2013 lucia spring release newsletter: Soberanes Vineyard
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The Pisoni family's commitment to their vineyards is illustrated through the Lucia labels, which feature Soberanes Vineyard, showcasing over a century of farming wisdom in wine production. The document highlights the unique characteristics of the vineyard's soil and climate, essential for cultivating exceptional Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah, and the meticulous efforts put into maintaining a diverse ecosystem and maximizing grape quality. Additionally, the release strategy for their wines will now focus on vineyard-specific offerings, reflecting their dedication to their land and heritage.
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2013 lucia spring release newsletter: Soberanes Vineyard
- 1. the pisoni family treasures tradi- tion, while welcoming opportunities to build upon and sustain values close to the heart. The new Lucia labels honor our long-term commitment and love of the land by featuring illustrations of the vineyards from which the fruit was sourced. soberanes vineyard—and the vines that produced its 2011 lucia pinot noir, chardonnay and syrah— may be young, but Pisoni farming wisdom stretches back more than a century.
- 2. Almost 250 years ago, José María Soberanes marched from Mexico to Monterey Bay with the famed Portolá expedition. He camped on a barren brown plain, battered by winds and dust storms, at the foot of the brooding Sierra de Santa Lucía. The explor- ers called this place El Campo Real del Chocolate or Chocolate Camp. Most likely, the 16-year-old never dreamed that one day he would have a son who would acquire this land of dark, rocky soil as repayment for 40 horses, 50 head of cattle, 4 oxen and some sheep. Or that a vineyard planted there centuries later would bear his name. soberanes vineyard tie a pinot ribbon round the ole oak tree Two farmers make their daily drive down a country road. While checking one of their fields, they look at the adjacent cow pasture and get an idea. Sounds like the beginning of a bad joke, doesn’t it? But the late Eddie Pisoni and his grandson Mark knew exactly what to do with that cow pasture: plant Pinot Noir. It wasn’t just any cow pasture, but a perfectly sited one right next to Garys’ Vineyard, famed for growing the finicky grape. Sitting on the Santa Lucia Highlands bench about nine miles north of Pisoni Vineyards and a stone’s throw from Garys’ Vineyard, the site had so much potential. Blanketed by fog every morning and at about 400 feet in elevation, the grazing land experienced con- ditions that contribute to the slow, even ripening of grapes. And because the pasture was next to the Garys’ Vineyard, a joint venture between Gary Pisoni and Gary Franscioni, farming another 40 acres should be relatively easy. Easy except for the 20 or so coast live oaks on the property. After the Pisoni and Franscioni families negotiated with the Bianchis, the descendents of José María Soberanes, they ripped the ground with the old tractor that Eddie bought in 1952 when he founded Pisoni Farms—carefully skirting the stately oaks. “I absolutely love all the oak trees at our Soberanes Vineyard,” says viticulturist Mark Pisoni (above with father Gary). “They are beautiful, and I knew our vines would coexist and create a more diverse ecosystem.” Similar to practices in Burgundy, Mark tightened the spacing between the Pinot Noir cuttings to provide more plants per acre. As a result, the plants don’t grow as large and produce fewer clusters, which enhances the flavor of the grapes. The fruit of the 2011 Lucia Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir came of age next to California oaks long before the wine aged in French oak barrels. ■
- 3. “I’m not sure I can do that,” mused Jim Mullinary from his small Caterpillar tractor. He looked at the knoll on the Soberanes Vineyard, where he was to cut the 8-foot wide terraces that would become the multi-tiered home of the Syrah vines. Gary Pisoni’s voice boomed back, “Complete the job, and I’ll give you a case of wine from this block for life!” Slowly and cautiously, the Caterpillar curved along the hillside. By nightfall, the 2.75- acre job was finished. The Syrah block benefits from the knowledge gained from planting the Pisoni and Garys’ vineyards—some 25 individual blocks spanning 95 acres. New budwood, heri- tage clonal material, was sourced from a premier California Syrah site. Running due north and south, the row direction of all the vines at the Soberanes Vineyard provides for the most uniform sun exposure. The incline of the terraced slopes also allows for more direct sunlight on the vines. Mark discusses the challenges of growing the variety in Wines and Vines magazine. The third-generation farmer notes, “One big challenge with Syrah is ensuring it ripens. Oftentimes our region is really on the fringe of being able to ripen this variety. Our Syrah is typically harvested the last week in October or first week in November. We invest a great deal of effort to help it along.” The once-popular song, “Que Sera, Sera (Whatever Will Be, Will Be),” may not be grammatically correct in Spanish or any language, but the sentiment seems appropriate for Salinas Valley growers. Always grappling with unpredictable conditions, they know uncertainty. The future’s not theirs to see. But the combined farming experience of the Pisoni and Franscioni families offers the Syrah vines, clinging to the hillside terraces of the Soberanes Vineyard, the best future possible. And Gary Pisoni will happily keep his promise. ■ Ask Alberto Patino and Raul Raya what type of soil the Chardonnay vines at the Soberanes Vineyard are planted in, and they will quickly reply pura piedras or “all rock.” Only a handful of the strongest members of the vineyard team could pound the metal grape stakes into the earth. Often a stake would bend before even piercing the granite- laden ground, and a second or third steel post would be needed to get the job done. Stake by stake, plant by plant, for months Alberto, Raul and a few others worked to plant the eight acres of Chardonnay at the Soberanes Vineyard. Layers of igne- ous rocks made that plot of ground the most difficult the vineyard team had ever planted. But all those rocks were exactly what winemaker Jeff Pisoni (right) wanted for his Chardonnay. “Our 2011 Lucia Soberanes Chardonnay is very exciting and a direct reflection of what I see when I look at the soil in the vineyard,” Jeff enthuses. “The aromatics leap out of the glass, and the minerality and bright acidity are in perfect balance.” A recent issue of Wine Business Monthly features Jeff as one of the “distinguished winemakers from distinctive regions” that produce premium Chardonnay. The eight other notable winemakers participated in a blind tasting of Lucia Chardonnay, using descriptors such as “a nice mineral character” (Gianni Abate of Morgan), “well balanced, round and well structured” (Lee Hudson of Hudson Vineyards) and “layered and com- plex” (James Hall of Patz & Hall). The comments suggest that Chardonnay sourced from Soberanes Vineyard starts with very well-grounded vines. ■ chards of rock que syrah syrah Photo credit: Rachel Balunsat
- 4. soberanes vineyard selections 2011 lucia soberanes vineyard chardonnay The green/gold-hued Lucia Soberanes Chardonnay has a laser-like focus of mineral and citrus driven notes. The aromatics entice the taster to swirl and watch the beautiful perfume unfold. Undertones in the bouquet consist of almond skin, crème brûlée and orange blossom. The palate is extra-long and layered, flowing together into a seamless and drawn-out finish with refreshing acid structure. Drink now or age for a decade. 2011 lucia soberanes vineyard pinot noir The remarkably pure and focused notes are like a beam of boysenberries and spring flowers that leap out to the taster. This Pinot Noir embodies the emerging hallmark of the Soberanes Vineyard wines: simultaneous- ly rich but delicate and perfumed aromatics. The palate is broad with supple tannins but still light on its feet with some hints of Bing cherry, almond skin and mineral notes. The finish is long and shows bright acid- ity. Drink now through 2020. 2011 lucia soberanes vineyard syrah The dark purple-hued Syrah emits a beautiful bouquet of spring flowers. This Syrah is very expressive and complex with subsequent aromatics of baking spice, Earl Grey tea, boysenberry and then more and more violets. On the palate the wine is full-bodied with endless layers of fine- grained tannins giving the most velvety and elegant finish. Will easily age for a decade. santa lucia highlands cuvées 2011 lucia chardonnay The Lucia “Santa Lucia Highlands” cuvée is bright yellow-gold in color. The aromatics are expressive and focus around lemon zest, brioche, floral notes and vibrant citrus. Full-bodied, the palate has a supple texture with highlights of white peach and fresh pineapple that lead into a crisp finish. Drink now through 2017. 2011 lucia pinot noir Exuberant and bright, the Lucia “Santa Lucia Highlands” cuvée of Pinot Noir is loaded with red fruits: cherry, ripe pomegranate, wild raspber- ry and slight baking spice and forest floor. The palate is expansive and rich without being heavy. Gentle tannins act as framework, as the wine stretches out into a fine finish. The 2011 reds display a sense of bright fruits leaning more to the red side and full-bodied textures without be- ing heavy. rosé 2012 lucy rosé of pinot noir Light strawberry in color, the Lucy 2012 starts off with an inviting sum- mer feeling of near-ripe watermelon, wild strawberry, peach and floral notes. The palate is full and flavorful with a lively and dry finish. Serve chilled with a variety of dishes or as an aperitif. Although the wine will age, drink within one to two years for maximum freshness and vibrancy. Lucia Vineyards & Winery P.O. Box 908 Gonzales, CA 93926 ph: 800.946.3130 fax: 831.675.2557 www.luciavineyards.com Spring 2013 Writer: Susan Pisoni Tavernetti Design: Erin Randolph Photography: Richard Green and the Pisoni Family release schedule We are changing the way that we release our Pisoni and Lucia wines to emphasize our dedication and long-term commitment to each of our three Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards. Beginning with this newsletter, our wines will be offered according to the vine- yard from which the grapes are sourced: • Spring: Soberanes Vineyard wines and Lucia “Santa Lucia Highlands” cuvées • Summer: Garys’ Vineyard wines • Fall: Pisoni Vineyards wines