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CLOTHING CARE Venkat

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
207 views77 pages

CLOTHING CARE Venkat

Uploaded by

Venkat prasath
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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CLOTHING CARE

Prepared by,
M.Venkat prasath, M.Sc.,
Assistant Professor
Department Of TFD & CDF
Excel College For Commerce And Science.

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CLOTHING CARE
CLOTHING CARE
UNIT-I
Water- hard and soft water, Determination of water hardness methods of softening water.
Zeolite or Base exchange method. Laundry soaps – Manufacture of soap and methods, composition
of soap, types of soap, soap less detergents, chemical action, detergent manufacture, advantages of
detergents. Difference between soap and detergents.
UNIT-II
Laundry equipment and reagents: Study of laundry equipment and laundry reagents -
soaps - detergents - cleaning action of soaps, indigenous cleaning agents - rita nut - shikakai - green
gram - bran solution – study of modern and industrial cleaning agents
UNIT III
Stiffening Agents: Study of stiffening agents –purpose of stiffening-classification of
stiffening Agents preparation and uses of stiffeners- natural and commercial starches - preparation
of starch for use - bleaching agents - blueing and tinting agents and their application – optical
whiteners .
UNIT-IV
Washing Machine And Care Labels: Study of different types of house hold/industrial
washing machine- rotary - swirling - pressure - tumble wash etc; the various systems of care
labeling-washing instruction. bleaching instruction-drying instruction-ironing instruction-dry
cleaning instruction. placement of labels on garments.
UNIT -V
Stain Removal: Principles of laundering - stain removal - various solvents for stain
removing blood, tea, rust; oil/grease etc. – different methods of washing - application of friction by
hand rubbing - scribing -tumble wash. General rules and ways of stain removal.

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UNIT-1

WATER
 Chemical formula: H2O
 It is a transparent fluid which forms the world's streams, lakes, oceans and rain, and is the
major constituent of the fluids of organisms.
 Water is a liquid at standard ambient temperature and pressure, solid state, ice; and
gaseous state, steam (water vapor).
 It also exists as snow, fog, dew and cloud.

HARD WATER
 Hard water is water that has high mineral content (in contrast with "soft water").
 Hard water is formed when water percolates through deposits of limestone and chalk
which are largely made up of calcium and magnesium carbonates.

SOFT WATER
 Soft water is surface water that contains low concentrations of ions and in particular is
low in ions of calcium and magnesium.
 Soft water naturally occurs where rainfall and the drainage basin of rivers are formed of
hard, impervious and calcium poor rocks

METHODS OF SOFTENING WATER

Temporary hardness

1. By boiling the water:

On boiling, the soluble bicarbonate is decomposed into insoluble carbonate.

2. Chemical methods:

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By adding slaked lime [Ca (OH) 2] to hard water, insoluble carbonates are formed.

The insoluble calcium carbonate is the ‘fur’ (or scale) formed in kettles, boilers, pipes,
etc.

Permanent hardness

The most common means for removing water hardness rely on ion-exchange polymers or
reverse osmosis. Other approaches include precipitation methods and sequestration by the
addition of chelating agents.

1. Ion-exchange resin devices

Conventional water-softening appliances intended for household use depend on an ion-


exchange resin in which "hardness ions" - mainly Ca2+ and Mg2+ - are exchanged for sodium
ions. As described by NSF/ANSI Standard 44, ion exchange devices reduce the hardness by
replacing magnesium and calcium (Mg2+ and Ca2+) with sodium or potassium ions (Na+ and
K+)."

2. Lime softening

Lime softening is the process in which lime is added to hard water to make it softer.

3. Chelating agents

Chelators are used in chemical analysis, as water softeners, and are ingredients in many
commercial products such as shampoos and food preservatives. Citric acid is used to soften
water in soaps and laundry detergents. A commonly used synthetic chelator is
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).

4. Distillation and rain water

Since Ca2+ and Mg2+ exist as nonvolatile salts, they can be removed by distilling the

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water. Distillation is too expensive in most cases. Rainwater is soft because it is naturally
distilled during the water cycle of evaporation, condensation and precipitation.

5. Reverse osmosis

Reverse osmosis (RO) takes advantage of hydrostatic pressure gradients across a special
membrane. The membrane has pores large enough to admit water molecules for passage;
hardness ions such as Ca2+ and Mg2+ remain behind and are flushed away by excess water into a
drain. The resulting soft water supply is free of hardness ions without any other ions being
added. Membranes have a limited capacity, requiring regular replacement.

LAUNDRY SOAP
Laundry soap is one of the most essential house-hold items that humans use daily. It
commands regular or constant demand in the market place.
These soaps are generally thought of as mild soaps used for lifting soil, grease and
organic compounds from an assortment of fabrics. Laundry detergents are formulated to work
under varying conditions. Laundry detergents come in powders, liquids and gels and can work
in all water temperatures. Laundry detergents are most effective when used in warm or hot water
especially when removing grease or heavy soil.
Traditional soaps are made from fats and oils or their fatty acids which are reacted with
inorganic water-soluble bases. The main sources of fats are beef and mutton tallow, while palm,
coconut and palm kernel oils are the principal oils used in soap making. The raw materials may
be pretreated to remove impurities and to achieve the color, odor and performance features
desired in the finished bar. The chemical processes for making soap, i.e., saponification of fats
and oils and neutralization of fatty acids, are described in the Chemistry section.
TYPES OF SOAP
Soap
Soap is a cleaning product made from natural ingredients. It is a substance used with
water for washing and cleaning, made of a compound of natural oils or fats with sodium

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hydroxide or another strong alkali, and typically having perfume and colouring added
Kitchen soaps
They are further categorized into two: cleansers and detergents.

Cleansers

Cleansers are often made with mild abrasives and they are formulated to eliminate heavy
oil or solid particles and hard-to-remove stains. The cleansers come in many different
types depending on the type of abrasives they contain.

Detergents

Dish detergents are made to remove tough grease and release the solid dirt particles in
the foam that is produced by the detergent. There are two types of dish detergents:
machine dishwasher detergents and hand dishwashing detergents.

Laundry soaps

Laundry soaps are formulated to eliminate grease, solid particles and organic compounds
from clothes. They can be found in liquid, powder and gel forms.

Cleaning soaps

Cleaning soaps have different formulations to clean grease and soil. The difference
between cleansers and cleaning soaps is that cleaning soaps don't contain harsh abrasives.

Personal soaps

This kind of soap is made in many forms and special formulations for specific personal
hygiene needs. One type of the personal soap isthe antibacterial soap that is made to prevent
bacteria and viruses from spreading. There are also body and hair soaps that have a mix of
ingredients that cleans both the skin and hair.

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Novelty soaps

Novelty soaps are especially manufactured for the kids and include the soaps in the
shapes of various items, such as a rubber ducky or the soap-on-the-rope. There are made not
only to clean dirt and grime, but for amusement and enjoyment as well.

Perfumed soaps

Perfumed soaps are produced by adding a few additional ingredients and perfume.

Guest soaps

Guest soaps are miniature soaps that are made and shaped into attractive shapes and
they are basically designed for the use by guests either in the main bathroom or separate guest
bathroom. Popular and commonly used shapes are flowers, sea shells and rounds

Beauty soaps

Beauty soaps are produced to feature attractive fragrances, and ingredients for a variety
of skin types. They can feature glycerin, or special oil blends.

Medicated soaps

Medicated soaps and original soap are very similar. Unlike original soap, medicated soap
has the addition of antiseptics and disinfectants.

Glycerin soaps

Glycerin is a normally produced during the process of soap production. Soaps which
include glycerin in them tend to make your skin feel moister.

Transparent soap

Transparent soap uses slightly different ingredients and usually some form of alcohol to

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alter the process which is also conducted at higher temperatures. Not all transparent soaps are
glycerin soaps.

Liquid soaps

Liquid soaps are actually very difficult to produce and many of the commercial liquid
soaps are just in fact detergents.

Industrial soaps
Industrial soaps are formulated for specific tasks. They are commonly used for car
washes, auto centers, and production line cleanup. These soaps usually come in 55 gal drums or
large containers and are connected to pressure cleaning systems.

MANUFACTURE OF SOAP

Traditional bar soaps are made from fats and oils or their fatty acids which are reacted
with inorganic water-soluble bases. The main sources of fats are beef and mutton tallow, while
palm, coconut and palm kernel oils are the principal oils used in soap making. The raw materials
may be pretreated to remove impurities and to achieve the color, odor and performance features
desired in the finished bar. The chemical processes for making soap, i.e., saponification of fats
and oils and neutralization of fatty acids, are described in the Chemistry section.

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Soap was made by the batch kettle boiling method until shortly after World War II, when
continuous processes were developed. Continuous processes are preferred today because of their
flexibility, speed and economics.

Both continuous and batch processes produce soap in liquid form, called neat soap, and a
valuable by-product, glycerine (1). The glycerine is recovered by chemical treatment, followed
by evaporation and refining. Refined glycerine is an important industrial material used in foods,
cosmetics, drugs and many other products.

The next processing step after saponification or neutralization is drying. Vacuum spray
drying is used to convert the neat soap into dry soap pellets (2). The moisture content of the
pellets will vary depending on the desired properties of the soap bar.

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In the final processing step, the dry soap pellets pass through a bar soap finishing line.
The first unit in the line is a mixer, called an amalgamator, in which the soap pellets are blended
together with fragrance, colorants and all other ingredients (3). The mixture is then homogenized
and refined through rolling mills and refining plodders to achieve thorough blending and a
uniform texture (4). Finally, the mixture is continuously extruded from the plodder, cut into bar-
size units and stamped into its final shape in a soap press (5).

Some of today's bar soaps are called "combo bars," because they get their cleansing
action from a combination of soap and synthetic surfactants. Others, called "syndet bars," feature
surfactants as the main cleansing ingredients. The processing methods for manufacturing the
synthetic base materials for these bars are very different from those used in traditional
soapmaking. However, with some minor modifications, the finishing line equipment is the same.

COMPOSITION OF SOAP
Fats and Oils
The fats and oils used in soapmaking come from animal or plant sources. Each fat or oil
is made up of a distinctive mixture of several different triglycerides.

In a triglyceride molecule, three fatty acid molecules are attached to one molecule of
glycerine. There are many types of triglycerides; each type consists of its own particular
combination of fatty acids.

Fatty acids are the components of fats and oils that are used in making soap. They are
weak acids composed of two parts:

A carboxylic acid group consisting of one hydrogen (H) atom, two oxygen (O) atoms,
and one carbon (C) atom, plus a hydrocarbon chain attached to the carboxylic acid group.
Generally, it is made up of a long straight chain of carbon (C) atoms each carrying two hydrogen
(H) atoms.

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Alkali
An alkali is a soluble salt of an alkali metal like sodium or potassium. Originally, the
alkalis used in soapmaking were obtained from the ashes of plants, but they are now made
commercially. Today, the term alkali describes a substance that chemically is a base (the
opposite of an acid) and that reacts with and neutralizes an acid.

The common alkalis used in soapmaking are sodium hydroxide (NaOH), also called
caustic soda; and potassium hydroxide (KOH), also called caustic potash.

PROPERTIES OF SOAP

1. Viscosity

When an oil blend is saponified with caustic soda, the resultant soap has a viscosity
which is much more than that of either the oil or the caustic soda solution. Depends
on the temperature the viscosity of the soap varies in the range of 10-20.

2. Specific heat

The specific heat of soaps at 0.56 cal/g is satisfactory for calculation of heat transfer
rates.

3. Latent heat

The latent heat of fusion of soap is approximately 38 cal/g.

4. Density

The density of pure soap is in the range of 0.96-0.97 g/c.c. at 300C.

5. The 66% rule

A soap curd consist of soap hydrate containing 66% fatty acid and lye, ldentical in
composition to that from which it has separated.
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6. Salt distribution between soap curd and lye

Applying the 66% rule, the free solution in curd contains the same percentage of salt
as the spent lye from which the curd has separated.

7. Glycerol distribution between soap curd and lye

The glycerol distribution in curd and lye is related to the water content of the two
layers.

8. Rate of drying of soap

When soap is allowed to dry by exposure to ambient air, moisture is lost depending
on the initial moisture content, physical structure, duration of exposure, the
atmospheric temperature and humidity.

SOAPLESS DETERGENT

The first soapless detergent was made in 1831. But soapless detergents did not become
popular until 1950, when it was discovered that petroleum (oil) contained a group of compounds
that could be converted to soapless detergents.

Soapless detergent is a synthetic cleaning agent distilled from petroleum-based


(petrochemical) and/or oil and fat-based (oleochemical) substances. Unlike soap-based cleansers,
the chemical composition of soapless detergent prevents the formation of soap scum when
combined with hard water. Soapless detergents may be found in industrial cleansers, household
cleansers and even personal care products.

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Many washing powders and household cleaning fluids are soapless detergents. It is made
from petroleum oil. They are the sodium salts of sulphonic acids. Like soap they are emulsifying
agents.

Soapless detergents are very good at removing oil and grease. They are too powerful for
use on the skin and the gentler action of a soap is better.

DETERGENT

A detergent is a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants with cleaning properties in dilute


solutions.[ These substances are usually alkylbenzenesulfonates, a family of compounds that are
similar to soap but are more soluble in hard water, because the polar sulfonate (of detergents) is
less likely than the polar carboxyl (of soap) to bind to calcium and other ions found in hard
water. In most household contexts, the term detergent by itself refers specifically to laundry
detergent or dish detergent, as opposed to hand soap or other types of cleaning agents.
Detergents are commonly available as powders or concentrated solutions.

Chemical classification of detergents

Detergents are classified into three broad groupings, depending on the electrical charge of
the surfactants.

Anionic detergents

Typical anionic detergents are alkylbenzenesulfonates. The alkylbenzene portion of these


anions is lipophilic and the sulfonate is hydrophilic. Two different varieties have been
popularized, those with branched alkyl groups and those with linear alkyl groups. The former
were largely phased out in economically advanced societies because they are poorly
biodegradable.

Bile acids, such as deoxycholic acid (DOC), are anionic detergents produced by the liver
to aid in digestion and absorption of fats and oils.

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Cationic detergents

Cationic detergents are similar to the anionic ones, with a hydrophobic component, but,
instead of the anionic sulfonate group, the cationic surfactants have quaternary ammonium as the
polar end. The ammonium center is positively charged.

Non-ionic and zwitterionic detergents

Non-ionic detergents are characterized by their uncharged, hydrophilic headgroups.


Typical non-ionic detergents are based on polyoxyethylene or a glycoside. These materials are
also known as ethoxylates or PEGlyates and their metabolites, nonylphenol. Glycosides have a
sugar as their uncharged hydrophilic headgroup.

DETERGENT MANUFACTURE
SOLID DETERGENT MANUFACTURE

Step 1 - Slurry making


The solid and liquid raw ingredients (Table 2) are dropped into a large tank known as a
slurry mixer. As the ingredients are added the mixture heats up as a result of two exothermic
reactions: the hydration of sodium tripolyphosphate and the reaction between caustic soda and
linear alkylbenzenesulphonic acid. The mixture is then further heated to 85 0 C and stirred until it
forms a homogeneous slurry.
Step 2 - Spray drying
The slurry is deaerated in a vacuum chamber and then separated by an atomiser into
finely divided droplets. These are sprayed into a column of air at 425 0 C, where they dry
instantaneously. The resultant powder is known as 'base powder', and its exact treatment from
this point on depends on the product being made.
Step 3 - Post dosing
Other ingredients are now added, and the air blown through the mixture in a fluidiser to
mix them into a homogeneous powder. Typical ingredients are listed in Table 3.

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Table 2 - The ingredients of detergent base powder

Solids

Ingredient Function
Sodium tripolyphsophate (STP) Water softener, pH buffer (to reduce
alkalinity).

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Sodium sulphate Bulking and free-flowing agent.
Soap noodles Causes rapid foam collapse during rinsing.
Zeolite Water softener (absorbs Ca2+
and Mg2+) in contries where STP is not used;
granulating agent for concentrated detergents.

Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose Increases the negative charge on cellulosic


fibres such as cotton and rayon, causing them
to repel dirt particles (which are positively
charged).

Liquids

Ingredient Function
Linear alkylbenzene sulphonic acid Surfactant - the main active ingredient
(LAS)
Caustic soda solution Neutralises the LAS.
Coconut diethanolamide or a fatty alcohol ethoxylate
Fluorescer Absorbs UV light and emits blue light, causing
ageing cotton to appear white rather than
yellow
Water Dissolves the various ingredients, causing
them to mix better.

LIQUID DETERGENT MANUFACTURE


Step 1 - Soap premix manufacture
Liquid detergent contains soap as well as synthetic surfactants. This is usually made first
as a premix, then other ingredients are blended into it. This step simply consists of neutralising

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fatty acids (rather than fats themselves) with either caustic soda (NaOH) or potassium
hydroxide.
Step 2 - Ingredient mixing
All ingredients except enzymes are added and mixed at high emperature. The ingredients
used in liquid detergent manufacture are typically sodium tripolyphosphate, caustic soda,
sulphonic acid, perfume and water. The functions of these ingredients has been covered above.
Step 3 - Enzyme addition
The mixture is cooled and milled, and the enzymes added in powder form.

Table 3 - Typical post dosing ingredients

Ingredient Function
Soda ash (anhydrous Na2 CO3) Keeps the pH at 9.0-9.5. This ensures optimum
detergent
function. Also forms insoluble carbonates with
Ca and
Mg, so acts as a water softener.
Bleach Bleaches stains without damaging colour-fast
(usually sodium perborate -NaBO3) dyes.

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Sodium perborate breaks down at high
temperatures to release H2O2, which functions
this way.
Bleach activator Catalyses sodium perborate breakdown at low
(e.g. tetraacetylethylenediamine) temperatures.
Enzymes (e.g. alkaline protease) Alkaline protease breaks down proteins in the
alkaline
conditions created by soda ash, helping to
remove stains.
Colour and perfume Create a more asthetically pleasing product.

MERITS OF DETERGENTS

1. Lathers easily in hard water


2. Does not form scum
3. No waste age of soap
4. Have stronger cleansing action than soaps.
5. Synthetic detergents are more soluble in water than soaps.
6. They do not decompose in acidic medium

DEMERITS OF DETERGENTS

1. No biodegradable
2. Causes environmental pollution
3. Expensive
4. It inhibit oxidation of organic substances
5. Due to the effect of surfactants they produce stable foams in rivers
6. The stable foams are danger to aquatic life.

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UNIT –II

LAUNDRY EQUIPMENT–FOR STORAGE, STEEPING AND WASHING.

Laundry - definition
Laundry can be defined as a place where the washing and finishing of clothes and other
wastable articles are carried out.
Laundry Types
1. Commercial Laundry :
These cater to hotel on a contract basis . The contract specifies the rate for
laundry different articles of linen and so on.
2. In house laundry :
An on premises laundry (opl) in the hotel own laundry situated on its premies.
Many hotels make this heavy investment to provide quality.
LAUNDRY EQUIPMENTS FOR STORAGE
Storage is provided for dirty laundry but between uses, textile products need to be stored.
Clean laundry may be stored in chests of drawers, wardrobes and suitcases. Items may be stored
for short or long periods. Proper storage will prolong the life of garments.
Laundry hampers
A hamper refers to a set of related basket-like items. In primarily British usage, it refers
to a wicker basket, usually large, that is used for the transport of items, often food. In North
America, the term generally refers to a household receptacle, often a basket, for clean or dirty
clothing, regardless of its composition, i.e. "a laundry hamper". Typically a laundry hamper is
used for storage and will be sturdier, taller and have a lid while a laundry basket is open and used
mainly for transport.

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Laundry Baskets
A basket is a container which is traditionally constructed from stiff fibers, which can be
made from a range of materials, including wood splints, runners, and cane. While most baskets
are made from plant materials, other materials such as horsehair, baleen, or metal wire can be
used. Baskets are generally woven by hand. Some baskets are fitted with a lid, others are left
open. Baskets are typically used for storage and transport, specialized baskets are for cooking,
laundry and other uses.

Laundry trolleys
Laundry trolleys are used for storage capacity and elegance. It has plastic drawers for
hygienic completely rust-free and recyclable, easy to clean. Add more hooks and handle-holders
on side baskets or directly onto the edge of the trolley. The plastic doors are equipped with
ergonomic hand grip.

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Cloth hangers

A clothes hanger, coat hanger, or coathanger, is a device in the shape of:

 Human shoulders designed to facilitate the hanging of a coat, jacket, sweater, shirt,
blouse or dress in a manner that prevents wrinkles, with a lower bar for the hanging of
trousers or skirts.
 Clamp for the hanging of trousers, skirts, or kilts. Both types can be combined in a single
hanger.

There are three basic types of clothes hangers.

Wire hanger- a simple loop of wire, most often steel in a flattened triangle shape that continues
into a hook at the top.

Wooden hanger- consists of a flat piece of wood cut into a boomerang-like shape. Some wooden
hangers have a rounded bar and a flattened triangle.

Plastic coat hangers - mostly the shape of either a wire or wooden hanger. Plastic coat hangers
are also produced in smaller sizes to accommodate the shapes of children's clothes.

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Laundry sorter

It is used the cloths by:

 Color
 Type of fabric, and
 Dirtiness of the laundry

LAUNDRY EQUIPMENTS STEEPING AND WASHING


Laundry tubs/basins

Tub is a large, shallow, round plastic or paper container with or without a lid.

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Buckets
A bucket or pail is typically a watertight, vertical cylinder or truncated cone, with an
open top and a flat bottom, attached to a semicircular carrying handle called the bail. A common
volume is 10 liters. Made up of plastic, wood, leather and other metals

Laundry boards
A washboard is a tool designed for hand washing clothing. The traditional washboard is
usually constructed with a rectangular wooden frame in which are mounted a series of ridges or
corrugations for the clothing to be rubbed upon.

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Laundry brushes
A brush is a tool with bristles, wire or other filaments, used for cleaning. It is one of the
most basic and versatile tools known to mankind and the average household may contain several
dozen varieties. It generally consists of a handle or block to which filaments are affixed either
parallel- or perpendicular-wise, depending on the use. Clothes brush are used for removing
detritritus from clothing

Laundry sinks
Laundry sinks are used for soaking or rinsing cloths. It is made up of ceramics, cements
etc. in olden days sinks are made up of wood and stone. Modern sinks are specialized with
cupboards.

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TYPES OF EQUIPMENTS–WASH BOARD,
suction washer, wash boiler, washing machine.

Washboard
A washboard is a tool designed for hand washing clothing. The traditional washboard is
usually constructed with a rectangular wooden frame in which are mounted a series of ridges or
corrugations for the clothing to be rubbed upon. For 19th-century washboards, the ridges were
often of wood; by the 20th century, ridges of metal were more common. Many parts of the world
still use washboards for washing clothes.
Clothes are soaked in hot soapy water in a washtub or sink, then squeezed and rubbed
against the ridged surface of the washboard to force the cleansing fluid through the cloth to carry
away dirt. Washboards may also be used for washing in a river, with or without soap. Then the
clothes are rinsed. The rubbing has a similar effect to beating the clothes and household linen on
rocks, an ancient method, but is less abrasive. Military personnel often use washboards to do
their laundry when no local laundry facilities exist.

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Zinc and other innovations

Metal washboards were surely a "great American invention".

In 1833 Wash Board is fluted with tin, sheet iron, copper or zinc".

In 1842 a wooden washboard coated in rubber

In 1877 glass or porcelain or terracotta board are invented.

Suction washer
The suction washer consist of a hallow cup of non-rusting materials such as copper or
chromium with a wooden handle.
It usually comes in two sizes:
small - for fine articles and a
larger - for general household articles.

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Wash boiler
For articles that must be washed in boiling water, such as bed sheets, a wash boiler is a
useful piece of equipment. Wash boilers used to be made of zinc or galvanized iron and contain
electric heating elements, which are covered so they do not contact the clothes. Some models are
fitted with agitators to move the clothes around. Typical sizes are 5-10 gallons, with an electric
consumption of 2-4 kw. Clothes must be pre-washed before boiling. A smooth, rounded boiler
stick to agitate the clothes and a pair of wooden tongs to lift clothes out are useful accessories.
Electric wash boilers should not be confused with washing machines, which run through a series
of wash cycles.

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Cloth wringer
Cloth wringers comes in many designs. Some are hand operated, while others may be
electrically driven. They can be placed to swing into position over a sink or even attached to the
tub of a washing machine. Wringers are useful during the monsoons and in locations with
adequate sunshine.

The wringer consists of a number of rubber rollers between which wet garments are
forced to squeeze out the water. The spaces and tension between the rollers can be adjusted by a
hand screw and there is a safety release. Some models have a top roller of soft rubber so
buttoned garments can be wrung without damage. Wringers can be used for all woolen garments,
heavy blankets, most synthetic fabrics, all types of rayon, fine silks and dacca saris. However,
thick garments should not be forced through the tension between rollers should be adjusted first.
In maintaining a wringer, the rubber rollers can be washed with warm, soapy water and dried
well, as wet rubber deteriorates. Soiled rollers can also be cleaned with a little paraffin or
turpentine, but they should then be washed immediately, as both liduids are rubber solvents.
WASHING MACHINE
A washing machine (laundry machine, clothes washer, or washer) is a machine used to
wash laundry, such as clothing and sheets. The term is mostly applied to machines that use water
as opposed to dry cleaning or ultrasonic cleaners.
Now a days more people use washing machine for house hold laundering.

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1. Fully automatic:
With one setting of control it fills water, set temperature, washes, rinses, extract water
and stop without further operation of operator.
2. Semi automatic:
The operator has to operate the machine number of times for each operation start to
end.
3. Manually operated:
50% of work is manual.
Types as per loading:
a) Top loading
b) Front loading
c) Top loading washing machine:
In this washing machine the clothes are loaded from the top of the washing
machine. There is a cover at the top that helps loading and unloading of clothes in the
round vessel that perform the function of the washer as well as the rinser and drier in
the fully automatic washing machine. The top loading washing machine is preferred
by the people who don’t want to bend the body while loading the clothes in the
machine. This washing machine is more widely used than the front loading washing
machine in many parts of the world.
d) Front loading washing machine:
In this machine the clothes are loaded from the front side. The studies have
shown that the front loading washing machines consume less electric energy, water
and detergent and also give better washing results compared to the top loading
washing machine.

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Automatic washer:
All washing machines perform the following operations.
1. Filling up of water:
There are two ways to fill up water.
a) Metered fill
 Has uniform regulation of water
 Amount of water is as in initial fill and rinse
 Water pressure doesn’t matter the water fills until the required amount to be
filled.
b) Time fill:
 Wash tub fill according to the time
 Time is set in the washer and the wash tub fills to the required time
 Disadvantage is if the pressure of water is high or low the amount of water
enter in the wash tub varies
 Only normal pressure of water gives normal or correct fill.

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The time fill method has a disadvantage and so mostly metered fill washer is better.
2. Regulation of temperature:

All automatic washers have a dial or a button to select temperature.


There are various choices like:
a) A hot wash followed by a warm rinse
b) A warm wash followed by a warm rinse
c) A hot wash followed by a cold rinse
d) A warm wash followed by a cold rinse
e) A cold wash followed by a warm rinse
f) A cold wash followed by a cold rinse

There are three system for controlling temperature.


a) Thermostatic – A thermostat control mixing value regulates the temperature of
incoming water.
b) Mechanical mixing – The mixing valve in this system works on mechanical
principal.
c) Combination control – In some washers there is a combination of thermostatic
control and mechanical mixing.
3. Water level control
a) Automatic control
 Some machines has an additional features water level control.
 The user pre-select the amount of water entering the washer.
 Thus water can be adjusted to the size of the load to be washed.
 Control may be automatic or manual.
 Some washers indicates low, medium, or normal.
b) Manual control
 The user must be near to the machine during fill period.
 A button or switch is pressed to stop water flow when it reaches the required
level.
 Same is repeated while rinsing.
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4. The Washing
The principle of washing is based on the flexing of fabric in washing solution and
the dirt is carry away from the fabric.
The washing machine uses three major methods to bring about washing
a) Agitation:
 This type of washing takes place in top-loading machine.
 Agitator is fixed vertical in the centre.
 The agitator has blades or fins.
 The movement of agitator forces the water through the clothes.
 The movement of agitator may either rotational or oscillating.
b) Pulsation:
 In some top-loading machine the movement is vertical pulsator.
 The pulsator moves up & down vertically & rapidly.
 Maximum care is required in loading clothes to prevent excessive
entangling of clothes.

c) Tumbling:
 Washing takes place in horizontally placed drum or cylinder.
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 Perforated and revolves inside a partially filled tub of water.
 No agitator or pulsator.
 The clothes are carried near the top by a series of baffles and dropped
in to wash water.

Only in tumbling the clothes moves through water and in other two process the water
moves through the cloth.
5. The rinsing:
Rinsing is a very important stage. Improper rinsing affects the appearance of
clothes. Improper rinsing may occur hard, grey & dingy.
There are 3 types of rinses
a) Spray rinse
 Clean water is injected to the spinning tub.
 This rinse is most effective in removing dirt and detergent residue.
 Flush out all the suds at the end of wash phase.
b) Power rinse
 Rinse is repetition of wash cycle.
 Water temperature is warm or cold.
 Wash tub is filled with water agitation, pulsation or tumbling occurs to
remove dirt & detergent residue.
c) Over flow rinse
 Water continuously over flow on the wash tub and the dirt & detergent
residues are floated over the top of the tub.
 Heavy dirt or sand will not float and can’t be removed.
 Excessive amount of water are used in this type of rinse.
6. Water extraction:
Removal of rinse water from clothes and tub.
There are three ways to remove the water.
a) Spinning

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 Automatic washers provided with a solid wash tub or with perforated
wash tub remove the water by spinning.
 Spinning speed is 300 rpm.
 The centrifugal force allows the water up and out over the top rim of
tub which is pumped down & drain.
b) Bottom drain
 Some washer with perforated wash tub drain through the bottom.
 The drain period is 2 minutes.
 After draining spinning is carried out to remove the water from the
clothes.
c) Combination bottom – drain & spin
 Some washers with perforated wash tub drain through bottom.
 Bottom draining occurs during spin
 Spinning & draining occurs at the same time and it is the best water
extraction.

DRYING EQUIPMENTS

Outdoor drying equipments


Pegs
A clothespin or clothes-peg is a fastener used to hang up clothes for drying, usually on a
clothes line. Clothespins often come in many different designs. It is made up of wood, steel,
plastics etc. wooden pegs are more preferable because it is long lasting. Metal pegs causes rust
stains on cloths. Plastic peg breaks easily.

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Clothesline

A clothes line or washing line is any type of rope, cord, or twine that has been stretched
between two points (e.g. two sticks), outside or indoors, above the level of the ground. Clothing
that has recently been washed is hung along the line to dry, using clothes pegs or clothespins.
Washing lines are attached either from a post or a wall, and are frequently located in back
gardens, or on balconies. Longer washing lines often have props holding up sections in the
middle due to the weight of the usually wet clothing.

Advantages of a clothes line

 Saves money
 Less fabric wear and tear
 Laundry items do not shrink
 Laundry items often do not need ironing if line dried in a breeze
 Eliminates the noise from a mechanical clothes dryer

Disadvantages of using a clothes line

 Putting laundry on a line usually takes more time than putting it into a mechanical dryer
 Laundry items need to be hung indoors during rainy weather, or may get wet if the
weather changes.

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 Risk of theft or vandalism of clothes
 Environmental contaminants such as soil, dust, smoke, automotive or industrial
pollutants, pollen and bird and animal droppings can come in contact with clothing.
 Clothespins can leave imprints on the clothes.

Hills Hoist

A Hills Hoist is a height-adjustable rotary clothes line, designed to permit the compact
hanging of wet clothes and their maximum area to be exposed to drying by wind rotation.

The Hills Hoist has been manufactured in Adelaide, South Australia by Lance Hill since
1945. The Hills Hoist and similar rotary clothes hoists remain a common fixture in many.

Indoor drying equipments


Drying rack or Clothes horse

A clothes horse sometimes called a clothes rack, drying horse, clothes maiden, drying
rack, drying stand, Frostick, airer. It is a frame upon which clothes are hung after washing,
indoors or outdoors, to dry by evaporation. The frame is usually made of wood, metal or plastic.
It helps to save space in an apartment or clothes lines can be strung in the basement during the
winter.

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Types of drying racks

There are many types of drying racks, including large, stationary outdoor racks, smaller,
folding portable racks, and wall-mounted drying racks. A drying rack is similar in usage and
function to a clothes line, and used as an alternative to the powered clothes dryer.

A pulley clothes airer, sometimes described as "Victorian" can be loaded and unloaded at
a convenient height and hoisted out of the way to ceiling height while the clothes dry. The
frames are suspended from the ceiling by a system of rope and pulleys. The result is a hoistable
rack with several parallel bars on which clothes can be draped out of the way, or hung, extending
further down, with clothes hangers.

Drying cabinet
A drying cabinet is an electrical machine designed to expedite the drying of items -
usually clothing - that are unsuitable for a traditional clothes dryer. Such items may include
delicate clothing designated as "hang dry", "dry flat" or "do not tumble dry" on their wash
instructions, as well as items such as comforters, boots and coats.
Drying cabinets are particularly useful in industrial applications for the quick drying of
wet weather clothing such as that worn by emergency services like fire fighters. . Clothing can be
dried in one hour.

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Clothes dryer

A clothes dryer, tumble dryer, or drying machine is a powered household appliance


that is used to remove moisture from a load of clothing and other textiles, usually shortly after
they are washed in a washing machine. Clothes may also be dried by natural evaporation and, if
available, sunlight on an outdoor or indoor clothes line or clothes horse.

Many dryers consist of a rotating drum called a "tumbler" through which heated air is
circulated to evaporate the moisture, while the tumbler is rotated to maintain air space between
the articles. Using these machines may cause clothes to shrink or become less soft (due to loss of
short soft fibers/lint). A simpler non-rotating machine called a "drying cabinet" may be used for
delicate fabrics and other items not suitable for a tumble dryer.

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Types

 Tumbler dryers
 Microwave dryers
 Ventless dryers

o Spin dryers
o Condenser dryers
o Heat pump dryers
o Mechanical steam compression dryers
o Convectant drying
o Solar clothes dryer

Coat hangers

A clothes hanger, coat hanger, or coathanger, is a device in the shape of:

 Human shoulders designed to facilitate the hanging of a coat, jacket, sweater, shirt,
blouse or dress in a manner that prevents wrinkles, with a lower bar for the hanging of
trousers or skirts.

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 Clamp for the hanging of trousers, skirts, or kilts. Both types can be combined in a single
hanger.

There are three basic types of clothes hangers.

Wire hanger- a simple loop of wire, most often steel in a flattened triangle shape that continues
into a hook at the top.

Wooden hanger- consists of a flat piece of wood cut into a boomerang-like shape. Some wooden
hangers have a rounded bar and a flattened triangle.

Plastic coat hangers - mostly the shape of either a wire or wooden hanger. Plastic coat hangers
are also produced in smaller sizes to accommodate the shapes of children's clothes.

IRONING

Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric. The heating
is commonly done to a temperature of 180–220 °Celsius, depending on the fabric. Ironing works
by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material.

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Iron

The iron is the small appliance used to remove wrinkles from fabric. It is also known as a
clothes iron, flat iron, or smoothing iron. The piece at the bottom is called a sole plate. Ironing
uses heat energy, chemical energy, electrical energy, and mechanical energy.

Types of iron

Historically, irons have had several variations and have thus been called by many names:

 Flatiron or smoothing iron

The general name for a hand-held iron consisting simply of a handle and a solid, flat,
metal base, and named for the flat ironing face used to smooth clothes.

 Sad iron or sadiron

Mentioned above, meaning "solid" or heavy iron, where the base is a solid block of
metal, sometimes used to refer irons with heavier bases than a typical "flatiron".

 Box iron, ironing box, charcoal iron, ox-tongue iron or slug iron

Mentioned above; the base is a container, into which hot coals or a metal brick or slug
can be inserted to keep the iron heated. The ox-tongue iron is named for the particular
shape of the insert, referred to as an ox-tongue slug.

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 Goose, tailor's goose or, in Scottish, gusing iron

A type of flat iron or sad iron named for the goose-like curve in its neck, and (in the case
of "tailor's goose") its usage by tailors.

 Goffering iron

This type of iron, now obsolete, consists of a metal cylinder oriented horizontally on a
stand. It was used to iron ruffs and collars.
 Steam iron

The majority of irons on the market are steam irons. These irons include a small water
tank. The tank is filled with water, allowing the iron to produce steam. Steam will help
create a smoother press job and neater finish when ironing fabrics like cotton or linen. A
burst of steam is a common feature, allowing you to work on stubborn wrinkles.
Additional features, including an auto shut-off and retractable cord, may be available on
some steam irons.

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 Vertical Steam

A recent innovation in clothes irons is the vertical steam iron. This iron produces
steam like a standard steam iron, but can steam vertically as well as horizontally.
Steaming alone may reduce many wrinkles and can offer a fast alternative to traditional
ironing. You will spend more for this feature, but it can be an excellent time saver.

 Deluxe Clothes Irons

The best quality irons include excellent steam features, easy temperature controls,
auto shut-off and a retractable cord. Deluxe irons will also include higher quality non-
stick sole plates, multiple steam holes and steam tanks that are easier to fill up. While an
iron costing $100 or more may be excessive for many people, if you sew or regularly iron
heavy duty fabrics, it may be well worth the money.

 Travel Irons

Travel irons are smaller and lighter than standard irons. Many fold up to make
them more compact for packing. They may or may not offer steam capabilities. Some
may be cordless. If you travel regularly, a travel-sized iron can be useful. However, many
hotels have irons in the rooms or available at the front desk, so this may be less essential
than you think. Choose a travel iron that is small, easy to use and will work well for your
personal travel needs.
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 Electric irons
Electric irons are much lighter and easy to use than traditional irons. Heat, less
weight does the work in automatic, thermostatically controlled irons. The thermostat
makes it possible to reduce the weight of the iron by as much as three pounds. It allows
the selection of different temperatures settings for various fabrics and maintains the iron
at these temperatures. Thus electric iron can be used at hotter temperatures then
traditional irons.

Ironing board

Most ironing is done on an ironing board, a small, portable, foldable table with a heat
resistant surface. Some commercial-grade ironing boards incorporate a heating element and a
pedal-operated vacuum to pull air through the board and dry the garment.

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Types

Classic ironing board: This table is coated to protect the table from the steam and heat of the
iron. Mainly used to iron house hold articles.

Free-standing ironing boards: These are the most common ones found in American
households. They are lightweight and to be easily moved from room to room. One advantage of
these ironing boards is the ability to adjust the height of the board, whether to accommodate
different users or to allow you to stand or sit while ironing. Another advantage is the amount of
ironing surface, as these boards are usually wider and longer than any other type of board.

Over-the-door ironing boards: These are popular for dorms and sewing rooms, but they have
some safety issues that do not make them a good choice for most ironing tasks. These over-the-
door models are not sturdy enough for heavy duty ironing, but they do work well in a pinch, if
mounted properly and used with extreme caution.

Built-in ironing boards: These are becoming more popular. The board can either be mounted in
a cabinet or in a drawer, which makes them easy to set up and put away. These ironing boards
are smaller than a freestanding board, but are very sturdy and functional for your everyday
ironing needs.

Portable Ironing Boards: Portable ironing boards are still the most common in American
homes. They can be moved to where ever in the house ironing is done, and have extendable legs
that fold out for use, and fold away for storage. Portable ironing boards are designed to be both
sturdy enough so they will not collapse while ironing and also lightweight enough so they can be
easily moved around. An advantage of portable ironing boards is the ability to adjust the height
to suit the user.

Table Top Ironing Boards: The table-top board - has short legs and is designed to sit on a table
top or counter. These ironing boards are popular with dorm students because they are easy to
carry around and set up in a confined space.

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Wall Mounted Ironing Boards: It is becoming more popular, is one that folds out from the wall
or from a closet. These wall-mounted ironing boards are particularly convenient in smaller
houses or apartments, where space is limited, as they can be stored away virtually flat against the
wall. Wall-mounted ironing boards can be installed in confined areas, even in walk-in closets.
Many people prefer wall-mounted ironing boards, even in larger houses, as they are so
convenient. They are huge time-savers, taking only a few seconds to deploy and put away,
avoiding the need to carry the board and unfold awkward collapsible legs.

Sleeve board: Sleeve board is a small ironing board used for ironing small articles like sleeve.

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UNIT - III

STIFFENING AGENTS
 A certain amount of crispness in apparel and household linen gives them a fresh look.
This crisp appearance is obtained by using stiffeners.
 In common language stiffening is said as starching. Stiffening agents may be natural,
modified or synthetic products.
Classification of stiffening agent
Natural
 Starches : maize or corn, wheat,rice, sago, potato, tapioca, arrowroot
 Gums: Arabic, tragacanth, karaya, locust beans, guar, agar.
 Glues: gelatin, albumin, casein
Modified natural
 Soluble starches: pergelatinized, acid modified, dextrin, oxidized, chlorinated.
 Cellulose derivatives: carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), hydroxyethyl cellulose,
methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose caprylate
 Gums: meyprogum, indulca
 Glues: soyabean
Synthetic
Vinyl: polyvinyl pyrolidone, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl ethers.
Acrylic: polyacrylic acid and its derivates. Polyacrylamides.
STARCH
 Starch or amylum is a carbohydrate consisting of a large number of glucose units
joined by glycosidic bonds.
 This polysaccharide is produced by most green plants as an energy store.
 It is the most common carbohydrate in human diets and is contained in large amounts
in staple foods such as potatoes, wheat, maize (corn), rice, and cassava.
 Pure starch is a white, tasteless and odorless powder that is insoluble in cold water or

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alcohol.
 It consists of two types of molecules: the linear and helical amylose and the branched
amylopectin.
 Depending on the plant, starch generally contains 20 to 25% amylose and 75 to 80%
amylopectin by weight.
 Glycogen, the glucose store of animals, is a more branched version of amylopectin.
 Clothing or laundry starch is a liquid that is prepared by mixing a vegetable starch in
water and is used in the laundering of clothes.
 Starch was widely used in Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries to stiffen the wide
collars and ruffs of fine linen which surrounded the necks of the well-to-do.
 During the 19th century and early 20th century, it was stylish to stiffen the collars and
sleeves of men's shirts and the ruffles of girls' petticoats by applying starch to them as
the clean clothes were being ironed.
 Aside from the smooth, crisp edges it gave to clothing, it served practical purposes as
well.
 Dirt and sweat from a person's neck and wrists would stick to the starch rather than to
the fibers of the clothing, and would easily wash away along with the starch.
 After each laundering, the starch would be reapplied.
 Today, the product is sold in aerosol cans for home use.
Corn starch

It is manufactured by soaking corn in warm water and sulphur dioxide for 2 days.the
kernel softens. It is then separated from germ.

The kernel is then groung and sifted.

The starch is separated from the gluten, filtered, washed, dried and packaged. Corn
starch gives crisp effect.
Wheat starch
It is prepared by kneading wheat flour into a dough and then washing out the starch by a
stream of water.
This is then filtered, dried and packaged.
Rice starch

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It is made by soaking the grain in an alkaline chemical which dissolves the gluten
leaving behind the starch.

Rice grain is steeped in dilute ammonia or sodium hydroxide solution to soften it.

It is then ground to a very fine paste.

This is washed and separated by centrifugation.

This is then dried and packed. Rice starch gives clothes a boardy effect.

It makes the fabric firm because it hs good penetration into the cellulosic fibre.
Potato starch

It is used to a great extent in Europe.

The manufacturing process consists in mashing or rasping the thoroughly washed
potatoes.

The pulp is then washed a number of times to remove the free starch.

The wash waters are centrifuged.

The starch obtained is further refined by washing and sedimentation.

It is then dried and packed.
Arrowroot and tapioca

The manufacturing process consists in mashing or rasping the thoroughly washed
arrow root or tapioca.

The pulp is then washed a number of times to remove the free starch.

The wash waters are centrifuged. The starch obtained is further refined by washing
and sedimentation. It is then dried and packed.
Sago starch
Sago starch gives good stiffness, unfortunately it gives a surface film which tends to
crack on folding.
OTHER STIFFENING AGENTS
Gums
Gum Arabic

Gum Arabic also known as gum senegul is exudate of tree belonging to Acacia
Arabia.

It is marketed as round or irregular shaped lumps, varying in size and in colour.

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The colour varies from pale yellow to a deep brownish red.

It is slightly acidic in nature. It is used to stiffen silk fabrics.

Gum tragacanth

It is the exudates od leguminous plants like astragalus gummiferae.

It is marketed as yellow to white dry, horny scales.

These swell in water giving a thick gel. The paste is neutral.
Gum karaya
 It is the exudates of the sterculia tree.it is relatively soluble in water.
Locust bean gum

It occurs in the endosperm of the leguminosae plant family.

It is netural and soluble in water.
Guargum
It is obtained from the endosperm of the gur plant seed. It gives high viscosity pastes.
Agar
It is obtained from sea-weed. It is gelatinous and is used mainly in food preparations.
Glues

Glues are obtained from animal hides, tendons, bones and blood.

These are high in collagen.

Gelatin is a mixture of proteins obtained by hydrolysis of collagen by boiling skins,
ligaments, tendons, bones and blood. It is purer glue.
Casein glue

Casein is a colloidal aggregate composed of several proteins together with
phosphorous and calcium.
 Casein is manufactured mainly in Australia, newzealand, argentina and united
states.
Soya bean glue
Soya bean glue is manufactured from soya bean. It is a vegetable glue.
Synthetic stiffeners
Synthetic stiffeners are thermoplastic resins.

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They are either polyvinyl or polyacrylonitrile polymers.
The compound is mostly used for poly vinyl acetate.

PREPARATION OF STARCH
a) Boiling water starch

Ingredients:
Starch - 1tb sp
Cold water - 2 tbsp
Borax - 1 ¼ tsp
Wax - ¼ tsp
Boiling water - 1 pint (500 ml)
Procedure:
 Mix starch with cold water to make a smooth paste in a basin.
 Add borax & wax
 Pour boiling water
 Stirrer well
 Stop stirring when the solution becomes jelly
 Add little formalin for antimicrobes

Application:
 Jelly is diluted with cold water depends on the amount of stiffness
 Add equal amount of cold water as ratio 1:1
 The ratio varies for cotton and linen
b) Cold water starch

Ingredients:
Rice starch - 1 tbsp
Borax - ½ tsp
Turpentine - 3 drops
Cold water - ½ pint (250 ml)

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Boiling water - 1 tbsp
Procedure:
 Mix borax with cold water to make a smooth paste
 Add cold water
 Pour the mixture over the starch
 Add turpentine
 Stir well
 Strain using muslin cloth
 Use after half an hour

Application:
 Washed fabric is dried before starching
 Articles kneaded and squeezed in starch solution
 Rub with a muslin cloth to remove excess of starch
 Wrung out in cold water
 For great stiffness iron quickly when still wet

OPTICAL WHITENERS
White cloths lose whiteness and has yellow tint after using and washing it number of
times.
There are three methods to regain white.
 Bleaching – remove the yellow
 Laundry blue – cover the yellow
 Fluorescent Brightening Agents – absorb the yellow

BLEACHING AGENTS
Definition
o The process of decolouration of natural pigments is called the bleaching”
 Bleaching is the most important part of wet processing.
 Bleaching is done for removing natural color of the textile materials.
 During pre treatment of the textile materials different parameter is maintained strictly.

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 Bleaching is done by different types of bleaching agents.
 Good bleach gives good white to the fabric without any damage.
 There are two chemical reaction occurs while bleaching oxidation or reduction.
 User must know the nature of each bleach, its mode of action, effects on different fibre &
fabrics in various concentration, pH, time and temperature.
 Bleaches are powder, liquid & cakes.
CLASSIFICATION
1. Oxidizing bleaches – liberation of oxygen
Bleaching done by the means of oxidation.
Vegetable and fruit stains are removed by an oxidizing bleach.
 Sodium hypochlorite NaOCl
 Salt of hypochlorous acid
 Available in aqueous solution
 Stored in a cool dark place not exposed to light
 Contains 15-18% of chlorine
 Manufactured by dissolving chlorine with sodium carbonate or sodium hydroxide
Na2CO3 + Cl2 NaOCl + NaCl+ CO2
2NaOH + Cl2 NaOCl + NaCl+ H2O
 Store it in low temperature, high alkalinity and high concentration.
 Bleaching powder Ca(OCl)Cl
 Traditional bleach for cotton
 Used in commerecial laundries
 Hypochlorite of calcium
 It is a double salt
 White in colour
 Amorphous powder with chlorine smell
 When contact with air it decomposes so store in air tight containers
 Good bleaching powder has 38% of chlorine
 Attacks metals, forming oxides and hydroxides. So not used in laundries now a
days.

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 Hydrogen peroxide H2O2
 It is a universal bleaching agent
 It is Clear colourless liquid
 Stored in a dark bottle and keep away from sunlight
2H2O2 2H2O + O2
 Commercially available in 10, 20, 30 and 100 volumes
 It is the only bleaching agent used for protein fibers
 Sodium perborate NaBO2.H2O.3 H2O
 It is a white crystalline powder
 Manufactured by reacting borax with caustic soda
 Used for all fibers like vegetable, animal and synthetic
 Universal bleach
 Sodium chlorite NaClO2
 Suitable for cellulosic and synthetic fibers
 Fine crystalline powder
 Manufactured by reacting chlorine peroxide with sodium peroxide
 Available in two forms hydrated and anhydrous
 Anhydrous used in bleaching
 Soluble in water
 For mild oxidizing power mixed it with cold water
 For strong oxidizing power mixed it with hot water
 Traditional bleaching agent
2. Reducing bleaches – removal of oxygen
It reduces the oxygen and removes the stain by reduction.
 Sodium hydro sulphite Na2S2O4
 Also known as sodium dithionite
 It is a white in colour
 Manufactured by reacting sodium hydroxide with zinc dithionite
ZnS2O4 + NaOH Na2S2O4 + Zn (OH)2
 Industrial and institutional bleaching agent

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 Available in liquid and powder
 Fabric damage is less while using this chemical
 Sodium bisulphite NaHSO3
 Sodium bisulphate is a very mils reducing agent
 Manufactured by treating sulphuric acid and caustic soda
Application:
 Mix sodium bisulphate with water
 Dip the stain until stain removed
 Wash and dry
 Sodium thiosulphate Na2S2O3
 Used for cotton fabric
 Mix sodium thiosulphate and water
 Treat the stain with the solution
 Rinse the fabric with water
 Treat with sodium bisulphate
 Wash and dry
LAUNDRY BLUES

Bluing, laundry blue, dolly blue or washing blue is a household product used to
improve the appearance of textiles, especially white fabrics.

Used during laundering, it adds a trace of blue dye (often synthetic
ultramarine, sometimes Prussian blue) to the fabric.

White fabrics acquire a slight color cast after use (usually grey or yellow).

Since blue and yellow are complementary colors in the subtractive color model of
color perception, adding a trace of blue color to the slightly off-white color of these
fabrics makes them appear whiter.
Depending upon their solubility in water, blues are classified into two categories:-
•Insoluble blues– Do not form clear solution in water e.g., ultramarine and Prussian blue.
•Soluble blue – When dissolved in water, form clear solutions e.g., coal – tar dyes,
methyl violet and methylene blue.
APPLICATION

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Laundry bluing is an "old-fashioned" product that helps make whites appear to be whiter.
Manufacturers use it in the finishing process of white goods because a blue tint tricks the eye to
make white appear brighter. Unfortunately, the bluing wears off after repeated washings.
 Always dilute bluing in cold water before adding to any type of washer.
 To whiten whites in a standard wash cycle, stir 1/4 teaspoon liquid bluing into one
quart of water.
 Use a glass jar to prevent staining plastic containers.
 Then add the solution to the wash water.
 If adding bluing only to the rinse cycle, use 1/8 teaspoon dissolved in a quart of
water.
 Dilute the bluing in 1 to 2 quarts of water and add it.
 Dilute the bluing as directed on the bottle and then put as much diluted bluing.
 Bluing can be used with detergent but should not be used with bleach, fabric
softener or any other laundry product.
 There will be no hazardous fumes, but the other products will cause spotting or
staining if used with bluing.
FLUORESCENT BRIGHTENING AGENTS (FBAS)
 It is a colourless compound
 Also known as white dyes
 Have strong tendency to absorb light
 White fabric become gray or yellow because it absorbs more violet, indigo and blue and
reflects less of these colours.
 White reflects light and black absorbs light
 Light is made up of seven colours violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange and red.
(VIBGYOR)
 There is more yellow rays in the reflected light due to which the fabric looks yellow.
FBAS for cotton textiles
o Commercial products
 Diamino stilbene
 Stilbyl triazoles

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 Stryryl stibenes
o Brands
 Blankophor B
 Pontamine white 2G
 Fluoresent purple 2G
FBAS for wool textiles
o Commercial products
 Triazinyl amino stilbenes
 Pyrazolines
 Amino coumarins
FBAS for synthetic textiles
o Commercial products
 Stilbyl triazoles
 Bisbenzox azoles
 Couramins
GREASE SOLVENTS
Grease solvents in dry cleaning include solvents like
Inflammable
Petrol
Benzine
Non-inflammable
Carbon tretra chloride
Trichloroethylene
Tetrachlorethane
Commercial preparations eg. Dry cleaning soaps
Good solvents are completely non-inflamable.
The principle underlying the use is the same in both cases.
Commercial preparations like dry cleaning soaps are available.
The use of this soap increases the cleansing power of dry cleaning solvents.

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A very small amount should be spread over the grease spots and solid parts before the
garment is immersed for cleansing.
Mineral turpentine is a good solvent for grease particularly for paint.
Brush the garment well to remove all dust.
Have sufficient petrol in bowls to clean the garment by hand squeezing, or using a
suction washer and cleaning petrol to rinse.
Immerse the article in an ordinary bath, as it is cleaned by means of a suction washer.
After cleaning, squeeze out as much petrol as possible, wrap in a dry towel or cloth and beat.
Hang outside to dry for one day to remove the outdoor left behind by the solvent, after
which any creases and other parts needing attention are pressed.
Press when thoroughly dry.
Leave the used petrol in a covered bowl to allow the dirt to settle.
After settling, the petrol should be carefully poured off the top and the sediment thrown over
open ground.
Never throw it down the drain or over grass.
Petrol can also be reclimed by straining through chamois leather.
This petrol can be used as the first petrol for the next cleaning.
GREASE ABSORBENTS
This method is suitable for removing grease spots from all kinds of material for cleaning
light-coloured fabrics that are evenly soiled and for articles such as furs and dark coloured gloves
that cannot be cleaned by solvents alone.
The common absorbents are
Starch
Magnesium carbonate
French chalk
Fullers earth
Bran
Moong powder
Bread crumbs
Other commercial dry cleaners

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Absorbents are useful for cleaning grease marks on white cloths,light coloured fabrics,
white lace, furs, shawls and felt hats.
Shake or brush off loose dirt from the garment.
Spread thick layer of the absorbent powder over it and rub it lightly with a circular
motion.
Leave for half an hour to allow the powder to absorb the grease.
Bran, moong powder and bread crumbs are used warm.
They are useful for cleaning dark coloured felts, furs, camelhair, teddy bear coats and
grease soiled saris.
Heat the bran powder till dry to improve its absorbing power.
Rub well into the articles being cleaned.
Leave for 30 min.
Shake and brush out until all the absorbents is removed.
It is not so effective for cleaning heaviely soiled articles with greasy dirt.
Bran
Bran is used warm. They are useful for cleaning dark coloured felts, furs, camelhair, teddy
bear coats and grease soiled saris.
Put a handful of bran into a muslin bag about the size of a kitchen sponge. Tie or sew the
top of the bag together.
Put the bran-filled bag into the microwave and heat for half a minute
Remove the warmed bag from the microwave. Use it to rub over the stained material. The
dirt and dust will lift out of the material.
Brush off any particles left on the material.
French chalk
French chalk is a soft white granular variety of steatite used especially for drawing lines
on cloth and for removing grease in dry cleaning
To remove grease from silk, lay the silk on a table on top of a clean white cloth.
Cover the spot thickly with powdered French chalk.
On this lay a sheet of blotting paper and over that a moderately hot iron.
If the grease does not disappear at once, repeat process.

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UNIT - IV
LAUNDERING
Laundering -Meaning
Laundering means removing dirt from clothes by washing and then finishing them (i.e,
starching, ironing) thereby giving them a neat and clean appearance.
PRINCIPLES OF WASHING
Washing
The process of washing involves removal of dirt that has been loosened from fabrics by
soaking. There are many ways to do this and the choice depends on the fabric being washed.
i. Friction method:
For washing strong fabrics like cotton and linen Friction is applied in any of the
following three ways.
•Hand friction:
This is the most common method of washing clothes. Rub dirty areas vigorously
with the hand till the dirt is removed. It is suitable for cleaning very soiled small sized
areas in the garment like cuffs, collar and bottom of the lower garments, handkerchief
and lace.
•Scrubbing brush:
While cleaning kitchen dusters which are very soiled use a brush to remove dirt,
grease and stains. Place the fabric on a flat hard surface before scrubbing. Hard scrubbing
can clean the fabric well but wears it out. Therefore, scrubbing has to be used as per the
nature of the fabric.
•Beating stick:
While washing large clothes like bed sheets and towels use a wooden beating
stick to provide friction. This is done only on a clean, flat and hard surface. Spread the
fabric on the floor, apply soap and then beat it with the stick, constantly changing the
surface of the fabric with the other hand.
ii. Washing by kneading and squeezing:

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This method is for delicate fabrics like silk, wool, rayon, etc. This does not damage the
fabric or change its shape because only gentle pressure is
applied repeatedly with hands. While it is still in the soapy solution. While using this method dip
the cloth in soap solution, take it out and squeeze gently and again dip in the soap. In between
rub the dirty areas gently between two hands. Repeat till clean.
iii. Washing in machines:
‘Washing machine’ a labour saving device and provides all the friction required for
cleaning the clothes. The washing time varies with the type of fabrics and amount of soiling. For
example, wool fabric stake less time for cleaning than cottons. Washing machines available in
the market are automatic, semi-automatic and non-automatic.
The advantage of using automatic washing machine is that it has a spinner which can
wring the clothes after washing to the extent that these are almost dry. This is especially useful
while washing large and heavy articles like bedcovers, curtains, etc. The instructions about using
the machine should be read carefully before using it. Be careful while loading clothes for
washing in a machine as the colour of some fabrics may bleed and spoil the other clothes in the
machine.
Washing Machines: Types and Functions

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1. Household Washing Machines
Household washing machines are primarily designed for personal use and smaller loads
of laundry. Types include:

Top-loading washing machines: Clothes are loaded from the top; these are user-friendly
and widely used.
Front-loading washing machines: Clothes are loaded from the front; known for efficient
water and detergent use.
Semi-automatic washing machines: Require manual intervention to transfer clothes from
washer to dryer.
Fully automatic washing machines: Operate with minimal user input, combining
washing, rinsing, and drying.
2. Industrial Washing Machines

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Designed for heavy-duty cleaning and large loads, industrial washing machines are robust
and include advanced features for durability and efficiency. Types include:

Rotary Washing Machines:


Utilize a rotating drum to wash clothes. Widely used in commercial laundry setups, they are
known for uniform washing and energy efficiency.

Swirling Washing Machines:


Use a high-speed water jet or vortex to create a swirling motion, effectively removing dirt and
stains. Commonly used in industries dealing with delicate fabrics.

Pressure Washing Machines:


Operate with high-pressure water systems to clean heavily soiled fabrics. Suitable for industries
like hotels and hospitals.

Tumble Wash Machines:


Feature a rotating drum where clothes tumble during the washing cycle. They provide gentle yet
effective cleaning, widely used for textiles requiring careful handling.

Care Labeling Systems


Care labels provide critical information on garment handling to ensure durability and maintain
quality. The labels typically use internationally recognized symbols standardized by ISO
(International Organization for Standardization).

Key Components of Care Labels:

Washing Instructions: Temperature, hand-wash/machine-wash suitability, or no washing


allowed.
Bleaching Instructions: Indicate whether bleach is safe and specify non-chlorine bleach if

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required.
Drying Instructions: Guidance on tumble drying, natural drying (line/hang dry), or restrictions.
Ironing Instructions: Suggested temperatures and if steaming is permissible.
Professional Cleaning: Information on dry cleaning or wet cleaning procedures.
Common Care Symbols:

SYMBOL INSTRUCTION
Garment may be laundered
Machine Wash, through the use of hottest
Normal available water, detergent or soap,

agitation, and a machine designed
for this purpose.
Machine Wash, Initial water temperature should
Cold not exceed 30C or 65 to 85F
Machine Wash, Initial water temperature should
Warm not exceed 40C or 105F.
Machine Wash, Initial water temperature should
Hot not exceed 50C or 120F.
Machine Wash, Initial water temperature should
Hot not exceed 60C or 140F.
Machine Wash, Initial water temperature should
Hot not exceed 70C or 160F.
Machine Wash, Initial water temperature should
Hot not exceed 95C or 200F
Garment may be machine
Machine Wash, laundered only on the setting
Permanent Press designed to preserve Permanent
Press with cool down or cold rinse
prior to reduced spin.

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Garment may be machine
Machine Wash, laundered only on the setting
Gentle or Delicate designed for gentle agitation
and/or reduced time for delicate
items.
Garment may be laundered
Hand Wash through the use of water,
detergent or soap and gentle hand
manipulation.
Garment may not be safely
Do Not Wash laundered by any process.
Normally accompanied by
Dry Clean instructions.

BLEACHING INSTRUCTION
SYMBOL INSTRUCTION
Any commercially available bleach
Bleach when product may be used in the
needed laundering process.

Only a non-chlorine, color-safe


Non-chlorine bleach may be used in the laundering
bleach when process. Chlorine bleach may not be
needed used.

No bleach product may be used. The


Do not bleach garment is not colorfast or
structurally able to withstand any
bleach.

DRYING AND IRONING INSTRUCTION


SYMBOL INSTRUCTION

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Tumble dry, A machine dryer may be regularly
used at the hottest available
normal temperature setting.

Tumble dry, A machine dryer may be regularly


normal, low used at a maximum of Low Heat
heat setting.
Tumble dry, A machine dryer may be regularly
normal, used at a maximum of Medium Heat
medium heat setting.
Tumble dry, A machine dryer may be regularly
normal, high used at a High Heat setting.
heat
Tumble dry, A machine dryer may be regularly
normal, no heat used only at No Heat or Air Only
setting.
Tumble dry, A machine dryer may be regularly
Permanent used only at the Permanent Press
Press setting.
Tumble dry, A machine dryer may be regularly
gentle used only at the Gentle setting.

Do not tumble A machine dryer may not be used.


dry Usually accompanied by an alternate
drying method symbol
Do not dry A machine dryer may not be used.
Usually accompanied by an alternate
drying method symbol.
Line dry Hang damp garment from line or bar,
in or out doors.
Drip dry Hang dripping wet garment from line
or bar, in or out doors, without hand
shaping or smoothing.
Dry Flat Lay out horizontally for drying

Dry In Shade Usually added to Line or Drip Dry.


Dry away from direct sunlight.

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Iron, any Regular ironing may be needed and
temperature, may be performed at any available
Steam or Dry temperature with or without steam is
acceptable.
Iron, low Regular ironing, steam or dry, may be
performed at Low setting (110C,
230F) only.
Iron, medium Regular ironing, steam or dry, may be
performed at Medium setting (150C,
300F).
Iron, high Regular ironing, steam or dry, may be
performed at High setting (200C,
290F).
Do not steam Steam ironing will harm garment, but
regular dry ironing at indicated
temperature setting is acceptable.

Placement of label in a garment:

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UNIT - V
Principles and Methods or Washing (or ) Methods of Laundering and their
Principles:
Laundering of clothes consists of two processes – the process of removing dirt from the clothes
and the process of finishing them to regain the appearance of neatness as a new fabric.
Methods Of Cleaning:
 The methods used for removing dirt and cleaning the clothes depend on the nature of
the fabric and the kind of dirt.
 The dirt that soils the fabric consists of the dust particles, which are either on the
surface of the fabric or are held in the fabric by grease.
 The loose dust particles may be removed by shaking, brushing or by the action of
pedesis in steeping.
 Pedesis is the natural movement of particls in liquids.
 For removing the dirt, it is necessary to remove the grease first from the fabrics by
mans of emulsification or absorption; and thus liberate the dust particles.
 The essential factor in the process of cleaning, therefore, is the use of a grease solvent
or asorbent to remove the grease and an application of hard or delicate pressure to
remove the dust. The application of pressure in done in four ways:
1. Application of Friction
2. Application of Light Pressure
3. Application of the Principle of Suction
4. Washing Machines
Application of Friction:
 This method should be applied to the washing of strong and durable fabrics. Eg.
Household linen and cotton clothes.
 Friction may applied by means of hand –rubbing or by means of some appliance such as
a brush or a scrubbing hoard. The dhob’s method of washing consists in beating the
clothes on a stone which also can be classified under this principle. But this method is not

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advisable as it causes uneven friction on cloths, stretches the clothes in parts and thus the
clothes wear out much quicker.
Hand Friction or Rubbing:
This is suitable for washing small articles which lightly soiled Eg. Blouses, hand kerchiefs etc.,
Method :
Requirements are hot water, a basin and a dry soap.
Wring out the article from the steeping water and place it is hot water. Squeeze it an then
wring it out of the hot water. Apply soap all over the article holding the material between the
hands rub one part of the material on another. This causes a permanent lather to be formed in the
rubbed portion, which cleanses the material. Rinse the article in hot water. Repeat the process if
the article is still drity.
Special Scrubbing by Brush:
This method is suitable for strong fabrics and articles which are very dirty such as
Jharans and apron overalls cuffs and neck – bands of coats.
Method:
Requirements are hot water, wooden board, dry soap, a scrubbing brush and a basin.
Place the article in hot water, and squeeze it is saturate it in hot water and wiring it out spread on
a flat surfacra and supply soap, Scrub the material in one direction, away from the worker,
causing a permanent lather in the fabric. Sprinkle some water on the surface while scrubbing.
Rinse the article in hot water, to removes the dirty soap.
Rubbing and Scrubbing:
This consists of both rubbing and scrubbing. This methods is suitable for any articles of
strong fabric that are soiled.
Method:
Requirements of scrubbing board, tub, a dry soap and hot water.
Place the scrubbing board in a tub or sink, half filled with hot water. Wring the article out of the
steeping water, place it in hot water. Squeeze out a portion of the article and place it flat on the
borad; apply soap on it, rub the part on the board to cause a permanent lather in the fabric.
Continue this till the whole article is soaped and rubbed well. Rinse out the article in hot water to

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remove the dirt. If the article is very soiled, use a brush to scrub.
Application of Light Pressure
This method should be applied to the washing of fine texture.

Kneading and squeezing:


This method is suitable for coloured articles and delicat fabrics. Eg. Coloured cottons,
silk, woolen and lace. The process consists of kneading and squeezing of the articles by hand in
the soap solution; since the application of pressure is very light, it does not damage the texture,
colour or weave of the fabric. This method does not require any special apparatus and so ti is
very easy to manipulate.
Method
Requirements are a basin or bowl, warm water, soap flakes or rita nut solution
Make a soap solution with hot water , add sufficient cold water to the solution to get the correct
temperature suitable for the fabric, shake the solution thoroughly to get a lather. Place the article
in the solution, squeeze it well to saturate it with the soap; knead and squeeze part of the article
at a time, continue this process, there should be some lather left over, Disappearance of lather
indicates that the article is till dirty and needs more soap, and use of several soap water is
therefore, requires to cleans the articles. The very dirty portion of the article, such as the neck –
bands and the sleeve bands should be lightly rubbed with the hand or a soft brush using extra
lather.
The first rinse should be in warm water to remove the dirty soap water, repeat rinsing in
two or three cold or hot waters as is suitable for, the fabric.
Application of Suction or Suction Washing:
This method is suitable for cleaning small and large articles of any fabric or colour. It is
generally used to cleans heavy articles such as trousers, coats, blankets which are not possible to
clean by kneading and squeezing and which will not stand friction. It is most practical method,
which saves time and labour. The apparatus require is a suction washer, plus a trub. For this also
the soap must be in solution.
Method
Prepare soap solution suing a suitable soap. Adjust the temperature by adding cold water

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to it as prescribed for the fabric. Place the article in the soap solution and press it with the suction
washer so that it is saturated with the solution. Then work the suction washer up and down in the
solution lightly pressing the article continue this process till the article is cleaned thoroughly.
Use a fresh soap solution if the article is very soiled. Rinse the article to remove the soiled soap
water, using warm water. Then rinse in cold or warm water as is suitable of the fabric.
Washing Machines:
In western countries, washing machines large and small are available. These are operated
by hand or means of electricity. All these work on the same principle of agitating the clothes in
soap water, thus bringing about the cleaning action. A washing machine therefore consists of two
portion. A container and a perforated cylinder in the container. Which by revolving agitates the
clothes in the soapy solution. The rotation is brought about by hand – power or by means of
electricity. There are a number of washing means available in the Indian make today but all of
these are worked by electricity, so only in big cities, where electricity is available, the housewife
should purchase a machine for the home laundry.
Two important factors should be taken into consideration befor the housewife buys and
electricity machine. Firstly, if it would be really economical for her to get it considering the
amount of work to be got out of it. Secondly she must acquire full and complete practical
knowledge of the washing machine and keeping it in working condition. For the latter she will
have to study the literature about the mechanism and working of any particular machine or of
several machines before making the purchase. She should also stipulate that the dealer gives her
adequate training in the use and the up keep of the machine.
Methods of Finishing:
Clothes after the process of cleaning get creased and need to be straightened to look like
now.
Finishing is the process used to straighten the clothes so that the appearance is attractive
and neat. The methods used for finishing is laundry are inoning, pressing, steaming, mangling
and calendaring, it is essential that the factors contain sufficient amount of moisture, so that it is
pliable enough to be pulled into shape during the process of finishing of finishing. Fabrics like
cotton and linen are damped before finishing. In cases like silk and wool, where the sprinkled
water does not spread evenly, these should be left half dry for finishing.

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Dumping:Is done to soften the texture of the fabric.
Rules:
1. Use warm water as it spreads more quickly.
2. First dump all the hems, folds and pleats by running wet fingers over them.
3. Spread the garment on a clean table, dip the hand in water and sprinkle it lightly
over the article.
4. Roll up the article and wrap in the towel and leave it for 15 to 20 minutes.
STAIN
A stain is an unwanted mark of discolouration on a fabric caused due to contact with
another substance. Generally, a stain requires special treatment for removal. stains must be
removed before washing as some of them may become permanent when exposed to chemicals in
soaps or detergents, hot water and ironing.
Classification of stains
Stains can be grouped on the basis of their origin, e.g., tea and coffee and many oils,
vanaspati and ghee come from vegetable source. While removing these stains you can use more
or less the same removing agents and method. Let us classify all stains on the basis of their
origin.
1.Vegetable stains-Tea, coffee, fruit
2. Grease stains-Butter, ghee, oil, curry, shoe polish, tar, oil paints
3. Animal stains-Blood, milk, egg
4. Mineral stains-Rust
5.Miscellaneous stains-Dye, ink, mildew, grass, perspiration

Techniques of stain removal


There are two methods of stain removal: (i) Sponging and (ii) Dipping. Let us learn how
stains are removed by using these methods.
Sponging
•Place an absorbent paper or fabric under the stain so that the right side of
the stain faces the absorbing surface. Sponging should always be done on
the wrong side of the stain.

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•Take a soft cloth, dip it in the stain-remover and gently rub the stain starting from its
outer corner moving inwards, towards the centre.
•Use light, circular strokes as these prevent the stain from spreading.
•The absorbent paper or fabric (commonly known as blotter) must be changed as soon as
it starts showing the stain.
Dipping
Dipping is the method in which the entire fabric can be immersed in the stain removing
agent. It is suitable if there are many stains or a large stain on the fabric. We can choose the stain
removing re-agent depending upon the type of stain. Some of the common reagents used for stain
removal are borax powder, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, oxalic acid and ready to use bleaches.

Type of stains and method of removal


1. Vegetable stains Tea, coffee, fruit, etc
Consideration for removal Use alkaline reagents such as borax powder to remove stains as
these are acidic in nature.
Stains White Cottons Coloured Cotton
tea/coffee, chocolate, fruit Fresh Soak in warm water
Pour boiling water on the stain and borax (2 cups of water +
½ teaspoon
of borax)
Old Same as for white cottons
Dip the stained portion
iglycerin. Or spread borax
powder over stain and pour
boiling water while holding
the stained portion on the
mouth of a mug or pan.
Henna (Menhdi) Fresh Same as for white cotton
Dip in warm milk for half an

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hour
Old Same as for white cotton
Repeat the above for 2 r 3
times
2.animal stains Blood, milk, egg, etc
Consideration for removal Avoid heat as these stains contain protein in which gets fixed
on heat treatment
Stains white cottons Coloured cottons
Blood, egg, meat Fresh Same as for white cotton
Wash with cold water and
soap
Old Same as for white cotton
Soak in salt water (2 table
spoons of salt + ½ bucket o
water) or in diluted ammonia
3.Grease stains Butter, ghee, oil, curry, shoe polish, tar, oil paints, etc

Consideration for removal Use grease absorbents and solvents like chalk, talcum powder
to remove greasy matter and then, remove
the colouring matter.
Stains white cottons Coloured cottons
butter, ghee, oil, curry Fresh same as for white
wash with hot water, and soap. cottons, but leave it
Dry on grass or shrub/ plant in in shade
the sunlight

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old
Make a paste of soap and same as for white cottons but
water and apply it on the stain. leave in shade.
Leave it wet in the sunlight
until it is removed
paint, shoe polish, nail fresh same as for white cottons
polish, lipstick, ball pen Scrape all the excess stain
(a) Sponge gently with
methylated spirit or kerosene
(b) Sponge with turpentine
Old same as for white cottons
Repeat the above method
two or three times
4.Mineral stains Rust and some medicines
Consideration for removal These stains contain metallic compounds and therefore, require
treatment with mild acidic reagents followed by alkaline
solutions to neutralise.
Stains white cottons Coloured cottons
Iron rust Fresh Same as for white cotton
Rub lime juice and salt
Old Same as for white
Apply dilute oxalic acid cotton
and neutralize with dilute
borax solution
5.Miscellaneous stains Dye, ink, mildew, grass, perspiration, etc.
Consideration for removal Give specific treatment to each of these stains.
Stains White cottons Coloured cottons
Grass Fresh Same as for white
Wash with soap and water cotton

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old Same as for white
Sponge the stained portion cotton
with methylated spirit
Betal leaf (paan) Fresh Same as for white cottons but
Apply a paste of onions and leave in shade
leave in the sunlight
Old Same as for white cotton
Repeat above method two or
three times
Ink Fresh Same as for white cotton
Wash with soap and cold
water
Old
(a) Soak in sour butter Same as for white cotton
milk(lassi) for half an hour except do not leave in sun, put
(b) Apply lime juice and salt it in shade
and leave in the sun
(c) Bleach the stain

GENERAL RULES AND WAYS OF STAIN REMOVING

 Treat stains promptly. Fresh stains are easier to remove than old ones. If the stain is on a
non-washable fabric, take it to the dry cleaner as soon as possible, and describe the nature
of the stain and the fiber content of the garment.
 Read and carefully follow package directions when using any stain removal product.
 Always test stain removers on an inside seam or other hidden part of garment for color
fastness. To test, apply product and let stand 2-5 minutes, then rinse. If color changes, do
not use product on garment.

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 When using a bleach, do not try to bleach just one area of garment; bleach the entire
garment to prevent uneven color removal.
 When treating, place stained area face down on a clean paper towel or white cloth. Apply
stain remover to the underside of the stain, forcing stain off the fabric surface instead of
through it.
 Never put chemical dry-cleaning solvents directly into washer.
 Thoroughly rinse and air dry areas treated with dry-cleaning solvents before placing in
washer, to avoid a fire.
 Do not mix stain removal products together. Some mixtures, such as ammonia and
chlorine bleach, can produce noxious fumes.
 Always launder washable items after treating to remove residues of the stain and the stain
remover.
 Do not machine dry stained clothing before the stain is completely removed. The heat of
the dryer can set the stain, making it permanent.
 Have patience; it takes a little extra time and effort to remove some stains.
 Remember, some stains cannot be removed.

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