Bag Making & Sewing

Tips & Tutorials

With special thanks to the

Creative Bag Making
Facebook Group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/creativebagmaking/

Please feel free to share this e-book with everyone!

 With Thanks
is a familiar name within the group.
Almost since our inception (November 2016), David has been providing our group with generous dis-
counts, helpful videos, answering untold questions about the rivet press and offering valuable prize do-
nations to our members through fun contests, etc.

GoldStarTool.com is online division of Golden Cutting & Sewing Supplies, the nation’s #1 indepen-
dent web retailer of fashion and sewing supplies. From their headquarters and showroom in the fashion
capital of Los Angeles, they are dedicated to bringing to you all the needs of the garment, fashion and
textile industries under one roof.

For the month of March, with our focus being on Sewing Tutorials, Tips & Tricks, David stepped for-
ward to offer yet another prize for the Tutorial part of the contest. What would the prize be I won-
dered? He has so many wonderful items in his store, anything would be fine in my eyes. Maybe a
press? Or some die sets? No, David says “I will donate a portable industrial walking foot sewing ma-
chine!” I just about fell off my seat! And not just the sewing machine, but also a heavy duty carrying
case, accessories and free shipping!

But David’s generosity does not end in our group. He actively supports many charities, donating
goods and services to them as well.

If you are not a Goldstar Tool VIP Member yet, head on over to their website and follow the instruc-
tions. You’ll get an 8% discount just for signing up. There are also special discounts for students and
military personnel. As always, 99 cents shipping on ANY order.

David Akhamzadeh, President

Golden Cutting & Sewing Supplies
921 E. 8th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90021
Email: [email protected]

Tel: 213-623-8805
Toll Free: 800-868-4419

Website: https://goldstartool.com/
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 Straight Turning Hole

Easy peast straight turning hole.

You are going to sew your lining as usual,
the only difference is that at the beginning
and the end of your turning hole,
you are going to sew across the seam allowance.
Easy and very effective!
The Retreat Bag :- Emmaline bags 8 ½” x5”x4” or 11”x6 ½”x7 ¼”
Pieces Exterior Lining Interfacing SF101 or Fusible Fleece
fabric fabric 911FF TP971F
Body Small Zipper (2) 13 ½ x 9 (2) 13 ½ x (4) 13 x 8 ½ for exterior (2) 12 ½ x 8 for
16” 9 & lining exterior
Internal Wire frames
Style A
Body large Zipper (2) 18 ½ x (2) 18 ½ x (4) 18 x 11 ½ for (2) 17 ½ x 11 for
22” 12 12 exterior & lining exterior
Internal Wire frames
Style B
Pockets (2) 8 x 8 (2) 7 ½ x 7 ½
Zipper Ends (2) 2 x 3
Dividers 9 ½ x 12 9½x6
¼” seam allowance First fuse interfacing Then fuse fleece

Teeny Tiny Zipper Pouch :- So Sew Easy

Cut 2 of each 5x3.5
• Outer fabric (fuse with interfacing)
• Lining fabric
2 end tabs 2.5x2.5 and 6” zipper
¼” seam allowance

Gemini Pouch :- ChrisW Designs (11" X 7 1/2" X 1/2”)

Pieces Patterned Plain Lining Interfacing SF101 Fusible Fleece
fabric fabric fabric or 911FF TP971F
Front cut (1) 11 7/8 x 4 (1) 11 7/8 (2) 11 7/8 x (2) 11 7/8 x 4 ¼ (2) 11 x 3 ½
on fold ¼ x4¼ 7 3/8
Back cut on (1) 11 7/8 (1) 11 7/8 x 8 (1) 11 x 7
fold x8
(2) 11 7/8 x 7 3/8
Zipper Tabs (4) 1 3/8 x 1 (4) 1 3/8 x
1
(2) 11” zipper, double sided tape
3/8” seam allowance
 The Birthing of a Bag
by Angela Trenholm of BellaVieBags.com and the WillingWorker.net

It is customary to “birth” or “turn right side out” a bag via an internal pocket, or a seam that is slip
stitched closed at the last, but I'm added a twist that will make this process easier and no hand stitching.

First, always have an internal zippered pocket on the outside wall of the bag. The bigger the bag, the
bigger this pocket should be. 8-9” seems to be a good size for most small to medium bags, and even
some larger ones depending on the stiffness of the bag. The bigger the pocket, the easier it will be to
finish the bag. Install the pocket as normal, but do not close the bottom seam except the back stitch at
the opening beginning and end.

Secondly, when sewing up the lining, don't sew the bottom on or sew only half of it, or if the bag
doesn't have a separate bottom, leave a bottom seam open as much as possible, back stitching at each
end of the opening.

The following pictures feature The Clover bag by Blue Cala (January 2017 Bag of the Month).

This first picture shows the open lining (without bottom) seamed and top stitched to the top of the bag.

Here's the lining pulled through the pocket.

 The Birthing of a Bag – Page 2-2

Close the bag bottom seam as necessary, whether by attaching the bottom or sealing a seam. This
pictures shows the bottom being attached.

Here is the sealed bottom of the bag, which will now be pushed back through the bottom of the pocket.

Now seal the bottom of the zippered pocket, push the pocket lining into itself, and your bag is done!

by Angela Trenholm of the http://willingworker.net/sewing and Bella Vie Bags (website under
construction)
Belinda Cook

Braided Handles Tutorial

If you love the look of a braided handle but hate the hassle of trying to sew it and
turn it here is a simple solution.

Tutorial

Cut 3 strips of fabric 2 inch by 24 inch for each strap.

Cut 3 strips of cording (I use synthetic clothesline from the dollar store.) 20 inches.

Interface fabric strips and fold down the middle and fold each end toward the
middle line. Or you can use double fold bias tape.

Place clothesline in center and fold over ends and stitch along open edge.

Attach the three separate lines together and attach to hook and sew together.
Belinda Cook

Begin braiding the three strands together until you reach the end attach to another
hook with by sewing ends together.

There you have your strap. Only one more to go and you are finished.

Hope this helps. Have a great sewing day.

 Pocket / Card Slot Tutorial

This tutorial uses the card slot portion of the Swoon Pearl Wallet Clutch. The pattern can be
purchased at swoonpatterns.com

In the photo above I used the complete card slot panel which holds 8 cards. This made the pockets almost too
deep so for this tutorial I eliminated one pleat in the panel which makes it much shorter but still gives me 6
slots. I did this by cutting the pan
panel
el 6.75" shorter and only making 3 pleats.

Start by cutting and interfacing the card slot panel of the Pearl Wallet pattern. I used SF101 to interface all of my pieces
for this project. Then continue to step #3 to assemble the slots. Follow the directions up until stitching the center of the
slots. Because we do not cut the panel in half you only need to put one line of stitching down the middle of the panel.
 Completed slot panel.

Now the side pieces need to be added. I use a 1/2" seam allowance to add these pieces so that will have to be figured in
also.

First measure the width of the bag lining panel you will be putting the pocket on.

This will help determine how wide to cut the side pockets. I find that about 4-1/2" wide is good for my phone and 1-1/2"
is good for a pen. 1/2" has to be added to each side for seam allowance. The height is determined by the height of the
slot panel.

So, we need to measure the height of the slot panel.

This panel is 6-3/4" high so I cut one side panel at 5-1/2" x 6-3/4" for a phone pocket and the other I cut 2-1/2" x 6-3/4"
for a pen pocket. I also cut one each of SF101 interfacing.

Fuse the SF101 to the wrong side of the side panels.

With right sides together lay the side panel on top of the slot panel matching the long side.
 Pin or clip together and sew a 1/2" seam down the side.

Press open.

Repeat these steps for the pen panel on the other side of the slots.
 Both side panels attached and pressed.

Now measure the height and width of this panel.

Cut one each of fabric and SF101 this size.

 Fuse SF101 to the wrong side of the fabric.

Layer the 2 pieces right sides together.

Pin or clip together. Mark a 5" space at the bottom to leave open for turning. Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance around
the panel being sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.
Trim the corners and then turn thru the opening at the bottom. Gently push out the corners.

Turn the bottom raw edges in 1/2" and press the whole panel.

Topstitch approximately 1/8" from the edge along the top of the panel.
 The panel is now complete and ready to sew on to the lining.

1/2" to 3/4"

From the bottom edge of the lining panel measure up 1/2" to 3/4" ABOVE the seam allowance and center the panel so it
is straight. Pin in place. Starting at a top corner stitch with a 1/8" seam down the edge, across the bottom, closing the
turning opening, and up the other side. Again, backstitch several times at the beginning and end.

To divide the pocket start at the bottom and topstitch 1/8" in along the side panel seam backstitching at the top.

You are Done !

Tutorial Created by Maria Peeters Schuelke

Please message me on Facebook with any questions.

 Using Plastic Cutting Mats to

Expedite Your Bag Making Efforts & More

Even if your budget allows for those nice acrylic templates that are currently the
rage for many of our favorite patterns, they too have their limitations if you are
interested in doing production cut runs of a particular pattern. Similarly, not all of
the acrylic templates are made for fussy cutting, but since they are clear, it
certainly makes it easier than trying to eyeball the same with a paper pattern
piece.
Let’s put budget factors aside and talk about the benefits of using the plastic
cutting mats to make all kinds of different templates for different needs.
In the following example, I am showing you how I use the cutting mats to quickly
cut out the base piece in the Clematis clutch pattern from Blue Calla (it’s a great
pattern and is free; https://bluecallapatterns.com/collections/free-
patterns/products/new-the-clematis-wristlet-free-pdf-sewing-pattern)
These pieces do not need to be 100% exact as in some patterns, so I am
comfortable with my clipping and cutting method (no pins, no tracing), though I
strive to be as accurate as possible. If my templates have straight edges, I will
place a ruler on top and cut that length with a rotary cutter (be careful to not cut
off slivers of your plastic template when you do this).
You will see in the photo below I have three bottoms pieces lined up; pretty close,
too. Micro-suede is not cheap! Notice how I just clip in place on the fold. I don’t
cut the “pleats” until after I have fused interfacing; it’s just my way.

Next, with my super sharp scissors, I make the first cut on the last piece on the
right. I hold the template in place with my hand while making nice long cuts.
These are small pieces, so it is only 2-3 cuts. As soon as I have a clean edge on the
first cut, I clip that side in place to keep it from moving. Then I complete the cut on
the other side and my first piece is cut out.
The photo below shows how I repeat this step for each piece, going right to left.
And done! Three pieces cut out in matter of minutes. I could have cut two up
since the fabric is pretty thin and there is no directional print. I created templates
for all of the pieces that make up Clematis so I’m raring to go! Before long I’ll have
three gorgeous Clematis wristlets to gift or sell.
But you are not limited to pattern pieces when you want to expedite a certain
sewing process.
In the photo below, I’ve made the base cut-out piece (2” x 1-3/4”) into a template.
I don’t trust my rotary skills on a bag that is nearly done! I can quickly cut the little
box out using this template piece. This is the Hapai Tote Bag pattern:
https://www.sewdakine.com/collections/pdf-patterns/products/hapai-tote-pdf

I also use the plastic mats to create marking guide templates. Below is the piece I
use to mark the sides of the NCW (https://emmalinebags.com/products/the-
necessary-clutch-wallet-pdf) before you sew up those sides. I like to mark at the
very end of the sewing process so this little template is perfect; I just put an
erasable pencil mark on either side of the template then repeat for the other side.
Last, if you have a pattern that would benefit from a fussy cut panel, plastic cutting
mats are your friend!
I had this gorgeous Alexander Henry Frida Kahlo print that I’d been hoarding for
just the right bag! Along came the lovely Amelie Shoulder Bag pattern
(https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/patterns/amelie-the-shoulder-bag/479806) and
I just knew it was perfect. But I also knew I’d need to fussy cut that back panel! I
quickly took the pattern piece and traced to plastic; then flipped to create a mirror
image to make one big (see through) piece. Voila – see next page!
Credits: I certainly can’t and won’t take credit for the idea of using plastic cutting
boards to make pattern templates.
I hope I have inspired you to think of different ways to use these inexpensive
cutting mats in your next sewing project.
About Me:
www.sewkelley.com
www.facebook.com/sewkelley
P.S. Don’t toss those little plastic scraps that accumulate; they work great for a
base behind a twist lock or feet.
How to pick your fabrics : Kate Maryon [email protected]

This is a challenging topic for a lot of people. Its all about taste. But, there are some esthetic principles
to keep in mind. Chunky, dainties and fillers… kind of like making a bouquet or planting a garden.

I like to pick out my main fabric. The fabric that inspires me and then from that I pick out elements to
pull it all together. The main fabric was the big floral motif. From there I picked out the grey accents for
repetition. The grey panels and then an even darker charcoal cork to make the main panel pop.

Plus the white dots in the grey panels repeat the white dots in the grey flowers of the main panel. I
decided on the antique brass to add warmth rather the then nickel. Then instead of using cork to cover
the hardware attachments I decided to fussy cut a key element of the main fabric and use it as a unique
creative element.
The same pattern with a different fabric and choice of hardware gives a whole new feeling to your bags.

Boheme 2 I used a Butterfly wing fabric and then echoed the line segments of the butterfly wings in the
lines of the hardware.

Just about any colour cork would work for this bag but the darker gun metal inserts in the hardware, I
felt echoed the lines in the wings and then for repetition I used the darker cork.

For the lining, I chose something that reflected spring and would be a colourful surprise but all of this is
about personal taste and styles. Have fun developing yours.
 Cork Flower

Cork flowers are a great way to use up scraps of pretty cork pieces and add interesting details
to projects. This is an overview but you can use any kind of shape and number of petals.

Start by making your petal pattern piece and

selecting your cork.

Cut out your petals.

Use a heavy duty thread like buttonhole twist and thread
your needle so you have a double strand to thread your
petals. I went up and down through each petal a couple
times to get gathers.

Tie your thread ends together, pulling them tight to

gather the petals and give them the desired shape you
want.

Adding a bead at the center of your cork flower is a nice

finishing touch.
Storing your cork

The easiest way I know to store Cork up off the floor and save space yet have it visible and accessible.

Heres what mine looks like..

To make this you will need some form of hook, or hanger. I chose these ornate hangers with two hooks.

You will need a strong rope and wooden rods which came precut from my hardware store.

I know that most my cork comes 50 something inches so I cut my rods 60 inches but look at your space
and decide what works for you. I then cut the rope the length of the wall and then every eight inches I
made a knot then slipped the rods into the loops..
Creating your own “POL” or wipe able fabrics

Kate Maryon aka: [email protected]

Im sure as bagginers you have at some point wanted a fabric that was easier to wipe clean etc for some
of your bags. I know I have been and recently discovered “Pol” a water proof fabric which seems to be
used a lot for small childrens diapers or swimwear etc… But unless you want child themed or solid
colours you are very limited. I found the following product which also comes in a gloss finish as well as
the matt. Unfortunately it is only 15 inches wide but perhaps in the long run that is more economical.

To create your fabrics you will need to choose your fabric and buy a box of either matt or gloss finished
iron on vinyl which comes in rolls of 15” x 2’

Next you will take out the roll and start to unpeel the covering paper just enough to stick the vinyl onto
the fabric.. I found that if I kept vinyl on the left of the fabric and then pulled the roll to the left as it
unpeeled from the vinyl that I was able to get it onto the fabric very easily without bubbles or creases.
Creating your own POL

Pg 2

After smoothing the vinyl onto the fabric and removing the paper from it. DO NOT throw that paper
away… you will now take it an lay it onto the vinyl again and with an dry iron on a medium heat you will
iron over the paper being careful to never touch the hot iron to the vinyl.

You can see that the vinyl simply gives you a wipe able fabric that’s easier to keep clean or water proof
for wet clothing or damp clothes such as for gym bags and diaper bags or perhaps for purses depending
on your buyers personal taste.

My fingers are on the part of the fabric that has the vinyl on it. I love the feeling it gives and I think I shall
be using this a lot more in the future.
 Upcycle: Personalize & Embellish Your Bags!
I am a thrift store junkie! I like finding all sorts of unique items to use on my bags. Lately, I am obsessed
with belts, scarves, clothing, and jewelry. I’ve been having a lot of fun upcycling to use them as straps,
fabric, or just plain ole fun embellishments on my bags.

SCARVES
Scarves can add so much character to your bags and can serve multiple purposes.

Pictured below is my Swoon Ethel bag. I tied the scarf around each handle and wrapped around the bag
as I went. What a wonderful accent this scarf gives to Ethel!

Did you know that you can quickly convert a scarf into a tote? You will need a square scarf or fold a
rectangular one to create a square. Simply lay out the scarf flat. Tie a knot in each corner. I like to
wrap it around my hand and knot it so that each one is approx. the same size. Be sure to leave an even
amount of scarf hanging off the end of each knot. Then tie two adjacent corners together at the very
tip to form your bag handles. Repeat for the other two corners. Viola! You have yourself a tote!

You can even ‘wrap’ your bag with a scarf to give it a totally new look! You will need a large square scarf
or fold a rectangular one in half to create a square. Simply lay the square scarf flat on the floor. Place
the bag on the middle of the scarf. Next, you will lift up each corner of the scarf and tie to the

1
corresponding strap or loop. Here’s a before and two after pictures of my Emkie Designs –
Midsummer’s Night Traveler showing off various wraps.

TIPS: Make your own waterproof scarf using ripstop. Always keep a scarf in your bag. Not only could
it serve as an extra bag, (to tote home all those thrift store finds!!!), but it could also be used as a head
scarf on a windy day, a bag wrap on a raining day, or a shoulder scarf to keep you warm. A scarf could
also be used as a bathing suit cover-up or even a summer dress!

JEWELRY
Clip earrings, brooch pins, and necklaces just to name a few! The seahorse brooch goes perfectly with
my Blue Calla Boronia seahorse bag!!! Amazingly, the seahorse pin is the same size as the seahorse
print on my fabric! In the third picture below, I slipped the bird necklace into the loops under the bag
flap; or you could permanently affix. It is quiet stunning! The gorgeous palm tree clip earrings would
make unique button closures. The turquoise heart pendant will soon become a bag charm.

2
 CLOTHES
Thrift stores are an excellent place to find unique clothes that can be used as ‘fabric’ for bags! Check
out these unique ‘fabrics’! I’m can’t wait to transform them!!! From left to right: a very large blouse
with zebra shoes, three faux fur vests, and a jacket that is calling for Swoon India…..SOON!

I used the ‘fabric’ from this flashy blouse to make these bags and I still have plenty of ‘fabric’ left over
for more!!!! Pictured from left to right: Cloudsplitter - Itsi Bag, Uniquely Michelle – Just the Ticket
Luggage Tag, and Blue Calla – Freesia.

The ‘fabric’ from this skirt was used in my Blue Calla - Oleander bag. And again, I still have plenty of
‘fabric’ left over.

3
 BELTS
Here are a few of the belts I recently acquired. I harvested 24 rectangle rings from the last belt in the
first picture!

This bag has loops under the flap making it a prime candidate for this type of upcycling. In fact, I have
started added these loops on bags that I make, (in addition to what the pattern calls for), to make them
more versatile for upcycling!

Here is another example of how you can upcycle a belt to use as a strap with minimal effort. This is my
Emmaline Bags – Necessary Clutch Wallet. You would need to make the loops under the flap extra wide
to accommodate larger belts.

4
Here are some more belts and my Swoon Bonnie before and after pictures. I wrapped the handles using
the fabric belt below (first belt pictured). That certainly gave her some sass!

I used the pink belt on my Swoon Sheena. I simply tied it to each strap ring to create the strap. The
checkered one is actually a guitar strap. I added hooks to each end and clipped it onto my Swoon Rosie
(Rosie has an “Interchangeable Flap”!!! See my tutorial “Interchangeable Flaps”).

Tip: Make several unique interchangeable straps. Simply add a clip to each end. Now you can use it on
several different bags. You won’t have to make a strap for EVERY bag.

5
 OTHER:
I’ve been experimenting with different medium and had the idea to give my Swoon Rosie peacock bag a
‘tail’. This bag is the same as pictured above but with different interchangeable flap on her. Of course,
it would have helped if the ‘tail’ was made with peacock colors, but that’s all I had on hand. Don’t be
afraid to mix masculine and feminine charms. This Emkie Designs Hippo Hobo bag has pretty sparkly
beads and a gun charm!

The possibilities endless and end results are simply amazing! Have fun upcycling to personalize and
embellish your bags!!!

I hope you found this helpful!

Lori Bailey ( Facebook > L Ann Bailey )

6
 Anne Verberckmoes
I’m thrifty. I like to save as much as possible, so I can also spend a lot.
Throwing away good stuff does not feels right to me.
So when I sew and need a zipper that needs to be shortened, I don’t throw away the ends. Well if they are
smaller than 5” I do, because I have not yet found a way to actually use a zipper that is shorter than 5”.
But if it is 5 ½ or longer, no way will I throw it away.
So when you need to make a little zipper pocket in a wallet or bag, you just make the zipper opening ac-
cordingly to the zipper size you have in your zipper scrap basket.

This is a tutorial of how I make sure my zipper and the ‘hole’ in the wallet or bag fit perfectly.

Serial Bagmakers - 2017 - custom size zipper opening - Page 1/5

I found this little piece of zipper in my basket. I keep every piece of zipper that is at least 5 1/2”, because
you can fit your hand in a pocket opening that is 5”. Of course not a pocket in a bag, but excellent for a little
coin pocket in a wallet.

Add a spare zipper pull. You can buy them separately. It’s important that your zipper pull is the same brand
as your zipper tape.

Measure your zipper piece. In this case it is exactly 5 ½”.

Mark ⅜” on the zipper tape, at both ends.

Serial Bagmakers - 2017 - custom size zipper opening - Page 2/5

The part that is ‘outside’ the middle part of the zipper will not be visible. ⅜” is just enough to sew the zip-
per comfortably.

Since you don’t have zipper stops on this scrap piece, the chances are high that while you are working with
this zipper, you will end up pulling the zipper pull off. We don’t want that to happen, so hand sew the two
ends together with a few stitches to close them.

Do this on both ends.

Measure again what the final opening will be. Measure between the lines you drew on the zipper tape. In
this case it is 4 ⅝”.

Serial Bagmakers - 2017 - custom size zipper opening - Page 3/5

I always use a zipper facing when I add a pocket in a bag or wallet. This way you will have hidden zipper
tape on the inside of the pocket. I never follow what a designer says in the pattern for placing a zipper, I
just do it this way. With 180 bags plus under my belt, this makes me that confident!
My zipper facing in this picture is 1” heigh and I begin with the width that the designer says. In this case it
was for a zipper pocket that had to be 6” wide. I cut a zipper facing to 7” x 1”. It’s also important that you
interface this little piece.

Draw a line down the centre of the longest length.

Fold the fabric in half along the width and mark this line too.

I found that an opening that is ⅜ heigh is excellent for my taste. I don’t like a lot of zipper tape, but a little
bit can’t hurt.

So draw a line ¼” from the raw edges along the length at the top and bottom.
Serial Bagmakers - 2017 - custom size zipper opening - Page 4/5
The visible part of the zipper will be 4 ⅝”, so measure a box that will be 4 ⅝” centred over the first line
drawn.

I drew the box that will be the final box here in dark black. All other lines were just to help drawing this box.

You know that every zipperbox also has little triangles. Those still need to be drawn.

A triangle is always ½” with the top on the middle line. So I measured ½” and set a point. I used the wrong
pen for doing that and taking pictures with 1 hand-made that the point is a little bit bigger then needed. ;-).
You can see clearly on the right side that the dot is in the correct place 1/2” in from the side of the rectangle
on the centre line.

Et voila. A complete zipper box exactly what our little zipper will need.

Serial Bagmakers - 2017 - custom size zipper opening - Page 5/5

How to Sew a Decorative Zipper on Top of a Hand Bag
I am assembling a Belle Baby bag for my grandson’s new baby. It will have cording to dress it up. I
found a white lace zipper that I want to put on the outside of the opening. I want to share my
method with other sewists, so…..

Tutorial

Here is my tutorial showing a step by step method. Follow your pattern directions, to prepare the
two top and side panels, getting them ready for the zipper placement.

Prepare the top and side panels as shown in pattern instructions on the
exterior fabric, foam interfacing and lining fabric. Sew all edges of the
foam to make it thinner (1/16”). The following steps will show the
modifications to make.

On each side panel, find the middle and draw a 3” line down the middle on
the exterior fabric, foam interfacing and lining fabric. Cut down the line,
then cut away1/16th of an inch on each side of this line on the exterior
fabric, foam interfacing and lining fabric.

Pin the two top panels to the exterior side panels, leaving 1/8th inch space
between them on the exterior fabric, foam interfacing and lining fabric.
(This is to leave space for the zipper opening.) Repeat for other end of top
and side panels on the exterior fabric, foam interfacing and lining fabric.

To make the zipper placket fit your zipper, with fabric right side down,
draw the placket into the side panel on each end on the exterior fabric, and
foam interfacing. Fold the placket into the middle of the handbag and stitch
down on the exterior fabric, and foam interfacing. (you will use the lining
piece later when sewing the complete lining together.)

Lay the completed top and side panel section wrong side down, center zipper
over the placket opening. You can use tape to hold zipper. Or pin zipper on
top of the panel section, overlapping onto zipper placket area about 3/8” on
each side panel.

If you have extended the zipper placket opening to fit your zipper, sew
1/8” topstitch in on the zipper tape on top of the fabric, placing a piece of
material on the ends of the zipper to hide them. This section is now ready
to be sewn to the rest of the bag
Making a Double zipper

By: Kate Maryon

[email protected]

Making a double opening zipper from zipper tape is very easy. You will need to determine what length
zipper plus a couple inches for safety and you will need and two zipper tabs.

Look at the end of the zipper where its been cut and determine which side has its link at the top and
that is the side you will thread into the zipper tab first.. if you thread the other side that is when you will
get bumps and bulges. In this picture it’s the right hand side we would thread first.
Page 2.

To get a double zipper you will thread one tab from the right and one from the left.

Its really as simple as it sounds it just takes a little bit of practice and patience.
 March 3, 2017
Creative Bag Making
Technique and Tips by Rita Faye Nickels

I consider this a Technique I use in My Bag

Making.
I use a paint program, like Paint Shop Pro or
Photoshop to make my shapes and even patterns
for bag making.
The shapes are great for appliqueing onto your
bag if you so choose.

I realize this is not for everyone but I thought it

would be neat to share in case someone else might
find it of Value. It has been to me.

A Zipper Box

Bear made from Circles and Shapes

It is great for Pockets, Flaps, Connectors and so forth.
It is even good to make your images then have them
digitized, Which I have done.
The programs are relatively inexpensive and so much
fun to use. There are free ones out there as well .

Thank You.
A common envelope opener is great to use to cut threads when using a serger and/or chain piecing! It
can also be used to help rip out basting stitches.
Using old file folders as a pattern template

A few weeks ago, my work decided to get rid of old manila folders they were no longer using.
These are old file folders from things that are beyond our records retention policy, and are in
not-so-pristine condition. One look at them, and I had the perfect use for them instead.

Printed paper patterns from PDFs are fantastic, but they are often one-use items. No matter
how careful you are, the edges seem to crumple. Likewise, the larger than one page items
requiring taping and special careful handling to be sure the pieces stay in place. The
legal-sized file folder are large enough to hold these pattern pieces as one whole piece instead.

Manila folders have the benefit of being both a thicker cardstock and having a pre-built fold in
them. This allows you the choice of either cutting a piece on the fold or using the full pattern
piece to guarantee fabric print placement.

For patterns that I know I’m going to re-use, pieces I need to guarantee placement, or pieces
that are taped together, I first transfer the pattern pieces to the manila folders, creating a thicker,
more firm (longer lasting) template piece.

What you need:

Printed paper pattern
Scissors
Manila file folders
Pen
 Items needed
First, cut all the paper pattern pieces out. Join any two piece pattern pieces with tape as
indicated by the pattern.

Cut the pattern pieces out

Lay the pieces out on the file folder, as you would on the fabric, utilizing the fold in the file folder
Try not to waste space, so you can use the folder for multiple pattern pieces.

Pattern pieces placed on the file folder

Trace around the piece, marking the outline on the file folder.

Faint outline of traced pattern pieces

Cut the pieces out of the folder.

Transfer any notations on the pattern piece to the new pattern template.

Be sure to include the pattern name and number of pieces needed

Use the new pattern template instead of the paper templates, and enjoy not reprinting the file
next time!

Also enjoy not having to deal with taped together pieces!

So if you have access to some old file folders that are no longer needed, or if you happen to be
perusing your local office supply store and decide to buy a box, give them a new life as your
pattern templates.

Enjoy, and I hope this helps someone!

Ronda
You know how you lick your fingertips when pages are stuck together?

A drop of glycerin on your fingertips will make them slightly tacky, which will help you “grab” fabric and
thread easier and help you guide your project at the sewing machine. It does not leave residue on
woven fabrics; I find it invaluable while quilting but it is helpful during all sewing.

<<<< --- lasts for YEARS!!!

 Modify an EXISTING Bag to Accommodate “Interchangeable Flaps & Frames”

Many of us enjoy making our own bags. Picking out the fabric and seeing it come to life is just so
exciting! But if you are like me, I’m sure you have plenty of bags in your closet right now. Use this
tutorial as a guide. Same concepts can be applied to virtually any bag with a flap.

In this tutorial, I will show you how to alter your EXISTING bag to accommodate different flaps. You’ll
actually end up with TWO interchangeable modules (Flaps and Frames). I’m so excited! I cannot wait to
share these with you! I urge you to read this entire document before starting. There’s a couple
different methods discussed here so depending on your desired outcome, you may bypass several steps.

I will demonstrate using Swoon Glenda pattern. Here’s a pic of my Swoon Glenda with magnetic snap
closure.

If the flap of the bag is small or if you don’t want a frame, skip to CREATE THE FLAP section. However,
you will lose use of the original flap. My personal preference is to skip the frame. This will speed up the
process tremendously. I am only including the frame tutorial here in case you have an existing flap that
you can’t live without. A frame will salvage it AND accommodate interchangeable flaps.

CREATE THE FRAME

Print two copies of the flap pattern piece. The first will be used to create your new frame. The second
will be used to create your new flap. If you do not have the pattern, simply measure or trace the flap
and add the desired seam allowance to create your template.

-1-
Measure and mark 1 7/8” (1.875”) in from the edge all the way around. In this example, the pattern
piece is to be cut on the fold so I only marked 3 sides. Cut on the lines you just drew. This will be your
frame template.

Cut out two frame templates.

Use one of your templates to cut out your frame fabric. Pay close attention to any instructions in your
pattern (this one is CUT ON THE FOLD). Label this template “Flap Frame” and set aside.

-2-
Using the second frame template, are going to make a template for your interfacing. I usually just
eyeball it by lying my 1” Velcro in the center and mark with a pencil. I am using Velcro for this tutorial,
but you can accomplish the same with snaps, buttons, magnetic strips, etc.

-3-
Cut out along the lines you just made. Label this piece “Flap Frame Interfacing” then cut out your
interfacing. Center and tape or glue the interfacing onto the wrong side of your frame fabric. Place
double sticking tape along the inner and outer interfacing all the way around.

Clip the corners of your fabric (be careful not to cut too far in). Fold the fabric to adhere to the double
sided tape. Your frame should look like this.

-4-
Flip the “Frame” so that the wrong side is facing up. Clip your Velcro (loop side) in place.

Topstitch around the inner and outer frame to secure the Velcro in place.

Use clips or tape to hold the Velcro (hook side) to the permanent bag flap and topstitch around the
inner and outer perimeter. (Make sure you are not covering your snap with the Velcro.) I found that
trimming ¼” off the width of the Velcro works best. Or simply use a slightly smaller Velcro on the actual
flap. You may need to hand crank around your snap depending on your snap placement.

-5-
Attach the frame to the flap. It serves as a decorative place holder for your interchangeable flaps and
allows you to use the original flap as well.

Here are a couple examples of Swoon Glenda with Interchangeable Frames.

CREATE THE FLAP

This process goes much faster so you can whip out all sorts of flaps in no time!! Cut out your
interchangeable flap using the flap template from your chosen pattern. If you do not have a pattern,
you will need to sketch a template. Measure or trace the flap and add seam allowance before cutting
out.

Press and interface. I used SF101. You will need to be your own judge on interfacing as it may vary
depending on your bag.

-6-
Lay out your bag so you can place the interchangeable flap over the top of the permanent flap.
Determine the seam allowance you will need to fold under. In this case it was ¼” along each side and
the bottom and ½” across the top.

Flip it so wrong side is up. Use glue or double sided tape and fold over to accommodate the seam
allowances determined in previous step.

Use clips to hold your Velcro (loop side) around the flap.

Topstitch. I like to make two rows of topstitching to secure the Velcro.

-7-
To change the flap, simply remove the frame (if you are using one) and position the interchangeable flap
onto the Velcro. Attach the flap to the magnetic snap first then align to adhere to the Velcro.

Here are a couple examples of Swoon Glenda with Interchangeable Flaps.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial.

L Ann Bailey ( Facebook > L Ann Bailey )

-8-
 Make a Bag with “Interchangeable Flaps”

I have been making a lot of the same bag lately. I wanted something slightly different on each one. For
example, I wanted a bag with fur accents for one particular outfit. I wanted the same bag for just
everyday use. And yet I wanted the same bag to have glitz and glamour for nights on the town!
Needless to say, this was becoming an expensive task and taking a lot of my precious time and closet
space!

I made the same bag three times to accomplish the above. It finally dawned on me that I needed to
figure out a way to accomplish the same with ONE bag. After much trial and error, I decided on what I
now refer to as my “Interchangeable Flaps” method. It works great for me! You can use this method on
virtually any bag you are making if it has a flap.

I will walk you thru the process below using Blue Calla’s free Sweet Pea bag pattern. I recommend using
neutral colors for the body.

You will need to print two copies of the flap pattern. The first one we will modify to create the
permanent flap base. Measure from the top of the pattern down 3” PLUS the seam allowance and draw
a line (refer to your pattern to determine seam allowance). In this pattern, the seam allowance is 3/8”
so I drew the line at 3 3/8” (3.375”) from the top. Cut on that line. This is now your new flap template.

Continue with the designer’s instructions to complete the bag but use this new flap template instead. It
should look like this.

-1-
Once the bag is complete, sew Velcro (hook side) to the top side of the flap piece making sure to align it
as close to the bag’s back panel as possible. For this tutorial, I am using Velcro. You could use snaps,
buttons, magnetic strips, etc., but those would require a few additional modifications

Now let’s have some fun creating the interchangeable flap(s). Use the second print out of the flap (the
original pattern piece). Refer to your pattern and assemble the flap per the designer’s instructions with
one slight modification. BEFORE sewing the exterior and interior flaps together, use double sided tape
and fold the tops over to the wrong side of both the lining and exterior flap pieces. I have folded them
at 3/8” seam allowance because that’s the seam allowance indicated for Blue Calla Sweet Pea (first
picture below). Be aware if you are using a different pattern, the seam allowance may be different.
Your turned flap should look similar to this one (second picture below).

Sew the Velcro (loop side) on the interior side of your interchangeable flap aligning at the top.
Topstitch around the entire flap. This will secure the Velcro and close the top of the flap. You will need
to topstitch a second row across the top to completely secure the Velcro.

-2-
You are now ready to interchange your flaps!!!! Attach the flap to the snap first and then align and
adhere to the Velcro.

Here are a couple examples of Blue Calla Sweet Pea with different flaps!

Here are a couple examples of Swoon Rosie using the same technique.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial!

L Ann Bailey ( Facebook > L Ann Bailey )

-3-
 How to Make Reinforced Hand Bag Handles Using Webbing

There’s really nothing worse than wimpy hand bag handles when you’ve spent so much time
sewing that perfect bag! Sometimes a layer of SF101 and 4 layers of fabric is just not enough!
And if you’re working with some stretchy vinyl, overtime, your handles could be saggy or
worse, come lose. And if your bag needs to hold a book or two, it’s a good idea to beef those
handles up!
I had that issue with some stretchy vinyl recently and wondered how I might reinforce the
strap. I happened to have some 1” webbing I bought to make some “fanny packs” so I
thought, this should work! It did! Now you can do it too!

Tutorial
Here’s my tutorial on creating reinforced bag handles using webbing (in this case ¾”). Besides
the webbing, you’ll need some ¼” double sided tape (DST), and your fabric, of course.
1 Cut your 4” wide strap the length desired. Depending on the bag, you may want a little
more extra “tail” sewn in for a stronger hold. Press and then fold in half and press to
make a center crease.
2 Put a piece of DST along the top edge (about ¼” down) of the strap. Remove top film to
expose the other sticky side.

3 Adhere the ¾” webbing along this same length of DST; leave a little room at the top.
4 Proceed to fold the fabric over the webbing towards the center crease/line you made,
leaving a tiny gap in the middle. Repeat for other side.

5 Fold together, ensuring the exposed edge is even. Clip in place.

6 Using your sewing machine seam guide, stitch down the open side first with a ¼” (or less)
seam allowance. Stitch down the other side (I like to stitch on the same side of the fabric
when I sew straps).
7 Give your sturdy new handles a press and proceed to insert as per pattern instructions.
A few notes:
 I use an industrial sewing machine for most things, so it has no problem stitching
through the webbing, etc. Hopefully you can do this successfully on your domestic.
 Some people’s needles get gummed up when sewing through DST. You might want to
test first and/or use something less sticky to secure the webbing in place.
Hope you enjoyed!
Kelley Rao

Credits:
I think webbing is commonly used in this fashion, but I do not recall a direct page or person
where this idea has previously been documented/published.

Learn more about me:

Website: http://www.sewkelley.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sewkelley
 March Tips.docx

How to Quilt Vinyl by Laura Middleton

In this example, I am making the Charlotte Tote by Swoon Patterns. For each
piece of the pattern that I want quilted, I add approximately 2” to allow for fabric
(vinyl) shrinkage that will occur as the quilting process progresses. So, if I need an
11” square for a pattern piece (including an extra ¼” which I cover below), I will
want to cut my fabric a good 1-1/2 to 2” larger. Keep in mind, this is a time-
consuming process but the end result is just stunning! I’m delighted to share this
with you today!
Gather Your Tools
 6”x24” quilter ruler
 Cutting mat with ruler lines
 Vinyl
 Foam (Pellon FF77R10R Flex Foam Sew in Stabilizer)
 Spray adhesive
 Sewing notions (thread, marking pens, snips, etc.)
Let’s Get Started
1. Before you start quilting, ensure your piece is clean, lint free
2. Baste spray vinyl onto foam piece (your foam piece should be larger overall
than your vinyl piece.)
 3. Flip your vinyl over and mark the center on all four sides of the foam (my
piece is 14” square)
Begin Marking Your Quilting Lines
1. Put ruler in the bottom corner and align to the 1” mark (use a grid mat)
next to the center mark on top. Draw that line.
2. Now repeat this for the opposite side; 1” over and down to the other
corner. Draw this line.
3. We are now going to draw the rest of our lines, using a 1” margin (you may
wish to make yours smaller or larger, but this works best for me).
4. Shift the vinyl piece as needed to draw all the lines. When done, it will look
like this:

Let’s Start Quilting

1. I use Gutermann polyester thread in both the top and the bottom. This is a
very thread intensive project, so have some bobbins wound and ready and
keep an eye on your bobbin.
2. I recommend a stitch length 3.5; it’s pretty and keeps the bag from wear
and tear over the years.
 3. Starting on the end of the foam so that when it reaches the vinyl, stiches
are pretty. Yes, you are sewing on the back of your fabric; your bobbin
thread will be visible when all is complete.
4. Keep thread tails behind so they don’t nest (you don’t want to be ripping
out stitches, especially in vinyl).
5. Use your favorite foot (walking, etc.) to ensure the fabric feeds smoothly.
6. Trim off threads after each line of stitching so they don’t get caught later on
in another line of stitching.
7. When complete, after all the quilting, your piece will be smaller than what
you started with. Remember, my vinyl was 14” square. It’s now 13”
square.
8. Trim off excess foam and vinyl to get perfect square; this also trims off any
excess threads and leaves you with a gorgeous piece of quilted vinyl.
9. Repeat this step for each piece of the pattern. I even quilt my handles!

Important Tip from Laura

When cutting your pattern pieces out, add ¼” around it and then after you’ve cut
it out from the quilted fabric, do a zig zag stitch around the edge. This will secure
the fabric/threads and will also make it smaller, going back to the original size of
the pattern piece.

A complete video covering this tutorial is available here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7ulnDeTQko
 ID Window Tutorial by Teresa Lucio Designs

You need:
-1x Fabric of your choice
-1x Clear vinyl for window 3 ½” x 2 ½”
- Glue

1-Print and cut the pattern piece along the solid black lines. On the wrong side of the fabric, trace with an erasable
marking pen and cut the fabric.
2-Using a rotary cutter or one small scissor and cut the X on both boxes.

ID Window tutorial by Teresa Lucio Designs Página 1

3- Fold each sides, and finger press in place, ensuring the edges are straight.
4- Trim the points, to leave about ½” remaining on each side.

5- Using glue, carefully fuse one side at a time, using your iron. Repeat for all four box sides on both pieces.

6- Fold the raw edges of the one side at ¼” and press in place.
7- Fold the fabric RST, so the short edges meet. Pin, ensuring that the 2 windows line up with each other.

ID Window tutorial by Teresa Lucio Designs Página 2

8- Sew up the one side and the top only, using a ¼” seam. Clip the corners.
9- Flip inside out, poke out corners and give another press so it’s nice and flat and insert your piece of vinyl.

10- Using a long stitch length, topstitch the inside border around the window at 1/8”. Then topstitch the Side
(folded) edge only at 1/8”.

11- Then you can add it to any wallet where it’ll fit, by topstitching 1/8” around the 3 sides and bottom of the
pocket, which encloses the bottom, leaving one side with an opening to enter your ID. Enjoy

ID Window tutorial by Teresa Lucio Designs Página 3

 Reverse Top Stitching ala Swoon Patterns

If you have ever made the small Coraline bag from Swoon Patterns, or any bag that has a
recessed zipper and otherwise tight sewing constraints (and yes, especially on a domestic
sewing machine), you might have struggled with that final top stitching – and you really need
to master this. But if you followed the Swoon pattern instructions, there IS a tip there, did you
see it? Alicia leaves nothing to chance and once I saw this AND tried it, I was hooked! It’s
simple and yet often overlooked. Top stitch your bag inside out.
At first, you may think why on earth would I do this… but let me explain via the photos below
(that also give you a sneak preview of the gorgeous new Rose Handbag from Bagstock Design).

1 My pretty bag is ready to be top stitched! Since I got my

JUKI 1541, I don’t dread that part at all. Let’s put this
pretty girl under the machine.
2 She’s right side up, but I can’t see what I am sewing
below…hope I am not sewing the fabric below. It’s just
plain hard to manipulate with the bag this way (unless
you have a cylinder and that’s another day and tip).

3 Let’s flip her inside out (with clips in place). Thank

goodness I have pretty stitching on this one.
4 Now we are working on the inside of the bag (with the
front of the bag still on top) and I can see my top stitching
perfectly, while avoiding other parts of my new bag. I
slowly if not methodically work my way around the bag,
keeping everything in place (watch out for wrinkles).

Trust me, once you sew your bag this way (which is really
ideal for small bags or bags with recessed zippers), you
will notice a HUGE improvement on your ability to top
stitch.

A few notes:
 I used my JUKI 1541 and JUKI 8700 for the entire construction of this bag. If you are a
bag maker, these two machines are a must have (well, get a Cylinder while you’re at it).
Hope you enjoyed!
Kelley Rao

Credits:
I learned this tip from Alicia Miller of Swoon Patterns.

Learn more about me:

Website: http://www.sewkelley.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sewkelley
 Print Your Own Sew In Labels

In making my own sew in labels I use the Avery.com Design

and Print website. Choose the style of template and icons
that you want. Design your own labels!

Once the label is designed I print them on drapery

black out fabric. The white version of the
fabric works best.

Cut your fabric 8.5” x 11” and insert in a printer. Make

sure your image prints on the fabric side and not
the plastic coated side of the fabric.

Trim your labels, use double sided tape and

position it on the lining fabric then stitch.
The New and Improved Zipper Tab!
Apon testing the new Zig-zag pouch pattern for the lovely Liz, I came up
with a new way to end a zipper. The Zig-zag pattern calls for placing a
ribbon clamp at the end of the zipper. I don’t have any ribbon clamps nor
have I ever heard of one before so I decided to improvise! Thus creating
a clever and easy new way of finishing a zipper end!
Materials List:

 Zig-zag Pattern from Moments.

 Key ring, D-ring or Gate ring.
 Scrap leather, vinyl or fabric.
 Hand sewing needle and thread. *Optional*
 Fray check. *Optional*
1. To begin with you’ll want to completely assemble whichever Zig-zag
pouch pattern you choose and then stop after putting the zipper pull on.
I’ll be working with the Eye Glass Case.
When your zipper is ready to go, you’ll start by folding under one side of
the zipper tape and top stitching.
2. It can be a little tricky to sew such a narrow area but try out different
machine feet until you find something that works well. Originally, I
figured one of my zipper feet would work well, but in the end my straight
stitch foot worked the best. Use a 3.5-4 stitch length and sew down as far
as you can on either side of the zipper.
3. For this part I find it best to use a scrap of leather. Cut slightly wider
than your zipper (with the sides turned under) by 1 ½” long. Vinyl, cork
or any nonfraying material is easiest to use. Plus, you get a cleaner finish
but fabric is doable too! Just be sure to account for seam allowance.

4. Now you can take your piece of leather, fold it in half, cap the end of
the zipper with it and pin in place. Next, sew around the outside of the
square with whatever machine foot works best for you. I went with a
zipper foot.
5. Next comes adding your ring of choice. I went with a key ring, but I’ve
also applied this concept to a hand bag and the end results is quite
stunning with a gate ring.
6. Once your ring is on bend the end of your zipper back so that the right
side of the zipper teeth are showing. You’ll place the end of your zipper
tab about ½” from the base of the pouch. Then you can tack in place on
both sides of the zipper tape by machine or by hand. Either way is fine. I
do mine by hand and then fray check my knot.

And voila! You’re done!

No-sew-piping Aafke Sijen-Jongsma

Adding piping to your bags also adds a certain - je ne sais quoi.

For a lot of people sewing with piping is something they have on their wishlist
but are afraid to tackle.
You can buy premade piping or you can make your own. But with both of this,
you still will see the stitches when your sewing is not ideal.
Aafke explains the no sew piping technique. Even if your final work is not
ideal, you will not see it, since there will be no stitches to see!
If you’re new to piping, or struggle with it, this tutorial will help you create
some beautiful piping with little fuss.

Serial Bagmakers - 2016 - no-sew-piping - Page 1/5

 Lingo
SA/Seam Allowance: A seam allowance is the area between the fabric edges and the line of stitches. Seam
allowances can range from 1/4” wide to as much as several inches. Most patterns call for a specific seam
allowance. In general, most patterns call for a 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2” or 5/8” seam allowance.
Sewing an accurate seam allowance is essential in making a project work. If your seams aren’t accurate,
you may run out of fabric or the pieces may not line up correctly..

Ingredients
• If this is your first time making piping, then we would advice you to use bias tape.
The benefit of that is that it is already cut on the bias. We explain this technique with bias tape since
this is cut diagonally across the grainline. That’s why ready made bias tape is ideal to perform your first
piping.
But by all means, make your own fabric strips cut on the bias.
• Heming tape, Stitch witchery, double sided basting tape or the aliexpress version we use
• Non stick baking sheets or teflon sheets
• Cotton piping cord (or other cord)
• Scissors, ruler, roller cutter, sewing gauge
• Your iron

1
2
1 3
4 4

1 3 5 7
8 8 8 8
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15
16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16

1 Serial Bagmakers - 2016 - no-sew-piping - Page 2/5

2
 Making the piping
You’ll start by ironing open the ready made bias tape

Then you’ll lay a strip of fusible web on the wrong side of

the bias tape. I always make sure to have one side of the
fusible web in the middle of the bias tape. This way my
cording will stay put and doesn’t twist or slide out.

Cut the fusible web strip the same length as your bias tape. If you make a long piece of piping, I advise you
to cut it when you have almost reached the end. If your iron is too hot, the fusible web will shrink and you’ll
be short. For long ends I keep it rolled up and iron until I’m almost at the end, then cut it from the roll.

Place your baking paper or teflon sheet over the fusible

tape. Iron over it in order to fuse the fusible tape to your
bias tape. Don’t pull of the baking paper or teflon sheet
until it has fully cooled down! The baking paper will tear
if you pull it off when it hasn’t had enough time to cool
down.

Serial Bagmakers - 2016 - no-sew-piping - Page 3/5

It should peel away easily and leave a strip of fusible tape
nicely glued to the bias tape

Take your cording and place it in the middle of your bias

tape. Fold one end of the bias tape over the cord wrong
sides together, thus sandwiching the cord.
Clip, or pin, so the raw edges of both long edges are
aligned.

Iron the fabric in order to let the fusible tape glue both
sides of the bias tape together.
After ironing one side, and having ironed in the whole
cording, turn over your fabric and iron the other side
against the cording to get a nice rounded finish.

Measure the seam allowance from the cord and cut

some off if nescessary. It’s hard to calculate the need-
ed width of the bias tape, because it also depends on
the thickness of the cord.

How much seam allowance depends on your project.

Is the seam allowance in your project 3/8”, then you
leave 3/8”. is the SA 1/2”, then you leave 1/2”.

You now have piping with no ready made stitches that might show! You can place you piping between your
fabrics and use a narrow zipper foot or a piping foot to sew close to the cord. After turning your project
right side out, you no longer have to fear seeing those initial stitches in ready made piping!
Good luck and I hope to see some beautiful piping soon!

Serial Bagmakers - 2016 - no-sew-piping - Page 4/5

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Serial Bagmakers - 2016 - no-sew-piping - Page 5/5

 Cutting using the “Portable Method”
I really enjoy bag making. Seeing a bag start to take its shape is so exciting. I usually keep the finished
bag somewhere close by so that I can just admire it throughout the day thinking to myself “WOW, I
actually made that!!!” HOWEVER, there is one part of the whole process that I dread……which is the
task of interfacing and cutting out the pattern pieces. When I first started bag making, I followed the
instructions to a “T”. If it stated to cut 2 exterior, 2 interior, 2 interfacing…..literally, that’s what I
did…..one by one. Ugh! I like to believe I’ve come a long way since then and am constantly improving
with methods that work best for me.

This is the routine I currently use for interfacing and cutting. I think in the long run it is faster, produces
less fabric and interfacing waste, and I’d even call it…….PORTABLE! Plus, I don’t dread it like I used to!

(1) I start by lying out and tracing the pattern pieces onto my pressed fabric. Play around with the
placement to determine most efficient usage of the fabric. (Note, if the pattern calls for it to be
‘cut on the fold’, my preference, when using this method, is to mirror it versus ‘cut on the fold’).

-1-
(2) Once I determine the best layout, I use a temporary marker to trace the pattern pieces. This
accomplishes several things. It allows me to utilize the fabric with the least amount of waste as I
can draw the pieces very close together. It eliminates the need to pin the pattern pieces. It also
allows me to sit it aside until I am ready to cut. Plus, by using a darker marker, on most fabrics, I
can draw on either side of the fabric and see my draw lines through the fabric. Feel free to use
any marking tool that you feel comfortable with.

-2-
(3) Trim the large piece of fabric close to the outer edges of the marked pattern pieces. In this
example, my piece ended up being trimmed to 40” x 28”. Partial piece shown below.

-3-
(4) Next, I iron the interfacing onto the backside of the marked fabric. You will then have one piece
of fabric that’s marked and interfaced. (Read your pattern first!!!!) This particular pattern did
not call for all pieces to be interfaced).

(5) Many times the lining pattern pieces will be the same size as the exterior. Cut a lining fabric the
same size as your above marked fabric (40” x 28”). Be sure to read your pattern first!!! I am
using the Swoon Small India pattern as my example here. It indicates for several of the lining
pieces to also be interfaced. Interface all fabrics as instructed before proceeding.

-4-
(6) Now lay down the lining fabric, place the marked fabric on top (marks facing up). This allows
you to cut both the lining and exterior at the same time. To cut multiple bags at once, simply
stack the fabrics making sure the marked fabric is on top. If you are not using batiks, pay
attention to the actual front and back of the fabric to make sure you stack properly. Here you
can see my marked fabric stacked on top with the lining fabric underneath.

Use clips, staples, pins, and/or double sided tape to keep the layers from shifting.

-5-
(7) This is where it becomes a portable project! I will usually have a stack of different bags prepped
using this method. I leisurely cut while I sit outside with my dogs. I’ve had no problem stacking
and cutting four bags at once (8 layers) using batiks.

You could take them to work and cut out during lunch, cut while traveling (as a passenger of
course!), cut while watching TV, etc. Or, you can simply use your rotary cutter and proceed as
usual. I often wonder why fabric manufacturers don’t sell pre-interfaced fabric; at least I have
never seen any.

-6-
Tips: If you plan to make the same bag again at a later date, measure and note the size of the marked
fabric (in this example, it was 40” x 28”). I also take a photograph of the marked fabric so that I will
know the most efficient layout for future ones.

If you make the same bag often, you might want to create more durable templates. Use poster board,
cardboard, or “Flexible Chopping Mats”.

The mats come in a package of 2 and each mat is 11.5” x 15”. I got these at Dollar Tree. If your
template is too large, tape the mats together with packing or duct tape before tracing and cutting.

I hope this was helpful!

Lori Bailey ( Facebook > L Ann Bailey )

-7-
 Sew Precise Seam Allowances
It does take some time to choose your pattern, fabric, cut out, interface, and assemble it. So don’t
skimp on the fun step of sewing the bag. It took me a while to figure out this trick. I’ve ripped out
seams on more bags than I want to remember! I’ve even ruined a few bags because I trimmed the
seam allowance before turning it right side out to double check it first.

I want to show you how I use this nifty tool called the “5-in-1 Sliding Gauge”:

I use it to draw in my seam allowances before sewing. It’s a quick process and very easy to maneuver
around curves!

1
Granted, I don’t necessarily draw EVERY seam allowance, but as the layers get thicker or when the
design has a curvy or irregular shape, you will begin to appreciate this little tool!

This technique is invaluable while sewing the final assembly of the bag. It’s hard enough trying to keep
all the layers from shifting, trying to follow the seam guide on your machine, while also removing pins or
clips as you go. Whew! Simply following your drawn seam allowance as you sew - it’s so easy and
precise.

It may sound trivial, but believe me this will improve the final product tremendously!

I hope you found this helpful!

Lori Bailey ( Facebook > L Ann Bailey )

2
 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

Note : This is an add-on tutorial to the original pattern “ The Pretty

Purselet“. You will need original pattern for pattern pieces and
measurements and also to follow most of the instructions. This tutorial
is directed at explaining on how to add individual flap to the Purselet.
You can get the pattern from the following links
https://www.homemakershustle.com/products/pretty-purselet
https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/patterns/pretty-purselet/484648

Cutting Instructions
• In this style of the purselet, the front and back panel dimensions
are that of the exterior front panel in the original pattern.
• The card slot panels make up the lining panels. The card slot
panels, interior zipper panels, exterior zipper panels and zipper
tabs are of the same dimensions as given in the original pattern.
• The flap panel is given at the end of this file as the alternate flap
panel.
Cut the following pieces from the original pattern :
Exterior panels : Cut 2 fabric ( from exterior front panel)
2 lining ( from exterior front interfacing panel )
2 fusible fleece ( from exterior front interfacing
panel )

Card slot panels : Cut 2 fabric ( from the exterior front panel )
2 lining ( from exterior front interfacing panel )

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 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

Interior zipper pocket panels : Cut 4 fabric

2 interfacing
Exterior zipper pocket panels : Cut 2 fabric
2 interfacing
Zipper tabs : Cut 2 fabric
Flap Panels : Cut 2 fabric ( from the alternate flap panel given at the
end of the file ).
Cut 2 woven ( from flap interfacing panel given at the end
of the file ).
Cut 1 fusible fleece ( from the flap interfacing panel given
at the end of the file ).

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 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

Sewing Instructions
Sewing the card slots

1 2

1. Fold the card slots following the instructions given in the original
pattern.
2. Trim both the card slots panels to the size of the exterior front panel (
trim from the the extra at the bottom of the card slots panel, not from
the top ).

3 4

3. Note that we haven’t yet interfaced the card slot panel here. We will
do it now.

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 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

4. Iron the interfacing onto folds on the wrong side of the fabric. ( This is
another way of interfacing the card panels, different from what is given
in the original pattern ). Note that the interfacing and the fabric panels
are of different sizes. Interfacing is smaller than the fabric panel in
dimensions.

5. Sew along the sides of the card slot panels and also along the center.
The card slot panels will be the lining panels of the purselet.

Sewing the flap

6 7

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 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

6. Mark two points on the curved side of the lining flap panel. The marks
are 1.5” from the respective side edge and 1.25” from the bottom edge.
Attach the male part of the magnetic snaps using these marks as centre.
7. Place the exterior and lining flap panels right sides together. Pin them.

8 9

8. Sew on three sides ( two sides and bottom ) with ¼ “ seam allowance
, leaving the top edge open to turn the flap right side out.
9. Snip along the curves and trim the seam allowance to 1/8 “ ( as shown
in picture 10 ).

10 11

11. Turn the flap right sides out. Iron the flap. Top stitch along the three
sides that you have just sewn.

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 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

Putting the purselet together

12

12. Mark the centre of the exterior back panel and the flap. Place the
exterior back panel right side up and place the flap (with its lining panel
with the snaps facing you) on top of it such that the straight edge of the
flap aligns with the top edge of the exterior back panel and their centres
align.

13 14

13. Baste the flap to the exterior back panel.

14. Place one of the card slots panel on top of the exterior back panel
with flap, right sides together.

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 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

15 16

15. Pin along the top edges.

16. Sew with a ¼ “ seam allowance. Press the seams open and flip the
panels such that they are wrong sides together and top stitch along the
top edge with 1/8 “ seam allowance.

17 18

17. Make two marks on the exterior front panel such that they are 1.75”
from the respective side edges and 1.75” from the top edge. Use these
marks to attach the female part of the magnetic snaps.
18. Place the other card slot panel on top of the exterior front panel with
their right sides together and the top adges aligned.

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 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

19 20

19. Pin along the top edges and sew with a ¼ “ seam allowance.
20. Press the seams open and flip the panels such that they are wrong
sides together and top stitch along the top edge with 1/8 “ seam
allowance.

21

22

21. Following the instructions in the original pattern, prep the interior
zipper compartment ( as given in option -1 ).

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 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

22. Fold the zipper panels such that it looks like a finished zipper pocket
( lining zipper panels right sides together on the inside ) and pin the
panels to hold in place.
23 24

23. We are goin to leave the bottom of the zipper pocket open as we will
be turning out purselet through this opening.
24. Sew along the sides of the zipper pocket. Leave the bottom open.

25 26 A

26 B 26 C

10 | P a g e Home Maker’s Hustle Sewing Patterns

 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

25. Leave the zipper open. Do not forget.

26. Place the zipper pocket over the lining (card slot) panel ( you can
place it on either of the lining panels ). Pin and baste it in place. Baste
along the sides only. Leave the bottom open ( Pictures 26 A, B and C ).

28

27

27. Lay the exterior front panel with the interior zipper pocket flat open
such that the exterior front panel is on one side and the lining card slot
panel with the zipper pocket on the other side. Now place the exterior
back panel with the other card slots panel on top of this such that the
exterior front and back panels are right sides together and the lining card
slots panels are right side together.
28. Use pins or clips to hold them together.

11 | P a g e Home Maker’s Hustle Sewing Patterns

 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

29 30 31

29. Sew all around except for 4”-5” on the bottom of the lining. We will
use this opening to turn the purselet right sides out. Snip the corners and
trim the seam allowance to 1/8” .
NOTE: I did not include the exterior zipper pocket in this purselet. Had I
done that, I would have turned the purselet right sides out through that.
Turning through exterior zipper pocket is given in the original pattern
and is the best way to turn the purselet right sides out.
30. Turn the purselet right sides out through the opening in the lining.
Push the corners out in the exterior and expose the raw edges of the
lining through the lining panels of the interior zipper pocket.
31. You can see that the exterior zipper panels are on the inside when
the lining panels are exposed. We are edge stitching the opening close in
the lining zipper panels so the stitching is not exposed and is inside the
zipper pocket.

12 | P a g e Home Maker’s Hustle Sewing Patterns

 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

32 33 A

33 B

32. Fold the edges of the zipper lining panels onto the interfacing on the
wrong side of the respective card slot panels. On one side you will have
lesser bulky lining zipper panel compared to the other side.
33. Pin the folded edges in place ( 33 A) and edge stitch using a 1/8” seam
allowance ( 33 B ).
Your Purselet is ready !

13 | P a g e Home Maker’s Hustle Sewing Patterns

 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

PRETTY PURSELET – ALTERNATE FLAP

Cut 1 Exterior

Cut 1 Lining

8” W x 4” H

PRETTY PURSELET - ALTERNATE FLAP INTERFACING PANEL

Cut 2 woven

Cut 1 fleece

7.5” W x 3.5” H

14 | P a g e Home Maker’s Hustle Sewing Patterns

 Pretty Purselet Tutorial – Adding Flap

1” Test
Square

COPYRIGHT INFORMATION

Copying and/or distributing copies of this pattern or instructions is strictly

prohibited. Prohibited distribution includes paper patterns and/or PDF patterns
that are forwarded, copied, mailed or posted online for others to download.
Pattern is available for retail purchase only and intended for the original purchaser.
You are welcome to sell the products made from this pattern. A credit to the
pattern and the designer, when you share your creations on any social media,
would be much appreciated.
And please post your creations on Home Maker’s Hustle Sewing Patterns Group on
Facebook. I am sure our members would love to see your take on our patterns and
get inspired. Thank you for respecting and abiding by the terms and conditions of
my pattern use.

You can reach me on

• [email protected]
• https://www.facebook.com/groups/1645045449149046/?fref=nf
• https://www.instagram.com/home_makers_hustle/
• https://www.facebook.com/rajyalaxmipradeep/
• www.homemakershustle.com

15 | P a g e Home Maker’s Hustle Sewing Patterns

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Cut zipper panels per pattern. Place them with right
sides facing down and fold 1/2" on each short edge
and press all 4 edges. With right side of the panel
piece sandwich your zipper and sew your zipper in
place. It will now be a tube. Turn the panel piece
right side out. Now you have one side of the panel
done. Repeat for the other side. Topstitch if desired
and now you’re done. You now have zipper panels
with no raw edges.


Reverse Applique Tutorial
Written by Kylie Simonton

So you want to try reverse applique.

After hosting a live video showcasing a reverse
applique on cork fabric, I have received plenty of
questions regarding: “How’d you do that?!”

Full disclosure, I have never taken a reverse applique
tutorial. I’ve only seen the technique in passing while
admiring quilts at art and trade shows. I could be dead wrong in this whole thing,
but this technique has worked for me without any problems – so, here goes!

Materials:
• 1, 7”x5” scrap piece of cork (or any other non-fraying material)
• 1, 7”x5” scrap piece of quilting cotton
• 1, 7”x5” scrap piece of SF101 interfacing (you can use a more firm
interfacing, but I wouldn’t use something as heavy as Peltex Stabilizer)
• thread
• Teflon foot (makes sewing on the material a lot easier, but not absolutely
necessary)
• Leather-rated or denim needle
• Scissors
• Smart phone or printer
• Water-soluble marker
• Thin piece of paper or acrylic sheet (you can find acrylic sheets at hardware
stores)
For the cotton and interfacing pieces, you’ll find that once you do this more often,
you will not need as big of pieces, nor will it need to be a perfect match to the edges
of your cork (you will see that in my pictures).

Instructions:

1. Find a shape or image you’d like to incorporate using your Internet browser
on your smart phone (or print yourself a small image).
2. Lay your paper (or acrylic sheet) over your phone screen. Using a water-
soluble marker, trace around the image. Cut out the image – This is now your
stencil. In my pictures, I have used around a crab.
3. On the wrong side of your cork, find the center and lay your stencil down.
Carefully trace around your stencil and then cut that shape out from your
cork.
4. Fuse your SF101 to the wrong side of your cotton scrap piece.
5. Place your cotton scrap piece right side up. Now place your cork piece on top
of that with right side up as well.
6. Pin/Clip the edges to keep your materials from shifting.

Reverse Applique Tutorial
Written by Kylie Simonton
7. Set your stitch length to 3.5 and start sewing around the image you created in
the center of your cork. I recommend going very slowly until you become
more confident with this type of project.

8. Once you have sewn all the way around, you may reduce any excess material
from your cotton piece that goes past the edges of the cork. Do not cut away
from your stitching less that ¼” or the cotton might fray and later you’re
your project. (Example of excess in photo below):

And that’s how I do it! When you’re done, it should look something like this:

Reverse Applique Tutorial
Written by Kylie Simonton

Be apart of the Machine at:

http://lmsewingmachine.com

http://facebook.com/leanmeansewingmachine

https://www.etsy.com/shop/LMSewingMachine

http://instagram.com/kyliesimonton

http://instagram.com/lmsewingmachine

http://facebook.com/groups/leanmeansewingmachine
 Creative Bag Making
Tips and Tricks by Rita Faye Nickels. March 2nd.
2017
How to Save Steps for Pocket Zipper Construction.
On a piece of printer or other paper
Draw out a rectangle
9 inches Long
by 2 and 1 /2 inches wide.

Measure in one inch on all sides and mark that

drawing out your zipper box do not put in the middle line
so it looks like this. Ignore the dots *LOL*

Cut out all excess paper but leave a little roon around the box
then transfer that to freezer paper and use the dull side. And cut out your template.
The shiny side is for ironing your pattern onto your pocket piece.
When done find and mark your quarter inch line on the outside
of zipper box for both sides. It should look like this.

I don't draw or cut too straight but you get the idea I hope.
Cut your Pocket piece 9 width to your pocket length lay the pattern
on top and iron the shiny side onto your material

Now take a Pen or Pencil and draw around your box onto
your materal , put a ruler onto the dots draw your 1/4 line in
the middle and your 45 degree lines on the 4 edges.
This will save you some steps in measuring each and every
time you want to do a pocket. I hope this tutorial is
understandable . Thank You. Rita

file:///C/Creative%20Bag%20Making%20Tutorial/for%20creative%20bad%20making.txt[3/2/2017 4:10:00 AM]

 Tutorial
phone pouch
by Gena Cunha This is a sleeve phone pouch
with a snug fit, when you pull
the strip the phone will come
out, when you push the
phone in, the strip goes
down, like magic!

Instructions to adapt to any

phone size and also a snap
closure included.

[email protected]
genycartes.wix.com/genycartes
 Materials

• 2 or 3 different FQ of cotton fabric : 1 or 2 for exterior and another for lining

• Scrap piece of cork fabric, leather, Vinyl or Kraft-Tex.

• Less than ¼ yd of medium weight fusible interfacing - Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex | Vilene G700

• Less than ¼ yd of fleece - Vilene H630 | Pellon 987F fusible fleece

Printing
When printing set scaling to “none” or “100%” in your printer properties. A 1” (2.5 cm) test square is
included with the pattern pieces

Sewing basics

Seam Allowance (SA) : Seam allowance is ¼” (7 mm) unless otherwise specified. The SA is included
in the pattern pieces.
RS : Right Side. All pieces are sewn RS together, unless otherwise indicated.
WS : Wrong Side.
Backstitch : You should backstitch always at the beginning and end of each seam, except when
indicated.
Basting Stitch : Sewing using a longer stitch length.
Topstitch : Sewing using a longer stitch length.

NOTE : This is not a pattern, it is just a tutorial with pattern pieces. You're welcome to make
items to sell using this tutorial.

Sleeve Phone Pouch - Tutorial 2 / 10

 SLEEVE PHONE POUCH TUTORIAL

Preparation
1) Making the pattern pieces for your phone size
The pattern pieces provided are made for a 5” phone, but using the following instructions, it is possible
to adapt to any size phone, just do a bit of simple math and that’s it!

I will exemplify, I usually make these calculations :

H = Height W = Width D = Depth

H of pattern piece = phone H + D + 1” (2,5 cm)

W of pattern piece = phone W + D + 1” (2,5 cm) H

Math done in centimeters - for inches you should follow the

exact same method.

So we have on my example a 5” phone with these dimensions :

14,32 (H) x 7,22 (W) x 0,87 (D) cm
D
H of pattern piece = 14,32 + 0,87 + 2,5 cm = 17,69 cm W
W of pattern piece = 7,22 + 0,87 + 2,5 cm = 10,59 cm

If the result of the sum is an odd number round it down to the nearest half or quarter inch / cm.

We will round it down in this case to 17,5 (H) x 10,5 (W) cm, the dimension of you pattern piece.

You can draw your own pattern or using the pattern piece provided, just add to or trim to the pattern
piece so it becomes the desired size (don’t forget to round the bottom corners). The fleece should
be cut 1/4” smaller all around so it is out of the SA.

2) Cutting and fusing

Additionally to cutting the pieces as indicated on the pattern pieces, cut:

- For strip : cut 1 exterior fabric - 12” x 2 1/4” ( you can use instead an 1/2” ribbon with the same
length)
- For strip sliding tab : cut 1 in cork fabric - 5/8” x 1 1/2”
- For strip tab : cut 1 in cork fabric - 1” x 3/4” - if using a closure snap see first Appendix A - 1.

Fuse interfacing to all fabrics, Do NOT fuse interfacing to the strip, you do not want this to be stiff.
If using 2 different fabrics on the exterior, first sew the 2 fabrics together and then fuse the fusible
fleece, centered, on the WS of the exterior fabrics.

Sleeve Phone Pouch - Tutorial 3 / 10

 Assembling

3 ) Make the strip (fabric not interfaced), by folding the fabrics like in bag straps, fold in half joining the
long raw edges with WS together, press to create a crease then open, fold each edge towards the
center crease and press, fold in half and press again. Topstitch at 1/8” on both long sides (photo 1) -
The strip tab will be applied on a later stage.

4) Take one of the lining fabrics and mark a line at 2 3/8” from the bottom edge. Mark the middle of
that line. Take the previous strip and pin it so it’s towards the top of the lining and the raw edges of the
strip match the long mark, centered with the middle mark. (photo 2). Stitch it securely at 1/8”. Fold the
strip down and stitch again at 1/4” from the strip edge.

2 3/8”

Photo 1 Photo 2
5) Take the other lining piece and mark a line at 1 1/4” from the top edge, mark the center of that line.
Take the sliding tab piece in cork fabric and put a bit of glue on the WS along the 2 short edges, then
flip it and put it on the lining fabric, matching the top of the sliding tab with the line you just drew,
centered. Stitch the sliding tab securely on both short sides (photo 3).

6) At this point If using a closure snap see Appendix A - 2. Join one exterior fabric (the one that will be
the front of the pouch) with the lining piece with the long strip attached RS together and pin the top
edges. Stitch at 1/4” SA. Repeat to sew the other exterior and lining fabrics. Press the lining fabric away
from the exterior so the seam is towards the lining on both sewn pieces (photo 4).

1 1/4”

Photo 3 Photo 4

Sleeve Phone Pouch - Tutorial 4 / 10

 Finishing
7) Join the 2 pieces RS together, aligning all the edges. Make sure that the seams where the exterior
and lining meet on both sides are aligned. Sew around at 1/4” SA leaving a gap on the lining to turn,
please note that on the lining you should start at 1/4” SA and gradually increase to 3/8” SA (see diagram
bellow), this will help the pouch to be more snug and reduce bunching of the lining.

8) Trim the SA to about 1/8” (not on the open part). Turn the entire pouch to the RS. Press well, stitch
closed the opening on the lining and then put the lining to the inside. Adjust the top seam well so the
lining is lying flush inside. Press again the top seam to flatten. Topstitch at 1/8” around the top edge,
make sure you move the strip out of the way (photo 5).

Start at ¼” SA and gradually

¼”SA
increase to ⅜” SA

Exterior Lining

4” (10 cm ) lining gap

1/4” SA ⅜” SA
Photo 5

9) Now take the tip of the strip and slide it through the sliding strip tab (photo 6), make sure the strip is
not twisted, to make it easier partially fold down the top of the pouch to expose the sliding tab. Put the
phone or something about the same size inside the case so the strip goes all the way down (photo 7).

Photo 6 Photo 7

Sleeve Phone Pouch - Tutorial 5 / 10

10) There will be a remaining of the strip overhanging. (at this point If using a closure snap see Appendix
A - 3). Measure 1” from the edge of the pouch and trim (photo 8).

11) Take the remaining piece, the cork strip tab. (at this point If using a closure snap see Appendix A -
4 to 6). Fold it in half, joining the 2 shorter edges and finger press to make a center crease. Apply glue
along all the tab. Take the fabric strip and slide in the tip so the raw edge is against the middle fold (photo
9). Clip the tab and let the glue dry. Topstitch around the tiny tab.

1”

Photo 8 Photo 9

You are finished!

Sleeve Phone Pouch - Tutorial 6 / 10

 Pattern Piece A - Body

Sleeve for 5” phone

Cut 2 exterior fabric

Cut 2 lining fabric

Cut 4 Medium weight fusible interfacing

(Note : if using 2 different fabrics
on the exterior cut only 2)

Cut 2 fusible fleece on the dashed line

phone pouch

Print test
Square

1”x 1”
(2,5 x 2,5 cm)

Sleeve Phone Pouch - Tutorial 7 / 10

ALTERNATIVE PATTERN PIECES TO CUT EXTERIOR IN 2 DIFFERENT FABRICS

To make a full body A piece in 2 different fabrics, cut the exterior fabrics with these pieces
instead and sew A-1 to A-2 with 3/8” SA.

Pattern Piece A-1 - Top Body

Sleeve for 5” phone

Cut 1 exterior fabric A

Cut 1 Medium weight fusible interfacing

FLIP TO THE OTHER SIDE AND

Cut 1 exterior fabric A

Cut 1 Medium weight fusible interfacing

Pattern Piece A-2

Bottom Body

Sleeve for 5” phone

Cut 1 exterior fabric B

Cut 1 Medium weight fusible interfacing

FLIP TO THE OTHER SIDE AND

Cut 1 exterior fabric B

Cut 1 Medium weight fusible interfacing

Print test
Square

1”x 1”
(2,5 x 2,5 cm)

Sleeve Phone Pouch - Tutorial 8 / 10

 SLEEVE PHONE POUCH TUTORIAL - APPENDIX A
Adding a closure snap

The sleeve phone pouch was conceived to be a snug fit, so the phone won’t slide out easy, but if you
worry about the security of your phone, the next steps show you how to add a snap to the strip tab.

1 - To start, the strip tab needs to be bigger than on the tutorial instructions. On my example I used a
3/8” magnetic snap, really tiny, so I cut my strip tab 3/4” (w) x 1 1/2” (h), but if you are going to use a
bigger snap you have to enlarge the tab accordingly so the snap fits and you still have some edge to
stitch the tab in the end.

2 - Before you sew the front exterior fabric to the lining with the long strip, install the female part of the
snap : measure 1” down from the top raw edge of the front exterior fabric, centered, and apply your
female part of the snap (fig. A).

3 - The strip must be a bit longer than instructed in the tutorial, because it needs to bend forward to meet
the snap on the exterior front fabric, again in my case I measured 1 3/4” from the sewed edge and
trimmed. (fig. B), you might need to adjust this measurement depending of the size of you strip tab.

1”
trim

Apply the
female snap 1 3/4"

Fig. B

Fig. A

Sleeve Phone Pouch - Tutorial 9 / 10

4 - Take the strip tab and fold in half to make a center crease. Find the center of one of the sides and
apply the male part of the magnetic snap like on fig. C.

5 - Apply glue along all the WS of the tab. Take the fabric strip and slide in the tip so the raw edge is
against the middle fold on the side without snap, make sure you are applying on the correct side of the
strip, the WS of the snap should be facing the front of the pouch, it should look like on fig. D, then fold
the part with the snap down and clip. Let the glue dry.

fold down

Strip Tab - RS view Strip Tab - WS view

Apply
the male snap

Bend the
Tab fold line prongs “in”

Fig. C

Fig. D
Stitch
6 - To finish we need to stitch the tab securely, because of the
bulk of the snap it might not be an easy task, so if not at all
possible to stitch around, stitch only on the strip side (fig. E).
Note : Instead of the magnetic snap you can use another kind
of snap, like a KAM snap for example. In that case you can
leave to apply the male part of the snap after stitching the strip
tab to the strip.

Fig. E

Sleeve Phone Pouch - Tutorial 10 / 10

Figuring the depth of a squared off bottom bag:
by Ronda Grogan

There are two (common) methods for sewing a square bottomed bag – you either cut out squares from the
bottom corners of your front and back panels before you sew, or you cut off a triangle piece after you have sewn
your two panels together.

You can easily pre-plan or adjust a bag depth using either of these two methods of cutting and sewing, but the
answer is slightly different in how to get the exact depth you are wanting.

Unfortunately, both methods require a bit of math. There will be math ahead!

Things you need to know before you start:

1) Seam allowance
2) One measurement (final depth or length of one square side)

Cutting squares from the corners of your panels:

This is one of the easiest to determine depth. The sides of the squares you cut form the diagonal depth you sew
for the sides.

The formula:
Desired Depth / 2 + seam allowance = Square Size

5” depth, 3/8” seam allowance

5 / 2 + .375 = 2 7/8” squares cut from the corners

4.5” depth, 1/2” seam allowance

4.5 / 2 + .5 = 2 3/4” squares cut from the corners

Measure squares of the desired size, using the formulas above.

In this case, we’re using 1 7/8” as our square size. (This will result in a 3 1/8” deep bag.)
Cut the squares from the bottom edges of each body panel.

Sew the side seams and bottom seams of the body panels, leaving the squares open. Then, hold the open edges
of your squares together, with the side seam and bottom seam meeting in the middle.

Your bag is now boxed in, using the cut square method!
Cutting triangle from sewn panels:
When cutting a triangle, you’re given the length of the side of the square rather than the length of the diagonal.
Because of this, you need to figure the length to measure on the square to get a desired depth. In this case, you
do not need to know your seam allowance length as you cut the seam allowance after you have sewn.

The formulas:
Formula A)​ Desired Depth = Side Measurement * ​√ 2 (square root of 2)
Formula B)​ Side Measurement = Desired Depth / √ 2 (square root of 2)

Formula A​ will help you know the depth based on a side measurement. This is helpful if you want to change a
depth, or possibly add a center divider pocket to the pattern.

Formula B​ will help you determine what the side measurement should be, based on the desired depth. This is
helpful if you know you want a 5” depth and prefer to not cut out squares from the panels.

Sewing the triangle:

Sew your body panels together on all sides. In the bottom corners, align your two pieces so the side seam and
the bottom seam meet in the middle to form a corner. Measure along the edge of one of those corners.

Mark a straight line across the corner at the given measurements. This will be your corner seam.

In this case, we are given a side seam measurement of 3.75”.

Measure along the two sides of the newly formed corner, making sure the bottom and side seams are in the
middle. Sew along that line.

If we follow Formula A, we are given 3.75” as our side measurement.

(Formula A)​ Desired Depth = Side Measurement * ​√ 2 (square root of 2)

3.75 ​* ​√ 2 = 5.3
Our outer depth should be 5.3”.

You have now boxed in a corner, using the triangle method!

Using Formula A, real world example:

To add a center divider pocket to the Ellen’s Esplanade by ChrisW, you first need to figure out what the depth
will be. You are given a measurement of 3 1/8” to measure up the sides of the formed triangle.

Formula A)​ Desired Depth = Side Measurement * ​√ 2 (square root of 2)

3.125 * ​√ 2 = 4.42” depth

For neatness sake, we’ll round up the depth to the nearest whole fraction, 4.5”. From here, we can now use the
other method to cut squares from our panels to allow us to insert a divider pocket.

As a reminder, the formula to discover the square size was:

Desired Depth / 2 + seam allowance = Square Size

4.5” desired depth, 3/8” seam allowance
(4.5 / 2) + .375 = 2 5/8” square

Cutting the 2 5/8” squares from the lining material and sewing with the appropriate seam allowance will result
in the same depth as the original instruction of measuring 3 1/8” up the side of the triangle to place our cut.

Using Formula B:
This formula works in the same manner as cutting the squares. You start with a desired depth.

Formula B)​ Side Measurement = Desired Depth / √ 2 (square root of 2)

5” depth
5 / ​√ 2 = 3.5” side measurement

6” depth
6 / √ 2 = 4.25” side measurement

You would then measure up the side of the triangle, sewing on the formed line and removing the excess fabric.
And that is how you can determine depth on a square bottomed bag!
When I learned to sew, often the needle would shove a little bit of fabric into the bobbin area, which
would grab the fabric, eating it and I’d have to wrestle it out or cut it. I finally learned to start about ¼
away from the edge of the fabrics, which eliminated that problem! Later, I realized if I mirrored that
technique at the end of a seam, I would avoid the “back up bunchies” when I reverse-stitched. Instead
of driving to the edge of the fabric and then reversing, I hit “R” ¼ inch from the edge, stitch back a few
stitches, then continue off the fabric.
 No Sagging Tote Bag Straps
This tutorial shows how to make supported straps on a tote
bag to keep your bag from giving in or sagging at the top
when carrying a heavier load
The tutorial only demonstrates how to support the straps,
you should continue to use your favorite method to
support the tote bag itself. Once I attach the straps, I
normally use foam on all sides to support the rest of my
bag.
I will be using the measurements that I use to make the
type of tote bags pictured below. The measurements given
In the tutorial are for these bags and you will need to make
adjustments for your own use.

MATERIALS NEEDED

1. 2” Cotton Webbing – My preference is the Natural

Cotton
2. Double Sided Carpet Tape
3. 2” Polyproplylene Webbing – Color of choice to match
the tote fabric
4. Faux leather vinyl for tote

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

1. Cut 2 – Natural Cotton 2” webbings 12.5” long

2. Cut 2 – Natural Cotton 2”webbings 5” long
3. Cut 2 – Polyproplyene 2” Webbing 30” long
4. Cut 4 – 2 ½” x 2 ½” squares out of the faux leather
STRAP TUTORIAL
1. Cut the Natural Cotton webbing the
width of the tote bag minus your
seam allowance. In my example the
tote front and back bag pieces are
13 ½” wide with ½” seam allowance.
I cut my cotton webbing 12 ½” long.
2. Apply the double sided carpet tape
on one side of the cotton webbing

3. Place the tapped cotton webbing on

the backside of the fabric (front and
back panels) making sure it is
positioned behind where
the straps will be sewn
In my example the tapped cotton
webbing is place 1” down from the
top and ½” in from the sides

4. Divide each of the 30” polyproplyene webbing into

thirds by marking the strap with chalk every 10”.
Then fold the middle 10 inches into half and sew it closed
 5. Mark the right side of the front and
back panels
for placement of straps. I placed
my straps 2 ¼” in ‘
from each sides and 2” down from
the top

6. Sew the straps on

Back Side Front Side

Repeat on other panel

7. Slightly clip the corners off
of each of the corners
of the 2 ½” squares.

8. Place tabs on each of the

unfinished strap ends and
sew down with a 1/8’ seam
allowance

9. Tape the 5” cotton webbing pieces on each side panel

and then use whatever support medium you prefer. I
Like to use the sew in foam and trim it out of the seam
allowance.
With the natural cotton webbing placed
behind each strap ends and across the
width of the bag’s four sides and with
the foam Interfacing my bags made
with faux Leather, vinyl, cowhide or
cork have held up for years. My
customers have been pleased and I
continue to get repeat orders from
them.
Tripp Minimalist Wallet for ID, Cards and Bills

What you will need:

1 8” x 10” piece of cork leather, marine vinyl, kraft-tex, or leather
1 3” x 3 ½“ piece of clear thick plastic
Thread for topstitching.

Tripp Minimalist Wallet was created by Jan Murry – March 2017.

Tripp Minimalist Wallet for ID, Cards and Bills
1. Print and cut out pattern pieces. The piece B has a rectangle that should be cut out as well.
This is where the plastic will be sewn in.

2. Place pattern on wrong side of fabric and trace around.

3. Cut out the pieces from your fabric. I used Kraft-tex in these pictures.

Tripp Minimalist Wallet was created by Jan Murry – March 2017.

Tripp Minimalist Wallet for ID, Cards and Bills

4. Place clear plastic to the wrong side of piece B making sure the whole is covered
completely. Topstitch an 1/8” around the opening. HINT: if you place tissue paper under
clear plastic, sews much better. Just remove the paper after stitching.

Starting and stopping

point. Step 5

Topstitching
plastic into place
for ID. Step4

Starting and stopping

point. Step 5

5. Mark corners on piece A as shown on pattern) to know where to start and stop stitching.

Tripp Minimalist Wallet was created by Jan Murry – March 2017.

Tripp Minimalist Wallet for ID, Cards and Bills

6. Place wrong side piece B to the right side of piece A topstitch the two pieces together
between the dots. It is easiest to clip together on the opposite side before stitching to hold
in place.

Step 6

Topstitching
between the
dots.

7. Fold in half and clap together

Tripp Minimalist Wallet was created by Jan Murry – March 2017.

Tripp Minimalist Wallet for ID, Cards and Bills

8. Topstitch from the ending of the previous topstitching around three sides to the other
topstitching.

9. You should have an opening where piece A is folded together for your folded money.

Tripp Minimalist Wallet was created by Jan Murry – March 2017.

Tripp Minimalist Wallet for ID, Cards and Bills

Cut
out for
ID

Tripp Minimalist Wallet was created by Jan Murry – March 2017.

 March 3, 2017
Creative Bag Making
Technique and Tips by Rita Faye Nickels

I consider this a Technique I use in My Bag

Making.
I use a paint program, like Paint Shop Pro or
Photoshop to make my shapes and even patterns
for bag making.
The shapes are great for appliqueing onto your
bag if you so choose.

I realize this is not for everyone but I thought it

would be neat to share in case someone else might
find it of Value. It has been to me.

A Zipper Box

Bear made from Circles and Shapes

It is great for Pockets, Flaps, Connectors and so forth.
It is even good to make your images then have them
digitized, Which I have done.
The programs are relatively inexpensive and so much
fun to use. There are free ones out there as well .

Thank You.
 Zipper Closing of Bags

I always make sure I have zipper closings on all my

bags. I even add them to diaper bags that have a flap
closing. I usually add a back zipper pocket also.
When Closing the top, I use the bottom pattern and
make two. I cut it in half and have the measurements
I need for the top. If you sew it all the way around
four sides id could be heard to get into. I like to use a
longer zipper and finish the ends of the top and just
sew the sides onto the bag. When sewing in the
lining you will catch the sides and leave the ends
free.. Then you can open the bag a little wider and
see inside.
 The Zipper Pouch Tutorial:
Chose a fabric:
Choose a fabric 
that meets the end 
needs of the 
finished product. 
This one is a 
vintage glitter 
vinyl. 

Choosing a
Shape
This is my current
zipper pouch, I
wanted a different
one just slightly
larger, and
therefore I used
the current one as
a spring board.

Vinyl Being Cut

After choosing your fabric and deciding your size (Make sure to add seam allowance) given these points, choose a
zipper that is longer than
the fabric is wide so you
can in fact get that zipper
pull out of the way.
Cutting and Construction:

Add double sided tape to each edge where the zipper shall reside.
Seemingly, the 1/8” seems to work best. Some brands are
specifically designed for sewing, and I’ve been told they don’t make
the needle sticky and gummed up, but if the one you choose does,
simply use alcohol prep pads available in any pharmacy. In brief,
the alcohol will clean the gummy off nicely (works on finger
bandage adhesive, and tape residue on your machine bed as well).
There are two basic ways to clean the needle, one is to open the package
and use the enclosed swab, wiping down the needle the other is my lazy way
and just remove the thread from the needle and sew right through the
package. Warning, sewing through the package may dull the needle, but so
will sewing vinyl, PUL, thick layers, thick fabrics never mind, sewing dulls the
needle.

First, remove the adhesive

backing from one side only
and place the zipper face
down on the right side of
fabric making sure the zipper pull goes beyond the edge of the
fabric and using a zipper foot, stitch with a longer stitch.

On my machine a 4.0 works well.

Zipper First Half Being Stitched

Also, remove the adhesive backing from the other side and again, place the
zipper face down on the right side of the fabric, furthermore, making absolutely sure that the edges of the fabric line
up evenly. Stitch as before.
Generally speaking, you should have
something that looks like this as shown
here:
Let’s get to top stitching this puppy!

This fabric is really sticky, so I choose to use paper under the

foot. The tissue paper for gift wrapping works really great to say
nothing of the fact the day after Christmas the store practically
pays you to take it home it’s so cheap!
Unless you happen to have a Teflon zipper foot, something is
necessary to make that zipper foot slide over the sticky
fabrics. So good old fashioned office supply tape works great! A
little dab’ll do ya!
In a like manner, I’ve heard waxing the bottom of the foot works,
but I’ve never tried it.
Remember the stitch length!
As can be seen, increase your stitch length for the top stitching.
In addition you can use a decorative or heavy thread. After all, it’s
your project! Even with the paper under coupled with the tape on
top, I still stitched very slowly not to mention keeping a bit of
pressure on the fabric to keep it feeding evenly.
Set a longer stitch length

The paper should tear away fairly clean.

At this point, the faint of heart may just choose to make that a
top zip, and that’s okay with me! It’s your project!
Zip that zip and you should have a tube.

The size of the project is the best way to decide how tall to make the “top” according to aesthetics, and the “Cause I
wanna” factor. There is no right or wrong, just make sure the sides are comparatively even. Of course, close is
good enough!
Decisions Decisions: On this blue makeup pouch I decided on 1” as can be seen, it is a convenient measurement
on my cutting mat, as shown below.
1 inch mark on the cutting mat, pouch taped down with regular office tape.

Tape is my friend.
Again with the tape you say! YES! As a matter of fact, tape is wonderful with these fabrics that can’t be pinned!
What also works well is wonder clips, binder clips, hair clips, bulldog clips or potato clips, no wait, that’s potato
chips! They don’t work, but I must be hungry! In the long run, anything that pinches will work in a pinch!
The pouch was taped to the mat (wrong side out) on one side whilst I made sure the other side was even Steven in
the same way.

Sewing pouch shut, be sure zipper is open!

After the two top sides were taped to the mat, next the tape was folded over the top to hold it in place whilst sewing
then the zipper was opened most of the way and wonder clips were used to hold the sides shut as shown above.
Remember the stitch length!
 Moved the stitch length back to
4.0 and carefully stitch down one side.
All is not lost
If you forgot to unzip, it’s not too late! Just unzip before you sew the second side!
Sew up the other side, then trim the excess zipper (you might want to use paper scissors for this, not your good
fabric scissors or mom will be mad!) clip the corners next turn right side out and you are finished.

Use cheap or paper

scissors to cut zipper
Growl, the reflection of the light looks like a horror film monster. Growl!
Not only slightly taller, and slightly wider, but a nice, clean, pretty zipper! Easy Peasy! (For the most part!)

New compared to old pouch

God Bless and keep that machine oiled!

Rochelle
 
 ZIP POCKET WITH A WINDOW TRIM TUTORIAL
by Adona Flores

Adding a window trim to a zip pocket is a great way to level up the perceived
value of your bags. It shows how much attention to detail you give into making
a handbag.
This is nothing more than an appliqué with a cut out hole in the middle that is
stitched on to the already prepped zipper window on the main piece.

So lets get started….

1. Make zipper window on the main piece.

2. Add zipper tape from behind the window (wrong side of the main panel)
using double-sided tape. Set aside.
1. Make the window trim master pattern.

i. Start out by drawing the zipper window. It should be of the same

measurement as the zipper window made for the pocket. Then
add the width of the border.

i. Cut pattern to finish or master size.

2. This pattern may be used as a template for tracing it directly onto vinyl
or leather. Cut.

Window trims made out of fabric can be easily made by using a stay that
was cut out from the master pattern. Bontex, Peltex, Kraftex are
materials that may be used as a stay.

i. Trace master pattern on a piece of Peltex, cut.

ii. Cut the fabric wide enough to be able to wrap the stay that
you have just made.
iii. Glue the stay onto the wrong side of the fabric.
iv. Cut the fabric in the window section in the same manner as
you would do in a regular zipper window.
 v. Apply glue to the whole surface of stay and fabric.
vi. Turn fabric onto stay.

3. Affix prepped trim to zipper window on main piece. Top stitch on the
outer edges of the pocket trim.
 4. Attach pocket.

i. Start by attaching the pocket from the bottom edge of the

zipper window.

ii. Top stitch bottom edge of zipper window. Turn pocket piece down
so that the right side is face up. Fold pocket towards the top of the
main piece. Secure it with tape.
iii. Top stitch the remaining sides of the zipper window.
iv. Stitch sides of pocket.

Voila! The pocket is finished.

In the Creative Bag Making Facebook Group a new hash tag #CBMTIP2017 was created during
the month of March and members contributed using the same tag. Here is the consolidation
of all the tips. Thank you to everyone who shared some really AWESOME tips!

A
Acrylic Rulers to Cut With
Mary Warman
If you use Acrylic Rulers to cut with... put a bright piece of tape on the corner where the 1"
marks come together so you always know where you are measuring from.

Add Ribbon to Recessed Zipper

Maria A Vazquez
Sometimes my zippers can be a bit stiff so hard to pull when making a recessed zipper. My tip is
to add a piece of ribbon to the opening end so you have something to hold onto if it needs a
tug.

Add Your Bottom Base after You Turn Your Bag

Sandra Hoyt
One thing I've been experimenting with is to not put the Peltex bottom in a bag until after I've
turned it. This helps with making the turning of the bag much easier. I will just make a base with
Peltex (maybe two pieces sew together or sewn with some scrap vinyl or encased in fabric),
then insert it through the hole left in the lining or pocket for turning. Once placed and the bag
has contents in it, it doesn't seem to go anywhere so I'm not worried about it slipping much. Of
course, this doesn't work if you are putting in purse feet or there are other features of the base
that need that Peltex in there during construction. Just an idea to consider.
Artist’s Unprimed Canvas for Interfacing
Gillian Woronko
Use artist's unprimed canvas (the heavier weight) for inside flaps of some bags (messenger bags
for example) instead of 71F Peltex. It gives the flap body and weight without it being too stiff. I
baste it in place with a small amount of adhesive and cut it just inside the seam so it does not
create bulk in the seam.

Ask for Scraps from Interior Design Shops

Verna Currie Groger
I get literally car loads of gorgeous free fabric from interior design shops. They love giving their
scraps (including pieces as large as 5 yds.) and samples away - they go in the trash otherwise. I
used free velvet and embroidered drapery fabric to make a Summit backpack and in an earlier
post you can see a table runner and topper set that was made with linen samples.

B
Birthing Technique
Sandra Hoyt
Most patterns where you are turning the bag tell you to place the exterior of the bag inside the
interior of the bag, with right sides together, as the step to sew the two parts together before
birthing or turning out. This has never quite made sense to me as you're usually sewing the
lining slightly smaller and therefore, you are trying to fit the larger exterior into the smaller
interior. Also, if your exterior has used materials other than cotton, or has a Peltex base, it will
be hard to scrunch it down in there. But really there's no need for this.
Instead, have the exterior wrong-side-out, the interior right-side-out, and place the interior
inside the exterior and sew your bag together. As long as you have the right sides together, it
will all work out fine. Plus, you can check the fit of the interior fairly easily this way. Here is a
picture of a Harriet I just finished to show you what I mean (exterior turned wrong-side-out,
with the interior sticking up out of the top). And of course, a picture of the finished bag just
because!
Bubble Wrap
Kelley Rao
Save that bubble wrap. Not only to re-use when you ship out one of your stunning bags, but
insert it into your bag before taking photos. Bags photograph better with some "guts."

C
Card Slots Just Right? Test With Expired Credit Cards
Vernita Dasher Salinas
I keep a stack of old cards to try out card slots and see how wallets fit with cards in them.

Carry What You Make

Kelley Rao
Carry what you make with you! Brought my new cork Pretty Purselet to a luncheon, left with an
order.
Check the Files, Please
Kelley Rao
There is a treasure trove of information in the Video and Files links in this group. We
add/update it often, so it's a good idea to check out these files periodically. It seems to work
best on a desktop type computer, however.

Check Your Hardware

Kelley Rao
Before you install any hardware on your bag, even a simple zipper, make sure it is functional
and that you have ALL the parts needed to make it work. Before you cut into your fabric or glue
your chosen hardware permanently in place, be sure you have the hardware in the correct
direction (ask me how I know).

Clematis Vinyl Sewing Tip

Kelley Rao
When making the popular (and free) Clematis pattern, don't attach the vinyl bottoms (assuming
you're using them) until after you've inserted the zipper. That way you can do all your pressing
without fear of melting the vinyl.

Clover Bias Tape Maker #50 Expedites Strap Making

Kelley Rao
I was going to make a written tutorial on this, but it's mostly been done a few times so I am
going to just share one extra tip!
When you are making double sided straps for your bags (either for decorative reasons or trying
to keep the bulk down), for the fabric side, get out your trusty Clover Bias Tape Maker #50 to
make either 1" (4" strip or 1-1/2" strap) or 3/4" (3" strip or 1" strap) of interfaced fabric. Saves
time and reduces chance of burning fingers.

Conquering Thick Seams on a Domestic Machine

Kate Maryon
I sew on a domestic sewing machine and sometimes the layers get thick; especially doing flaps
on pockets and straps. I figured out today that to get that thickest part under the sewing foot to
drop the feed dogs and get it in place then lift the feed dogs again. It gives just enough room.

Continuous Bias Strip

Kelli Hall
How to make a strip of continuous bias without having to cut multiple strips:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDPlgSCLDMM
Craft Paper Cutter for Straight Cutting Lines on Patterns
Monica Santos
Making a small investment in a craft paper cutter can save your hands and keep your lines
straight when cutting and piecing PDF patterns.

Cut on the Fold

Carissa MacNaught
When I use pattern pieces that say "cut on fold" I print them twice and tape together. And if
there are markings for handles or a magnetic snap or you need to find the center of the piece I
use a hole-punch in a small diameter to mark those areas and then on my fabric I just poke my
pencil through the hole to mark. Now you won't have any weird creases to try and press out.
Cut on the Fold? Cut Two Instead
Trisha Wells
When printing pattern pieces with markings that are cut on the fold, print two. One normally
and one flipped horizontally so the markings are all in the same side of the pattern.

Cut Your Pattern Pieces out of Med. Wt. Non-Fusible

Interfacing
Linda Lai
One other tip. I make a lot of bags from commercial patterns and got a Vogue pattern today. I
cut the pattern pieces out of medium weight non-fusible interfacing and it lasts forever. You
will never get the pieces back into the original envelope so I put them in an 8 1/2 x 11 plastic
envelope.
Cutting Leather
Mucilia Macon
When cutting real leather, I use a sharp box cutter. I have pretty bad arthritis (especially when
it's cold) so my wrists hate me when I use the rotary cutter. I find that the box cutter gives me
control and the ability to pretty much slice the leather

Cutting the Perfect Zipper Welt

Elizabeth Widmayer
When you make a zipper pocket and it's time to start a hole to cut open the center line, fold
your pocket assembly exactly in half and make a small snip on the folded marked line with your
scissors. I learned this tip when I made the Corcoran bag from Hold it Right There patterns
by Suzanna Marosi McKeon. I think this tip is pure genius - so much easier and neater than
trying to punch a hole through with my seam ripper!
Also, when cutting to the corners of the little triangles, I always turn the assembly over and
check to make sure I've cut all the way up to the stitched corners on BOTH fabric pieces.

D
Don’t Toss Your Old Iron… Yet!
Helene Janse Van Rensburg
Well, I had a brainwave moment the other day. My steam iron kept on short-circuiting the
electricity because somewhere the iron now had a leak. I had to buy a new one. But this time I
kept the old one for no-steam pressing like for instance certain interfacing. Tell me I'm the first
one that thought of this?!
E
Embroider First, Then Cut
Belinda Cook
I always embroider designs on material before cutting it out that way I can try different
positions on placement.

F
Fabric Matching Tip
Sally Field-Leal
To help select matching and contrasting fabric, lay out a wide length of your main fabric close
to your possible choices. Place zips and hardware nearby too. It helps visually to see the colors
and patterns of the main material near to the available selections. Of course, if nothing catches
your eye, fabric shopping will be on the cards!!!!

Favorite Cosmetic Bag

Nancy Shemiershime
One of my favorite little cosmetic bags I love to do and it is easy too is this pattern. Intro to
Improv Zip Pouches PDF Sewing Pattern | Zipper Pouch with Zipper Pull to use for Cosmetics
Makeup Bag or Storage Case Pattern. It’s an older pattern one but very well written and easy to
do, even for stroke victims like me.
Flat Washers – An Inexpensive Trick to Hold Your Purse Feet
Meccala Draper
Use flat washers to hold purse feet in place. It helps keep them from ever slipping through the
hole.

Flattening Your Vinyl Handles

Ruth Lunde
When I have to glue vinyl straps like handles together and need a place to put them to dry and
stay together I put them in my steam press over night, they lay flat and look great in the
morning. Credit goes to my sister Linda for the idea.

Frey Check. Check!

Terri Doney
Although I learned a new way to attach a zipper pull to the tape with a fork I also add a dab of
"Frey Check" prior to attaching the zipper pull to keep it from the annoying fraying it wants to
do. I also add a dab of it when I have made the small slits in material to attach the certain metal
closures for added strength.

Fusing Tip
Laura Middleton
Just a little tip I do to make my life a bit easier when fusing. When you’re fusing Pellon of any
sort onto your fabric spray a little starch w a drop or two of lavender essential oils in it and
spray onto your Pellon. When you are pressing it sets the fusible a whole lot nicer plus you get a
light beautiful scent. It also makes your room smell so nice!
Fussy Cutting
Peggy Hilmer Gibson
I could not post 3 pics without starting another post about fussy cutting. I needed to fussy cut
today to center an embroidery design, I traced my pattern onto another piece of paper and
then cut it out and cut out the center of the paper leaving seam allowance distance. Then I
could audition until I was happy with the placement.

G
Give New Life to Your Seam Ripper
Sally Field-Leal
Hubby just gave me a set of micro files so I can sharpen my dull un-picker and give it a new
lease on life!
H
Heavy Manila File Folders to Trace Pattern Pieces on
Patti Graper
When I get a new pattern I used to always cut it on oak tag paper for my pattern pieces.
However, I run our vet clinic and I had about 500 old file folders. Some that look new. I found
that heavy file folders make the best pattern pieces. You can lay on the fold when possible and
then it folds up so nicely. I only now use my oak tag paper for huge patterns. Not only that, you
can use a file to mark your pattern and keep everything tidy. Also a box of heavy file folders are
cheaper than the oak tag paper.
I
Improv Sticky Mat
Deborah Nicole
Last night I was sitting down to tape some pattern pieces together and was wishing I had a
sticky mat like one of those Cricut mats to keep the paper from shifting as I taped.
I came up with the idea of taking that Glad Wrap Stick and Seal. Place it sticky side up and you
can use something like painters tape to affix it to your work surface. (I'm thinking of getting
some dollar store cutting boards to keep some affixed to).
Place your pattern pieces on the sticky wrap and tape without them shifting! Once taped, just
peel the pattern piece up and you're good to go.
I used some wrap without taping it down to my work surface last night and it still worked
beautifully.

Inexpensive Plastic Canvas – A Great Bottom Stabilizer

Amber Williams
Plastic canvas makes really great bag bottom stabilizer. I put a little Fabritac on mine and
carefully insert it through the turning hole or pocket. Let dry for a few minutes, then sew up the
hole. You can double stack it for more structure. You get 12 pieces for about $4 with a coupon
at JoAnn.

Insul-Bright Instead of Foam

Gillian Woronko
Use Insul-Bright instead of foam or felt for small pouches or purses. Not as rigid as foam but it's
lovely to sew and gives the project a nice finish. It's also insulating so it's perfect for cosmetic
bags or first aid pouches carrying epi-pens for example.
Iron Box Tip
Brenda Ellendson
I am pretty messy when using fusible stuff and seem to need to clean my iron AND wash my
ironing board and steam press covers often. I have tried this twice now...I wash them in HOT
water on the sanitary cycle, then air dry. Once completely dry I take a clean Scotch-brite and
rub/sand the residue off of the areas where any glue stuff remains on the cloth cover. Like I
said, I have tried it only 2x, but it has helped a ton. Also, savaged my pressing cloth after fusing
SF101 to it ( ). I use Rowenta Iron Cleaning Kit on my iron and steam press.

Iron Without Ironing – The Steam Tip

Carissa MacNaught
If you ever need to press Peltex/stiff stabilizer in the bottom of your bag or even glitter vinyl or
something that can't get direct heat, use this tip. Steam the crap out of your ironing board and
then put the bag/other item on the steamed part of the board and press it flat with your hands
(use oven mitts to protect your hands if need be).

K
Keep Your Industrial Machine Clean
Sue Taghioff
These little cans of compressed air you can get from computer shops are great for blowing fluff
out from your Industrial machines.
Keep Your Clear Vinyl Clear
Cherie Matthys
When using clear vinyl for ID pockets and pockets in toiletry bags and such, don't label the
pieces with a sticky note. The residue is very difficult to remove. Use a wonder clip or binder
clip to hold the label.
I just learned this the hard way on the Grace Toiletry Bag by RLR Creations.

Kraftex to Beef up Your Strap Handles

Lilly R. Romero
I usually use Kraftex inside my vinyl straps. It serves 2 purposes, one it beefs them up so the
vinyl doesn't stretch and two it makes them stand up on their own. I learned this tip from
someone else but since I have used it and I love my straps. I also cut the Kraftex 1/8 smaller
than the final with of my strap and I use double sided tape to secure it in place. Also leave a
little space in between the folds of the vinyl so they fold nicely.
L
Labeling Pattern Pieces
Sandy Norton
One more thing that I do now. The designer of the Rosy clutch identifies each pattern piece
with a letter if the alphabet. I really liked it so now I'm labeling each pattern piece of other
patterns the same way. So when I put the name on the piece of tape I also add the letter. (Can
you telling have issues with getting pattern pieces confused?)

Laminate Flooring Foam Instead of Foam

D'Anna Balliett
I use the laminate flooring foam underlayment for the foam stabilizer in my bags...it comes in
MANY options (I use the white foam found at Lowe's- others use the backed black one)
$30 buys 1000 square feet. Waaaay cheaper than even wholesale pricing of the name brands
sold in the sewing industry...and in my opinion...just as viable.

Laminate Your Pattern Pieces

Lucie Cruickshank
I just laminated my pattern pieces! Not sure if anyone else has already posted this but the idea
just occurred to me!
Leftover Interfacing
Angela Lowell Leger Trenholm
I use leftover, smaller strips of fusible interfacing to fuse non-fusible foam to the fabric along
the edges where the foam seam allowance gets cut away.

Loose Threads be Gone

Gwen Lockwood
I put a piece of the lint roller paper beside my sewing machine - that way as I cut off the thread
ends they are stuck in one place. At the end of sewing I just unstick the paper from my table
and no loose threads to pick up!!
Lunch Bag (Lola) Upsized
Pam O’Flynn
Lola by Swoon Patterns. Upsize her to 120% and she is the perfect lunch bag when lined with
laminated cotton and insulated with Insul-Brite!

M
Magnetic Snap Tip
Aafke Sijen-Jongsma
You know you have to reinforce the place where you put your magnet right? And like me, most
will know what to do next and start basting/gluing or even sewing ahead with a quick glance at
the pattern. Crap, forgot to place the magnet and reinforce the placing.
Now, Kraftex is hard to come by and can be pretty expensive here in Europe. So, I saved every
little scrap. Turns out these scraps are perfect for a quick magnet install! Put a bit of glue
behind it if you have to, but no more ironing in sometimes hard to reach places.

Make a Muslin Test Bag First

Janet Rigler
I've recently learned that I should make a "muslin" from each new bag pattern using some
cheap fabric to find all the gotchas BEFORE I cut into the beautiful expensive fabric I ordered
special for the bag. This was an expensive lesson to learn the hard way.
N
New Turn on Handles
Amy Flannery Skaar
When making a bag that will have an exposed (aka not sandwiched between lining) take the
'bias folded' strap and turn the ends 'inside out' and sew. Trim on an angle and turn with
seamed end to the outside. Refold as normal and sew. When I do this I generally stop my
interfacing right next to the spot I seam the end so there are less layers when attaching and the
interface ledge gives a nice clean end. This was a tip I found somewhere on line ages ago. Wish I
could credit. For the visual learners, my drawing:

No Double Sided Tape?

Ashley Corrine Clary
No worries use a million clips!!

No Run Away Snips with Rubber Bands

Chia Yang Williams
I'm a little late to the party, but here is my tip. Actually, my mom's tip. On her industrial
machine, she would often "tie" a string of rubber bands to one of the legs and attach her snips
to them. This keeps them from running away.
O
Old Handbags Great to Practice your Sewing Techniques on
Sally Field-Leal
Keep old handbags to practice your sewing techniques on (especially the tricky sections, like the
thick parts and topstitching) until you are ready to move onto your good materials. It helps to
use a contrasting stitch color so you can easily see your progress. This tip would also be
especially useful when you get a new machine and need to familiarize yourself with its
capabilities.

P
Pattern Scaling Mishaps?
Gillian Woronko
If I print out a pattern and forget to check the scale and it comes out smaller (e.g. typically 91%)
then I keep the pages and mark each pattern piece with that percentage. I reprint and make
sure to print out the pattern at 100% and mark all those pieces at 100%. Then if I want to make
a bag or wallet smaller, I have already got a smaller size printed.
Pattern Testing Tip
Sue Taghioff
Getting testers for your new pattern - get the finished items tested by consumers. How the
finished article works is just as important. The amount of wallet patterns I've bought that just
don't work well - when you're in a shop trying to take money or a card out of it. Or bags that
you can't get your hand in easily.

Perfect Stop/Start Marking Points

Amanda Parrish
When you need a start and stop point, double the clips and put the ones closest to the gap you
need to leave upside down! I do this so I make sure I remember to not close up a turning hole.

Perfect Zipper Lengths

Peggy Hilmer Gibson
I love the Clematis bag by Blue Calla. Many times, I either enlarge or reduce the size depending
on requests. I cut these plastic strips and marked them accordingly for the exact length of
zipper to cut so I am not measuring every time.
Pin Selvage Edges/Sides
Monica Santos
When ironing large pieces, I pin the selvage edges and sides to help get my fabric square and
keep it that way.

Precision Sewing of Strap Connectors

Kelley Rao
I forget exactly where I learned this tip.
When you are sewing strap connectors, your needle may not always end in the perfect position
once you come across the top of the hardware. Just go as far as is correct, then lift your
pressure foot and needle, and move it backwards a little on the same stitch line. Turn the
connector and proceed down the other side. You may need to hand crank any areas that your
foot is on or near the hardware.
It takes practice but over time, you will be making beautiful connectors! Mine, clearly, are a
WIP!

Pressing Tips
Anne Verberckmoes
Pressing tips to avoid bubbling when adhering interfacings.
Always steam press your cotton fabrics first and let them cool before adhering SF101. This will
let the fabric size (shrink) if it needs too. Keep this in mind if you want a precise cut (in other
words, size a piece of fabric and THEN cut out). After you fuse SF101, flip over and give a quick
press. Keep iron temp down; no higher than Wool setting. Let fabric cool before handling
further.
When fusing fleece, fuse to a sized pattern piece that has SF101 on it; reduce heat further to
get a nice fuse without bubbles.
Print, Piece Pattern Pieces to avoid “on the fold”
Peggy Hilmer Gibson
Another favorite pattern of mine is the Summit by Cloudsplitter. I have made several and did
something with the pattern to make it easier for me to use repeatedly.
Since I make them with leather, I first print extra pattern pieces and tape them together so I
don't have to lay them on the fold. If the pieces did not come lettered/numbered, I do that- it's
just easier for me to refer to them that way.
Then I glue-stick them to a poster board. The thickness of the poster board makes it easier to
trace onto the leather hide.
For pieces where a pattern is not provided (pockets, tabs, etc.), I cut templates out of the
poster board and write on them what they are.
For pieces where just measuring the piece is more logical (card slots), I just make notes on a
small piece of poster board.
Then I punch a hole in each piece and save them all on a loose-leaf ring and hang them on a bar
with old fashioned shower curtain rings.

Production Line D-Ring Connectors

Kylie Simonton
We are creeping into craft show season. I'm still working on 18 ID wallets and they all need
connector tabs for D-rings. Instead of cutting out multiple squares of interfacing for each piece,
I cut one long strip of interfacing and treated it the same as I would a purse strap. Folded it and
pressed nice and neat and then fed that whole big strip of connector pieces through my
machine like normal. Sewed down both sides and then cut carefully in between each one!
Voila! Same a ton of time!
Q
Quick Handle Cutting Using Rules
Kelley Rao
Invest in a set of 2", 3" and 4" rulers (36" long) to expedite cutting straps (especially in vinyl or
leather).

Quick Ironing Station

Vernita Dasher Salinas
Cover a board with some wool batting or even an old towel and a scrap of ironing board fabric
or muslin to use beside your steam press to iron those spots where you just can't use the steam
press.
R
Recycle Muslin Sheets
Rita Faye Nickels
I use old sheets for muslin instead of buying new muslin, also used curtains etc. After washing
them up, of course.

Retractable Key Chain to Keep Your Snips Handy

Angela Lowell Leger Trenholm
I saw another tip and remembered one I've used for years. I attach thread snips, thread
scissors, etc. to every sewing station via a retractable key chain that is attached to the table, or
sewing machine.

Rivet With Long Post? Add Some Padding!

Ashley Corrine Clary
I wanted to use these rivets on the outside of this bag but the post is way too long so I added
tiny scraps of Peltex to the back and it's perfect!!
Rolling Notions Cart from Ikea
Lesley Platt
Notions cart. This handy rolling cart is from Ikea, $29.99. Black, Beige or Red. Got mine 6
months ago and use it all the time. Love that it can go from room to room, machine to machine
with me. Money well spent.

S
SF101 Pocket Tip
Pat DeVore
If your bag has pieces or pockets inserted for detail, stitch the pieces together before adding
fusible stabilizer such as SF101. This cuts down on bulk in the seams and gives a nice smooth
surface between the exterior and lining. And it is easier to fuse one piece rather than several
small pieces!

Save Your Patterns to iCloud or Dropbox

Amber Williams
If you haven't already, add all of your patterns to iCloud Drive or Dropbox and then make sure
you have access on your smart phone. That way, you can take your patterns everywhere! I use
this a lot when I have just a quick question about a pattern and I'm feeling too lazy to start up
my laptop.

Saving Notes on Facebook

Verna Currie Groger
For information junkies like myself, Evernote is a huge timesaver. Not only can you save web
pages and pdf's easily, but you can also save FB posts that contain helpful info and everything is
accessible from wherever you are, just a log in away! I purchased Evernote two or three years
ago and now have over 7,000 saved pages, categorized.
When I have a bunch of posts in my FB Saved area, I open each one to a new tab and save them
to appropriate categories. I add extra info at the top, under the title that I don't want to forget.
When I need to do a new thing, like put in a twist lock, I just look in the appropriate category
(Bag Fasteners would be in that case), pick out a good tutorial and print it out. The Evernote
search tool has improved over the time I've been using the software.
It's free if you aren't an information hog like myself. I pay $35 a year for the service and
consider it totally worth it.

Scotch Guard Bags

Margaret Courtney
Not sure if this was given but I spray all my fabric bags with Scotch-Guard inside and out. This
really helps to keep them clean and helps with stains if you wash the bags. Most of the time you
can just spot clean. It does not make any changes to the fabric. Only thing is you NEED to spray
outside or in a well-ventilated area and spray at least 2+ light sprays with drying in between. I
even spray all my designer fabric purses.

Sewing a Welt Zipper? Don’t Box Me In!

Carissa MacNaught
I've been using this tip for about 2 years and I read it in a blog somewhere so I don't know who
to credit. When sewing the box for a zippered pocket, instead of sewing the box only sew 2
parallel lines (top & bottom). Do not sew on the ends. And cut like you normally would with the
ends in an arrow shape on both sides. Then you don't get crazy puckering on the corners of
your zipper and it lays better when you sew the zipper on.
Edited to add a link that Gena Cunha had posted in the comments showing this tip in a welt
pocket tutorial. Obviously, just use the video up until he starts showing the welt pocket process
(which is also awesome). https://youtu.be/6MOuOLkLqQM

Sewing with Foam? Flatten Those Edges

Marge Lange
When you are using foam interfacing, sew the edges which will flatten the edge to make it
easier to sew seams. I have added a photo of the difference in thickness before and after.
Before foam is 1/4" thick, after the foam is 1/16" thick.
Shiny Penny Tip
Veronica Malvaez Isaac
If you want that pretty penny to sparkle (the one you put in the customer's new handbag, etc.),
soak them in a mixture of 1 tsp salt to 1/4 c vinegar overnight and then scrub with a soft
toothbrush and rinse. [side note: soaking penny in ketchup also works]

Shipping Your Bags

Kelley Rao
When the weather is nice, I don't mind a stroll to the nearby post office to ship a package. But
when it starts hitting 100 degrees and over, no thank you! That's why I love my own (free)
account with USPS! Print labels, schedule pickups, get free supplies. It's such a nice
convenience: www.USPS.com

Small Piping for an Accent

Laurel Etheridge-Willis
To make small piping just for an accent, I use Mason Line bought at Lowes or Walmart. Each
spool is about 6.00 and lasts forever. They come in different thicknesses, anywhere from 1/16
to 1/4”. Polyester.
Stem Stitch – Try it!
Linda Lai
I never use a straight stitch for making bags or clothing. I use the stem stitch that reinforces the
seams; then I finish all the seams and I give a 100% guarantee that my bag or straps won't come
apart.

Stick-On Thread Clippers for Industrial Machines

Carissa Vance
I just added this stick-on cutter to my industrial machine! It works well with Tex 80 and 92
weight thread. I just started using it, so I can't attest to the longevity of it. I bought off Amazon.

Strap Tutorial
Micaela Davison
How to make straps with vinyl and fabric: https://youtu.be/S1_M8ATl7Mk

Stuff Your Bags before Pressing/Photographing

Elizabeth Widmayer
When I'm ready to give my bag its final press, I stuff it with towels (size of towels depends on
the size of the bag). It gives the bag sufficient firmness to more easily press and steam the
fabric parts of the bag. Then I leave the towels in the bag for a day or two to help form the
shape of the bag. I also use the towels in the bags for taking pictures, because I agree with
Kelley, the pictures look better when the bags have some guts in them.
Super Easy Faux Leather Wallet Tutorial
Sumathi Gowthaman
Super Easy faux leather wallet tutorial by Shruti Rohit Dandekar!!
http://www.13woodhouseroad.com/2016/09/super-easy-wallet-tutorial.html?m=1

T
Teflon Foot Not Working? Try Glad Press n Seal!
Carissa MacNaught
When your Teflon foot just won't do the job use Glad Press 'n Seal on your sticky vinyl or faux
leather. I pull off about 2" and lay it on the edge that needs topstitching and when I'm done I
just peel it on the stitch line and it comes right off. That way you can see your topstitching!

That Extra Touch – Put a Penny in Your Purse

Kelley Rao
Put a penny in the pocket of every hand bag/wallet you make before you gift/sell, etc. It shows
you thought of every last detail -- and it's lucky!

Threads A Problem? Use a (new!) Toilet Bowl Cleaner

Laura Middleton
For me, I have carpet in my sewing room, but under my chair I have a plastic mat. Ever get tired
of running the vacuum and all that thread rolling around the belt and then you got to cut it off.
Do not worry no more. Go to the Dollar Store or your local Department store and buy a new
toilet brush. After your done sewing take the brush and rub your carpet the bristles on the
brush catch your threads and not the belt roller on your vacuum. Take a lint roller and then go
around the brush and toss in trash. *warning don't let your grandchildren see this, mine used it
today to clean with

Thread Nets
Peggy Hilmer Gibson
You know how those large/huge spools of thread never have a slot for the end? Check your
local florist! The larger blooms they get are shipped with protective nets on them so they don't
lose their petals in shipment. These nets get tossed. Ask them to save you some! My sis works
for a florist! The net holds the end in tight and keeps the thread from unraveling.
Top Stitching with Two Threads
Betty Hoyle-Wind
My tip is to use 2 thread feeds into the one needle for topstitching, rather than using a heavier,
topstitching thread. It's so much easier-- and cheaper--than stocking 2 different threads and
trying to keep tabs on both. To say nothing about my auto-threader refusing to operate on the
TS thread when it works flawlessly with normal thread. Now I admit that you must hand thread
the 2nd thread into the needle, but it's so much easier to thread a normal thread than the
heavier one. It's also fun to use 2 different colors. And when you're done with the TS, you can
simply cut one thread and remove the spool, then continue with just one. The end result is
definitely a nice looking topstitch!

Trimming Seams with Vinyl

Marilyn Redmond
When I trim my seams, especially when using vinyl, I like to leave the top inch or so untrimmed.
The seam can be then opened flat, and it's much easier to sew across because there's no
narrow bump.

U
Upholsterer’s Secret
Lilly Pelletier
My hubby who is an upholsterer taught me a secret...when sewing leather or vinyl use ordinary
staples to hold the pieces together especially around curves...make for easier sewing.
Use a Lighter to Seal Leather Edges
Rebekah Harris
When using raw leather in a project and it doesn't cut as cleanly as you would like, you can use
a lighter to singe off the little fibers. Just hold the lighter close to the leather for a few seconds
and it will burn the little fibers off. Make sure you don't hold it there too long or it could cause
your leather to warp.

Use a Page Holder to Keep your Pattern Instructions in Place

Jan Sanders Murry
To help me when cutting out a pattern and with the instructions, I use the page holder and the
slide marker so I know where I am. It also helps to keep my page from falling or getting in the
way. I got mine at an office supply store. I love how it stands up so I only have to glance over at
it when working on each step.
Use a Temporary Basting Spray to Adhere Stabilizers
D’Anna Balliett
One of my biggest time saving tips...I strongly dislike basting and trying make my shell and lining
pieces perfectly align with stabilizers. I use the temporary basting spray to adhere all of my
stabilizers to my bag pieces.
It saves so much time by cutting out the time it takes to:
1. Basting or ironing to adhere stabilizer
2. Line up pieces perfectly (ocd)
3. Tracing and cutting stabilizers (because I can just spray my shell or lining piece and then
lay on stabilizer of choice then cut. So the only time I have to cut or trace stabilizer
separately is if it is smaller than its partner piece.)
4. I've also found it saves stabilizer in the long run

Use Sunbrella Binding for Extra Sturdy Straps

Angela Lowell Leger Trenholm
Quite pleased with the finish and stability of these straps. I've seen similar, but have never seen
the Sunbrella binding used, or anything similar. Twill tape would be another option.
Sunbrella binding 1" wide as the backing/stabilizer. It is extremely stable, with no stretch.
The vinyl is single fold to center, with the ends folded in 1/4", with top stitching all the way
around to complete the rectangle. Then top stitching the binding down from the end of the
strap, on one side of the binding edge, to the other end of the strap, then top. Stitching the
other side. Fold over ends into swivel clips and top stitched in a box shape to secure.
Use up Those Leftover Scraps
Cindy Potter Henneke
Use small leftover strips to create a key snap holder sewn into the side seam of the lining.
These are 1/2" swivel snaps.

Use Double Sided Tape for your Strap Handles

Sandra Hoyt
Another couple of tips for sewing with double-sided tape. In straps, if you can use 1/4" or even
just 1/2" tape and you're only stitching your straps with a 1/8" topstitch, you really shouldn't
end up going through the tape (as long as you've centered the tape down the middle), so don't
use anything wider. But, if you do end up having to stitch through the tape, take a paper towel
and put some sewing machine oil on it and wipe your needle with it. It's not enough oil to cause
any problems on your fabric, but it keeps most of the tape gunk from the needle. If you're
stitching lots, you might have to do it periodically.
Use Your Quilting Foot to Install Zip
Kelley Rao
Use your 1/4" quilting foot to install zips on your domestic machines.

Use Masking Tape for Straight Top Stitching

Nancy Clara
Not sure if this has been shared. My tip for topstitching pocket dividers. Masking tape for
sewing straight lines. Sew a line move tape over and sew your second line.

Use Staples for a Perfect Purse Bottom

Maggie Crawford
I'm a recent purse sewer and I saw this tip in a video and it has forever changed my life and
makes me love sewing bags now! When you get to those dreaded curves in your purse STAPLE
the pieces together!! I start off by clipping them together to make sure it fits nicely and then
start moving one clip at a time and staple then the next clip! Then they don't move with like
they do with the clips while your sewing and you can manipulate the bag with no issues while
you sew it! Make sure you staple in the seam allowance and then just trim them off with the
allowance! Hope this helps someone else!
Using Zip Ties on a Zipper Divider Pocket
Hope A Wasylenki
Need: 2 exterior fabric and 2 lining fabric and 1 zipper and 2 zip ties that are somewhat longer
than your pocket width.
You sew in the zipper making a sandwich of exterior fabric RS up then put the zipper with the
pull face down then lining fabric RS down.
Sew across. Flip fabric so WS are together and lightly press. Topstitch across (with a width so
you can insert the zip tie into the channel). Repeat for the other side of your zipper pocket.
Cut off the lockbox of the zip tie. Insert zip tie into the channel on the lining side. Cut off the
excess (from the pointy part you would normally insert into the lockbox) so that it won't be in
your seam allowance.
Finish the divider pocket following your pattern.
V
Vinyl Flap Turn Tip – Fiona Wallet by Clobird
Peggy Hilmer Gibson
To avoid the yuk of having to press and turn it with that vinyl flap, I made the wallet without it,
turned it, then opened up the top seam, inserted the flap and topstitched it in.

Vinyl Under-Flooring
Carmen Maidment
The other day, my OH gifted 3m of vinyl flooring to me (was meant to be used in the van, but
we sold it instead). This stuff is blooming BRILLIANT!!! I can sew through it, it's flexible, but has
good weight for the base of my bags. I put a dab of glue underneath it, but secured it with some
light interfacing, the put 2 rows of stitching either side - both to secure, and decorative.

W
Welt Pocket – How to Sew
Peggy Hilmer Gibson
I found this tutorial on how to add a welt pocket. I really like the look of a welt that's done in
contrasting fabric and I am going to add it to the back of a bag I am stitching. Hope you find it as
helpful as I did! https://youtu.be/6MOuOLkLqQM
When Someone Indicates Your Pricing is too high…
Lisa Chandler Leek
I have a term for that. They have just "PRICE SHAMED" you. This person is not a potential
customer. They have just proven:
1. They do like your work.
2. They are rude.
3. Your pricing IS too much for "them."
4. They don't want your bag enough to make it a priority.
Now:
1. Every person is not meant to be a customer.
2. This person will not ever be your customer and you should never allow them to become
a customer.
3. Discussions are over with this person. Don't be upset just refuse to further discuss any
work with them.
4. Never justify your pricing, materials, workmanship, costs, etc. -- especially after being
price shamed.
5. Never reduce your pricing to make your bags affordable.
6. People who respect you and your work will prioritize and save for what's important.
7. You are not a charity.
8. Their refusal to pay your pricing has not changed the value of the bag.
9. It's no big deal.
10. A real customer will come along soon.
11. You are not desperate.

Z
Zip Tips
Hope A. Wasylenki
First, when you're sewing a seam and need to do a 90° turn; Mom taught me to stop 1 stitch
before the turn with your needle down then raise the pressure foot. Now, turn 45° and lower
foot, take 1 stitch then needle down and raise the foot, finish the remainder of the 90° turn
(now an additional 45°), lower the foot and continue your seaming. It seems to make the
corners neater after turning.
Next, (I apologize if this is a duplicate). When making a zip pocket that gets flipped to the inside
- ignore your pattern (unless it's a welter one or has other features).
When I'm drawing the box, it's as wide as it's supposed to be (6" - 7" - 8") BUT I only make it
3/8" tall. This really helps me with getting my zip in the right place so I can sew it down. Now,
you continue as your pattern says.
Zipper Jig Right in Your Tool Box
Cathy Buckland Thomas
OK, I just figured out an even simpler way to make a zipper jig! I can't take any video by myself,
but it's really easy! Take a regular claw hammer and put the handle between your legs (while
sitting down) with the claw facing you. Put the slider into the claw part with the round end
facing you and the pull on the bottom. I just put 6 sliders on 3 yards in about a minute.

Zipper Tabs – New Approach

Byron & Michelle
Just saw this tute and thought I'd share it here. Want to try it on one of my next bags.
http://www.andriedesigns.com/a-new-approach-to-zipper-tabs/

Zipper Technique
Carissa MacNaught
When using zipper by the yard and making a recessed zipper I used this technique. (I know it's
possible to fold it 90 degrees to use on the zipper panels - but I was frustrated and sick with a
cold). I used a 15" length of zipper tape and added a zipper tab on both ends and riveted them
to the bag. This technique was featured in the Ultimate Lunch Bag pattern by Rajyalaxmi. It
worked perfect for this bag (which is The Rose Handbag by Bagstock).
Thank you to each and every one of you who took the time to submit
and share your tips with our fabulous Creative Bag Making Group!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/creativebagmaking/
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