Wfn 41 nov 2012 22.11.2012

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes
Fragrant People
Perfumers & Co wfn # 41 nov 12
■ Marie Salamagne (Firmenich)
I like working on raw material that has a history like patchouli, to dress it and enhance it.
After her studies at ISIPCA, Marie started at Charabot where she studied formulation. She then joined
Firmenich NYC for bodycare and then, since 2005, worked for the fine fragrances team in Paris. More
attracted by masculine notes such as amber and woods, she created feminine Yves Rocher’s So Elixir
Purple, Roger & Gallet’s Rose Imaginaire Maison Martin Margiela’s Replica, Giorgio Armani’s Privé
Marie Salamagne
La Femme Nacre, before Guerlain’s Aquas, Westwood’s Let it Rock, Poiray’s Sceau des Cœurs... Photo Credit
Kenzo, Oriflame... A very promising perfumer to follow up. Blaise Lavigne

■ Marie Duchêne (MD Fragrances)
Marie creates perfumery with pleasure, music and enthusiasm. After her studies and training in Grasse,
Marie Duchêne founded her own company 10 years ago, MD Fragrances, located in Mougins, France.
She develops, formulates and monitors everything (legislation), selecting the best quality of ingredients.
Marie works for cosmetics (100% natural), fine fragrances projects and home care (particularly candles).
She recently signed for Laboratorio Olfattivo (Rosumda), Molinard (Patchouli Intense, Chypre, Cologne Marie
Intense), Nobile 1942 and Melody Gardot’s candle with Calming Park. Duchêne

■ Dorothée Piot (Robertet Paris)
Life is made of encounters....
... As with Roger & Gallet, L’Occitane en Provence, Salvador Dali,
or Amouage, for whom Dorothée has signed many fragrances
during her career. Hot news this fall: she composed Jovoy’s Les
Jeux sont faits (opulent leathery tobacco-patchouli, masculine Dorothée
scent) in the ambience of card tables, casinos, smoke and french Piot
‘serie noire’ movies...Dorothée also composed the first ‘J’ai fait
un rêve’ pour elle (Sculptures Olfactives, a new brand founded by
Majda Bekkali). She has also signed recently Olfactive Studio’s
Chambre Noire and very new Jul&Mad’s trio collection (shown)...
Artistic perfumery in a fever of excitement!

■ Osmoz, share your fragrances – the new fragrance social media by Firmenich
Firmenich’s website Osmoz, created in 2001, became a reference and a source of deep info for pros and passionate
people, in the major fields of fragrances (products, culture, market trends).
Eleven years later, the website needed to be modernized and adapted to new
digital consumption trends and expectations. The goal of revamping was to
target 18-35 year old consumers, get involved in the fragrance community and
to understand their advice and opinion about perfumes. Osmoz’s database
now contains over 5,000 products. A golden platform of data to enlarge !

Julie Deleaval, expert in the web industry, is
Manager Osmoz. She managed the project
from A to Z considering the process as a
rebirth of Osmoz. The project was indeed
strategic: she and the team had to take all the
digital requirements in account: mobile,
tablet, 4 languages, available in 6 countries
with new topics and an ‘Osmoz box’ (gifts,
samples, miniatures)...
Julie Deleaval

It took 7 months creating a fresh tool, a real social media, broken away from
the past, allowing consumers to explore, share and discuss. The editorial
team has also evolved with various contributors (such as the talented Sophie
Normand’s My Blue Hour blog) to appeal and re-enchant the world of
perfume. A good new deal ! Congrats! For more info: www.osmoz.com

1

Fragrant Brands
Sagas & Creativity wfn # 41 nov 12
■ Annick Goutal (Amore Pacific)
‘’On ne doit jamais oublier que la finalité du parfum est le bonheur.’’ Annick Goutal
Established in 1980 by Annick Goutal, this elegant French brand is owned now by South
Korean group, Amore Pacific (with Lolita Lempicka), retailed in 20 countries. Fragrances
are still created in-house by Camille Goutal and her accomplice, Isabelle Doyen, former
assistant to Annick, who has trained Camille. A fragrant tribute...The perfumer duo
together works from their own laboratory on all their blends.They share their ideas
(concept, materials) with the marketing without imposing theirs. Goutal’s olfactory
Camille Goutal & Isabelle Doyen universe could be described as poetic, innocent, romantic, feminine... It is above all
harmony, soul, character, memories, highly focused on quality and originality
(materials).
The wide collection of perfumes, candles, home sprays and cosmetics
includes Folavril (the first one created), citrus chypre Eau du Sud, Eau
d’Hadrien, fruity pear with famous Petite Chérie, floral with Grand Amour, Ce
Soir ou Jamais, Tubéreuse, Heure Exquise, Eau de Camille, Néroli, Violette
...chypre with Mon Parfum Chéri, Mandragore Pourpre or Sables... The latest
launch was Nuit Etoilée, an aromatic woody fresh fragrance. All fragrances’s Petite
Chérie
bottles are recognizable (round or squared) with their tiny details (label, 2012
ribbon and butterfly imaging). The brand is available in boutiques, limited
department stores and e-shop. For more info: www.annickgoutal.com edition

■ Pro Fvmvm Roma > 25 years of creation in family
I fratelli Durante di Sant’Elena Sannita, Italia. Italian brand Pro Fvmvm came to France in
2011. Brothers Giuseppe, Luciano, Maria and Felice Durante founded the brand, 25
years ago, with the philosophy of freedom, conviction and no compromise. What
characterizes most the brand? Luxury, simplicity, quality and high concentration (43%),
emotions, large bottle, originality... An invitation to travel.
Among the best-sellers, the majestuous Battito D’Ali, Fiori
d’Ambra, Neroli, Acqva di Sale, Vanitas, Confetto, Oxiana, Thvndra
and so many others which are available in candles and bath line.
Dolce Acqva (milky, almond, vanilla, fruity) and Eccelso (leather)
are the two up and coming fragrances this month. The brand is
available in Paris at La Belle Parfumerie (Printemps Haussmann)
and other stores, in Europe, USA (Osswald NY store), ... and Italy. The Durante Family
For more info: profumum.com and the collection

■ Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (Parfum d’Empire)
Expert in raw materials and chemicals... PHD and perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
(Corsican born in Morocco) knows every single heart of a perfumery ingredient. He signed 2
new additions this year : one for his own brand, Musc Tonkin (Limited Edition, extract version)
Parfum d’Empire, designed as a musky animalic fragrance created around tonkin musk and
rich materials. It smells sex(y), woman and fur. The second is for D.Frapin & Co, Speakeasy. A
tribute to smoky bars, mojito, leather, evoking the US prohibition of the 30’s. Rich. Opulent.
Forbidden... For more info:parfumdempire.com and www.differenteslatitudes.com
Marc Antoine Corticchiato

■ Thierry Faucon > Design
Thierry Faucon has been Director and Designer at Lorience (LuluCastagnette, Mauboussin and
Courrèges) since 2005. After his studies of architecture at Les Beaux Arts in Orléans and Ecole
des Arts Modernes in Paris, he made a decisive encounter and joined one of the most famous
Design workshop for perfumes at that time, where he worked for 15 years and improved his
talent and knowledge in the field. Thierry ran his own agency for 10 years and then joined
Lorience with Robin Schlang. Since then, he has created many fragrances bottles and the recent
French jewellery brand Mauboussin Pour Elle and Mauboussin Pour Lui.
For more info: www.lorience.com
2

Fragrant Events
SFP Cinquieme Sens & Marionnaud
, wfn # 41 nov 12
■ Société Française des Parfumeurs > 70 years !
September, the 27th. For its 70th anniversary, the SFP organized a party in the sumptuous
Parisian Hôtel Potocki attended by more than 400 people of the industry (perfumers,
press, marketers...). The gala, punctuated by 3 major events, was a tribute to perfumery
and its art:
- the introduction of the ‘Rose des Parfumeurs’ to promote the rose and knowledge of the
roses among people who love the flower;
- the creation of the ‘International circle of perfumers-creators’ to promote the art of
fragrances, based on the original idea of senior perfumers Maurice Maurin and Raymond Virginie Armand perfumer
Chaillan; at Argeville, won the Prize
- the celebration of the ‘International perfumer-creator award 2012’.This year, the theme with a floral fruity musky
composition based on a
of the show was ‘’Le Parfum, c’est la fête!’’. Perfumer Dominique Ropion, president of the
rum cocktail.
artistic jury awarded Virginie Armand, perfumer at Argeville.

The SFP has marked a vitalizing step in modernizing and communicating thanks to
Patrick Saint-Yves’s presidency. And to symbolize the revamping of the old institution,
a new logo has been adopted and a fresh website will be available this month.
For more info: www.parfumeur-createur.com

■ Cinquième Sens > New program
J’Adore, Euphoria, Lady Million, O Hui, Coco Mademoiselle, Pleasures ... You know all those best-sellers but are you able
to rank them in the world, by country? Not easy...!
French company Cinquième Sens (created in 1976 by Monique Schlienger, managed by Isabelle Ferrand in Paris) has run
a new program this fall: a global feminine fragrance market overview, based on top sellers 2011 sourced by NPD &
Euromonitor data.
The session is focused on an in depth presentation to look at which are the best fragrances
purchased in each key region of the world (US, Europe, Asia Pacific, South America). The
master class starts with an overview about the region and its main countries, consumption,
habits and uses, olfactory culture ... Data sources are also given by Ubi France. The overall
session is punctuated by fun smelling tests where attendees try to recognize the main
products of the market, the raw materials,... In blind. The workshop is as relaxed as it is
The olfactorium© informative.
This session, conceived as a tool, allows marketers to know and understand why
major brands are present, why they are so strong (image/business) and see also
how local brands emerge in this industry where majors compete together. At the
end, it provides the belief that fragrance markets are still driven by money,
brand image and money-power of majors (media invests, celebrities, retail,
historical presence, fashion and trends... ). It shows as well that some countries
(and especially the BRICs) don’t always follow mega trends (classics vs novelties)
and can impose their own local preferences and differentiate from the global
olfactory correct market. Cinquième Sens is now present in USA and Brazil.
Argentina Top Sellers 2011
Rose des Vents©
The interest for marketers is to better understand market evolution and know This compass rose gives the olfactory
family of the market at a glance. The
how to adapt their brand offer. Training session about male fragrances will
floral green fruity family dominates the
follow soon... For more info: www.cinquiemesens.com feminine market.

■ Bernard Marionnaud’s book > Un homme au parfum
His parents were fairground people, WW II stopped his schooling,... Bernard Marionnaud hadn’t the best
skills to start in the little world of luxury. Marionnaud’s biography is a true novel made up of joy, dreams,
politics and history in De Gaulle’s France. A self-made man, who began small in beauty, his name is
today renowned worldwide attached to one of the most important international group of
perfumeries.The book, written with Sylvie Nordheim, will be available on the 22th of November
(Cherche-Midi). Press contact : Valérie Roy, vroy@cherche-midi.com.

3

Fragrant Launches
Voices, Men & Luxury wfn # 41 nov 12
■ K by Patricia Kaas > On stage!
News from TFWA in Cannes ! K is first French singer and actress Patricia Kaas’s fragrance. A project run
by Fragrance & Emotion for the last 2 years, with the perfumer Mélanie Leroux, Mademoiselle
Parfumette and designer Silvia Hofbeck who created the bottle. Patricia Kaas, known for her talent, her
powerful glamour voice combined to her fragile silhouette signed a perfume of character. Only a fruity
floral chypre with best ingredients could suit her sensuous yet strong personality. The fragrance is
composed of fruity notes, ylang-ylang, jasmine, lily and orange blossom sustained by agarwood and
woody notes. For chypre addicted people. Available in exclusivity on www.fragranceetemotion.com by
1st of December and then, soon, worldwide and France in the selective channel. Kaas’s scent tour will
really start in 2013 as well as her Piaf’s one !
■ Pink Friday by Nicki Minaj (Elizabeth Arden) > Sassy!
After Justin Bieber and its successful Someday (ranking N°7 in the USA), the Barbz’fragrance ! American
rapper Nicki Minaj, known for her pink hair and eccentric style, debuts fragrance with Elizabeth Arden
(True Religion, Ed Hardy, BCBGMAXAZRIA, Britney Spears, Elizabeth Taylor, Juicy Couture, Usher, John Varvatos,
Curve...). Pink Friday is composed by Firmenich as a fruity floral musky scent. Candy, sweet, girly, in a
barbz bottle in a shape of a woman (the singer herself) developed by glass maker Pochet ... all
ingredients of a celeb’fragrance. The fragrance will be available in department stores.

■ Delarom > First fragrances
Christine Benet, passionate about aromatherapy, founded Delarom in 2008. All
products are made from natural and pure vegetal oils. This dynamic French natural
skincare and bodycare brand based on aromachology and aromas’ benefits has
launched its first fragrances created by Mane : Homme Eau Sport signed by Violaine
Collas and Fleur du Sud (a floriental with white flowers and woods) composed by
Cécile Ripert. Available in November, in pharmacies and e-shop. For more info:
www.delarom.fr
■ Boss ORANGE Man by Hugo Boss (P&G) > Cool
Spontaneous and casual like the fashion franchise. After BOSS ORANGE Woman, here
is the new BOSS ORANGE Man. Young international actor Orlando Bloom embodies
the new brand fragrance. A fresh fruity apple, woody but sensuous fragrance with
vanilla and bubinga wood to reflect the free style of Boss’s urban fashion. The bottle,
designed by Eyan Allen, is the masculine version of the female’s one: same structure
of glass crystal, like a muscular chest. For more info:hugoboss.com

■ Fragrant Web > Blog for Men
The new men are in the city ! A trendy blog, created by a modern man, only for
men. Skincare, fragrances, grooming products are a matter of seduction, efficiency
but also humor, health, well-being and advices. Cédric Chamoulaud, beauty PR
specialist (at the BMRP agency, he works for P&G, Wella, Christophe Biot, Bio
Secure accounts) is the author of www.thenewmeninthecity.com and gives all
beauty tips a man needs.

■ Stéphane Lacroix, founder of S.Lacroix licensing > Development of licences
After his studies at HEC, Stéphane joined Unilever to successfully re-launch Snuggle
in Europe. Attracted by new challenges, then he moved to L’Oréal consumer
division, where he set up 2 sales subsidiaries in Kuala-Lumpur and Singapore and
launched mass-market products as well as technical products targeted at
professional hairdressers. At fashion magazine Elle, he managed 250 contracts in
the world (ready-to-wear, shoes and bags, watches). After a few years at Le
Jacquard Français and Lancel, in the international business, he founded his own
agency S.LACROIX licensing and now brings his practical expertise to help
companies in the Luxury, Fashion and Beauty sectors. His news : a book, co-written Luxury & Brand Licensing
with Emilie Bénéteau, launched in Sept 2012 (Eyrolles edition / Collection How to enhance the image and
increase the financial returns of
Marketing): “Luxe et Licences de marque”. For more info and contact:
a luxury brand
www.slacroix-licensing.com
4

Wfn 41 nov 2012 22.11.2012

More Related Content

Similar to Wfn 41 nov 2012 22.11.2012 (20)

Wfn 41 nov 2012 22.11.2012