Different Types

and
Classification
of Stitches
 Stitch
-One complete movement of a threaded needle through a
fabric or material such as to leave behind it a single loop
or portion of thread, as in sewing, embroidery, or the
surgical closing of wounds.
Example of stitches
The Stitch
Classes

+
The six classes of stitches as given in Federal
Standard 751a are:

Class 100 chain stitches.

Class 200 stitches originating as hand stitches.
Class 300 lock stitches.
Class 400 multi thread chain stitches.
Class 500 over edge stitches, and
Class 600 covering chain stitches
Class 100 Chain Stitches

The Chain Stitch class 100 includes stitch types 101, 102,
103, 104 ,105, 107 and ,108. It is formed with one or
more needle threads that form a loop on the underside of
the fabric. It has no lower thread.
Stitch Class 101
Also known as”Single Thread Chainstitch”
The 101 Single thread chainstitch is formed
using just one sewing thread introduced by
the sewing needle. Stitch Type 101 is most
often used for temporary stitching [or
basting]. Its main disadvantage is its
tendency to run back from the finishing end
of the seam.
Stitch Class 102
Stitch class 102 is also known as
Single thread chain stitch. Stitch class
102 is formed using two-needle thread
(1and 2), loops of which are passed
through the material from the needle
side. Thread 2 is intra-looped with
thread 1 on the other side of the
material.
Stitch Class 103
Also known as Single thread Blind stitch.
Stitch class 103 is formed using one needle
thread (1), loop of which is passed into the
material from the needle side, through
portions of the material, emerging on the
needle side where it is intra-looped at the
next point of needle penetration.
Stitch Class 104
Also known as “Saddle Stitch” . Stitch
class 104 is formed using one needle thread
(1), loop of which is passed into the
material from the needle side, passed back
through the material to the needle side at a
distance and intra-looped on the needle side
of the material at the next point of needle
penetration.
Stitch Class 107
Also known as “Chain Stitch” Stitch class
107 is formed with one needle thread (1),
loop of which is passed into the material
from the needle side, and intra-looped on
the other side. This stitch type is the same
as 101 except that successive single stitches
form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
Stitch Class 108
Also known as “Chain Stitch”. Stitch class
108 is formed using one needle thread (1),
loop of which is passed through the material
from the needle side to the other side and
passed back through the material to the
needle side at a distance. The thread is
intra-looped where the next loop is passed
through the material.
Class 200 Stitches

Also known as “Hand Stitch”Class 200 Stitches

consists of hand for mation of stitches done by
hand with the exception of 205, which simulates a
hand running stitch, but is for med by a special
machine. Typical types of Class 200 stitches are
basting stitches and back stitches.
Running Stitch The running stitch is one of the most basic
types of hand stitches, and it has many
variations. It’s used for gathering, mending,
and tucking. Depending on its use, you can
either knot your thread or take a couple of
back stitches to lock it into place. In its
longer form, it becomes a basting stitch.
Basting Stitch Use the same technique as the running stitch, but
make longer stitches (between 1/4 inch and a 1/2
inch).

Today, we tend to pin baste more than hand baste

our garments and projects, but hand basting can
still be useful, especially with both lightweight
(silk and chiffon) and heavyweight (leather and
Melton) wools.
Backstitch Before sewing machines, all clothes were built by
layer upon layer of backstitches. This is one of the
most practical types of hand stitches to know.

Working from left to right, take a small stitch, then

insert the needle at the end of the previous stitch,
bringing it out beyond the point where the thread
emerges. Continue, always inserting the needle in
the end of the previous stitch.
Catch stitch
You can use this stitch to to finish hems
(Cross-Stitch) with fabric that doesn’t fray, and to tack
facing invisibly.

Working from left to right, take tiny stitches

on the hem, and then on the garment. Keep
the stitches loose and even. They will
appear as crosses on the wrong side and
small stitches on the right.
Slip Stitch This stitch is my go-to stitch when it comes to
hems and other finishes. It’s tidy and almost
invisible, when it’s done right, and with care on
both sides. Once you get the hang of it, this stitch
will be one of your favorites, too.

Bring the needle through the fold of the hem and

pick up a thread of fabric at the same point. Make
the stitches about a 1/2 inch apart and fairly loose.
Blanket Stitch
(Buttonhole Stitch) If you want to sew eyelets or buttonholes by hand, learn
the buttonhole stitch. Secure the thread on the wrong side
of the fabric, then with the right side facing upward, insert
the needle from back to front through the fabric 1/8 inch
from the edge. Wrap the working head around behind the
eye end of the needle, then behind the point. Pull the
needle through, bringing the knot to the fabric edge.
Continue, making closely spaced stitches and knot.

The eyelet version is worked in a circle, with the wrapped

edge to the inside; the blanket stitch variation has at least a
1/4 inch spacing between stitches.
Class 300 Lock Stitches
The Lock Stitch Class 300 is the most commonly used and is easiest to understand. A Lock
stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, a needle thread that feeds from the top
and a lower thread that feeds from a bobbin. A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle
thread loop as it passes around the bobbin and interlocks the two threads. If a lock stitch
thread breaks, the two threads used to form the stitch lock and the whole line of stitches
won’t unravel. Lock stitch machines are versatile and can be used for a variety of
operations. It is also the only stitch formation that can be backstitched.
Stitch Type 301 Standard Forward / Backward Stitching

Begin straight stitching 1/8-3/8 inch from the fabric edge.

Backstitch the forward stitch over the pinned or basted
seam. Repeat the reverse stitch to finish.

You can use the straight stitch for seams, under stitching,
stay stitching, and simple top stitching.

The 301 is referred to as a plain stitch or a straight stitch.

It is the stitch type performed by the standard home sewing
machine. Equal amount of needle and bobbin threads are
used, and upper and lower threads interlocks in the center
of the fabric. The 301 stitch uses the least amount of thread
and produces the flattest stitch.
 ZigZag Stitch
Stitch Type 304 Type 304 is the traditional zigzag stitch that is used to sew
appliques, attach lace on lingerie, and produce faggotting.
Other types of zigzag lock stitches are class 308 and 315,
which form a longer and a wider zigzag by using several
stitches before changing direction. Faggotting is a decoration
stitch used to connect two pieces of fabric, but allowing
space between the pieces. It provides elongation, is smooth
and will not ravel out.

The zigzag stitch provides a clean finish to raw edges, and

you can use it as a finish technique in combination with a
stay stitching line. You can adjust both the width and length
of this stitch to fit the needs of your project. For example,
use this stitch if you’re hemming jeans with a sewing
machine.
 Seam Finishes

Now that you’ve got the hang of the different sewing stitches, it’s on to
seam finishes. You will use seam finishes to prevent fraying and ensure
that the seam will survive wear and tear. Before choosing a specific
seam finish, consider the type of fabric, the strength and type of seam
you want, and the way you want your seam to look.
Zigzag

You can use a zigzag finish on most types of fabric.

Once the seam is sewn and pressed open, zig stitch the
raw edge and and trim away the excess. The width and
length of this can vary depending on the fabric weight.
There is a variation where the seam-edges are trimmed
to half their depth, zigzagged together, and pressed to
one side.
Turn and Stitch

This is mainly used on crisp cottons. Fold and press the

seam, allowing a 1/4 inch, and machine stitch along the
folded edge to finish. The seams are then pressed open, or to
one side, depending on the pattern’s directions.

This creates a tidy finish and wears quite well.

Bias Tape This is mostly used on unlined jackets and skirts.

Using purchased 5/8 inch bias tape, enclose the raw edge
with the tape and stitch through all layers. Commercial bias
tape

is slightly wider on one side; that side should be on the

underneath the fabric.

You can also make your own bias tape in contrasting or

matching fabric.
 Pinked seams are the simplest of seam finishes. Using
Pinked Seams pinking shears, trim away as little of the seam allowance as
possible. This version is best used on wools and polyester
fleece and is not very hard wearing.

A better version of this finish is to machine stitch 1/4 inch

from the seam, then trim the edges with pinking shears.
Hand Overcast The hand overcast seam finish is used as
an alternative to the zigzag stitch in small
areas or on very thickfabrics.
Taking very loose stitches, overcast the
raw seam edges by hand.
Top Stitch The top stitch creates a hard hem line, and
can be used to strengthen a seam or as a
decorative finish.

Press the seams opens and then stitch in

place from the wrong side. The seam are
often pinked beforehand, sometimes with
a contrasting bobbin thread.
Class 400 Multi-Thread Chain Stitches
The 400 class is the second most frequently used stitch type. This multi thread chain
stitch requires one or more needle threads that form loops as they pass through the
fabric and interloop with the looper thread on the underside. All of this feeds
continuously from the cones. The 400 class stitch requires an upper and a lower
thread and uses a looper to carry the lower thread and form a thread loop on the
underside of the fabric. Machines producing 400 class stitch, do not back tack,
although, stitches can be condensed to secure the ends of the threads.
 It is also called double locked chain stitch. Its appearance is
The 401 or Two the same as the 101 stitch with a flat straight thread formation
Thread Chain Stitch similar to a lock stitch on the face of the fabric and a loop on
the underside. The 401 stitch can be unraveled, but only if the
looper thread is pulled in the direction the stitches were
formed. The 401 stitch machines are capable of operating at
very high speeds. These chain stitch machines often use
multiple needles to produce parallel rows of stitching.

The loop formation of the chain stitch elongates when

extended; thus it is used for seams that require elasticity, such
as setting sleeves and attaching elastic. This stitch type is also
well suited to automated sewing equipment, such as automatic
seamers.
S t i t c h Ty p e 4 0 2 o r C o r d i n g Stitch Type 402 or Cording Stitch is used
Stitch
primarily for stitching permanent creases. It uses
two needle threads that produce two parallel rows
of stitching on the face of the fabric. A looper
thread travels between the two needle threads on
the back of the fabric creating a ridge or crease
between the needle threads on the face. This type
of stitching can be found on sportswear where a
crease needs to be maintained or on the back of
gloves.
Stitch Type 404

Stitch Type 404 stitch is similar in

appearance to a 304 stitch, in the
sense, that it is also a zigzag stitch,
except the difference that it is formed
as a chain stitch and contains loops on
one side.
 Stitch Type 406 are known as bottom cover
Stitch Type 406 stitches. They are used to cover seam or unfinished
edges on the inside of garments and to keep them
flat. They appear as 2 or 3 rows of parallel “lock
stitching” on the face of the fabric while a looper
thread connects the rows on the back. The 406
stitch uses 2 needle threads and 1 looper thread
like a 402 except that it does not ridge up. Stitch
type 406 is used to produce flat, comfortable
seams on necklines of t-shirts bottom felling of t-
shirts, or on binding of men’s briefs.
Stitch Type 407 Stitch type 407 is very much similar to
406 stitch except that it uses three
needle threads and has even more
stretch. The primary use of 407 stitch
is to attach elastic to undergarments,
which require maximum stretch.
Class 500 over Edge Stitches
The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads. These are
characterized by loops from at least one group of threads passing around the edge of the
material. The loops form a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric, with
threads intersecting at the edge. This prevents the fabric from fraying. These stitches
have high elasticity, do not unravel easily, and a trimming knife on the machine ensures a
neat edge prior to sewing. They are often called overedge, overcast, overlock, serge or
merrow. Overedge machines, must have three stitch forming devices, a needle to carry
the thread through the fabric, a looper or spreader to carry the thread from the needle to
the edge of material on the bottom, and a looper or spreader to carry thread up and over
the edge of the material on the top. The various stitch types use various combinations of
these three devices.
The odd numbered stitch types 501, 503, 505 and 521 are
known as “break open” stitches, because they act similar
to the spiral back of a notebook.
The fabric is held tight together, but not secure along the inner edge of the
stitching. This allows the stitch to break open. These stitches are best used
for edge finishes and hem. These stitches are characterized by a loose thread
on the bottom, that is pulled to the edge of the fabric, where it interloops the
looper thread. This creates a purl stitch or interlooping of thread that wraps
and protects the edge of the fabric.
The even numbered stitch types in this class – 502, 504, 512
and 514 – have a much tighter needle thread that holds the
two layers of fabric together at the actual seam line.

These stitches do not “grin through” or become exposed between the layers
of fabric. These stitches also have a much smoother appearance and are more
durable.
 Serging
Serging is the process of finishing a single ply of
fabric to prevent ravelling. This is often one of
the first processes in sewing a garment, if
another edge finish is not to be given later in
production.
 Edge Stitches
Types 503, 504 and 505 stitch are overedge
stitch types that are used for serging.
Type 501 Class 501, one thread: end-to-end
seaming and hems
Type 502 Stitch type 202 are formed by two
threads, a needle and looper thread. It
is a tight stitch that is used primarily
for seaming the outer edge of bags.
Type 503 Type 503 is also formed by two threads, a
needle and looper thread. It is used for blind
hemming and serging. It is used mainly for
hems in T-shirts and other kit garments and
serging seams of dress slacks, because the
two-thread construction is less likely to
press through the garment.
Type 504 & 505 Stitch type 504 and 505 are three thread
overedge stitches that are formed with one
needle thread and two looper threads. They
require more thread in the formation, but
they also have more stretch. Type 504 is a
highly extensible, but secure stitch that
makes an excellent seam for knit garments,
such as seams of cut and sewn sweaters. It
is the most common of 500 class.
Mock Safety Stitch types 512 and 514 are sometimes called
mock safety stitches. They are four thread
Stitches overedge stitches that are formed with two
needle threads and two looper threads. Type
514 stitch is stronger and more elastic than 512
stitch, but both may be used for seaming knits
and wovens. However, 514 stitch makes a wider
seam and may be desirable for some knit
garments. Stitch types 515, 516, and 519 are a
combination of an overedge stitch and a 401
chain stitch.
Mock Safety These types are called safety stitches, because the chain
Stitches stitch that closes the seam is backed by another row of
tight overedge stitches. Both rows of stitches are formed
at the same time. This type of seaming is widely used by
manufacturers of shirts, jackets, blouses and jeans.
Class 600 Covering Chain Stitches
The cover stitch or 600 class stitch, often called a flat lock or a flat seam stitch, is an
advanced version of the 400 class stitch and is used primarily on knits and lingerie.
These stitches, referred to as top and bottom cover stitches, are commonly used to
cover both sides of the seam with thread. Threads must be chained off and be crossed
by another seam. This stitch class uses a lot of thread, but provides excellent top and
bottom cover and flat seams. Stitches in this class are most complex of all and may
have up to nine threads in total including four needle threads.
Stitch Types 602, 605 And 607
Type 602 Cover stitch 602 is a very strong and elastic
stitch used extensively by manufacturers of
knit garments to cover raw edges and
prevent raveling.

Class 602 is a 4-thread stitch with 2 needle

threads, 1 looper thread, and 1 top covering
thread.
Type 605
Cover stitch 605 is also a very strong and
elastic stitch used extensively by
manufacturers of knit garments to cover raw
edges and prevent raveling.
Class 605 is similar to the 602 stitch but
with 3 needle threads, 1 looper thread, and 1
top covering thread.
Type 607 The flat seaming stitch, 607, trims and
seams simultaneously. It is a 9-thread
stitch with 4 needle threads, 4 looper
threads, and 1 top covering thread.
Although we covered quite a few types of stitches, this is only the
beginning. As you become more proficient with sewing stitches, you will
discover even more techniques for you to master.

If you’re looking to dive deeper into the many different types of sewing
stitches, you’ll be sewing up a storm before you know it.
Activity #1

Identify the followingIdentify the following if its

Class 100,200,300,400, 500 or 600 Stitches.
1. Stitches consists of hand
formation of stitches done by hand.
2. It is formed with one or more needle threads that
form a loop on the underside of the fabric. It has no
lower thread.
3. The stitch types in this class are formed with one
or more groups of threads. These are characterized
by loops from at least one group of threads passing
around the edge of the material.
4.This multi thread chain stitch requires one
or more needle threads that form loops as they
pass through the fabric and interloop with the
looper thread on the underside.
5. The stitch types in this class are formed with one
or more groups of threads. These are characterized
by loops from at least one group of threads passing
around the edge of the material.
6.A Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to
form a stitch, a needle thread that feeds from
the top and a lower thread that feeds from a
bobbin.
7. Stitch requires an upper and a lower thread
and uses a looper to carry the lower thread and
form a thread loop on the underside of the
fabric.
8. A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle
thread loop as it passes around the bobbin and
interlocks the two threads. If a lock stitch thread
breaks, the two threads used to form the stitch lock
and the whole line of stitches won’t unravel.
9.The loops form a narrow band of stitching
along the edge of the fabric, with threads
intersecting at the edge. This prevents the
fabric from fraying.
10.These stitches, referred to as top and
bottom cover stitches, are commonly used
to cover both sides of the seam with
thread.
Activity 2
Make an essay answering the question “ Why is
important to learn different types and classes of
Stitches?”. It compose of minimum of 2
paragraph.
Thank you
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