CHAPTER

H
Twin
This horizontal twin, in a way, suggests a
miniature Tangye. It is mostly of brass
because of the soldering.
Starting with the FRAME, make two side
pieces about 1/16” oversize on all edges.
Mill the top edges and the 7/8” ends true
and square. Apply layout dye to one piece
and lay out the rest of the Frame and the 2-
56 screw at X and another at Y. Clamp the the 3/32” jig hole. Holding the jig edge Z end of the 3/32” pin and the pivot hole. Cut
two pieces together with top and end in against the 1/8” Locating Pin, drill the #57 about 1/32” or less piece of 1/16” low-
good alignment. Drill through at X and Y starter hole in the Frame. Turn the jig over temperature silver solder and lay it up
with a #50 drill. Tap one Frame 2-56. to make the other port hole. against the Shaft and apply heat with a
Enlarge the holes in the other Frame and Do the same on the opposite side of the propane torch. Heat the entire Cylinder until
countersink for the 2-56 x 1/4” flat head Frame. Note - on the upper hole, drill the solder melts and flows down around the
screws. Fasten the two pieces together and halfway from each side. Do not drill all the shaft. Using too much solder will leave a
mill the rest of the outline squarely to the way through from one side. The exhaust mound that will prevent the Cylinder from
layout lines. Layout, drill and ream for the holes are 5/16” deep from each side. Apply seating. The solder will not stick to the
1/4” O.D. bushings and for the 3/32” pivot layout dye to the port end of the assembly aluminum.
holes. Lay out, drill and tap four 2-56 holes and to the bottom of the port area. Pick up For the PISTON and ROD, chuck a
for the Foot. Separate the two pieces. Drill and transfer the upper hole centerline to the piece of 5/16” rod in the 3-jaw with about 1-
out the tapped holes at X in the one Frame end and then locate the 3/16” steam 5/8” projecting. Center drill for the tailstock
and countersink for 2-56 flat head screws. connection; drill and tap. Transfer the lower center. Start the cuts far enough in that the
Note - make right hand and left hand hole center-line to the bottom of the block. end with center can be cut away later. Use
Frames when countersinking. Drill out the Locate and drill two 1/16” exhaust holes. the Cylinder as a gauge for a close fit. Keep
holes at Y to about 1/4”. A clean drilled Make two CYLINDERS from clean and each Piston with its own Cylinder. Make
hole looks better than an unused bolt hole. accurate 3/8” x 3/8” x 13/16” brass blocks. parting cuts to length. Mill the crank end to
Make the PORT BLOCK and the Lay out the center of the 1/4” bore offset as 9/64” and make the 1/16” pin hole. Insert a
FOOT of brass as shown. This calls for shown and prick punch. Do the same for the Piston into its own Cylinder. Place the drill
squareness and accuracy to preserve the 3/32” Pivot Shaft. Chuck in the 4-jaw and jig over the 3/32” pivot and run a close-
Shaft alignment at assembly. Coat the ends center for the 1/4” bore, using a center test fitting 1/16” pin through the jig and the eye
of the port block and the bottoms of the side indicator. Square up the bottom with a in the Rod. Drill the #57 port hole in the
Frames with a light coat of solder. Coat the boring bar. On the last boring, cut before Cylinder.
side Frames at the port block area and the reaming, make an undercut at the bottom for Make the SHAFT and CRANK DISKS
Foot piece where it meets the side Frames reamer runout. Do not leave a shoulder for as shown. Set the 1/16” crank pins with
with soldering flux. Assemble with 2-56 the Piston to strike. Chuck again, this time Loctite.
screws and insert close-fitting pins across for the pivot valve face. Add a small bit of The SPRINGS on this model are about
through the 3/32” and 1/4’ holes to help metal under the jaw at the bore-end of the the dimensions shown. They came from the
keep the Shaft alignment. Apply heat at Cylinder. Check for square-ness in the odds-and-ends drawer and seem just right
each joint and tighten the screws when the chuck. Face, undercut and drill for the 3/32” for this job.
solder melts. If you have the right amount of pivot pin. The FLYWHEEL is simply 1-1/4” O.D.
solder, a neat tiny fillet will be formed in the Make the two brass PIVOT PINS 17/32” x 5/16” wide fitted with a set-screw. The
corners. long. Drill the cross holes for the spring pressure of the screw is transmitted to the
Make the DRILL JIG and LOCATING retaining pin. Make a close free-fitting Shaft by a loose pin in the tap drill hole.
PIN of steel. Insert the Locating Pin. Insert aluminum pin to enter the 1/4” bore of the This is a pretty well balanced engine and it
a 3/32” x 1-1/8’ rod in the pivot holes and Cylinder. Apply a thin coat of flux to the runs fine on as little as 5 to 10 pounds of air.

31
32