c1 ON291 JulyAug 2024 Digital Edition R
c1 ON291 JulyAug 2024 Digital Edition R
What are Dan Lee’s top three tips on varnishing? Find out in our extensive interview with Dan at epifanes.com/newsletters.
Contents Issue #291 July/August 2024
14
Features
Ocean Voyaging
30 Indian Ocean Passage
A rough sail over a treacherous sea
by Bill Morris
Special Section
34
Getting a charge out of
thunderstorms
Protect your boat from the
4 ravages of storms.
by Ann Hoffner
Departments 40
Big Ocean Waves:
When and Where
Chartroom Chatter They Occur
4 Rolex China Sea Race 2024
Understanding waves is
5 Nigel Calder seminar in Portland, Maine
6 Marina Bahia Golfito
key to navigation.
by Ken McKinley
34
7 Notable New Titles
Marine Tech Notes
8 Boat Monitoring Systems
b y Bill Morris
Boat Focus
12 Doggersbank 60 Offshore: a new take
on a time-honored classic
by Julia Zaltzman
Power Voyaging
14 Cruising Quebec City,
7
20
Montreal and Ottawa
by Harry Hungate
Short Tacks
20 Storm tactics for small vessels
by Bill Morris
26 Using satellites to “sound”
atmosphere and ocean
by Ann Hoffner
28 Protect Your Boat from Lightning 8
by Bill Morris
On the cover: M/V Minnow, an 80-foot Doggersbank,
Nav Problem anchored in the San Blas Islands of Panama.
44 Captain Nat Palmer, discoverer, Photo courtesy of Doggersbank.
designer, sailor
30
For more voyaging, follow us on:
by David Berson
@oceannavmag @oceannavigator @oceannavmag
T H E V O YA G E R ’ S R E S O U R C E
PUBLISHER
Dave Abrams
Ken McKinley (Special Section, “Big ocean waves: when and where [email protected]
they occur,” page 40) earned a bachelor’s degree in Atmo- Kathleen Ford, general manager
[email protected]
spheric Sciences from Cornell University and attended 949-393-5440
graduate school at MIT where he participated in research
applying Doppler radar data to meteorological applica- EDITORIAL
tions. He worked for a large meteorological consulting EDITOR Bill Morris
[email protected]
firm for 10 years, providing forecast services for a variety
of clients worldwide. In 1991 he founded Locus Weather. DESIGN/PRODUCTION Kim Goulet Norton
While he serves a variety of clients, a significant portion COPY EDITOR Jennifer Vigil
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS John Kettlewell
of the business is focused on the marine community. Twain Braden
McKinley is well known in recreational yachting circles Ann Hoffner
Nigel Calder
and has provided weather routing services for many yachts Ellen Massey Leonard
worldwide. David Berson
Ken McKinley
and Ottawa,” page 14) and his wife, Jane Lothrop, completed
Ocean Navigator (ISSN 0886-0149) is published bi-monthly in January/February,
March/April, May/June, July/August, September/October, November/December by
Maritime Publishing, 3980 Sherman St., Suite 100, San Diego, CA 92110. Periodi-
a west-about circumnavigation of the world aboard Cormo- cals postage paid at San Diego, CA and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER:
Send address changes to Ocean Navigator, 3980 Sherman St., Suite 100, San Diego,
CA 92110.
rant, their Corbin 39 cutter. They recently completed the Copyright © 2024 by Maritime Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-
lication may be reprinted in any way without written permission from the publisher.
Great American Loop aboard their Nordic Tug 32. Their Subscription rate is $35.00 for one year (seven issues) in the United States and its
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Casey Benjamin’s Bay, Philippines, in the five minutes ahead of Father and son
Taswell 56 Day- late afternoon of April 2 her rival, taking both double-handed entry
break placed third with a total of 21 boats Line Honours and the Philippe and Cosmas
in the Rolex China and 191 competitors IRC Overall win. Grelon’ s A Plastic Ocean
Sea Race 2024 from 26 British territo- Chinese entry Wil- took first place in the
Double-Handed ries having taken part in liam Liu’s Seawolf Double-Handed Divi-
Division. the 2024 edition. claimed second IRC sion and IRC Race 2
It was a fierce battle Overall and IRC Racer Division. On arrival,
between TP52 Happy 0 second place. Skipper they commented, “This
Go and Standard Insur- YY Yan said, “We hit year was a bit difficult
Edward Herrero
guided concierge ser-
vices while experiencing
conservation traditions
Marina Bahia Golfito that are fundamental to
Marina Bahia Golfito Blancas National Parks Costa Rica and its way
on the shores of Golfo and home to some of the of life.
An aerial view of Dulce—a southern richest biodiversity in Marina Bahia Golfito
≪
Marina Golfito in fjord considered one the world. This is where is a property of Costa
Costa Rica. of the most biodiverse cruising sailors, big game Rican hospitality com-
places on Earth—offers anglers, eco-adventur- pany Enjoy Group and
incomparable yachting, ers, boaters, surfers and part of IGY’s global
sportfishing and wildlife outdoor lovers of all ages network. Expanded in
experiences that epito- and interests can recon- 2023, Marina Bahia
mize the very essence of nect with nature through Golfito now features 54
Costa Rica. an array of exhilarating slips, a new marina vil-
Located in one of adventures and activities. lage with diverse kiosk
the most vibrant desti- This lush spot on the shops—from jewelry to
nations in Costa Rica, Pacific coast of Central massage and Vespa rent-
Golfito Bay is a “gulf America offers all the als—and every amenity
within a gulf,” a pristine necessary amenities with supporting real estate
landscape framed by berths from 40 to 350 and vessel owners, char-
the lush mangroves of feet in length. The ocean ter companies, crew and
Corcovado and Piedras front hotel Amaka Ocean sportfishing enthusiasts.
designs and produces large, custom easy access. At under $40 for a prod- compass with heading costs just over
AC/DC panels for luxury yacht uct well known to many coastal and $1,000, a lot of value for a modest
builders. Large arrays come with one offshore sailors, it’s hard to imagine a investment.
or more Xantrex Gateway touch- better buy for a small boat.
screen panels, which are customized For those seeking a genuinely Engine Monitoring
to meet the demands of large luxury custom switch array on your floating Having a dependable engine
yachts. palace, take a look at the electrical monitoring system is essential to a
Yet another familiar name is Sea panels from AC/DC Marine in Car- successful voyage. Normally, your
Dog, which specializes in panels for son, Calif. The company produces engine will already have a control
small boats. Their six-gang break- a long list of customizable gauges, panel installed. If you are purchasing
er-rocker switch panels come in sev- engine panels and charging systems, a new engine, make sure you order
eral styles, from an LED-illuminated giving you a choice of either tradi- the best, highest-priced control panel
panel with power socket to an unlit tional analog dials and switches or available, not the cheap one with
version with a silicone rubber splash touch-screen digital displays. so-called “idiot lights.”
cover. While a set of AC/DC Marine The panel should have nee-
Each of Sea Dog’s toggle gauges starts at $450, a NMEA dle gauges for the tachometer, oil
and rocker panels comes with a 2000 touch-screen, multicolor dis- pressure, coolant temperature, and
push-button fuse holder on the front play, including vessel speedometer, alternator, plus an odometer-like
of the panel, allowing for quick and tachometer, depth sounder and engine hour counter. In addition to
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in fuel burn, price, and lead time. The brand new Nordhavn 51 is the
ultimate turnkey vessel for the buyer who would rather leave the
heavy lifting to the design professionals: the N51 project team has
taken the greatest care in creating the ideal long range cruiser,
right down to face cloths and utensils. The only customization you
Learn how the owners of the first Nordhavn 51 have customized their
itinerary at nordhavn.com/the-path-to-awanuinz.
hole before licking his wounds and the Galapagos and then on to Tahiti making it far safer to sail. By
gathering the energy and nerve to should be an easy ride. Just pole sailing at a faster speed, alternately
pursue the next leg of the voyage. out the genoa, set your self-steering beam-reaching between port and
Sailing within 200 nautical system, pour yourself a glass of starboard across the Atlantic,
miles of any coast requires ample inspiration and enjoy the tuna Saltaire arrived safe and sound
local knowledge and sailing on a fishing and golden sunsets. after 25 days of sailing. Columbus
small vessel brings this to bear with A winter crossing of the Atlantic, had the good sense to “discover”
greater immediacy. On offshore however, is quite another matter. America in only 21 days. But
voyages, though, there actually are Sailing guru Jimmy Cornell, who then, he left the Canaries in early
advantages to being on a smaller organizes the Atlantic Rally for December.
boat. Cruisers (ARC), says in his book, Though I was fortunate not to
World Cruising Routes, “You can face the worst, a stronger wind with
Downwind sailing cross the Atlantic any time of the higher following seas could have
Running before the wind, year, except January.” So, naturally, spelled disaster. If I were to do this
particularly on long Pacific passages, yours truly crossed in January. again, I would take along either a
is quite literally, “a breeze.” As long As I angled my bateau petit Galerider or a Jordan Series drogue
as you control how much sail you onto latitude 15 degrees north to keep the boat sailing downwind
hoist, the voyage from Panama to and headed out west toward the without the fear of capsize.
Caribbean, a winter gale kicked up, Larger vessels, 40 or more feet
throwing steep seas — some over LOA, are exposed to a major
Wind 20 feet high — against Saltaire’s disadvantage on a downwind sail.
Steering stern for two weeks. When I saw Their greater waterline length yields
30°
how closely she was sliding toward greater speed, exposing them to the
the backsides of waves, I started possibility of pitchpoling, which is
turning the boat roughly 30 degrees the capsizing of a boat stern over
off the rhumb line, gybing back bow — the worst cases of which
and forth every 24 hours. can result in the sinking of the
By sailing a broad reach, vessel.
zigzagging my way across the
Atlantic to Martinique, Saltaire Heaving-to
enjoyed two advantages: she Bashing to weather on a small
created a longer, flatter swell and, boat in huge seas can be extremely
by heeling to one side, produced difficult, if not totally untenable.
a longer waterline, which added Generally speaking, areas prone to
to her speed and offset the greater such conditions are well known to
sailing distance. If you split a sailors, so we plan our voyages to
WIND
DIRECTION watermelon lengthwise and cut out avoid beating to windward in those
a piece crosswise, you get a deep corners of the world. Imagine cross-
“U” shape. If you cut a diagonal ing from Martinique to the Canar-
piece, it will have the same height ies along latitude 15° N, any time
Broad reaching back and forth every 24 but with a much longer curve. of year — virtually impossible.
hours can help prevent capsize when On the water, the longer curve But sailing headlong into
running in steep seas. effectively flattens the waves, oncoming seas can occur, such
WWW.WEEMS-PLATH.COM
“in the groove” in storm conditions pendulum you should be sailing circumnavigation, but thankfully
is to install a servo-pendulum on a broad reach, not a run, when it never saw service. Theoretically I
self-steering system on your boat’s surfing down steep seas. The servo could have used it in that storm in
transom. There are numerous other system keeps your boat on track, the northern Red Sea, but with all
dependable types of self-steering but obviously it cannot override the the ship traffic, I needed the option
systems available, but a servo- vessel’s innate limitations, which of steering away quickly from cargo
pendulum system — such as one include exposure to pitchpole when ships to avoid getting run over. On
of the models offered by Aries, running before the wind. open water in inclement conditions,
Fleming, Monitor or Sailomat — where the sea state rules out
provides a high degree of stability Drogues heaving-to or lying-to, a drogue can
when surfing down high seas in When the wind and seas build prevent capsizing or pitchpoling,
storm conditions. to a level well beyond the navigable allowing you to maintain headway.
To review, a servo-pendulum range, but you still want to make You can choose from a number
system functions by employing a headway downwind, consider of drogue designs available on the
tilting wind vane to transmit changes deploying a drogue off the stern market, given your preferences and
in wind direction to a submerged to keep the boat making headway, the length and displacement of
servo blade via a push rod and a pair however slowly. Drogues come your vessel. Galerider offers several
of bevel gears. As the boat veers off in many interesting designs, the sizes of web cones, which allow
course, the vane tilts, slightly turning simplest of which is two or three water to disperse through the entire
the servo blade, which pulls the tiller car tires bound together with chain length of the drogue. Fiorentino of
or wheel steering until the boat is and tethered off the stern with Newport Beach, Calif., offers an
back on course. As the velocity of three-strand nylon anchor line. array of offshore safety equipment,
both wind and vessel increase, the Storing a stack of tires aboard your including a heavy canvas drogue
servo system operates faster and with yacht may be an imposition, but at design, which is paired with a
greater force. least you will have that last-ditch beefy coupling system designed
The servo-pendulum’s capability option. Check out YouTube to see to weather the worst of storm
of increasing force and precision some of the zany sea anchors some conditions.
with greater wind speed makes die-hard sailors are using out there If there is one major concern
this device particularly effective in but bear in mind there are more regarding drogues, it is the
keeping the vessel on track when workable solutions available. danger in deploying such a device
sliding down mountainous seas. At The more common type of manually while sailing at high
the moment the vessel turns ever drogue takes the form of a heavy speeds in stormy waters. It is too
so slightly to one side, the servo canvas or web funnel, which can easy to lose a finger or even a hand
blade immediately signals the helm be folded and stored easily in a while paying out line and then
to turn in the opposite direction, small hold belowdecks. The drogue securing it to a deck cleat. Even
keeping your vessel surfing “on is weighted down with an anchor when controlling the towline with
rails.” It is rather entertaining, or some other heavy weight, along a deck winch, the stress can be
though sometimes scary, to look up with a short length of chain, and overpowering. It is best to practice
at the wave behind you and witness then tossed over the stern where it this procedure in settled conditions
the perfec https://outlook.office. slows the vessel down to navigable before attempting this in a full gale.
com/mail/ t trough of foam you speed, preventing pitchpoling or
have left starting from the top of broaching and capsizing. Sea anchors
the hill — quite exhilarating! Saltaire carried a canvas A safer and easier way to ride out
Again, even with the servo- drogue during her five-year sustained gale conditions is with
www.oceannavigator.com
westerly came up, pegging North to Sri Lanka steady southwest winds punc-
Saltaire on a close reach on Most cruisers have enough tuated by the odd squall.
the starboard tack, 60 degrees sense to take a breather at As the miles to the equator
off the rhumb line. Oh well, I Cocos Keeling before pro- dwindled, steady sailing even-
figured, probably just a diur- ceeding on to Galle. I, on the tually weakened to ever-longer
nal coastal breeze. other hand, decided to take calms. Squalls began to appear
After two days of tacking The voyage the whole passage in one gulp. out of nowhere, first in the
in the light westerly, it was With Saltaire’s relatively flat early evening, and then at all
from Darwin
obvious this was a weather bilges, I’d had my fill of getting hours of the day until there
anomaly. The westerly fresh- in northern knocked around by confused was no way to adapt to a daily
ened after a couple of days, Australia to seas and wanted to avoid what weather pattern. At the peak of
and Saltaire was sailing at the Gulf of certainly would be harsher a squall, the wind would some-
a steady 5 knots. However, conditions farther south. times reach 40 knots, starting
the Timor Sea threw another Aden by way Pleasant downwind sailing from north-northwest and
wrench into my progress: a of Sri Lanka
counter-clockwise current set- and India’s
ting the boat west on the port
Malabar
tack—and back east on the
starboard tack! For a whole Coast turned
day, I seriously considered out to be a Yemen
Aden Socotra
India
E Q U ATO R
OCEAN
500 miles, I finally slipped 30 Saltaire. Route of Saltaire
Darwin
Gales and
Ashmore reefs and caught the AUSTRALIA
Protect your
boat from
the ravages
of storms.
W
hen I was seven, stand out in an open field in a But what if you are caught
during a family thunderstorm.” “Don’t be the on the open sea? Nothing else
vacation in Maine, tallest object when lightning is around to draw that dangerous
Above, Looking we got caught out in a sum- around.” “Every year, people bolt? At moderate boat speed,
over marina mer thunderstorm. We were get struck on golf courses.” it’s hard to move away from a
in Sabah, parked beside a pond, and I Similar advice is given to storm, and experts say you can’t
Malaysian remember my father telling my boaters: “Don’t be the tallest prevent a lightning strike if you
Borneo, at a siblings and me not to worry thing around.” The greatest are in its vicinity; you can only
thunderstorm as long as we stayed inside our concentration of boats is near protect yourself from damage.
building over car. That’s my first memory of land, where most thunder- It’s not that lightning seeks out
the South a thunderstorm; in the time storms happen. With a sailboat a sailboat mast or a powerboat;
China Sea. since, there have been many in a marina or at anchor, it it takes the shortest route from
more. In a year, the continental usually means cozying up to the bottom of a thundercloud
U.S. sees an average of 25 mil- a boat with a taller mast so to the ground underneath,
lion lightning strikes. “Don’t they’ll get hit first. and anything that stands up
34 www.oceannavigator.com
shortens the distance. shape, which we recognize thunderstorm found us. It was
Thunder and lightning are as signaling a thunderstorm. a dark night and we didn’t get
the audible and visible effects At the base of the cloud, the any warning until it was on
of cloud activity in the atmo- charge accumulates until it has top of us and a bolt of light-
sphere. Clouds are formed enough strength to jump to ning crashed out of the sky di-
from water. The simplest cloud the closest object, which can rectly above our mast, lighting
forms when warm moist air also carry a charge. If you have everything in an eerie fashion.
rises from the planet (either heard that lightning also goes But either it didn’t hit us, or it
earth or water) as the surface from the ground
heats up and reaches a height up, this is techni-
where the atmosphere is cool cally true because
enough to cause it to condense when the “step
into water droplets. Morning is leader” from the
a good time for this to happen, cloud approach-
after the sun rises. If conditions es the ground,
are right and the cloud keeps streamers of op-
building, eventually the water posite charge flow
may become heavy enough to up, and when one
fall back out of the cloud as or more of them
rain. If there’s no underlying meet the leader,
condition causing the cloud the connection is
buildup, after it loses enough complete and the
moisture, the cloud can dissi- lightning channel
pate, as we see in its simplest discharges. did and was harmless because
form in sun showers. But if the Open ocean thunderstorms we didn’t suffer damage.
atmosphere is unstable and the are most likely to occur in Proximity to land greatly Leading edge of
buildup continues, the top of the tropics where the water is increases the chances of a boat cold front over
the cloud may grow, reaching warm, and as a cruising sailor, being struck by lightning. Wickford, RI, on
a height where the air is cold I have been around numer- Common boater’s wisdom Narragansett
enough to change the state of ous thunderstorms. While suggests stowing sensitive Bay.
the water droplets. land thunderstorms are most electronic equipment in a
Between -15 and -25 common in the afternoon, out metal oven, a type of faraday
degrees Celsius, supercooled to sea they generally happen cage that blocks out harmful
droplets, ice crystals and soft at night, when the air cools electromagnetic radiation,
hail can form. Movement of but the water stays constant. and clipping chain to the side
these particles within the cloud One of my most memorable stays. Stowing electronics in
causes them to rub against each thunderstorms came after Tom the oven is based on the same
other and become electrically and I dropped anchor off an principle as safety in a car,
charged. If the charge con- unnamed reef in the south end and the chain improves the
tinues to build up, a thunder of Tuvalu to decide whether to chances that lightning striking
cloud forms, and the cloud continue north into that island the top of the mast will take a
rises high enough to hit the country for cyclone season. direct route to the water, not
stratosphere where it can’t rise Eventually, we decided not through the boat’s interior
any higher and starts to spread to, and it was after we turned where it can strike sensitive
out, forming the classic anvil south for Fiji that hours later, a electric and electronic equip-
ment. Boats on land are by no saw the lightning arc to the sound of thunder about five
means protected from strikes, powerful, vertical Maxwell seconds to travel a mile, you
and I have on several occa- windlass mounted on the bow. can calculate the distance be-
sions seen holes blown in hulls When we returned, we found tween you and the lightning.”
struck while sitting in yards. the electric motor destroyed. It Counting the seconds between
After we sold our Peterson 44 was a pain to replace, as it was flash and thunder and dividing
Oddly Enough in Borneo, she in the anchor locker, a tight by five gives the distance in
space which I fit miles from you to the light-
into better than ning.
Tom. Thunder is a sound wave
The thunder- created by rapid expansion
storm that burnt from the heat of a lightning
out our windlass bolt and the quick contraction
came during of cooling air behind it. Air
Darwin’s wet in the bolt may reach 50,000
season, when degrees Fahrenheit, five times
we returned hotter than the surface of the
to the U.S. to sun, and the sound wave can
work and escape be heard up to 10 miles from a
the rain that lightning strike. Sometimes we
inundated the heard thunder in our Kim-
was hit by lightning that blew region from November until berley anchorages, sometimes
out a hole. May and then shut off like not, but when we did, we were
Squally When we cruised the South a tap. During the dry season within striking distance of a
weather in the Pacific, we had relatively few that followed, we cruised the storm and sitting ducks as we
Kimberley, NW electronic devices on board wilds of the Kimberley. At the couldn’t move out at night. But
Australia. that could be damaged by end of the season during the the dry storms never came any
lightning strikes. All our GPS northern buildup, we expe- closer.
units were portable, and we did rienced dry thunderstorms, So what can a boater do?
indeed try to get them into the which still need moisture Solutions vary depending on
oven when a thunderstorm was to form clouds, but the rain location. If you keep your boat
nearby. Our fixed mount VHF falling out of them evaporates in a marina, you can’t move
and SSB radios were vulnera- before reaching the ground. to a location where your mast
ble, but we carried a handheld At night in anchorages on our is lower than other structures
VHF. I had made the switch way back to Darwin, we could around it, but you can add
to digital charts for harbors see the storms flickering just surge protection to your shore
but used a laptop computer inland from us. power; Marinco makes shore
for viewing them. It wasn’t Which brings up the issue power pigtail adapters.
connected to any other system of distance, and the old saw Boaters on the water either
on the boat, and we had paper about counting the time be- at anchor or underway have
charts for everywhere we went. tween a bolt of lightning and a different set of issues. Given
Lightning struck Oddly Enough clap of thunder. According to that you have to assume if
in a marina in Darwin, Austra- the National Weather Ser- there is a thunderstorm nearby
lia, while we were back in the vice, “Since you see lightning and close enough overhead,
States. Neighboring boaters immediately and it takes the you will get hit, the first and
They remain an open circuit as long Florida of dense, cold air under warm air,
as the supply voltage feeding the Florida is home to lots of boats; lifting it quite abruptly. Out on the
equipment is in the normal range. it also has hot, humid weather and water, boaters who encounter cold
However, “if a lightning strike causes thunderstorms, the frequency of fronts may experience thunderstorms
a momentary voltage spike and puts, which lends it the distinction of even outside the warmer weather
say 1,000 volts on a 120 volt device, being the lightning capital of the US. regions if the air is moist and unsta-
the TVSS will ‘clamp’ or short circuit While hot, humid summer weather ble enough. Cold fronts can lead to
880 volts and convert it to heat.” is already a recipe for storms, Flor- squall lines of multiple storm cells,
The excessive heat would most likely ida’s geography, a peninsula jutting which extend laterally for hundreds
damage the TVSS, but better to out into warm water, adds to the of miles and persist for hours. On
destroy a $250 surge arrestor than an mix. The land mass heats up much Oddly Enough, we encountered a
Inmarsat broadband terminal that squall line north of the Bahamas
costs thousands of dollars. Bad Wolf, that was deep and wide enough to
a veteran-owned American compa- force us to turn back and wait to
ny, makes TVSS devices. LSP and head north to the U.S. coast until it
Transtector are both Chinese compa- passed.
nies and also make the devices. Like sharks, lightning and
thunder can foster a knee-jerk fear
ITCZ Thunderstorms in humans. Looking back at my
Thunderstorms are not common cruising logs, my writing when thun-
in vast stretches of the oceans, but derstorms were in the area suggests
they do occur frequently in regions foreboding and conveys relief when
popular with coastal and offshore the storms pass. The storm on the
sailors. Sailors in the Caribbean Sea faster than the ocean during the night we left the reef at the edge
and the Pacific and Indian Oceans day, setting up a cycle where cooler, of Tuvalu was followed by days of
encounter the Intertropical Conver- denser air from the ocean pushes squalls with wind and and hard slog-
gence Zone, or ITCZ, near the equa- inland under the less dense, warm ging into high seas. It’s the constant
tor where trade winds of the North- air, which flows out to sea over it. repetition of thunder and lightning
ern and Southern hemispheres come The air movement of the denser air that most sets the scene.
together. It’s a remarkable place, with at the surface is a sea breeze, and on a “Continuous growl of thunder.
towering clouds that reach far higher typical summer day, it moves inland Can’t see lightning. Heading NW to
than anything in temperate zones. from the ocean, which surrounds get away.”
The intense sun and warm water Florida on three sides, colliding in “Went through patch of cells w/
of the equator heat the air, raising its the middle of the state in mid-after- thunder but no visible (here I drew a
humidity and making it buoyant. noon, leading to the creation of often lightning bolt).”
The convergence of winds and air intense thunderstorms. “T-storms all around. Sat foto
masses increases instability and helps shows nothing. Wouldn’t know
the buoyant air rise. The height of Thunderstorms and cold fronts which way we could go.”
the troposphere over the equator can The sea breeze cycle in Florida “Lightning to south, and dark
be 11 to 12 miles, which accounts offers an example of a front, which mass behind.”
for the cloud towers. As the air rises, is defined as a boundary between “Yuck! T-storms.”
it expands and cools, releasing the air masses of different temperatures “Spent last three hours dodging
accumulated moisture in an almost and air densities. Cold fronts are also t-storms.”
perpetual series of thunderstorms. indicators of changes in weather. “For a while we just didn’t know
They move fast and push a tongue where to go.” n
+1 (206) 209-1920
www.WorthAvenueYachts.com
PALM BEACH | MONACO | FORT LAUDERDALE | SEATTLE | SAN DIEGO | NEWPORT | GENEVA
WEATHER
Understanding
waves is key to
navigation.
A
few years ago, Ocean every three hours or so for is occurring, or is expected to
Voyager featured an deep-water ocean waves. occur, within the fetch area
article about how winds This provides our first that is generating the waves,
generate ocean waves. Recall possibility of identifying where or if the waves have propa-
Even when
that ocean waves in any given and when big waves can occur, gated out of their generation
ocean surf
area and at any given time exist and this is simply to look for area and are no longer being
seems predict-
as a spectrum, meaning there areas of high SWH on wind/ impacted by the local winds.
ably calm, a
are waves with many differ- wave charts and double the While within the fetch area,
freak wave can
ent characteristics present. To analyzed or forecast SWH in the waves will still be growing
mean the loss
quantify the wave spectrum, a given area. This provides the until a “fully developed sea” has
of vessel and
a parameter called “significant master of a vessel with some been reached, providing there
crew.
wave height” (SWH) is used, knowledge of areas to avoid is sufficient time. When the
and all sea state analyses and if the vessel is particularly Beaufort wind force and fetch
forecasts make use of this susceptible to occasional larger length are known, these can
parameter. By definition, there waves. With wave forecasts of be used with tables available in
will always be some waves up to 120 hours available from navigation references, such as
higher than SWH. It is gener- NOAA’s Ocean Prediction Bowditch, which will provide
ally accepted that the highest Center, areas of high SWH can the SWH and period of a fully
waves seen within a wave spec- be identified, and decisions can developed sea along with the
trum will be about twice the be made about routing based duration that is required for
SWH, and these larger waves on the areas of higher SWH. those parameters to be reached.
will show up approximately An important delineation Once SWH has grown to a
once every 1,000 waves under needs to be made regarding fully developed sea, waves will
normal circumstances. This SWH, and that is to determine not grow any larger, provided
works out to be once about whether an area of large SWH the fetch, length and wind
40 www.oceannavigator.com
force do not change. The attainment when swell sets pass over seamounts the scale of these wind/wave charts.
of a fully developed sea requires or other shallow areas like banks. However, they were quite large and
the fetch area to persist in the same If the waves get steep enough, they in fact caused significant damage
location for the duration given in break. along the coast, particularly where
the reference table. Within a fetch Large waves that impacted the wave energy was able to get into
area that features strong winds, the California coast in December 2023 smaller bays and harbors.
sea state is likely to be dominated by can be explained by this phenome- Other situations where waves
waves generated by the wind in the non. Prominent on a surface analysis greater than SWH are more likely to
fetch area, and in most cases the seas chart is a hurricane force low, and occur include areas where more than
will be fairly regular. there is a large fetch area to its south, one swell set is present. When swells
Once waves propagate out of a between about 33N and 40N from from two different fetch areas arrive
fetch area, they will no longer be about 145W west to about 155W. in the same region, the waves will
affected by the local wind and are The corresponding wind/wave anal- interfere with one another, and this
termed “swells.” They will no longer ysis indicates a maximum SWH of can lead to constructive (or addi-
grow, and in fact they will begin to 38 feet in this fetch area. SWH along tive) interference between the wave
subside slowly. However, the periods most of the central California coast sets, leading to a few larger waves,
of the waves will remain constant as at this time is less than 12 feet. By perhaps even greater than twice the
they move through the water, and in 1200 UTC 28 Dec 2023, when the SWH of either swell set. This can
the case of a fetch area with strong hurricane force low became weaker occur when swells from two distant
winds, the waves will remain quite and moved northeast to the eastern storms propagate into the same re-
prominent and will keep moving Gulf of Alaska, another very strong gion. It also occurs within one storm
until they run into shallow water or low has moved into the region with system, particularly around frontal
land. The propagation speed of the its center near 38N/146W. boundaries. Typically, abrupt wind
swell is directly related to the period Six hours later, the SWH was shifts occur around fronts, and this
as long as the waves remain in deep 26 feet along the central California means fetch areas can be adjacent to
water. coast. These waves were generated one another on either side of a front,
When swells move into water less from the fetch area and propagated and the waves from one fetch area
than one half of the wavelength in east to the coast. There were very can propagate out of one fetch and
depth, the character of waves will few isobars in the California coastal directly into another, again leading
begin to change as they “feel the waters at this time, suggesting the to the possibility of waves much
bottom.” This process begins as the winds were relatively light in this area greater than the SWH of either
waves are slowed by friction with the despite the big waves. The 24-hour fetch. Constructive interference can
bottom, but the wave periods will wave period forecast valid at 1200 also occur when a faster moving
remain the same. This means the UTC 28 Dec 2023 clearly showed swell set overtakes slower swells, even
wave lengths become shorter to keep the swells moving toward the west when they are moving in the same
the time between successive crests the coast of the U.S. with very long direction.
same as the waves slow down, and periods (17-19 seconds). This means Another situation where waves
the waves become steeper, leading to these waves were moving fast (more greater than SWH are more likely to
greater SWH. Thus we have iden- than 50 knots) and had very long occur is an areas where wind and/or
tified another situation where big wave lengths (more than 1,500 feet). waves are opposing relatively strong
waves can occur, and that is when a The continental shelf is not very ocean currents. This will result in
large swell set from a distant storm wide along the west coast of North the shortening and steepening of
moves into shallow waters, generally America, so the growth of these the waves. In currents like the Gulf
over a continental shelf or in coastal waves as they move into shallow Stream in the Atlantic and the Agul-
waters. A similar effect can occur water will not be shown very well on has Current east of South Africa, it is
generally accepted wave heights can An online search will yield some As these waves encountered the shal-
be up to 50 percent greater than ex- incredible video of this occurrence. lower water surrounding the atoll, they
pected. When doing this calculation, Examining the charts for this event would have become steeper, though
it is important to remember in areas helps us see what contributed to this they also likely would have broken. It
without strong currents, the extreme event. is also worth noting the winds were
wave is generally twice the SWH, so A surface analysis chart valid at moderately strong from the northeast.
within strong currents, the largest 0000 UTC 20 Jan 2024 for the This would have generated another
waves can be 50 percent greater than tropical Pacific shows a large, strong wave set from that direction, and given
twice the SWH. low-pressure system well to the that the larger swells generated by the
In April 2005, a cruise ship was northeast of the atoll. Its center was big storm a couple of days earlier were
sailing in the Gulf Stream off the more than 1,500 miles away at the coming from the north, these two wave
Carolina coast in an area where time of this chart. This system had sets likely interfered with one another,
SWH was forecast to be 7.5 meters. been present for a couple of days leading to additive effects and the pos-
Twice the SWH would have been leading up to the time of this chart sibility of some very large waves.
15 meters, and another 50 percent and had been tracking generally To summarize, when assessing the
more would have been 22.5 meters, east through the western Pacific. Its possibility for very big waves, consider
or nearly 74 feet. This cruise ship large circulation contained several the following:
encountered a wave of about 70 fetch areas, which generated large 1. S WH present or forecast?
feet in this area, causing significant waves that propagated away from Remember that waves of up to twice
damage to the ship and injuries to the fetch areas. On the west side of SWH will occur at times within the
the passengers. Looking at the chart this system, winds would have been wave spectrum.
and seeing expected SWH of 7.5 coming generally from the north, 2. A re larger swells propagating into
meters (close to 25 feet) might not so the waves generated would have shallower water? This will lead to
suggest a wave greater than 70 feet been moving south. This can be seen higher and steeper waves as the
could occur. But by recalling waves clearly by examining the wave peri- waves slow down.
up to twice the SWH can occur, we od forecast chart valid at the same 3. Is there more than one swell set
see a wave could be up to 50 percent time as the surface analysis. While present? Wave period forecast charts
greater, a “freak wave.” this chart does not extend as far show only the dominant wave
A “freak wave,” or “rogue wave,” south as the Kwajalein Atoll, there is period, which represents the swell
is often heard when large ocean a large area of very long period swells set with the most energy. Look for
waves are discussed, and these shown on the chart moving south other upwind fetch areas in different
waves are defined in the Glossary to the west of the International directions or strong winds that will
of Meteorology, published by the Dateline, heading in the direction of build waves in the local area.
American Meteorological Society, as Kwajalein. 4. Is the area of interest near a strong
an “unexpectedly occurring wave of A wind/wave analysis chart valid ocean current? Expect up to 50
great height (and also steepness).” at 1200 UTC 20 Jan 2024, 12 percent greater wave heights than
A recent report of a rogue wave hours after the surface analysis chart, would normally be found. Pay
occurred at a U.S. military base on shows SWH of around 15 feet in attention to locally strong tidal
Kwajalein Atoll, Marshall Islands, in the vicinity of Kwajalein. However, currents for the same reason. Even
the tropical latitudes of the western the waves that impacted the base though these currents are of short
Pacific Ocean. There were several were likely larger than this. There duration, they can still enhance
very large waves that swept over the were likely several contributing wave activity.
low-lying island in January 2024 factors. First, the overall SWH field As always, being vigilant about all
and led to a great deal of damage to was large, and waves of up to twice weather and ocean conditions will
buildings and other infrastructure. the SWH could have been present. make voyaging safer. n
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BAC K STAY. I N K
sealing ship, he sailed past already made a fortune in the The Hs of his observation
Cape Horn, searching for China trade. is 12° 18.8’.
more hunting grounds. He In 1843, Palmer took Find the LHA.
David Berson was the first American to sight command of Paul Jones for Find Ho.
takes a sun the Antarctic peninsula, and the Low brothers, sailing Find the intercept.
sight on the now the Palmer Archipelago is from Boston to Hong Kong, Plot and find EP. n
wing deck of named after him. arriving in a very respectable
Relentless. By the 1830s, Palmer was 111 days. On this passage,
Answers
running a schooner, hauling the ship carried the first cargo W 62° 12’.
cotton bales between New of ice to China. 4. D. EP is S 54° 45’ by
Orleans and New York. These The passage home was toward.
schooners were designed with very slow, and Captain Nat, 3. Intercept is 14.7 nm
long, flat bottoms, making it frustrated, carved a block of 2. Ho is 12° 26.7’.
easier to cross the sandbar at wood into what he thought 1. LHA is 32°.
the mouth of the Mississippi would be a much more