Heartee Crochet Guide
Heartee Crochet Guide
1
Contents
H E A R TEE
Version
Info & Measurement
Drawing inspiration from the trending heart cutout
designs and playful essence of Y2K baby tees, Heartee
came to life! Heartee flaunts not one, but two heart-shaped
cutouts - a subtle peekaboo heart in the front and a
striking, statement heart at the back, fashioning it as a
gracefully backless design. You can also play around with
the backless design by adding your personal touch to it!
Construction
Designed as a raglan top-down tee, Heartee allows
flexibility to tailor its length to your preference and there’s
no need to sew!
Part 1
Huge Appreciation To:
Photographer: Fakhry Mundzir - @fakhry.photo
Models: Stella - @stella_strktt | Claire - @claireriverland
Part 2
Testers:
Zoie @artist_zoievan | Ken - @burpingyarn | Isis - @
canogon_ | Erin - @ecizzy | Vicky - @ernili.crochet | Chelsea
- @etoile.threads | Alyssa - @hookedonalyssa | Jasmine -
@bugs.bundles | Kat - @katrochet | Kirsten - @kc.does |
Part 3
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T NT
Construction
Table of Contents
Part 1
Construction
Part 2
Part 2: Body Panel
Part 3
Part 3: Detailing
8 Part 4: Sleeves
Part 4
Lookbook
Lookbook
Version
pattern or any part of it for commercial purpose or give it to someone else
under any condition; resell, gifting, etc.
2. Recording tutorial videos or photos that is inspired by this piece are NOT al-
3. You are not permitted to use this pattern to teach for a crochet class.
5. You may sell the finished item or gift it to someone but make sure to give
Construction
credits to Morning Meadows as the designer and do not underprice them!
Part 1
This pattern is more of a guide where there are more explanatory paragraphs.
Those explanatory paragraph will be shown in black ink like this.
Crochet instructions like *hdc until you reach last st* will be shown in green ink.
Red ink means that it is an important note!
Part 2
Yellow highlighter means that it is a tip, you can follow them or not.
Blue ink means that you should refer to a picture.
There’s a page divider, in which the right side will be used for:
- my notes when making my version (my measurement and sts count in row x)
- you taking notes, especially during the freehand part
Part 3
There are some index pages and hyperlinks that can take you to certain pages of
the guide, you can find them on:
- bottom left and top right (Heart symbol) to take you to Table of Contents
Part 4
- most right of the page, just click the divider to go to that section.
There are some parts that require calculations, and to automatically calculate
them, you can access the Google Spreadsheet here.
Lookbook
SOLID COLOR
Version
Size XS:
Cotton-Cashmere by Katia
Construction
370gr / 525m using
100% Cotton
Part 1
STRIPES
Size S:
Cahlista by Scheepjes
Part 2
190gr / 343m using
Cahlista by Scheepjes
Part 3
For more versions, do check the lookbook to see the testers’ versions and how
they personalize their own Heartee!
Contents
Materials
- Yarn; DK weight recommended, but any fingering, DK, or aran can work
Version
- Crochet hook; 0.5mm smaller than what your yarn suggest
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
- Stitch Markers
Abbreviations
- ch = chain - fsc = foundation single crochet (tutorial link)
- st(s) = stitch(es) - sc = single crochet (tutorial link)
Construction
- dec = decrease - hdc = half double crochet (tutorial link)
- inc = increase - dc = double crochet (tutorial link)
- rep = repeat - sl st = slip stitch (tutorial link)
- to = turn over - fpdc = front post double crochet (tutorial link)
- yo = yarn over - bpdc = back post double crochet (tutorial link)
- fo = fasten off - sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
Part 1
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together
Measurements
M1 = Head circumference
Part 2
M2 = Shoulder to shoulder (shoulder blades)
M3 = Bust Circumference
M4 = Collarbone to Armpit
M5 = Armhole Circumference*
M6 = Desired length of sleeve
Part 3
Version
Info & Measurement
Construction
Part 1
The guide will be divided into 4 major parts, in which each part will break down more detailed con-
struction and its step.
Part 1 / Pink = Raglan construction base until the start of the back’s heart.
Part 2 / Green = Finishing the body panel (creating the front’s heart and finishing the back’s heart)
Part 3 / Orange = Details, including bottom and neckline ribbing, outline of the hearts, and ties.
Part 2
Part 4 / Blue = Sleeves
Part 3
Tip
This guide or pattern have a lot of explanation, so I would
recommend you to read through at least one whole part
(or section) of the guide before you start crocheting to
Part 4
Contents
Version
AR
Construction
Part 1
Part 2
In this part, we will be making the first few rows of the raglan tee.
1. Dark pink part which will act as the raglan base constuction and worked in rounds Part 3
Contents
Step 1: Foundation SC NOTES
Make a multiple of 4 fsc until you reach the M1 unstretched (Picture 1), when STITCH COUNTER
Version
stretched, make sure that it has to be at least 5cm longer (Picture 2). Orange-Purple: 108 fsc
Tip: Place a stitch marker on your first fsc. Yours:
NOTES
Yours:
Picture 1 Picture 2
Sl st to the first st (Picture 3 & 4), make sure that your fsc is not twisted!
Ch 1 & turn.
Construction
Tip: Try it on, make sure that it can go through your head and there are some it’s
not tight around the neck (allow some space for ribbings).
Part 1
Picture 3 Picture 4
Part 2
Don’t sl st as we are going to mark the raglan increase first. You can secure the
loop with st marker first.
Part 3
Part 4
join st
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Picture 5 Picture 6
1st st
This line that separate the body panel and sleeves NOTES
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will be referred as Raglan Increase. You want OP: 108 / 4 = 27sts,
your raglan increase starting point to sit around Picture 7 marking on 27th from
and 9).
Construction
Part 1
Part 2
Picture 9
The row join should fall on the middle back (Picture 10). Part 3
When worn, the 1st and 2nd Q should fall in the shoulder line (Picture 11). While
you’re trying it on, mark where you want your raglan increase to be, you want it
to sit around the collarbone area (Picture 11, purple & blue st markers).
Part 4
purple st marker
blue st marker
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Picture 10 Picture 11
Yours: y =
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Tip: The safe distance for y are around 5 -
1 2 345
15 sts. If you have bigger bust, you might 67
want to have less y sts.
From the pink st marker (1st and 3rd quarter mark), place a st marker to the
left and right for each (I use blue and purple st marker). All 4 should have y
distance from the pink. (Picture 13 & 14).
Construction
y sts y sts
1st quarter 3rd quarter
mark mark
y sts y sts
Part 1
Picture 13
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Picture 14
Blue marker indicates the raglan increase for the left front & back panel while
the purple marker indicates the raglan increase for the right front & back panel.
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Contents
Step 4: First Increase
NOTES
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Stitch Count Formulation OP:
a = (108/4) - 7] - 2 = 18
a = (Total sts / 4) - y - 2 b = 7 + 7 + 1 = 15
b=y+y+1 c = 108-(18x2)-(15x2)-4 = 38
c=
Construction
d=
Tip: before doing the next row, recount your sts to make sure that you have the IMPORTANT
right st count! Picture 15 is what the row should ended up like.
From this point, there will
be some calculations. If
Part 1
you can access this Google
matic calculator!
Part 2
Part 3
Picture 15
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
Hdc for a sts until you reach the stitch before the 1st purple marker.
Hdc, ch 1, hdc to the st that is marked (Picture 17).
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hdc, ch1, hdc
1st hdc Join 18th st
Hdc for b sts until you reach the stitch before the 2nd purple marker. STITCH COUNTER
*Hdc, ch 1, hdc to the marked st*
There’s an additional 8 sts
Hdc for c sts until you reach the stitch before the 1st blue marker, Rep **
Construction
of 1hdc + 1ch in each raglan
Hdc for b sts until you reach the stitch before the 2nd blue marker, Rep **
point (4 hdc + 4 chs).
Hdc for a sts until you reach the last st.
Sl st, Ch 1 & turn.
OP: 108 + 8 = 116 sts includ-
Part 1
is = fsc sts + 8 sts. b
b
Now, you have 4 point- sts sts
ers for the raglan in-
creases (Picture 18).
I would remove all the st
Part 2
markers at this point.
Picture 18
c sts
ROW COUNTER
+*Hdc into every st until you reach the ch 1 space, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] to the ch 1 space
Yours:
from the prev row*, rep * * until you do 4 [ ] in total, hdc into every st tuntil you
Row 1 = fsc
reach the last st. Sl st, ch 1 & turn.+
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Rep + + until your rows measure at 1.5 - 2” (Picture 20a), or it is sitting 2” above
your armpit (Picture 20b). When it has reached the length, fo.
Tip: pay attention to the direction so for the next row (Picture 21), we know which
direction to go when attaching the yarn in the next step.
Part 1
Part 2
Picture 21
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Version
markers, will be the middle part of
the heart cutout (Picture 22; 18 sts).
14 sts 14 sts
18 sts
On the sides (raglan inc until st
OP:
You can guesstimate but my golden rule so that the middle heart is not too
# sts of middle
big or small is:
= ((24 + 24)/3) = 16
The number of sts in the middle heart = ((a* + a*) / 3) +/- 2 or 3 sts
16 +/- 2 or 3 sts
The number of sts in one side = ((a* + a*) - number of sts in the middle heart) / 2 # of sts in the middle can
Construction
range between 13 - 19 sts.
a* = # of a sts on the current row.
Make sure that the number of sts in one side has at least a minimum of 9 sts I choose 18 sts, so
(start counting from the st after the ch). # of sts in one side
Place a st marker on each side where you want your middle heart to be (Picture = 30 / 2 = 15
Part 1
If you have more than 15 sts in the middle, attach yarn 2 sts beside the marker
(Picture 23a), if you have less, attach yarn 1 st beside the marker (Picture 23b).
Part 2
Picture 23a sk 1 st Picture 23b
For hdc dec, you can choose to go with hdc2tog or sk 1 st. I prefer to choose sk 1
Part 3
*Ch 1, hdc dec, hdc until you have 2 sts left before the second st marker, hdc
dec.*
Part 4
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Yo, insert hook to the 3rd st (Picture 26), yo, you should have 5 loops on your
hook, yo all 5 loops (Picture 27).
Ch 1, cut off yarn.
Construction
Ch 1, yo, insert to the 1st st (Picture 24), yo, you should have 3 loops on your hook
(Picture 25).
Yo, insert hook to the 2nd st (Picture 26), yo, you should have 5 loops on your
hok, yo all 5 loops (Picture 27).
Ch 1, cut off yarn.
Part 1
Your back panel should look something like this now (Picture 28).
Part 2
Picture 28
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
If you have more than 12 sts between the st marker and the raglan increase, OP:
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Row 1 = fsc
attach yarn 2 sts beside the marker, if you have less, attach yarn 1 st beside the
Row 2 = first increase row
marker.
3 - 7 = raglan increase rows
Row 1: Hdc dec, *hdc until you reach the ch 1 space, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] to the ch 1
space*, rep * * until you do 4 [] in total, hdc until you reach the last 2 sts, hdc dec.
Ch 1 & turn.
Construction
Row 2: Hdc dec 2x times, *hdc until you reach the ch 1 space, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] to
the ch 1 space*, rep * * until you do 4 [] in total, hdc until you reach the last 4 sts,
hdc dec 2x times. Ch 1 & turn.
Repeat Row 1 - Row 3 until you reach armpit or around 2 - 3” away from your
Part 1
cleavage (Picture 29), I did 4 rows in total. Fo.
NOTES
Part 2
OP:
= (38 + (2 x 9))/2
= 28
Part 3
Picture 29 Yours:
c=
Now, let’s calculate your the middle of your c sts (or you can count them if you NOTES
hate math):
OP:
c = c sts on Step 4 + (2 x (total rows you’ve made* - 2))
4 sts away from the middle.
2
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Yours:
*total rows should be counted from the fsc row.
Put another st marker 3 - 6 sts away (mine is blue) from the middle st on both
Version
sides (Picture 25). This will determine the size of the front heart cutout. If you’re
uncomfortable with showing too much cleavage, you can just put 3 sts away or
even skip the front heart cutout entirely (though you’re missing the star of the
pattern ><).
Part 1
If you have 3 sts left,
Ch 1, yo, insert to the 1st st, yo, you should have 3 loops on your hook.
Yo, insert hook to the 3rd st, yo, you should have 5 loops on your hok, yo all 5
loops.
Ch 1, cut off yarn.
Part 2
If you have 4 sts left,
Ch 1, hdc dec, hdc dec, ch 1.
Ch 1, hdc dec, fo.
Your front panel should look something like this now (Picture 31). Part 3
Part 4
Picture 31
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Contents
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PAR
Construction
2
Part 1
1
Part 2
In this part, we will continue working on the rest of the body panel, shown in green.
1. Dark green part means that we will work the right side (front and back) separately
from the left side (front and back).
Part 3
2. At one point (Circle 1 and 2), you will stop making raglan increase and just work on
the body panel.
3. At Circle 3, when the front heart cutout has formed, we will join the right side and
the left side.
Part 4
4. The light green part is just working the body panel with decreases for the under-
bust.
Lookbook
Version
Info & Measurement
Construction
Open Heart with Ties at the Back
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Contents
Step 1: Raglan Increase & Both Heart Cutout - Sides
From now on, we will be shaping both the front and back heart cutout simulta-
Version
neously. We might be doing dec for back heart but already inc for front heart all
in one row. What I’m doing to shape the heart might be different with yours, so
this section will be just a guide instead of an actual pattern as you will be free-
handing it. But my golden ratio for the front heart is:
No inc or dec
Construction
Slow inc (hdc inc 1x each row)
Part 1
Open Heart with Ties at the Back
Part 2
2x and 1 row of hdc dec
No inc or dec
Part 3
Ties
Lookbook
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Alternate 2 rows of hdc dec
2x and 1 row of hdc dec
Construction
Ties
Closed Heart
Part 1
Alternate 2 rows of hdc dec
2x and 1 row of hdc dec
Part 2
No inc or dec
For more references on the heart shaping, feel free to check the lookbook and
see the testers' version and their shaping!
Lookbook
Version
1. Make one side all the way until you finish the left side and cut off, then con- I do the 2nd method and do
tinue to work on the right side, then join. If you do this, I recommend to take the Open Heart with Ties at
the Back.
notes on every dec, inc, or normal rows that you make for the back panel
and front panel so that both sides match up.
No matter which way you choose, I’d still recommed to take simple note on the
Construction
shaping (see notes section for example).
You'll be doing the next crochet instruction while measuring M3, M4, and M5 NOTES
occasionally. Stop doing the section and move to the next part if one of these OP:
scenarios happen: M3 = 85.5cm, Picture 29 shows
36cm so (85.5/2)-36 = 6.75cm
- You’re at least 5cm short from your M3/2 measurement if you’re doing the sec-
Part 1
short
ond approach (Picture 32) OR 3cm short from your M3/4 measurement if you’re M4 = 12cm, Pic 30 shows 9cm,
Part 2
Part 3
Stop doing hdc dec 2x and just do dec 1x on the back panel sides if there’s only 5
sts left before the ch 1 space.
Lookbook
Contents
If you start on the back panel, join yarn from where you fo on Step 7 Part 1. SHAPING NOTES
Row 1 = Hdc dec, *hdc until you reach the ch 1 space, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] to the ch 1
OP:
space*, rep * * until you do 2 [] in total, hdc until you reach the last 5 sts before 1. B-1, F-2
Version
the st marker, hdc dec 2x times. Ch 1 & turn. 2. B-2, F-1
3. B-2, F-2
4. B-1, F0
If you start on the front panel, attach yarn on the st beside the st marker (Picture
How to Read?
35).
Construction
Picture 35
attach here
Part 1
Step 2: Detaching Sleeves and Body Panel SHAPING NOTES -c-
OP:
When you’ve reached one of the scenarios, 1. B-1, F-2
hdc (dec accordingly), until you reach the ch 1 space, hdc 1 on the ch 1 space (Pic- 2. B-2, F-1
3. B-2, F-2
Part 2
ture 36), ch around 10 - 25 sts*, hdc 1 on the next ch 1 space (Picture 37), hdc until
4. B-1, F0
you reach the last st on the other side of the panel (shape accordingly). 5. B-1, (19), F0
Picture 36 Picture 37
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Contents
NOTES
Step 3: Body Panel & Bottom Front Heart Cutout
OP:
Now, for each side of the panel (right and left), hdc into every st of the row - sts i’ve dec = 5 sts
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while still shaping the heart cutout accordingly. - sts of the top heart/2 =
10/2 = 5
One thing to notice, if you start to do inc for the Front Heart Cutout, pay attention 5 + 5 = 10 increases on
to: each side
Construction
Picture 38 6. B-1, M0, F+1
Alternate between 1 inc row and 2 inc rows to
7. B-1, M-1, F+2
even out the shaping. 8. B0, M0, F+1
9. B-1, M-1, F+2
If you want a tight fit around the underbust, mark 10. B0, M0, F+1
11. B0, M0, F+1
the middle of the additional sts that you made on 12. B0, M0, F+1
Step 2 (Picture 39), and do dec around there: 13. B+1, M-1, F+1
14. B0, M0, F JOIN,
Part 1
- If the bust and underbust difference is that big,
15. B+1, M-1
dec 1 every row
F+1 means that I increase 1
- If the bust and underbust is not that big, dec 1
st at the front panel.
every 2 rows.
Picture 39
Part 2
Continue the shaping until you reach the last row of front heart inc (Picture 40),
which is when you have reached the number of inc required.
Part 3
Part 4
Picture 40
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Contents
Step 4: Joining Front Hearts
Hdc into every st of the row on one side of the top. When you reach the middle
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(Picture 41), do not cut off yarn and hdc on to the first st of the other front side
(Picture 42).
Construction
Continue hdc until the back panel (remember to still continue the back heart
shaping). When finished, it will look like Picture 43.
Part 1
Part 2
Picture 43
For the next row, when you have reached the middle, hdc to that joined st that
looks like a ch (Picture 44). Your finished row should look like Picture 45.
Part 3
Part 4
Picture 44 Picture 45
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Contents
Step 5a: Bottom Top & Back Heart Shaping - Open Heart SHAPING NOTES -c-
OP:
Now you only need to do the back heart shaping, and most likely you’re already
1. B-1, F-2
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at the inc phase. 2. B-2, F-1
3. B-2, F-2
4. B-1, F0
Row x = hdc inc accordingly, hdc into every st accordingly, hdc inc accordingly. 5. B-1, (19), F0
6. B-1, M0, F+1
7. B-1, M-1, F+2
Construction
18. B+1, M0
19. B+1, M-1
20. B+1, M0
21. B+1, M-1
22. B0, M0
23. B+1, M0
24. B0, M0
Part 1
Picture 46
Step 5b: Bottom Top & Back Heart Shaping - Closed Heart
Part 2
Now you only need to do the back heart shaping, and most likely you’re already
at the inc phase.
Row x = hdc inc accordingly, hdc into every st accordingly, hdc inc accordingly.
Part 3
You would want to pay attention to how many inc you made just like you did on
Part 2 Step 3. Rep Row x until you have reached the number of inc required, join
the heart sides just like you did on Part 2 Step 4.
If you don’t want ribbing, Rep Row x until you reach M7 (unstretched), while doing
Part 4
some dec on the middle accordingly. Do not fo yarn. Continue to Part 3 on Step
2.
If you want to add ribbings, Rep Row x, while doing some dec on the middle ac-
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cordingly, until you are 3-6cm away from M7 (unstretched) (Picture 42). Do not fo
yarn. Continue to Step 1 on Part 3.
Contents
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AR
Construction
Part 1
Part 2
In this part, we will be doing the detailing.
1. The bottom ribbing is continued from the last step of Part 2, then it will still continue to
the outline of the back heart cutout, and all the way to one side of the tie.
Part 3
3. Then, you’ll also need to do the outline of the front heart cutout and also the neckline rib-
bing (optional).
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
Step 1: Bottom Ribbings
USEFUL LINKS
Continuing off from Row x,
- Standing DC tutorial
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Row 1 = Make standing dc on the first st, dc into every st. Turn. - FPDC & BPDC tuto-
Row 2 = Standing dc on first st, *fpdc, bpdc*, rep * * until you have 1 st left. dc rial
on last st. Turn.
Your row 2 should look like Picture 47.
Picture 47
Construction
After turning, if the second st is fpdc,
Row 3 = Rep Row 2
Part 1
Rep Row 3 until you reach M7 (Picture 48). Do not cut off yarn.
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Picture 48
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Version
Now we are going to put sc around the heart.
My guideline for putting sc is:
- For ribbings, put 2 sc on every row
Construction
sc2tog, etc, to make sure that the other side is symmetrical.
Part 1
hdc border looks small compared
to the heart, so we can
make it slightly seem
sc2tog bigger by using hdc
sc borders and dc
Part 2
dc2tog hdc border disproportionate be-
dc border cause it plunges too
deep. we can alleviate
hdc border
it by putting dc instead
of sc
Part 3
sc borders
Part 4
Picture 50
Contents
When you are left with 1 more row (Picture 50, sc2tog; Picture 51) and encoun-
tering the normal sts left from Step 7 Part 1, do a sc2tog between these 2 sts
(Picture 51).
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Sc on the normal sts, then sc2tog between these 2 sts (Picture 52).
sc2tog
Sc (hdc if you want the middle heart bigger) on the other side row of the middle
heart (Picture 53).
Construction
Sc2tog between the final st of the row and the first normal st, sc on the normal
sts, and another sc2tog between the last normal st and the first st of the row.
Sc the other side of the heart.
Part 1
Part 2
Picture 54
If you feel like your heart is neat enough, do not cut off yarn and move to the
next part.
If you want to add thickness to the outline or make it neater, do another row of Part 3
outline but using hdc instead of sc. Do not cut off yarn and move to the next part.
Part 4
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Contents
Step 3: Ties
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Row 1 - 5 = Ch 1, sc on 5 sts. Turn.
Row 6 - 10 = Ch 1, hdc on 5 sts, turn.
Row 11 = Standing dc on the first st, dc on the next 4 sts, turn.
Construction
12345
Part 1
Picture 55
Try on, make sure that you can tie the top without any difficulties (Picture 56).
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Picture 56
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Contents
Step 4: Front Heart Cutout
Version
In my version, I have 2 normal sts on top of the heart on each side.
I attach my yarn to the last normal st before the middle part (Picture 57), so, my
workflow is:
Construction
Sc on the other heart sides until you reach the last st on the side row.
Sc2tog on the last st on the side row and the first normal st, sl st to the first st, fo.
Part 1
start of my front borders
Part 2
Part 3
Picture 57
Part 4
Lookbook
Attach your yarn to any st on the top neckline part. I like to attach it a few sts
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before the join st (Picture 58).
Row 1 = Ch 1, standing dc on the same st. *Dc into every st until you roughly reach
the raglan increase point (Picture 59). Make dc2tog.* Rep ** until you dec the 4th
raglan increase. Dc on all sts until you reach the last st. Sl st to the first st. Turn.
Construction
Row 3 = Standing dc on the first st, *bdpc, fpdc,* rep * * until you reach the last
st. Turn.
Rep Row 3 until your desired length (I usually only do 2-3 rows; Picture 60).
dc2tog
Part 1
Picture 58 Picture 59 Picture 60
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
Version
AR
Construction
Part 1
Part 2
In the last part, we will be doing the sleeves. However, if you’re already satisfied with
the sleeve length from the raglan increase, feel free to skip this part.
Part 3
Contents
Step 1: Main Sleeve
Attach your yarn to the middle of the chs from Part 2 Step 2 (Picture 61).
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Info & Measurement
Picture 61
Row 1 = Ch 1, hdc into the same st. Hdc until you have 1 st left from the ch (Picture
62), hdc3tog between the last ch st, the ch space, and the side hdc. Hdc until you
reach the ch space on the other side of the sleeve (Picture 63), hdc3tog between
Construction
the ch space, the side hdc, and the first ch st (Picture 63), hdc until the last ch st.
Sl st to the first st, turn.
hdc3tog hdc3tog
Part 1
Picture 62 Picture 63
Part 2
Row 2 = Ch 1, hdc until you reach the hdc3tog, skip 1 (the hdc3tog st), hdc until
you reach the hdc3tog on the other side, skip 1, hdc until the last st. Sl st to the
first st, turn.
The part where you skip or dec the hd3tog will be referred to the side armpit Part 3
point. If your sleeve panel feels a bit baggy, especially in the armpit area, you
should do 1 decrease on these points.
Row 3 = Ch 1, hdc until you reach the side armpit point, hdc dec, hdc until you
reach the other side of the side armpit point, hdc dec, hdc until the last st. Sl st to
Part 4
If you don’t want to add ribbings, Rep Row 3 until you reach M6. Fo.
If you want to add ribbings, Rep Row 3 until you reach M6 - 3cm, do not fo, con-
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Contents
Step 2: Sleeve Ribbings
Continuing off from the previous step, we will add ribbings to the sleeves. It is
Version
essentially just like making the neckline ribbings.
Row 1 = Ch 1, standing dc on the same st. *Dc into every st until you roughly
reach the raglan increase point. Make dc2tog.* Rep ** until you dec the 4th rag-
Row 2 = Standing dc, *fpdc, bpdc,* Rep ** until you reach the last st. Turn.
Construction
After turning, if the second st is bpdc,
Row 3 = Standing dc on the first st, *bdpc, fpdc,* rep * * until you reach the last
st. Turn.
Rep Row 3 until your desired ribbing length (I usually only do 3 - 4 rows). Fo.
Part 1
Rep Step 1 (Main Sleeves) and 2 (Sleeves Ribbing) for the other side.
After finishing the top, you might find the heart tips to not stay around, a major
Part 2
tip from me and my testers are blocking your top so that the heart is hearting
perfectly <3
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Construction
You have finished your Heartee! Feel free to post them on
your social media and tag @morningmeadow.s ! I would love
to see your creations and version of Heartee <3 If you also
have any questions about the pattern, do let me know and
I'll be happy to help with the question!
Part 1
Also, if you want to post it on your social media and do a little
photoshoot, I have some poses inspiration for you to try <3
PHOTO INSPIRATION
Part 2
CLICK ME!!
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Lookbook Part 4 Part 3 Part 2 Part 1 Construction Info & Measurement Version Contents
39
2023 Morning Meadows
Lookbook Part 4 Part 3 Part 2 Part 1 Construction Info & Measurement Version Contents
40
Size XS @morningmeadow.s
Contents
MEASUREMENT
A
M1 = 20.5"
A M2 = 14.5"
Version
M3 = 29"
M4 = 6"
M5 = 13"
M6 = 3"
M7 = 14"
YARNS
Cotton Cashmare by
HOOK : 4mm
Construction
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
SS A
M1 = 54cm
M2 = 35cm
Version
M3 = 76cm
M4 = 14cm
M5 = 33cm
M6 = 17cm
M7 = 27cm
YARNS
Mega 2000 by Meroglio
(Worsted Weight)
Complementary Color:
120g / 250m
Construction
HOOK : 4mm
SHAPING NOTES
1. B-1, F-1
2. B-1, F-1
Part 1
3. B0, F0
4. B+1, F+1
5. B+2, M-1, F+2
6. B+1, M-1, F+1
7. B0, M-1, F0
8. B+1, M-1, F+1
9. B+2, M-1, F+2
Part 2
10. B0, M-1, F0
11. B+1, M-1, F+1
12. B+1, M-1, F+1
13. B+2, M-1, F+2
14. B0, M-1, F0
15. B+1, M-1, F+1
16. B+2, F+2 Part 3
17. B0, F0
18. B+1, F+1
19-30 B0, F0
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
S IS
M1 = 22"
M2 = 20"
Version
M3 = 20"
M4 = 4"
M5 = 16"
M6 = 6"
M7 = 7"
YARNS
Stylecraft Special Double
Construction
HOOK : 3.5mm
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 22"
K
M2 = 18"
Version
M3 = 32"
M4 = 6"
M5 = 18"
M6 = 6"
M7 = 15"
YARNS
Cahlista by Scheepjes (DK
Weight)
450yds
Construction
HOOK : 4mm
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 55cm
A R
M2 = 45cm
Version
M3 = 86cm
M4 = 15cm
M5 = 39cm
(DK Weight)
HOOK : 3.5mm
Construction
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 60cm
N ET H
M2 = 41cm
K N
Version
M3 = 26cm
M4 = 15cm
M5 = 38cm
M6 = -
M7 = 33cm
YARNS
Sierra by Patons (Worsted
Weight)
HOOK : 3.5mm
Construction
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
Z
M1 = 50cm
O E
M2 = 43cm
Version
M3 = 90cm
M4 = 15cm
M5 = 58cm
M6 = 22cm
M7 = 33cm
YARNS
Sweet Delight by Baby Bee
607yds
Construction
HOOK : 3.5mm
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M
M1 = 58cm
Y A M2 = 40cm
Version
M3 = 93cm
M4 = 18cm
M5 = 44cm
M6 = 12cm
M7 = 33cm
YARNS
Super Saver by Lion Heart
(Worsted Weight)
533yds
Construction
HOOK : 5mm
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 55cm
EL A M2 = 39cm
Version
M3 = 83cm
M4 = 13cm
M5 = 39cm
(Worsted Weight)
Pink: 150gr
Construction
HOOK : 4mm
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
L EY
M1 = 53.5cm, 21"
M2 = 47cm, 18.5"
Version
M3 = 82cm, 32"
M4 = 21cm, 8"
M5 = 37cm, 14.5"
M6 = 17cm, 6.6"
M7 = 36cm, 14"
YARNS
Ultra Pima by Cascade
in Delphinium
Complementary Color:
Construction
50g / 55m in Cobalt
HOOK : 3mm
SHAPING NOTES
1. B-1, F-2
2. B-2, F-2
Part 1
3. B-1, (23), F0
4. B0, F+1
5. B+1, F0
6. B+1, F+1
7. B0, F0
8. B+1, F+1
9. B+1, F0
Part 2
10. B+1, F+1
11. B+1, M-1, F+1
12. B0, M0, F+1
13. B+1, M-1, F+1
14. B0, M0, F+1
15. B+1, M-1, F+1
16. B0, M0, F+1 Part 3
17. B+1, M-1, F+1
18. B0, M-1, Join
19. B+1, M0
20. B0, M-1
21. B+1, M0
22. B0, M-1
23. B0, M0
Part 4
Contents
MEASUREMENT
S EA
M1 = 60cm
HE
M2 = 40cm
Version
M3 = 92cm
M4 = 19cm
M5 = 40cm
M6 = 16cm
M7 = 35cm
YARNS
Cotton Yarn (Size 2)
HOOK : 3.5mm
Construction
SHAPING NOTES
1. B-1, F-2
2. B-2, F-1
3. B-2, F-2
4. B-1, F-1
5. B-1, (18), F0
6. B-1, F0
Part 1
7. B-1, F0
8. B0, F0
9. B0, F+1
10. B0, F+1
11. B0, F+1
12. B0, F+1
13. B+1, F+2
Part 2
14. B0, F+1
15. B+1, F+2
16. B0, F+1
17. B+1, F+2
18. B0, F0
19. B+1, F+2
20. B0 Part 3
21. B+1
22. B0
23. B+1
24. B0
25. B+1
26. B0, M-1
27. B+1, M-1
Part 4
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 22"
RST N
M2 = 18"
Version
M3 = 40"
M4 = 6.5"
M5 = 16"
M6 = -
M7 = 16"
YARNS
Cotton Yarn by KulaYarn
(DK Weight)
HOOK : 3.5mm
Construction
SHAPING NOTES
1. B-1, F-2
2. B-2, F-1
3. B-2, F-2
4. B-2, F0
Part 1
5. B-2, (30), F0
6. B0, F+1
7. B-1, M-1, F+2
8. B0, M0, F+1
9. B0, M-1, F+2
10. B-1, M0, F+1
11. B0, M-1, F+1
12. B0, M0, F+1
Part 2
13. B+1, M-1, F+1
14. B+1, M0, Join
15. B0, M0
16. B+1, M0
17. B+1, M0
18. B0, M0
19. B+1, M0
Part 3
20. B+1, M-1
21. B0, M0
22. B+1, M0
23. B+1, M0
24. B0, M0
25. B+1, M0
26. B+1, M0
Part 4
27. B0, M0
28. B+1, M0
29. B+1, M0
30. B0, M0
31. B+1, M0
32. B+1, M0
Lookbook
33. B0, M0
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 22.5"
S IE
M2 = 14"
Version
M3 = 37"
M4 = 7"
M5 = 21"
M6 = 6"
M7 = 17"
YARNS
Facets by Loops and
Threads (Weight 4)
berry
Construction
Ribbing Color: 60gr /
83yds in Burgundy
HOOK : 5mm
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 23.5"
ST I NE
M2 = 16"
Version
M3 = 38"
M4 = 8"
M5 = 19"
M6 = 6.5"
M7 = 18.5"
YARNS
Cotton Yarn by Ashley's
Crochet (Weight 2)
Construction
HOOK : 4mm
SHAPING NOTES
1. B-1, F-2
2. B-1, F-1
3. B-1, F-2
4. B-1, F-1
Part 1
5. B-1, F-2
6. B-1, F-1
7. B-1, F0
8. B-1, F0
9. B-1, F+2
10. B-1, F+1
11. B-1, F+2
12. B-1, F+1
Part 2
13. B-1, F+2
14. B-1, F+1
15. B-1, F+2
16. B-1, F+1
17. B0, F+2
18. B0, F+1
19. B0, F+2
Part 3
20. B0, F+1
21. B+2, Join
22. B+1
23. B+2
24. B+1
25. B+2
26. B+1
Part 4
27. B+2
28. B+1
29. B+2
30. B+1
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
SAM
M1 = 55cm
M2 = 35cm
Version
M3 = 110cm
M4 = 18cm
M5 = 50cm
M6 = 29cm
M7 = 40cm
YARNS
Black (214g / 493m):
Bravo by Schachenmayr
Construction
(Light Fingering)
(DK Weight)
HOOK : 3.5mm
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 57.15cm
AT
M2 = 49cm
Version
M3 = 106cm
M4 = 13cm
M5 = 30cm
M6 = 14cm
M7 = 37.5cm
YARNS
Used 4 different yarns,
HOOK : 4.5mm
Construction
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 25.5"
M I
M2 = 45"
Version
M3 = 52"
M4 = 8"
M5 = 20"
M6 = 8"
M7 = 7"
YARNS
Green Apple Ombre by
(Weight 4)
Grams : 472g
Yardage : 964yds
Construction
HOOK : 4.5mm
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Lookbook
Contents
MEASUREMENT
M1 = 24"
E
M2 = 16"
I N
Version
M3 = 44"
M4 = 7"
M5 = 18"
M6 = 5"
M7 = 15"
YARNS
Impeccable by Loops and
in Barley
Construction
425yds in Laurel
HOOK: 5mm
SHAPING NOTES
Part 1
1. B-1, F-2
2. B-1, F-2
3. B-1, F-1
4. B-1, F0
5. B-1, (15), F0
6. B0, F0
7. B0, M-1, F+1
8. B0, M0, F+1
Part 2
9. B0, M-1, F+1
10. B0, M0, F+1
11. B0, M-1, F+2
12. B+1, M0, F+1
13. B+1, M-1, F+2
14. B+1, M0, F+1
15. B+1, M-1, F+2
Part 3
16. B+1, M0, F+1
17. B+1, M-1, F+2 (Join)
18. B+1, M0
19. B+1, M-1
20-30: Rep Row 18-19
Part 4
Lookbook
59