Utah State University

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Archived Gardening Publications Archived USU Extension Publications

1989

Horticulture Fact Sheets

Jerry L. Goodspeed
Utah State University Extension

Larry A. Sagers
Utah State University Extension

Duane Hatch
Utah State University Extension

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Warning: The information in this series may be obsolete. It is presented here for historical purposes
only. For the most up to date information please visit The Utah State University Cooperative
Extension Office

Recommended Citation
Goodspeed, Jerry L.; Sagers, Larry A.; and Hatch, Duane, "Horticulture Fact Sheets" (1989). Archived Gardening Publications. Paper 1.
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 COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY

PREPARING
GARDEN SOIL
HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET-FS - H1

By Duane Hatch, USU Extension Horticulturist

Agood garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well-drained, near Unless the ball shatters, do not try to rototill. You'll get
neutral, and has a lot of decayed organic mauer. The ideal hard clods and preparing a good seedbed will be difficult. As
is seldom available, so the good gardener may have to you use soil improving techniques discussed later, you can
improve what is at hand! Vegetables and other plants will hasten the gardening time.
grow satisfactorily with a wide range ofsoil types from sand
to clay if certain steps are followed for overcoming their MIXING
basic short-comings.
When the soil has dried snfficientIy, spade or rototill to a
Utah garden soils are almost all alkaline to some degree. On depth of about 6-8 inches. Garden soil doesn't need to be
a scale with pH 7 being neutral, many vegetables will grow "flour-fine." Leave marble-sized particles and crusting will
quite well from 6.0 to 8.4. Samples submitted to the USU not be as severe as with over prepared soil. You'll need to
Soil Testing Lab will determine the pH, salts concenlration use a rake to pulverize clods. Level and compact the soil for
and level of nutrients. You will be sent a fertilizing guide. a firm seedbed. The final soil surface should be as level as
The cost is $12 and sampling information is available from possible for uniform water penetration.
the USU Extension office in your county.
SOIL IMPROVEMENT
HAULING SOIL
Clay soils have the ability to hold moisture well (often too
In most instances you are betteroffto work with the soils that well) and usually contain more nutrients than light soils.
you have. You know what their problems are. Hauled in soil They dry slowly in the spring so early planting ofcrops is not
may not be any beuer than that in your yard. It could be a possible. Water penetration is slow so irrigation water often
source of noxious weeds that you don't have. If you need to runs off instead of entering the root zone.
cover a rock or coarse gravel bed or raise the level of a yard
area, "fill" may be needed. It mayor may not improve an Sandy soils are easy to work but have low water holding
area in which you wish to grow plants. capacities, so plants may suffer from moisture stress in hot
weather. Nutrients may be lost as irrigation water moves
TIMING downward through the soil.

Many gardeners are impatient and damage the soil structure These almost opposite drawbacks of both soil types can be
by rushing the season. Soils that gardeners call "gumbo" or corrected by the same techniquc----adding organic matter.
"adobe" are usually a loam type that one tries to prepare too Fine clay particles can be physically separated by coarse
early. organic material. Nutrient and water holding qualities of
sandy soils can be increased. As the organic matter breaks
Test t/lis way: take a handful ofsoilfrom a 3 inch depth. down, its components continue to have soil improving
Squeeze it firmly in the hand. Drop it on a side-walk. characteristics.

The Utah Cooperative Extension Service, an equal opportunIty en..,loyer, provides programs and services to all persons
regardless 01 race, age, sex, colo,. religion, national origin or handicap.
Issued In furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation whh the U.S. Department of Agriculture. R. Paul Larsen,
Vice President and Director, Cooperative Extension Service, Utah State University.
Begin by incorporating 2 to 3 inches of organic matter 6 to manure crop is turned under also. If the manure is quite fresh
8 inches deep. This application will not last forever and you and/or well protected from leaching by rains and other
should plan to add about 2 more inches each year. With weather elements it may not need added nitrogen. For more
heavy soils, you'll need two or three years to see much ofan details, refer to the "Mulches and Compost" fact sheet.
improvement. Summer mulching or compost addition will
be helpful. TOUGH CLAY SOILS

SOURCES OF ORGANIC MATTER Although it may be expensive and difficult to apply, a two
inch layer of sand, in addition to the organic matter, will
You will need a lotto do the job so look for abundant, inex- help your ability to garden in soils with a high clay content.
pensive materials. Leaves from deciduous trees may be If sand is used without the organic matter, low grade con-
gathered in the fall for composting and/or soil incorporation. crete may be formed with the fme clay particles acting as
Needles from conifer trees may also be used. Bark, saw- cement!
dust, shavings, and other wood products are less likely to
contain weed seeds than are manures. Peatmos, is an SOIl. AMENDMENTS
excellent material, high in organic matter and somewhat
acidic. Cost is a major factor for the quantities needed. Soil preparation information from more humid areas may
Manure may be available and is an excellent source of suggest time to neutralize acid soils. lime is not needed in
organic matter. If well handled, it may contain substantial Utah soils because nearly all have an alkaline reaction.
nutrients when used in sufficient quantities. It may also be
a source of viable weed seeds that survived the trip through Dolomite is another form of lime. Gypsum is neutral in its
the animal's digestive tract. Straw, depending on the kind, reaction and will not acidify alkaline soils. It may be
may also create weed problems. Grass clippings, green promoted as an "alkali fighter." That reference is to the high
manure crops and kitchen vegetable trimmings may be sodium soils or "black alkali" areas where crops grow
used. These tissues are mostly water, their cells are not poorly, if at all. It is not needed on the general range of
mature and don't contain the lignin and waxes which pro- garden soils in Utah. Don't expect gypsum to alter the soil
duce long term soil improvement. Grass clippings are an strocture and improve its workability. Use organic maner to
excellent material to mulch the garden soil surface to reduce do that.
weed problems and to conserve moisture. Don't apply a lot
at once. A one-half inch layer will dry out quickly and not CHANGING A LAWN TO A GARDEN
get slimy.
It is best not to mix the sod into the soil. A thatch layer can
ADDING NITROGEN make it difficult to establish a good seed bed. In addition,
grass clumps may sprout and be a serious weed problem.
Large quantities of mature, woody type products such as
sawdust, bark,leaves, straw, etc., will promote nitrogen de- Sod strippers can be rented that will make grass removal
ficiency in plants because oftheir high carbon content. Over- easier and minimize soil losses. A sharpened shovel will cut
come this problem by adding a nitrogen fertilizer when the sod, but is a great deal of work if the area is large. Skim
incorporating them into the soil. Ammonium sulfate (21 % the sod just below the crown and don't remove an excessive
nitrogen) is readily available and quite inexpensive. Use I amount of soil.
pound (I pint) per 100 square feet for each I inch of woody
mulch mixed with the soil. You may substitute 2/3 pound of By saving the stripped sod, you have a good source of
ammonium nitrate (34%) or '/2 pound of urea (45%) for the compost to add to the garden later. Stack the sod, soil side up
one pound of ammonium sulfate. with a sprinkling of ammonium sulfate between layers.
Cover the whole pile with black plastic to kill the sod and
Manures vary in their quality. If mixed with large amounts promote decomposition.
of bedding materials, there may not be enough nitrogen to
decompose it and feed the crop. Use one-half the nitrogen Once the lawn has becn removed, follow the soil preparation
rate suggested above. Use this one-half rate when a green steps listed earlier.
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY

GROW MORE FOOD

IN A SMALL AREA

HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET-FS· H3

By Duane Hatch, USU Extension Horticulturist

We all nccd to usc resources wisely. Some arc in shortsupply clay soils and add nutrient and water holding capacity to
and almost all arc expensive. Has the lack of a large garden sandy soils. Usc abundant. inexpensive materials such as
area been your excuse for not supplying fresh nutritious leaves, sawdust, wood shavings, old hay or straw. Some of
vegetables and fruits to your family? By adopting the these products may contain weed sccds. To avoid nitrogen
techniques suggested here, studying a little more about deficiency and pale plants, add I pound (I pt.) ofammonium
principles we don't have room to explain fully-then getting sulfate for each I inch of material per 100 square feet. If
at it, you'll be surprised allhe potential your yard has for food enough composted material or manure is available, reduce
production. the ammonium sulfate rate by half. Peat moss, perlite or
vermiculite can provide the loosening effect but will be more
GARDEN LOCATION expensive. To maiotain this improved tilth and structure,
add organic material each year.
Don't be locked into the traditional "garden behind the house
and fence" syndrome. You may not wanta whole front lawn FERTILIZE ADEQUATELY
replaced by a com or potato patch, but a few folks have done
it! Food crops may be planted in parking slrips, comers of Well grown plants will yield more and will be less subject to
lots, along fences, surrounding patios and in other spots your disease and insect attack. It's important to provide nutrients
active mind can imagine. As little as 100 square feet (10' x so plants get a good start early in the season. Choose one of
10' or 20' x 5') can be used to grow a lot of good eating. these methods: I) Broadcast-scatter about I 1/2 Ibs. of a
fertilizer such as 16-16-8, per 100 sq. ft. and mix with 2 - 3
Many food plants are attractive enough to plant as ornamen- inches ofsoil before planting. 2) Band-a more efficient use
tals alone orcomhincd with nowcrs an (I oLhcr IX>rdcr plants. of fertilizer but takes more time. WiLh a hoc, make a furrow
CllCX)SC from rhubarb, chard,leaf )Cllucc in a rangeof colors, 3 inches deep. Putt/J - tf,cup or 16-16-8, 16-20-0 or similar
small tomato plants, eggplant, herbs such as opal, basil, fertilizer along each 10 ft. of row. Seed or transplants should
parsley, or sage, strawberries and other plants with attractive be placed about 2 inches away from the fertilizer band at
foliage such as carrots, flowering kale, etc. their proper planting depth.

The watering and fertilizing schedule of a lawn isn't condu- Most plants will need additional nitrogen during the season.
cive to best performance of fruit trees. Why not put them by This is especially Irue if leaves, sawdust or other not-eom-
the walls or fences at the edge of the lot? With size and shape posted organic materials have been used for soil improve-
manipulation (espalier) they'll remain small for easy pruning ment. Plants show nitrogen deficiency quite readily by
spraying and picking. Apples and pears require the most turning a yellow or pale green color. Look for this about 4-
intensive spray program for pest control, with other suited 5 weeks after planting. Green them up quickly by supplying
fruit kinds not as critical. a soluble nitrogen fertilizer such as ammonium sulfate (21-
0-0) If, cup, or ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) at '/3 cup per 10
SOIL MODIFICATION fcct of row. Scatter the product over the soil surface just
before an irrigation and the water will take illO the root zone.
Most soils will benefit from the mixing of 2 to 3 inches of Tomatoes may produce excessive foliage and few ripe fruits
organic mattertoa 6 inch depth. This will help loosen heavy if they rcceive too much nitrogen. Usc Iitlle ifany fertilizer
'lncr planting.
The Utah Cooperative ExtensIon Service, an equal opportunity employer, provides programs and servIces to all persons
regardless 01 race, age, sex, color, religion, national orIgin or handicap.
Issued In furtherance of Cooperative Extension wori<, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. R. Paul Larsen,
Vice President and Director, Cooperative Extension Service, Utah State University.
OSE SPACE WISELY very early ill tllcsj)ring. Properly prcparedsoiJ with drainage
and good tilth make this an easier task. Some ofthesc early
A single file row isn't the way to get. high yields. Precision planted, short season crops will be harvested in time for a
planting to give each plant its space to develop will permit planting of beans! lettuce or cauliflower to mature. In l~\Cl
wide row orbed planting. Lay out the garden to provide a 16- many of d,ese carly, cool season crops may be planted as late
18 inch walkway for your feet. Arrange the plants in 3 '/2-5 as July 10-15 and extend the garden season nntil well after
feet wide areas where there is no traffic to compact d,e soil the last frost.
and inhibit root growth.
It's best not to try to rush the planting time of peppers,
tomatoes, cucumbcrs squash and other warm season vege··
j

SJJGGESTl\D YEGETAIlI,J<; SPACING IN INCHES k~bles. They perfonn much better if plaming is delayed until
the soil has warmed, about two weeks after the last frost.
Beans (Bush) 6x6 Lettuce-Leaf 6x6
Beans (Pole) 4 x 36 Lettuce-Head 12x 12 Several techniques will allow extending the growing season
Beets 4x4 Onions 3x3 earlier and later and may hasten vegetable maturity. A clear
Broccoli 18 x 18 Parsnips 4,4 plastic plam covering supported by wires or frames can give
Cabbage 18 x 18 Peas 2x2 some freeze proteetion and provide faster growth. Hot caps
Cantaloupe 36 x 48 Peppers 12x 12 may protect newly set plants when they are small. The waH
Carrots 2x2 Potatoes 9x9 o' walcr is a relativcly new, improved cover for individual
Cauliflower 18 x 18 Radish 1x 1 plants. This plastic cylinder of water-filled tnbes provides
Chard 6x6 Spinach 4x4 an amazing degree of cold protection.
Com (Sweet) 9 x 24 Squash (Summer) 48 x 48
Cucumbers 12 x 48 Squash (Winter) 60 x 60 Black or clear plastic that covers d,e soil 2 '/2_3 feet wide
Egg Plant 18 x 18 Tomatoes 24 x 24 throngh which plants grow can hasten maturity of warm
Kohlrabi 4x4 WatcmlC!on 60x 60 season crops like melons or tomatoes. The clear plastic
provides more soil warming than docs black. Black plastic
aHows no weed growth. In most Utah gardens, the weeds
will germinate under the clear plastic, but the heat during a
Retaining walls to raise the soil level can help make neat summer day will burn off most of lhem.
gardens. If the soil is well drained and easily worked, raised
beds aren't necessary so you may save work and expense. GENERAL GOIDELINES
Train sprawly plants np fences. Use netting for encumbers, The foundation ofa sneeessful garden is the proper choice of
beans and tall peas to climb. Stake tomatoes npright or usc suited varieties. Select from those tested and recommended
a wire cage. Plant only the crops your family will use. Con- by Utah State University. A heaWly, vigorous garden will be
eentrateon those that you prefer really fresh over supermar- less subject to insect and disease attack. Visit the garden
ket kinds or that you will process for later use. Examples of frequently to discover problems before they become epi-
those that produce well for the space they occupy arc snap demic. Control the pests after iden tifying them and choosing
beans, cucumber, chard, broccoli, zucchini, tomatoes, car- proper methods.
rol" lettuce, beets, onions. Some that do not yield very much
for the space taken are com, cauliflower, peas, potatoes, Don't let weeds win. Beds of closely spaced plants that
celery and radishes. qnickly shade thc soil reduce weed germination. Organic
mulches such as lawn clippings or leavc.') drastically reduce-
Grow radishcs or leaf lettuce whilc widcly spaced plants need for hoeing. Thcy cool the soil so wait until later to
such as squash or tomatoes are developing. Some low mulch warm season crops like tomatoes, peppers and mel-
growing planls such as parsley archives will survive among ons. Plastic mulches, discussed above, also provide weed
taller plants. Plant pole beans when com is about 12-15 control. Shallow, rcgnlar cultivation destroys small weeds
inches high and they will have ready-made supports. Seed before they compete with crops for moisture, nutrients and
eak~logs list some varieties that have a smaller growth habit. light. Consider a drip system as an efficient water and labor
saving method. It costs a little extra to instaH, but itis easily
SEASON·LONG CROPPING done and makes gardening a lot more fun. Other methods
may be used, but remember that qnality, fast growing vege-
Several vegetables including onions, spinach, pcas, cab- ulbles arc about 90-95% water and you need to apply it
bage, radishcs, turnips, kohlrabi and broccoli may be planted properly.
 COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY

FERTILIZING LAWNS

HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET-FS - H4

By Larry A. Sagers, USU Extension Honiculturist

FERTILIZERS TYPES OF NITROGEN

All fenilizers have their contents printed on the bag or label. The fenilizer label indicates, besides the amount ofnitrogen,
A bag of fertilizer marked 10-8-6 contains 10% nitrogen,8% whether it is water soluble or water insoluble. The water
phosphate (P,o,) and 6% potash (K,o). soluble form is more rapidly available to the plant. Waler
insoluble nitrogen is more slowly available. The latter form
The rate of solubility and availability of the nutrients varies is more expensive but may be more convenient as a single
wilh individual brands and analyses. Inorganic fertilizers are application will supply the needs of the plant for a longer
usually more rapidly available and higher in analysis lhan period of time.
organic forms. Some fertilizers are combinations of organic
and inorganic forms. FERTILIZER RATES
The order of importance of the three fertilizer nutrients for For a well kept lawn in Utah, apply I pound of available
lawns is nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. nitrogen per 1,000 square feet each 4to 6 weeks throughout
the growing season. The following chart indicates how
Nitrogen is lhe most important element in developing a much of various fertilizers will supply I pound of nitrogen.
dense, attractive turf. Unless fenilized regularly, most lawns
are deficient in nitrogen. This causes slow growth, narrow Pounds of Fenilizer
%Non
leaves, and a light yellow-green color. There is no direct test Per 1000 Square Feet
I,aheJ
for soil nitrogen. Recommendations are based on experi-
mental results. These may be modified according to lhe
12-15 7-8
amount of watering and whether or not clippings are re-
18-21 5-5'1z
moved. Soils vary in the atDount ofavailable phosphorus and 3'/,_4
24-28
potassium. This information is given in a soil test report. 3-3'/,
30-34
Deficiencies are not as obvious as that of nitrogen, but may 2-2'/,
45-46
cause stunted growth and winter damage.

Soil test summaries in the Salt Lake City area have shown FERTILIZER APPLICATION
that 90 percent of lawn SalOples are high or very high in
phosphorus. Potassium is also usually adequate for lawn Read and follow the instructions on the lawn fertilizer bag.
grasses. Nitrogen is often the only fenilizer element needed Many commercial lawn fertilizers will stale lhe proper
unless a soil lest specifically shows a deficiency of phospho- spreader setting for various rates of application. If spreader
rus or potassium. Sandy soils or subsoils from which topsoil settings are not on the bag you'll need to calibrate the
has been excavated should be tested to determine needed spreader. Fenilizers in general weigh about a pound perpint.
elements. This is especially important as soil is being pre-
pared for planting. Apply fertilizer only when the grass blades are dry, unless
instructions on the bag state otherwise.

The Utah Cooperative Extension Service, an equal opportunity e!'1l>loyer, provides programs and services to all persons
regardless of race, age, sex, color, religion, national origin or handicap.
Issued In furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914,10 cooperation with the U.S. Department of AgriCUlture, R. Paul Larsen,
Vice President and Director, Cooperative Extension Service, Utah State University.
Travel in two directions-at right angles to each other- fall every 3 to 4 years. This will prepare the lawn for winter
when applying fertilizer. This is particularly true with drop- conditions and allow the phosphorus to penetrate into the
type spreaders. The cyclone or rotary type spreader applies root zone by the next growing season.
the fertilizer more rapidly and uniformly with less streaking.
LAWNS ON SANDY SOILS
IRON
Lawns on very sandy soils may need more frequent fertilizer
Iron deficiency (chlorosis) shows as a distinctive yellowing applications (every 4 weeks) at smallerrates per application.
on grass blades in mid to late summer. Iron is actually The total amount of fertilizer applied will be the same.
abundant in Utah soils but their alkaline nature prevents its Consider the use ofslow release nitrogen fertilizers, such as
absorption by plants. Iron chlorosis is rather quickly and sulfur coated urea or urea formaldehyde, to increase time
easily corrected. Iron may be applied alone or in combina- between applications.
tion with other fertilizers. A simple method to apply iron is
to dissolve two tablespoons ofiron sulfate in one quart ofhot CLIPPING REMOVAL
water. Dilute this with 2'hgallons of cold water and apply
uniformly to 1,000 square feet of lawn with hand sprayer. Grass clippings are a valuable source of nutrients. Research
Do not water for at least 24 hours after applying iron liquid has shown that when clippings were removed, one-third
spray. Permanent rust stains will appear if you spray con- more nitrogen fertilizer was necessary to maintain the same
crete walks or driveways. color and density as in areas where clippings were returned.
Contrary to popular belief, grass clippings do not contribute
GENERAL GUIDELINES to thatch accumulation if the turf is maintained at its recom-
mended cutting height and not more than one-third of the
It is important to fertilize on a regular basis every 4 to 6 leaf surface is removed at one mowing. If clippings leave a
weeks to maintain an attractive lawn. Begin when lawns residue on the lawn you should mow more frequently.
start to green in the spring, mid to late April. Earlier appli-
cations may cause a lawn to become greener faster, but may FERTILIZER AND PESTICIDE
also increase spring disease problems. Summerapplications COMBINATIONS
of nitrogen fertilizers will not burn lawns if you apply them
to dry grass and waterimmediately. Fall applications are im- Fertilizer and pesticide combinatious are readily available.
portant for good winter cold tolerance, extended fall color, Herbicides, insecticides and fungicides are blended with
and fast spring green-up. A complete fertilizer containing fertilizers for easy applications and convenience. Use them
nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied in the wisely and precisely follow manufacturers directions for
maximum benefit.
..... COOPERAnVE EXTENSION SERVICE
!!!I UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY

SOIL TESTING GUIDE

FOR HOME GARDENS
HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET-FS - H5

By Duane Halch, USU Extension Horticulturist

All soils naturally contain some plant nutrients derived from tional cost. Most Utah garden soils supply adequate micro-
decomposition of soil minerals and organic matter. Phos- nutrient I for normal crops although certain crop varieties
phorus P and potassium K added in fertilizers, manures and can become deficient in iron. Select varieties suited forlow-
crop residues generally remain in the soil until used by crops. iron soils and be alert for deficiency symptoms.

Many soils along the Wasatch Front are naturally high in Nutrient supply is only one of many factors affecting plant
phosphorus and potassium. With the regular use ofcomposts growth A soil test will give no information about other
or manures, many gardens will have adequate P and K levels. problems limiting your garden's performance. It will not
Overfertilizing can lead to salt and micronutrient problems. indicate if your irrigation is adequate, if you over water or
under water, if you have poor drainage, poor soil structure,
Garden sites on poor soils or subsoils frequently benefit from weed competition, too much shade, poor varieties or just
phosphorus and potassium.fertilizers. Where nutrients are neglect Soil tests do not deteettoxic chemicals, herbicide
low, plant growth may be limited unless fertilizer is applied residues in the soil, insect populations or disease problems.
to establish a basic fertility level.
HOW TO TAKE A SOIL SAMPLE
A soil test is the best method to indicate whether P or K
fertilizer is needed. It is recommended that home gardeners The results of your soil test are no better than the sample you
have their soil tested every 5 years. send to the lab. The sample must be representative of the
yard or garden being considered. GARDENERS WHO
WHAT A SOIL TEST WILL TELL YOU TRYTO SHORTCUTTHE SAMPLING PROCEDURE
- WILL NOT RECEIVE A RELIABLE DIAGNOSIS.
At the U.S.U. Soil Testing Laboratory, samples are tested for Your sample sentlo the lab should represent a composite of
P and K levels, pH, salt, and lime content. Technicians several sampling sites, with a sampling depth of 0 to 12
estimate soil texture. inches. If you shortcut your sampling, you have wasted your
money and lab time!
Results of your test will tell you if you need to apply
phosphorus and/or potassium fertilizer. Salinity and pH STEPS TO TAKE FOR A SOIL SAMPLE
values indicate whether you have problems with accumu-
lated salt or sodium. A general fertilizer program will be I. With a shovel, make a deep hole in the soil. SAM-
outlined for you, including nitrogen needs for various crops PLING DEPTH SHOULD BE 0-12 INCHES. Do not
under average conditions. just sample the surface.

WHAT A SOIL TEST WILL NOT TELL YOU 2. Tt.row this shovel full of soil aside.

The standard soil test does not check the nitrogen level as it 3. Cu.a '/2 to I inch slice of soil from the side of the hole.
is continually changing and plants usually require a yearly Be sure the slice is fairly even in width and thickness.
application. A standard soil test will not indicate levels of
micronutrients although tests for these are available at addi- 4. Pl&~e the slice in a bucket.

The Utah Cooperative Extension Service, an equal opportunity elT'f'loyer, provldeJ programs and services to all persons
regardless of race, age, sex. color, religion, national origin or handicap.
Issued In furtherance of Cooperalive Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, In cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. R. Paul Larsen,
Vice President and Director, Cooperative Extension Service, Utah State University.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 at about 6 different locations. Soil shipping bags, boxes and test forms are available
This step is important to obtain a representativesample. through any U.S.U Extension Office. FEE FOR THE
STANDARD TEST IS $ 10.00 PER SAMPLE, and should
6. Thoroughly mix the 6 sub-samples. be sent with the soil and test forms.

7. Send about 1pintofthe thoroughly mixed garden soil for Test results and fertilizer recommendations are mailed di-
the test. Obtaining the soil sample will be easier if you rectly to yonr residence. It takes about 10-14 days on the
have a soil probe or bulb planter. average to receive results. If you have questions after
receiving yonr report, call the U.S.U. Extension Office.
8. Supply the information on the test form for better inter-
pretation of results. HOME SOIL TEST KITS ARE OF LITTLE TO NO
VALUE. They are designed for eastern soils and give very
WHERE TO SEND YOUR SOIL TO BE poor accnracy on onr western soil types.
TESTED
Soil samples are sent to the:

SOIL TESTING LABORATORY

UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY
LOGAN, UT 84322
 COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY

ONIONS IN
THE GARDEN
HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET-FS - H7

By Duane Hatch, USU Extension Horticulturist

Onions are one of the most widely grown vegetables. They garden April 1st to May 1st with a 3 to 4 inch spacing
can be a major flavor additive, used raw, or cooked in a between plants. Garden stores also sell green onion trans-
variety of recipes. Chopped onions contain only 65 calories plants.
per cup, but contribute relatively small amounts of essential
nutrients to our diet. Dry sets may be placed in the garden very early-March 15
to April 1st. Because this early planting gives ihem a cold
Onions will grow in many types of soil but prefer it to be light treatment, some may make a seed stalk (bolt) which causes
and well drained. Enriching it with manure or olher organic a poor bulb. Use ihose for green onions. Smaller sets (less
malter will loosen ihe soil and large onions will be easier to than the diameter ofa dime) are less apt to bolt, so segregate
produce. ihe sets by size. Use ihe smaller ones for bulb production and
ihe larger ones for green onions.
GREEN ONIONS
VARIETIES
Green or bunching onions are usually a by-product of bulb
production. Harvesting to thin ihe onion row will usually Onions are very sensitive to day lengih and are divided into
furnish an abundance. Planting onion sets in ihe spring is a long and short day varieties. Many long day varieties will
good way to have green onions earlier ihan from seed. perfonn well in Utah.

Evergreen White Bunching or Welsh Onion (He Shi Ko) Early: Ebenezer sets, Utah Sweet Spanish transplants.
produce green onions only and do nol bulb. They are very Seed: Crystal White Wax (pickling), Walla Walla, Snow
wimer hardy and fonn a clump from which green onions may White, Utah Yellow SweetSpanish,Fiesta, Spartan Sleeper,
be harvested for a prolonged period. Sweet Sandwich. Fiesta and Spartan Sleeper are longer
keeping varieties ihan the Sweet Spanish types. Sweet
FALL BULB ONIONS Sandwich is a long keeper which looses pungency in storage.

Onions may be grown directly from seed, dry sets or green FERTILIZER
plants. Onion seed will genninate in cool soils and may be
planled as early as March lSI if ihe soil can be propcrly Plant onions in soil that has had 2lbs. of 16-16-8 or similar
prepared. Thin tbc stand and usc for grecn onions to lcave 3 fertilizer per 100 sq. fl. added. They rcspond 10 extra
104 incbes bctwecn plants. Multiplc rows or a broadcast nitrogen so add '/2 cup per 10 ft. of row 4 to 5 weeks after
p'lllern may be used as long as you havc tbc 3 to 4 inchcs planting. Repeat at least one more time during the summcr.
bClween final bulbs. Add ihe fertilizer just before an irrigation.

You can grow your own green onion plants indoors. Use a ffiRIGATION
sterilized planting mix with extra venniculite over the seeds.
About February 15 sow ihe seeds thickly and keep at 70°_ Keep an adequate moisture level during the summer because
72° F. As soon as seedlings emerge, place in a sunny onion roots are not deep. Onions do not toleratecompetilion
window or under a f1uorescentlighl. Transplant ihem in the from oiher plants so keep ihe area weed free. A mulch of

The Utah Cooperative Extension Service, an equal opportunity eTT1Jloyer, provides programs and services to all persons
regardless of race, age, sex, color, religion, national origin or handicap.
Issued In furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts ot Maya and June 30, 1914, In cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. R. Paul Larsen,
Vice President and Director. Cooperative Extension Service, Utah State University.
 Harvest when the tops die and the neck no longer is thick. If
straw or lawn clippings will help control weeds and conserve some arc late maturing and have a thick neck, use them first.
moisture. Spread the onions in a warm shady place until the outer skins
are papery and the roots thoroughly dry.
Onion bulbs need not be kept covered as they grow. Onion
roots are very shallow and digging the soil to cover the bulbs Onions store best under dry, well vcntilated conditions.
may result in root damage and smaller bulbs. They should be cool, even close to 32 0 F. The tops may be
braided with a cord for reinforcement if you want to hang
OVERWINTERING ONIONS-BULBS IN them. Otherwise, place them in mesh bags or slatted hexes.
JUNE Do nOt store onions in paper sacks or solid side boxes
because they restrict needed air circulation.
Sow the seed in a well prepared, fertilized soil August 1-5.
The planting time is very critical. In late February weed the PESTS
area carefully and apply '/2 cup of ammonium sulfate or If,
cup of ammonium nitrate per 10 ft. ofrow. Use the fertilizer Maggots: Diazinon as a furrow treatment at planting
again April I-IS. time.
Thrips: Diazinon, malathion or pyrethrins- rote-
Variety selection is very important. Walla Walla Sweet and none combination.
Sweet winter will tolerate Utah winters and produce bulbs. • Pink Root: Plant in non-infested soil. Treat with
Mostsummer varieties will form a seed stalk without bulbing. vapam before planting. Usc pink root
resistant varieties.
HARVESTING AND STORAGE
DISCLAIMER
Breaking the green onion tops will not hasten maturity.
Instead, the rate of food manufactured by the lOpS is slowed. Varieties, trade names, and seed company names have been
The bulb is stored food that comes from the leaves. Final bulb given for clarification and informatiou only. Utah State
size is smaller than when tops mature normally. This practice University Extension Service docs not endorse them, no
encourages neck rot and storage problems. Reducing water docs it intend criticism of similar varieties, products or
or cutting the roots with a shovel late in the season are ways companies not listed.
to hasten bulb maturity.
COOPERAnVE EXTENSION SERVICE
UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY

TOMATOES IN
THE GARDEN
HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET-FS - H8

By Duane Hatch, USU Extension Horticulturist

Tomatoes are the most popular home garden vegetable. Select transplants that are dark green, stocky, have 7-9
Their fruit is tasty and can be used fresh from the garden or leaves and are 6-8 inches tall. Plants that have fruit on them
processed in many ways for later use. They are high in will be stunted and yield poorly.
vitamins, especially C and contain about 100 calories per
pound. Space plants that will be supported by stakes or cages III> to
2 feet apart. Non-supported plants shottld be spaced 2 to 3
DESCRIPTION feet in the row with row spacing of 3 to S feet depending on
variety.
Tomatoes originatedin theAndes mountainsin SouthAmerica
so are definitely a warm season crop. If it were not for Disturb the roots as little as possible and set the pl~ts to the
freezing weather, plants would be perennial. Plant growth depth of the ftrst leaves. Tall leggy plants can have lower
patterns are classified into determinate or indeterminate. leaves removed and all but the upper 4 inches buried reclin-
Determinate plants grow about 12 to 18 inches high and set ing in a 4 mch deep trench.
fruits that ripen over a relatively short time. Indeterminate
vines keep elongating and setting fruit all season. This type GRO~GTRANSPLANTS
is suited for supporting by cages or stakes.
Plant seeds into a sterile seeding mix 6-8 weeks before
PLANTING transplanting time. Cover with glass or clear plastic and
germinate at about 70oP. As soon as seeds germinate, move
You should plant tomatoes in the sunniest part of your to a very light location where temperatures are 6so-68°P.
garden. Don't crowd them so they receive plenty of light. Adequate light is essential to produce a quality plant. Cool
Since they're a warm season crop, unprotected transplants white fluorescent tubes 2 to 3 inchesabove the plants,lighted
should be set in the garden 7-lO days after the last expected for 14-16 hours per day should keep them from getting
killing frost. Hoteaps or plastic covering may allow a week spindly. Aftersecondleaves form, transplant them into cell-
or two earlier planting. Special protection such as a Wall 0' packs or individual containers. Water each week with a II>
Water may permit 4 to 6 weeks earlier planting. strength soluble complete fertilizer such as 20-20-20.

It does little goOd to rush the season too much because most FERTILIZER
varieties do not set fruit when night temperatures are below
aboutS8°P. Glacier, Oregon Spring, Santiam and some other You can grow a tomato crop with less fertilizer than many
"super early" kinds are exceptions. garden vegetables. Too much fertilizer will produce exces-
sivefoliage and delay fruit ripening. Instead ofbroadcasting
You can plant toinato seed directly into the garden 10-14 fertilizer over the entire area, place 3-4 tablespoons of a
days before the last frost date. Seedlings will be sturdier and complete fertilizer such as 16-16-8 or double that amount of
develop early branching. The root system is not set back by S-l()'lO or similar formula in a 6 inch deep hole. Set the
transplanting so harvest will be nearly as early as that from tomato plant about 4 inches to the side of the fertilizer but
transplants set at their normal time. don't let roots contact it.

The Utah Cooperative Extension Service, an equal opportunity e"..,loyer, provides programs and services to all persons
regardless of race, age, sex, color, religion, national origin or handicap.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8and June 3D, 1914, in cooperation with the U.s. Depanment of AgriCUlture. R. Paul Larsen,
Vice President and Director, Cooperative Extension service, Utah State University.
When frrstfruits are golfball size, apply '/4 cup ofammonium INSECT CONTROL
sulfate a foot or so from the plant and water it in well for
continued vine growth and yield. Fleabeetles attacksmall plants. Control with sevin but don't
"dump" dust heavily. Leaves are eaten by tomato horn
IRRIGATION worms. Control by hand picking. White flies may bnild to
ttemendousnumberslate in theseason. ConttolwithThiodan,
Soak the soil thoroughly at 7-10 day intervals once plants are Cygon or insecticidal soap if yield is being reduced.
well established. Light, frequent sprinkling, especially late
in the day will encourage diseases. Mter the soil warms DISEASE CONTROL
(mid-late June) amulch ofgrass clippings, leaves or sawdust
will maintain a more uniform moisture level. Irregular Use resistant varieties that have V, F, N (Verticillium,
watering or overwatering (especially on heavy soils) can Fusarium, nematode) designated in their name. Improve
cause blossom-end rot, a leathery, dark colored spot that can drainage in heavy soils or use raised beds. Let soil dry
occupy the bottom II' of the fruit. between waterings and don't sprinkle late in the day. If you
use tobacco, don't handle plants unless you've washed
CULTIVATION hands thoroughly with soap. Control foliar blights with
Daconil.
Cultivate very shallow and only to control weeds or break
soil crust for water penetration. The mulch described above HARVEST
removes most need for soil slining.
Pick when fully colored but frrm, especially for canning.
SUPPORT They will ripen with high quality if picked as frrst color
shows. At the end of season, gather any that have a tinge of
pink. Store 1-2 layers deep in a box and keep at 50°-60°F.
Individual wrapping is not necessary.

VARIETIES
Staking requires more work but All determinate, except those marked (I):
fruit is not in contact with the
soil and is easier to harvest. • Earliest: Sub Arctic Maxi, Pixie Hybrid, Glacier(I),
Select the main stem and Oregon Spring.
remove side shoots where they
arise at leaf joints. As it gets • Cherry Types: Presto, Toy Boy Hybrid, Sweet 100
taller, loosely tie the stem to an Hybrid(I), Sweet Million Hybrid(I).
upright stake 4-6 feet tall.
Medium Size Fruits: Early Girl Hybrid(I), Early Cas-
Leave one main stemfor each cade Hybrid(I).
plant, removing the shoots
(arrows) to eliminate extra Large Fruit: Moreton Hybrid(I), DX52-12, Celebrity
side branches. Hybrid, Jet Star Hybrid, Red King Hybrid, Red Ex-
pressel) Hybrid, Pole King Hybrid(I).

• High Solid: Square Paste, Royal Chico, Roma VF.

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
UTAH STATE UNIVERSITY

COMPOSTING
HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET-FS • H10

By Jerry L. Goodspeed & lArry A. Sagers, Extension Horticulturists, USU

In the growing season 30% or more of the landftll waste is Steps for a successful compost pile:
organic yard refuse. This wastes land, tax dollars, and natural
resources. Composting these products at home eases landf111 I. SITE SELECTION
problems. Composted materials are excellent soil amend-
a) At least 6 hours of sunlight a day.
ments for increasing the tilth, workability, fertility, water b) A site !hat does not detract from !he landscape.
holding capacity, and drainage of existing soils. c) Convenient for adding materials and removing
compost.
Composting is a natural process by which organic material is d) Available water.
decomposed into humus, a soil like substance. Humus im-
proves the water holding capacity, drainage, workability, and
fertility of existing soils. Decomposition is done by microor-
n. CONTAINER
ganisms, earthworms, small insects, and other soil inhabiting Many containers are suitable provided !hey are accessible,
organisms. These organisms decompose the organic matter resist decay, and allow air flow. Three containers, next to
as their food source. The process requires carbon, nitrogen, each o!her, permits for the pile to be turned to speed !he
water, oxygen, and heat. process. Ideas for containers are listed:

a) Poles wi!h chicken wire.

Carbon is the principle component of all organic matter. A
material must have a proper ratio of carbon to nitrogen,
termed C:N ratio, to compost properly. The most efficient
ratio for composting is 15-30 parts carbon for every I part
nitrogen. If the ratio is too high or too low the composting
process is slowed.

Oxygen (air) is also necessary. If oxygen is eliminated, the

materials decompose anaerobically (without oxygen). This b) Wooden bins.
decay process is slow and causes foul odors. Adequate
oxygen, supplied by mixing the compost, eliminates !he
odors. The correct ratio of carbon, nitrogen, water, and
oxygen produces heat which speeds the process and kills
most weeds, seeds and harmful pathogens. Composting,
done correctly, is simple, odorless, and produces a valuable,
natural soil amendment.

The Utah Cooperative Extension ServIce, an equal opportunity errt>loyer, provides programs and services to all persons
regardless of race, age, sex, color, religion, natIonal origin or handicap.
Issued In furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30. 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. R. Paul larsen,
Vice President and Director, CooperatIve Extension Service, Utah State University.
 d) Open sided cinder blocks bin (without mortar). c) Apply a I" layer of soil every 8 to 14 inches of
organic waste to increase microbial activity.

d) Apply nitrogen fertilizer every I to 2 feet to de-

crease the C:N ratio. Some common materials and
their CoN ratio are listed:

Material C:NRatio
Garden refuse 20-35:1
Kitchen scraps 20-35: I
1) No bin, true compost pile.
Manure 20-50:1
Sawdust 200-500:1
Grass clippings 15-30: I
Straw 50-ISO: 1
Leaves 70-120:1

1) Mow lawn every 5 to 7 days and don't bag clip-

pings. Grass clippings break down quickly and do
not add to the thatch layer.

g) Gather leaves in the fall and till into garden and

III. SELECT THE PROPER MATERIALS: flower beds. By spring they decompose and add
more humus to the soil.
Acceptable Not accgptable
Grass clippings Meats
Leaves & Weeds Bones V. TROUBLE SHOOTING:
Manures Large branches
Coffee grounds Dairy products Strong odor
Wood chips & Sawdust Synthetic products Insufficient oxygen. Turn pile for increased air
Bark, stems, stalks Plastics circulation. Materials may be too wet to allow for
Garden and canning waste good oxygen penetration. Add dry materials.
Fruits and vegetables
Pile damp, but won't heat
Insufficient nitrogen. Add fertilizer or grass clip-
IV. MAKING THE PILE WORK: pings. This decreases the C:N ration, and increases
decomposition.
A compost pile is not just rotting garbage. Successful com-
OR
post piles are structured as follows:
Materials too wet. Allow pile to dry or add addi-
tional dry materials.

SolI Dry and not composting

Fertilizer Insufficient water. Form pile so centeds the lowest
Plant Waste point. This prevents runoff.
SolI
Fertilizer Ammonia smell
Plant Waste
Too much nitrogen. Add sawdust or other high
Clippings
carbon materials and turn pile.
HELPFUL HINTS:

a) Turn pile every 2 t04 weeks and keep pile moist to SUMMARY
speed composting, allow air circulation and elimi-
nate unpleasant odors. Compost is an excellent, inexpensive way to increase the
productivity and workability of soil. It reduces and recylces
b) Build pile 3 to 5 feet taIl, with an equal circumfer- yard waste and produces an excellent soil admendment.
ence. Small piles don't heat enough and large piles Help the garden, the environment, and the pocketbook by
don't receive enough air in the middle for good composting lawn and garden waste.
composting.