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Apparel Quality Management

(GRAP2798)
Week 2: Garment inspection, sampling
plan & AQL. Discussion on Assignment 1
Lecturer: Rajkishore Nayak
[email protected]
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Course review

• Introduction inspection

• Inspection of raw • Garment inspection,

materials. sampling plan.

• Fabric faults and • Acceptable Quality Level

inspections. (AQL)

• In-process and final • Discussion on Assign 1

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Inspection loop
• Raw material
Inspection inspection (fabric &
trims)
o Fabric faults not
Fault
Correction
detection removed appear
in garment
o Trim faults same
• In-process
inspection
Determine
Feedback
cause • Final inspection

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Inspection of raw materials

• Fabric Inspection
• Should be done prior to
(machine)
spreading.
• Improves productivity.
• Reduces the percentage
of faulty garments.
• The defects are
identified and marked.

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Fabric inspection machine

• Automatic or manual Semi-automatic
https://www.youtube.com/wat
ch?v=6JkkYK3eV44
• Adequate light and good
vision is needed
• Measures the length
and monitors the width
as width can vary Automatic
https://www.youtube.com/wat
• Can also be done by ch?v=sRU66AiyJ2Q

digital imaging & AI

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Fabric faults
Defect Description
Uneven yarn Uneven mark on fabric caused by lint or
(thick-thin), slub small lengths of yarn sticking to fabric.
Barré Colour bars along warp/weft, which can
be caused by imperfection in the yarns.
Fly/ yarn Foreign fibres or soil on woven or knitted
contamination in the fabric surface.
Dead cotton Damaged, over/under mature cotton
(weather conditions), that is difficult to
process, leaving white or black spots.

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Fabric faults
Missing line Weft broken when weaving / the harness mis-
draw results in two ends weaving as one,
caused by one end of yarn missing from feed
and machine continue to run.
Holes Missing yarn, leaving behind a space,
caused by broken needle
Reed mark Running lines in the warp direction, caused
by bent reed wire causing warp ends to be
held apart.
Streaks Dark of light uneven lines, caused by faulty
processing

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Fabric faults
Stop marks Lines in the weft direction, caused when
machine stopped , the yarn elongates the
tension results in making across the width
Knots Uneven raised knot, two yarn ends are tied
together
Miss weave/ Pattern that different to the other area/
miss-knit stitches failed to form due to a
pattern malfunctioning needle or jack
Puckered Uneven surface, caused by bent needle
Selvage forming distorted stitches , usually a vertical
line

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Fabric faults
Selvage A break in the yarn of a knit fabric that
Torn causes the stitch to "run" along the needle
line or a void caused by a missing warp yarn
Pilling Fibre ball formation due to abrasion with
another surface.
Shading A change in shade either abrupt or gradual,
(selvage to caused by poor processing
selvage)
Dye Streaks Uneven streaks occurred during dyeing or
finishing process.

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Fabric faults
Colour Uneven colour application as the result of
smear colour being smeared during printing
process.
Crease Uneven marks showing light or dark lines as
Streak a results from creased fabric passing through
squeeze rollers in dyeing process
Slippage Uneven blotch marks caused due to
improper dyeing process
Bowing Woven weft yarns lie in an arc across fabric
width; in knits the course lines lie in an arch
across width of goods.

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Fabric faults
Colour Uneven colour application as the result of
smear colour being smeared during printing
process.
Crease Uneven marks showing light or dark lines as
Streak a results from creased fabric passing through
squeeze rollers in dyeing process
Slippage Uneven blotch marks caused due to
improper dyeing process
Bowing Woven weft yarns lie in an arc across fabric
width; in knits the course lines lie in an arch
across width of goods.

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Fabric faults
Skewing/Bias Weft yarns are not square with warp yarns
on woven fabrics or courses are not
square with wale lines on knits
Crease/ Fold Appears with creases formed by fabric
marks folds under pressure in finishing process

Pin holes Holes along selvage caused by holding

pins while fabric passes through stenter. –
Major, if pin holes extend into body of
fabric & visible in the finished product
Snagging A break, tear or pull of yarn in the fabric.

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Fabric faults
Yellowing of This is a phenomenon which causes light
fabric coloured fabric to yellow over time

Printer m/c Dye smudged along width of fabric because

stop of stop the printing machine stopping

Print out of Print out of fit, caused by print rollers not

register synchronized; leading to various colours of
the design not printed in proper position
Miss print Missing colour in the pattern caused by
colour feeding stoppage or faulty printing

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Fabric faults
Abrasion mark Improper scratch on fabric during
finishing processes.

Dirt/ Soil/ stain Dirty stains during fabric handling.

Oil Spots/ Fabric surface with an oil spot.

grease spots
Water spots / Light marks, usually caused by wet
Water marks fabric being allowed to remain too long
before drying; colour migrates leaving
blotchy spots.

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Fabric faults (Examples)

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Fabric faults

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Fabric faults

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Fabric faults
Other defects Penalty points
Removable
Patta
defect
Count or
Removable
composition
defect
variation
Short end Reject roll
Selvedge loose Reject roll
Wrong drawing Reject roll
Reed marks Reject roll
Temple marks Reject roll
Damaged selvedge Reject roll
Wrong weave Reject roll

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Inspection of raw materials

• Fabric Inspection
o 4-point system
o 4-point system-revised
o 10-point system
o Dallas system
o Graniteville “78” system

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Inspection of raw materials

• Fabric Inspection by 4-point system
o By AAMA and widely used for fabric quality
Length of defect Penalty points
Up to 3 in. 1
> 3 in. up to 6 in. 2
> 6 in. up to 9 in. 3
> 9 in. 4
Holes and opening
• 1 in. or less 2
• Over 1. 4

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Inspection of raw materials

• Calculate total points per 100 sq. yards
o If points >40, the fabric is “seconds” quality.
o If < 40, the fabric can be accepted

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Example of fabric fault analysis

• Fabric length: 120 yards • Points/ 100 yd2 =
and width 48 inches has
the following defects = (19 * 3600)/ 48*120 =
o 2 defects (<3”) = 2×1 = 2
11.9 defect points/ 100 yd2
o 5 defects (3-6”) =5×2= 10
• Acceptance criteria is 40
o 1 defect (6-9”) = 1×3 = 3
points/ 100 yd2. Hence,
o defect (>9”) = 1×4 =4
o Total point
fabric is accepted.
=19

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Sewing threads
• Thread passes through • Friction with the fabric, &
needle eye at 140-165 metal parts + needle heat
km/h. • These can lead to loss of
• It passes about 30 times strength (about 60%)
through the fabric, needle • Finish is applied to
eye and bobbin case threads to facilitate easy
before being stitched. sewing.

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Sewing threads
• Construction conditions.
o Yarn count/ ticket o A good thread should
number form consistent &
o ply uniform stiches without
breaking.
o Twist
• Imperfections: free from
• Strength & elongation knots, and slubs.
• Sewability: Test 100 yds of• Finish: lubricant facilitate
thread from at least 3 movement though metal
bobbins at the highest parts.
speed in normal
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Sewing threads
• Color: match with fabric much variation needs to
(Check with CCM) be adjusted by the worker.
• Color should not bleed • Winding: uniform winding
during washing, and dry- or else, thread breaks.
cleaning and fade in sun. • Yardage: Length should
• Package density: In a lot, be as mentioned in the
consistent value. Too package (+2%).

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Conclusions
• Fabric inspection is essential for producing good quality
garments at the maximum efficiency.
• Fabrics are inspected by inspection machines for a
range of faults. 4-point system is mostly used.
• Thread is an important trim in garment construction. It
should be tested for sewability, strength, imperfections,
twist, ticket number, package density, & color.

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References

• Managing Quality in the Apparel Industry by PV Mehta

& SK Bhardwaj. New Age International publisher 2015

• Garment manufacturing technology by R Nayak & R

Padhye. Elsevier, England UK 2015

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Thanks for your attention

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