MODULE 9: ALL ABOUT SHIRTS

Shirts appeared first in European dress in the seventeenth century as a kind of

underwear, designed to protect expensive waistcoats and frock coats from sweat and
soil. By the early eighteenth century, shirts had assumed importance as garments in their
own right. The emphasis placed by Beau Brummel and other dandies on wearing clean,
perfectly styled linen brought the shirt into increased prominence as an essential male
garment. Before the middle of the nineteenth century, only those considered to be
gentlemen could afford to wear white shirts, as only they had the means to buy, change,
and wash them regularly. Because shirts soiled so easily, men involved in manual labor
found it completely impractical to wear them. The development of improved laundry
techniques after the mid-nineteenth century expanded the market for shirts, but they
remained emblematic of upper-class, or at least "white-collar" middle-class men.
A shirt is a garment worn on the upper part of the body, usually consisting of a buttoned
front, a collar, and long or short sleeves. Possibly the most important item in the male
wardrobe after the suit, the shirt has always been considered the symbol of a gentleman.
The finest shirts are single-stitched, pleated at the cuff, and feature a split shoulder yoke
to allow for different heights of each shoulder.

11 TYPES OF SHIRTS EVERY MAN SHOULD HAVE

No matter if you’re a businessman or ordinary people, there are types of shirts that every
man should have in his wardrobe. From Oxford button-downs to casual chambray, some
styles are made for specific events and seasons and can be worn in almost any way. If
you need some help deciding which type of shirt to buy, keep reading as we have done
the hard work for you.
1. Oxford Button-Down Shirt
- Created by John Brooks in 1896, the Oxford button-down was an instant
classic. Characterized by the thicker fabric and button-down collar, this shirt is
a casual take on the traditional dress style. It’s perfect for many events, whether
it be at a wedding or the office. Opt for lighter colors for a professional setting
and darker shades for a casual event.
2. Dress Shirt
- Elegant and simplistic, the dress shirt is exactly what you need when you’re
aiming to impress. It is typically thicker than a regular shirt, with a pointed, wing
or cutaway collar and double cuffs. The dress shirt looks best with a tuxedo or
three-piece suit, complete with a bow tie and cufflinks. It is often seen at black
or white tie events or on James Bond himself.
3. Cuban Collar Shirt
- With short sleeves and an open collar, these shirts are an essential summer
staple that makes you look and feel cool. Don’t be fooled, this shirt doesn’t have
to make you appear like you’re on holiday with the kids; you can look cool as a
cucumber with the right styling. With an array of colors and designs to choose
from, you can keep it casual or beachy keen, no matter what your mood is. It
 is best for laid back events such as a festival or an afternoon at the pub; show
a bit of chest and look slick all at once.
4. Overshirt
- For the in-between seasons where it’s too cold for a T-shirt alone but too warm
for a coat, the overshirt comes into play. It is versatile and typically worn over
the top of another shirt, whether it be a T-shirt or a button-down. The beauty of
the overshirt is its simplicity; opt for a plain T-shirt underneath paired with a
block-colored overshirt. Blues and grey are great for a night out, whereas
neutral shades are best suited for day time activities
5. Flannel Shirt
- Stay warm and stylish with a flannel shirt. Often seen on those who live in cold
climates, the flannel shirt is made of thick, soft fabric and traditionally comes in
a checked pattern. For those days where you need to keep warm, flannel is
your best choice. Pair it with a T-shirt and jeans, and you’ll be the coolest guy
in the room.
6. Office Shirt
- Roll up your sleeves and get to work while looking effortlessly smart. The office
shirt is an ideal choice for those who work in a desk job; think business casual.
Colors such as whites and pale blues are an excellent option for the workplace.
Opt for textures such as oxfords and herringbones for a more casual
appearance without having to don a tie.
7. Chambray
- Chambray shirts are one of the most versatile items to have in your wardrobe.
Unlike denim, it is woven in a light fabric and plain-weave construction, creating
a casual and comfortable piece of clothing. These shirts are perfect for any
laidback or smart casual event. Keep it relaxed by pairing it with jeans or chinos.
If you need to smarten the look up, you can rock the chambray with a blazer;
the possibilities are endless.
8. Classic Short Sleeve Shirt
- Roll up your sleeves with style in a classic short sleeve shirt. Similar to the
traditional button-down, this shirt style has an open and pointed collar. It is a
stylish option for a casual day at the beach or a cafe. Available in a massive
range of colors and patterns, you can choose to style it any way you like. These
shirts look great without a tie and with a pair of jeans, chinos or shorts.
9. Denim Shirt
- The denim shirt is a piece of clothing that can instantly tie an outfit together. Be
it a casual gathering or a smart-casual event, it creates an effortless sense of
cool. Opt for a light-colored T-shirt under the denim, and wear it with a dark-
colored pair of pants for a simple, yet trendy look. The denim shirt is a timeless
and stylish option for the days where you want to feel comfortable but look cool
at the same time.
10. Linen Shirt
- Linen shirts are the perfect option for days where you feel like you’re melting.
Made from ultra-breathable fabric, it is traditionally worn in casual and smart
casual settings. Opt for a light color such as white or blue; it will make you look
instantly cooler. Roll up the sleeves and pull on a pair of light chinos for the
ultimate summer appearance, or rock it with jeans and a blazer for a slightly
more formal approach.
11. Polo Shirt
- The polo shirt is a versatile and stylish piece of clothing and looks best at casual
events. Unlike the T-shirt, it is made of woven fabric and is complete with a
pointed collar and a few buttons at the neck. You can choose from an array of
sorbet colors for a day out on the beach, or darker shades if you’re heading out
for lunch with mates or the races.

IMPORTANCE OF T-SHIRTS
T-shirts often reflect the identity of one’s self. It would not be wrong to say, everyone
has its own perfect type of T-shirt to wear. Over years, T-shirts have transformed from
a means of cover to self-express and are a very important asset in anyone’s clothing
regime. T-shirts are our exclusive storyboards that we love to play around to exhibit
freely, without the fear of judgment. Apart from being the most comfortable of the
clothes, T-shirts help out in giving all sorts of messages, glamorous looks sometimes
and whatnot in their extreme efficacious forms.
1. T-shirts express your identity
- T-shirts are the most personal canvas for individuals to represent their inner
self. They carry personal and social messages, hobbies, passions, interests,
slogans, creative designs, preachings, and express the wearers in their truest
nature. Sometimes, what you aren’t confident to say out loud, you can reveal it
by your T-shirt.
2. You are about to bring a social change
- Owing to some recent events, there is a surge in people wearing tees with
slogans like, ‘Black Lives Matter.’ Such a form of expression tells the world that
you support a cause. Your silent support strengthens the number of people who
desire change.. And now, it is this silent support that would bring about the
change that we desire and make the world a better place to live for everyone.
3. It lets you communicate better
- When your T-shirt carries identifiers from your favorite sport, extra-curricular’s,
color symbols or likewise; you are communicating your preference. Imagine
being out on a blind date and luckily your partner is sporting a similar quote as
you are, like ‘Music is my life.’ That is bound to get the conversation started.
4. It is the most comfortable form of clothing
- Let us talk about its primal usage; giving warmth and comfort. If you are in a
hurry, you must have often heard the phrase, ‘throw on a Tee.’ Wearing and
carrying a T-shirt is as simple as throwing it on. T-shirt is the second best thing
 that you would prefer to get cosy and cuddle with, if not the first. You may not
notice, but it is the comfort, warmth and a hug of a T-shirt that has helped you
sleep better most times. Comfort sometimes varies with T-shirt sizes and
occasions. If you sport a chiselled physique and you are looking to impress,
you may prefer a more hugging, snug fit T-shirt. If it is the utmost comfort that
you are looking for, an oversized, loose fit T-shirt may come in handy.
After reading this, imagine the weight the T-shirts carry on their shoulders or
should we rather say yours. But worry not, your favourite Tees are there to
support you through ups and downs, all the way to hug you while you seek
comfort through a sleepless night.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SHIRT AND T-SHIRT

SHIRT T-SHIRT
- Shirt is normally a button up shirt, like a - A T-shirt has short sleeves and no
business shirt. buttons, no fancy shaping
- shirts that have sleeves somewhat - simple garment made in the shape of a
resemble the letter T letter T.

- Can be worn with placket opening and - cannot be put on any way other than
buttons pull over head.

- shirt is usually made of cotton or silk and - A t shirt is a shirt made of soft
can be buttoned at the front stretchable cloth without opening.

- shirt can be any kind of intermediate - Used as undergarment of the body for
layer top (long or short sleeve) but usually other types shirt as fashion or style
means button up and with collar

CONSIDERATION IN SEWING SHIRTS

1. Even collar points
2. Uniform stitching in collar
3. Cut on grain
4. Sleeves inverted with one opposite angle part of the bodice
5. Seams free from wrinkles
6. Matching patterns
7. Pockets evenly stitched and reinforced corners
8. Buttons of uniform thickness
SHIRTS AND THEIR USES

TYPES OF SHIRTS FRONT

TYPES OF SHIRT BACK PLEATS

Yoke
A yoke is a shaped pattern piece which forms part of a garment, usually fitting around the
neck and shoulders, or around the hips to provide support for looser parts of the garment,
such as a gathered skirt or the body of a shirt. Yoke construction was first seen in the
19th century. The yoke is where the back and front shirt panels are stitched with the
shoulder panel.

TYPES OF YOKE IN SHIRT

1. One piece yoke
- refers to a yoke that is constructed from a single piece of fabric.
2. Split yoke
- refers to a yoke which is split in the middle. The split is of course sewn together,
and you can see that the two pieces are arranged at an angle of one another.
3. Classic yoke
- A classic yoke is a solid panel of fabric that goes across the back without a split
or vertical seam in the center.
4. Western yoke
- is curved and comes to one or more points, as opposed to a straight stitch
commonly found on most contemporary shirts

COLLAR
A collar is the part of a dress that closes around your neck securely. It can be attached to
a shirt, coat, blouse, etc. A collar is either permanently attached to the main body of the
dress or it can be detachable. The classification of collars is majorly based on the
utilization of the collar stand , a part of collar

Parts of Collar

- The band is a strip of fabric that makes the collar stand perpendicular to the
body of the garment. The outer collar is attached to the band.
- Collar stiffeners inserted into the band to make the bandstand.
 - Points are the corners of a collar, sometimes buttoned down or left free to
hang.
- Spread is the distance between the points of a shirt collar.
- Collar stays are plastered strips that are used to support the pointed of the
collar to prevent from curling upwards
- The neckline edge is the side of the collar that is stitched to the neckline of the
garment.
- The collar edge the outer edge or design of the collar.
- Collar stand (band) is the height at which the collar rolls over itself.
- Roll line is the fold-over at the collar stand.

PLACKETS
Plackets are openings in garment , either where it fastens or in a pocket. Plackets are
particularly seen in women’s garments which have a good fit. They can also be found at
the cuff of a sleeve in a garment. Fasteners like zippers, buttons, buttonholes, hooks are
used in keeping the plackets closed.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF PLACKETS

1. Continuous lap sleeve placket
- A continuous lap sleeve or bound placket is a common finish that facilitates
dressing ease in blouses and shirts. The opening is similar to the legs of a dart,
which looks like a long thin triangle and the dimensions of the placket are
normally mentioned on the sleeve pattern.
- Continuous bound placket - a bound slit in a garment that allows the garment
to open wider at cuff or bodice opening.
 2. Two-piece placket
- This kind of placket is mostly used as an opening in the left side of skirts or in
petticoats and sometimes in the back side of dresses. A binding and the overlap
with a facing is given as a finishing in the under lap side of this placket
3. Miter-placket
- A miter placket or tailored placket provides an attractive look to the garment
and also to enhance the strength (Figure-5). A miter placket is very often used
in the sleeve opening area of men’s shirts, children’s garments
4. Zipper-placket
- Zippers are available in different sizes and are usually assembled to the
garment panel using tape. Selection of the zipper depends on the size and the
color of the placket required. Zipper plackets used in skirts, frocks, shirts,
handbags, decorative purses and other garments are shown in Figure-6.
5. Faced placket open
- It is typically a simple neck finish used on infants’ and children’s clothes and
night dresses. piece right side facing the garment, do a row of stitch catching
the garment

SAMPLES OF PLACKETS AND CUFFS

IMPORTANT TOOL IN DRAFTING MEN’S GARMENTS

L-square ruler - is used by drawing a line from the ruler’s corner to the desired number
on one of the ruler’s scales. The ruler includes scales for halves, thirds and eighths.
An L-square (or tailor’s square) is a two-armed ruler used to make reduced scale patterns
in pattern drafting. It eliminates the need for math when figuring scale measurements.
The short arm has halves, 4ths, 8ths and 16ths. The long arm has two-thirds, 3rds, 6ths
and 12ths. The tailor first determines which scale to use, then draws a line from the zero
point at the corner of the ruler to the number on the desired scale corresponding to the
original full-scale measurement. For example, if the full scale pattern calls for a
measurement of 16 inches and the tailor wants to make a half scale pattern, the tailor
draws to the 16 mark on the half scale, which creates an 8-inch line.

USES OF AN L-SQUARE

FOUR IMPORTANT USES OF AN L SQUARE

1. to measure short distances up to 24
2. to draw straight lines
3. to construct perpendicular lines
4. for divisional purpose

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION
A. TAKING BODY MEASUREMENTS
How To Measure Your Size
1. Collar - Measure around the base of your neck.
2. Chest - Measure around the fullest part.
3. Sleeve - Measure from the collar, down the shoulders and along the outer
side of the arm.
4. Waist- Measure around your natural waistline.
5. Inside Leg – measure from top of the inside leg at your crotch to your ankle
bone
6. Outside Leg – measure from your natural waistline to the hem
7. Centre Back Length – measure from the center of the collar seam to the hem

STANDARD BODY MEASUREMENTS FOR MEN

There are limitations to standard measurement charts e.g. they assume that as a person
increases in chest size they also grow taller and have longer arms. We all know that that
is not so; therefore, these charts need to be complimented by your own
measurements/knowledge. Please feel free to reference these charts as a jumping off
point in creating your own designs.

A note about Size Range: The sizes included in these charts were limited by the
information available. I just couldn’t find enough sources above a 52 chest to create
average figures.
A note about Fit: The Underarm Sleeve measurement will vary depending on the style
of garment and amount of ease in the design e.g. a drop-shoulder style sweater will have
a much shorter underarm measurement than a very fitted one with a set-in sleeve. Use
your own experience and knowledge to complement these tables. It’s always best to
measure the person for whom you are designing the garment. Another good comparison
source is a sweater or sweatshirt that has the correct fit — measure it and compare it to
these charts

B. DRAFTING PATTERN FOR SHIRT

- Conclusion. To create a simple pattern, a pattern maker would have to follow
five essential steps: gathering their material, taking proper measurements,
adding styles and designs, grading their design, then draping it to result in the
final garment.

MEASUREMENTS NEEDED IN SEWING A SHIRT

Sample measurements
1. Shoulder – 14 divide it by 2 = 7
2. Breast = 32 divide it by 4 = 8
3. Hip scale = 34 divide it by 4 = 8 1/2
4. Neckline = 14 divide it by 2 = 7
5. Sleeve length = 7
6. Shirt length = 7
7. Bodice length = 15

A. BACK PATTERN:
A is the starting point
A1 downward is 1/12 of the breast scale
A2 downward is ¼ of breast scale
A3 downward is ½ breast scale plus ¾ inch
A5 sideward is ¼ of breast scale less 1”
1-4 downward is shirt length
Square out lines 1,2,3,and 4.
1-6 sideward is ½ of the shoulder measurements
2-7 sideward is ½ of the shoulder measurements
3-8 sideward is ½ of the breast plus ½
4-9 sideward is ½ hip scale
Connect 1 and 5 with a curve, 5,6,7,8 and 9 with a ruler
 B. FRONT PATTERN:
1B downward is ¾
7C inward is 1 ¼
Connect BC by folding the pattern then adjust BC
B10 is ¼ of breast scale less 2 inches
10-11 same as 5 and 6
Shape 11 to 8 with a curve
10 -12 towards the centerfold is1/2 of the neck measurement
Connect 10-12 with a curve
12-13 outward is 1 ¼ inches
4-14 outward is 1 ¼ inches
14-15 downward is ½ inch
Connect 13,14 and 15 with a ruler, 15 and 9 with a curve
1-16 is bodice length (neckline to waistline)
Square out line from 16
17-18 inward is 1 inch
Connect 8, 18 and 9 with a curve for the waistline

DRAFTING THE SLEEVES

A is the starting point
AB downward is sleeve length
AC downward is cap height (4” to 5”) depending on the size of the client
AD inclined is ½ armhole of the shirt bodice
BE sideward is Lower arm girth
H is center of AD
I center of H and D
I3 downward is ¼ inch
H1 upward is 1 inch
A2 sideward is 1 inch
Connect A, A2, H1 and I3 with a curve

DRAFTING THE COLLAR AND THE COLLAR STAND

A is the starting point
Draw lines horizontal and vertical using the L square
AB downward is 3 inches
BC downward is 1 inch
CD downward is 1 inch
Draw horizontal lines from letters A, B, C, D.
BE sideward is ½ neckline measurements less 1 inch
Draw vertical line from E, upward and downward
Mark intersection lines E,G and H
FI sideward is 1 inch
EJ downward is ½ inch
K is the center of A and F
Draw vertical line downward
Mark intersection lines L, M, and N.
Connect AKFIJL and B

THAT IS NOW YOUR COLLAR FOR THE STAND

O upward is ½
HP sideward is 1 inch
PQ upward is ½
MR downward is ¼
Connect CMOH with a curve using a French curve
Connect CDNH with a ruler
NOTE: 1. AB – CD is the center fold of the fabric when cutting
2. CUT 2 pieces for the collar and for the collar stand.

C. LAY-OUTING PATTERN PIECES

Focus on 5 areas:
1. Pressing
- Press your tissue pattern pieces before you lay them on your fabric. Your
pattern pieces will have creases in them from being folded in an envelope. If
you put your iron on a low setting, you can safely press the creases out without
damaging your pattern pieces.
2. Pattern Layout Guide
- Follow the layout guide that comes with your pattern. This is to ensure you
get the best results with the most efficient use of your fabric. Following the
layout guide also includes choosing the right layout for your fabric according
to different fabric types and widths. The layout will be based on your fabric
width and whether or not all your pieces need to lay the same way. For
instance, velvet fabric requires a different kind of layout than cotton fabric.

The exception to following the pattern layout guide would be if you have a
fabric with a print or plaid design that needs to be matched or if you’re doing
something different or creative with your fabric. Then you would have to figure
out the best layout for your idea.
3. Grainlines
- The grainline on your pattern piece is very important. The grainline is there
to:
1. Tell you what direction your pattern piece should be placed on your fabric.
2. Your grain line is always parallel to the selvage. If your pattern piece should
be lay lengthwise, crosswise or on the bias, the grainline will tell you (as well
as the layout guide).
 3. Aid you in laying your pattern pieces on your fabric as straight as possible.
4. The grainline is the straight line on your pattern piece that’s parallel to your
center front or center back.
5. Ruler should line up perfectly with the grainline and selvage
6. Grainline is an equal distance from fabric selvage at both ends.
4. Cutting
- Cutting your fabric with one hand on your pattern piece at all times ensures
that it stays in place while you cut. This means that left-handed people will cut
their pieces out in clockwise direction and right handed people will cut their
pieces out in a counterclockwise direction.
Place one hand on your pattern piece while cutting to prevent shifting or any
kind of movement.
5. Marking
- After checking your grainlines and carefully cutting out your pieces, the last
and also an important step is marking them. Every symbol has a purpose and
is there to aid you while you sew. They’re used for things like matching seams
and dart or pocket placement. It’s also important to mark these symbols
BEFORE you remove your pattern pieces.

D. Sewing
SEWING FOR MEN AND BOYS
In the construction of men’s garment, the principal goal is clothes with individual
styling and good fit.
In sewing for children, whose primary aims are durability and allowance for growth
and speedy completion of the garment.

SIMPLE STEPS IN SEWING THE SHIRT

1. Prepare all the materials, the fabric and the sewing machine
2. Prepare the yokes and the back shirt
3. Pin, tack, join and sew the yoke together with the back bodice shirt
4. Join and sew the yoke and the front bodice shirt.
5. Work for the placket opening
6. Work for the collar.
Sew the collar.
Sew the collar stand together with the collar
Trim the excess fabric.
7. Attach the collar to the neckline of the shirt starting from the center back.
Follow the center notch.
8. Join the side seams together with the sleeves.
9. Fold and sew the hemline.
10. Make buttonhole and put and attach buttons.
Cut loose ends of threads. Press. Submit.