.
N65°04’403’‘
W014°52’832’‘ From the parking lot at the bottom, it‘s an uphill walk of less than an hour but you are
likely to spend more time as there are many motifs following the river and the gorge. The
river drops down a gentle slope with a few smaller waterfalls and rapids.
Litlanefsfoss is midway down, surrounded by different hexagonal basalt columns. There
is a rather obvious point on the path along the gorge where it‘s easy to take a photo of
Litlanefsfoss but photographers often want to get even closer. Please note that extreme
caution is needed here: the edges are not to be trusted; the scree is loose and it‘s very
easy to fall.
FUN FACT
There are fossilized Directions Seasons
trunks of coniferous Coming from Egilsstaðir, drive to the The road to Hengifoss and Litlanefsfoss is
trees in rock layers other end of Lake Lagarfljót: first along accessible all year, with a few exceptions
from the latter part
the Ring Road, then along road 931 to in winter, but the hiking path up along the
of the Tertiary age,
which is evidence Hallormsstaður for about 15 minutes, until river can be a challenge when there is a lot
of warmer climate. the road turns around the lake, crosses the of snow and ice. Many prefer photographing
bridge and the waterfall can be sighted in waterfalls on overcast days but for direct
the hillside. At the T-intersection after the sunlight on the falls, the best time would be
bridge, turn left to reach the parking lot. shortly after lunch until mid afternoon.
TIP
Hengifoss is about 35 km from Egilsstaðir.
Look also for motifs
other than the
waterfalls.
At the end of the
path, where most
people photograph
Hengifoss, there
are very nice
rock formations
on the east side
for abstract
photography.
For the brave-
hearted and Want to learn more?
surefooted, there
are good angles off Read this article on East Iceland:
the path: down by http://www.icelandontheweb.com/articles-on-iceland/iceland-regions/east-iceland
the river or up in
the scree.

44
Hengifoss. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 24mm
Canon 5D mark iii f22, 0,5
July 21, 2014, 16:43 GMT ISO 100

Litlanefsfoss. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L USM @ 16mm

Canon 5D mark iii f8, 1/10
July 20, 2014, 15:32 GMT ISO 250

45
 Klifbrekkufossar
Subject Klifbrekkufossar is a series of waterfalls in the River Fjarðará cascading in multiple steps
Waterfalls down into the fjord called Mjóifjörður. The dark murky cliffs against the green grassy slopes
Area create a dramatic frame for the waterfalls.
East Iceland
Apart from the obvious comprehensive photograph capturing the whole scene, there are
Nearest town
lots of possibilities to isolate individual falls or create abstracts with a telephoto lens.
Egilsstaðir
Access
Car
Directions Seasons
Coming from Egilsstaðir, drive along road The road to Mjóifjörður is not cleared in
GPS Coordinates
92 towards Reyðarfjörður for about 9 km, winter and the snowfalls determine when it
N65°10’494’‘
W014°04’427’‘ then turn left onto road 953 to Mjóifjörður opens up in the spring and when it closes
and follow it for another 20 km. First, the in the autumn. After a snow-heavy winter,
road goes into a valley then up a heath, the road can open as late as June and it
before descending quite sharply in a series can close with the first big snowfall in the
of hairpin turns down a steep mountain autumn.
TIP side. The waterfalls will be visible on the
Go for a coffee or right hand side, just before reaching the
ice cream at the
foothills at the bottom of the fjord. Park
little village on the
northern (left) side at the signpost, then walk towards the
of the fjord. waterfalls along an easy path.

Klifbrekkufossar. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM @ 59mm

Canon 5D mark iii f11, 1/6
July 22, 2014, 11:38 GMT ISO 100

46
Want to come along?

[email protected] phone: + 354 588 1300

 Mjóifjörður
Subject Mjóifjörður is a very narrow fjord – which is exactly what the name means – in East
Beach & Mountains Iceland. The photographic attraction of Mjóifjörður is that it is so narrow, surrounded by
Area steep mountains and the water is often mirror flat. There are only a few people who live
East Iceland in the fjord so it’s mostly free from man-made distractions, apart from the old rusted ship
Nearest town stranded at the bottom of the fjord. The marooned ship can serve as interesting foreground
Egilsstaðir for a spooky photo, especially when the east fog creeps in.
Access Farther out in the fjord, past the little village, there are nice waterfalls, magma intrusions
Car
and other interesting landscape features on the route towards the lighthouse at Dalatangi.
GPS Coordinates
N65°19’440’‘ The fjord is 18 km long but only a few hundred metres across.
W013°78’690’‘
Directions allow almost 1,5 hours for the drive each
Coming from Egilsstaðir, drive along road way.
92 towards Reyðarfjörður for about 9 km, Note: There is another Mjóifjörður in the
then turn left onto road 953 to Mjóifjörður Westfjords, literally on the other side of
and follow it for another 20 km. First, the Iceland – so don’t trust your GPS or Google
road goes into a valley then up a heath, blindly.
before descending quite sharply in a series
of hairpin turns down a steep mountain Seasons
side. Klifbrekkufossar waterfalls will be The road to Mjóifjörður is not cleared in
visible on the right hand side, just before winter and the snowfalls determine when it
reaching the foothills at the bottom of the opens up in the spring and when it closes
fjord. When at the bottom, drive the road on in the autumn. After a snow-heavy winter,
the left, past the stranded ship and out the the road can open as late as June and it
fjord on the north side. can close with the first big snowfall in the
From Egilsstaðir to the village in Mjóifjörður autumn.
is only 41,3 km but it’s a slow road so

FUN FACT
Dalatangi is the
easternmost
inhabited place in
Iceland.

TIP
Go for a coffee or
ice cream at the
little village on the
northern (left) side
of the fjord.

48
Panorama of Mjóifjörður. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM @ 47mm
Canon 5D mark iii f11, 1/100
July 22, 2014, 12:09 GMT ISO 100

Waterfalls in Mjóifjörður. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM @ 24mm

Canon 5D mark iii f11, 1/25
July 22, 2014, 14:14 GMT ISO 100

49
 Stokksnes
Subject Stokksnes is a small peninsula a few miles (16 km) east of the town Höfn in Hornafjörður
Beach & Mountains and very easy to find. The attractions of this location are the stunning beach and the
Area colourful steep slopes of Mt Vestrahorn (“West-Horn”) that are often half-covered in
East Iceland clouds, giving them a mysterious feel.
Nearest town
In the foreground, you can have the black sand beach curving a leading line towards the
Höfn
mountain or the reflections in the wet black sand inlet. The coastline with the mountainous
Access backdrop gives endless photo opportunities so we encourage you to take your time
Car
exploring the landscape.
GPS Coordinates
N64°14‘394‘‘ The area is rich with birdlife, including the Arctic terns, which can be a bit aggressive when
W014°57‘847‘‘ nesting in summer.
Please note that the landowner may charge an admission fee to his land. He has opened a
small café, which will most likely only be open during the summer months.

Directions Our recommendation

From Höfn, head north on road 99 for about Mt Vestrahorn is to the east, so you are
5 km, then turn right onto the Ring Road mostly photographing from the west, facing
and continue for about 6 km. Just before east or northeast. Afternoon or evening is
reaching the tunnel Almannaskarðsgöng our favourite time to photograph Vestrahorn
on the Ring Road, take the very last turnoff from Stokksnes, as then the soft light brings
to the right, to Stokksnes. The large radar out the colours and reflections. However,
station is easy to spot. Follow the gravel this is also a great location on dark cloudy
road to the café and parking area. days for dramatic long exposures.

Seasons
This is a great location for all seasons,
never crowded although it‘s estimated that
around 40,000 people visit Stokksnes,
mostly in summer.
FUN FACT
The Arctic tern
does the longest
migration flight of
any bird, traversing
from the Arctic in
the North to the
Antarctic in the
South – and back,
every year.

TIP
Enjoy a tasty
langoustine in Höfn
in one of the local
restaurants.

50
Mt Vestrahorn reflecting from Stokksnes. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 24mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f22, 1/3
July 17. 2014, 17:37 GMT ISO 100

Mt Vestrahorn. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 41mm

Canon 5D Mrk III f22, 1/6
July 17. 2014, 17:00 GMT ISO 100

51
 Jökulsárlón
Subject Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon is a world class destination for landscape photographers and
Glacier certainly one of the most popular places to visit in Iceland, both by photographers and
Area tourists. In a magnificent setting, ice breaks off the glacier edge into a big lagoon that fills
South Iceland up with luminous icebergs in a myriad of shapes. The glacier and the mountains in the
Nearest town background add to the drama of the landscape.
Höfn
The icebergs provide a great foreground for northern lights photos and, on calm days when
Access the lagoon is mirror flat, the reflections can be quite spectacular.
Car
GPS Coordinates The glaciers were at their largest around 1890 and the edge of the Breiðamerkurjökull
N64°02‘899‘‘ glacier bordering the lagoon is believed to have been only about 1km away from the coast.
W016°10‘807‘‘ A warm period starting around 1920 caused dramatic changes to the glacier and shortly
after a small lagoon began to form as the glacier retreated. The glacier lagoon has been
getting bigger ever since, by up to 200 m every year, as the glacier melts and retreats.
Jökulsárlón is now the deepest lake in Iceland, nearly 300 m deep.

Directions Our recommendation

Approaching from the west, Jökulsárlon Consider taking a boat tour on the lagoon,
glacier lagoon is about 56 km further east either on the amphibian (“duck”) boats or
from Skaftafell on road 1 (the Ring Road). the zodiacs.
Approaching from the east, Jökulsárlon is Use a normal lens or 24-70mm lens to
about 80 km further west from Höfn on capture the whole scene and a telephoto
road 1. for abstracts and close-ups of the ice. For
Jökulsárlón is easily spotted, as big auroras, use a wide-angle lens to capture
icebergs are visible by the road north of the as much of the sky as possible.
big bridge.

Seasons
All year.

FUN FACT
Parts of two James
Bond movies
were filmed at
Jökulsárlón.

TIP
The camera
measures light as if
it were coming off
an 18% gray object
but snow and ice
Want to learn more?
are much whiter Read this article on Jokulsarlon:
than the 18% gray, http://www.icelandontheweb.com/articles-on-iceland/see-do/wonders-of-iceland/jokulsarlon-glacier-lagoon/
so consider over-
exposing a bit.

52
Seals sunbathing in Jökulsárlón. Photo by Finn EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 70mm
Canon 5D Mrk II f11, 1/160
February 23, 2010, 11:50 GMT ISO 100

Iceberg in Jökulsárlón. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 105mm

Canon 5D Mrk III f10, 1/100 sec
August 25, 2012, 10:06 GMT ISO 100

53
 Icy Beach
Subject The location is on the other side of the road from Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, where the
Beach & Glacier smaller icebergs strand on the black sand beach after being washed down the shortest
Area glacier river in Iceland. Whether there is more ice on the west side or the east side of the
South Iceland river depends on the wind direction, so it‘s impossible to say which side is better.
Nearest town
The blue ice against the black sand beach and the seawater trickling past the stranded ice
Höfn
provide hours of fun photography.
Access
Car
Directions Seasons
GPS Coordinates
Driving from the west, Jökulsárlon is about All year.
N64°02‘650‘‘
W016°10‘652‘‘ 56 km further east from Skaftafell on road
1. Our recommendation
No surprise that sunrise and sunset hours
Driving from the east, Jökulsárlon is about
provide the best light. At other times, there
80 km further west from Höfn on road 1.
is usually too much light, so consider
The turnoff to the beach and a place to park bringing filters to slow down the shutter
are on either side of the tall single lane speed.
bridge. Do exercise caution driving across
it. Please do not attempt to drive further, as
you will get stuck in the soft sand – and it‘s
illegal.

TIP
Wash the tripod legs
after each session;
the salty sea and
the fine sand are
tough on tripod
joints.

54
Ice on the black sand beach. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 30mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f22, 1,5sec
September 3, 2014, 10:06 GMT ISO 50

Ice in the water. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 85mm

Canon 5D Mrk III f22, 1/4
January 28, 2011, 10:34 GMT ISO 100

55
 Fjallsárlón
Subject Fjallsárlón is a glacial lagoon, much lesser known than the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon but
Glacier in many ways it is more photogenic. Fjallsárlón is smaller and the viewer is therefore only a
Area short distance away from the glacier, which crumbles down the steep mountainside setting
South Iceland amazing icebergs adrift in the lagoon. The backdrop is much closer and more dramatic.
Nearest town
Unlike Jökulsárlón, there is no tide into Fjallsárlón, so the icebergs melt more slowly, don‘t
Höfn
turn as often and, in winter, the lagoon is more likely to freeze over.
Access
Car
Directions Seasons
GPS Coordinates
Fjallsárlón is about 10 km west of All year
N64°00‘662‘‘
W016°23‘325‘‘ Jökulsárlón. (Jökulsárlon is about 56 km
east of Skaftafell; or, about 80 km west of Our little secret
Höfn.) It‘s possible to get a lot closer to Fjallsárlón
than the marked parking area. About 1
Approaching from the west, e.g. from
km further west from the marked turnoff,
Skaftafell, drive eastwards along road 1
between the bridge across Fjallsá glacier
(the Ring Road) for approximately 46 km,
river and the bridge across the smaller
then turn left at the sign marked Fjallsárlón,
Hrútá river, there is an unmarked turnoff.
about 10 km before reaching Jökulsárlon.
Drive along the gravel road about 2 km
Approaching from the east, e.g. from Höfn, and, where the road splits, turn left and
drive westwards along road 1 for about 80 continue until you reach a small parking lot.
km to Jökulsárlon, then continue on road There is a track, blocked by stones, leading
1 for another 10 km or so, until you reach towards the glacier. Walk to the top of the
a sign marked Fjallsárlón north of the road hill and you will have a much closer and
that leads to a small hill with an overview to better vantage point to the glacial lagoon
Fjallsárlón. and the crumbling ice.

The big picture of Fjallsárlón. Photo by Hawk EF70-200 mm, f/2.8L IS USM @ 195mm
Canon 5D Mrk I f16, 1/80
February 23, 2010, 13:48 GMT ISO 200

56
Iceberg in Fjallsárlón reflecting in calm waters. Photo by Hawk EF70-200 mm, f/2.8L IS USM @ 105mm
Canon 5D Mrk I f32, 1/13
July 5, 2009, 10:06 GMT ISO 100

57
 Svínafellsjökull
Subject Svínafellsjökull is a glacier tongue crumbling down the mountain side into a narrow valley
Glacier surrounded by steep mountain ridges. The creviced glacier with its blue ice and sandy
Area streaks provides strong tonal patterns and the steep mountains create dramatic framing.
South Iceland
You can play with all your lenses at Svínafellsjökull; from the wide-angle to capture the
Nearest town
whole scene, to a telephoto lens where you zoom in on the textures and shapes in the ice.
Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Access Svínafellsjökull is one of several glaciers located in Skaftafell National Park, which has
Car + short hike become part of Vatnajökull National Park, and it is quite close to the Skaftafell Visitor
GPS Coordinates
Centre.
N64°00‘506‘‘
W016°52‘774‘‘ Directions Seasons
Driving from the west, it‘s about 70 km All year (but the last 2km along the gravel
from Kirkjubæjarklaustur to Skaftafell Visitor road is not cleared for snow in winter)
Centre. Driving from the east, Skaftafell is
about 136 km from Höfn, or 56 km from Our recommendation
Jökulsárlón. Consider buying a guided glacier hike tour.
Information is available at the Skaftafell
Approaching along the Ring Road (road
Visitor Centre. Road 998 leads up to the
1) from either direction, the turnoff to
visitor centre, 2 km from road 1.
Svínafellsjökull is clearly signposted,
between Skaftafell and Shell Freysnes
(fuel station). Drive the gravel road to the
Our little secret
Just after turning off the main road and onto
end, about 2km from Ring Road. Walk the
the gravel road towards Svínafellsjökull,
path through the gate, along the mountain
there is often a small pond on the right
side on the left, a few hundred metres and
hand side of the road which can give a
slightly upwards, until you see into the
nice reflection of Iceland‘s highest peak,
glacier filled valley and the mountains.
Hvannadalshnjúkur.

FUN FACT
The scene in
Batman Begins,
which is supposed
to take place at
high altitude in the
Himalayas, was
filmed here, 50 m Want to learn more?
above sea level in
Iceland. Parts of Read this article on Vatnajokull:
Game of Thrones http://www.icelandontheweb.com/articles-on-iceland/nature/glaciers/vatnajokull/
were also filmed at
Svínafellsjökull.

58
Svínafellsjökull. Photo by Hawk EF600 mm, f/4L IS II USM @ 600mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f27, 1/60
September 11, 2011, 08:48 GMT ISO 200

Iceland’s highest peak reflecting in the pond by Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm, f/2.8L IS USM @ 55mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f22, 1/6
Svínafellsjökull. September 11, 2011, 09:00 GMT ISO 100

59
 Fjaðrárgljúfur
Subject Fjaðrárgljúfur is about a 2 km long, steep and narrow canyon, not far from
Mountains Kirkjubæjarklaustur. The sheer vertical walls are up to 100 m high, with interesting shapes
Area and spires.
South Iceland
There is a path along the eastern side of the canyon with viewpoints down into the gorge,
Nearest town
where a small S-curved river guides the eye further into the ravine. The edge of the canyon
Kirkjubæjarklaustur
is also curved rather than straight in many places, so for a photographer it‘s an interesting
Access walk searching for new angles and compositions. The grassy slopes against the brown rock
Car
faces also offer opportunities for experimenting with colours and tones. The canyon faces
GPS Coordinates south and the sun is at its highest position around 1 pm (because Iceland is not quite in
N63°46‘275‘‘
W018°10‘338‘‘
the right time zone).
(Lower parking)
N63°46‘766‘‘
Directions Further north, road F206 leads to Laki
W018°10‘104‘‘ From the southwest, e.g. Vík, drive and Lakagígar, the Laki Craters (see page
(Upper parking) along Route 1 for approximately 65 141), some 50 km inland but, as all
km eastwards, towards the town of F-roads, it‘s only suitable for 4x4 vehicles.
Kirkjubæjarklaustur. About 9 km before
reaching Kirkjubæjarklaustur, turn left onto Seasons
road 206, which becomes mountain road All year.
F206, marked Fjaðrárgljúfur and Laki. Don‘t
get confused by the Fjaðrárgljúfur sign Our recommendation
visible in the big lava field, well before the If you have a driver, it‘s easier to have the
Route 1 and road 206 / F206 intersection. driver drop you off at the upper parking
Although from there it‘s possible to see the area and walk down the hill to the lower
opening of the canyon in the distance, to parking area. It‘s only a 10-15 min easy
get to the canyon itself, continue further downhill walk, but that‘s not counting the
east along Route 1. time spent photographing - which will
probably be considerably longer.
From the southeast, e.g.
Kirkjubæjarklaustur, drive along Route 1 Take all the little detours to different
for approximately 5-6 km westwards, then viewpoints to find a favourite angle and
turn right onto road 206 / F206 towards composition.
Fjaðrárgljúfur and Laki.
Our little secret
After driving for 2 km on road F206, there is There are no trails or paths down from the
a sharp turn to the right – and two options: top of the canyon to the bottom and the
a) Continuing straight ahead leads to the river keeps curving from one side to the
lower parking area on the right hands side other, so it‘s not possible to keep one‘s feet
a few hundred metres down the hill, just dry inside the canyon. However, if you bring
before the bridge. It‘s clearly marked and waders, or extra shoes / “tevas”, you can
there is a WC. walk quite far into the canyon, which is both
fun and can result in many great images.
b) Turning right and driving approximately
The river is usually not deep, nor with a
1 km up the hill leads to a sign for
strong current. However, further inward, the
TIP Fjaðrárgljúfur, a small parking area and a
There is a lot of canyon narrows with falls and current that is
path leading westwards to the canyon, and
green, which is more powerful. The water level depends on
then down along the canyon to the lower
brightest in colour the weather of course, so please use good
on overcast days. parking area.
judgement.

60
Fjaðrárgljúfur. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 90mm
Canon 5D mark iii f32, 13
October 4, 2014, 09:33 GMT ISO 100

Geology The runoff from the lake flowed where the top of the
Fjaðrárgljúfur was most likely formed at the end of the canyon is now. However, when the glacier rivers filled
last Ice Age, about 9000 years ago, when a glacier up the lake with sand and silt, there was no lake to
retreated and a lake formed above the canyon, behind slow down the force of the river which then dug out the
hard resistant rock. canyon. Water always seeks the path of least resistance
but it‘s also a powerful force of erosion.

61
 Fjaðrárgljúfur. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L II USM @ 24mm
Canon 5D mark iii f22, 1.3
October 4, 2014, 10:01 GMT ISO 100

62
 HÓTEL LAKI

www.hotellaki.is
Experience the magic of nature in
GREAT
the countryside, the bright summer
LOCATION nights or the darkness of the winter
Conveniently located for many of south with the northern lights.
Iceland‘s photographic destinations:
We strive to fulfill all your needs and exceed
Laki Craters
your expectations by offering you simply the
Iceland‘s largest lava field Eldhraun
Landmannalaugar
best possible service in the most salubrious
Eldgjá of surroundings. We offer 24 hour room service
The glaciers and we have free wifi in all our rooms.
...and the list goes on.

Comfortable
rooms with
a nice view

find us on

Hótel Laki I Efri-Vík, 880 Kirkjubæjarklaustri I Tel: +354 412 4600 I [email protected]
 Reynisdrangar
Subject Reynisdrangar are sea stacks rising from the ocean just off the south shore near Vík. The
Beach highest one rises to 66 m. According to legend, two trolls were trying to pull a three-sailed
Area ship to shore but were hit by the sun and turned to stone before they could reach the
South Iceland safety of the mountain Reynisfjall. The sea stacks can be photographed from both the east
Nearest town and the west side of the mountain.
Vík
The town of Vík is on the east side of the mountain so you‘re shooting west: at sunrise with
Access Reynisdrangar front lit and at sunset backlit. In winter, when the days are short and the
Car
sun low in the sky, it‘s possible to get the sun setting between the sea stacks.
GPS Coordinates
N63°24’251’‘ At Reynisfjara beach, on the west side you can get much closer to the sea stacks. At the
W019°02’707’‘ southwest corner of Reynisfjall there are beautiful hexagonal basalt columns along the
(Reynisfjara, west of shoreline and on low to mid tide it‘s possible to go eastwards along the cliffs into the
Reynisdrangar) cavern Hálsanefshellir. Aside from the basalt columns there are other rock patterns and
N63°24’857‘’ in summer a few puffins reside in the cliffs. The basalt columns and rock patterns can
W019°00’868‘’ make for a nice foreground to the sea stacks and/or for abstract photos. The black sand
(Vík beach, east of
Reynisdrangar)
provides a great contrast to the foaming white water and the patterns of incoming and
outgoing waves.

Directions along the Ring Road to road 215 and follow

The town of Vík is easy to find on the south it to the end, about 6 km, where there is a
shore and the sea stacks are visible from parking lot.
the town. You can walk from the petrol Both places are very easy to find.
station to the black sand beach or drive
into the town through Víkurbraut to the Seasons
parking lot a bit further west which is closer All year.
to the stacks.
Reynisfjara is on the west side of the Our recommendation
mountain. Drive approximately 5 km west Be very careful of the waves and the tide.

TIP
Rinse your tripod
afterwards with
fresh water as the
salt and sand is
tough on all gear.

64
Reynisdrangar on a windy day from Vík. Photo by Finn EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 200mm
Canon 5D mark iii f19, 1/45
Februrary 22, 2014 ISO 200

Reynisdrangar from the shore at Reynisfjara. Photo by Finn EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM @ 50mm
Canon 5D mark iii f19, 1/250
Februrary 22, 2014 ISO 200

65
 Dyrhólaey
Subject Dyrhólaey is a peninsula or promontory, over a 100 m high, with steep cliffs extending
Beach to the sea. Three arches or “doors” pass through the rock at water level, one appearing
Area significantly larger and more prominent when viewing Dyrhólaey from afar. Off the shore
South Iceland there are sea stacks, many of which also have holes through them.
Nearest town
Dyrhólaey was formed in an underwater eruption about 80 thousand years ago. The waves
Vík
of the Atlantic Ocean have since then been constantly hammering the cliffs, eroding and
Access reshaping. In the more erosive layers the ocean has carved out holes or “doors” in the
Car
bedrock which account for the name of Dyrhólaey – which means: “Door-hill-island”.
GPS Coordinates Another interesting geological feature on Dyrhólaey are the basalt columns on the east
N63°24’214’‘
W019°06’214’‘
side of the beach, at Kirkjufjara.
(Lower parking) There are two parking places: on top of the mountain and below the mountain on the east
N63°24’246’‘ side. The upper parking lot gives a high view to the west along the black sand beach and a
W019°07’757‘’ high view of the main arch. The lower parking area at Kirkjufjara is more popular and offers
(Upper parking) a greater variety. The waves bashing against the rock, arches and sea stacks against the
black sand beach give ample motifs and compositions.

Directions that leads up to the top or continue to the

Dyrhólaey is only a few kilometres west lower parking area. The road to the top of
from Reynisdrangar and about 12 km west the cliff is rather narrow and the best places
of Vík. It can be seen from the western side to meet an oncoming car are usually at the
at Reynisfjara volcanic beach. Drive west turns.
along the Ring Road just a few km up an
over a hill, then turn left onto road 218, Seasons
marked Dyrhólaey. All year.
Coming from the west, the turnoff is about Our recommendation
a 25 km drive from Skógafoss. Drive on Take time to study this location as there are
road 218 to the end and, when at the so many motives and possible angles.
promontory, take either the right hand turn

Note
Dyrhólaey is closed
in spring, usually
from the end of
April until mid May.

FUN FACT
Dyrhólaey is the
most southern
point in Iceland.

66
The big arch in Dyrhólaey from above. Photo by Finn 24-70mm @ 70mm
Canon 5DMiii f20, 1/60
January 19, 2011, 08:58 GMT ISO 100

Wave action off the shore at Dyrhólaey. Photo by Hawk 70-200 @ 200mm
Canon 5DMiii f16, 1/200
April 25, 2011, 12:42 GMT ISO 200

67
 Skógafoss
Subject This uniform, almost square but elegant waterfall on the south shore is as popular as it is
Waterfall easy to photograph. Skógafoss faces south and the sun is directly on the waterfall shortly
Area after noon. The spray from the waterfall gets trapped in the bowl surrounding the waterfall,
South Iceland giving excellent chances of rainbows, even double rainbows. Mornings and evenings there
Nearest town are shadows on the cliffs on either side on sunny days, but you can still get rainbows if
Vík you align yourself between the sun and the waterfall.
Access There is a path up the hill on the east side leading to the top of the waterfall, but it doesn‘t
Car
give good angles to photograph the waterfall. It‘s a bit like photographing a mountain from
GPS Coordinates the summit. However, half way up there is a little nose off the path that could give the
N63°31’770‘’
W019°30’790’’
surefooted and brave-hearted some different angles.
Another way to get a different angle is to get wet feet. The river is generally rather easy
flowing, not very deep, with a relatively flat bottom – but it is cold. The river can make a
nice leading line to the waterfall and you probably get fewer people in the frame.

Directions other side of the bridge, in June there are

Skógar is marked on all maps and therefore fields of Alaskan Lupines, which make a
very easy to find. very colourful foreground to the glacier in
the back.
Driving along the Ring Road from the west,
whether from Reykjavik or Hvolsvöllur,
Seasons
drive past Seljalandsfoss and continue for
This is an easy location for all seasons. The
another 20 min or so further east, then turn
only problem will be the number of people;
left to Skógar. Skógafoss is well signposted,
more in summer than in winter, but there
and easy to spot on the left hand side. On
are tour buses every day all year.
a clear day, there are some nice views of
Eyjafjallajökull, for example at Þorvaldseyri. Our recommendation
Coming from Vík in the east, the waterfall You will be photographing mostly from
is less than half an hour‘s drive and very the southwest, facing northeast. Just
obvious on the right hand side. Shortly before noon, the sun shines onto the
before Skógar, just next to the one lane falls. However, this is also a great location
bridge, there is a turnoff to Sólheimajökull, on dark cloudy days for dramatic long
which could also be worth visiting. On the exposures.

TIP
Use a polarizer
to increase the
rainbow.

68
Double rainbow in Skógafoss. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 35mm
Canon 5D mark iii f9, 1/100
August 28, 2010, 17:19 GMT ISO 100

Skógafoss in winter. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 42mm

Canon 5D mark II f16, 1/160
February 24.2010, 12:49 GMT ISO 100

69
 Seljalandsfoss
Subject The main attraction of Seljalandsfoss is that it‘s possible to walk behind the waterfall. You
Waterfall can photograph it from almost every angle: the classic front – or from behind; shooting
Area against the light through the water falling down – or from the sides.
South Iceland
The waterfall is just next to the Ring Road, at the base of Eyjafjallajökull. It‘s therefore quite
Nearest town
busy and it can be fairly difficult to get photographs without a few people in the frame.
Hvolsvöllur
Access The waterfall faces west, so there is no sun on the falls until the afternoon.
Car The best time to photograph the waterfall is probably around 11 pm in the evening in mid
GPS Coordinates or late June. Then you get the waterfall bathed in the soft sunset light, and the rock wall
N63°36’951’‘ behind it becomes golden or orange. In winter, sunset is of course much earlier, but after
W019°59’553’‘
sunset there is artificial light on the waterfall.

Directions and there are fewer people. On the summer

Seljalandsfoss is about 130 km east solstice, the sun sets in the northeast and
of Reykjavík, close to the main highway it‘s also higher in the sky so it reaches
(Ring Road or Route 1) that circles the waterfall a bit earlier than in winter. It
Iceland. Driving from the west, e.g. from can be light from mid afternoon until late
Reykjavík, take Route 1 towards the town evening.
of Hvolsvöllur, then follow it for about 30 During the shortest winter months, the
km further east. Seljalandsfoss can easily sun is almost down when it reaches the
be spotted, well beforehand. The turnoff waterfall - and then it‘s at an angle, so the
leading to the waterfall is on road 249, just window of opportunity is much shorter if
north of its junction with Route 1. you want sunlight on the waterfall. Because
Driving along Route 1 from the east, of Iceland‘s northerly latitude, the changes
e.g. from Vík or Skógar, the base of in daylight are much greater than in most
Eyjafjallajökull is on the right hand side. countries, so it‘s sensible to check the
When the mountain is no longer visible on sunrise and sunset times (please see
the right, there is a turnoff to road 249 to Useful info).
Þórsmörk. Take that right turn and drive just
a few hundred metres to the parking area at Our little secret
FUN FACT the foot of the waterfall. Just a little bit further along the same
Rainbows only form road is the waterfall Gljúfrabúi (“Canyon
when the sun is at
a lower angle than
Seasons Dweller”). The best way to photograph it is
42°. In summer, the best time to visit is late by getting wet feet, wading into the canyon.
evening. The sun is then at the best angle The spray is a problem, though.

TIP
Bring a good cloth
or a Kleenex to
wipe the spray
off the lens. Most
cloths only spread
the moisture so a
Kleenex (without
chemicals) is better
in absorbing water.

70
Seljalandsfoss in the midnight sun. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D mark i f22, 1.6
June 11, 2008, 22:56 GMT ISO 100

Seljalandsfoss in winter. Photo by Finn EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 38mm

Canon 5D Mrk II f4.5, 1/80
February 22. 2010, 09:43 GMT ISO 100

71
 Seljalandsfoss from behind. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 27mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f22, 1/30
July 5, 2012, 20:10 GMT ISO 100

72
Aurora · Adventure · Stargazing · Events · Romance · Gourmet · Luxury

Hotel Ranga is a luxury countryside hotel Hotel Rangá offers 51 luxurious and cozy
in South Iceland. It’s perfectly located to rooms in various price ranges, including the
discover everything South Iceland has to renowned continental suites, decorated and
offer. The Northern Lights, or the Aurora themed after the continents, and a master
Borealis, are a leading attraction at Hotel royal suite.
Rangá during the winter.
Located about an hour drive from Reykjavík.

REYKJAVÍK
Laugarás Flúðir

HVERAGERÐI Þórsmörk

SELFOSS
Eyrabakki

Þorlákshöfn Hella
Stokkseyri
Seljalandsfoss

Skógarfoss
Hvolsvöllur

Dyrhóley

Vestmannaeyjar
 Gluggafoss
Subject Series of waterfalls of different height of which the most outstanding is called Gluggafoss
Waterfall (“Windows Falls”). The river, Merkjá, has dug grooves and tunnels through the softer rock
Area layers which look like windows. At the top of the falls, there is a stone arch which the
South Iceland stream flows under. The upper half of the cliff is tuff rock but the lower ledge is basalt. As
Nearest town the tuff rock is rather soft, over time the waterfall has changed its form faster than most
Hvolsvöllur waterfalls. Before the eruption of the volcano Hekla in 1947, the upper part of the waterfall
Access was mostly hidden because the river flowed into tunnels which were largely covered by the
Car tuff-rock. The rock face, however, had three openings, or “windows”, one above the other.
GPS Coordinates The Hekla eruption deposited about a 20 cm thick layer of pumice that speeded up the
N63°43’177’‘ erosion. The “windows” almost disappeared but the waterfall is now regaining its previous
W019°53’566’‘ form. Gluggafoss is a natural monument.
This waterfall is fun and gives lots of opportunities for different compositions: from wide
angles to telephoto close-ups. There is a path up to the first ledge which leads to a viewing
area, quite close to the tallest part of the waterfall.
The waterfall faces south so it has direct sunlight around noon. Mornings and evenings
there are shadows, unless it‘s cloudy.

Directions Seasons
If driving from the west, take the Ring Road All year
to Hvolsvöllur, then, at the big mast in
Hvolsvöllur, turn left onto road 261 towards Our recommendation
Fljótshlíð and follow it for about 15-20 Bring wellingtons or sandals so you can go
minutes. The waterfall is clearly signposted into the stream to photograph.
on the left hand side. In winter, there can be a lot of ice in and
If driving from the east (e.g., from around the falls so it‘s a good idea to bring
Seljalandsfoss), about 3km after crossing spikes or crampons for your footwear.
the big bridge across Markarfljót river, turn Gluggafoss is ideal to visit on the way to or
right onto gravel road 250 towards Múlakot from Seljalandsfoss (page 70).
and drive to the end of that road (about
10 km), then turn left onto road 261 at the
T-intersection. The waterfall is on the right
hand side.

74
Gluggafoss in summer. Close up of Gluggafoss in winter.
Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 73mm
Canon 5D mark iii f13, 1/60 Canon 5D mark i f22, 1/13
September 26, 2014, 14:20 GMT ISO 200 January 3, 2010, 14:51 GMT ISO 100

75
 Hjálparfoss
Subject Hjálparfoss is a waterfall in Fossá where the river splits around a rock and flows over the
Waterfall lava edge forming two beautiful waterfalls which then join again in the lagoon below.
Area
South Iceland
This waterfall is only a short distance from Gjáin falls and it is probably the most popular
stop in the Þjórsá valley. In the lava wall, there are some very nice hexagonal basalt
Nearest town
columns.
Selfoss
Access
Car
Directions Seasons
Hjálparfoss is near the Búrfellsstöð power All year
GPS Coordinates
plant and the ancient farm Stöng in
N64°06‘860‘‘
W019°51‘186‘‘ Þjórsárdalur valley. Our recommendation
You will be photographing mostly from the
Approaching from the southwest, drive
south/southeast, facing north/northwest,
east on Route 1 about 15 km further than
so from around noon the sun shines into
Selfoss, before turning left onto road 30.
the falls. There is often a lot of angelica
Continue for about 20 km, then turn right
in front of the falls, which creates a good
onto road 32 and drive for another 30 km
foreground.
or so. Shortly before Búrfellsstöð/Búrfell
and approximately 100 m before the bridge
over the river Fossá, turn right onto a gravel
road which leads to the parking lot – about
800 m away.

Want to learn more?

TIP
Hjálparfoss is ideal Read this article on South Iceland:
to visit together with http://www.icelandontheweb.com/articles-on-iceland/iceland-regions/south-iceland
Gjáin and Háifoss
waterfalls

76
Hjálparfoss in autumn. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 45mm
Canon 5D mark i f8, 1/100
October 2, 2010, 10:52 GMT ISO 200

Hjálparfoss in winter. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 70mm

Canon 5D mark i f22, 1/50
March 29, 2009, 16:57 GMT ISO 100

77
 Gjáin
Subject Gjáin is an oasis in an otherwise barren and rough landscape. There is nothing to indicate
Waterfall it‘s there until you look down into the little valley or gorge. Rauðá (“Red River”) drops
Area in two waterfalls into the narrow valley. Here you have clear spring water, beautiful rock
South Iceland formations and lush vegetation such as mosses, grasses, willow, heather, angelica
Nearest town and birch. In the summertime, there is also quite a rich birdlife. Gjáin is an amazing
Selfoss verdant ravine in the contrasting black landscape and a great playing field for the few
Access photographers who know of it.
Car + hiking
GPS Coordinates Directions Our recommendation
N64°08‘943‘‘ Access is from road 32 approximately 300 YYou will be photographing mostly from the
W019°40‘173‘‘ m after the bridge across the Fossá and south/southeast, facing north/northwest –
200 m before the turnoff to the Búrfell so, from around noon, you may get the sun
power station. Coming from the south, shining into the falls. Don’t be afraid to get
turn left onto road 327 at the sign marked your feet wet. You will get the best shots if
Stöng. It’s a reasonable gravel road most you go into the shallow water.
of the way but shortly before reaching
the parking area, there is a small stream Geology
and the road is quite rocky so a higher The rift was formed thousands of years ago
clearance vehicle may be needed. The drive by the water from the predecessor of the
is around 10 km from road 32. river Þjórsá. Four lava flows have passed
over the area (the so-called Tungnaá
Another access point is from the route to
streams coming from the Veiðivötn region).
Háifoss waterfall (see page 104), some
The youngest, called Þjórsárdalur lava,
10 km further north on road 32. From
rushed down approximately four thousand
road 32, turn left onto road 332 marked
years ago.
Hólaskógur, then very shortly turn left again
to a track that leads towards road 327 The Slag hills (pseudo craters) were formed
soon after leaving the tarmac, instead of when lava flowed into a lake or wetlands
taking the road to the cabin. There is no and steam explosions generated the
stream to cross on this route, and Gjáin is pseudo craters.
ideal to visit together with Háifoss.

Seasons
Accessible from late spring to early autumn,
depending on snow

TIP
Bring sandals or
Wellingtons so you
can go into the
streams and cross
the river

78
Gjáin. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm, f/2.8L IS USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D Mrk I f22, 1/20
August 20, 2009, 15:05 GMT ISO 200

Photographers in Gjáin. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm, f/2.8L IS USM @ 35mm

Canon 5D Mrk I f9, 1/100
August 20, 2011, 15:07 GMT ISO 200

79
 Gullfoss
Subject Gullfoss (“Golden Waterfall”) is a waterfall 10 km away from Geysir on road 35 and it‘s
Waterfall part of the most popular day tour in Iceland, called the Golden Circle. In fact, “Golden
Area Circle” draws its name from the waterfall. As with so many waterfalls, there is always
South Iceland some spray above it and when the sun hits the spray it often creates a rainbow. Everybody
Nearest town knows there is gold at the end of a rainbow – hence the name: Gullfoss (‘gull’ means gold;
Selfoss ‘foss’ means waterfall). Another possible explanation is the golden colour the river gets in
Access the sunlight.
Car
The waterfall is about 32 m (100ft) high and in two distinct steps, of approximately 12
GPS Coordinates and 20 metres. It faces almost due south so the best chance of getting a rainbow above
Upper parking:
N64°19’539‘’/
the waterfall is around 13:30. Iceland is in the wrong time zone so the sun is not at its
W020°07’809‘’ highest angle at noon, but closer to 13:20. However, the sun never goes high enough to
shine onto the lowest part of the waterfall because of the deep gorge it‘s in. Therefore,
Lower parking:
N64°19’507’‘/ on sunny days there is a very high contrast between the upper part of the waterfall that is
W020°07’510‘’ sunlit and the lower part, which is in a deep shadow. Many favour photographing waterfalls
on cloudy days as it reduces or eliminates this high contrast and gives a softer light – but
then, of course, you don‘t get the rainbow.

Directions which can be very nice. In summer, there

The shortest route from Reykjavik is through is obviously more water and it‘s darker and
Þingvellir via route 36 and then onwards more of a gray/brownish colour due to the
on road 365 to Laugarvatn to connect with sand and silt from the glacier.
road 37 which goes straight to Geysir and
then another 10 km to Gullfoss, although Our little secret
the road number is then 35. Gullfoss is 99,9% of all photographs of Gullfoss are
about 2 hours drive from Reykjavik. from the west side and it might seem like
this is the only access point to it – but, you
Another route is from the Ring Road just
can get to it from the east side. It‘s a few
west of the town Selfoss in the south. Turn
minutes’ drive down river, towards Geysir.
on onto road 35 and follow it for about 60
Then turn left onto road 30, drive across the
km to Geysir and then another 10 km to
bridge, and then another left onto gravel
Gullfoss.
road 349 and follow it for a few miles.
There is a little sign ”Gullfoss” where you
Seasons
park but there are no facilities. From there,
There is traffic at the waterfall every day all
a simple 1-2 km (about 1 mi) long path
FUN FACT year, peaking between noon and teatime.
Rainbows only form leads to the waterfall. Bring sensible shoes
when the sun is at More people visit in summer than in winter. and rain gear, and please note that there
a lower angle than In winter, it‘s busier on weekends than are no safety railings or any infrastructure
42° weekdays. However, you can usually get on that side.
a photo without too many people in the
The angle to the waterfall is not better, just
frame.
different. If you get there in the morning,
TIP There is less water in the river in winter you have the sun in your back and, almost
Bring a Kleenex
(without scent to
and the colour is bluer (it‘s a glacial river guaranteed, a rainbow and often a double
avoid chemicals) to and glaciers melt more in summer). In rainbow – that is, IF it‘s a sunny morning.
dry the lens. Most mid-winter, the falls are often half-frozen
cloths are not as
moisture absorbent.

80
Gullfoss. Photo by Finn EF100-400 mm f/4,5 IS USM @ 350mm
Canon 5D mark III f38, 1/10
March 10, 2013, 13:09 GMT ISO 100

Gullfoss from the east side with a double rainbow. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 35mm
Canon 5D mark i f20, 1/50
uly 16, 2012, 09:33 GMT ISO 200

81
 Geysir/Strokkur
Subject Geysir and Strokkur are the two most famous geysers in Iceland, located right next to each
Geothermal other in the geothermal area of Haukadalur. The original Geysir, the one which all geysers
Area and the phenomenon itself are named after, is in a dormant period and doesn‘t erupt as it
South Iceland used to. However, its “little brother”, Strokkur, erupts every few minutes.
Nearest town
Geysir is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Iceland, which for a photographer
Selfoss
creates some challenges. Throughout the day, there will always be people in your frame.
Access
Car Another challenge is photographing steam. On grey days, there is no contrast between the
GPS Coordinates
erupting column of water and steam and the sky. Again, a possible solution is to go close
N64°18‘592‘‘ and photograph the big blue bubble the geyser forms just before it erupts. Although seeing
W020°18‘075‘‘ Strokkur and the fabled Geysir is almost a must for first time visitors to Iceland, it‘s not
likely to become a favourite spot for landscape photographers.

Directions More people visit in summer than in winter.

The shortest route from Reykjavik is through In winter, it‘s busier at weekends than on
Þingvellir via route 36 and then onwards weekdays.
on road 365 to Laugarvatn to connect
with road 37 which goes straight to Geysir Our recommendation
although the road number is then 35. Not surprisingly, the best time to
Geysir is just under 2 hours drive from photograph Strokkur is at sunrise and at
Reykjavik. sunset – which in summer are very close
together, as well as in the middle of the
Another route is from the Ring Road just
night, when there are fewer or no tourists
west of the town Selfoss in the south. Turn
in the frame. Therefore, your best chance
on onto road 35 and follow it for about 60
of getting a good photograph is to stay
km.
overnight at Hotel Geysir which is literally
FUN FACT Gullfoss is just 10 km further on road 35 a 3 min walk from the geysers. The area
The word geyser and Brúárfoss is also close to Geysir. doesn‘t close; you can simply walk over
is the name for whenever the light is good and the tourists
this phenomenon Seasons are gone. Geysir is only a 10 min drive from
in almost every
language in the
There is traffic at Geysir every single day, all Gullfoss waterfall so it‘s a good location for
world – except year, peaking between noon and teatime. both sights.
Icelandic, even
though it‘s an
Icelandic word.
A geyser in
Icelandic is goshver
(‘erupting hot
spring’) and Geysir
is the name of the
largest one.

TIP
Don‘t stand
downwind from the
geyser, you´ll get
wet ☺

82
The geyser Strokkur. The geyser Strokkur.
Photo by Finn 45 mm lens with Echtachrome film Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm f/2.8L USM @ 16mm
Hasselblad Xpan ISO 100 Canon 5D Mrk I f11, 1/50
January 19 2006, 10:30 GMT August 20. 2010, 06:52 GMT ISO 250

83
 The geyser Strokkur. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 27mm
Canon 5D Mrk I f9, 1/80
August 20. 2010, 06:21 GMT ISO 320

84
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Welcome

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[email protected]
TEL +354 480 6800
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WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/HOTELGEYSIR
 Brúárfoss
Subject Brúárfoss is a little gem on the Golden Circle tour which we were hesitant to include, as
Waterfall the area is environmentally quite fragile and won‘t handle much traffic. It is well hidden
Area away in a summer house district but, for photographers, it‘s well worth looking for. The
South Iceland waterfall is not tall and it is not one waterfall but, rather, dozens of small cascades running
Nearest town down a step of about 3 metres high. In the middle of the river, there is a deep cut where
Laugarvatn / the water flows rapidly. Inside the cut, the water is a fantastic blue colour.
Selfoss
Access Directions visible. A wooden bridge crosses the river
Car + hiking right in front of the waterfall.
Brúárfoss is about halfway between
GPS Coordinates Laugarvatn and Geysir. Approaching from
N64°05’847”
Note: It‘s difficult to find and the obscure
Þingvellir (Thingvellir), take road 36, then path is often very muddy.
W021°55’063”
(Gravel road near
road 365 to Laugarvatn, and then turn left
Brúárfoss, no onto road 37 towards Geysir. Stay on road Seasons
parking lot) 37 for about 13 km or so, and drive 2-3 This is a great location for photographers
km past the intersection of road 37 and for all seasons, if willing to wade through
road 355, until a large summerhouse area a bit of mud, wet trails or snow. It‘s not
(Brekkuskógur) becomes visible on the left. a destination for tourists and we hope it
At Brekkuskógur, take the first available never will be. It‘s so difficult to find that it‘s
road left (not the exit closed with a road never crowded, although increasingly more
bar) into this area and keep to the left. After photographers have heard of this hidden
a few minutes drive through the forest, the jewel. Please leave nothing behind and take
road is parallel to a fence, then the forest only photographs.
opens up a bit and there is a cattle guard
which is where you stop. There is no parking Our recommendation
lot or any obvious place to park. You will be mostly photographing from
On the other side of the fence, there is a the southwest, facing northeast. Just
little path, often wet and very muddy. Follow before noon, the sun shines into the falls.
the path for a few minutes, then cross the However, this is also a great location
footbridge to where the path continues on on dark cloudy days for impressive long
the other side. Walk for another 10 min and exposures.
you will hear the waterfall before it becomes

TIP
If you have
Wellingtons, do
bring them, as the
path can be muddy
after rain

86
Brúárfoss. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 34mm
Canon 5D MIII f22, 0.6
September 8, 2013, 17:24 GMT ISO 100

Brúárfoss. Photo by Hawk EF70-200 mm f/2.8L USM @ 98mm

Canon 5D MIII f45, 0.6
September 15, 2014, 11:31 GMT ISO 100

87
 Þingvellir
Subject At Þingvellir – literally, “Parliament Plains” - the Alþing, or parliament, was established
Geology & Waterfall around 930 AD and continued to assemble there until 1798. So many major events in the
Area history of Iceland have taken place at Þingvellir, hence the place is held in high esteem
South Iceland by all Icelanders. Today Þingvellir is a protected national shrine. According to the law
Nearest town passed in 1928, establishing Þingvellir (Thingvellir) as the first national park in Iceland,
Reykjavík the protected area shall always be the property of the Icelandic nation. It is also one of
Access the two places in Iceland inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. No single place
Car represents the history of Iceland and the Icelandic nation better than Þingvellir by the river
GPS Coordinates Öxará.
N64°15‘897‘‘
W021°06‘836‘‘ *
Þingvellir is also a place of outstanding scenic beauty. From a photographic perspective,
the main features to photograph are the tectonic rifts and Öxarárfoss waterfall, which
*The GPS point
drops off the edge of the North American tectonic plate. All over the park, there are rifts
is at the parking
lot closest to the and shallow canyons formed by the drift of the tectonic plates. The North American plate
waterfall, but there and the Eurasian plate meet in Iceland and Þingvellir is one of the best places to see such
are many other tectonic plate boundaries.
parking areas
within the Þingvellir Þingvellir has beautiful autumn colours in late September and early October.
National Park It‘s also a popular spot for northern lights photography.

Directions major tectonic plates drifting apart can be

Drive out of Reykjavík heading north along observed on dry land and in shallow waters.
the Ring Road, then, after passing through The rift zone constitutes of a graben that
the town Mosfellsbær, turn onto road 36 is bordered by major faults. The rift valley
signposted Þingvellir 33 km. narrows from about 20-25 km in the NE to
The first parking area is by the visitor centre about 10 km in the SW. To the eye, the rifts
on the edge of the North American plate. appear as nearly parallel fissures running
From the viewing platform, there is a good along the length of the valley. On the west
overview of the park, the lake and different (North American) side of the valley, the
crevices, as well as of the other parking rift slopes down toward the east, while on
areas. the east (European) side, it‘s the reverse.
Thus, the valley floor sinks little by little
FUN FACT Seasons as the valley walls are pulled apart by
Iceland is growing
All year. plate activity. The valley walls are moving
by an inch every
year. apart and during the past 9000 years, the
Geology estimated horizontal expansion has been
The Þingvellir area is a part of the Mid- about 70 m. The floor is sinking at about 1
Atlantic Ridge system. It can be described mm per year, which has amounted to 40
TIP as an area of sea-floor spreading, m over the past 9000 years. Rifting is not
Þingvellir is displaying the close association of crustal constant but episodic, with the last major
generally most rifting and volcanism. Þingvellir and the earthquake activity occurring in 1789.
crowded between Great Rift Valley of Eastern Africa are the During the 1789 earthquakes, the valley
10 and 11 in the
only sites on Earth where the effects of two floor sank 1-2 m.
morning as most
Golden Circle tours
start from Reykjavík
at 9 am and head
straight to Þingvellir

88
Öxarárfoss. Photo by Finn EF70-200 f/2.8L IS USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D Mrk II f32, 1/13
October 11, 2009, 13:09 GMT ISO 100

89
 Tectonic plate boundaries at Þingvellir. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 24mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f19, 1/6
September 20, 2014, 12:08 GMT ISO 100

90
Customized
Adventures
in Iceland

Selective travellers enjoy mixing classic

attractions and off-the-beaten-track sights
with our personalized itineraries, adjusted to
their needs and wishes.
Guided Tours
Self Drives
Super-Jeep Tours
Day Tours
Longer Tours
We can also book hotels, activities and
other tours without any mark-up. Our travel
planners and guides know Iceland intimately,
the best locations, the best hotels and the
tours available.
Your vacation time is the most valuable time
of the year.
Let our local experts help you make the
most of it.

www.IcelandPrivateTours.is
 Seltún/Krýsuvík
Subject While exploring the Blue Lagoon and Reykjanes, do not skip Krýsuvík - Seltún geothermal
Geothermal area. The official name is Seltún but even many Icelanders call the place Krýsuvík, after
Area the nearby farm. On your way either to or from Krýsuvík (Seltún), you will pass the lake
Reykjanes Kleifarvatn. Several good photo opportunities are along the route. At Krýsuvík, you will find
Nearest town a cluster of hot springs where you can capture the surreal beauty of the steaming vents,
Grindavík / mud pots and solfataras shimmering with rainbow colours from the strange minerals in
Hafnarfjörður the earth. The place will leave a lasting impression, not just because of the sulphurous
Access smell. There are postcard photos to be had, abstracts of colourful rocks, macro shots of
Car the fumaroles, whilst the many colours in the hillsides give endless tonal combinations. It
GPS Coordinates is a great playing field. Nearby is the lake Grænavatn, an old explosion crater filled with
N63o81’540’” emerald tinted water due to a combination of minerals and warmth-loving algae.
W022o68’480’”

Directions the hot water dissolves various substances

From Reykjavík drive towards Keflavík in the rock. As it nears surface level, the
airport through Hafnarfjörður, following the water begins to boil and releases hot
signs. Then, just before the big aluminium spring gases, above all carbon dioxide,
factory, turn left onto road 42, at the sign hydrogen and hydrogen sulphide - the
marked Krýsuvík. Lake Kleifarvatn is along source of a typical hot spring smell. The
this route – don’t forget to stop and take in acidic water and the constant heat dissolve
the vista. the rock, resulting in the clay and the
characteristically coloured mud pools.
Return to Reykjavík along the same
Besides sulphur and clay minerals various
route; or, alternatively, continue towards
salts, generally white or yellowish in colour,
Grindavík, Reykjanes and Gunnuhver. (See
are deposited by stream vents.
page 96.)
Hot spring birds
Seasons
Icelanders used to believe in hot spring
Accessible most of the year, but the road
birds; these waders were supposed to dive
does close due to snow in mid winter.
into a bubble of the boiling water when
anybody came close. The scholars Eggert
Our recommendation
Ólafsson and Bjarni Pálsson attempted to
Prepare to spend a whole day on the
find such birds while on their 18th century
Reykjanes Peninsula. There is so much
research expedition, but found none and
to see: The Blue Lagoon, Gunnuhver, the
thus entered in their journal:
cliffs at the lighthouse, as well as Seltún /
Krýsuvík. With southerly winds, the sea and Few Icelanders believe that these are actual
the waves can become quite impressive. birds, although some feel that they are
The birdlife is also rich during the summer purely imaginary or deception due to the
season. accidental appearances of the steam over
water. Others think such birds are ghosts.
Hot spring geology Finally, a few people, mostly elderly,
Cool ground water seeps down to where consider these birds to be the souls of
it is heated up by magma or a magmatic dead people that take on this appearance.
intrusion. On the way back to the surface,

92
Seltún in Krýsuvík. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 32mm
Canon 5D mark I f11, 1/80
June 6 2012 11:55 GMT ISO 100

Seltún in Krýsuvík. Photo by Finn EF100-400 mm f/4.5L IS USM @ 220mm

Canon 5D mark III f32, 1/15
July 17.2013, 14:24 GMT ISO 50

93
 Blue Lagoon
Subject Although the Blue Lagoon is to some extent man-made, it is now part of Icelandic nature
Geothermal and one of the best known wonders of Iceland. Even if you don’t pay the entrance fee to
Area soak in the geothermal spa, it is very much worth exploring the lava field and viewing the
South Iceland famous blue water flowing all over the area.
Nearest town
When you get to the entrance, take the path to your left and start discovering. Inside the
Grindavík
spa, there are crowds of people, as it’s the most popular tourist spot in Iceland, but there
Access are very few people outside. Play around composing your photos with the black lava and
Car
the whitish blue water. Even the steam from the nearby power plant providing the lagoon’s
GPS Coordinates water can be very photogenic.
N63°52’185’‘
W022°27’185’‘
Directions drilling holes at a nearby geothermal power
The Blue Lagoon is only about 45 min from plant, Svartsengi, to create electricity and
Reykjavík. From Reykjavík, drive through hot water for the neighbouring communities.
Hafnarfjörður along road 41 towards The Blue Lagoon was initially an accidental
Keflavík airport. Turn left onto road 43 by-product of the operation of the power
towards Grindavík /Bláa Lónið, then, after plant. On its way to the surface, the
approximately 8 km, take the right turn at water picks up silica and minerals, before
the sign marked Bláa Lónið and continue 2, emerging at a soothing 38°C (100°F),
5 km. perfect for a relaxing and re-energising
bathe.
Seasons
Accessible by normal car all year. There are Why is it blue?
regular bus tours from Reykjavík and from The geothermal water has a unique
Keflavík airport, about 20 min away. composition, featuring three active
ingredients: silica, algae and minerals. The
Our recommendation blue colour comes from the silica and the
This area is mostly suitable for a wide angle way it reflects sunlight. During summer,
or a short telephoto lens. Do not forget your there can also be a hint of green in the
polarizer. water. This is the result of the algae, which
multiply quickly when exposed to direct
Geology sunlight. However, the water is actually
The geothermal water originates from 2000 white. If you pour it into a transparent cup,
metres below the surface, where freshwater it will always have a milky white colour. The
and seawater combine at extreme sun simply makes it look blue.
temperatures. It is then harnessed via

TIP
After your visit to the
Blue Lagoon, don’
t forget to explore
Gunnuhver at the
tip of the Reykjanes
Peninsula.

94
Blue Lagoon. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 25mm
Canon 5D mark i f11, 1/125
June 25, 2012, 12:49 GMT ISO 100

Blue Lagoon. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 70mm

Canon 5D mark II f10, 1/800
August 8, 2009, 12:22 GMT ISO 100

95
 Gunnuhver
Subject While exploring the Blue Lagoon and Reykjanes Peninsula, do not skip Gunnuhver
Geothermal geothermal area. It is only a little more than a kilometre away from Reykjanesviti, the
Area Reykjanes lighthouse.
Reykjanes
Iceland was formed on the boundary between two tectonic plates and as the plates shift
Nearest town
apart, new hot ground rises from the Earth. Gunnuhver is one of the best places to observe
Grindavík / Keflavík
land being born. It is located where the Reykjanes ridge surfaces from the Atlantic Ocean
Access and becomes the Reykjanes Peninsula. The name Gunnuhver originates from an old story
Car
about a ghost called Gunna who was lured into one of the fumaroles by a sorcerer.
GPS Coordinates
N63°49’109’’ Like other geothermal areas in Iceland, Gunnuhver has a variety of mud pools, steam
W022°41’219’’ vents, and some cracked mud. The cracked mud is dependent on precipitation. Iceland´s
largest mud pool at present is prominent among the hot springs, located highest up in the
Gunnuhver group. It is 20 m across, boiling vigorously along its mud rim.

Directions Our recommendation

There are several routes to Gunnuhver. Prepare to spend a whole day at the
From Reykjavík, head towards Keflavík Reykjanes Peninsula. There is so much to
airport along road 41; then, take the turnoff see: The Blue Lagoon, Gunnuhver, the cliffs
onto road 43 towards Grindavík / Blue at the lighthouse and Seltún – often called
Lagoon. Next, turn right onto road 425, Krýsuvík. With southerly winds, the sea and
on the outskirts of Grindavík. Continue on the waves can be remarkable. The birdlife is
road 425 towards Reykjanesviti (Reykjanes also quite rich during the summer season.
lighthouse). Closer to the lighthouse, a Do not forget to go the lighthouse and out
small sign marked Gunnuhver is on the left to the cliff.
hand side. (Further along, there is another Bring a wide-angle lens for the overall shots
turnoff signposted Gunnuhver.) and a dramatic sky and short telephoto
Coming from the south, e.g. Hveragerði, lenses for close ups of the colourful mud
head towards Grindavík along road 38, then pools or cracked mud. Depending on the
road 427. Follow the signs to Grindavík, wind, there can be some steam so, as
eventually turning right onto road 43. Just always, have a cloth ready in your bag to
before exiting Grindavík, turn left onto road wipe the lens. Also, be prepared for the
425, towards Reykjanesviti. Gunnuhver is smell of sulphur.
signposted on the left.

Seasons
Accessible all year, but in winter check road
conditions as the road is not always cleared
for snow.

96
Gunnuhver. Photo by Finn EF70-200 mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 165mm
Canon 5D mark III f11, 1/15
October 26, 2014, 15:48 GMT ISO 100

Gunnuhver. Photo by Finn EF70-200 mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 165mm

Canon 5D mark III f11, 1/15
October 26, 2014, 15:50 GMT ISO 100

97
 The Interior
Highlands
Looking at a map of Iceland one quickly sees that all the towns are along the coast and
there is “nothing” in the middle. However, this “nothing” is the most fascinating part of
Iceland.
Iceland is 25% larger than Ireland and almost 2/3 of Iceland is mountain wilderness
and largely untouched. Glaciers cover over 10% of the landmass and the largest one,
Vatnajökull, is 3 times the size of Luxembourg or Rhode Island. Iceland has had two of the
largest lava flows that have flowed on Earth in historical times, which is no wonder given
that Iceland is one of the most volcanically active places in the world. This combination
of volcanic activity, geothermal heat and glaciers is fascinating, especially for landscape
photographers.
We have included just a few places in the interior highlands, just to give readers a small
sample and a few ideas of what there is to see and photograph.
More or less all the roads in the interior are gravel roads with unbridged rivers and only
suitable for 4x4 vehicles. These roads are marked with an “F” in front of the road number,
e.g. the road to Landmannalaugar is F208. Fords in unbridged rivers are marked on maps
with a “V” inside a circle. Some rivers are small streams which are usually easily passable
even by a small 4x4, while others are large glacial rivers which after a heavy rain can be
completely impassable, even for the largest 4x4 vehicles. Weather always plays a big role
in Iceland, more so in the highlands, so please read the later chapters on roads, weather
and safety.

Note
To our knowledge, the following rules apply at all Icelandic car rentals:
- No insurance covers damages occurring when crossing unbridged rivers and streams.
- No insurance covers the undercarriage of the vehicle.
Basically, it means that if you lose or damage the rental car in a river, you´re liable.
If you damage the undercarriage, you are liable.
If you plan to visit places like Thorsmork Nature Reserve where you need to cross about 20 glacial rivers and
streams, you might be saving money by going on a guided tour rather than by driving yourself and risking
having to pay for a new rental car.

98
Reykjadalir in Fjallabak. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 24mm
Canon 5D f22, 1/3
une 30, 2012, 10:51 GMT ISO 100

First snow of the autumn in the highlands. Photo by Hawk EF70-200 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 165mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f25, 1/6
September 25, 2014, 16:17 GMT ISO 200

99
 Aldeyjarfoss
Subject Aldeyjarfoss is on the Skjálfandafljót River, the same river as Goðafoss Waterfall, about
Waterfall a 45 km drive upstream, at the northern start of Sprengisandur route (F26). Since it‘s
Area slightly away from the main roads, it doesn‘t get a lot of visitors which makes it easier and
North Iceland more enjoyable to photograph.
Nearest town
The river falls in a rather narrow but powerful current into a large round basin. The force
Akureyri and
Húsavík of the water is such that it creates a round uplift or turbulence as it plunges into the pool,
giving many opportunities to play with the water patterns. Hexagonal basalt columns frame
Access
4x4 + short hike
the waterfall superbly. Further downstream, there is an impressive row of hexagonal basalt
columns, which are also interesting to photograph.
GPS Coordinates
N65°21’866‘’
W017°20’462’‘ Directions but be cautious, as there are no guardrails.
Just west of Goðafoss (page 32), take
the turnoff south marked “Sprengisandur” Seasons
and “Mýri 38 km”. Note that the road The Sprengisandur route is not cleared of
to Mýri farm is number 842 but at the snow in winter. It‘s a mountain road which
farm there is a turn to the left marked is only open during the summer (see table
“Sprengisandur” where the road number of when the highland roads open, on page
changes to F26. Mýri is the last farm in the 98). Aldeyjarfoss is easily accessible in
valley and from there it‘s only about 5 km July, August and into September, but for
to Aldeyjarfoss. There is a gate on the road, how long into the autumn depends on the
to keep sheep on one side. If the gate is first snow and weather conditions. It‘s often
closed, please close it again after you‘ve accessible well into October and sometimes
gone through. November, but always check the weather
forecast beforehand.
The road to Mýri is a decent gravel road
but, after Mýri, it gets a bit rougher. Don‘t Our recommendation
get discouraged by the sign for unbridged For the surefooted and adventurous, there
rivers – that‘s not until after Aldeyjarfoss. are ways to get a bit lower, climbing down
The parking area is easily spotted and there the cliffs downstream from the waterfall.
are a couple of A-shaped outhouses (use This provides a lower vantage point, more
the WC at Goðafoss, before leaving). From level with the middle of the waterfall.
the parking area, it‘s a short walk downhill
on a rather rough and muddy path which Our little secret
can be slippery. It leads to a little plateau There are really nice rock formations
or flat rocks south-west of the falls. Walk downstream from the waterfall. Get as low
along the cliffs to find your compositions, as you can and photograph the abstract
shapes and forms of the cliffs. Be careful
not to fall.

TIP
A wide angle or
24-70mm lens is a
fine for the waterfall
but use a telephoto
lens for tighter shots
and rock formations
/ abstracts

100
Aldeyjarfoss. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 21mm
Canon 5D mark iii f22, 1/25
July 18, 2012, 10:46 GMT ISO 100

River and hexagon columns below Aldeyjarfoss. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 70mm
Canon 5D mark iii f32, 1,6
September 17, 2014, 12:24 GMT ISO 100

101
 Askja
Subject Askja is a very large caldera with a large lake inside and a smaller crater called Víti
Mountains & (“Hell”). From the rim you can photograph the perfectly round crater with a wide angle
Geothermal
lens. The turquoise blue water and the red lava on the slopes, together with the rim of the
Area caldera in the background, make this a nice place to visit and photograph. Note that it‘s
Highlands
located at an elevation of 1,000 m a.s.l. (3,300 ft) in the central highlands so you can
Nearest town expect any kind of weather. The road to Askja is only for 4x4 vehicles and opens late June
Mývatn or early July and closes again in September. There are many great photographic locations
Access near Askja which can be included in your trip: Svartá (“Black River”), Herðubreiðarlindir,
4x4 + hiking Mt. Herðubreið and perhaps the new lava from the 2014 eruption in Holuhraun, with
GPS Coordinates Kverkfjöll mountains and Vatnajökull glacier in the background. There are of course
N65°02.520‘/ countless other motifs in this volcanic desert.
W016°35.720‘
(Parking at Dreki
cabin) Directions when it‘s best to be there. The light is so
There are a few routes to choose from. The changeable that it depends more on the
shortest route is road F88 from the Ring weather than the time of day. You could
Road east of Mývatn. From there it‘s about overnight at the mountain cabin at Dreki,
100 km to Askja but it‘s a slow route so but it‘s basic sleeping bag accommodation
allow plenty of time for the journey. There or a very rough campsite.
are a couple of unbridged streams to cross
which can be too deep for low 4x4 vehicles. Our little secret
Midway along route F88, Herðubreiðarlindir, Just a few kilometres south of Askja there
an oasis in the desert, becomes visible. is a little detour off F910, marked Svartá.
Freshwater river originates from under Ground water seeps from under the black
the lava, nurturing angelicas and other volcanic sand in the desert and forms
vegetation in the desert. one of the shortest rivers in Iceland, the
Svartá. The water and the green against
Another route is from Möðrudalur, driving
the black sand desert give a lot of photo
along F905 until it merges with F910. This
opportunities. It‘s a fun place to play with
route is longer and not as photogenic.
the camera. Drive to the end of this sandy
At Dreki cabin (see gps) there are park track and also photograph the spot where
rangers who can provide information. Svartá falls into the glacier river Jökulsá
á Fjöllum. Svartá flows over a small cliff
Seasons in 3 waterfalls and again it‘s greenery
FUN FACT The mountain road to Askja opens late in against the black volcanic sand. The fact
This is the area Neil the summer and closes early in autumn. that this place gets very few visitors and
Armstrong, Buzz It takes a whole day to reach it from Lake photographers makes it also just a little bit
Aldrin and Michael Mývatn (nearest hotels) so it‘s a rather long more interesting.
Collins used to train
for their moonwalk.
drive and it‘s difficult to choose exactly
They stayed at
Dreki cabin.

TIP
Bring hiking boots
and Gore-Tex
clothing.

102
Víti crater inside Askja Caldera. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D mark iii f20, 1/60
June 30, 2014, 13:47 GMT ISO 100

Waterfall in Svartá river, south of Askja. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 25mm
Canon 5D mark iii f22, 1/15
September 9, 2014, 13:05 GMT ISO 100

103
 Háifoss & Granni
Subject Háifoss (“Tall Waterfall”) is the third tallest waterfall in Iceland, 122 m high, and Granni
Waterfall (“Neighbour”) is almost as tall. For a long time Háifoss was believed to be the second
Area tallest waterfall in Iceland but newer measurements show that Hengifoss (see page 44)
South Iceland is 6 metres taller.
Nearest town
The falls tumble from the plateau into the narrow valley, Fossárdalur. They are a bit off
Selfoss
the beaten track, so a car with higher clearance is needed. Access is from above, on the
Access opposite side of the falls. There are no railings or safety lines to obstruct the view – or to
Car in summer, 4x4
autumn to spring
prevent one from falling into the canyon. Pure nature, as we love it.
GPS Coordinates
N64°12‘392‘‘ Directions crowded although photographers have
W019°40‘700‘‘ From Selfoss, access is from road 32, heard of the place.
approximately 10 km north of Búrfell. Turn
left onto road F332 where a sign points Our recommendation
towards Hólaskógur - a cabin is visible in You will be mostly photographing from the
the distance. Closer to the cabin, where south-southeast, facing north-northwest; so,
there is a sign pointing to Háifoss, follow from around noon the sun shines into the
the road for another 10 km. Then pass falls. The afternoon has the most beautiful
under the power lines and follow the sign light and you are likely to see rainbows in
to the parking area. From there, it is only a the spray.
5 min easy walk down hill. The road to the
falls is a rough gravel road but there are Geology
no un-bridged rivers to cross until after the The strata of the falls are close to 2 million
falls. years old, made of thick lava flows above
and below them. The most obvious rock is
Seasons from before the last Ice Age, called tuff; i.e.,
This is a great location for all seasons layers of tephra compressed and moulded
except winter when the location is together.
inaccessible due to snow. It is never

TIP
There are good
vantage points
further down the
edge of the canyon
so go explore.

104
Háifoss and Granni. Photo by Finn EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 24mm
Canon 5D Mrk II f20, 1/30
May 31. 2009, 15:58 GMT ISO 100

Háifoss. Photo by Finn EF100-400 mm f/4.5L USM @ 100mm

Canon 5D Mrk II f32, 1/20
June 25. 2009, 12:48 GMT ISO 100

105
 Landmannalaugar
Subject Landmannalaugar is a nature pearl in the interior highlands, located in a valley between
Geothermal & colourful mountains at the dark edge of the rhyolite lava field Laugahraun. A visit to
Mountains
Landmannalaugar is a geological exploration where the hot and cold meet in a great array
Area of colours and beauty. Many hot and cold springs create a warm brook, where people can
Highlands
bathe. Most likely you will be too busy hiking in the lava fields, exploring the hot springs
Nearest town and steam vents, capturing the amazing tones and shapes while photographing, to enjoy a
N/A soak in the natural geothermal pool. You will almost certainly want to stay longer and visit
Access again. In spite of the often crowded campground, it´s easy to be alone in the magnificent
4x4 surroundings within a few minutes’ walk.
GPS Coordinates
Main parking: Directions (last place for fuel, but further along it
N63°59’448’‘
There are basically 3 routes to becomes a gravel road. There are a couple
W019°03’476’‘
Landmannalaugar: of big signs where the turnoff is onto F225.
Riverside parking: There are also a couple of unbridged rivers
N63°59’673’‘ 1. F208 from Hrauneyjar (safest & quickest
W019°03’592‘’
on this route, which are normally not an
from south-west, Reykjavík)
obstacle for most 4x4s. This route joins
2. F225 through Dómadalur (close to Hekla F208 from Hrauneyjar 5 km before reaching
volcano) Landmannalaugar.
3. F208 from Skaftártunga (shortest from 3. Coming from the south-east: Midway
south-east, Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur) between Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur, turn
1. Hrauneyjar route from Reykjavik: Drive off the Ring Road onto road 208 which
east on Route 1 about 15 km further than leads to the Búland, the last farm of the
Selfoss, before turning left onto road 30. valley, where the road turns to an F-road.
Continue for about 30 km, then turn right There are quite a few unbrigded rivers
onto road 32 and follow it until it joins and streams to cross before reaching
road 26. Some 15 km further, there is a Landmannalaugar. It is 75 km from the
petrol station and guesthouse Hrauneyjar Ring Road to Landmannalaugar, but it‘s a
– which is the last chance for fuel. Shortly rather slow drive and very scenic, especially
after Hrauneyjar, about 5-6 km further, for landscape photographers.
at the sign for Landmannalaugar, turn
onto road 208. This is where the road Seasons
changes to a gravel road and it can be The roads usually open early to mid June
quite coarse. There are also rivers to cross and close with the first snow of the autumn,
before reaching Landmannalaugar, some usually in September.
35 km further. The last 35 km are a bit slow
because the road is both rough and scenic. Our recommendation
Along this route, there is a short worthwhile There are many great hiking routes to
detour to Sigalda Canyon (see page 110). choose from, but we would recommend
Visiting Ljótipollur is also worthwhile. the “Green Canyon Circle”. Seek advice
at the rangers hut and study the maps in
2. Dómadalur route from Hella in south Landmannalaugar.
Iceland: Less than 10 km west of Hella,
at the petrol station, turn right onto road Allow plenty of time and try not to be
TIP 26 and follow it for about 50 km. It‘s a disappointed if you don‘t get to see
Bring a bathing suit
good tarmac road till just past Leirubakki everything. Just visit again.
and towel for the
geothermal pool

106
Barmur ridge in Landmannalaugar. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 62mm
Canon 5D mark i f13, 1/80
August 16, 2010, 17:40 GMT ISO 320

Valley flowers in Landmannalaugar. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 29mm

Canon 5D mark i f10, 1/80
July 17, 2010, 15:32 GMT ISO 100

107
 Grænagil (Green Canyon) in Landmannalaugar. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 70mm
Canon 5D mark i f10, 1/100
August 17, 2009, 17:46 GMT ISO 100

108
 Hotel Highland is open from 1st of June to the 30th of September.
Hotel Highland is a three star hotel situated at the edge of the Iceland’s
most impressive and active volcanic area. From here it is a short distance
to many of the most beautiful and popular tourist attractions in the
Icelandic highlands.

Veiðivötn
Háifoss

Sigöldugljúfur

Hjálparfoss
REYKJAVÍK

Laugarás

HVERAGERÐI

SELFOSS
Eyrabakki

Þorlákshöfn Stokkseyri Hella

Hvolsvöllur
Landmannalaugar

The Hrauneyjar Highland Center is situated at the edge of the country’s

most impressive and active volcanic area. It is the last stop before entering
the vast and untouched interior of Iceland. Hrauneyjar is close to many of
the most beautiful and popular tourist attractions in the highlands.
 Sigalda Canyon
Subject Series of small waterfalls cascading into a gorge, with nice blue water and green moss.
Waterfall Water from the reservoir above seeps through rock layers and finds its way out on the
Area south side of the gorge which was the riverbed of the River Tungná before it was dammed
Highlands for hydropower purposes.
Nearest town
N/A (Hrauneyjar Directions Seasons
petrol station on
road 26)
This location is a bit tricky to find – which The road into Landmannalaugar (F208)
is part of its charm and attraction. It‘s not from the Sprengisandur route (F26) is open
Access
marked on maps or with road signs. From from early June until the first autumn snow,
4x4
Sigöldustöð - Sigalda Hydroelectric Power which usually falls in mid-September or
GPS Coordinates Station, drive towards Landmannalaugar early October. Like other F-roads, this road
N64°09’462’‘
W019°07’494’‘
on road F208. At the top of the first hill, is not cleared in the winter time. There
Sigalda (which actually has some great are, however, super-jeep tours that go into
views and is worth a stop), there is a small Landmannalaugar in winter but don‘t try
track to the left and down towards Krókslón. getting there in a rental car.
The canyon is visible in front, with the
power plant reservoir behind it. Continue Our recommendation
slowly down the hill and onto the plateau A telephoto for a tighter shot of the
between the canyon and the lava, about waterfalls and the river, eliminating the sky.
half way towards the reservoir, to where the
turn into the canyon becomes visible. Park Our little secret
on the road (don‘t drive on the fragile flora). These falls are an insider secret. The buses
don‘t go there and very few tour operators
take the 5 minute detour on the way to
Landmannalaugar.

TIP
Sunny days give too
much contrast so
aim for cloudy skies
with soft light.

110
Sigöldugil in summer. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM
Canon 5D mark i f32, 4,0
August 21, 2012, 20:08 GMT ISO 100

Sigöldugil in winter. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 175mm

Canon 5D mark i f7,1, 1/60
November 25, 2010, 12:25 GMT ISO 3200

111
 Veiðivötn
Subject Veiðivötn is a series of crater lakes in the highlands north of Landmannalaugar. For
Mountains landscape photographers Veiðivötn is a visual feast: red lava against a black desert, bright
Area green moss reflecting in clear blue crater lakes, strange lava formations and stacks of
Highlands mountains in different colours.
Nearest town
Many volcanic and tectonic features, mostly with a south-west direction, are found in the
N/A
Veiðivötn region. Those include crater rows, single craters, cinder cones, faults, fissures, rift
Access valleys, hyaloclastite ridges and mountains, pillow lava sheets, along with many lakes.
4x4
GPS Coordinates
N64°08‘050‘‘
Directions Seasons
W018°47‘094‘‘ From Reykjavík, drive east on road 1 Summer to early autumn
about 15 km further than Selfoss, before
* The GPS point is
at the wardens hut,
turning left onto road 30. Continue for Our recommendation
just as a central about 30 km, then turn right onto road 32 Bring food and drinks for the day, there are
point for the area. and follow it until it joins road 26. Some no shops or cafés nearby.
15 km further, there is a petrol station
and guesthouse Hrauneyjar – which is Geology
the last chance for fuel. From Hrauneyjar Veiðivötn area contains the Tröllagígar
continue another 10 km or so further up craters that were formed during the
road F26. By the power plant at Vatnsfell latest eruption in the volcanic system,
(Vatnsfellsstöð), turn right onto road F228 between 1862-1864 AD, and produced
and continue around 20-25 km to reach the Tröllahraun lava sheet. This is where
Veiðivötn. When in Veiðivötn, there are we also find the great rift valley Heljargjá,
many routes around the lakes and endless the mountain Þóristindur (826 m) and the
motifs. extremely long volcanic fissure Vatnaöldur
which boasts a beautiful lineament of
There are a couple of unbridged streams on
craters and cinder cones formed in 870
the route which are normally not deep or
AD. The cinder cones Máni, Fontur and
fast flowing but be careful not to get water
Saxi near Heljargjá rift valley were probably
into the air intake of the vehicle.
formed in the early Holocene. The craters
found in the Veiðivötn lakes were created
during the last major eruption in the fissure
swarm in 1477 AD.

TIP
Fill up on gas and
coffee at Hrauneyjar
before going to
Veiðivötn.

112
Veiðivötn. Photo by Finn EF70-200 mm f/2.8L IS USM @ 155mm
Canon 5D Mrk II f32, 0,5 sec
August 23, 2012, 11:38 GMT ISO 100

Reflections in one of the crater lakes in Veiðivötn. Photo by Hawk EF70-200 mm f/2.8L USM @ 200mm
Canon 5D Mrk I f45, 0,8
August 23, 2012, 18:24 GMT ISO 100

113
 Þórsmörk
Subject Þórsmörk (Thorsmork) is a valley hidden between three glaciers in southern Iceland. It is
Mountains named after Þór (Thor), the Viking god of thunder, and the landscape is as grand as the
Area name.
South Iceland
Þórsmörk is a hidden pearl filled with winding gorges, flower-filled hillsides, crystal clear
Nearest town
streams and sheltered by three glaciers: Tindfjallajökull, Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull.
Hvolsvöllur
The mountains and the glaciers are standing guard and shielding the valley. Rock
Access formations twist and twirl towards the sky like stone arches of an ancient cathedral.
4X4 + hiking
Fluorescent Arctic flowers bloom in the spongy moss, adding brilliant splashes of colour to
GPS Coordinates the quiet interior landscapes.
N63°40’559‘‘ /
W019°29’014‘‘ The route into Þórsmörk takes you quite close to the outlet glacier Gígjökull where the
(Básar hiking hut) deluge from the famous Eyjafjallajökull eruption came gushing down under the glacier and
flooded the valley.
Þórsmörk is not easy to photograph, in the sense that there is not one obvious spot to
take a single good photograph of, but rather a large Nature Reserve full of opportunities
to capture a great variety of images, especially for people willing and able to walk a bit.
Þórsmörk is a favourite place for many Icelanders who hold it close to their heart. Visit and
you will understand why.

Directions by high clearance 4WD vehicles, as getting

Access is from the Ring Road (Route 1) there involves crossing the dangerous
approximately 25 km after Hvolsvöllur Krossá River. Regular 4WDs cannot make
and a few km after the bridge across the crossing, but there is a footbridge.
Markarfljót River. Turn left onto road 249, Though Þórsmörk is close to the Ring Road,
at the sign for Þórsmörk. The sign also only high clearance 4WD vehicles can
points to Seljalandsfoss (see page 70). reach the reserve, after crossing about 20
Soon after Seljalandsfoss, the road turns unbridged rivers and streams – which is
into a gravel road and eventually becomes exciting, until the engine floods.
mountain road F249. Note thera are several
TIP unbridged rivers and streams to cross. At Seasons
No insurance covers the end of the road, after approximately Þórsmörk is accessible by high clearance
damages to rental 25 km of a slow and rough drive, there is 4x4s from spring to autumn, for drivers
cars caused by an area known as Goðaland (Land of the with knowledge of crossing rivers. Please
crossing unbridged note: The water level of the rivers depends
Gods), which, as the name suggests, is
rivers, so you might
divine. The main camping area and parking on the weather, rainfall and temperature,
be saving a lot of
money by buying lot in Goðaland is Básar. and the rivers are often impassable. In
a tour with one summer, there are bus tours into Þórsmörk
Þórsmörk and the cabin in Langidalur are
of the excursion and Super-Jeep companies offer tours to
companies, either on other side of the valley, accessible only
Þórsmörk all through the year.
by bus or in a
Super-Jeep.

Bring your wading

shoes if you
intend to go into
Stakkholtsgjá
canyon.

114
Þórsmörk in winter. Photo by Hawk EF24-70mm /f2.8L USM @ 24mm
Canon 5D mark III f2.8, 6.0
February 28, 2014, 15:04 GMT ISO 200

Our recommendation Geology

Near Básar, there are hiking trails suitable for In Þórsmörk many unique hyaloclastite ridges
everybody. A detailed hiking map can be bought from are present, most of them formed by subglacial
the warden at Básar. Both large and small feet can fissure eruptions during the last glaciation. These
hike the “Básar Circle”, which is about a one-hour hike. hyaloclastite ridges are the subglacial manifestations
There is a beautiful view from the mountain Réttarfell, of subaerial fissure eruptions; another example is the
and the mountain Útigönguhöfði is suitable for those Laki eruption of 1783-1784.
who prefer exercising more. Hvannárgil canyon is like a The Þórsmörk ignimbrite is widespread over the area
wonderland. and it originates from a great explosive eruption in
On the way to Básar/Þórsmörk, don’t forget to stop at the Tindfjöll volcanic system, around 55 thousand
Stakkholtsgjá (Stakkholts canyon). It was dug out by years ago. The ignimbrite consists of two magma
water and has vertical walls. There is moss, angelica components, a dominating salic component
and ferns. Fulmars are everywhere, nesting high on (comendite), and a basic (mugearitic) component.
the canyon walls. At the bottom of the canyon – keep
left where it splits into two, there is a little waterfall,
tumbling from high up. Remember to bring your tripod.

115
 Kerlingarfjöll
Subject Kerlingarfjöll is a mountain range south-west of Hofsjökull glacier, which is the 3rd largest
Mountains & glacier right in the middle of Iceland. The ground level around Kerlingarfjöll is 600-700 m
Geothermal
above sea level and the highest peaks rise up another 800 metres, to around 1,500 m
Area a.s.l.
Highlands
The mountain range was formed in a series of sub-glacial eruptions during the later stages
Nearest town
N/A of the Ice Age. Calderas and rhyolite mountains abound, some with a lava top which
makes them rhyolite mesas that are quite rare. Kerlingarfjöll also has a lot of geothermal
Access
4x4
features such as sulphuric steam vents and boiling mud pools. Multi-coloured hot spring
mud, steam plumes, rhyolite mountains and glaciers add to the diversity and richness of
GPS Coordinates
N64°38’786’‘
colour in this otherworldly landscape. There are postcard photos to be had, abstracts of
W019°16’741’‘ ash patterns in the snow, macro shots of the fumaroles, countless S-lines in the canyons
and endless tonal combinations... It‘s a great playing field so we recommend you stay a
night or two at a mountain lodge.
On the way to Kerlingarfjöll is Gýgjarfoss. It‘s perhaps not the greatest of the endless
waterfalls in Iceland but it‘s there and well worth a bit of time (see page 118).

Directions The road from Kjölur to the mountain lodges

Coming from the south, drive from Gullfoss at Kerlingarfjöll is about 10 km, but the
on road 35, continuing for about 60 km best area to photograph is further up the
along the Kjölur route (F35) through the mountain. Go past the lodges and continue
highlands – it takes a couple of hours as up the hill to the end of the road at a small
the road is often quite bad with a lot of plateau surrounded by the peaks.
potholes. Lake Hvítarvatn can be sighted on
the left hand side and behind it Langjökull, Seasons
Iceland‘s second largest glacier. The turnoff The Kjölur route (F35) is only open in
to Kerlingarfjöll, onto route F347, is to summer, from around mid-June until the
the right - quite a bit further, but it‘s well first snow, which is usually in September.
FUN FACT marked and difficult to miss. See chapter on driving in the highlands and
Kerling means when the mountain roads usually open.
“old hag” and Coming from the north, from the Ring Road
fjöll means drive onto road 35 towards Hveravellir – Our recommendation
“mountains”. about 90 km away. After another 30 km or Stay a night or two in Kerlingarfjöll.
The names derives so, turn left onto route F347 to Kerlingafjöll.
from a lava pillar Bring warm windproof clothing and hiking
The Kjölur route (F35) is being improved so boots for the muddy terrain.
that the mythology
says is a troll hopefully there will be fewer potholes and
woman (old hag) the road will be open longer in the coming
that turned to years.
stone.

TIP
Remember to fill up
the petrol tank in
your vehicle before
you go to Kjölur.

116
Panorama of Kerlingarfjöll. Photo by Finn EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D mark ii f11, 1/60
June 30, 2014, 13:47 GMT ISO 100

Photographers in Kerlingarfjöll. Photo by Hawk EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

Canon 5D mark iii f10, 0,5
September 15, 2014, 18:55 GMT ISO 400

117
 Gýgjarfoss
Subject If you drive on Kjölur route (F35) through the highlands, it‘s an absolute must to visit
Waterfall Kerlingarfjöll (see page 116). Gýgjarfoss is on the way to Kerlingarfjöll. It‘s perhaps not
Area the most striking of the countless waterfalls in Iceland, but it‘s well worth a bit of time.
Highlands
There is a nice combination of dark muddy glacier water on the far side and clear fresh
Nearest town
water on the near side as well as some interesting rock formations around it, so plenty to
N/A (Kerlingarfjöll
Mountain Resort off play with.
Kjölur route) There are a few obvious angles: straight on to the waterfall from the flat cliffs in front of it
Access and at a 45° angle from the road, along the small gully with the red rocks. For the stout-
4x4 hearted and surefooted, there are good wide angle shots up close where you can capture
GPS Coordinates the fine trickling lines down the rocks in the foreground, have the main stream of the clear
N64°42’209’‘ fresh water in the middle and the angry muddy glacier river at the back.
W019°23’726’‘

Directions Seasons
Drive off the Kjölur route (F35), onto F347 The Kjölur route (F35) is only open in
towards Kerlingarfjöll. Gýgjarfoss is easily summer, from around mid-June until the
spotted on the right hand side by the road, first snow, which is usually in September.
just past the Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort See chapter on driving in the highlands for
chalets and the airstrip. information on when the mountain roads
Note: Remember to drive all the way to usually open.
Kerlingarfjöll (see page 116).
Our recommendation
Go to Kerlingarfjöll.

TIP
Wide-angle lens and
a polarizer.

118
Gýgjarfoss. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D mark iii f14, 1/13
September 15, 2014, 16:01 GMT ISO 100

Gýgjarfoss. Photo by Hawk EF16-35mm f/2.8L II USM @ 20mm

Canon 5D mark iii f22, 1/6
September 15, 2014, 15:43 GMT ISO 100

119
 Northern Lights
Iceland and the Northern Lights
The Northern Lights, also called Aurora Borealis, are one of the most spectacular shows on
this Earth and can frequently be seen in Iceland from September through March on cold,
clear and crisp nights. Iceland is located in the middle of the auroral belt, which stretches
from 60° - 70° north, so it’s an ideal destination for photographing the Northern Lights.
Iceland has better flight connections to both Europe and the US than many, if not most,
other places within the auroral belt.
There are basically two factors which determine whether the Northern Lights are visible:
1. Solar activity: Solar flares erupt and send electrically charged particles into space via
the solar wind, some of which hit the Earth’s magnetic field and create the auroras. The
activity varies from one night to the next and from one year to the next. If there are no
particles from the Sun hitting the atmosphere, there are no auroras.
2. Weather: If it’s cloudy and the stars are not visible, the auroras won’t be visible. A clear
sky away from the light pollution of the cities is needed.
Iceland has an island climate and very rapid changes in weather. However, if it‘s cloudy
in one part, it‘s often clear in another. The key thing is to follow the cloud cover forecast –
which unfortunately only predicts a few days ahead. There are no months when the skies
are typically more clear.

Seasons • A higher ISO is needed but it’s a trade off;

From mid-September to mid-March. The the higher the ISO, the more grainy the
auroras are happening all year but in the photo becomes, while a higher ISO needs
summer, it’s too bright to see them. It’s shorter exposure times and is therefore
possible to see them as early as August but less likely to make the auroras wash out
only at very late hours and for a short time in a green blur.
as the night is still short. • Use manual focus. Auto focus is difficult
in the dark, as you have nothing to focus
Photographing the Northern on in space. We often set the focus on
Lights infinity before heading out and use tape
General tips and advice on photographing to make sure it doesn’t shift in the field.
the auroras: • Use a cable release or 2-sec timer to
• Tripod is key as you will be shooting with avoid shake.
long exposures. A good foreground generally improves a
• Headlight is needed to see in the dark. photograph of the auroras, gives scale and
makes it more interesting. There are plenty
• Wide angle lens with a wide aperture is
of good foregrounds anywhere in Iceland:
best.
waterfalls, mountains, fjords, lakes and
• Longer exposures than 20-30 sec will glaciers.
make the stars blurry.

120
Aurora Bomb. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 16mm
Canon 5D MIII f2.8, 6
February 27, 2014, 21:23 GMT ISO 1600

Our recommendation The Northern Lights occur high above the surface of
Try to have a flexible itinerary so you can follow the the Earth where the atmosphere has become extremely
weather and find clear skies. thin, at an altitude of 100-300 km. The source of the
auroras are the electrically charged particles, protons
See the cloud cover and aurora forecast in Iceland here:
and electrons carried by the solar wind, that become
http://en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/
trapped in the Earth’s magnetic field and begin to spiral
Other helpful Northern Lights links: back and forth in a circle around the magnetic poles.
http://spaceweather.com/ While dancing around endlessly in their magnetic trap,
http://sec.noaa.gov/pmap/ some particles escape into the Earth’s atmosphere.
They hit molecules in the atmosphere causing the
Physics and a more technical molecules to glow, thus creating the auroras. White
description and green are usually the dominant colours but
The Northern Lights exist in the outermost layer of the sometimes there are considerable colour variations,
atmosphere. They are created by electrically charged as the pressure and composition of the atmosphere
particles that make the thin air shine, not unlike a varies at different altitudes. At extremely high altitudes
fluorescent light. Auroras or “polar lights” can be seen where the pressure is low, there tends to be a reddish
in auroral belts that form 20-25 degrees around the glow produced by oxygen molecules when they are
geomagnetic poles, both the north and the south. struck by the tiny particles of the solar wind. At lower
The Northern Lights are also called Aurora Borealis – altitudes, where there is higher pressure, impact-
“northern dawn”, named after the Roman goddess of irritated oxygen molecules may glow with a greenish
dawn, Aurora, and Greek god of the north wind, Boreas. tinge and sometimes there is a reddish lower border
created by particles colliding with nitrogen molecules in
the immediate vicinity.

121
 Volcanic
Eruptions
“Can I photograph a volcanic eruption in Iceland?”
A version of this question is frequently asked: “Can I see magma or red lava?”
The short answer is, sometimes.
There is a volcanic eruption in Iceland, on average every 3 years. Some eruption sites are
easily accessible whilst others are not.
At the time of writing (November 2014), there is an ongoing eruption in the northern
highlands, north of Vatnajökull glacier, and it’s not yet known when it is likely to stop.

It’s possible to see and photograph the The exception is the Hekla volcano which
eruption from the air but not from land is not under a glacier and which is easily
because access to the area is prohibited accessible. The last eruption in Hekla was
due to danger from poisonous gases. The in February 2000 and many believe Hekla
Civil Protection Agency has closed the area, is overdue for the next one.
subject to heavy fines.
Many travellers remember the effect the
Photographing volcanic
eruption in Eyjafjallajökull had on air traffic, eruptions
closing many airports in Europe (although General tips and advice on photographing
the Icelandic airports never closed). The volcanic eruptions:
Eyjafjallajökull eruption was under a glacier, • Safety first. Dangers can stem from
producing high clouds of ash, but no red poisonous gases, falling rocks, ash,
glowing lava, and it was not possible to get sudden flooding etc.
close to it. On the other hand, the previous • The twilight hours before sunrise and
smaller eruption in Fimmvörðuháls was the after sunset are the best to capture the
complete opposite; one could get very close reddish glow while still getting texture in
and photograph the red magma spewing up the landscape.
from the ground.
The most active volcanoes in Iceland: Our recommendation
Grímsvötn, Katla, Bárðarbunga and Get all the necessary information before
Eyjafjallajökull, are located under glaciers. attempting to venture close to an erupting
They are therefore not easily accessible volcano.
and generate ash plumes as the magma The Icelandic Met Office website provides
explodes when suddenly cooled by the ice. reliable information and updates.

122
Volcanic eruption in Fimmvörðuháls. Photo by Hawk EF70-200 mm + 1.4 extender, f/2.8L II USM @ 21
Canon 5D f5.6, 1/30
April 7, 2010, 20:58 GMT ISO 400

Eyjafjallajökull spewing ash into the air above my Photo by Hawk EF70-200 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 70mm
Canon 5D f9, 1/320
super-jeep and a crashed US Navy plane on the April 21, 2010, 16:50 GMT ISO 200
black sand beach.
123
 Aerial
Photography
Iceland offers a similar range in variety of scenery from the air as it does from the ground
but of course from a different perspective: cascading waterfalls, creviced glaciers, black
sand beaches, colourful mountains and even active volcanoes. A part from offering
different angles and perspectives to landscapes which are possible to photograph from
ground level, aerial photography also opens up a whole new world for abstracts. Among
the most popular abstract landscape features to photograph are:
• River deltas, where the river currents cross in a series of endless S-shapes
• Glaciers, creviced glaciers with blue ice and sandy streaks create great patterns
• Colourful mountains, rhyolite mountains in Landmannalaugar, Kerlingarfjöll and
Lónsöræfi that have a great array of tonal variation, often best captured from the air
• Snow patterns, the highlands in the spring and early summer often have photogenic
patterns of snow
• During high summer, unbelievable contrast between black sand and green mountain
ridges

Where? and a fast shutter speed (between 1/500

There are a few companies offering photo and 1/1000). This will freeze motion
flights, either by helicopter or small plane, and prevent camera shake. Do not brace
from different airports: Reykjavik, Bakki on yourself against the plane to help steady
the south shore, Skaftafell by Vatnajökull in the camera, because it will not work and
the south-east, Lake Mývatn in the north- you will only pick up extra vibration that way
east and Akureyri in the north. and make it even harder to get a great shot.
If you are flying low in a helicopter, you can
Seasons use a 24-70mm or 24-105mm zoom lens.
All year from Reykjavík, Bakki and Akureyri. In an aircraft you may be flying higher, so
Other, smaller airports might be more you will need a longer lens - a 70-200mm
seasonal and require prior arrangement. is a good choice. You might also want a
Of course, flights are quite dependent upon wide shot or two to help convey the feeling
weather. of flight, so if space permits bring a wide-
angle lens in the range of 16-35mm. You
Photographing from the air should be aware that the rotor blades on
Camera vibration is even more of a problem a helicopter or the struts of an airplane
when shooting from the air than it is will most likely be visible in wider-angle
from the ground. Airplanes, but more so images. That is fine if you want to portray
helicopters, produce a lot of vibration, and the experience of flying and you could crop
the speed of the aircraft can contribute them in post-processing.
to motion blur on your subject as well. Expect turbulence, so make sure your
Most likely, you will be using a zoom lens camera is on a strap and secured safely
so keep in mind that the magnification around your neck, or you may lose it if
will also magnify motion. For great aerial you are shooting with the door off or the
shots, you will need to use a higher ISO

124
Eruption in Holuhraun, north of Vatnajökull. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L USM @ 47mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f7.1, 1/200
December 5, 2014, 13:13 GMT ISO 200

window open. Even if you are not sitting next to an open As landscape photographers, we are used to using
helicopter door, you will still need to make sure your a tripod but for obvious reasons that might not be
camera is protected from unexpected jolts. possible in a plane. If the helicopter is landing and they
Do not use a lens shade. If you are photographing from have space, you could bring a tripod, but always ask
an open door or with an open window, the lens shade your pilot.
can blow off or it will create some extra draft. If you are flying with an open door or window, you stick
If you have two camera bodies, bring both. Things your camera out until you can find the drag from the
happen fast when flying and it’s usually not easy to wind and then you pull back a little.
change lenses in a tight cockpit of a moving plane or Be prepared for a big adventure and bring a big
helicopter. memory card.

125
 Markarfljót River from the air. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 30mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f7.1, 1/80
June 20, 2013, 09:14 GMT ISO 200

Gígjökull glacier in Eyjafjallajökull from the air. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 42mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f8, 1/80
June 20, 2013, 09:17 GMT ISO 200

126
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 “ Proper planning &
preparation prevents
piss-poor performance “
A photo trip consists of three basic parts: planning the • General Information on Iceland – Summary
trip, being on the trip and then processing the photos • When to Visit Iceland
and memories of the trip. The first part greatly impacts • Weather
the next two; with bad planning, the trip will be less
enjoyable and most likely give fewer good images to • Roads
work on after the trip. • Safety
Planning a photo trip can be exciting and fun but for • Gear
many of us, it’s time consuming and time is scarce. We • Sunrise & Sunset times
have gathered information on some key factors, and we • Icelandic Nature Words
hope that the following pages will make the planning of
Information on flights and accommodation is easy to
an Iceland photo trip a bit easier:
find online so there seemed no need to include it here.
Travel costs change from year to year and within the
year, as well as being subject to exchange rates, so this
is also not included.
Enjoy planning a fun photo trip to Iceland.

128
Auroas at Jökulsárlón. Photo by Hawk EF16-35 mm f/2.8L II USM @ 20mm
Canon 5D f2.8, 20 sec
September 4, 2012, 22:43 GMT ISO 800

129
 Deciding When to
Visit Iceland
Each season in Iceland has its own unique charm and as a photography destination Iceland offers a great variety of
options any time of the year. From a photographer’s perspective, deciding when to visit might include factors such as
the number of daylight hours available, quality of light, ambience you wish to capture, the type of scenery, accessibility
of locations, crowds, weather, etc. To help you decide, we have outlined some of the seasonal variations below.

Summer - June July and most of August Autumn – late August, September and
Summer is Iceland’s main tourist season, peaking from October
mid-June through August. June, July and August are the The number of tourists starts to drop after August 20
warmest months. The days, and nights, are bright with but increasingly more hotels keep the higher summer
nearly 24-hour daylight, and everything is in bloom. prices until mid or end of September as the number of
The Midnight Sun phenomenon in the southern part visitors is growing.
of Iceland can be experienced from mid to late June.
The temperature starts to drop getting into September,
After the summer solstice, the days start getting shorter
with colder nights as it gets dark but the days are often
again, but only gradually, and the nights are still bright
mild. Autumn colours adorn the landscapes; burnished
until August. The temperatures in the lowlands are
russets, reds and yellows sprinkled amongst the greens.
mild, whilst the snow in the highlands starts retreating,
However, as the season progresses, daylight hours
making increasingly more F-roads passable. A few
start to diminish, temperatures drop and the weather
F-roads become open at the beginning of June, many
becomes more volatile. Precipitation increases in
F-roads open in mid-June, but others are not passable
October, especially in the southern and western parts,
until July, so always check beforehand (see page
and there can be periods of storms and driving rain –
134) More remote locations in the highlands gradually
but that can and does happen in any given month in
become accessible, opening up many nature trails for
the year. However snow starts to fall in the mountains,
exploring and photographing. Summer adventure trips
areas in the interior become less accessible and some
and activities options are abundant. Camping and
highland roads are not cleared for snow. Nevertheless,
lodging choices are numerous; however, prices are
from mid-September onwards (until around mid-
higher and booking well in advance for activities and
March), there is a chance of seeing the fabled Northern
accommodation is essential. This might be the ideal
Lights, Aurora Borealis.
time for those who want the most light and are willing to
spend the nights photographing while others who prefer
solitude and tranquillity, this is perhaps not the ideal
season, although locations in Iceland are almost never
crowded.

130
Winter – November, December, January, Spring – April, May
February, March Spring is heralded by the return of the golden plover,
Winter can be a truly magical season in Iceland but also longer days and warmer weather. At lower elevations,
quite miserable. Daylight hours are limited and driving vibrant greens start to emerge, as vegetation bursts into
and photography conditions can be difficult, but Iceland life, and Iceland’s fascinating mosses are everywhere.
is perhaps at its most impressive and otherworldly Bird-watching season begins in April and May, and
at this time of year. However, the weather is highly puffin watching tours become available (although some
unpredictable, occasionally changing dramatically reserves are closed to visitors to protect the nesting
within hours, making planning for photography birds). If you wish to photograph wildlife, this is a
complicated. The wind and the cold can be fierce, good time to visit. Whale watching boat tours are also
especially when standing outside at night, sometimes offered.
for long hours, waiting to photograph the Northern Spring arrives slightly later in Iceland than in Europe
Lights – but, Aurora Borealis is a sight well worth waiting or North America, since Iceland is just south of the
for. Arctic Circle; however, daylight hours are roughly the
Highland roads are closed in winter, and some major same. Most sights along the Ring Road are open, but
roads can occasionally become closed due to snow, the highland roads are closed. The earliest opening
especially those outside of the south and south coast time for some of the F-roads in the interior is the end
routes. Roads that are open can become covered in of May (for many others, it’s not until July), subject to
snow and ice, making driving hazardous. Some of weather and snow conditions. On the other hand, tourist
Iceland’s most striking scenic features can become attractions and sightseeing locations are not crowded,
inaccessible because of impassable roads, except in and photography options are plentiful. In certain
specially adapted “Super-Jeeps”. Additionally, travel weather conditions, Icelandic landscapes can acquire
facilities in more remote areas are lacking in winter, and a particularly appealing, atmospheric and mysterious
grocery shops have limited hours. quality at this time of year.
If you are planning to visit in winter, good preparation
is vital. Being well informed about the local conditions Many of the most renowned sightseeing destinations,
and having equipment such as good protective gear especially those relatively near Reykjavík, are
and sensible shoes, will give you better opportunities to generally accessible all year-round, including the
explore the winter landscapes. If you are well prepared, Golden Circle attractions of Gullfoss, Þingvellir and
visiting in winter can be very rewarding for photography. Geysir. The Blue Lagoon spa in Reykjanes Peninsula
is always accessible. In the south, Seljalandsfoss,
Skógafoss, Vík, and Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon are
usually accessible. In the west, the diverse scenery of
Snæfellsnes Peninsula can be reached year-round, and
some country retreats in the Westfjords remain open.
In the north, the beautiful town of Akureyri, Iceland’s
second largest urban area, is always a delightful place
to visit and an array of picturesque nature locations are
accessible all year from Akureyri. Lake Myvatn has the
largest number of duck species and is therefore great
for bird photography.

131
 Icelandic
Weather
Referring to Iceland, an advertisement said, “The whole summit around noon, it was foggy and started to snow,
island is air conditioned!” Iceland’s cool, oceanic which turned to rain when we came down the mountain
climate is quite mild for its latitude of 63°-66° North, and in the afternoon, there was a refreshing wind and
thanks to the warm Gulf Stream. The summers are rain in our face.
short but bright and the best time to visit is late May to In Iceland, you can expect all kinds of weather in a
early September – that is, if you’re planning a summer single day. You can check out the weather forecast in
holiday. The average daytime temperature around the English on the website of the Icelandic Meteorological
coast during May to September is 10-12°C (50-55°F). Office: http://en.vedur.is/.
A very warm summer day would have temperatures
of around 20°C. Average daily sunshine in July and If you are looking to see the Northern Lights, the time to
August is 5-6 hours and during the summer months, visit is from September through March. Icelandic winters
the nights are bright. On clear days, you have 24 hours are not as cold as you might expect and the winter is in
of daylight and even the midnight sun near the Arctic many ways a more interesting time to visit Iceland. The
Circle. average temperature in Reykjavík in January, which is
the coldest month, is 0°C (32°F).
However, the weather is extremely changeable and
unpredictable so you should always be prepared for There is a saying in Iceland, as in many other countries:
the unexpected. A typical weather experience would be “If you don´t like the weather, just wait 5 minutes.” This
something like this: not only affects how to dress and which extra clothes to
bring but also the driving as the wind can reach close
Last June I went with a group of friends to the Hekla to hurricane levels very quickly. Consider this wind chart
volcano. Our journey started with beautiful clear skies from the Ring Road near Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon on
on a very still and sunny morning. When we reached the the south shore:

132
 The first letter “A” is for “Austur” which means East; 12
is 12 m/s wind force; the temperature is +10°C and
the red number on the right, 27, is wind gust in m/s
maximum value – which can be more than double the
average wind strength.
Below is a useful phone number: 1777 which is the
phone number of the Icelandic Road and Coastal
Administration (IRCA) – and they do speak English so,
when in doubt, please call to check the road conditions.
It‘s also possible to see the wind strength on the
website of the Road Administration. Here is an example
Notice how quickly the wind increases and that it‘s for the northern part of Iceland:
reaching 45 m/sec which equals over 100 mph.
http://www.vegagerdin.is/english/road-conditions-and-
There are weather signs along the Ring Road that weather/north-iceland/north1.html
inform drivers of the wind direction, wind strength,
temperature, and maximum wind gusts. Here is such a Click on the boxes for more details of each road.
sign on the Ring Road by Borgarnes: Icelandic abbreviations for wind directions:
• A = East
• V = West
• N = North
• S = South
NV = North West etc
Key websites to seek information on weather:
http://en.vedur.is/
http://www.vegagerdin.is/english

The changeable weather and clouds. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 mm f/2.8L II USM
Canon 5D
September 20, 2014, 17:58 GMT.

133
 roads
in Iceland
A large portion of Iceland’s road system is made up Here is a link to the brochure in English in pdf-format:
of gravel roads, even some of the main highways, the http://ww2.us.is/files/How_to_drive_in_iceland_A4_
more so as you get further away from Reykjavík and HQ_2012.pdf .
larger towns. The main highway around Iceland, Route
1, or Ring Road, circumnavigates Iceland in 1,332 The Interior Highlands
kilometres of which 33 km is dirt road. Most of the The mountain roads across the interior highlands are
population lives in or around Reykjavík so the further not open in winter and they are completely closed in
you get from the capital the less traffic there is. On spring. They start to open in late May, many in mid June
gravel roads you may encounter stretches with potholes but some not until July. Many of them are quite rough,
or “washboards” and occasionally some sand, but with lots of steep hills and unbridged rivers. The quality
mostly the roads are good. However, there are many of the roads depends a lot on how long it‘s been since
single lane bridges, even on the Ring Road and blind they were maintained and also on the weather. It can
hills (“blindhæð”/ “blindhæðir”, in Icelandic) and blind range from a relatively smooth gravel road to endless
turns. potholes and washboards.
The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration, IRCA NOTE: Off-road driving is strictly prohibited and carries
(Vegagerðin) has a website with maps and excellent heavy penalties.
information on current road conditions, including In the interior, there are no shops so you must bring
the interior highlands; weather conditions on certain enough food. The Icelandic Touring Association
mountain roads, safety information, webcam locations (Ferðafélag Íslands) is the biggest travel association
and lots more. If you intend to drive in Iceland, please in Iceland and it runs shelters and 38 mountain huts
visit the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration in numerous places in the Icelandic interior. However,
website: http://www.vegagerdin.is/english . Before these are often full, need to be booked long in advance
your journey, please ensure that you check the current and accommodation is not guaranteed. Some areas
situation for all main roads provided by the IRCA. are protected nature reserves where you must camp at
Icelandic roads can be dangerous, especially for designated campsites. Elsewhere you can rough camp
those unfamiliar with them and unused to travelling in almost anywhere except on private land, provided you
uninhabited areas and rough country. don’t leave any marks or litter. Ask permission if you
When driving in Iceland, remember to have your vehicle think the spot is privately owned.
headlights on at all times, day and night. Most rivers are unbridged and, at over 40 fords, signs
In terms of driving speed limits, the following applies: (“óbrúaðar ár”, in Icelandic) and notices have been
put up with instructions on how to ford rivers. Be sure
The speed limit in populated areas is usually 50 km/h.
to assess the strength of the current, depth and the
The speed limit is often 60 km/h on throughways, but nature of the riverbed before fording a river. If a river
in residential areas it is usually only 30 km/h. looks dangerous to cross, it probably is, and, if you
The main rule in rural areas is that gravel roads have are travelling by yourself, you should wait for someone
a speed limit of 80 km/h, and paved roads 90 km/h. who could keep an eye out and help you or get help
Signs indicate if other speed limits apply. if you run into trouble. Glacial rivers swell as the day
progresses and can be a lot more dangerous than they
The Icelandic Road Traffic Directorate (Umferðarstofa) look.
has produced a downloadable brochure in English,
German and French, accessible on their website. Check the weather forecast before heading into the

134
Icy road to Dettifoss in January. Photo by Hawk EF24-70 f/2.8L IS USM @ 51mm
Canon 5D f11, 1/4
January 26, 2011, 16:22 GMT ISO 500

interior highlands and every day while there. The in Iceland on their website: http://www.safetravel.
weather can change very suddenly. You should also ask is/ where you can also register your travel plan. It is
the wardens in the huts, and others, about conditions imperative to be well informed when travelling around
ahead. Sometimes rivers flood and bridges and roads Iceland, especially in the highlands, since the unfamiliar
are closed. In most areas you will find small rivers with terrain and the abrupt weather changes can otherwise
fresh spring water every few hours, but in certain areas prove hazardous. Travellers should prepare well for each
you may have to stock up on water for two days. trip and know its route conditions. This is the best way
The Icelandic Association for Search & Rescue, ICE-SAR to prevent accidents and ensure a safe and pleasant
(Landsbjörg), provides vital information for safe travel journey.

Note TIP
To the best of our knowledge, the following rules apply at all Icelandic car rentals: Do not stop on either side of a blind
hill. Always stop where other cars can
- No insurance covers damages occurring when crossing unbridged rivers and streams.
see you from a distance.
- No insurance covers the undercarriage of the vehicle.
Essentially, it means that if you lose or damage the rental car in a river, you´re liable.
If you damage the undercarriage, you are liable.
If you plan to visit places like Thorsmork Nature Reserve where you need to cross about
20 glacial rivers and streams, you might be saving money by going on a guided tour
rather than by driving yourself and risking having to pay for a new rental car.

135
 Icelandic Nature
– Friend or Foe?
We are drawn to nature again and again; it can show www.road.is and check if there are any alerts on www.
us beauty, make us experience something that we safetravel.is. It is sensible to make it a habit to check
have never encountered before and the details can these websites regularly on your trip. If you are travelling
sometimes be otherworldly. Icelandic nature is our in mountain areas in wintertime, do not forget to check
friend, when everything goes well. However, if we don’t whether there is a risk of avalanches as well as the
treat it with respect, it can suddenly show us its power. snow layers in the area.
There is an old joke that we Icelanders like to tell our Clothing is, of course, very important. For Icelandic
guests, which goes something like this: “If you don’t conditions, it is advisable to have three layers of
like the weather here in Iceland, just wait five minutes.” clothing: wool or insulated material closest to your
The truth is that sometimes this can be the case. During body, more insulation in the middle layer and the last
autumn, winter, spring and in mountain areas even layer should be wind & waterproof.
during summer, the weather can change very fast. Good communications devices are particularly
Good preparation is the key for successful travel important in rural and mountain areas. Mobile phones
in Iceland and part of that is to check the current are useful where there is coverage, but, where there is
conditions in the area you are travelling to. As well as none, other tools are needed. Spot or personal locator
checking the latest road conditions and weather, it is beacon is something everyone should consider if
important to get information from locals or others who travelling off the beaten track.
know the area. For photographers this can also be GPS, compass and a map, as well as first aid
valuable, as the best spots are sometimes only known equipment and other safety equipment should always
to locals. be part of your gear.
Safetravel website provides vital information for On the Safetravel website you can find suggestions for
safe adventure in Iceland. The first thing to do when equipment lists for different kinds of travel. There you
travelling off the beaten track is to leave your travel plan can also find helpful information about driving and
with someone. This is paramount for your safety, along travelling safely on our little island.
with the knowledge of the local conditions. On www.
safetravel.is/travel-plan/ you can leave your travel plan, Enjoy your trip.
send it to your contact and choose the option for the Jónas Guðmundsson
search & rescue to monitor your safe return. Project Manager, Safetravel
Next step is to check the weather forecast on www.
vedur.is, see what the road conditions are like on

136
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 Gear: What to Bring
to Iceland
Summary
The key to enjoying a photographic adventure in Iceland, as on any outdoor trip, is staying warm and dry. Therefore,
the first thing we recommend that you bring is good clothing, more precisely wind and waterproof shell (jacket and
trousers). This is true for all seasons, including summer. Good comfortable shoes and an extra pair would be sensible.
For camera gear, bring what you have and what you use. What you‘re most likely to need is more memory cards as
most visitors take more photos than expected. Of course, the camera gear needs protection from weather.

Lenses help to increase exposure time to get the silky effect

Bring your favourite landscape lenses and what you in moving water etc. The summers in Iceland can be
feel like carrying. It‘s difficult to generalize for all so bright that you will want to be able to decrease the
photographers, but most photographers will probably exposure time and that is where a Big Stopper or Grad
predominantly use a 24-70 mm or similar. filters will come in handy.
Our second most used lens is a telephoto, for abstracts,
Protective gear
close ups or simply when the subject is too far away
Prepare to protect yourself and your gear from wind and
and we can‘t get close enough.
rain.
A wide-angle lens is very useful when photographing
Bring Gore-Tex jacket & trousers for you and a
northern lights, to include a big sky, and often when
protective pack for your camera. Bring lens-hoods and
photographing waterfalls up close or inside canyons.
perhaps some zip-loc plastic bags or the specially
A lens with a wide aperture (low f-number) is good for
designed plastic covers or rain-sleeves for the lenses.
northern lights.
Consider bringing wellingtons, waders or sandals so you
can go into water to get that unique photograph (or just
Tripod
because it‘s fun).
Iceland is the second windiest inhabited place on Earth
(after the Falkland Islands) so, the sturdier the tripod, Note: Don‘t leave a wet camera in the camera pack for
the better – as long as it‘s not so heavy that you don‘t longer periods. Most cameras can handle getting a bit
feel like carrying it. Iceland is rugged so a tripod with wet in the field but locking the moisture in overnight is
independent leg movement is a big plus. Furthermore, a no-no.
it‘s good to have a tripod that can get the camera very
low or extra high. All sorts of small stuff
Lens cleaning tissues, since most wiping cloths are
Filters bad at absorbing moisture; so, bring a few packs of
We always recommend having a filter on the lens, if paper tissues to wipe rain off the lenses. Choose an
only to protect the lens. Replacing a filter is far less unscented tissue variety as there can be chemicals in
expensive than replacing a lens and, more often the scented ones and the chemicals can leave residue
than not, the filter we use is the circular polarizer. on the lens.
When photographing lakes, rivers, glaciers, beaches, Remote cable release for northern lights and longer
waterfalls and rainbows – all which are in abundance in exposures (but you can also use the 2-sec timer).
Iceland, a circular polarizer is the filter to have.
Battery charger and a plug/electricity adapter (Iceland‘s
While many bracket their exposures rather than using electricity is 2-pin 230V European standard).
a Neutral Density Grad filter, the ND Grad filters do

138
Hawk getting his feet wet. Photo by Finn EF70-200 f/2.8L IS USM @ 145mm
Canon 5D Mrk III f8, 1/125
September 9, 2013, 16:15 GMT ISO 400

Bubble level – to mount on camera hot-shoe, or fit into TIP

camera hot-shoe mount (depending on the type), to There is an excellent photo store
in Reykjavik which carries a larger
check if your camera is level, which can be useful on selection than stores in many
uneven ground and for stitched panoramas. metropolitan cities. We recommend
you visit Beco (www.beco.is)

139
 Sunrise
and Sunset
Reykjavík Mývatn
Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset
January 1 11:20 15:43 11:28 14:53
January 15 10:56 16:19 10:57 15:36
February 1 10:09 17:14 10:02 16:40
February 15 9:24 18:01 9:12 17:31
March 1 8:37 18:45 8:23 18:20
March 15 7:48 19:28 7:30 19:06
April 1 6:47 20:18 6:25 19:58
April 15 5:57 21:00 5:31 20:44
May 1 5:01 21:51 4:33 21:40
May 15 4:14 22:36 3:38 22:33
June 1 3:24 23:29 2:33 23:41
June 15 2:58 23:59 1:44 0:31
July 1 3:05 23:57 1:53 0:25
July 15 3:40 23:25 2:48 23:34
August 1 4:33 22:32 3:55 22:29
August 15 5:18 21:45 4:46 21:38
September 1 6:09 20:45 5:43 20:32
September 15 6:50 19:55 6:24 19:38
October 1 7:36 18:58 7:14 18:37
October 15 8:17 18:09 7:59 17:47
November 1 9:10 17:12 8:57 16:44
November 15 9:55 16:28 9:49 15:55
December 1 10:45 15:48 10:43 15:06
December 15 11:16 15:29 11:23 14:41

140
opening of
mountain roads
Mountain Roads Opening date Opening date Opening date
2009-2013 earliest latest average
Lakagígar, F206 05.06 28.06 15.06
Fjallabaksleið nyrðri, F208
1. Sigalda - Landmannalaugar 31.05 29.06 10.06
2. Laugar - Eldgjá 07.06 28.06 18.06
3. Eldgjá - Skaftártunga 31.05 10.06 08.06
Fjallabaksleið syðri F210
1. Keldur - Hvanngil 12.06 08.07 28.06
2. Hvanngil - Skaftártunga 12.06 08.07 28.06
Landmannaleið (Dómad.) F225 02.06 05.07 14.06
Emstruleið, F261 12.06 01.07 24.06
Kjalvegur, 35
1. Gullfoss - Hveravellir 05.06 22.06 12.06
2. Hveravellir - Blönduvirkjun 26.05 13.06 31.05
Sprengisandur, F26
1. Hrauneyjar - Nýidalur 10.06 05.07 22.06
2. Nýidalur - Bárðardalur 23.06 13.07 03.07
Skagafjarðarleið, F752 30.06 13.07 05.07
Eyjafjarðarleið, F821 04.07 13.07 06.07
Öskjuleið, F88
1. Inn að Herðubreiðarlindum 14.06 24.07 21.06
2. Herðubreiðarlindir - Dreki 15.06 25.06 21.06
Öskjuvatnsvegur, F894 15.06 07.07 23.06
Vesturd. (Hljóðaklettar), F862 03.06 25.06 05.06
Kverkfjalaleið, F902 14.06 24.06 19.06
Uxahryggjavegur, 52 24.04 31.05 12.05
Kaldadalsvegur, 550 05.06 29.06 14.06
Source: Icelandic Road And Coastal Administration web site

141
 Icelandic words in
connection with nature,
and a few others
Icelandic English Icelandic English
alda wave; hilly ridge fjall (pl fjöll) mountain
askja (pl öskjur) caldera fjörður (pl firðir) fjord
á (pl ár) river, stream fljót large river
ás small hill, ridge foss (pl fossar) waterfall
bær farm, township gata road, path, street
bakki river bank gígur crater
berg rock; rock face gil gorge, ravine
bjarg (pl björg) cliff, rock, boulder gjá canyon, chasm, fissure
blóm flower gljúfur gorge, canyon
borg city; crag grunn shoal, shallow
botn bottom/head of fjord hamar crag
brekka slope hálendi highlands
brú bridge háls ridge, isthmus
bunga rounded peak heiði heath, moor
dalur valley, dale hlíð mountain side
djúp long inlet, deep hnjúkur / hnúkur peak, summit
drag (pl drög) watercourse höfði promontory, cape
drangur (pl drangar) isolated column of rock höfn harbour
dreifbýli rural area, hinterland hóll rounded hill
dyngja dome hólmur islet
eiði isthmus holt stony hill
eldfjall volcano hraun lava field, lava
eldgos volcanic eruption hryggur ridge
ey (pl eyjar) island hvammur dell, (grassy) hollow
eyri delta, sandpit hver hot spring
fell mountain, hill hvoll hill

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Icelandic English Icelandic English
hvönn angelica skarð mountain pass
jökulhlaup glacier outburst flood sker skerry
jökull glacier skógur forest
jökulsá glacial river ský cloud
kirkja church slétta plain; grassland
klettur rock, cliff staður place
kot small farm stapi bluff, crag
kvísl river, branch of a river stræti street
landslag landscape steinn stone, rock
lækur brook strönd beach, coast, seashore
laug (pl laugar) hot spring; pool; bath súlur mt peaks; columns
lón lagoon tangi narrow peninsula
melur gravel; barren plain tindur peak, summit
múli headland; spur tjörn small lake, pond
mýri swamp tunga tongue (of land)
mörk forest, woods tún farmstead, hayfield
náttúra nature vað (pl vöð) ford
nes peninsula, headland varða cairn
núpur / gnúpur peak; spur vatn (pl vötn) water; lake
oddi point; tongue of land vegur road, track
ós estuary ver grassy spot
öræfi wilderness vík inlet, small bay
reykur smoke, steam vogur inlet
rif reef völlur (pl vellir) field, plain
sandur sand(s)
skagi peninsula

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 General Information
on Iceland
Before Your Journey to Iceland
Please view the website of the Icelandic Directorate of Immigration for information on passport and visa requirements,
as well as the Schengen Area regulations.

Business | Shopping | Banking Hours Shopping in Iceland

Office hours are generally 09:00-17:00 and 08:00- The shops in Iceland are of international standard and
16:00 during June, July and August. Shopping carry a wide variety of merchandise. Local specialities
hours are Mon-Fri 09:00-18:00, Sat from 10:00 to include uniquely crafted woollen knitwear (sweaters,
13:00/14:00/15:00 or 16:00. Some supermarkets are cardigans, hats and mittens), handmade ceramics,
open to 23:00 seven days a week. Banking hours are glassware and silver jewellery as well as Icelandic
Mon-Fri 09:00-16:00. outdoor wear and designer fashion. Also available is a
great variety of high-quality seafood.
Currency Exchange
The Icelandic monetary unit is the Icelandic krona Tax-Free Shopping
(Íslensk króna) - ISK. Coins are in denominations of 1, A refund of local Value Added Tax (VAT) is available
5, 10, 50 and 100 krónur (pl. of króna). Bank notes to all visitors to Iceland. The refund will result in a
are in denominations of 500, 1000, 2000, 5000 and reduction of up to 15% of the retail price, provided
10000 krónur. All Icelandic banks provide foreign departure from Iceland is within 3 months after the
exchange and are generally open on weekdays from date of purchase. The purchase amount must be no
09:00 to 16:00. There is a bank at Keflavík airport, less than ISK 4000 (VAT included) per store. All goods
open every day and for longer hours. Exchange rate is (except woollens) need to be shown at customs before
set by the Central Bank of Iceland, see: http://www. check-in. At Keflavík airport, this applies only to tax-free
cb.is/exchange-rate/. forms the refund value of which exceeds ISK 5000.
All other forms can be refunded directly in cash at
Travellers Cheques | Debit & Credit Landsbanki Íslands bank in the departure hall.
Cards
All the above are widely accepted in Iceland. The Post Offices
major credit/debit cards used in Iceland are VISA and There are post offices located in all major communities
MasterCard but Amex and other cards are not as widely in Iceland. General hours are Mon-Fri 09:00-16:30, but
used. Cash can be obtained at every branch, as well some post offices are open longer.
as in all ATMs throughout the country. Please note that
there might be a difference between the official currency
exchange rate in Iceland and the exchange rate that the
credit card companies do ultimately charge.

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Telecommunications & Wi-Fi Northern Lights
Direct calls can be made to all parts of Iceland. The The magical Aurora Borealis can frequently be seen
code to Iceland from overseas is +354 and a seven- in Iceland from September through March, provided
digit number. Direct long-distance calls can be made to that solar activity is sufficiently high and the weather
Europe and the USA by dialling 00 or +, and then the conditions are favourable. Iceland is unique in that the
country code, and the telephone number you wish to Northern Lights can be seen in every part of the country.
reach. The Icelandic Met Office provides Aurora Borealis
Mobile phones / GSM: There are four GSM operators forecast for Iceland: http://en.vedur.is/weather/
in Iceland: Síminn, Nova, Tal and Vodafone. Together forecasts/aurora/.
they cover most of Iceland, including all the towns and For more information on Northern Lights and
villages with over 200 inhabitants. These telephone photographing them, please go to page 120.
companies sell pre-paid GSM phone cards as well as
offer GSM/GPRS services. Pre-paid cards are available Midnight Sun
at petrol stations around the country. Iceland has During summer, the nights are bright in all of Iceland.
surprisingly good network coverage and is quite tech- In the month of June, the sun never fully sets in the
savvy. More information can be found on the Síminn north. There are even special excursions to the island of
website: http://www.siminn.is/english/. Most hotels Grímsey on the Arctic Circle where you can experience
and many guesthouses will have Wi-Fi. the phenomenon of the midnight sun. The sun at
midnight is not as warm as at midday, so do bring
Weather | Climate along a sweater.
Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Iceland enjoys a cool
temperate maritime climate: cool in summer and fairly Time
mild in winter. However, the weather is very changeable Iceland is on Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) throughout
and tourists should be prepared for the unexpected. the year, and does not go on daylight saving time.
Average temperature in Reykjavík in July is around
11°C (c. 52°F), while temperature in January is around Health | Pharmacies | Medical Help
0°C (32°F). However, temperatures vary considerably Icelanders enjoy a healthy life, thanks to clean air and
from one region of Iceland to another. The Icelandic water and quality fish. Water is safe to drink throughout
Met Office provides an extensive range of weather Iceland. Pharmacies/chemists are called “apótek” and
related information in English and has excellent articles are open during normal business hours. Many are open
showing annual temperature averages in Iceland over at night. In Reykjavík, the pharmacy Lyfja, on Lágmúli 5
the past few years. For more information on weather, (tel.: 553-2300), near the Hilton Reykjavik Nordica, is
please go to page 132. open every day from 08:00 until midnight. For contact
details of pharmacies in other locations in Iceland,
Clothing | Footwear please go to: http://www.lyfja.is/ThjonustaILyfju/
When travelling in Iceland bring along lightweight Apotek/; listed under Apótek.
woollens, a sweater or cardigan, a wind and rainproof Reykjavík has a great many general practitioners, as
(weatherproof) jacket and trousers. Hats, scarves and well as specialists, many of whom will receive patients
gloves are good to have year-round, especially on at short notice. There are also many health centres
nature exploration or boat tours. Travellers who are in Reykjavík, with officially appointed family doctors
camping or heading into the interior highlands will need who receive patients at short notice during the day.
thermal underwear and socks, weatherproof outer layer, For information, tel.: 585-1300. Outside of normal
rubber/ waterproof boots with good grip, and a warm business hours, for non-emergency medical assistance,
sleeping bag. dial 1770. For dental emergencies, tel.: 575-0505.
Iceland has numerous indoor and outdoor swimming
pools, usually with natural geothermal water; therefore,
in any season you should bring a swimsuit.

145
Emergency Medical Help • 1 May - Labour Day
24-hour emergency phone number in Iceland is 112 - • 14 May - Ascension Day,
for ambulance, police and fire services. • 24 May - Whit Sunday
There is a medical centre or a hospital in all major • 25 May - Whit Monday
cities and towns in Iceland. Please also read safety • 17 June – Iceland’s National Day – Icelandic
information on www.safetravel.is. Independence Day
• 3 August - Bank Holiday Monday; first weekend in
Insurance
August
We advise travellers to have comprehensive travel
insurance. In case medical assistance is needed, • 24 December - Christmas Eve (from noon)
citizens of other Nordic countries need to show their • 25 December - Christmas Day
passport. Citizens of EEA countries and Switzerland • 26 December - Second Day of Christmas
need to show their passport and present a valid • 31 December - New Year’s Eve (from noon)
European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) otherwise they
Hotels, restaurants and most tourist places are
will be charged in full. Citizens of non-EU/EEA countries
generally open all year but some close for Christmas.
will be charged in full. For further information, please
contact the Icelandic Health Insurance by phone: +354-
Religion
515-0000 or visit their website http://www.sjukra.is/
The established religion in Iceland is Lutheran.
english/tourists/.
Language
Vaccinations Icelandic is a North Germanic language of the west
Vaccinations are not required.
Scandinavian group, believed to have changed little
from the language spoken by the Norse settlers
Police
during the Viking Age. English is widely spoken and
Emergency phone number in Iceland is 112 – for police,
understood. Icelandic has several letters of its own,
fire and ambulance services.
including: Þ/þ, pronounced like th in “thing” and Ð/ð
Reykjavík police phone number for information only is: pronounced like th in “they.”
+354-444-1000.
Tipping
Public Holidays Service and VAT are customarily included in prices in
Offices, banks and most stores are closed on these Iceland.
holidays:
• 1 January - New Year’s Day Electricity
The electric current in Iceland is 220 volts, 50 Hz AC;
• 2 April - Maundy Thursday
European standard.
• 3 April - Good Friday
Europlug/Schuko-Plug (CEE types) - plugs have two
• 5 April - Easter Sunday
round prongs.
• 6 April - Easter Monday
• 23 April - First Day of Summer; usually 3rd Thursday
in April

Want information
on Iceland? Find it on
www.IcelandOnTheWeb.com
Signing
off
Thanks for making it all the way through our little to go out and search for better compositions, different
book. Hopefully it will help you plan an Iceland photo light or just to be out in nature. We are truly lucky to
adventure, get many great images but mostly enjoy be surrounded by wonderful nature and ever changing
the whole experience. We encourage you to get out light. We are certain that when you come to Iceland
there, be there, enjoy and make things happen. Some you will get the same sense of freedom and be inspired
times you are happy with your imagery and sometimes by the landscape – and although we truly believe
not so happy but it’s the moment that matters - It is your best photograph will be a motive unplanned in
being there. Similarly we enjoyed making this ebook; an unexpected moment, we hope you enjoyed our
going through our images; sometimes being happy knowledge about Iceland and Iceland’s nature, the
with them and sometimes not so much and wanting imagery, and the emotions on nature and landscape.

Finn & Hawk,

Iceland enthusiasts and keen photographers

Please check out our photo-websites:

www.fpf.is
www.Hawk.is
147
As far as we go. Photo by Finn

Hawk‘s new photo book; Fun Facts & Photos of Iceland. Available in spring 2015.