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diversified variety of its wooded or rocky slopes, far surpasses any
other portion of the river we had as yet seen. The volume, too, of the
stream is here very considerable, its breadth being nearly 350 yards;
whilst sailing majestically on its surface we descry numerous black
swans in close and amicable contiguity with flocks of unsightly
pelicans. Continuing to pass through a country of this kind, we soon
leave behind us the granite formation, with the huge “boulders” of
rock which mark its character; and after meeting an island, in mid-
stream, again enter upon an Arcadian country, which, undulating in
small rounded hills, dotted with trees of moderate height, bears some
resemblance to the shores of Greece. Strange to say, however, as the
land appears good, even if occasionally rocky, there is scarcely a
habitation to be seen; though here, one would say, is quite the scene
to realize the poet’s dream, the
Here then, I leave the Murray! and I do so in the firm belief that,
whether it is to become in the future—as it has been, perhaps
prophetically, designated—the “Australian Nile;” or whether it is to be
the connecting link and general highway of the Australian capitals,
existing and to be; this river is of incalculable advantage to the whole
of Australasia, and its steam navigation, thus far successfully
accomplished, an event worthy of record and narration by far abler
pens than mine.
About Glen Osmond, for a distance of some miles, the views are
splendid, comprising the whole of the Adelaide plains, and a vast and
magnificent sea-view extending completely across the Gulf of St.
Vincent. The town itself lies spread out below the hills as upon a
map; but perhaps from the want of spires or lofty buildings, the City
of Adelaide is not, from a distance, very imposing in appearance.
Descending Glen Osmond, three or four miles of hard, if not good,
road, brings the traveller to the town, which—rather tired, I confess—
I reached about half-past four p.m.; my horse being equally knocked
up with myself, though the distance from Strathalbyn is not more
than thirty-eight miles.
Sir Henry Young left the steamer the same evening (Friday, October
14), at the Goolwa, after a smooth passage across the Lake, and took
up his quarters for the night at Port Elliot. The next day, accompanied
by Mr. Grainger, His Excellency rode into Adelaide, a distance of about
fifty-eight miles.
I was informed, by Mr. Maiden, the proprietor of the punt and inn,
bearing his name, that some short distance above his place, at the
junction of the Edwards and Wakool—or rather where these rivers
leave the Murray—that, at flood time, the channel of the river is
lost among large reedy lakes, and that its course could not be
found without native assistance—that the country is quite destitute
of trees for a considerable distance. After leaving this part, the
timber becomes plenty again, and continues so; the banks keep
high, and continue to improve in quality; the river becoming more
sinuous still, and the current much stronger. I do not think I have
anything more of importance to mention, but should anything
strike you, on which I could render you any information, I shall be
most happy to do so.
40
APPENDIX.
Owners. Sheep.
Mr. Pyke 20,000
Westmeath 40,000
Messrs. Sylvester & Smith 15,000
Mr. Lintott 6,000
Grierson 3,000
Messrs. Phelps & Connolly 12,000
Mr. Beveridge 10,000
Hamilton 5,000
McCallum 13,000
Grant 6,000
Ross 7,000
Morey 7,000
Gibbs 5,000
McPherson 6,000
Keane 16,000
McGrath 10,000
Jamieson 10,000
Messrs. Crozier & Rutherford 13,000
Mr. Paterson 7,000
Bagot 5,000
Chambers 6,000
Mr. Walker 6,000
Coomar 5,000
Hart 6,000
Walsh 6,000
Haywood 3,000
Scoott 4,000
Fletcher 12,000
Scott 7,000
McLennan 7,000
McLean 6,000
McFarlane 4,000
Cameron 4,000
THE LACHLAN.
Mr. Peters 10,000
Messrs. Phelps & Co 20,000
Mr. Wentworth 50,000
Laing 15,000
Firebrace 6,000
Messrs. Firebrace and Brown 10,000
Mr. Nyne 40,000
Total number of sheep 443,000
41
This estimate extends no further than Swan Hill, about 280,000
1,300 miles from the sea. To give a correct idea of the
probable amount of wool to be derived from Swan Hill
and north of the Murray, onwards, is not easy, but
including the runs to Albury and Gundegai, and from
thence again to near the junction of the Lachlan, it may
be estimated at
Again, on the north bank of the Murrumbidgee there 90,000
may be set down twenty stations, depasturing each
4,500 sheep, or
In Victoria, and on the south side of the Murray, from 220,000
Swan Hill to Albury, not embracing the stations at the
Campaspe, Goulburn, or Ovens, excepting those at their
respective junctions
Total 590,000 [31]
In this calculation, out of 124 stations, seventy only have been put
down as cattle stations, or unlikely to send their wool to Adelaide.
The stations producing this wool are situated on the Rivers Loddon,
Avoca, Avon, Richardson, and the Wimmeira country, towards Lake
Hindmarsh; and a good road, with a little trouble, might be made
available to Lake Lalbert, which is distant only twenty-five miles from
Swan Hill.
42
SUPPLEMENT.
Writing from Government House, June 29, 1852, Sir Henry Young
observes:—
“An inspection of the map of New Holland will show that the
streams which rise from the eastern side of this mountain ridge
(aback of Sydney) have but comparatively a short course to the
sea; moreover, from this side of the ridge the descent to the sea is
steep and difficult. The ports north of Sydney are Moreton Bay, the
Clarence River, and Port Macquarrie; south of Sydney, Bateman’s
Bay, Twofold Bay, Port Phillip, and Portland Bay. Whilst, therefore,
the remote interior, on the opposite or western side of this
mountain ridge, can have no other exit to the sea, eastward than
the above-mentioned ports, accessible only by a long, expensive,
and difficult land-carriage, it is obvious that the export of wool
could not, beyond certain limits of distance, be continued with
profit, because of the difficulty and cost of transport to its places of
shipment: and this limit to the wool-producing region becomes
practically the terminus of the squatter’s enterprise—the boundary
of the location of Europeans—the end of the war on the
wilderness; because the beginning of a solitude untenanted by
civilised man. But, when we again revert to the map, and view the
western side of this mountain ridge, it is at once perceived that
there is a remedy for this arrest of the progress of settlement. The
waters of the Darling River, after a long circuitous course, unite
themselves with the River Murray, and, reinforced with other
tributaries, maintain continuous course to the Southern Ocean,
near Port Elliot. The great trade, then, which is likely to result from
the steam navigation of the River Murray, comprises all that
present and future pastoral produce on the western side of the
mountain ridge, aback of Sydney, which it will be difficult and
costly to send for shipment to the enumerated ports on the coast
line of New South Wales and Port Phillip.”
“With respect to Port Elliot, the criticisms which have been passed,
in doubt of its capaciousness and safety, are such only as new and
untried ports frequently receive until they become better known.
Until this experience shall have been gained, it is satisfactory 44
to know that Captain Lipson, R.N., the Naval Officer of the
Province, after frequent visits to it, and enquiries respecting its
character, reports two vessels of from 500 to 1,000 tons may lie at
the existing moorings, which are in six and four fathoms of water
respectively, sufficiently sheltered by the breakwater to be
considered in a safe anchorage; that, after the port is better
known, five or six large ships may anchor there; and that it would
probably prove safe to extend the anchorage, for large ships, much
farther out. A remarkable verification of this last-expressed opinion
has recently been furnished to Captain Lipson in the case of the
Ameer, a vessel of 400 tons, which in a gale of wind, blowing in on
the shore, came to anchor outside the moorings, and beyond the
shelter of the breakwater, where she remained safely, although
greatly underhanded, both as to the number and the efficiency of
the crew. Ever since the Colony has been founded, coasters have
been in the habit of going in and out of Port Elliot, at all seasons of
the year, whenever freights have offered, and no accident has ever
happened, or has any vessel ever been driven on shore, although
furnished, as they generally are, with very inferior ground tackle.
The holding ground, then, being thus proved to be so good, even
outside of the moorings, it is only necessary to place additional
moorings beyond the site of the present ones, whenever the
exigencies of commerce may require this accommodation. The
trade of Port Elliot will, however, probably for a long while, in
connection with the River Murray, not require more tonnage than
can, at any one time, at present safely find anchorage there. Of the
readiness with which mails may be landed at Port Elliot, as
compared with mails to be landed (especially in winter time) in Gulf
St. Vincent, and of the great use, to vessels bound to Port Elliot, of
the Sturt Light, on Cape Willoughby, Kangaroo Island, it is only
necessary that I should refer you to Captain Lipson’s report,
published in the Government Gazette of the 10th February last:”—
“Port Elliot lies in lat. 35° 32′ 45″ south, and long. 138° 43′ 15″
east, and is about six miles from Rosetta Head. The new lighthouse
on Cape Willoughby, Kangaroo Island, is situated in lat. 35° 45
49′ 20″ south, long. 138° 43′ 15″ east; and, with respect to
it, Port Elliot bears north 55 east, twenty-nine miles. I do not
consider it necessary to give any particular sailing directions for
making this port, as there is nothing remarkable with regard to
headlands, &c., to point out to the attention of mariners. As a port
of refuge from south to north-west, which are our usual winter
winds, I have never met a person who did not acknowledge the
safety and ease of riding under the island. In proof of this, ever
since the Colony has been founded, our coasters have been in the
habit of going in and out at all seasons of the year, whenever
freights have offered, and no accident has ever happened, or has
any vessel ever been driven on shore, although furnished, as they
generally are, with very inferior ground tackle.”
“It must be well known to those who are in the habit of trading
between Adelaide and the different ports along the coast, that,
now there is a good light on Cape Willoughby, with the west and
northwest gales which blow so frequently during the winter season,
they may go into Port Elliot, and oftentimes back again, either to
Van Diemen’s Land or Port Phillip, in less time than they could beat
through Backstairs Passage; besides the difficulty of returning
down the Gulf against the south-west gales. I have no hesitation in
saying, that two mails may easily be delivered at Port Elliot, for one
at Port Adelaide, during the winter months, &c.
“I have, &c.,
“THOS. LIPSON,
“Naval Officer and Harbour Master.
H. E. F. YOUNG, Lieutenant-Governor.
47
H. E. F. YOUNG.
PROCLAMATION
(L S)
H. E. F. Young.
Given under my hand and the public seal of the said Province, at
Adelaide, this ninth day of November, in the year of our Lord
one thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, and in the
seventeenth year of Her Majesty’s reign.
By command,
B. T. FINNISS, Colonial Secretary.
God save the Queen!
Access from the back lands to the water, and necessary roads for the
convenience of the public, will be reserved in the usual manner.
[1]
This poor man was unfortunately drowned, September 30th.
[2]
According to Balbi, the course of the Murray is nearly 3,000 miles.
[3]
This calculation can only be approximate.
[4]
Expeditions into the Interior of Australia: 2 vols.
[5]
The return of supplies taken each trip up the river, it is calculated,
will be equivalent to about one-half the value of the cargo brought
down; the orders for goods amounting already to £3,000 and
upwards.
[6]
The dimensions of the Lady Augusta (so called in honour of Lady
Young), are as follows:—Extreme length on deck, 105ft.; extreme
length of keel, 98ft. 6in.; depth of hold, 5ft 6in.; breadth of beam,
12ft.; on the cross guards, 21ft. She is built altogether upon the
American principle and model, and cost about £5,000. Her
engines, furnished from Sydney, are of twenty horse power each,
and of best workmanship. Her total tonnage, including engines
which weigh thirty tons, is ninety-one tons. Her beams and
planking are of New Zealand pine, and her timbers are of
honeysuckle. She draws 3ft. water when full, and 2ft. 4in. when
light. She possesses accommodation for sixteen first-class
passengers and half as many second. There is also
accommodation in the Eureka barge, which tows alongside.
[7]
The Eureka launch is built of blue gum below, her upper planks of
New Zealand pine, and her decks of Baltic deal. Entire length on
deck, 106 feet; entire length of keel, 96 feet; breadth of beam, 12
feet; breadth of cross guards, 21 feet; depth of hold, 8 feet. Her
dimensions were:—Estimated measurement tonnage, 87 tons;
draught of water, with cargo, 3 feet; draught of water, without
cargo, 13 to 15 inches. The deck, which is covered with an
awning, is, from her peculiar construction, large enough for a
vessel of 300 or 400 tons.
[8]
This man, for want of evidence, was released, and sent back from
whence he came.
[9]
From those lakes, salt, in considerable quantities, is gathered and
transported into the interior, or to the nearest towns.
[10]
October 4th, above Euston, three emus or cassowaries were
observed swimming across the river. Amongst the Australian
aborigines there has been an evident desire to preserve this
gigantic bird, and for this purpose its flesh is forbidden, it is said,
to their young men. The Europeans, however, hunt it down
without any consideration, unless it be for the sake of its feathers
or for a steak of its flesh. An emu, we are told, with a kick can kill
a dog or break a horse’s leg, and to judge from the size of their
claws (some of which we have on board) this can be no
exaggeration. Dogs are, however, trained to seize them by the
neck, and, in this way, overpower them easily.
[11]
The Darling, during more than half the year, would, it appears, be
navigable for upwards of 150 miles from its junction with the
Murray. A few years ago indeed, it was settled as far as Lake
Minindie, a Government Reserve, 200 miles from the mouth; but
the outrages of the blacks—the distance from an available market
—or other causes—led to the abandonment of these runs. It has
now only 50,000 sheep upon its banks; but would, it is said,
depasture four times that number, and might be occupied up to
Fort Bourke, 500 miles from the junction. The waters of the
Darling, at times fordable, begin to rise about July, and subside
again in February.
[12]
According to Mr. Jamieson, Mickie had a companion; and the
native was alone.
[13]
In Victoria, as much as 35s. had been demanded for one day’s
stabling and food for one horse.
[14]
These birds were afterwards brought on board and conveyed to
Adelaide.
[15]
These “store” sheep, as they are called, are sent overland to be
fattened on the banks of the river, whence the clip is easily
transported to Adelaide.
[16]
In the Wakool we found three and a-half fathoms water.
[17]
As in some degree confirmatory of this last extract, it may be
mentioned that on taking in wood, at the Great Bend, we were
informed that, of the woodcutters who had been working for us,
one had been a West India proprietor, and the other the nephew
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