ESSENCE—IJERC | Datt and Journal
International Marriyafor
(2018) | IX (1): 13—20
Environmental Rehabilitation and Conservation
ISSN: 0975 — 6272
IX (1): 13— 20
www.essence-journal.com
Original Research Article
Documentation of the motifs used in tie and dye of
Rajasthan Bandhani
Datt, Sunetra and Marriya, Kavita
Department of Fashion and Textile Technology, IIS University, Jaipur, Rajasthan
ARTICLE INFO
Received: 12 January 2018 | Accepted: 22 April 2018 | Published Online: 15 August 2018
DOI: 10.31786/09756272.18.9.SP1.153
EOI: 10.11208/essence.18.9.SP1.153
Article is an Open Access Publication.
This work is licensed under Attribution-Non Commercial 4.0 International
(https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)
©The Authors (2018). Publishing Rights @ MANU—ICMANU & ESSENCE—IJERC.
ABSTRACT
Heritage is the collection of traditional Myraid art forms of a country. The exquisite and exclusive
traditional design passes down from generation to the other making the craft more enchanting with
each generation. India is one of the countries that is wonder wedged with the art , beauty, diversity,
variety, skills of craftsmen with tremendous capabilities especially in the world. Rajasthan is one of
the states with a magnificent collection of the tie dyed fabrics and block printed textiles. Tie and
dye of Rajasthan is a reflection of royal patronage of textile art forms. Rustic yet elegant, violently
colorful yet eye pleasing. The study aims documenting the motifs used in the three regions of Ra-
jasthan namely Mewar, Marwar & Shekhawati.
KEYWORDS
Motifis | Tie | Dye | Bandhani
CITATION
Datt, Sunetra and Marriya, Kavita (2018): Documentation Of The Motifs Used In Tie And Dye Of
Rajasthan Bandhani. ESSENCE Int. J. Env. Rehab. Conserv. IX (1): 13—20.
https://doi.org/10.31786/09756272.18.9.SP1.153 https://eoi.citefactor.org/10.11208/essence.18.9.SP1.153
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ESSENCE—IJERC | Datt and Marriya (2018) | IX (1): 13—20
Introduction Results
'Bandhani' is a Sanskrit word which means 'to Craft detail has been categorized for all three re-
tie' .Bandhani means ready material and the pro- gions of Mewar, Marwar & Shekhawati expertly:
cess. It is a traditional art of tying the fabric first The details are described in terms of motif design
and then dyeing the fabric with blocks, weaving technique of product making, material used &
and printing are the ways of decorating an colors in tie & die technique.
Odhana1. Tie-dye is a process of resist dyeing tex- Bandhej of Shekhawati Region
tiles or clothing which is made from knit or wo- While design the survey of the Shekhawati region
ven fabric, usually cotton; typically using bright it was observed that artisans were well unused
colors (Anonymous, 2009). This art is used to with the elements & principles of design while
make simple and complicated design in different planning the layout for any tie & die Jat, Chippa,
colours on odhanas. Various patterns are made Khatri & Mali were the communities addianced
like round, square, wave, triangular, dott etc. into this craft. Bandhai i.e. lying the fabric was in
Some of the popular patterns used in Rajasthan Shekhawati Region. The after Bandhai the fabrics
are suwabil tribundi, line sangam, peela laddu were tromp to Jaipur and was dyed bye dyer neel-
Chundari, Dabbi Kashmir ki kali, ohonider mota- gar ka nalla in Jaipur on dot, 3 dot & 7 dots are
ba, jalbar, Khat Sammandar, Panchrangi, Patti very popular. Design included : Tie and due of
pallu, Janzeer, Denedar, Bedder etc. Rajasthan is this region is famous for Bajri band very fine dots
known as the “Land of Kings” is India's largest speeded all over in a motif. The desings made
state by area or 10.4% of India's total area. It is were mainly in ornamental form use of earthy
located on the north western side of the India, colours was more prominent like brown, red, ma-
where it comprises most of the wide and inhospi- roon, rust, yellow and black design forms differ
table. In India Bandhani technique began around with the type of products made but in general bor-
5000 years ago. In the 14th century Jain Lord Ma- der design with all over jaal is a significant char-
havira was seen in a Bandhej fabric draped around acteristics of their design.
the waist well known centers for producing The fabric is sourest from Jaipur, Banga-
Bandhani fabric are in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maha- lore and cities of Bengal State. Colours
rastha, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Madhya were procured from Jaipur. Motifs used
Pradesh. The art was practiced by a Muslim are dungar shahr depicted geometrical
(Khatri) Community. Fabric was worn by the shapes. Majorly used on adhana “patti
tribes of Gujarat and Rajasthan mainly Bhils, phool” boota was a floral design used in
Rathwa and Rabaris, Bharwards respectively as borer and butta for an odhanas “kali bel”
their traditional clothing on the Contrary the includes diagonal lines with flower
Bandhani clothing was also used by the Royal spreader all over the saree generally this
Clan of Rajasthan. pattern is used in leheria and worn on the
Methodology festical of teej on the onset of vainly sea-
Traditional textiles of India is a synthesis of vari- son. Rani pink is the dominant color used
ous culture. Tie and dye technique of Rajasthan is in leheria (Fig 1).
amongst one of them. The craft of tie and dye in-
corporate variegated forms and approaches, that
Oriented researcher's interest to document and
contemporize the motifs of Tie and dye and study
the production technique of three regions of Ra-
jasthan. Details pertaining to Raw material used,
motifs, colors and production procedure was doc-
umented. purposive random sampling method was
adopted for selecting the four cities from each
region , in these regions artisans were working for
since past two to three generations therefore pur- Patti phool Dungar Shahi
posive design sampling of artisans was done.
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ESSENCE—IJERC | Datt and Marriya (2018) | IX (1): 13—20
Phul Jalibi, hazara phool, gorya (bird fly-
ing) (oldest motif known by the artisan “
pilla” bandhey is anodhna or that is given
to lady who has given birth toa amali child
the sara is offered by the rides parents.
Jaipur on dot, 3 dot & 7 dots are very pop-
ular.
Design included: Tie and dye of this re-
gion is famous for “ Bajri band very fine
dots speeded all over in a motif. The de-
signs made were mainly in ornamental
form use of earthy colours was more Kerri Butta Teen Bundi Hazara
prominent like brown, red, Maroon, rust,
yellow & black Design forms differ with
the type of products made but in general
border design with all over jaal is a sig-
nificant characteristic of their design.
The fabric is sourest from Jaipur, Ban-
golore & cities of Bengal. Colours were
procured from Jaipur. Motifs used are
dungar shahr “ depicted geometrical
shapes. Majorly used on adhana “patti
phool” boota was a floral design used in
borer and butta for on odhanas “ kali bel”
includes diagonal lines with flower spread- Patti bel Shikaar drashya
er all over the saree generally this pattern
is used in leheria and worn on the festival
of teej on the onset of vainly season. Rani
pink is the dominant color used in leheria
(Fig 1). Phul Jalibi, hazara phool, gorya
( bird flying ) (oldest motif known by the
artisan “ pilla” bandhey is anodhna or that
is given to lady who has given birth toa
amali child the sara is offered by the rides
paren ts.
Dibiya phool Phool jalebi
Phool leheriya Hazara phool
Tipai phool Gurraiya(Chidiya)
Pan bel Patti jaal
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ESSENCE—IJERC | Datt and Marriya (2018) | IX (1): 13—20
Do Kerri Challa Bel Jalebi Satrangi teen bundi
Hazara phool jaal Asht kerri chakra Mota Leheriya Ek ungal leheriya
Patti border Gulab Kali Padam Roll Bandhai
Bundi leher Ulta sida patti Pan patti bel Phool challa Bel
Fig 1: Motifs of tie & dye of shekhawati region
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ESSENCE—IJERC | Datt and Marriya (2018) | IX (1): 13—20
Bandhej of Mewar Region
Fig. 2 Region of Mewar is famous for its
Mewari Turbans or Pagdi made of Bandhej
fabric are a major constituent of Rajputi
costumes worn by the males of Rajput.
Community kodi Bandhej i.e. tear shape
motifs is a famous pattern dyed in the re-
gion of Mewar. Small and intricate butte
speeded all over along with teat shaped Siddi bandhej
Chandiya bandhej
bel in the design found in Mewari
Bandhej. Although use of Natural dye is
very prominent charities tie of the bandhej
fabric, But in Bhilwara Synthetic dyes are
use and also tie & dye effect is generated
with the help of Screen prints Yellow, Or-
ange, Saffron, Red, Velvet are the colours
used in tie & dye on mulmul, Voil and
Cambric Fabric. Other motifs of Mewar
region are chaos laddu, mor (peacock de-
sign ) Dibia, heart bel, Kalash, Mothra, Satbudi gol bandhej Dhaari
Mandana oogl Jaal Sangam Border etc.
Sat bundi V Keroda mirchi mothra Dibbiya Laddo bundi phool
Ladoo phool Kaudi bandhej Diamond Phool jalebi dibbi
Chidi bel Kaudi jaal Kalash Tedha mothra
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ESSENCE—IJERC | Datt and Marriya (2018) | IX (1): 13—20
Dhoop chaav Chas kaudi
Tedha mothra Lehr mothra
Pine Butti
Jaal Toran sua
Chowk
Border Sarpil Kaudi Fig 2: Motifs of tie & dye of Shekhawati region
Bandhej of Marwar Region (F ig 3) Tie
and dye in region has experienced a dras-
tic change in the design, fabric, colour,
dye cleanse used in bandhavi Geometric
and figurative designs are used in the
Bandhej of Merwar region
The Craft is practiced by Khatri, Jaat and
Muslim Community. India dyeing is a
characteristic feature of Barmer dyeing ,
Dil bel Mor where Pali Balotra are using vat, reactive
and direct dyes. Bandhej in the region of
Marwar are Primarily done for Marwari
Communities, products like odhna, sarees
(saafa) turbans have attained a world fame
tools used for tie & dye includes, wood
sticks rings, needles, Rolling pen etc. The
dyeing to carried out on cotton, silk, cot-
ton silk and synthetic fabric. Ranking for
best proffered design range from a maxi-
Ashtcone Oogi phool jaal mum score of 60 to a minimum score of 6
for a specific motifs.
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ESSENCE—IJERC | Datt and Marriya (2018) | IX (1): 13—20
Haathi Dancing doll Ashok patti Chandiya
Kukat Sinhh Mewari Phool Phalgunia
Sakhi Mor Chopad Chowk Pomcha Dungri border
Mothra Bandhej Mothra
Miththu Pila
Sangam Do ranga mothra
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ESSENCE—IJERC | Datt and Marriya (2018) | IX (1): 13—20
Pan patta Sangam
Sat bundi katli W leheriya
Leher bundi Mishri bandhej
Fig 3: Motifs of tie & dye of marwar region
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Julie, A. J. (1997): Tie-Dye through the ages- a
history of tie-dye. Retrieved from dated
10.06.2004.
Kumar, R. (1999): Customs and Textiles of royal
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