The use of
Flash in
Photography
By Chris Timothy
Image by Patrick Hoelck
The use of
Flash in
Photography
1. Introduction – Purpose and considerations
2. On Camera Bounce Flash
3. Strobist Flash
4. Video Lighting
Introduction- Purpose
Using Flash is key to controlling and manipulating light
when available light is not the appropriate for the shot
you hope to capture. Flash gets given a bad name by
photographers using inbuilt factory camera flash. You
have no control over the direction of the that type of
flash. It can only come from one angle and height and
usually hits the subject square on. The visual effect looks
flat and lacks dimension and interaction between
highlights and shadows. As photographers we’re always
looking for perfect light and yet, the quality of available
light isn’t always ideal. But if you use flash wisely, you
are able to enhance or over-ride the available light in a
location you wish to shoot in. With careful and
considered use of flash, you are more in control of light,
and hence the way your photos will look – than if you
just accept the ambient light. the existing ambient light.
Introduction- Purpose

Having the flash come from a different
direction to that of the camera adds
real depth and interaction of highlights
and lows lights thus a nicer contrast.
Flash can delete an unwanted light
environment and add mood, emotion
and connotations to your work.

Here Patrick Hoelck’s Flash has added
a nice gradient between the highlights
and the shadows and also a natural
vignette on the background. In addition
to this it also acts as a key light to the
secondary light, the window. It solves
the problem of silhouetting. Flash can
interact with as well as concur natural
light.
Directional Flash by Patrick Hoelck
In built straight on Flash
Introduction – Considerations –Camera Tech/Settings
To use Flash to its potential you have to consider your camera settings to ensure you
correctly expose. There is no specific equation to ensure you do this correctly. However you
do need to analyse the lighting situation that you are in and consider what effect the flash
will have on it and ensure you leave room for it in your settings. For example deliberately
under exposing to leave room for the flash to enter the shot.




                     Without flash
                                         With Flash
      1/160 @ f3.2 @ 800 ISO
                  1/160	
  @	
  f3.2	
  @	
  800	
  ISO	
  with	
  flash	
  
Considerations. Exposure.
Using the Light Meter	
  
In digital SLR photography it’s important to understand what the light meter is
and what it does before discussing how to use the camera’s built-in meter to set
and manipulate exposure and in this case use it to helps allow for flash.

The built-in light meter found in your digital SLR camera measures the amount
of light being reflected off objects through the lens and into the camera.

This measurement is then used by the camera’s computer to determine what it
believes to be the best exposure for the scene, with that exposure being the
proper combination of shutter speed and aperture and ISO.

                                     Here is a DSLR in built, on screen light
                                     meter. It is measured in stops. The image of
                                     the light meter says your exposure settings
                                     are correct. A -1 = under exposed,+1 =
                                     over exposed.
Using the Histogram	
  
When we use Flash there is a danger we will wash out detail in anything which is
already bright/reflective. For example a white dress or the sky. The screen on DSLR
cameras are relatively small and it is difficult to check if a small areas has lost detail or is
bleached out. You could use digital zoom on play mode to check. However this is time
consuming. Another way to check is to use the histogram to analyse your exposure
results.
Using the Histogram	
  
A Histogram covers the Dynamic Range of color/tone from black to mid tones to
white. Dynamic range in photography describes the ratio between the maximum and
minimum measurable light intensities.
Using the Histogram	
  
As long as the data in your graph finishes before the edge of the graph you are ok. If
the data falls off the graph you have either over or under exposed.
Using the Histogram	
  
Under or over exposed?



         So, when shooting with flash always check you histogram
         graph to ensure your shot is not under or over exposed. If
         you don’t you will probably loose detail in the high lights
         or shadows.
Using the Histogram	
  




              Correctly Exposed
The Catch Light
To learn how to use Flash it is always useful to analyse other peoples flash work. There is a
really helpful clue to analysing where they have positioned or bounced their flash and it is
called a Catch light. A catch light is a small white circle in the subjects eye which tells us
where the flash was positioned in the shot.
The Freeman – Light Portraits
Dean Catch Celebrity
On camera
   bounce
     flash


     Image by Tom Munro
On camera bounce flash
On camera bounce flash is a way of controlling your light. It turns being “on
location” into a studio. The techniques requires the photographer to fire the
flash at/on somewhere which reflects. You fire the flash where you would like a
studio light positioned. 
	
                                    Window
                                    
                                    
                                    Subject
                                    
                                    
                                    
                                    
                                    
                                    
                                    Camera/Flash
                                                                 Firing the flash
Blocking Direct Flash




It	
  is	
  important	
  when	
  using	
  this	
  technique	
  you	
  block	
  any	
  flash	
  from	
  hiDng	
  your	
  
subject	
  directly.	
  You	
  do	
  this	
  with	
  various	
  pieces	
  of	
  equipment	
  but	
  you	
  could	
  use	
  a	
  
black	
  piece	
  of	
  foam	
  or	
  even	
  your	
  hand.	
  This	
  technique	
  allowed	
  the	
  photographer	
  to	
  
bounce	
  the	
  flash	
  to	
  his	
  leJ	
  creaKng	
  soJer	
  light	
  than	
  a	
  direct	
  flash.	
  The	
  direcKon	
  of	
  
the	
  flash	
  is	
  well	
  composed	
  as	
  the	
  subjects	
  take	
  on	
  a	
  higher	
  saturaKon	
  than	
  that	
  of	
  
the	
  locaKon.	
  
Here	
  the	
  Photographer	
  has	
  used	
  the	
  70-­‐200mm	
  lens,	
  a	
  f2.8	
  wide	
  open	
  aperture	
  and	
  then	
  
simply	
  has	
  to	
  wait	
  for	
  the	
  right	
  expression.	
  	
  He	
  is	
  posiKoned	
  so	
  that	
  there	
  are	
  defocused	
  
highlights	
  in	
  the	
  background	
  to	
  help	
  create	
  separaKon.	
  	
  The	
  flash	
  is	
  bounced	
  off	
  to	
  the	
  right	
  
into	
  the	
  large	
  recepKon	
  room.	
  Result-­‐	
  slight	
  contrast,	
  well	
  lit	
  shot.	
  
Still life and T.T.L
camera settings:  1/80 @ f4 @ 1600
ISO; TTL bounce flash. 

The Flash is shot to the left, reflects
back and makes a nice combination of
tones, again nice interaction between
the highlights and shadows. All the
same is not aesthetically pleasing.

What is TTL?

TTL is a AUTO for flash, it stands for
through the lens. It looks through the
lens and judges the light that is entering
the camera and powers the flash levels
accordingly.
Considerations – White Balance

White Balance is a difficulty when using on camera bounce Flash. This differs from using a
Strobist Flash. Your white balance really depends on if the flash fires at the subject directly,
then you could set your shite balance to flash, or if you bounce your flash off a wall, texture,
roof, it will bring some of the hue/colour tone from that service so your white balance may
need to change to match it. 

The images below show the orange tones that reflect from the location. Shooting on RAW
will enable you to change the white balance after you have shot to correct, or you can more
complexly cool the image in Photoshop or Lightroom to help gain the desired tones.
                                                                       Daylight	
  white	
  balance	
  
Strobist Flash



          Image by Tom Munro
The catch light
Strobist Flash
Strobist means off camera flash. This
method of flash photography allows you
to position the flash where you would
like it as it is totally free of your camera.
A photographer usually uses a stand or
assistant. Your flash acts as your studio
light. In this technique you need to sync
a flash gun/speed light with your
camera. This then enables your flash to
go off at the exact moment your camera
takes a picture. There are some
advantages and disadvantages of
shooting Strobist rather than On camera
bounce flash. For example the light will
be much harsher in strobist because all
the flash hits your subject. It is not
diffused like bounce flash so therefore is
hard more direct light rather than soft.
This results in a high contrast image.
	
  
Strobist Flash using T.T.L
To conduct this technique expose your shot pre flash, one stop under to
allow for when the flash enters the shot. The camera light meter will help
you in this.




1/200 @F/2.5 @ 200 ISO
                                                        1/200 @F/2.5 @ 200 ISO with TTL flash

Position your subject and flash to gain the desired shadows. Here a soft box is used to diffuse
the light. The light is being held with a Monopod rather than a stand on this occasion. You	
  
can	
  filter	
  flash	
  to	
  match	
  the	
  colour	
  of	
  the	
  current	
  light	
  sources.	
  Flash	
  tends	
  to	
  be	
  blue,	
  cheap	
  
flash	
  lights	
  have	
  more	
  green	
  Knts.
Strobist Flash




                 Alex Prager
Tutorial for Strobist Flash
http://www.youtube.com/user/CamCrunch?feature=watch
Video Light
Here you can
see a circular
L.E.D video light
on the Canon
Flash gun under
the flash.
Video Light
In addition to using various speedlights and flashguns. Video lighing is another technique
which can provide great effect. Using video light in a scenario where tungsten light is the
dominant source of light, helps in achieving a more natural look.  Video light is also a
continuous light source, making immediate changes to the lighting intuitive – what you see
is how it will appear. You need to judge each scenario to decide if to use On camera
bounce flash, Strobist or Video lighting.




 On	
  camera	
  bounce	
  flash	
               Off	
  camera	
  Video	
  Flash	
  
Video Light
Video Light
Video	
  light	
  allows	
  for	
  constant	
  adjustment	
  of	
  the	
  light.	
  
LED	
  is	
  usually	
  day	
  light	
  colour.	
  Its	
  whiter	
  than	
  regular	
  bulbs	
  which	
  tend	
  to	
  
have	
  the	
  orange	
  warm	
  tungsten	
  glow.	
  
Our task;
 Shoot 3 portraits
                                             Using;
                                 1. On Camera Bounce Flash
                                       2. Strobist Flash
                                       3. Video Lighting
 Your	
  images	
  should	
  be	
  perfectly	
  exposed.	
  Your	
  cameras	
  manual	
  seDngs/tech,	
  light	
  meter,	
  
 white	
  balance	
  and	
  histogram	
  should	
  be	
  consulted	
  when	
  shooKng.	
  Your	
  portraits	
  can	
  occur	
  
in	
  an	
  environment	
  of	
  your	
  choice	
  of	
  whoever	
  you	
  wish.	
  These	
  techniques	
  can	
  be	
  shot	
  in	
  day	
  
 or	
  night.	
  To	
  do	
  this	
  technique	
  correctly	
  your	
  images	
  should	
  contain	
  a	
  smooth	
  gradient	
  and	
  
                               combinaKon	
  and	
  interacKon	
  of	
  highlights	
  and	
  shadows.	
  	
  
Photographer
 inspiration
Patrick Hoelck
Patrick Hoelck
Alex Prager
Alex Prager
Alex Prager
Using Flash in digital photography
Zed Nelson
David Hill
Martin Usbourne
Bryan Adams
Michael Williams
Mat Szwajkos
Charlie Gray
Charlie Gray

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Using Flash in digital photography

  • 1. The use of Flash in Photography By Chris Timothy Image by Patrick Hoelck
  • 2. The use of Flash in Photography 1. Introduction – Purpose and considerations 2. On Camera Bounce Flash 3. Strobist Flash 4. Video Lighting
  • 3. Introduction- Purpose Using Flash is key to controlling and manipulating light when available light is not the appropriate for the shot you hope to capture. Flash gets given a bad name by photographers using inbuilt factory camera flash. You have no control over the direction of the that type of flash. It can only come from one angle and height and usually hits the subject square on. The visual effect looks flat and lacks dimension and interaction between highlights and shadows. As photographers we’re always looking for perfect light and yet, the quality of available light isn’t always ideal. But if you use flash wisely, you are able to enhance or over-ride the available light in a location you wish to shoot in. With careful and considered use of flash, you are more in control of light, and hence the way your photos will look – than if you just accept the ambient light. the existing ambient light.
  • 4. Introduction- Purpose Having the flash come from a different direction to that of the camera adds real depth and interaction of highlights and lows lights thus a nicer contrast. Flash can delete an unwanted light environment and add mood, emotion and connotations to your work. Here Patrick Hoelck’s Flash has added a nice gradient between the highlights and the shadows and also a natural vignette on the background. In addition to this it also acts as a key light to the secondary light, the window. It solves the problem of silhouetting. Flash can interact with as well as concur natural light.
  • 5. Directional Flash by Patrick Hoelck
  • 6. In built straight on Flash
  • 7. Introduction – Considerations –Camera Tech/Settings To use Flash to its potential you have to consider your camera settings to ensure you correctly expose. There is no specific equation to ensure you do this correctly. However you do need to analyse the lighting situation that you are in and consider what effect the flash will have on it and ensure you leave room for it in your settings. For example deliberately under exposing to leave room for the flash to enter the shot. Without flash With Flash 1/160 @ f3.2 @ 800 ISO 1/160  @  f3.2  @  800  ISO  with  flash  
  • 8. Considerations. Exposure. Using the Light Meter   In digital SLR photography it’s important to understand what the light meter is and what it does before discussing how to use the camera’s built-in meter to set and manipulate exposure and in this case use it to helps allow for flash. The built-in light meter found in your digital SLR camera measures the amount of light being reflected off objects through the lens and into the camera. This measurement is then used by the camera’s computer to determine what it believes to be the best exposure for the scene, with that exposure being the proper combination of shutter speed and aperture and ISO. Here is a DSLR in built, on screen light meter. It is measured in stops. The image of the light meter says your exposure settings are correct. A -1 = under exposed,+1 = over exposed.
  • 9. Using the Histogram   When we use Flash there is a danger we will wash out detail in anything which is already bright/reflective. For example a white dress or the sky. The screen on DSLR cameras are relatively small and it is difficult to check if a small areas has lost detail or is bleached out. You could use digital zoom on play mode to check. However this is time consuming. Another way to check is to use the histogram to analyse your exposure results.
  • 10. Using the Histogram   A Histogram covers the Dynamic Range of color/tone from black to mid tones to white. Dynamic range in photography describes the ratio between the maximum and minimum measurable light intensities.
  • 11. Using the Histogram   As long as the data in your graph finishes before the edge of the graph you are ok. If the data falls off the graph you have either over or under exposed.
  • 12. Using the Histogram   Under or over exposed? So, when shooting with flash always check you histogram graph to ensure your shot is not under or over exposed. If you don’t you will probably loose detail in the high lights or shadows.
  • 13. Using the Histogram   Correctly Exposed
  • 14. The Catch Light To learn how to use Flash it is always useful to analyse other peoples flash work. There is a really helpful clue to analysing where they have positioned or bounced their flash and it is called a Catch light. A catch light is a small white circle in the subjects eye which tells us where the flash was positioned in the shot.
  • 15. The Freeman – Light Portraits Dean Catch Celebrity
  • 16. On camera bounce flash Image by Tom Munro
  • 17. On camera bounce flash On camera bounce flash is a way of controlling your light. It turns being “on location” into a studio. The techniques requires the photographer to fire the flash at/on somewhere which reflects. You fire the flash where you would like a studio light positioned.   Window Subject Camera/Flash Firing the flash
  • 18. Blocking Direct Flash It  is  important  when  using  this  technique  you  block  any  flash  from  hiDng  your   subject  directly.  You  do  this  with  various  pieces  of  equipment  but  you  could  use  a   black  piece  of  foam  or  even  your  hand.  This  technique  allowed  the  photographer  to   bounce  the  flash  to  his  leJ  creaKng  soJer  light  than  a  direct  flash.  The  direcKon  of   the  flash  is  well  composed  as  the  subjects  take  on  a  higher  saturaKon  than  that  of   the  locaKon.  
  • 19. Here  the  Photographer  has  used  the  70-­‐200mm  lens,  a  f2.8  wide  open  aperture  and  then   simply  has  to  wait  for  the  right  expression.    He  is  posiKoned  so  that  there  are  defocused   highlights  in  the  background  to  help  create  separaKon.    The  flash  is  bounced  off  to  the  right   into  the  large  recepKon  room.  Result-­‐  slight  contrast,  well  lit  shot.  
  • 20. Still life and T.T.L camera settings:  1/80 @ f4 @ 1600 ISO; TTL bounce flash. The Flash is shot to the left, reflects back and makes a nice combination of tones, again nice interaction between the highlights and shadows. All the same is not aesthetically pleasing. What is TTL? TTL is a AUTO for flash, it stands for through the lens. It looks through the lens and judges the light that is entering the camera and powers the flash levels accordingly.
  • 21. Considerations – White Balance White Balance is a difficulty when using on camera bounce Flash. This differs from using a Strobist Flash. Your white balance really depends on if the flash fires at the subject directly, then you could set your shite balance to flash, or if you bounce your flash off a wall, texture, roof, it will bring some of the hue/colour tone from that service so your white balance may need to change to match it. The images below show the orange tones that reflect from the location. Shooting on RAW will enable you to change the white balance after you have shot to correct, or you can more complexly cool the image in Photoshop or Lightroom to help gain the desired tones. Daylight  white  balance  
  • 22. Strobist Flash Image by Tom Munro
  • 24. Strobist Flash Strobist means off camera flash. This method of flash photography allows you to position the flash where you would like it as it is totally free of your camera. A photographer usually uses a stand or assistant. Your flash acts as your studio light. In this technique you need to sync a flash gun/speed light with your camera. This then enables your flash to go off at the exact moment your camera takes a picture. There are some advantages and disadvantages of shooting Strobist rather than On camera bounce flash. For example the light will be much harsher in strobist because all the flash hits your subject. It is not diffused like bounce flash so therefore is hard more direct light rather than soft. This results in a high contrast image.  
  • 25. Strobist Flash using T.T.L To conduct this technique expose your shot pre flash, one stop under to allow for when the flash enters the shot. The camera light meter will help you in this. 1/200 @F/2.5 @ 200 ISO 1/200 @F/2.5 @ 200 ISO with TTL flash Position your subject and flash to gain the desired shadows. Here a soft box is used to diffuse the light. The light is being held with a Monopod rather than a stand on this occasion. You   can  filter  flash  to  match  the  colour  of  the  current  light  sources.  Flash  tends  to  be  blue,  cheap   flash  lights  have  more  green  Knts.
  • 26. Strobist Flash Alex Prager
  • 27. Tutorial for Strobist Flash http://www.youtube.com/user/CamCrunch?feature=watch
  • 28. Video Light Here you can see a circular L.E.D video light on the Canon Flash gun under the flash.
  • 29. Video Light In addition to using various speedlights and flashguns. Video lighing is another technique which can provide great effect. Using video light in a scenario where tungsten light is the dominant source of light, helps in achieving a more natural look.  Video light is also a continuous light source, making immediate changes to the lighting intuitive – what you see is how it will appear. You need to judge each scenario to decide if to use On camera bounce flash, Strobist or Video lighting. On  camera  bounce  flash   Off  camera  Video  Flash  
  • 31. Video Light Video  light  allows  for  constant  adjustment  of  the  light.   LED  is  usually  day  light  colour.  Its  whiter  than  regular  bulbs  which  tend  to   have  the  orange  warm  tungsten  glow.  
  • 32. Our task; Shoot 3 portraits Using; 1. On Camera Bounce Flash 2. Strobist Flash 3. Video Lighting Your  images  should  be  perfectly  exposed.  Your  cameras  manual  seDngs/tech,  light  meter,   white  balance  and  histogram  should  be  consulted  when  shooKng.  Your  portraits  can  occur   in  an  environment  of  your  choice  of  whoever  you  wish.  These  techniques  can  be  shot  in  day   or  night.  To  do  this  technique  correctly  your  images  should  contain  a  smooth  gradient  and   combinaKon  and  interacKon  of  highlights  and  shadows.