preparation process for weaving
The master weaver will purchase all the required raw materials from yarn vendors in
Karnataka who source the silk. Cotton yarn is often pre-dyed and comes from regions
like Coimbatore in southern India and Jaipur. Cotton yarn traders frequently have unique
colours dyed to meet the needs of their customers. The minimum amount required for
such dyeing is almost 25 kgs or 10 hanks.
The dyeing process: Chanderi is generally used for silk yarn and is done by local dyers
who have been doing it for a long time. Depending on the colour range, this silk yarn
dying procedure might take anywhere from 45 to 60 minutes. Cotton and silk both need
to be dyed before they can be woven. They are then immersed in a mix of warm water,
detergent, and soda after being washed in plain water. Finally, the threads are washed
again and strung to dry on bamboo poles. They are returned to the weavers for additional
processing once they have dried.
After the yarn has been dyed, it will be loosened on the reels. This is a step before the
warp and weft are prepared.
Warping: The yarn is wound on pines with the use of a charkha for the weft, this is
usually done by the weavers' family members. The warpers perform a specialised
procedure known as warping. The warp threads are wound on bobbins that are organised
over a reel, which is made of wood. The yarns from these reels are twisted around a
vertical drum using a reed. The warp travelling through the reed and heads is the next
operation. With a skillful twist of the hand, the warp yarns are next joined to the old warp
strands. This procedure takes 3 to 4 days to complete.
The design of the border and the pallav: The weaver will set up the design of the border
and the pallav before the actual weaving starts. The ends of the design are tied to a
vertical harness called jala. This process takes between 3 to 4 days based on the
complexity of the design. The figured effects are produced with the help of an extra weft
and the number of ’tillis’
Weaving: one or two highly skilled weavers from the weaving family weave the fabric.
Traditional pit looms with throw shuttles are the majority of the looms in use. The
Chanderi cloth is cut off the loom to be packed and sold and does not require any post-
loom processing.
Raw materials of chanderi saree
Un-degummed mulberry silk yarn (16/18 to 20/22 denier count used in warp)
Cotton yarn (100s-120s or 2/100s to 2/120s used in the weft)
Zari (Gold & silver Zari are used for extra warp designs in border and extra weft designs in pallu
and body)
Types of Chanderi Saree
Chanderi cotton
Chanderi silk cotton
Pure Chanderi silk
How to realise genuine chanderi saree
•Due to the un-degummed silk twist, the texture surface is not particularly sensitive in
any manner.
•The butis are woven entirely by hand on looms and are frequently dusted with gold,
silver, or copper dust.
•An original Chanderi saree is distinguished from counterfeits by its glossy texture and
lustre.
Charecteristics
Chanderi is a shimmering cotton fabric with a sheer texture and glossy transparency that
is known for being light and airy.
Saris woven from chanderi are ideal for summer.
The majority of the motifs utilised in chanderi weaving are inspired by nature (earth and
sky). Swans (hamsa), gold coins (asharfi), trees, fruits, flowers, and heavenly bodies are
among them. Chanderi is primarily involved in the production of three types of fabrics.
Pure silk where the warp and weft is woven in pure silk.
Cotton 100s or 120s for the warp and weft. The Chanderi muslins are notable for their
smoothness and softness, which was traditionally achieved by scaling them with koli, a
native wild onion.
It has a fine texture, is lightweight, and has a sumptuous feel about it.
These motifs on Chanderi are mostly hand-woven using handloom with the help of
special needles.
Handwoven Chanderi sari
Struggles of weavers
. • The chanderi artisans do not have access to adequate infrastructure to carry out their
work. They couldn't dry the dyed textiles in the open air during the rainy season. The
majority of the weavers are from low-income village families. They do all of their work,
such as dyeing and weaving, from various locations. If they can get an infrastructure that
includes all of these components under one roof, it will be really beneficial to them.
They are unaware of online retailing platforms or E-Commerce, which might expand the
reach of their products. The true craftspeople behind the chanderi saree suffer from a lack
of understanding regarding technology and innovation as a result of this. They are paid a
pittance for their labour, about a quarter of what they are worth. They are also not able to
access credit from banks and financial institutions.
Handloom textiles and crafts play an important role in our country's cultural history, with
weaving providing a living for millions of people. The major hurdles of COVID-19 has
affected handloom sector with other sectors in the economy. Their traditional and modern
markets have been completely shut down. As a result, artisanal livelihoods were abruptly
disrupted.
The handicrafts sector has been devastated by the declining economy, reduced
expenditure, the pandemic, and consequent lockdown.
A large amount of unsold inventory has accumulated. There hasn't been a single sale,
whether through exhibitions or orders.
They have no capital to reinvest. Most artisans are now looking for agricultural work or
to migrate again.
There is a need for capital support in the form of grants or loans with low interest rates to
revive production. There is an urgent need of handholding support for online marketing,
design and cataloguing. More than ever, artisans need health insurance and social security
now.
• The majority of the artisans have been unemployed since the COVID-19 lockdown.
Only 15 of the 40 looms are in use. Stocks have risen in value, and they are suffering a
financial crunch.
Increased living expenses Non receipt of announced cash benefits, reduced work
days.
They are unable to purchase raw material and are taking only small orders that can be
managed. They designed several campaigns to clear the existing stock and are also
making masks
Cash flow has stopped, with buyers unable to make payments and no sales happening at
all.
Retail events through which artisans get cash sales is not happening amid lockdown.
Due to corona and lockdown; chanderi artisans losing their regular markets
Small scale artisans and producer groups don’t have the monetory cushioning to sustain
through such a crisis nor would they get credit supplies from raw material suppliers.
Handloom and its parts
A loom is the tool used to weave cloth and tapestries. The loom is for holding the warp threads
under tension to support the interweaving of the weft threads. Hand looms come in a variety of
shapes and sizes, including the simple frame loom, pit loom, free-standing loom, and pegged
loom. Traditional pit looms are most typically used by chanderi weavers for weaving.
The warp beam, heddles, harnesses, shuttle, reed, and takeup roll are the main components of the
loom. Shedding, plucking, battening, and taking-up processes are significant yarn processing
activities on the loom.
1. Wood frame
2. Seat for weaver
3. Warp beam- let off
4. Warp threads
5. Back beam or platen
6. Rods – used to make a shed
7. Heddle frame - heald frame - harness
8. Heddle- heald - the eye
9. Shuttle with weft yarn
10. Shed
11. Completed fabric
12. Breast beam
13. Batten with reed comb
14. Batten adjustment
15. Lathe
16. Treadles
17. Cloth roll- takeup
