Horticultural Modified
Horticultural Modified
BY
Mike R. Ching’amba
TRAINING CONSULTANT
October, 2006
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I. POTENTIAL OF THE HORTICULTURE INDUSTRY IN MALAWI
Introduction
Horticulture is a branch of agriculture concerned with the intensive cultivation of
garden crops that are used fresh and directly by people for and or medical
purposes.
Importance of Horticulture
1. Source of food
Fruits, vegetables, root and tuber crops play a good role in our daily diets as
sources of vitamins, mineral salts, proteins and energy. Our bodies can not store
vitamin C, for instance and as such, we must eat fresh fruits and /or vegetables
everyday to ensure their constant supply and availability in our bodies.
2. Source of income
Most growers of horticultural crops aim at producing horticultural products for sell
to earn the needed cash incomes with which to buy other daily needs. The crops
could also be exported to earn the much needed foreign exchange for the
country.
3. Employment generation.
Since horticulture crops are grown intensively, they demand a lot of labour in
their management and harvesting activities. Fruit crops, for instance, require a lot
of labour at harvesting since there is need to harvest them at right stages of
maturity depending on their use. Similarly thinning some vegetables like carrot
after drilling them in rows can be a very tedious experience for an individual even
in a bed of (1 x 10) m2. In contrast , a single person is capable of managing a
hectare or so of maize with little difficulty. The level of unemployment in Malawi
could be reduced if many people were engaged in growing horticultural crops
in horticultural farms or on their own small dimbas.
4. Development of Agro-industries
Through an intensification on the production of horticultural crops, agro-industries
would be developed with raw materials supplied from this sector of agriculture.
Fruits, for instance, can be grown to provide raw materials for juice
extraction,jam, paste making and many other products. Such industries not only
provide food but also generate employment opportunities and offer marketing
alternatives for the products that would otherwise be lost due to spoilage.
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II. VEGETABLE PRODUCTION
Vegetables can best be defined as plants whose edible parts are high in water
content. Such edible parts include roots, stems, leaves, immature and mature
fruits of flower parts. the art and science of producing vegetables is referred to as
olericulture
Classification of Vegetables
A. Part of plant eaten
leafy and stem vegetables- this include cabbage, asparagus etc.
C. Type of season
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Kingdom, Division, Sub-division, Phylum, Sub-phylum, Class, Sub-class,
Order, Family, Genus and Species. However, the Family, genus and
species are the most commonly used classification parameters as shown
below:
a. Liliacea-(Lily Family)
Onion- Allium cepa
Garlic- Allium sativum
Leek- Allium porrum
Shallot- Allium calonicum
Asparagus- Asparagus officinalis
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h. Cucurbitaceae- (Gourd family)
Field Pumpkin- Cucurbita pepo
Water melon- Citrullus vulgaris
Cucumber- Cucumis sativus
Squash- Cucurbita maxima
1. Environmental factors
A. Climate:
All crops grow very well within their climatic requirements. In vegetable
production cool season vegetable will in most cases not do well when
grown under hot environments
B. Water
Water is considered as source of life more especially for vegetable
production. Water content in most vegetables is above 90% and as a
result, there is need to allocate the dimbas (gardens) close to reliable
water sources.
C. Soil Type
The ideal soils for vegetable production is a well drained sandy loamy soil
with at least a reasonable depth of about 30-50cm. For clay and sandy
soils they can be improved by applying adequate organic matter such as
compost and also by observing strict crop rotation.
D. Topography
The ideal site is a level or gentle slope land where cases of erosion are
minimal. In steep lands, there is need to construct terraces to reduce
slope size.
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E. Distance from shade or bush
To avoid competition for light, moisture and nutrients between plants and
weeds, it is recommended to choose a site at least more than 10m away
from the bush or tall trees.
2. Social-Economical factors
A. Accessible roads
The area should have good road network for easy transportation of the
produce to the market or point of need
C. Availability of market
If vegetable are to be produced commercially, there is need to conduct a
very precise market research to determine the demand of the product to
be produced.
Raising vegetable seedlings on a small prepared land and then transplant them
to the main fields has the following advantages:
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C. Manure application - as basal dressing, phosphate and potash fertilizers
plus sieved compost are helpful for healthy seedling development.
D. Levelling- level the surface of the seedbeds by raking to make sure there
is even spreading of the water. This will also help to achieve even
germination and uniform size of the seedlings.
These are movable seedbeds which are more convenient for use during rainy or
cool season when seedlings may have to be raised in doors.
Other vegetables whose seedlings do not easily regenerate new roots, their
seedlings may also be raised in seed boxes before transplanting.
Where seed boxes are to be used, the following factors have to be taken into
consideration :-
A. Structure of the seed box- timber boxes with drainage holes at the bottom.
Two standing bars are necessary to lift up the bottom from the ground for
more drainage. They should not be too heavy to lift. The dimension should
be 50cm x 40cm x10cm.
C. Planting media for seed boxes – use volume measures at the following
ratio
Soil : Sand : Compost + Compound fertilizer
2 : 1 : 1 + 5g /box
or 5 : 2 : 1 + 5g / box
3. Seed Rates
WN ( 1 + S)
G
where N = Number of plants required in the main field. For example cabbage
spaced at 60 by 50cm, Number of plants per hectare will be
about 33, 300.
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W= Weight of seed to be sown in grams per 1000 seeds. For
example, cabbage seed is about 2.8 -3.4g/1000 seeds. But
on average it is 3g/1000 seed.
= 123.4 g/hectare
= approximately 125 g/ ha.
a. Methods of Sowing
1. Broadcasting : Seeds are scattered over the bed surface followed by
raking the bed thoroughly or covering the bed with compost.
Broadcasting method is used for small seeded vegetables. In order to
broadcast seed evenly and at a good space, seeds may be mixed
with sand before sowing to promote germination. The major advantage of
broadcasting method is that it saves labour costs. However, the
disadvantage is that more seed will be required since not all land on
the bed area.
2.Drilling method: Seeds are sown in rows across the bed with 10-15cm
between rows. This method gives enough for seedlings to receive
adequate amount of light and air.
b. Depth of Sowing
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The depth of sowing depends on the size of seed. The optimum depth of
sowing seeds is equivalent to and half (21/2) times the diameter of
the seed. Generally 0.5- 1.5cm is the average depth for sowing.
1. Quality Problems.
a) Maturity of seed- when the seed crop is grown by inexperienced
grower, harvesting can be done pre-maturely resulting into
harvesting seed of low viability.
c) Expired seed- too old seeds often lose viability and will result in
poor germination. It is recommended to plant seed of within
1-2 years.
2. Management problems.
a) Seedbed construction- when the seed bed is too rough, it might
cause problems in seed germination.
c) Moisture condition- seedbed may not either be too weight or too dry for the
seed to germinate. Poor levelling will sometimes contribute to a
seedbed being too dry or too wet.
3. Seasonal Problems.
Some times seed germination problems could be as a result of poor
temperature conditions. Cool season vegetables, for instance, will
have problems for their seeds to germinate in hot season and vice
versa. Lettuce for example, requires an optimum temperature of
150C for its seed to germinate while cucumber which is a warm
crop requires an optimum temperature of 260C. It will be difficult
therefore to sow lettuce at the temperatures as that of cucumber.
4. Physiological Problems.
Germination rate- some vegetable seeds are naturally low in their
germination rate e.g. garlic, shallot, and lettuce seeds.
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Seeds have their natural (physiological) requirements for
germination. Some of them of them include light stimulation as is
the case with lettuce seed. Such seeds do not require too thick
mulching or sowing too deep since seeds are deprived of the
sunlight. On the other hand, crops like garlic, the seed bulbs require
a period of low temperature (as low as 50C) for 30 days to break
dormancy before shooting.
5. Watering
A. Amount of watering.
1. Early stage- The first ten (10) days after germination, keep five
5cm depth of seed bed always moist by frequent light watering.
Water 2-3 times a day and make sure the bed is mulched to
maintain the moisture. Too much water will cause suffocation due
to poor aeration.
B. Watering Method
For better results, use a watering can that has good out-let
(roses) for gentle spreading of water. Do not water the
seedlings when they are under hot hours in the mid-day
because sudden change of temperature may kill the young
seedlings.
6. Mulching
The advantages of mulching are:-
a) Conserving the soil from erosion.
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d) Preventing the growth of weeds .
a) It does isolate the solar energy- especially in cool season when optimum
soil temperature is needed for root development.
7. Shading.
The young seedlings need to be protected against high temperatures, intensive
sunlight at midday and from the rain drop impact. Grass screen or black plastic
net are good materials for shading. The screen should be supported by pegs of
40cm above the ground.
A. Treatment of seeds.
1. It is necessary to coat the seeds with some fungicides such as
Mercuric chloride 1/1000 solution. Dip the seeds in the solution for
about 15 minutes then clean them with water to wash the excess
chemicals. Sometimes, copper-oxide dust is used at the rate of
2g/100g seed. There is need to shake the dust and seeds together
in a tightly closed container for few minutes.
B. Treatment of soil.
Heat treatment: - Burn grasses or maize stalks on the seed bed before
sowing. The maize stalks should be heaped to a thickness of about
1metre from the bed surface. For potted soil, it may be heated in a drum
rolled over the fire before use.
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C. Treatment of seedlings
Regular spraying is recommended to prevent the seasonal diseases. This
can be done once a week or every ten (10) day period. Check the nursery
every day to detect the attack and population of insects, otherwise it may
not sound economical to spray insecticides to deal away with the already
existing pests.
D. Treatment of Environment.
Clear the bush around the nursery at least 10 metres wide from the
boarder. The bush may be the middle host to diseases and insect
pests.
Tools used must be sterilised and use them for nursery only.
Washing hands before any operation is required for commercial
vegetable production.
9. Thinning.
Thinning out seedlings is a necessary practice as it gives the seedlings enough
room for growth and become healthy seedlings.
B. How to Thin.
Uproot the seedlings to 2-3cm for the first time and then 5-10cm for
the second time.
C. Initial transplanting.
Instead of thinning and throwing the seedlings away, there is need
to transplant them in a new nursery at a space of 10cm particularly
those that have attained a height of about 5-10cm.
10. Weeding.
The best time to weed is during the fine day when the bed is dry particularly in
the afternoon. Uproot by hand to avoid disturbing the seedlings.
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11. Top dressing
Liquid nitrogen fertilizer is convenient for top-dressing the nursery to enhance
growth of the seedlings.
Method of application: The ratio of the fertilizer to water should be 1:400 (weight).
This translates to a handful of either CAN or Urea to 10 litres of water. Water the
solution over the seedlings, then follow with fresh water to remove any trace of
fertilizer from the leaves which if left un-removed may end up in scorching the
seedlings.
Granular fertilizer can also be applied between the rows of the seedlings followed
by fresh watering of the nursery.
1. Crop Rotation
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b) Depletion of the particular plant nutrients:- certain crops require large
quantities of specific elements for food. The soil becomes exhausted of
some required elements after years of mono-cropping.
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(D) Alliaceae
a. onion
b. leek
c. garlic
d. shallots
(E) Compositae
a. lettuce
(F) Umbelliferae
b. carrot
c. celery
d. parsley
SEASON
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
PLOT
1 Aa Ba Ca Da Ea Fa
2 Aa Ba Ca Da Ea Fa
3 Fa Aa Ba Ca Da Ea
4 Ea Fa Aa Ba Ca Da
5 Da Ea Fa Aa Ba Ca
6 Ca Da Ea Fa Aa Ba
7 Ba Ca Da Ea Fa Aa
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2. Vegetable Bed construction
a. Flat beds- mark the paths 45cm between the beds. Plough the beds to a
depth of 30cm and then level the surface.
b. Raised beds- mark the path to 45cm between beds. Plough the beds
including the path between 20-30cm. Move the soil from the path to the
bed and level the bed thoroughly. Such beds should be 15-20cm high.
c. Sunken beds – remove the top soil and put it aside. Dig the subsoil to let
it loose and then bring back the top soil. Paths should be constructed
using the sub-soil only.
3. Manure Application
As a basal dressing, the following manure can be applied
Organic manures- apply any type of organic matter so long they are well
decomposed before use e.g animal manure, animal beddings and compost.
Chemical fertilizers- C-compound (6: 18: 15), D-compound (8: 18 : 15) or 23:21:
0 + 4S may also be used for basal dressing.
Apply a layer of manure on the bed surface and then incorporate them with the
soil up to 15-20cm deep.
4. Transplanting/planting
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c) uniform size for uniform growth and maturity.
5. Watering
(i) Frequency of watering
a) Check beds moisture condition before watering. Use a peg as an
indicator-driven in a bed 30cm deep.
b) At early stage the dry depth allowed, is 5cm because the root system of
the plants is still shallow. At a later stage allow a dry depth of 10-15cm.
6. Mulching
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This is a very important practice during dry season in order to retain enough
moisture on the bed surface
7. Top dressing
Use Nitrogenous fertilizers e.g C.A.N and Urea at an early stage for most fruit
vegetables
Amount of top-dressing
Top-dressing can be done 2-4 times depending on the value of the crop and
growth condition. The application should be 5-10cm away from the station.
8. Weeding
Time for weeding- on a sunny day when the surface of the bed is in dry
condition
Weeding tools- use hand forks or a trowel to break the surface of the bed
to improve water holding capacity.
10. Harvesting
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(d). Texture used mainly for onions and cabbages.
1. Tomato Production
Family : Solanaceae
Introduction
Tomato is one of the popular vegetables in most peoples diets. It is also used as
a fruit vegetable for both fresh and processing markets. It is a very high value
product especially when grown during off-seasons.
Botanical characteristics
Leaves- they are spirally arranged, up to 30cm long and 10-15cm across. The
leaf blade is lobed and divided.
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Flowers- have a diameter of up to 2cm and are borne in inflorescences of 4-12
flowers. The calyx is short and remains green when the fruit ripens.
Fruit – is a green fleshy berry and becomes yellow or red when ripe. It may be
smooth or with longitudinal furrows.
Environmental requirements
Soils - tomato can tolerate a wide range of soils, however fertile soils with a good
moisture-retaining capacity and relatively high level of organic material are the
best. It should have at least a pH range of 5 - 6.5. low soil temperature often
retards growth of seedlings.
Temperature – high air temperatures of say, 270C can cause pollen sterility while
high night temperatures affects flower initiation. So night temperatures of 18-
200C are considered ideal for most cultivars. High and low temperatures affect
fruit quality, particularly colour of the fruits.
Rainfall (Moisture) – excessive rainfall often harm the tomato crop due to
prolonged leaf diseases during humid conditions. Uneven levels of water
combined with a lack of either calcium or potassium in the soil can lead to
physiological disorders of the fruit known as Blossom-end rot. On the other,
erratic irrigation may cause cracking and splitting of the fruit skin. All in all,
tomato is best produced under irrigation.
Altitude – tomato can grow even in highly elevated areas of up to 2000m above
sea level. However high yields are experienced within altitude range of slightly
above 500m. some cultivars however can still do better in low elevation but yields
are often very low due to lack of diurnal temperature variation and high humidity
which encourages leaf diseases.
Maturity
Variety Stem type Fruit shape & size
Other attributes period
High yielding &
Money Indeterminat Global & smooth, resistant to 90 -120
maker e (tall) with thick and firm Fusarium wilt. days
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skin
Resistant to
Rodade Semi-dwarf Round and smooth bacterial wilt. 90 -95
Good for fresh days
market.
Good shelf life.
Floridade Dwarf Flat round Resistant to 80 -85
Altenaria stem days
canker
Resistant to
Heinz 1370 Dwarf Flat round and Fusarium wilt 85 days
medium
Indeterminat Resistant to
Zest e(tall) Round Fusarium wilt 85 days
zeal Semi-dwarf Flat, round & large 85 days
Roma dwarf Oval and round Good storage 80-85days
Nursery Management
Construct raised seed-beds at a convenient dimension say; 1 metre wide and
10–15 cm high. 20 – 30g of seed are enough for transplanting in a field of a bout
1000m2 although variations can arise depending on the variety in question. Apply
compost manure at the rate of 2 -5kgs per square metre.
Sow the seeds in drills of 10-15cm and at 0.5cm deep. After sowing, it is
important to mulch the seed-bed to help in retaining the soil moisture and also to
control possible erosion along the bed sides during watering.
Watering should be done regularly, up until 25-30 days after germination when
seedlings are ready for transplanting into the main field. However, when initial
transplanting is to be done, seedlings will take about 30-45days before
transplanting. Harden off the seedlings for 4-5 days before actual transplanting to
acclimatise them to the field conditions.
Spray the fungicides regularly at least once a week to protect the seedlings
against fungal diseases.
Field management
Land Preparation
Plough the land to the depth of about 20-30cm and then thoroughly prepare the
bed by breaking the clods.
Prepare beds at least 1.2m wide and if ridge beds are used, they should be
spaced at 1.2m apart.
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Apply compost manure at the rate of 2kg per m 2 plus 50g of compound C
(6:18:15) or 23:21:0 + 4S. However, excess nitrogen will only promote vegetative
growth at the expense of reproduction growth. It may also delay fruiting process
and hence reduce fruit quality.
Planting out.
The recommended plant spacing are 70cm by 45cm (for a bed of 100cm wide)
and 90cm by 60cm (for a 1.2m bed).
Pruning :
This refers to the removal of side-shoots to control excessive branching of the
tomato plant. It also minimises competition besides modifying the plant canopy
as a means of controlling diseases. These side shoots should be removed whilst
young and tender to avoid damaging the main stem. Leaf pruning (defoliation)
should be done as well to reduce the size of primary inoculum which is often
found in the leaves touching the ground.
Training:
This is a system of developing a productive plant stems that can support growth.
Single stem or double stem training is recommended for most indeterminate
tomatoes. But for determinate table cultivars, five branches will still give good
quality. The second stem should be developed below the first cluster to give
strong braches. The stems should be trained along the stakes or trellises by tying
them loosely.
Water management
Good water management in tomato growing is important for increased fruit
weight (yield) and disease control. Tomato normally use 500 litres of water for its
growth and this is best applied by surface irrigation as opposed to overhead
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methods which promote foliar diseases. Avoid applying water to the leaves but
rather to the soil.
Late Blight caused by fungus Phytophthora infestans. There are black to brown
lesions on the leaves and often such leaves may wilt and die off. To control the
disease, spray fungicides like Dithane M45 at the rate of 30g in 15litres of water,
every 7-10days after transplanting. During the overcast weather or continous
rainy condtions, the spraying interval should be reduced to 3-4days. If it rains
within an hour after spraying repeat the process.
Red Spider Mites (Tetranychus spp) these mites are found on the underside of
tomato leaves causing mottling and silvering of leaves. These can best be
prevented by cultural practices which include crop rotation, sanitation like
uprooting all tomato stalks, interplanting with aromatic plants like marigold, and
increasing humidity. Spraying with Dimethoate 40% EC or Actellic EC at 1ml per
1 litre of water is helpful. The spraying should be done in full cover under the side
of leaves. Continous sprays of Dicofol and Malathion may still provide some
control.
Harvesting
Harvest tomato early in the morning but after dew has dried up to avoid rotting
and also when the fruits have not accumulated more heat in order for them to
store longer.
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Grading: - for commercial purposes, it is important to grade tomatoes according
to size and variety and make sure they are packed in a shallow grass-lined
baskets or wooden boxes that can only carry between 8-14kg of fruit.
Recommend cartons of 45cm x 22.5 x 10cm which can carry about 5.5kg of fruits
2. Cabbage Production
Introduction:
Cabbage is in the family Cruciferae (Mustard). Botanically cabbage is known as
Brassica oleracea var. capitata (headed family). Other species of the same family
include;
Plant Morphology
1. Part of the plant eaten is the leaf, usually after formation of the full head.
7. Fruits- after flowering, fruits will be formed and are silique (a short pod of
two carpels with replum) or is partitioned.
Cultivars
Different varieties (cultivars) vary in yield, heat tolerance, pest and disease
resistance, growing periods etc.
1. Large Drum head – high yielding, round and flat heads and long growing
period.
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2. Gloria osena – medium in head size and medium growing period.
3. Golden acre – medium growing period, and has a good quality leaf
(tender leaves).
4. Oscross (r) – large headed, vigorous in growth, high yielding. Suitable for
cold season or highland regions. But it is not good for storage.
8. Marious Market – tolerant to heat and wilt. Firm headed and of good
quality and is adaptable to wide range of soils.
10. Yesen – (Chinese variety) - flat round heads. Leaves are very tender
making it susceptible to Plutella (Diamond -Back moth
2. Soil requirement: - sandy loam soil rich in organic matter is best for
cabbage growing. Clay loam soil will need an addition of organic matter
like compost or farm yard manure. So cabbage can be grown on a wide
range of soil so long they are free draining. Soil should have pH of 6.5 -6.8
A. Nursery work
1. Seedbed preparation: - plough the nursery site to a depth of 15-20cm for
temporary seed raising. Apply compost at the rate of 2.5 kg per square
meter and mix with compound fertilizer e.g. C – compound (6:18:15) or D-
compound (8:18:15) at the rate of 50g /m 2. The bed should be well
levelled to ensure even spread of moisture.
2. Sowing: - sow the seeds in drills of 10-12cm apart across the bed or
broad-cast the seed for a large scale production.
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3. Mulching: - mulch the bed after sowing to reduce the loss of moisture and
growth of weeds.
4. Watering; - water the bed with a fine rosed watering can to avoid soil loss
within the bed and washing away of seeds.
6. Top-dressing:- use the liquid nitrogen and potash fertilizer. Dilute the
fertilizer mixture 400 times the weight of a single measure, that is one
handful of the fertilizer diluted in 10 litres of water. Apply clean water on
the seedlings after the fertilizer to avoid scorching the leaves.
I. Land preparation
i. Ploughing: - to be carried out thoroughly to the depth of 20-
30cm.
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Sprinkler irrigation- used mainly where water is in
short supply
Drip irrigation- used where water is a problem
III. Planting
V. Watering
Should be done early in the morning to avoid damp condition on the
beds which may encourage soft rot disease. However cabbage is a
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water loving crop as such it is important to apply enough amount of
water each time of irrigation.
A. Pests
1. Diamond Back moth (Plutella) - a pale green
caterpillar that eat the underside of the leaf
making holes. Control by using carbaryl or
cypermethrin.
B. Diseases
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be controlled by crop rotation, using clean seed and
destroying the infected plants.
VII. Harvesting
1. Indication of readiness: - cabbage will be ready for harvesting when the
heads are large enough and firm. Any delay in harvesting leads to head
burst.
3. Method of harvesting. - Cut the heads and turn them up-down on the
station. Apply lime at the cut stem to avoid soft-rot.
4. Packing- remove some of the outer leaves and keep two-three loose
leaves for rapping the head. Put rapped heads in aerated containers not
more than four layers. For easy lifting.
3. Carrot Production
1. Importance
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Root is used as a vegetable. Tender roots are pickled (putting in salt or
vinegar) for keeping them in good condition. Carrots can be curried
(made into powder) and dehydrated. The roots are rich source of Vitamin
A. Other important species in this family are celery and parsley.
2. Plant morphology
The plant is a biennial but is grown as an annual crop.
a) Roots –carrot has tap-root system, which is used as food. Thickness of
the cortex differs with varieties. Thicker cortex indicates good quality and
maturity.
b) Stem- has small stem, succulent and cone shaped at the top of the tap-
root. Once the stem is damaged by diseases or pests, the whole plant will
collapse within short time.
c) Leaf- fern like leaves having long petiole but no leaf blade
f) Seed- light brown or greyish in colour. Seed is small and light at least
1.5g/1000seeds.
3. Cultivars
There are several varieties of carrot and those commonly grown are:-
a) Chanteny- This variety has a long cone shape tap-root (about 15cm). The
root cortex in thinner and pith (core) is thicker.
b) Nantes- It has thicker cortex, more cylindrical which is fine textured and
sweet. This takes only 70days to mature after germination.
c) Early Cape Market- More cylindrical and shorter than chanteny. It has
sweet taste with brighter orange colour.
d) Ideal- high yielding and sweet tasting variety. Has much thinner core than
that of Nantes.
4. Ecological Requirements
A. Climate
Carrot grows best at 16 to 23oC for good germination and growth. It
prefers cool dry weather. High soil temperatures will
encourage the development of lateral roots and of pale
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yellow in colour. The crop grows best in high altitude areas
and is tolerant to a wide range of rainfall.
B. Soil
Sandy loam soil is best for the crop. The soil must have a pH of 6-
6.6. When there are too much of organic matter or heavy clay soils,
there will be forking of roots due to formation of fibrous root system.
The soil should be free of stones, clods, rough trash etc.
Deep sandy loam soils are however regarded as the best for carrot
production.
5. Field Management
a. Land preparation
Plough the land to a depth of not less than 30cm. Remove stones and all
other debris from the beds. Rough beds will cause forking of the tap-root
while shallow beds tend to cause green shoulders.
Apply well sieved manure at the rate of 1-2kg per 1m2. Compound fertilizer
might also be used as a basal dressing at 50g/m2.
b. Bed Construction
Construct beds of 1-1.2m wide and 15-20cm high. They should be raised
beds to make sure there is enough drainage. Too much moisture
promotes root rot disease
c. Sowing
Sow the seeds thinly and direct on the cropping beds in drills of 30cm
apart. If sown in stations, sow the seeds at 30 by 10cm with 5-6
seeds per station. Cover the seeds with fine sand to a depth of 1cm for
easy germination. The seed requirement for 1 hectare of land is 5-6 kg.
d. Thinning
After germination, thin out the young seedlings to 5cm apart at first, then
to 10cm apart after one-week. Thinning should be done before the
plants have reached 5-8cm tall to avoid competition and deformation of
the roots.
e. Weeding
This should be intensified at an early stage of the crop development to
avoid competition over sunlight and nutrients.
f. Top-dressing
Apply nitrogen fertilizer e.g. C.A.N or Urea at the rate of 30-33g/m2. By
drilling along the rows when the plants have reached 5-8cm tall.
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g. Watering
Keep carrot beds in well moistened condition. However, irregular
quantities of water will cause split root problems. There is need to ensure
good drainage system at all the times.
h. Banking
As one way of avoiding green shoulder problem in carrot, it is important to
bank (earth-up) the carrot root shoulders regularly.
A. Pests
a) Nematodes- these damage the tips of the tap-root and cause forking. Its
attack may also cause galls on the tap-rot surface. This can be controlled
by crop rotation, planting resistant cultivars and application of nematicide
before sowing.
c) Aphids- these may either be green or black in colour. They suck the sap
from the leaves and young growing points causing curling and distortion of
the leaves. Control with sprays of Dimethoate or Malathion.
B. Diseases
a) Leaf spot (Cercospora sp) - Is a fungal disease which causes a lot of
spotting on older leaves. Control with sprays of fungicides e.g. Dithane
M45, Daconil or Copper-oxy-chloride
32
ii) Crop age- harvest when the crop is 100-120 days after germination.
B. Methods of harvesting
i) For a larger scale production, tillers may be used to harvest carrot
ii) In small scale production, dig out with a hoe or uproot by hand. It is
recommended to have the bed moist when harvesting
* Yields may vary with cultivars but, it is possible to get 36-50 tonnes per
hectare.
4. Onion Production
Introduction
Part of the plant eaten is a bulb composed of a bundle made of thickened leaf
sheath with pungent smell. It is a biannual plant but grown annually. It has
potential of yielding 60-100 tonnes/ha with good management.
1. Plant morphology
a) Root system: - short, straight and shallow spread.
b) Stem:- a small conical underground stem
c) Leaves:-round and hollow tube leaf. The sheaths thickened at the base
and bundled as a bulb at a later stage.
d) Flowers: - has an umbel inflorescence.
33
without forming bulbs. If any, there will be multiple bulbs or
bottle neck bulbs.
B. Soil
Sandy-loam soils are all good for onion growing. Heavy clay and
course sand soils should be avoided as they don’t
provide enough room for bulb development due to high
moisture retention and high temperatures.
3. Cultivars
a) Dewilt- straw coloured (yellow/brownish) of the outer skin and light cream
colour of the flesh. The bulb has a narrow neck. It is good for storage.
b) White Lisbon – a good fresh market variety. It is also good for making
salad.
c) Early Texas Grano- has large bulbs with straw coloured. The flesh is firm,
mild and sweet. However storage for this variety is a problem.
d) Granex – early maturing and high yielding. The bulb has a thin neck. It is
resistant to pink –root disease. It does not store well.
e) Red-Creole – has red skin and produces a very strong flavour of pungent
smell. It is a late maturing variety but tolerant to rain or wet season. It is
good for storage.
f) Red Tropicana- produces very hard bulbs but of uniform size with thin
neck. They taste hot. Late maturing and favours rain season. Has good
storability.
Land preparation
a) Nursery bed area for a field of 1000m2 will be 60-70m2.
34
d) Bed preparation- make a bed of 1m wide and 10cm high with a very fine
and well levelled surface.
e) Sowing –
Broadcasting – if it is for a large scale production but make sure to
cover the beds with sieved soils.
Drilling –for a small scale production. Sow in drills of 6cm apart and at
05cm deep. Mulch the bed after sowing and to be removed soon after
seedling emergency
a. Land preparation
Plough the field to 30cm deep with a fine tilth.
Apply compost manure at the rate of 2.5kg/m2 (2,500kg/1000m2).
Basal dress 40g S.A + 60 S.P + 20g Kcl per sq. metre.
b. Planting –first harden off seedlings for 3-4days before transplanting. Up-
root seedlings with bare roots and distribute them on the beds
Spacing- should be 20 by 10cm between rows and plants respectively
c. Watering
i) At an early stage of crop establishment maintain 65% moisture
content, 50% at bulbing and 40% at harvesting stage.
ii) Method of irrigation- use furrow irrigation for 2 rows, exceeding that
then use flood irrigation and sprinkler irrigation. However, make sure
that the level of water should not exceed the sheaths of the leaves.
For the sprinkler irrigation, make sure it is completed before
11.00am to give chance for beds to dry up in order to avoid fungal
diseases.
35
d. Top-dressing – for a field of 1000m2 use the following rates
st
1 application after 10days of transplanting =16kg S.A + 20kg SP + 4kg Kcl
nd st
2 application after 20days after the 1 =16kg S.A + 10kg S.P + 4kg Kcl
rd nd
3 application after 20days after the 2 =16kg S.A only depending on
growth condition.
6. Diseases and Pests
A. Diseases
Symptoms – looks like leaf spot in the beginning, but there are
white spots on leaves, and then increased to black
and purple with a coal like mould spreading on
the surface. It may turn to yellow and wilt
later on.
Symptoms- the bulb has black or brown spots, and then increased
to inner sides causing bulb rotting. This is common
in storage.
36
The commonest include; aphids, army worms, Thrips which cause
economical damage. Control by spraying the correct pesticides
e.g. carbaryl, Malathion, Dimethoate and Actellic E.C.
7. Harvesting
Indication for readiness is the shrinking of the plant’s neck and bending
(lodging) of the neck.
When harvesting, pull the bulb out by holding the leaves and trim the roots
with a small knife. Cut the leaves 2-3cm above the neck and keep the
bulb in the field 2-3days for drying and then take them indoor for
further drying and storage.
Storage –
Cut the leaves and spread the bulbs on the shelves.
Keep the leaves by hanging them in bundles.
Storing in refrigerator at 20C . this will enable the bulbs to stay for 6
months without going bad
By definition, a fruit is part of a plant that contains the seeds and often used as
food. Fruits are more or less succulent and commonly eaten straight as dessert
or snack. The study of growing fruit trees is referred to as Pomology.
A. Importance of fruits
a. Source of food
Fruits are rich in nutrients, especially in vitamins, minerals and
carbohydrate. They can be eaten as either staple food e.g
plantains and bananas, or as supplementary food e.g mango, guava,
apple, oranges etc. processed fruit products are also important
source of food, e.g juice, jam, wine and vinegar.
b. Source of income
Fruits have all along been considered as source of refreshment and
nourishing food because of their flavours and aromas. It is for this
reason therefore that either fresh or processed type of fruits may bring a
commendable income through domestic or export marketing.
B. Classification of fruits
Classification of fruits just like vegetables may be determined by various
purposes. The following are some of the purposes or objectives commonly used
by horticulturists to classify fruits for purposes of convenience.
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1. Woody fruits and herbaceous fruits
Fruits borne on woody plants e.g mango, guavas, and oranges are
distinguished from those borne on herbaceous plants e.g bananas,
paw-paws, strawberry etc.
2. Botanical classification
Breeders and other nursery technologists classify fruits by their botanical
characteristics. It is a very important classification procedure as far fruit
propagation is concerned. Each fruit is identified by its botanical
name and the family.
38
These are fruits grown within the temperate zones of latitude 23 o- 66o
North and South of Equator. The climate of such these regions have cool
seasons almost all the year round. Temperate fruits include apple, peach,
pear plum and many others.
3. Sub-tropical fruits.
These are fruits grown between tropical and temperate climates. These
include guava, orange, macadamia etc.
3. Berry fruits
Fruits are fleshy and have their seeds laying in the pulp, e.g
strawberry, banana, paw-paw, fig, avocado etc.
4. Nut
These fruits have their edible parts protected by hard seed shell.
Examples of such fruits include cashew-nut, macadamia nut etc.
Some herbaceous fruit plants are proliferated directly by seeds, e.g Papaya,
Coconut, melon, granadilla and date-palm. But it is recommended that other fruit
plants be multiplied through vegetative propagation. The reason to this being that
it is possible for the dominant traits of such fruits to turn to recessive traits in their
descendants if sexual propagation was to be followed. A gene considered to
dominate the good phenotypic quality of a fruit may recess in the genotype of a
new plant during the processes fertilization and meiosis.
In order to avoid risks of losing the good quality traits of a particular fruit tree,
there is need to focus at planting materials which have the identical genotype
and phenotype of the mother plant. Some of these vegetative propagation
methods used in fruit propagation include; layering, grafting, budding and tissue
culture.
39
The other reason for vegetative propagation is that some cultivated fruits are
derived from mutation varieties which have abortive seeds e.g bananas and
pineapples. Suckers for such fruits are used as their major planting materials.
Below are some of the factors to be considered in site selection for fruit
production.
1. Environmental factors
1. climate
a). temperature
All fruit trees have their specific optimum growing temperature eg
Banana does grow well in areas with average temperatures of
25oC. While an apple needs average temperatures of 10oC.
b) Rainfall
Where irrigation is not applied, most fruit trees require an area with
average rainfall of between 600-3000mm. Distribution of rainfall in a
year is also important to some fruit trees which need a period of
dormancy for flower differentiation.
c) sunlight
Photosynthesis is an essential process for plant food. But this is possible where
there is adequate sunlight. The more sunlight in a year, indicates the more
healthy plants. Too much cloudy weather or where the orchard is close to a hill or
forest, will limit the plant from getting enough light. Such places should be
avoided at all cost.
2. Soil type.
40
Fertile and well drained soil is recommended for fruit growing. Soil
depth should also be considered in order to maximum anchorage
of the fruit trees.
3. Topography
The ideal site for orchard establishment should be a flat or gentle
slope land. If a steep land has been selected, then terracing should
be done. However such steep land tend to inflate the initial costs
because of things like soil & water conservation, transport, and the
irrigation system.
4. Water source
consideration on reliable water sources should be given a first
priority. If the site has no adequate rainfall then irrigation will be
necessary.
2. Social factors
1. Access to main road
2. Convenient transport system
3. Available labour force
4. Good security mechanism
5. Close to agricultural consulting institutions
3. Physiological factors
Above the environmental and social factors, lies the physiological factors that a
fruit tree may require for good growth and quality of the fruits.
a. Nutrient elements
a) Carbohydrate
Carbohydrates substances are manufactured through the process
of photosynthesis with the elements of carbon (C), hydrogen (H)
and oxygen (O). Sugar, glucose, starch, fibre and cellulose are the
main products of photosynthesis.
b) Nitrogen
Nitrogen is the main element of protein in found in the buds and
young branches and new roots. It is used mainly to promote
vegetative growth.
The ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C/N ratio) in the plants indicates its
maturity condition. Nitrogen is also concerned with the flower
differentiation of the fruit trees.
c) Phosphorus
41
This is an essential element of the nucleus. Its concentration is in
cell division and plant growth. Its deficiency may result in fruit trees
showing dark green, blue green or red-purple leaves especially at
the midrib and petioles. Stunted growth and slowness in root and
flower development are also of the effects of phosphorus
deficiency.
d) Potassium
Potassium plays an important role in the carbohydrate synthesis. It
helps in the building up of sugars, starch and fibre in the fruits.
Water stress, pest and diseases which cause the reduction of number of leaves
(reducing the sink area) will weaken the fruit trees. Eventually this will degrade
quality of the fruit and affects flower differentiation in the next fruiting season.
Multiplying numbers of fruit trees is the initial step to promote fruit growing.
Usually the cheapest method of plant propagation is using seed, but in fruit they
42
may have a great variation of progeny through sexual propagation. Vegetative
propagation has to be applied in fruit trees:-
a. Sexual Propagation
The simplest and commonly used method of raising plants is by seed. The
disadvantage is that the new plants tend to have genetical variations to
mother plant. It is used to produce rootstock plants in fruit trees.
b. Asexual Propagation
The production of new plants from vegetative plant parts e.g., stem, roots,
shoots, buds, branches and leaves. It is effective method of producing
large numbers of planting material of identical genotype and phenotype to
parent plants.
(i) Cuttings
Cuttings are pieces of stems, roots, leaves that are removed from parent
plant and placed in an environment that promotes their development into
complete plants.
Cuttings are able to produce new roots and shoots from cell differentiation
e.g., cassava.
Types of Grafting
There are several types of grafting and they vary with types of plants
grafted. Below are some commonly used grafting ways:-
Splice Grafting
43
Side Grafting
Approach Grafting
44
Budding
Budding is a special form of grafting where a single bud is joined on a
prepared rootstock.
Types of Budding
T-Cutting
Inverted T-Cutting
Patch Budding
45
(iii) Layering
Layering is the production of individual new plants where the branch is
made to produce rots on the notched or girdled part before being finally
detached from mother plant.
Types of Layering
Trench or Serpentine
Mound Layering
46
Air Layering
Family: Rutaceae
47
Citrus paradisi - Grape fruit
Citrus aurantium - Sour or Seville orange
Citrus aurantifolia - Lime
Citrus grandis and rootstock- Shaddock (Pomelo)
CULTIVARS
Choice of cultivars is determined by area, as well as by common preference,
export or processing requirements.
Rootstocks
The important requirements for a citrus rootstock are the following:-
High degree of polyembryony
Good union with the main cultivar
Ability to grow on various soils
Tolerance to drought
Tolerance to virus, fungus and nematodes
1) Rough Lemon: Lost commonly adapted a wide range of soil types, makes a
quick growing tree resistant to Tristeza virus, but produces fruits of poor
quality than other rootstocks.
2) Sour Oranges: Resistant to Gummosis, but susceptible to Tristeza virus.
Fruits produced on this rootstock are of high quality, thin skinned and juicy. It
is a good rootstock for lemons, grape fruit and sweet oranges where Tristeza
is not a problem.
48
3) Sweet Orange: Shallow rooted and suited only to well-drained rich soils.
Resistant to Tristeza but susceptible to Gummosis.
4) Trifoliate Orange: More tolerant to cold weather, but susceptible to exocurtis.
Resistant to Gummosis, tolerant to Tristeza and waterlogged areas
conditions. Produces dwarf early bearing tree.
5) Rough Lemon: Rough lemon is universally used at present in Malawi.
MORPHOLOGY
Stem
1. Small trees or young twigs are angled in shape, green color and then
become cylindrical and dark brown when mature.
2. There are spines at leaf axils especially on young twigs and seedling
trees. Older branches and budded trees are often spineless.
3. Seedling trees are upright but budded trees are more spreading in
growth.
Leaf
1. The leaves of citrus have transparent oil glands, with distinctive
smell.
2. Citrus leaves are ever green, one leaf can stay on the trees for about
3 to 4 years.
3. It is unfoliolate compound leaf type wirred petiole with the leaflet
making articulations.
The shape of leaf is important to diagnose citrus cultivars.
Flower
1. All citrus flowers have sweet smell at anthesis.
2. The color is white but lemons are purplish.
3. The inflorescences occur at leaf axil or at the end of a branch. They
are single like grape fruit or racemes as in sweet orange.
Fruit
1. Sizes of citrus fruits are variable. They range from 150 grams (lime)
to 1.5 kilograms (shaddock).
2. Citrus fruits are formed by parthenocarpy.
3. The peel has oil glands, yellow or orange color.
4. There are 8 to 12 segments of spindle-shaped juice sacs that are
covered by albedos.
Seed
Citrus seed is polyembryonic, one seed may contain many embryos.
Nucellar embryo is the same genotype as the mother plant.
49
IMPORTANCE
Citrus fruits are eaten fresh and also processed to make juice and marmalade.
Oil extracted from the skin is used in pharmaceutical industries. Citrus fruits are
high content in Vitamin C; a soft drink made from a citrus fruit gives a big
business in the world.
ECOLOGICA REQUIREMENTS
Temperature
Requirements are different from cultivar to cultivar. Optimum temperature is
25oC to 30oC but the maximum and minimum temperatures can be 30 oC
and 13oC, respectively.
Rainfall
Between 1, 000 and 1, 400 mm is suitable for citrus fruit growing.
Soil
Citrus trees can grow well on a wide range of soil types. They prefer well-
drained and aerated soils. Organic matter application is helpful on clay soils.
Irrigation in the dry season is also important when growing on sandy soils.
RAISING SEEDLINGS
Seed Preparation
1. Fruits from healthy mother plants for rootstocks are taken. Sowing
the seeds when they are still fresh is necessary. Citrus seeds will
lose their viability rapidly. Keeping fresh citrus seeds in moist
sawdust, sand or charcoal at 10OC can store the seeds for 2 weeks.
2. Hot water treatment at 52oC for 10 minutes is required for
disinfection.
Management
1. They will germinate in 25 – 35 days after sowing.
2. Mulching and shading are necessary.
3. Water the beds twice a day.
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4. Liquid fertilizer (Nitrogen) application depends on the condition of
growth. 2 – 4 times in 2 months is required.
5. Shade the beds in the early stages of growth especially later in the
day.
Weed Control
Weed control is essential at both the seedbeds and nursery beds.
Budding
Nine months after transplanting or 12 months after sowing, the seedlings
are big enough for budding. Another 12 months after budding, the seedlings
are ready for planting to an orchard.
PLANTING
The spacing depends on cultivar and cultivation system. Grape fruit trees are
more spreading than orange, it therefore needs wider spacing. The following
spacing is recommended:-
FIELD MANAGEMENT
Cultivation
Shallow hoeing must be practiced when weeding.
Irrigation
Lack of water will cause flower and fruit abortion (dropping), therefore
irrigation is important during this period.
Fertilizer Application
At juvenile stage, it is done every 3 months and during the fruit bearing
stage, twice a year.
51
4-5 1125g 225g 225g
(Fruit bearing)
Time of Application;
Two-thirds of the Nitrogen, all the Potash and all the Phosphate should be
applied in June. The remaining nitrogenous fertilizer should be applied in
November. An application of compost every year is beneficial.
Pruning
In juvenile stage pruning is used to have a good shape. On fruit bearing trees,
only the general pruning is done in May/June.
Lemons should be pruned to maintain the height which is used for easy
harvesting.
HARVESTING
The first economic crop can e expected 5 – 6 years after planting. Citrus fruits
can be harvested when they are mature. The colour may change or remain
green.
Hold the fruit and cut the stalk to the shoulder with a snub-nosed scissors. Don’t
pull the fruit when harvesting. Any damage can cause fungal infection the fruits
deteriorate rapidly. Don’t harvest fruits in rainy days or when fruits are wet.
Lining the containers and handling with care are important to avoid bruising the
fruit.
PESTS
1. Citrus Aphid (Toxoptera citrucidus)
Clusters of small black or brown-bodied insects are found under leaves
and young shoots. They suck the plant sap and cause distortion of the
leaves. Honey dew (a sticky liquid produced by the aphids) and sooty
mould is often present. Aphids also carry virus diseases from one plant
to another.
52
Control
Spray with Malathion, Rogor E40 or Diazinon.
2. Scale Insects
Swmall, flat, scale-like insects with no visible legs, which attach
themselves firmly to the leaves, branches and fruit. They are often
associated with honey dew, black, sooty mould; ants may be present.
Control
Malthion and white oil.
Diazinon and white oil.
3. Mites
Mites are of various types. These tiny pests attack the growing
shoots, twigs, leaves and flower buds become deformed. Fruits are
also affected.
Control
As soon as signs of attack are seen, spray with Dicofol, Rogor E40 or
Sulphur.
Control
Spray a poison bait onto to the fruit trees every week. The bait should
be from;
Malathion 25% WP - 35 grams
or Dipteran 50% WP - 20 grams
Water - 20 litres
Sugar - 1.4 kgs
Field hygiene; all fallen fruit should be collected twice a week and
buried deeply.
53
Control
Spray with Malathion or Labyacid.
Field hygiene; pick all infested fruits.
Control
If there are not too many caterpillars remove them by hand and kill them.
If the trees are heavily infested spray with Labyacid, Malathion or
Diazinon.
DISEASES
1. Armillaria Root Rot (Armillaria mellea)
Symptoms
Yellowing of the foliage, defoilation and dieback. Whole tree declines
slowly and eventually dies. In the later stages, cracks appear in the bark
at the base of the tree and white sheets of fungus can usually be seen
between the bark and the wood.
Control
Carefully clean all woody vegetation before planting and ring bark the
trees. The spread of the fungus can sometimes be prevented by digging
a trench around the infected tree.
Symptoms
Dark water soaked appearance of bark accompanied by gum exudation.
Control
Use of resistant rootstocks and care in irrigation and drainage can
control the disease.
3. Virus Diseases
i) Tristeza
54
Tristeza causes gumming of the bud union and subsequent quick
decline of the tree spread by citrus aphid. Only serious where sweet
oranges are budded on sown orange stock.
ii) Exocortis
This is not found in trees growing on rough lemon stocks, but may
become serious in trees growing on trifoliate orange stocks. Spread by
using infected bud wood and cause stunting of the trees.
iii) Greening
Fruit on diseases trees remain small and drops early, it is of poor quality
and a bitter flavour. Severely affected trees are stunted. Sparsely
foliated and often show considerable die back. Leaf symptoms are
similar to those of certain mineral deficiencies. The disease is
transmitted by an insect, citrus psylla, which resembles a winged aphid.
It will jump when disturbed.
2. Mango production
Family: Anacardiaceae
Introduction
Mango represents a popular and widely grown fruit in Malawi and other tropical
countries. The fruit has many uses which include fresh eating, cooking, freezing
or drying. The fruit can be used at all its stages of development. It is the chief
source of vitamins A, B1, B2 and C as well as calcium.
Ecological requirements
Climate:
Mango grows well under a wide range of climatic conditions but its cultivation is
well appreciated within the temperatures of about 25oC. In areas of high
elevation above 600m, the production is minimised. And where temperatures are
above 42oC and below 10oC it will cease growing.
It does well in places with rainfall range of 750 – 3000mm per annum with a dry
season. Any rain during flowering is considered detrimental as it negatively
affects pollination
Soils
55
Mangoes do well in deep, well drained soils of loamy texture. The pH should be
between 5.5 – 7.
Rootstock preparation.
Seeds can be obtained locally even from the local mangoes. However once
seeds are collected and the fresh has been removed or eaten, the husk should
be left in the sun to dry out for one to two days so that it is less slippery when
handling. Such seeds should be sown with a week since keeping mango seed for
more than two weeks will reduce its viability.
Remove the husk with a sharp knife, taking care not to injure the seed inside.
Sow the seeds in either germination (seedbeds) beds or in polythene pots. If
seeds are sown in germination beds, once they reach 5cm high (before brown
leaves turn green), seedlings should be carefully lifted and transplanted into
polythene pots.
The rootstock seedlings are ready for grafting when they are about 8 -9 months
old and are about a pencil size thick.
Scion preparation
Mango grows best from the terminal buds. Select terminals with mature buds and
mature leaves. Collect graft-wood with bracts covering the terminal buds
beginning to open.
The best scion is collected from tree which are about to flush (flower). Cut 10cm
long pieces of scions from the tip of the branch and remember to remove the
leaves. Scions can usually keep longer if kept in moist and cool conditions.
However for good results, use them while fresh.
Grafting
This can be done throughout the year but the best period in Malawi is during the
month of August through January so long the rootstock and scion are of good
size.
The splice or whip and wedge are the commonly used methods in Malawi.
56
Procedure
Using a grafting knife, make cuts of 2.5cm long on both scion and rootstock.
Place the scion in a position so that the cambium of each piece joins as much
as possible.
Tie the joint with a plastic tape
Place the grafted plants in polythene houses to maintain humidity to promote
proper union for easy sprouting.
Transfer the grafts to the shed area for hardening off before planting them in
the Orchard
Planting
Mango trees should be planted in December and January when the ground has
received enough moisture. Dig holes of 60cm in diameter and 90cm deep. Fill the
hole the top soil mixed with top soil and compost. When planting, open the
middle of the filled hole just enough to accommodate the roots of the plant. Put
the plant in the middle and hold it upright so that the soil level in the pot is in the
same level with the surrounding soil.
Start filling the hole with soil by working it carefully until it is covered. Soil should
be mounted 10cm higher than the ground level since soil will be settling. Firm the
soil around the roots.
Remember to plant trees at the same height or depth in which they were in the
pots or nursery. The planting should not be done so deep as to bury the graft
union in the soil or high as to expose the upper roots.
Deflowering
A grafted mango will start bearing in the first or second year. It is recommended
to deflower the tree to avoid early fruit bearing which might deprive the tree of
thorough vegetative growth.
Irrigation
Successful mango production is often associated with areas of well defined dry
season particularly during winter. Irrigation is necessary from flowering until the
on set of the wet periods. To induce heavy natural flowering, withheld irrigation
for 3 months prior to flowering.
57
Irrigate both young and old trees at a fortnight interval during the dry season with
20 litres of water per tree.
Fertilizer Application
Mangoes are not heavy feeders, but still there is need for some nitrogen at least
60g per tree annually. The fertilizer requirement will increase with the age of the
tree and so add 50g each year. The most recommended fertilizers are those
containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Half the quantity of this fertilizer
should be applied in November/December and the other half in February/March.
If there is no clear data on crop yields and soil type the following programme can
be pursued basing on the age of the tree.
1 250 125
2 500 250
3 750 375
4 1000 500
5 1250 625
6 1500 750
7 1750 875
8 2000 1000
9 2250 1125
10 2500 1250
11 2750 1500
12 3000 1625
13 3250 1750
14 3500 1875
15 3750 2000
16+ 4000 2000
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Copper: Copper-oxy-chloride (50% copper) at 200g/100 litres water
Manganese: Manganese sulphate at 200g/100 litres water
Magnesium: Magnesium sulphate at 200g/100 litres water
Boron: Borax at 100g/100 litres water or Solubor at 50g/100
litres water
Varieties:
Apart from the local mangoes, some improved cultivars which have done
extremely well in Malawi include Tommy Atkins, Harden, Irwin, Davis Harden,
Keitt and Kent.
Mid-season varieties
Davis Haden Late November to Late December.
Anderson Late November to Late December
Late varieties
Keitt Late January to late February.
1. Tommy Atkins: the fruit has very attractive colour, excellent flavour and
firmness and stores well. It resistant to most common diseases and the
fruit weighs about 0.9 Kg when mature.
2. Haden: has very good fruits but not juicy. Fruit may weigh up to 0.6kg. has
good flavour and texture, matures early and is commonly grown in
Mangochi. It stores well and good for distant market.
59
3. Irwin: fruit weigh up 0.5kg. it is sweet, juicy and firm with good quality. It
ripe evenly and is storable.
5. Kent: has even ripening but gets uneven as harvesting tails off. The fruit
is good and stores well. Weighs up to 0.9kg. it is susceptible to bacterial
rot.
6. Keitt: requires early picking once the background green colour begins to
fade to avoid cracking problems. The fruit is better if it ripens off the tree.
May weigh up to 0.8kg.
8. Anderson: has large fruits of up to 1.5kg. has high acid to sugar ratio.
Fruit cracking is common due to high water content.
9. Fascel: fruit weighs up to 0.6kg and has high acid sugar ratio. Fruits ripen
evenly and stores well.
10. Zill: fruits ripe evenly and they are sweet but do not store well since they
become soft a few hours after harvesting. Can weigh up to 0.5kg
11. Boribo: fruit weigh up to 0.5kg and has long harvesting period because
few fruits ripe at a time. The is unattractive the fruits are odorous and are
disease resistant.
12. Ngowe: an odorous variety which ripens from the bottom to the top like
Anderson. Fruits soften few hours after harvesting and may weigh up to
1.0kg.
13. Smith: large well coloured to mid season fruit. Good flesh colour and
texture.
Diseases
60
This is a fungal disease characterised by wilting of new growths and poor
fruit setting. It is more common in wet weather. Control by applying
Dithane, Zineb and maneb as fungicides. At the rate of 300g/100litre of
water. Apply every three weeks after blossoming and after the fruits have
reached full size.
Pests
1. Fruit fly
The maggots of the fly damage the fruit which rot and drop. Best control is
by regular collecting and burying of all dropped fruit.
2. Mango weevil
The larva enter the fruit at flowering stage leaving no external sign of
entry. They attack and damage the seed. Fruits will often drop
prematurely. Attacked fruits will rot in storage or in transportation.
3. Scales
These appear on leaves and fruits. They can be controlled by spraying
Dimethoate 85g per 100litres water, Parathion 15%wp at 45g per 100
litres water. Spray every 3 to 4 weeks.
3. Guava Production
Family: Myrtaceae
Introduction:
It is an importance fruit in the tropics and has high vitamin C and also a rich
source of vitamin A.
Plant Morphology
Stem: it is a shrubby tree which grows up to 10m tall. It has smooth bark which
peels off in small flakes
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Leaves: they are arranged opposite with depressed veins and are slightly
pubescent.
Flowers: they are axillary with 4-5 white petals and numerous stamens.
Fruits: has fruit sizes ranging to 4-12cm diameter with calyx lobes at blossom
end. The exterior of the fruit is fleshy and the centre consists of a seedy pulp.
Soils: guava can tolerate drought, low-fertility soils as well water logged soils of
pH values ranging from 4.5 to 8.2.
Orchard management
Propagation
Most guava trees are propagated through seed although this tends to produce
seedy fruit of variable quality. Seeds will normally germinate within 2-3weeks and
should be planted when it reaches 6 months (30cm tall)
For commercial production, it is advisable that clonal plants which are known to
produce good-quality fruits should planted and these can be propagated
vegetatively.
The most efficient way to propagate a large number of plants is by chip budding
with greenwood buds from selected cultivars onto seedling rootstocks. The
operation can be done any time during warm season using seedlings which have
stems of at least 5mm in diameter.
In some cases softwood cuttings may also root fairly under residual moisture or
mist if treated with 200ppm (parts per million) of IBA (Indolebutyric acid) which
acts as a plant hormone for fast root development.
Planting
For better results, plants should be spaced at 6m x 6m. The planting holes
should be 60cm deep by 45-50cm in diameter.
Once planted, the fruits will begin to bear in 1-3years. and they may continue
doing so up to 30years.
Fertilizer application
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Apply 650g of Double Super Phosphate fertilizer and 400g Sulphate of ammonia
per tree at least twice a year during rains. 2.5-3kg compost or khola manure per
tree at a time of fertilizer application is also recommended to boost water holding
capacity as well as nutrient availability.
Cultivars
The most common known cultivars include the following
Apple colour
Has a medium sized fruit, slightly ovate with deep pink skin. The white flesh is
creamy with fewer seeds. A good cultivar for canning.
Chittidar
It is white fleshed with fruits of various sizes but of round ovate. Good for
canning.
Lucknow 49
Has medium to large sized fruits which white are cream white. The flesh is
thick with high pectin content but few seeds. Good for making jelly and juice.
Safeda
Has thin skin fruit of medium size and white fleshed but few seeds. Good
cultivar for juice making.
Diseases
Diseases are generally not a problem in most areas of Africa although some leaf
and fruit spots are noticed in some orchards
Pests
1. Fruit fly ( ceratitis capitata)
The insect lay eggs in the fruit and may cause a very serious damage to the fruit.
To avoid its attack, harvest fruits when fully mature but before they completely
ripe. Collect all the fruits on the ground and burry them.
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Use of Fenthion (Lebaycid), Dipterex, or carbaryl twice at 10day interval is
helpful.
Harvesting
Picking should be done when the fruits turn yellow and should ripen off the
plant. For local markets, keep fruits in cool environment up until all are sold. For
distant markets, they should be kept at least within temperature range of 7 –
10oC and this will enable them to store for 3-4weeks so long as the relative
humidity (RH) is within 85 90%. Fruit may also be dried and made into powder
as vitamin C supplement.
Depending on variety, yields of up to 700 to 1,500 fruits (50 – 80kg) per tree can
be realised.
Family : Caricaceae
Introduction:
The fruit is a rich source of Vitamin A. it also contains high percentage of papain
which is a proteolytic enzyme used in meat tenderising, brewing, tannining and
textile manufacture.
Plant Morphology
Stem: the stem is usually a non-branching trunk which may reach up to 10m in
height but on average it may be between 4-5m tall.
Leaves: has palmately lobed leaves of up to 75cm across with hollow petioles of
up to 100cm long.
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Flowers: primarily papaya is dioecious (having male and female flowers on a
separate plants) however, some cultivars are known to be hermaphrodite
(having male and female reproductive parts on plant). The flowers are
tubular, fragrant, white to orange and about 2-5cm across. They are borne
on a long, pendulous inflorescence. Female flowers are larger than males
and they are sessile (without a petiole) on the trunk. Hermaphrodite
flowers are borne in the same manner as female flowers but they are
located at the tip of the male panicles.
Fruit: it is a berry with green rind which changes to yellow when ripe in most
cultivars. The inside flesh is yellow or pink.
Seed: they are black, and are located in the central cavity surrounded by a
gelatinous material.
Climate
It is tolerant to drought conditions once the crop is established. However, in
areas with pronounced dry season, little fruit will be set except during wet
season. Irrigation is known to increase production for this crop but excessive
irrigation may also reduce the flavour of the fruit. The best irrigation method is
flood and furrow. Is also favours moderate wind to avoid mechanical damage to
the tree.
Soils
Papaya grows in a wide range of soils provided they have adequate drainage.
Orchard management
Propagation
It propagated through seed which germinates 2-4weeks after planting. For better
results, seeds should be collected from superior cultivars such as ‘Solo’ which is
regarded as the most commercial cultivar.
Seeds should be obtained from hermaphrodite plants which have been self
pollinated or crossed with another hermaphrodite which may result in producing
up to 67% hermaphrodite offspring and 33 % female offspring. On the other
hand, dioecious cultivars produce 1:1 ratio of male and female plants resulting in
having 4 - 5 times as many male plants as are needed for pollination
Planting
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The trees should be spaced at 1.8m x 1.8m to 2.4m x 2.4m apart. Holes should
be dug 90cm in diameter and 90cm deep. Fill them with top soil mixed with 5 –
10kg compost.
For direct planting, plant 4seeds per station which will be thinned to one once
flowering has commenced and plant sex is defined. One male tree for every 12
female trees is necessary in dioecious trees for proper pollination but in
hermaphrodite cultivars male trees are not necessary.
Usually the trees will begin to bear within a year except in varieties like Solo
which take up to 18months before they start bearing. The crop is capable of
giving profitable fruits for 2-3 years and after that the yields start to decline and
the tree grows taller beyond reach. It is advisable to remove the trees and make
some replants. 30 fruits per tree per year is regarded as minimum acceptable
yield levels.
Common cultivars
1. Solo: small fruited variety that produces no males. The fruits are shallow
farrowed and of pear shaped which may 0.5 – 1.0kg with excellent quality.
Once the fruit is ripe, the skin is orange –yellow and the flesh is golden-
orange. It is very sweet particularly when grown in warmer environments.
2. Waimanalo: it is a Solo selection with large fruits which are firm. The fruits
have long storage life.
3. Sunrise: another Solo selection which has fruits with pink flesh.
4. Bluestem: (hermaphrodite)
5. Graham: (dioecious)
6. Honey Gold: (female, vegetatively propagated)
Fertilizer application
Papaya is very responsive to fertilizers and recommended to properly apply
fertilizers to enhance growth. The application can be based on soil type but as a
general recommendation, 0.9 – 1.4kg of 23:21:0 + 4S in combination with 3kg
compost per tree per year is helpful. However this should be divided into two-
three applications in a year.
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This is common in sand soils as apposed to soils with high moisture and
fertility. They cause galls or knots on the roots thereby reducing growth and
yield potential more especially in dry, hot conditions.
Best control is by putting mulch around the base of the tree to maintain moist
conditions within the root zones.
Diseases
Bunchy Top
It caused by various transmitted by homopterous insects. The affected plants
will have lower yields or no fruit at all.
The best control by removing the infected plants to avoid further spreading of
the disease.
Harvesting
Harvest fruits when they start showing signs of yellowing especially for distant
markets. Normally they should be stored at temperatures between 10 – 13oC .
Lower temperatures will cause chilling injuries and may fail to ripe properly.
5. Banana Production
Family : Musaceae
Botanical name:
Banana- Musa sapentum
Planatin- Musa paradisiaca
Introduction:
Banana is a sweet fruit often eaten raw as dessert but the plantain has more
starch and is usually cooked and eaten as a staple food in some parts Africa
including Malawi. chopped pseudostem and flower buds are supplementary feed
to animals.
Plant morphology
Root: it has fleshy adventitious roots of about 5-8cm thick and 75-140cm long.
These found on shallow surface about 15cm of the top soil layer.
Stem: underground stem is the true stem referred to as a ‘corm’ where the
leaves are attached and produces the axil buds known as suckers at later stage.
But the aerial trunk is called a Pseudo-stem since it is made of tightly clasped
leaf sheaths.
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Leaves: leaves have a U-petiole and the leaf blade (lamina) is oval with sizes of
about 1.5 – 5m long and 70 – 100cm wide.
Flowers: the inflorescence is from a transformed growing point in the heart of the
plant. Normally banana flowers have the following parts;
Axis (rachis): on which the individual flowers are borne and attach on the
nodes
Bract: a cover on each node to protect the flower cluster. Once the fruit
start to develop, the bracts open and drop off.
Flower cluster: usually there are 12-22 flowers on each node of the axis.
This first node may have 28 flowers. These flowers are categorised as
follows
Female flowers (pistillate flower) -these occur in the first 5-15
clusters. They have large ovary which may develop fruit without
pollination or fertilization (parthenocarpy)
Fruit: fruit is described into bunch, hand and finger. A bunch may have 5-11
hands and each hand may 12-28fingers.
Climate
It a tropical crop which grows well with temperature range of 27 – 38oC. the area
must have good rainfall of about 800 – 2000mm which should be evenly
distributed throughout the year. During dry season, irrigation is essential to
prolong the growth. In areas of strong winds, windbreaks will be needed since it
is a shallow rooted crop.
Soil
It grows well in wide of soils so long as the clay content is below 40% with good
depth. The soil should well drained and having good fertility. The pH value should
be 6.0 – 7.5.
Orchard management
Propagation
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Bananas are vegetatively propagated by using suckers, corm or through tissue
culture. The suckers are also categorised as follows
Sword suckers- those having narrow, sword-like leaves with a corm of
about 12cm in diameter. They are considered as the best planting material
due to their vigour.
Maiden suckers- these are big suckers which are about to flower and are
more than 1.5m tall
Water suckers- small suckers with broad leaves. Not good for planting.
Planting
Spacing will vary depending on the cultivar. However, for most dwarf types like
Dwarf Cavendish (Kabuthu) use 2m x 2m or 3.3m x 3.3m. and for taller cultivars
like Giant Williams use 3m x 3m or 3.5m x 3.5m.
The best planting time is during rainy season and in Malawi is this around
December to January. When the soil are still moist.
Fertilizer application
Apply fertilizer by broadcasting at least 50cm away from the planting station.
Fertilizer should be applied twice a year i.e. at the beginning of rains
(November/December) and second application towards the end of the rains in
March. Each time apply 200g CAN, 250g SSP, and 175g Muriate of potash.
Banana requires more potash for strong pseudo-stem and also enrich sweetness
of the fruits. Mulch the station after applying by a layer of grass or compost.
Pruning
This is an important operation in a banana orchard in order to provide space for
bigger bunches of good quality. Usually leave three plants per station one at fruit
bearing (mother), the other one at almost half the height of the mother (daughter)
and the other one at a stage of newly shooting sucker (grand daughter). Using
the rotating method when pruning to maintain the original stations.
Propping
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This id done to support the plant from strong winds and also the bunch weight
from falling.
Deflowering
Male flowers are cut at the flower rachis at the node of neutral flowers to avoid
wastage of plant nutrients.
Bagging
This is where the plastic bag or paper is used to cover the bunch when the last
hand starts developing and fingers are turning upwards. This will protect the fruit
from cold, dust, sunburn, chemical residuals, insects, birds and cigar-end tip rot
disease.
Cultivars
Bananas- the common cultivars include dwarf Cavendish (Kabuthu), Giant
William, Giant Cavendish Mulanje, Katsinzi, Magombo, Nyanga za insa,
Kholobowa, Zomba Red and Zambia.
Plantains- two known cultivars include; Ngewo (Khazanga) and Ndoki (Zeru)
Pests
Banana weevil (Cosmopolites sordidus German)
It is a brown to black beetle of about 12-14mm long with pronounced snot. The
adult feeds on the plant especially pseudo-stem during night and lay eggs in the
upper of the corm causing lodging of stems and die prematurely
Control by applying Aldrin and Dieldrin at the base of the station or by spraying
Chlordane or parathion and practising field hygiene.
Best control is by treating the planting material and also practising rotation for
every five-year period.
Diseases
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It is caused by a fungus called (Mycosphaerella muscola). The disease is
characterised by spot and patched lesions of brown-black on the leaves
causing wilting and death of the infected leaves.
Bunchy Top
It virus disease transmitted by aphids. It causes green speckles on the
secondary veins on the under side of lamina, mid-rib and petiole. Later the
leaves become brittle and stunted forming a bunchy of leaves. Can be
controlled by removing and burning of the infected plants.
Cigar-end-rot
Caused by a fungus Venticillum theobromas. It mainly attacks the flowers
and the infection may slowly spread along the finger and cigar-ash like stuff
will appear at the end of the fruit. Can be controlled by spraying fungicides
before bagging.
Harvesting
Bananas are considered mature when fruit fingers are fully developed and ridges
become flat. The colour turns from dark green to light or pale green.
INTRODUCTION
Spices are aromatic vegetable products of tropical origin primarily used for
seasoning or garnishing foods and beverages. In ancient times, they were valued
as basic components of incense, embalming preservatives, ointments, perfumes,
antidotes against poison, cosmetics and medicines. Little were as food. It was
during the first century A.D that spices found their way into the kitchen.
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Importance of spices
They give an agreeable flavour and aroma (piquancy or tang) to otherwise
monotonous or insipid food, particularly in the tropics where it consists mainly
of starch grains or roots, thereby adding greatly to the pleasure of eating.
They stimulate the appetite and increase the flow of the gastric juices and for
this reason they are termed as food ‘accessories’ or ‘adjuncts’.
They increases the rate of perspiration thereby helping creating the cooling
effect of the body.
The national aim on spices is to introduce and encourage spices production in all
suitable areas to satisfy local as well as export demand.
1. Ginger production
Family : Zingiberaceae
Introduction:
Ginger consists of dried and digitatively branched rhizomes known as hands or
races. It was one of the earliest Orient spices known to Europe obtained by the
Greeks and Romans through Arab traders.
Botanical characteristics
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Roots:- it has fine fibrous roots with hard laterally compressed, and often
palmately branched rhizome.
Stem:- these are annual leafy shoots are, erect, usually 60-90cm tall and are
closely invested by the sheathing of the leaf bases.
Flowers:- it has pale yellow flowers borne singly in the axils of large greenish
bracts of the spike rising directly from the rootstock
Environmental requirements
Climate:
The is mainly cultivated in the tropics with altitude of about 1500m above sea
level. With a constantly warm and moist conditions. It requires enough sunshine
and rainfall of about 1,500-3,000mm.
Soils
It is a soil exhausting crop requiring heavy fertilization. It favours sandy, clay or
lateritic loam soils.
Field management
Propagation
The crop is propagated by portions of the rhizome 2.5 – 5cm long with at least
one viable bud.
Planting
The crop can be planted on either beds or ridges. Beds should 120m wide and
20 -25cm high with a path of at least 50cm wide. Apply decomposed manure at
the rate of 5-10kg per square metre.
Plant using fingers or setts with the first rains. Space them at 30cm between
rows and 25cm between stations. Wider spacing is adopted for the broad leafed
varieties.
Fertilizer application
Basal dress using Single Superphosphate at the rate of 75kg per hectare by
applying 4.5g per 5-metre row length.
Top-dressing after 1-2 months from planting by using 60kg/hectare CAN at the
rate of 5.4g per 3-metre row length or Urea at 4.2g per 4-metre of row length.
During the top dressing, Muriate of Potash should also be added at least 50kg
per hectare using 4.5g per 2m row length.
The second dose should be applied using 60kg CAN or 35kg Urea per hectare.
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Pest and Disease control
Rhizome rot
It is a fungal disease caused by a fungus known as Fusarium oxysporum. The
disease causes severe rhizome rot and pseudostem may collapse. It is mainly
exacerbated by wet weather. Best control is by avoiding mechanical damage to
the rhizomes particularly during weeding and other field operations.
Nematodes
At present the most common pests in ginger production is the nematode attack.
These nematodes can best be controlled by strict crop rotation and also by
treating the rhizomes (planting material) in water of 48oc for 20 minutes.
Harvesting
This is done 9-10months after planting when the leaves begin to turn yellow.
Harvest by removing the roots and the adhering soil from the rhizomes.. usually
the rhizomes are pale yellow, faintly orange or yellow-orange in colour externally
but greenish-yellow inside.
Processing
A. Dried or cured ginger.
There are two important grades of dried ginger i.e. scraped/peeled (known
as uncoated) and unscraped (coated). The scraped ginger is made by
carefully scraping the outer layer and then dry it in the sun for 5 6days.
This is the finest ginger and has very delicate aroma and flavour. For the
un-scraped ones, the rhizome is plunged into the boiling water for few
minutes (scalded) and then sun dried. Sometimes lime is added to
improve colour and appearance and also protects the spice from mildew
and other pests. The rhizome can also be bleached with sulphur fumes.
The characteristic aroma of ginger is due to a volatile oil (ginger oil), while the
pungent taste is due to the presence of non-volatile oleoresin, gingerin.
Excessive scrapping of the rhizome should be discouraged since the minute sacs
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containing the essential oil and resin are distributed throughout the rhizome
mainly in the epidermal tissue.
2. Turmeric production
Family : Zingeberaceae
Introduction:
Turmeric is a robust perennial herb and is one of the most important and ancient
Indian spices. Commercial turmeric is from the dried and processed rhizome of
curcuma longa indigenous to southern Asia where it has been highly esteemed
as a condiment, dyestuff and medicine since time in memorial.
Botanical characteristics
Roots: it is a thickened rhizome ‘bulb’ bearing a number of cylindrical primary,
secondary or even tertiary rhizomes (fingers).
Leaves: leaves are large, broad, lanceolated and bright green in colour with long
leaf stalks and acuminate apex.
Flowers: they are pale yellow, borne in a dense but short spike
Environmental requirements
Climate
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The crop thrives best in hot, moist tropical climate with altitude of up to 1500m
above sea level. And the annual rainfall should exceed 1,000mm.
Field management
Propagation
The plant is propagated vegetatively through the use of either bulbs or fingers as
planting material.
Planting
Planting
The crop can be planted on either beds or ridges. Beds should 120m wide and
20 -25cm high with a path of at least 50cm wide. Apply decomposed manure at
the rate of 5-10kg per square metre.
Plant using fingers or rhizomes with the first rains. Space them at 30-60cm
between rows and 25cm between stations. Wider spacing is adopted for the
broad leafed varieties.
Fertilizer application
Basal dress using Single Superphosphate at the rate of 75kg per hectare by
applying 4g per one-metre row length.
Top-dressing should come after 1-2 months from planting by using 75kg/hectare
CAN or Urea at the same rate of 4g per one-metre row length. This can be
repeated 2-3 months later.
Harvesting
The crop is harvested in about 9 – 10 months after planting when the lower
leaves develops a yellow colour. The main rhizome, along with the finger-like
offshoots, is carefully dug out by hand and fibrous roots are cut off.
Processing
Curing of turmeric is done by boiling the rhizomes in water over a slow fire until
they become soft and a few leaves should be added the cooking vessel to add
flavour.
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The cooked rhizomes are spread out in a thin layer in the sun for five to seven
days for drying. Finally they are polished by rotating them in a polishing drums.
The final product is then graded into ‘fingers’, ‘rounds’ and ‘splits’.
Cured and finished turmeric is deep yellow to orange in colour and has a
distinctive pungent flavour. The rhizomes are rough, hard and posses numerous
encircling ridge-like rings or annulations and often produce metallic sound when
broken.
The characteristics musky odour is due to the presence of essential oils (5-6%)
of which the main constituents are; d--phellandrene, d-sabinene, cineol,
borneol, zingiberene and sesquiterpenes. The colouring is due to curcumin.
Turmeric is mainly used for colouring and flavouring margarine, butter, cheese,
fruit drinks and beverages. It is used as a vegetable dye to a yellow colour to silk,
cotton and wool.
Medically it is used to aid digestion, as a tonic and a blood purifier. Once boiled
with milk and sugar, it is taken as a remedy for the common cold. Externally, its
application tends to suppress the unwelcome growth of hairs on ladies skin.
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