Denim washing

Prepared By :

Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir

ID: 2010000400008
13th Batch (session 2009-2013)
Department : Wet Processing Technology
Email: [email protected]
Blog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University
Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh

right

What type
of Denim
wash it
is ???

INTRODUCTION

Enzyme & bleach are used in denim apparel washing .Acid enzyme &
neutral enzyme both are used in denim apparel .Enzyme is more suitable
than bleach for environment on the other hand bleach are suitable for
production but its a hazardous in environment .So enzyme is more
popular.

ng on garments construction different types of washing process can

anvas/Knitted/Corduroy - Normal wash, Pigment wash, Caustic ,Si wash

Jeans/Gabardine - Enzyme wash, Stone wash, Bleach wash , Acid wash

abric- Super white wash

Washing:
It is a technology by which outlook, size and fashion of garments are
changed or modified is called garment washing. Washing is mainly
applied on denim garments and any other casual garments.
Purpose of washing:
To remove sizing materials and to soften the garment.
To modify the appearance to make fashion.
To create different effects and finishes.
To create vintage look and used effect.

DENIM WASHING

Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to

enhance the appeal and to provide strength. Dry denim, as opposed to
washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed
during its production. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that
with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially
distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such
fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the
activities of their daily life. This creates what many feel to be a more
natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.

DENIM
What is denim ?
Denim is a twill-weave woven & 100% cotton fabric that uses
different colors for the warp and weft. One color is predominant on
the fabric surface. Denim wears well and resists snags and tears. It is
available in different weights and is usually made of cotton, although
hemp denim is also available. Denim is commonly used for jeans and
work clothes, as well as for casings for organic futons and pillows.
Characteristics of Denim Fabric
It is for long wearing.
It is hard wearing.
It is very strong and durable.
It resists snags and tears
It creases easily.
Denim fabric process :Desizing Enzyme Caustic bleaching Hypo Softening Hydro
extractor Dryer m/c Garments Delivery.

DENIM
Denim are dye by indiga dye:
IndigoBackground
Indigo, or indigotin, is a dyestuff originally extracted from the
varieties of the indigo and woad plants. Indigo was known throughout
the ancient world for its ability to color fabrics a deep blue. Egyptian
artifacts suggest that indigo was employed as early as 1600B.C. and
it has been found in Africa, India, Indonesia, and China.
The dye imparts a brilliant blue hue to fabric. In the dying process,
cotton and linen threads are usually soaked and dried 15-20 times.
By comparison, silk threads must be died over 40 times. After dying,
the yarn may be sun dried to deepen the color. Indigo is unique in its
ability to impart surface color while only partially penetrating fibers.
When yarn died with indigo is untwisted, it can be seen that the inner
layers remain uncolored. The dye also fades to give a characteristic
wom look and for this reason it is commonly used to color denim.
Originally extracted from plants, today indigo is synthetically
produced on an industrial scale. It is most commonly sold as either a
100% powder or as a 20% solution

Production sequence of Washing

Garments receive from
sewing

Scrapin
g
Tearing

Whickering

P.P spray

Curing/Tearing

Washing

Drying Hot +
cold

Checkin
g

Disposes

DENIM GARMENT WASHING:

GARMENT WASHING:
The technology which is used to modify the appearance, out look
comfort ability & fashion of the garments is called garment washing.
Since 1978, garments pre washing has become more and more
popular. It began with denim jeans for the following reasons,
1. Before garments pre washing was done on jeans, consumers had
to wash them at home before wearing them because before
washing they were too stiff, too long and too big to wear.
2. After pre washing, the consumers do not have to worry about the
fit after they wash them as pre washing has taken away almost
all the shrinkage and made the jeans stable.
3. After pre washing the denim color looks more lively particular
with the pronounced washed look left on the double needled
seams.

DENIM WASHES ARE OF TWO TYPES

Mechanical washes
1. Stone wash
2. Micro-sanding
Chemical washes
3. Denim bleaching
4. Enzyme wash
5. Acid wash

TYPES OF DENIM WASHES

TYPES OF WET WASH PROCESS:
1. Normal wash/ garments wash/ rinse wash.
2. Pigment wash.
3. Caustic wash.
4. Silicon wash.
5. Stone wash.
6. Enzyme wash.
7. Stone Enzyme wash.
8. Acid wash.
9. Bleach wash.
10.Tinting wash
TYPES OF DRY WASH PROCESS:
11.Sand Blasting.
12.Hands scraping.
13.Over all wrinkles.
14.Permanent wrinkle.
15.Grinding &Destroy.
16.Broken & tagging.
17.P P Spray & P P Sponging.
18.Etc.

TYPE OF MACHINE USED IN WASHING PLANT:

1. Sample washing Machine (Horizontal / Vertical Type)
2. Washing Machine (Side loading)
3. Washing Machine (Front loading)
4. Hydro extractor Machine
5. Dryer Machine (Steam)
6. Dryer Machine (Gas)
7. Chemical Mixture Machine
8. Industrial Oven (Gas/Electric)
9. Boiler
10. Submersible Pump
11. Grinding Machine
12. Tagging Machine
13. Steam chamber for crinkle
14. E.T.P (Effluent Treatment Plant)
15. Generator
16. Sand Blasting Gun
17. Sand Blasting chamber
18. Spray gun and dummy
19. Screw compressor
20. Laser draw

TYPES OF CHEMICAL USE IN WASHING PLANT:

1. Enzyme

2. Detergent

3. Acetic Acid

4. Anti-stain

5.Bleaching powder

6.Sodium hyposulfite

7. Caustic Soda

8. Soda Ash
10.

9. Sodium Bicarbonate
11.

cationic/nonionic

potassium

Permanganate
Flax

softener

12. Micro Emulsion Silicon

13. Salt (sodium chloride)

14. Buffer

15. Hydrogen peroxide

16. Stabilizer

17. Fixing

18. Catanizer

19. Optical Brightener

20. Resin

21. Sodium Metabisulphite

22. Desizing agent

Some Washing Chemical List

Desizing Agent : DesizingHts, D-Peast

Anti Back Stain Agent : Antistain Lp-30
Fastness Improvers For Dyeing : Albafix
Levelling Agents For Dyeing : Albatex
Fastness Improvers For Dyeing : Albafix
Enzyme : G Enzyme S89, G Enzyme
Sl, InnozymeNpe S89
Salt : G/Salt.
Alkali

: Naso4

PhControl : Using Buffer & Acid

Bleaching Agent : Sodium Hypochlorite Naocl;
15% Cl2Available
Calcium Hypochlorite.
Neutralizing Agent : Hydro Peroxide, Bisulphate
OrThiosulphate.

Function of Chemicals used on denims

1. Bleach fast Indigo
Value addition to denim
Retains indigo on certain parts
Kind of resist effect
Chemical applied by brush, cured at 150C Ex. Indigofix
AXN
2. Anti-depositing agent
Prevents back staining of fabric by loose indigo during
washing
Improves contrast in denim
Used in stone wash step
3. Dye stuffs with softener
To carry dyeing and softening in one step
Soft and supple hand
Saves time, money and energy as added to final rinse
Gives used and worn out effect

Function of Chemicals used on denims

4. Anti creasing agent
Provides fabric to fabric lubrication
Prevents formation of crack marks and
streaks
Minimizes abrasion and gives strength
5. Wrinkle formation
Creating smooth and permanent wrinkle
Cross linking concept Ex. DMDHEU
White pigment
Can be applied by brush, spray or screen
Then cured at 150C
Washed and treated with softener
6. White

pigment
Can be applied by brush, spray or screen
Then cured at 150C
Washed and treated with softener.

CHEMICAL WASHES

A Typical Denim Garments Washing

Process:
Garments received from sewing room / section is subjected to
following process:

1.

Batching,

2.

Desizeing,

3.

Enzyme/stone wash treatment,

4.

Decolonization, (Bleach wash or Acid wash)

5.

Finishing

Desizing:
1.

Batching: Garments are often turned inside out first; this

is a very time-consuming labor oriented task. Garments
are weighted in a suitable wt. as per m/c capacity.

Desizing: Mainly it is done to remove the water insoluble

starch from the fabric of garments as well as it gives a
degree of absorbency & soft handfeel to the garments. There
are three methods of desizing.
1.

Enzymatic Desizing

2.

Oxidative Desizing

3.

Mechanical Desizing

Enzymatic Desizing
Enzymatic Desizing:
Here amylase enzyme is used widely and this is the most
popular method of removing starch. Amylase breaks down the
long water insoluble starch molecular chain into water-soluble
smaller sections (sugar), which can be washed away very
easily. During removal of starch it also removes some indigo
from the fabric, which is also a great advantage for Denim
wash as this produces frosty effect.
In case of size binder components, PVA, sizing waxes
lubricants, which are not cleaved by enzyme or impossible to
remove by enzymes, are removed by hot wash with detergent.
But this detergent should be compatible with enzyme.

Enzymatic Desizing
Recipe & Purpose Of
Chemicals:
Chemicals
Dose % WOG
Name

Purpose

Amylase
Enzyme

1-3%; As
recommended

Breaks down the longer starch

molecular chin into smaller
section & this is soluble in
water

Surfactant

As recommended
0.2-1.0%

Wash off the sizing

Compatible with enzyme &
others.

Fixing agent As recommended

0.5-2.0%

Fixing the dyes

Wash-off of dyes.

Temperature As recommended
& Time
140 F-150 F & 4060 min

Smaller section of starch, Wax

binder converted to Water
soluble components

L: R

&

reduce

1:5-1:10

After
required
cleaning
the
PH drain a hot
6-8wash 50C for 5-3 Itminhelps
to for
prevent
back
desize chemicals. Here it is very important
staining.to introduce hot water
because introduction of cold water re-solidify the fat and wax.

Enzymatic Desizing
Reaction Of Alpha Amylase With Starch:
CH2OH

CH2OH
O
OH

CH3
O
OH

O
OH
O

OH

O
OH

OH

OH

CH2OH
O
OH

CH2OH

OH
OH

O
OH
O

OH

OH

Alpha-amylase enzyme attacks the starch only at the alpha

1-4 linkage, producing water-soluble dextrine i.e. soluble
sugars. The progress like as:
Starch dextrine maltose glucose (water-soluble)

Oxidative Desizing
Oxidative Desizing: This method is considered as faster than
biological process & this can also cleaves PVA sizes, which are not
broken by amylase enzyme. As many denim fabric manufacturers
apply size with a combination of starch and PVA this process gives us
an advantages over biological or enzymatic desizing in case of
removal of PVA.
CH3
OH

O
OH

CH3
OH

O
OH

CH2O
O
H
OH

CH2O
O
H
OH
OH

OH

CH2O
O
H
OH
OH

Oxidative Desizing
Recipe & Purpose Of Chemicals
Chemicals
Name
Nonionic/Anionic
Surfactant

Dose % WOG
As recommended
0.5-1.0%

Purpose
Wash off of the size ingredients

Hydrogen per 2-4%

oxide 35%

It cleaves the starch & make it

water soluble.

Alkali
(Soda,NaOH)

0.5-1.0%

Maintain PH 9-11, Increase of

sulpher dyed garments PH
should be below 10.5.

Stabilizer

0.6-1.5%

To stable H2O2

Fixing agent

As recommended
0.5-2.0%

Fixing the dyes & reduce Washoff of dyes.

Temperature
& Time

As recommended
140 F-150 F & 10-30
min

Broken starch, wax, Binders

converted to water soluble with
the help of temp & time.

After drainage a hot wash or hot rinse required for removing the desize
L: R
1:5-1:10 (with acid) process is required which depends
chemicals.
A neutralizing
on the type and requirement of next process.

DENIM BLEACH
Denim bleach In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such
as sodium hypochlorite or KMnO4 is added during the washing with or
without stone addition. Discoloration produced is usually more
apparent depending on strength of the bleach liquor quantity,
temperature and treatment time. It is preferable to have strong
bleach with short treatment time. Care should be taken for the
bleached goods so that they should be adequately antichlored or
after washed with peroxide to minimize yellowing. Materials should
be carefully sorted before processing for color uniformity.

DENIM BLEACH
WHAT IS BLEACH:
A bleach is a chemical that removes colors or whitens, often via
oxidation. Common chemical bleaches include household chlorine
bleach, a solution of approximately 36% sodium hypochlorite
(NaClO), and oxygen bleach, which contains hydrogen peroxide or a
peroxide-releasing compound such as sodium perborate, sodium
percarbonate, sodium persulfate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, or
urea peroxide together with catalysts and activators, e.g.
tetraacetylethylenediamine
and/or
sodium
nonanoyloxybenzenesulfonate. To bleach something is to apply
bleach, sometimes as a preliminary step in the process of dyeing.
Bleaching powder is calcium hypochlorite.
Many bleaches have strong bactericidal properties, and are used for
disinfecting and sterilizing. Most bleaches are hazardous if ingested
or inhaled, and should be used with care.

DENIM BLEACH
BLEACHING WASHING
This way be considered as a preparatory process of mercerizing ,dyeing,
or printing .therefore proper bleaching should be carried out other wish
the subsequent process would be fault.
Objective:
1. To remove the size material from the garments.
2. To remove the starch present on the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments.
4. To increase the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
5. Especially develop the Bio-polishing affect cotton/Denim.
6. Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.
7. Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a
very smooth surface.

DENIM BLEACH
Different type of bleaching:
1) OXIDIZING AGENT:
1. OZONE (O3)
2. HYDOGEN PEROXIDE (H2O2)
3. SODIUM HYPOCHLORIDE (NaOCl)
4. SODIUM CHLORITE (NaClO2)
5. POTASSIUM DICHROMATE (K2Cr2O7)
2) REDUCING AGENT
6. ZINC DUST (ZnO)
7. SODIUM HYPO-SULPHITE (Na2S2O2)
8. HYDROGEN SULPHIDE (H2S)

Mechanism of bleach action:

MECHANISM OF BLEACH ACTION:
Color in most dyes and pigments is produced by molecules, such as
beta carotene, which contain chromophores. Chemical bleaches
work in one of two ways
An oxidizing bleach works by breaking the chemical bonds that
make up the chromophore. This changes the molecule into a
different substance that either does not contain a chromophore, or
contains a chromophore that does not absorb visible light.
A reducing bleach works by converting double bonds in the
chromophore into single bonds. This eliminates the ability of the
chromophore to absorb visible light.

PROCESS CYCLE:

WHAT IS ENZYME:

ENZYME WASH

Enzymes are proteins Bio catalyze.Its has huge life cell .The cell is
the basic structural and functional unit of all known living organisms.
It is the smallest unit of life that is classified as a living thing, and is
often called the building block of life.Some organisms, such as most
bacteria, are unicellular (consist of a single cell). Other organisms,
such as humans, are multicellular. (Humans have an estimated 100
trillion or 1014cells; a typical cell size is 10m; a typical cell
mass is 1nanogram.) The largest known cell is an unfertilized
ostrich egg cell.In enzymatic reactions, the molecules at the
beginning of the process are called substrates, and the enzyme
converts them into different molecules, called the products. Almost
all processes in a biological cell need enzymes to occur at significant
rates. Since enzymes are selective for their substrates and speed up
only a few reactions from among many possibilities, the set of
enzymes made in a cell determines which metabolic pathways occur
in that cell.

ENZYME WASH
OBJECTIVE:
1. To remove the size material from the garments.
2. To remove the starch present on the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments.
4. To increase the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
5. Especially develop the Bio-polishing affect cotton/Denim.
6. Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.
7. Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a
very smooth surface.
Types of Enzyme:
Mainly two types of Enzyme:
1. Acid Enzyme (a. Powder b. Liquid form.)
2. Neutral Enzyme (a. Powder b. Liquid form.)
After enzyme washing we get thise change:
Color
Gsm decrease
Softener
Strength

ENZYME WASH

ENZYME WASH
It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the Application of organic
enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired
color is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity
of the bath or its temperature. Post treatment includes final rinsing and
softening cycle. The effects produced by the cellulose enzyme are
Use of cellulose making the seams, hems, and pockets more
noticeable
Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect.
Faded garment with acid cellulose enzyme provides less color
contrast in proportion to garment washed with neutral cellulose
enzymes.
Garment load size of the machine is 35-40 jeans per machine and it
cannot be overloaded.

ACID WASH
ACID WASH
It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in
a solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for
localized bleaching resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white
contrast. In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric can be
enhanced by optical brightening. The advantage of this process is
that it saves water as addition of water is not required.

PROCESS CYCLE

Mechanical washes

STONE WASH:
Stone wash:
In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into
large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve
a soft hand and desirable look. Variations in composition, hardness,
size shape and porosity make these stones multifunctional. The
process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment.
Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it
abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye
particles from the surfaces of the yarn.

STONE WASH:
LIMITATIONS OF STONE WASHING:

Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control Outcome

of a load of jeans is never uniform, little percentage always
getting ruined by too much abrasion.
The process is non-selective.
Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing
machines get abraded.
This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment,
and increases production costs.
Stones may turn into powder during the process of making
the garment grayish in color and rough too
Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash
Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts

MICRO-SANDING
There are 3 ways for this technique:
Sandblasting
Machine sanding
Hand sanding or hand brushing

Sand blasting
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in
granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high speed
and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface to be treated
to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look.
It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.
It is a water free process therefore no drying required.
Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
Any number of designs could be created by special techniques.

Sand blasting

Other washing: -

1. Chemically bleaching jeans so that the color fades away

2. Breaks down the fibers of jeans and creates white streaks or spots
on denim
3. Gives a unique rugged look, also called snow wash
4. Earlier involved the use of pumice stone
5. Presently process involves spraying chemical and removing it
immediately
6. Come in colors like blue, black, green, brown, grey etc.
Cellulose wash
7. This is done to achieve a wash down appearance without the use
of stones or with reduced quantities of stones.
8. Cellulose enzymes are selective only to the cellulose and will not
degrade starch.
9. Under certain conditions, their ability to react with cellulose
(cotton) will result in surface fiber removal (weight loss).
10.This will give the garments a washed appearance and soft hand.
Ozone fading
11.By using this technique, the garment can be bleached.
12.Bleaching of denim garment is done in washing machine with
ozone dissolved in water.
13.Denim garments can also be bleached or faded by using ozone
gas in closed chamber.
14.In the presence of UV light, there is an interaction between the
hydrocarbons, oxides of nitrogen and oxygen that causes release
of ozone.

Flat finish
It is a special process done to impart fabric with an even wash down
effect and very clean surface. Originally liquid ammonia was used, but
now use mercerization plus calendering processes to achieve the flat
surface. Mercerization swells up the cotton fibers and allows the
calendering to press flat the surface. They consider this as an
imitation process to the use of ammonia, which is toxic and not
allowed in commercial use in most countries
Over dye
1. Dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of color
2. Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create a 'dirty' look
3. Also can be applied with spray gun or paintbrush for local
coloring
Sun-washing
4. A very light shade by bleaching and stoning
5. Looks as if the sun faded the fabric
Super dark stone
6. Commercial term for an extra dark indigo color
7. Results from a double-dyeing technique

Snow wash denim

Denim treated with a variation of acid wash that imparts bright white
highlights.
Quick wash denim
1. Aims at minimizing wash cycle time
2. Results in more economical washes and solving many other
washing problems faced by

launderes during fashion wash cycles

3. The yarns are ring dyed using indigo giving 25 to 30% less fixed
dye to obtain a given shade
4. During wash cycle,indigo dye can be removed quickly,giving
washed look

Other mechanical washing

1. Whiskering
2. Shot gun denim
3. Water jet fading
4. Super stone wash
5. Ice wash
6. Thermo denim
7. Laser technology finish

Water jet fading

1. Hydrojet treatment is used for enhancing the surface finish,
texture, durability of denim garment.
2. Hydroject treatment involves exposing one or both surfaces of the
garment through hydrojet nozzles.
3. The degree of color washout, clarity of patterns, and softness of
the resulting fabric are related to the type of dye in the fabric and
the amount and manner of fluid impact energy applied to the
fabric.
4. As this process is not involved with any chemical, it is pollution
free.

Laser technology
5. It is a computer controlled process for denim fading.
6. This technique enables patterns to be created such as lines and/or
dots, images, text or even pictures.
7. It is water free fading of denim.
8. Being an automatic system, chances of human error are slim.
9. Also called spray painting in denims.
10.This technique has relatively high cost.

Super stone wash

It is type of wash treatment of denim garments in which the denim
garments is subjected to prolonged stonewash treatment for more than
six hours. Soda ash and soap are used for hard wash. Steam is used up to
60-800C for one hour to finish the washing process. It is followed by
acetic acid wash treatment and then the garments are neutralized and
rinsed.
Ice wash
1. Ice washing in denim fabrics is done to remove more than half the
dye during washing
Thermo-denim
2. Also called double denim. A lightweight fabric (either plain, fancy
or colored) is glued to the denim. The glue comes off after washing
and the trousers look like they've been lined
Vintage
3. Applies heavy stonewashing or a cellulose enzyme wash, with or
without bleach
4. Gives an old and worn look

DRY WASHING SECTION

Dry wash: Dry wash is mainly done by mechanically or by hand.
Different process of dry wash is described below-

Flow chart Of Dry Process:

Scraping:

Scraping: Removing color from the surface of denim is called scraping.

Features:
This process is done before wet washing of the garment.
Fabric is scrapped with different tools in order to get an used
effect.
All scraping processes are done manually, so it is difficult to
achieve consistent finishes every time.
Types:
1. Sand blasting: Compressed air guns shoot sand forcibly onto
desired area of jeans to create abrasion.
2. Hand sand: Abrasion of the fabric surface is done with sand
paper. This process is done by hand.
3. Hand sand all over: Scraping is done all over the garment by
sandpaper.
4. Laser scraping: Laser machine is used to get the effect. This
process is very expensive.
5. Central crease mark: Jeans is folded and then scraping is done
by ironing with temperature and pressure or by sand paper.
6. Crimping: Fabric is crimped then ironed with high temperature
and pressure to create crease marks.
7. Pocket mark: scraping is done to make the inside pocket visible

Spraying:

2) Spraying: Chemical is sprayed onto jeans by a spray gun. It is done

for discoloration.
Types:
Spray PP (Potassium Permanganate): PP sprayed onto desired
areas of jeans and PP oxidizes indigo color. This can be done before or
after wet washing. There are two steps involved in this process.
Step 1: PP is sprayed onto jeans and dried then pink color
appears.
Step 2: Neutralization is done after spraying to get final effect.
Normally sodium meta bisulphate is used as neutralizer.
Bleach Spray: Bleach solution is sprayed or rubbed onto desired
areas of jeans. Neutralization is done immediately after spraying. It
provides more yellowish tone than PP spray
Spray pigment color: Pigment color is sprayed on the upper parts
to get a vintage and muddy look. Jeans must be cured in order to fix
the pigment and to have permanent effect on jeans.

Spraying:

Resin color spray: A mixed solution of resin and pigment color is

sprayed onto the garment. It provides unique color and touch that dyeing
can not give.
Resin dip: Full garment is dipped into a resin solution to produce coating
effect on garment.
Resin color dip: Full garment is dipped into a resin solution mixed with
pigment color. The aim of resin color dip is to produce coating effect and
unique color on garment.

Whiskers:
Whiskers: This is also known as Cats Whiskers or Moustaches.
These worn out lines or effects generated by different methods are
done mainly on hip and thigh areas of jeans.
Types:
Whiskers: This is called normal whiskers. Effect is achieved with
sand paper or sand blasting.
Process:
1. This is done mainly with the help of sharp edge emery paper
rolled on fine wood stick or pasted on plastic material.
2. Before starting execution placements and pattern must be
marked on garments. Stencils can also be used for design.
PP spray whiskers or Pigment spray whiskers: Effect is
achieved by spraying potassium permanganate or pigment color.
Usually done on top of sand paper whiskers (normal whiskers) to
highlight them. Shape or design can be achieved by placing a stencil
on jeans.

Whiskers:
Whiskers creases: Fabric is folded in many places and then
scrapped o the surface.
3D Resin Whiskers: Resin is added after normal or PP spray
whiskers to make the effect permanent.
Process: Resin is sprayed all over or on local area of the garment
with a spray gun. Then whiskers are designed by folding the fabric.
To get a permanent effect, garment must be put into oven and dry at
high temperature for 30 minutes.

Tacking:
Tacking: Tacking is done by swift
tag machine. Garment is folded
three, four or five times and tacked
or locked through folds. Then the
garment

is

Permanent

washed
fold

and

dried.

appears

after

removal of tag pin. The inner of the

fold is dark due to less exposure of
rubbing

and

chemicals.

Faded

effect come on the folded parts.

Most favorite areas are waistband,
bottom hem, back pocket, back
yoke and front pocket corners.

SPOTS:
Spots:
Types:
PP spot and bleach spot: Spots are created with PP (Potassium
Permanganate) or bleach solution. Process depends on the type
of fabric.
Color spot: Spots are created with pigment color. Oven process
(curing is needed to fix permanently the pigment on the
garment).
Silicon spot: Spots are created with silicon. It creates dirty or
wet effect on the garment.

Rubbing:
Rubbing: Rubbing is usually done in combination with spraying.
This process allows us to give more contrast and highlight some
part of the garment, specially on waistband or on top of tacking
effect.
Types:
Rub pigment: A sponge or piece of fabric
is soaked into the solution then rubbed on
the garment.
Rub PP (Potassium Permanganate):
Rubbing PP gives more contrast effect
than PP spray. Normally PP is rubbed to
highlight tacking effect.
Rub bleach: A sponge is soaked into
bleach solution then rubbed on the
garment.

Damages:

Damages: In order to achieve favorite vintage look, many

damaging processes are used.
Types:
Grinding: Mainly used on edges of the garment such as pocket
edges and pocket hems. This is done by running the edges
against abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn out effect.
Normally pen type of stone tools are used for small production.
For large production, fixed grinding machines are used. In this
machine the operator rub the edges to rotating stone wheel to
get the effect.
Abrasion: This is done on desired areas of
jeans by pen type of stone tools. If the tool
is driven warp wise, weft will be visible. On
the other hand if the tool is driven weft
wise, warp will be visible. As there is no
color contrast, it will not be as clearly
visible as weft.

Damages:

Hole: A hole is created on the

garment with cutter or other tools.
Scratching: Garment is scratched
with sharp tool. Scratching is
normally
done
warp
wise
or
horizontally.
Needle effect/ cuts: Effect is
created by cutting the warp yarn by
knife, so that weft yarn becomes
visible. Needle is also used to tear
out fiber warp wise.

WET WASHING SECTION

Wet Wash: Wet wash is normally done by using different types
of chemicals. Different process of wet wash is described below-

Flow chart of wet process:

Normal wash/ Garment wash:

Wash in hot water with detergent and softener
Rinse in plain water
Drying in tumble until it is 100% dry
Sodium can be added if we want more washed look. Depending on the
type of fabric and our desired washing effect we should adjust
The temperature of water
The amount of detergent or sodium
The length of time of wash
Effects:
Hot water, detergent or sodium will dissolve starch
Softener makes the fiber soft
Tumble drying makes the fabric more fluffy
Use: Casual shirts, pants (non denim), jacket.

WET WASHING

Silicon Wash:
Silicon Wash:
Silicon wash is normally done on twill, denim, canvas etc.
Silicon wash provides high and durable softness, elastic and
slippery handle.
It also helps ant pilling effects and dimensional stability.
Process:
1st Step: De sizing.
2nd Step: Washing with silicon
Recipe:
M: L = 1:8
Acetic acid = 0.6g/l
Softener = 1g/l
Silicon = 0.5g/l
Temperature = 40c
Time = 15-20 minutes
3rd Step: Hydro extracting to remove excess water.
4th Step: Drying in tumble dryer.

WET WASHING

Over dye/Tinting:

Over dye/Tinting:
This is being done mostly on denim garments to give them another
look.
Process:
First denim garments are washed with stones so that the double
needle seams, pocket flaps and those areas exposed the most get
washed down to light blue color or white.
Then dye is put into the tumble to dye the garment into the color
we want. In this process a coating of new color will come on the
garment particularly where it has been washed down to a light
shade to create a different look.
Normally reactive dye should be used for better color fixation.

WET WASHING

Caustic Wash:

Caustic Wash:

This is applied to the garment made of pigment printed fabric.

In case of fabric printing, we do caustic wash (i.e scouring) at first

to clean up fabric surface from greases and impurities then we do
printing on fabric. Conversely if we apply caustic wash in garment,
we do pigment printing with binder on fabric at first then we make
garments with this fabric and then we wash the garments with
caustic and hot water. At this time about 30% of the printing will
be washed away together with the foreign materials, leaving
about 70% of the printing on the fabric making the design or
stripe nice and soft.

Special color fading effect is produced as well.

WET WASHING

Denim washing Plant

Denim washing Plant

Denim washing Plant

Denim washing Plant

Denim washing Plant

Denim washing Plant

Denim washing Plant

Denim washing Plant

Denim washing Plant

Denim washing Plant

FINAL FINISHED PRODUCT : -

CONCLUSION: -

Throughout the decades, denim continued to gain a wider market. By

the 1970s, women were wearing denim as often as men, and denim
skirts and dresses could be found in numerous styles. In the
80s,designer jeanswere the rage, and a style once associated with
the working class was updated for affluent yuppies. Though denim is
still considered a casual material, it is not usually worn for more
formal occasions, it is not unusual to see people sporting jeans at
high end night clubs, and many designer denim garments cost in the
hundreds of US Dollars (USD). An American Fabrics magazine
predicted back in 1969 that denim would become a fashion
statement for many occasions when it said, "What has happened to
denim in the last decade is really a capsule of what happened to
America. It has climbed the ladder of taste."

right

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