The Oceans, Coastal Processes and Landforms
Overview Oceans Coastal Systems Components Actions Outputs Biotic Components
Oceans Chemical composition Water Salts:  dissolved ionic compounds Cl - , Na + , Mg 2+ , SO 4 2- , Ca 2+ , K + , Br - Salinity (parts per hundred) Average:  3.5%  Brine:  >3.5% Areas with high rates of evaporation Brackish:  <3.5% Areas at the mouths of rivers; estuaries Atmospheric gases N 2 , CO 2 , O 2 Physical structure
 
 
Coastal System Components Solar Energy Atmospheric winds Create ocean  waves Climatic regimes Gravitational Energy Tides   Characteristics of coastal rock Human activities Terminology Littoral zone Shoreline  Coast
 
Coastal System Actions Erosion, transport and deposition occur through the action of tides and breaking waves Tides Gravity:  Moon and Sun Tidal power Spring tides, neap tides Lunar Phases Tide Predictor
Lunar Phases Tide Predictor
Lunar Phases Tide Predictor
Lunar Phases Tide Predictor
Lunar Phases Tide Predictor
Waves Solar > Wind > Water Each wave crest is a pulse of energy performs the erosive work
Wave refraction and coastal straightening erosive
Longshore current and beach drift erosion, transportation, and deposition
 
Coastal System Outputs Erosional processes and landforms Rugged, high relief, tectonically active wave cut platform Transport:  longshore currents, beachdrift Depositional processes and landforms Land with gentle relief, providing sediments beaches barrier spit bay barrier tombolo barrier islands – often supports vegetation
Erosional Landforms
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Depositional Landforms
 
 
 
 
Biological Processes Coral reefs Coral polyps Secrete CaCO 3 Symbiotic with algae Specific ecological niche – sensitive to changes 10 – 55 meters depth 2.7 – 4.0 % salinity 18 o  – 29 o  C water temperature clear, sediment free water sea-level rise and warming of ocean waters threatens coral reefs If global trends were to stop immediately, it is estimated that 50% of the world’s coral reefs will die
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Coastal Wetlands Salt marshes:  Poleward (N or S) of 30 o  latitude Often form in intertidal zone Often occur on barrier islands Mangrove swamps:  Between 30 o  N and S latitude Grow on sediment accumulation Serve to shelter young fish, important for conservation Vegetation hydrophytic halophytic Estimated 40-80% loss over the last 10,000 years
 
 
 
 
 
 
Issues Oceans poorly understood Humans are still hunter-gatherers on the oceans We use the oceans as our universal dump Shoreline development Development occurs on these constantly shifting landscapes Climate change Rising seal levels Rising ocean temperature
 

Coastal

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    The Oceans, CoastalProcesses and Landforms
  • 2.
    Overview Oceans CoastalSystems Components Actions Outputs Biotic Components
  • 3.
    Oceans Chemical compositionWater Salts: dissolved ionic compounds Cl - , Na + , Mg 2+ , SO 4 2- , Ca 2+ , K + , Br - Salinity (parts per hundred) Average: 3.5% Brine: >3.5% Areas with high rates of evaporation Brackish: <3.5% Areas at the mouths of rivers; estuaries Atmospheric gases N 2 , CO 2 , O 2 Physical structure
  • 4.
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    Coastal System ComponentsSolar Energy Atmospheric winds Create ocean waves Climatic regimes Gravitational Energy Tides Characteristics of coastal rock Human activities Terminology Littoral zone Shoreline Coast
  • 7.
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    Coastal System ActionsErosion, transport and deposition occur through the action of tides and breaking waves Tides Gravity: Moon and Sun Tidal power Spring tides, neap tides Lunar Phases Tide Predictor
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    Waves Solar >Wind > Water Each wave crest is a pulse of energy performs the erosive work
  • 14.
    Wave refraction andcoastal straightening erosive
  • 15.
    Longshore current andbeach drift erosion, transportation, and deposition
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  • 17.
    Coastal System OutputsErosional processes and landforms Rugged, high relief, tectonically active wave cut platform Transport: longshore currents, beachdrift Depositional processes and landforms Land with gentle relief, providing sediments beaches barrier spit bay barrier tombolo barrier islands – often supports vegetation
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    Biological Processes Coralreefs Coral polyps Secrete CaCO 3 Symbiotic with algae Specific ecological niche – sensitive to changes 10 – 55 meters depth 2.7 – 4.0 % salinity 18 o – 29 o C water temperature clear, sediment free water sea-level rise and warming of ocean waters threatens coral reefs If global trends were to stop immediately, it is estimated that 50% of the world’s coral reefs will die
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    Coastal Wetlands Saltmarshes: Poleward (N or S) of 30 o latitude Often form in intertidal zone Often occur on barrier islands Mangrove swamps: Between 30 o N and S latitude Grow on sediment accumulation Serve to shelter young fish, important for conservation Vegetation hydrophytic halophytic Estimated 40-80% loss over the last 10,000 years
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    Issues Oceans poorlyunderstood Humans are still hunter-gatherers on the oceans We use the oceans as our universal dump Shoreline development Development occurs on these constantly shifting landscapes Climate change Rising seal levels Rising ocean temperature
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