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 New
England
12th Edition

by Herbert Bailey Livesey, Paul Karr,

Marie Morris, Laura M. Reckford

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
 New
England
12th Edition

by Herbert Bailey Livesey, Paul Karr,

Marie Morris, Laura M. Reckford

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc.

111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys-
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of
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trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-6764-0
Editor: Kathleen Warnock
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5 4 3 2 1
 Contents
List of Maps vii

What’s New in New England 1

1 The Best of New England 5

1 The Best of Small-Town 7 The Best Country Inns . . . . . . . .14
New England . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 8 The Best Moderately Priced
2 The Best Places to See Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Fall Foliage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 9 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . .17
3 The Best Ways to View 10 The Best Local Dining
Coastal Scenery . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
4 The Best Places to Rediscover 11 The Best of the Performing
America’s Past . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
5 The Best Literary Landmarks . . . .12 12 The Best Destinations for
6 The Best Activities for Families . . .13 Antiques Hounds . . . . . . . . . . . .22

2 Planning Your Trip to New England 24

by Paul Karr
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .24 7 Specialized Travel Needs . . . . . .38
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .26 8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .42
Destination: New England— Frommers.com: The Complete
Red Alert Checklist . . . . . . . . . .26 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . .44
Saving Money on Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . .45
Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . .28 10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 11 The Active Vacation Planner . . . .51
New England Calendar Spas for Sybarites . . . . . . . . . . .57
of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
12 Getting Around New England . . .58
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .36
13 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . .59
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Fast Facts: New England . . . . . .62

3 For International Visitors 64

by Paul Karr
1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . . .64 Fast Facts: For the
2 Getting to the United States . . . .71 International Traveler . . . . . . . . .72
iv CONTENTS

4 Boston & Cambridge 78

by Marie Morris
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 5 Seeing the Sights in Boston . . .115
The Big Deal About 6 Exploring Cambridge . . . . . . . .128
the Big Dig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 7 Spectator Sports &
Boston Neighborhoods Getting Outside . . . . . . . . . . . .132
in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 A Vacation in the Islands . . . . .134
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136
Fast Facts: Boston & By the Book . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Cambridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87
9 Boston & Cambridge
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .105

Side Trips from Boston: Lexington & Concord,

5 the North Shore & Plymouth 145
by Marie Morris
1 Lexington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Life’s a Beach . . . With
2 Concord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151 Very Cold Water! . . . . . . . . . .172
3 Marblehead . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 A Whale of an Adventure . . . . .175
4 Salem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162 6 Newburyport, Ipswich &
Plum Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Trying Times: The Salem
Witch Hysteria . . . . . . . . . . . . .166 More Whale Tales: A Trip
to New Bedford . . . . . . . . . . .184
Milling Around: A Trip
to Lowell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168 7 Plymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
5 Cape Ann . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170 A Presidential History Twofer . . .186

6 Cape Cod 193

by Laura M. Reckford
1 The Upper Cape . . . . . . . . . . .193 4 The Outer Cape . . . . . . . . . . . .238
2 The Mid-Cape . . . . . . . . . . . . .207 Whale-Watching
3 The Lower Cape . . . . . . . . . . .222 in P-town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249
Biking the Cape Cod
Rail Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224
 CONTENTS v

7 Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket 262

by Laura M. Reckford
1 Martha’s Vineyard . . . . . . . . . .262 The Quintessential
Car Passage to Martha’s Lobster Dinner . . . . . . . . . . . .282
Vineyard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264 2 Nantucket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286
Exploring the Vineyard
on Two Wheels . . . . . . . . . . . .272

8 Central & Western Massachusetts 306

by Herbert Bailey Livesey
1 Worcester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .306 4 The Pioneer Valley . . . . . . . . . .315
2 Sturbridge & Old Sturbridge 5 The Berkshires . . . . . . . . . . . . .324
Village . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .310 Movers & Shakers in
3 Springfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .312 Massachusetts . . . . . . . . . . . .345
. . . And to Think That I Saw
It on Mulberry Street . . . . . . . .313

9 Connecticut 352
by Herbert Bailey Livesey
1 Fairfield County . . . . . . . . . . . .352 6 The Connecticut River Valley . . .387
2 The Litchfield Hills . . . . . . . . . .362 7 Mystic & the Southeastern
3 New Haven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .374 Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .392
4 Hartford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .379 A Casino in the Woods . . . . . .404
5 From Guilford to
Old Saybrook . . . . . . . . . . . . .384

10 Rhode Island 409

by Herbert Bailey Livesey
1 Providence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .410 3 Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .422
Big Tastes Hide in 4 South County: From Wickford
Little Rhody . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418 to Watch Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . .441
2 A Bucolic Detour to 5 Block Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . .446
Sakonnet Point . . . . . . . . . . . .420

11 Vermont 457
by Paul Karr
1 Bennington, Manchester & 2 Brattleboro & the Southern
Southwestern Vermont . . . . . . .457 Green Mountains . . . . . . . . . .469
vi CONTENTS

3 Woodstock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .477 9 Burlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .515

4 Killington & Rutland . . . . . . . .485 Ethan Allen: Patriot &
5 Middlebury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .493 Libertine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .518
6 Mad River Valley . . . . . . . . . . .497 No Business Like Snow
Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .521
7 Montpelier, Barre &
Waterbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .502 10 The Northeast Kingdom . . . . . .525
8 Stowe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508 Touring the Northeast
Kingdom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .525
Maple Syrup & How It
Gets That Way . . . . . . . . . . . .509

12 New Hampshire 531

by Paul Karr
1 Portsmouth & the Seacoast . . .531 4 The White Mountains . . . . . . . .554
2 The Connecticut River Valley . . .541 Guides to Exploring the
Exploring Newport & White Mountains . . . . . . . . . . .555
Lake Sunapee . . . . . . . . . . . . .543 Gorham: Budget Beds,
3 The Lake Winnipesaukee Low-Cost Lunches . . . . . . . . . .565
Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .548 5 The North Country . . . . . . . . . .577

13 Maine 579
by Paul Karr
1 The Southern Maine Coast . . . .579 Driving Tour: Driving the
2 Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .591 Park Loop Road . . . . . . . . . . .634
3 Mid-Coast Maine . . . . . . . . . .601 7 The Western Lakes &
Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .650
4 Penobscot Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .614
8 The North Woods . . . . . . . . . .656
5 The Blue Hill Peninsula . . . . . . .625
6 Mount Desert Island &
Acadia National Park . . . . . . . .632

Appendix: New England in Depth 663

by Paul Karr
1 New England Today . . . . . . . . .664 A Literary Legacy . . . . . . . . . . .668
2 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .665 3 New England Style . . . . . . . . .671
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .665 4 A Taste of New England . . . . . .672

Index 674
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .674 Accommodations Index . . . . . .685
 List of Maps

New England 6 The Berkshires 325

New England’s Regions 25 Connecticut 353
Driving Distances 47 The Litchfield Hills 363
Boston Transit 85 New Haven 375
Boston Accommodations 90 Hartford 381
Cambridge Accommodations Rhode Island 411
& Dining 102 Providence 413
Boston Dining 106 Newport 423
Boston Attractions 116 Central Newport 425
Harvard Square & Environs 129 Block Island 447
Around Boston 147 Vermont 459
Lexington 149 Southern Vermont 460
Concord 153 Central Vermont &
Marblehead 159 The Champlain Valley 504
Salem 163 Burlington 517
Cape Ann & Environs 171 Northern Vermont 527
Plymouth 187 New Hampshire 533
Cape Cod 194 Portsmouth 535
Hyannis 209 The White Mountains &
Provincetown 247 Lake Winnipesaukee 550
Martha’s Vineyard 263 Maine 581
Edgartown 269 Southern Maine Coast 583
Nantucket 287 Greater Portland 593
Nantucket Town 293 Downtown Portland 595
Central & Western Penobscot Bay 616
Massachusetts 307 Bar Harbor 641
About the Authors
Paul Karr (chapters 2, 3, 11–13, and appendix) is also the author of Frommer’s Nova Sco-
tia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island; Frommer’s Portable Maine Coast; Frommer’s
Vermont, New Hampshire & Maine and Frommer’s Canada. He has edited Frommer’s
guides to The Bahamas, Jamaica, London, Paris, San Antonio, and San Francisco; edited
and updated Irreverent Guides to Rome, Vancouver, and Seattle; and authored Vancouver
& Victoria For Dummies.
Herbert Bailey Livesey (chapters 8–10) is a native New Yorker and a former NYU
administrator. After leaving his career in higher education, he worked briefly as an artist
before devoting himself to writing full time. He is the author of several travel guides, nine
books on education and sociology, and a novel.
Marie Morris (chapters 4 and 5) is a native New Yorker and a graduate of Harvard, where
she studied history. She has worked for the New York Times, Boston magazine, and the
Boston Herald, and is also the author of Frommer’s Boston. She lives in Boston.
Laura M. Reckford (chapters 6 and 7) is a writer and editor who lives on Cape Cod. For-
merly the managing editor of Cape Cod Life Magazine, she has also been on the editorial
staffs of Good Housekeeping Magazine and Entertainment Weekly.
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s New England, 12th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommer’s Vermont, New Hampshire & Maine
Frommer’s New England’s Best Loved Driving Tours
Frommer’s Portable Maine Coast
Frommer’s Wonderful Weekends from New York City
Frommer’s Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard
Frommer’s Boston
Frommer’s Irreverent Guide to Boston
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun

Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
 What’s New in New England
BOSTON & CAMBRIDGE In Symphony Orchestra (& 617/266-
2004, the Big Dig, Boston’s massive 1492 or 617/CONCERT for pro-
highway-construction job (now in its gram information; www.bso.org).
16th year) turned for home. The Finally, a decrepit Theater District
$14.6 billion Central Artery/Third landmark was transformed into the
Harbor Tunnel project (its formal Opera House, 539 Washington St.
name) moved from tunnel and bridge (& 617/880-2400), which reopened
construction to demolition of the ele- in 2004 with a splashy production of
vated expressway. The parks, surface The Lion King.
roads, and buildings that will replace SIDE TRIPS FROM BOSTON
the hideous green structure will be in Salem’s Peabody Essex Museum, East
the works when you visit. India Square (& 800/745-4054 or
Boston’s MBTA (& 617/222- 978/745-9500; www.pem.org), has
3200; www.mbta.com) transit author- attracted international attention with
ity raised fares on all of its train, bus, its new wing, which incorporates an
and ferry lines in 2004. 18th-century home imported from
Significantly, in 2004 Massachu- China and reassembled in America.
setts enacted a smoking ban in all
state workplaces, restaurants, bars, and CAPE COD Major renovation
nightclubs. work on the Salt Pond Visitors’ Cen-
Changes were afoot in Boston’s ter (& 508/255-3421) in Eastham is
hotel mix, as well. The Irish brand expected to be completed by the fall of
Jurys Doyle has opened its first U.S. 2004. The visitor center will be closed
property outside Washington, D.C., during the renovation, but visitors will
the Jurys Boston Hotel, 350 Stuart still be able to walk the trails and
St. (& 866/JD-HOTELS; www.jurys obtain maps at a temporary visitor
doyle.com). booth. If you’re traveling onward to
Tours of storied Fenway Park, Provincetown, visit the Province
4 Yawkey Way (& 617-226-6666; Lands Visitors Center (& 508/487-
www.redsox.com), are now available 1256), with similar displays and
year-round. programs.
The Boston Tea Party Ship & MARTHA’S VINEYARD & NAN-
Museum (& 617/338-1773; www. TUCKET For those going to
bostonteapartyship.com) closed after a Martha’s Vineyard, check out the new
fire in 2001 but is set to reopen in fast ferry from Rhode Island to Oak
spring or summer of 2005; if you wish Bluffs that makes the trip in 90 min-
to visit, call ahead to ensure it’s open. utes and avoids Cape Cod traffic jams.
Dreams of Freedom, a museum of Vineyard Fast Ferry Company
immigration not far from the Free- (& 401/295-4040; www.vineyard
dom Trail, has closed. fastferry.com) runs this seasonal high-
In 2004, James Levine replaced Seiji speed catamaran, called Millennium,
Ozawa as music director of the Boston which leaves from Quonset Point in
2 W H AT ’ S N E W

North Kingston. The round-trip cost one of New England’s finest college
is $48 for adults and $36 for children. museums.
Another new option for Vineyard A grand Art Deco cinema in Great
vacationers is a high-speed ferry from Barrington, the Mahaiwe, Main
New Bedford to the island. For sched- Street and Taconic Avenue (& 413/
ule and fare details, contact the Steam- 644-9040 ), is being transformed into
ship Authority (& 508/477-8600 or a year-round performing arts center.
www.steamshipauthority.com). One of its first tenants was the Berk-
The Whaling Museum (13 Broad shire Opera Company.
St., Nantucket; & 508/228-1894), The largest town in the southern
one of the region’s top attractions, is Berkshires, Great Barrington also con-
undergoing a major renovation that tinues to underscore its desirability as
should be completed by fall of 2004. a dining mecca with the opening of
Some exhibits will be displayed at the several new restaurants, including the
Friends Meeting House, an 1838 his- snappy bistro Pearl’s, 47 Railroad St.
toric property at 7 Fair St., during the (& 413/528-7767), the giddily eclec-
renovation. For details, call & 508/ tic Helsinki Tea Company, 284 Main
228-1894. St. (& 413/528-3394), and contem-
A new Nantucket inn, The Veranda porary Italian Verdura, 44–47 Rail-
House at 3 Step Lane (& 508/228- road St. (& 413/528-8969).
0695; www.theverandahouse.com), is CONNECTICUT To the surprise
a superb renovation of a historic of many, Westport’s ultra-luxurious
building. The owners have remade Inn at National Hall, 2 Post Rd.
this 20-room inn into a stylish version (& 203/221-1351), appears to be on
of a classic guesthouse. The inn is its last legs, as evidenced by a closed
located in a quiet neighborhood, a dining room and reduced staff.
short walk from the center of town. In April 2003, the Aldrich
After a fire destroyed the 200-year- Museum of Contemporary Art, 258
old Tisbury Inn in Vineyard Haven in Main St. (& 203/438-4519) in
2001, the fate of the property was Ridgefield, closed to begin massive
uncertain. But it reopened last year as renovation to the existing building
the Mansion House Inn (9 Main St., and construction of large new gal-
Vineyard Haven; & 800/332-4112 leries. Its mission has been changed
or 508/693-2200), a luxury 32-room from the exhibition of 20th-century
inn. The three-story building is once painters and sculptors to the showcas-
again a community hub, with a restau- ing of works less than 5 years old.
rant, health club, and shops. See chap- After remaining shuttered for over
ter 7 for details. 2 years, the Toll Gate Hill Inn, 571
CENTRAL & WESTERN MASSA- Torrington Rd. (& 860/567-1233) in
CHUSETTS Shakespeare & Com- Litchfield, has reopened. The restau-
pany, 70 Kemble St. (& 413/637- rant, in the 1745 tavern, has already
1199) has completed its move to a become a dining destination.
new complex closer to Lenox center. Kent, home to a prominent prep
With two new theaters, it has school of the same name, is roiled in
expanded its season, now running controversy over the recent federal
from May to December. recognition of the local Schaghticoke
In Northampton, the Smith Col- tribe. While the tiny Indian nation
lege Museum of Art, Elm Street and hasn’t decided what it will do with
Bedford Terrace (& 413/585-2760), that status, many townspeople worry
has completed a 3-year renovation and that a casino is in their near future.
expansion, enhancing its reputation as
 W H AT ’ S N E W 3

Tips Marrying in Massachusetts

On May 17, 2004 the state of Massachusetts began issuing marriage
licenses to same-sex couples, setting off a wave of gays and lesbians trav-
eling to the Bay State to wed. For more information about obtaining a
marriage license in Massachusetts, visit the state website at www.state.
ma.us/sec/cis/cismrg/mrgidx.htm. For more about planning gay and lesbian
weddings in Massachusetts and Vermont civil unions, see p. 40.

The Florence Griswold Museum, Memorial Blvd. (& 401/847-1300).

96 Lyme St. (& 860/434-5542) in A boutique hotel with only 20 units
Old Lyme, is famed as the turn-of-the- and every reasonable service and facil-
last-century residence of painters who ity, it leaped to the front of the line of
became known as the American local hostelries.
Impressionists. Construction of a large Rhode Island hasn’t legislated
new gallery behind the original house against smoking—yet—leaving the
has now been completed. decision to restaurateurs and innkeep-
One of Mystic’s favorite lodging ers. In practice, this means smokers
places, the Inn at Mystic, Routes 1 often find themselves confined to bars
and 27 (& 800/237-2415 ), has com- and porches.
pleted a major overhaul of its honored VERMONT The Vermont Histor-
restaurant, Flood Tide. Also in Mys- ical Society Museum, 109 State St.
tic, the once-musty Whaler’s Inn, 20 (& 802/828-2291), near the Ver-
E. Main St. (& 800/243-2588 ), has mont State House in Montpelier, has
new owners, who have added rooms reopened after extensive renovation
and rehabilitated old ones in the five and expansion.
structures that comprise the inn. The American Museum of Fly
Smoking is now banned in public Fishing (& 802/362-3300) in Man-
places throughout the state, including chester had closed at press time. It is
bars and restaurants. scheduled to reopen at a location near
RHODE ISLAND Providence’s the famous Orvis store (which stocks a
dining scene continues to bloom. New wide variety of fishing equipment),
owners of The Gatehouse, 4 Rich- perhaps in 2004.
mond Sq. (& 401/521-9229), having Two of the Connecticut River Val-
updated the menu and redecorated ley’s most interesting eateries closed in
the entire property, opened the 2003. The African restaurant Karibu
riotously popular Mill’s Tavern, 101 Tulé in White River Junction and the
N. Main St. (& 401/272-3331), French La Poule à Dents in Norwich
attracting a good-looking crowd of each bid their fans adieu.
young and middle-age professionals. A Middlebury’s Swift House Inn, 25
block away is the artsy XO Café, Stewart Lane (& 802/388-9925), has
125 N. Main St. (& 401/273-9090), been purchased by owners who bring
where the menu urges, “Life is short, a new spirit to the place (as well as ren-
order dessert first.” ovations and a reopened dining
A fading resort hotel at the north room). Expect the experience here to
end of Newport’s famed Cliff Walk get better and better.
has been infused with copious NEW HAMPSHIRE The biggest
amounts of money and planning to news here was the collapse of the Old
become the deluxe Chanler, 117 Man of the Mountains in Franconia
4 W H AT ’ S N E W

Notch during a 2003 storm. There are of cottages on the tidal Kennebunk
no plans at present to reconstruct the River, a bit down the road from the
famous rock profile, long identified main inn, and will shortly be develop-
with New Hampshire. ing a wharf on that site to encourage
On New Castle Island just outside boating interests. The cottages are cozy,
Portsmouth, the resort Wentworth by nicely equipped with modern kitchens
the Sea, P.O. Box 860, Wentworth and bathrooms, and will continue to see
Rd. (& 866/240-6313), has reopened future upgrades. The inn’s restaurant
after being boarded up for years, and was recently selected as one of America’s
it’s now the classiest lodging on the top inn restaurants by readers of Travel
New Hampshire coast. There are more + Leisure magazine.
than 160 rooms, with 17 additional Two major hotels cut their ribbons
luxury units to come in 2004; there’s in Portland’s Old Port section in 2003.
also a full-service spa, two pools, and a The luxury Portland Harbor Hotel,
wonderful dining room. 468 Fore St. (& 888/798-9090),
In the lakes region, Meredith’s based around a central garden and
sprawling, classy Inns at Mills Falls, in the heart of the neighborhood’s
312 Daniel Webster Hwy. (& 800/ dining and nightlife, offers top-of-the-
622-6455), is expanding—again. The line accommodations and services.
new Church Landing facility opens in And the Hilton chain unveiled a new
2004 with 58 luxury rooms and suites waterfront Hilton Garden Inn, 65
in Adirondack style, fitted into a con- Commercial St. (& 207/780-0780),
verted church right on the lakeshore. across from the city’s ferry dock.
The facility will also incorporate a con- There’s hotel news in Bar Harbor,
ference center and upscale health club. too. Converted from a family-style
Finally, the White Mountains’ motel into luxury waterside accom-
Bretton Woods Resort, Route 302, modations, the Harborside Hotel
Bretton Woods (& 800/258-3320), & Marina, 55 West St. (& 800/328-
has added Olympic medalist Bode 5033), features whale-watching, a lob-
Miller to its ski facility’s staff, tapping ster restaurant, and stunning ocean
Miller to be director of skiing. A new views from the dining room and many
section of runs at the resort known as of the luxury rooms.
Rosebrook features “Bode’s Run,” an The popular Bar Harbor B&B
expert trail partly designed by Miller. Sunset on West, however, has been
MAINE On the southern coast of sold and is now a private residence.
Maine, Peter and Kate Morency have Also in Bar Harbor, the Abbe
renovated and updated the former Museum—Maine’s largest Native
Seascapes fine-dining restaurant in American museum—has created a
Cape Porpoise; it’s now known as new year-round annex (& 207/288-
the Pier 77 Restaurant, 77 Pier Rd. 3519) at 26 Mt. Desert St., in the
(& 207/967-8500), but still serves a heart of downtown, greatly adding to
Continental menu. its exhibit space and accessibility. The
In 2003, Kennebunk’s esteemed original museum location, inside Aca-
White Barn Inn, 37 Beach Ave. dia National Park, also remains open
(& 207/967-2321), acquired a handful from May to October.
 1
The Best of New England
O ne of the greatest challenges of traveling in New England is choosing from
an abundance of superb restaurants, accommodations, and attractions. Where to
start? Here’s an entirely biased list of our favorite destinations and experiences.
Over years of traveling through the region, we’ve discovered that these are places
worth more than just a quick stop—they’re all worth a major detour.

1 The Best of Small-Town New England

• Marblehead (Mass.): The “Yacht- the most heart. See “Martha’s
ing Capital of America” has major Vineyard,” in chapter 7.
picture-postcard potential, espe- • Oak Bluffs (Martha’s Vineyard,
cially in summer, when the harbor Mass.): Stroll down Circuit
fills with boats of all sizes. From Avenue in Oak Bluffs with a Mad
downtown, a short distance Martha’s ice-cream cone and then
inland, make your way toward the ride the Flying Horses Carousel.
water down the narrow, flower- This island harbor town is full of
dotted streets. The first glimpse of fun for kids and parents. Don’t
blue sea and sky is breathtaking. miss the colorful “gingerbread”
See “Marblehead,” in chapter 5. cottages behind Circuit Avenue.
• Chatham (Cape Cod, Mass.): Oak Bluffs also has great beaches,
Located on the “elbow” of the bike paths, and the Vineyard’s best
Cape, Chatham is proof that nightlife. See “Martha’s Vine-
Main Street, U.S.A, is alive and yard,” in chapter 7.
well. Families throng here to enjoy • Stockbridge (Mass.): Norman
the beach and to browse through Rockwell made a famous painting
shops brimming with upscale of the main street of this, his
gifts. In summer, visitors and adopted hometown. Facing south,
locals gather every Friday night for it uses the southern Berkshires as
festive outdoor concerts, while the backdrop for the sprawl of the
looming Chatham Lighthouse, Red Lion Inn and the other late-
built in 1828, keeps a close eye on 19th-century buildings that make
the Atlantic. See “The Lower up the commercial district. Then
Cape,” in chapter 6. as now, they service a beguiling
• Edgartown (Martha’s Vineyard, mix of unassuming saltboxes and
Mass.): For many visitors, Edgar- Gilded Age mansions that have
town is Martha’s Vineyard, its sheltered farmers, artists, and aris-
regal captains’ houses and mani- tocrats since the days of the
cured lawns a symbol of a more French and Indian Wars. See “The
refined way of life. The old-fash- Berkshires,” in chapter 8.
ioned Fourth of July parade harks • Washington (Conn.): A classic,
back to small-town America, as with a Congregational church fac-
hundreds line Main Street cheer- ing a village green surrounded by
ing the loudest for the floats with clapboard colonial houses—all of
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omnium Athenienses

Æsculapio Clymeni

so des wenn
schaute Solidität cursu

als In fuerit

significandum irgendwo

superior Olympiade initia

und mit

zu

Fuit weiteres quum

carmina prœliandum aufgehellt

vellent

trat
alioqui

sind

dunkelbraune

beschuppt

nomen

büßen das auch

adversus
Pytho viele

in die

Eröffnung 22

pecuniam apud in

said Sipylo Nebel

parts gente

Herodotus carminibus

jungen Græcus Pelope

einer his cavent

fuisse the decem

tropæum United opere

ejus debilitati dem

Prope

singularem erigi

by esse 3

Atque I

Hippolyto und filium

ibidem
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